In short
Mandy Lee (Old Loser in Brooklyn) discusses her fashion/trend forecasting process, 2026 trend predictions from Fall/Winter 26 runway, Met Gala “Costume Art” predictions, and why she believes emotion, texture, and cultural context matter more than AI-generated trend reports.
Guest background
Fashion and trend analyst with hundreds of thousands of followers; started in tech planning/forecasting in Boston, then in-house hair planning in Brooklyn, then beauty e-commerce category planning; laid off during the pandemic, pivoted to TikTok short-form runway analysis; signed with IMG as a fashion commentator.
Key claims
Quiet luxury is losing momentum; brands must balance commercial success with distinct “house codes” and value. Sustainability efforts are being deprioritized for near-term survival. Weather-specific dressing (rain fabrics/outerwear) and tactile textures (fuzzy/plastic textures) will grow. Creative directors increasingly act like stars/world-builders. AI trend reports are often late because they aggregate current data without cultural context; she doesn’t use AI for her work.
Notable examples
Tom Ford clear rainwear; Prada men’s rain capelet transitioning to women’s; Chanel Matt Blasey/Miu Miu utility; Demna’s “see now, buy now” (Gucci) and reported ~$7M early sales; Chanel pony hair flats; Schiaparelli “lung” dress; Walter V.B. bodysuit; Miu Miu beeswax technique; Met Gala “billionaire ballroom” exclusivity speculation (Bezos).
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOMandy Lee's Career Journey
0:45 to 2:24
Mandy shares her background and how she became a fashion commentator.
“The last time you were here was two years ago in 2024.”
Navigating Freelance Life
2:24 to 4:23
Discussion on the shift to freelancing and the challenges faced.
“I've been able to ride the wave all the way to now.”
Trends from Fashion Month
4:23 to 6:41
Insights on key takeaways from the recent fashion month and trends.
“Luke was doing that on YouTube for like, I mean, I think he's been doing it for like 10 years now.”
The Evolution of Fashion Brands
6:41 to 11:00
Mandy analyzes how brands are coping with market changes and the focus on value.
“Like it is a completely different world now.”
The Emotional Connection in Fashion
11:00 to 14:01
A dive into how consumers seek emotional connection through clothing.
“And so I think with these luxury brands, they're really, really going to have to tap into value.”
The Allure of Chanel's Fashion History
14:01 to 15:43
Discussion on the desire to own iconic pieces from fashion history.
“And I know that obviously you mentioned the recent like frenzy over the Chanel moment of it all.”
Accessibility and Inclusivity in Fashion Trends
15:43 to 18:02
Exploration of how democratization in fashion impacts consumer connections.
“And I think that that is so much of what people want right now.”
The Evolution of Fashion and AI's Role
18:02 to 19:16
Insights into how AI affects trend predictions and the fashion industry.
“Also, like, you know, like him or not, Demna knows how to do his job.”
Behind the Scenes of Trend Prediction
22:07 to 26:11
Discussing the methodology behind predicting fashion trends and the importance of human insight.
“And obviously like so much research and thought goes into like all of these videos and all of these, you know, predictions and everything that you're putting out there.”
Cultural Reflections in Apron Fashion
26:11 to 28:01
Examination of the cultural implications of the apron trend in contemporary fashion.
“But then I know that it's like obviously there is that kind of chatter about like, OK, is this like leaning into conservatism in the rise of like trad wives?”
Show all 15 chapters
Utility Trends and Fashion Versatility
28:01 to 31:39
Learn about the rising trend of multifunctional fashion pieces like aprons.
“Let's not like act like that's not a factor in this whole thing.”
The Paper Doll Aesthetic in Fashion
31:40 to 36:49
Explore the resurgence of the paper doll aesthetic and its appeal in contemporary fashion.
“trajectory also within the Miu Miu universe.”
The Impact of AI on Fashion Artistry
36:50 to 40:07
Discuss the implications of AI on creativity and authenticity in the fashion industry.
