Bonus: Tagliarini with Luca Guadagnino

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0:48That's why over 200 ,000 happy customers have made the switch. Upgrade your space today. Visit washablesofas.com now and bring home a sofa made for life. That's washablesofas.com. Offers are subject to change, and certain restrictions may apply. You are listening to Ruthie's Table 4 in partnership with Montclair. Do you have all your pasta very al dente and cookies? Yes. I found this amazing pasta called Mancini, which is from Puglia. I'm friends with a few great chefs, one in particular, Nico Romito. I don't know if you know Nico. Nico, he creates all the menus for the Bulgarian hotel in the world, but also he has his own restaurant, which is Three Star Michelin in Abruzzo.

1:31And we know each other since ever, like 20 years now. And he gave me this to get pasta mancini. It's so good. Is it in a blue packet? No, white and orange. Look it up. I'll send you some. Very good. So going back to the recipe. Taglierin. Yeah, tell us, talk about it. Well, I mean, there is this famous recipe of tagliarin that this woman chef in Piemonte made 30 or 40 years ago by using one kilo of white flour and 40 yolks. Yeah. And I tried once. How was it? And I thought it was a disaster. And in fact, it was amazing. Yeah. Because it gets very dry, almost crumbly. You don't have a soft dough.

2:15You have a very dry dough. Interesting. And then when you pass the dough through the... Do you use the machine or do you roll it down? No, no. In this case, you need the machine because the machine helps the pasta to become one. The pasta was amazing. Amazing. Well, when we do it with truffles, we put, you know, if we do tagline with tartuffe, and brown butter, right? Then we use a lot more eggs. Yeah. But if we do it with tomato or with... You want it less eggy. Then less eggy. Yeah, I think so. How many kilos of pasta do you do every week? Oh, my God, a lot, yeah. Every night we sell probably 60 portions of pasta, I think 50, a lot.

2:59You know, everybody says, oh, I don't eat carbs, I don't eat gluten, and they all order pasta. Everyone does, right? All the time, and it's evolved. So we make, if you're cooking in the restaurant, it's easier to have fresh pasta because, you know, to the sauce. A hard pasta takes a bit longer, but I always love a hard pasta as well. So we often do three fresh pastas and one hard, or we do a risotto and two pastas and a gnocchi. How are the habits of the clients changed throughout time? That's an interesting question. I think when we first opened the River Cafe in 87, we served Papa Pomodoro, right?

3:38Because my husband was from Tuscany, we cooked in Tuscany, and we wanted to make the kind of food that you ate, not in restaurants in Italy, but in homes. And people said, I am not paying, at that time, like eight pounds, six pounds for a bit of bread and some tomatoes and, you know, basil. And you'll think this is surprising, but there was a man here called Freddie Laker. And what he did is he operated cheap airlines, like you could buy a ticket to Rome for ten pounds, remember? So what it meant, I think, is that a lot of British people traveled to the source. They went to Italy, they went to Rome, they went to Puglia.

4:15And I think it kind of changed the way people looked at food. They could understand them. Maybe more. And I think people now are so curious. You know, we have an open kitchen. People come up to the pass and say, how did you make that? You know, what's in that? And they ask questions. Do you like to divulge? Always. You do, right? Always. That's why we did 13 books, you know, that we've done. 13 books are incredible. Because why not, you know? Would you ever write a book? I don't know. A food book? Yeah. I don't know. I mean, on the one hand, I would say, yeah, it would be amazing. On the other hand, I like to do things that I know how to do them.

4:53And, you know, like I love food and I love to cook, but it's more like personal than something that I could have an authority about. Maybe I could do a book about the art of the table. That I can do. That I can do anywhere. What do you mean by art of the table? The art of the table means how you set up a table. The many fashions in which you can create a table setting for a meal, whether it's a two-people meal or a large, important dinner. Describe one for me. If I came to dinner, what would the table setting look like? Well, if you came to dinner to my house in Piemonte right now, I think we would, and if it was a sunny day, we would eat outside on a simple garden, iron table and chairs, and we would have probably a pasta with tomato on a ceramics.

5:45I have a blue ceramic set that I bought from a beautiful artisan in Wales. I will use that for you. Okay. Red and blue. Like your eyes. That's nice. It's interesting that you say tomato pasta because I always tell the story that we were in Verona and we met someone from Allegrene, the wine, And she said that when she was growing up, that she'd never, until she was 16, growing up in Verona, had never had a pasta with tomato. Because that's part of Italy. Because she went down to Naples and she came back from Naples for the summer and they called her piccolo pomodoro or whatever because she'd experienced.

6:23And I love that about Italy is the regional. Italy is so elongated and so fractured that you don't have what could be considered Italian food. Even now? Absolutely. I think you have many, a myriad, you say myriad? Myriad. Myriad of possibilities coming from not a single region, but a part of a region. So what you can get in the Verona area, you would not get maybe from the Treviso area. And that is something that it's very important to learn about Italian heritage, I would say. And that's what makes our food canon very wide and important. One other thing that I love is I like to read books, recipe books from the past, you know.

7:14Pellegrino Artusi or Adaboni. You can see the variety. Adaboni was a big influence on me. She's great. I think she's great. Talisman o della Felicita. Yeah, Talisman. Do you remember that? Yeah, I have it. I hope I have mine downstairs. But they were so simple, right? So short in these recipes.

7:35Thank you for listening to Ruthie's Table 4 in partnership with Montclair.

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