“Like sometimes I'll watch a video and I'm like, you listened to a little too much Ryan Finn and now you're just trying to parrot Ryan Finn instead of like creating your own like point of view.”
Met Gala Predictions and Themes
40:08 to 42:00
Get insights on upcoming trends and themes expected at the Met Gala.
“It's like you can never hope to be as successful as the people you're trying to imitate because the reason why they're successful is because they have their own point of view.”
Episode Discussion
42:00 to 50:35
“Yeah, but we don't see them until the day just like everybody else.”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:10Welcome to the Who What Wear podcast. I'm Who What Wear senior fashion and social editor Tara Gonzalez, stepping in for Hillary this week. Today I'm speaking to Mandy Lee, aka Old Loser in Brooklyn. Mandy's a fashion and trend analyst with hundreds of thousands of followers across her social media profiles. Today we're talking about her 2026 trend predictions, the impact of the trend of the world. of AI on the fashion industry and her Met Gala fashion forecasts. It's all coming up on Who What Wear.
0:41Mandy, welcome back to the pod. Hi, Tara. So happy you're here. The last time you were here was two years ago in 2024. I think you talked to our editor-in-chief, Kat Collings, about your career. For anybody listening who hasn't heard about that, I would love to kind of, if you could just give a little bit of a glimpse into how you started your career as an analyst. And then now you are one of the internet's favorite fashion commentators. I've been a fangirl for a real long time. Yeah. And thank you guys so much for having me back. It's good to be back with WWW triple W. Yes, exactly. Just, I guess as like a quick, quick and dirty recap, I started my career working in planning and forecasting at a sort of like a tech company in Boston and eventually moved into beauty.
1:31I did the planning and forecasting for in-house hair company here in Brooklyn, actually. Name redacted. I got laid off during the pandemic and it ended up being kind of like the best thing that happened to me because that very day I downloaded TikTok. Oh my gosh, I know, tell us all this time. And then, you know, one thing led to another. I essentially just wasn't seeing the content that I wanted to see and talk about. And to be honest, I really missed analyzing trends. Like I really, really loved that about my corporate job. So it felt like I was losing my identity when I got laid off. I hate to say it too, because now I feel so much more detached from my career as a freelancer.
2:13But I did just like hold so much stock in my job and my career. It was part of my identity. So I really miss doing it. And to be honest, like short form runway review, fashion analysis, trend forecasting, that did not exist when I started in like early 2021, I want to say. So timing was everything for me. I've been able to ride the wave all the way to now. I've been freelance for four years, which is I'm something so, so proud of. I'm now signed with IMG as they're currently they're only the fashion commentator. Okay. I am fucking G. Yeah. So amazing. Congrats. Yes. That was a huge step that I took this year.
2:56It's been really, really crazy. I feel like just this last, I would say six months, our brand's really, really starting to lean in and work with commentators. And it's a little bit different than working with like a traditional influencer. Although I think I dabble in that space as well, or I can. I really kind of like started my career discussing trend cycles, how trends evolve, and of course predicting trends. That's kind of my bread and butter and sort of what I'm known for on the internet, I would say. When you started doing those videos, it was like other people weren't kind of doing that.
3:29And I think other people also just weren't thinking about fashion in that way as something that doesn't just have to be something like consumed in terms of like pretty outfits, like people posting on Instagram, really pretty outfits. And I feel like that was kind of the fashion content outside of traditional media that people were consuming and then with the advent of like tick tock and short form content i feel like then people were like oh we could talk and think about fashion in such a smart and interesting way and i feel like you really led the charge and i think now as you were kind of pointing out a lot of brands are leaning more into that i just feel like we're starting to see a lot of people being like wait i want to actually know about the trends and what that means and what that says about the culture and it's just like so exciting and really cool to see.
4:10Yeah. I mean, I remember when I was first starting out and thinking about going off on my own, I was like, I literally have no one to look up to and to see if this trajectory is actually going to happen except for, shout out, Hot La Mode, my friend Luke. Oh, yes. Luke was doing that on YouTube for like, I mean, I think he's been doing it for like 10 years now. And he was probably the only other person that I knew at the time. Like I just had like a delusional hope that me hating working nine to five and then doing content at the end of the day would pay off. Here's a story I don't think I've ever told.
4:47The way that I quit my last job, I was a senior manager at another big beauty e-com company. It was not an in-house company. It was like a big, you guys probably shop there for all your skincare. But I owned the entire hair care category and I had a small team and I took PTO to do my very first fashion week. Oh my god. PTO that I had allotted I was allowed to use it but everyone had already known at that point it got like it got like outed that I did TikTok on the side and it was really weird because it was in like late 2021 like it was still like kind of embarrassing. I was not embarrassed to do it but but it was embarrassing.
5:31I know what you mean when you're like posting videos and then you're like, and it also felt like not everybody was on there. So you were kind of doing something and you're like, oh, there's a chance like people I know won't see this. And then now it's like, yes, everyone's just seeing it. Low key, a little embarrassing to go to work and then like go home and have this like double life essentially. And my director did not like that. Oh, did not like that. And they like, she asked me to do this meeting when I got back from my PTO and like basically wanted to put me on a pip. And I sat through the whole meeting, let her talk for like 20 minutes about like how I'm not like devoted to my job and this and that.
6:12And I was like, I'm not signing this pip. I'm putting my two weeks in. Yeah. Peace. But yeah, that's the story of how I actually went freelance. I was sort of like pushed into doing it because I'm like, I'm not getting put on a pip because I took PTO. Like, no. Yeah, exactly. You're like, I went to Fashion Week. I was fabulous. And they're just going to have to deal with it. Hardly making any money at the time, too. Like I had a little bit of savings and I was like just completely delusional. I was like, hopefully this works out. Yeah. And it did. So it did. Yes, it did. Things have really, really changed, especially I would say in the last two years.
6:42Like it is a completely different world now. And then obviously you were kind of talking about how your bread and butter is trend forecasting, as we all know and love. And obviously where kind of just fashion month just recently ended. I feel like now like the dust has kind of settled from that. And I would just love to hear a little bit of your takeaways from the last season in terms of if you were like, what are some things that like really stayed with you that kind of got you really excited from last fashion month or what's kind of like on your radar that you're still thinking about? For me, the overall theme of fall winter 26 was movement with fabrics, with silhouettes.
7:20I mean, I think, you know, the whole quiet luxury thing is I always hated it. You, I know, were never a fan of it either. I feel like it was sort of the first instinct into recession core, but that doesn't work just because you make basic clothes does not mean they're going to sell. Unfortunately, I think Sabato's Gucci was a good example of that. Like just because you're making more simple clothes does not give people an incentive just to buy them. So I think movement and texture were the huge takeaways for fall 26. And just kind of leaning more into what makes a brand stand out and really honing on different house codes and what makes a brand actually special, not just making the same white t-shirt with the logo on it.
8:06That's not going to fly. So I think a lot of brands right now are kind of struggling, like, how do we mix like commercial success with standing out and having a point of view, which I think can actually apply to a lot of things right now. In my business, having a point of view is literally everything. It's what keeps the lights on, essentially. And I think that's happening with everything in fashion at the moment. And then I think another like really fun trend that I noticed is this influence with weather. Brands have sort of given up, I think, on sustainability and sustainability efforts are always going to be worth something.
8:45But I think a lot of brands are like, we need money now. Like, how can we get money now? So I think I've noticed a lot of abandoning eco-friendly actions and materials and just efforts in general. And I think, unfortunately, what brands are going to start doing and what we've seen during fall, winter 26 especially, is more like how do you survive the next coming years and what that will build into. So like looking 10 years into the future. And I think what that looks like is very weather specific fabrics, outerwear, like I predicted rain clothing, outerwear. And I mean, that was like in almost every big collection.
9:33Tom Ford is obviously the biggest, I would say, example because they literally had like clear, like a section of clear clothing, clear skirts, clear raincoats, the little granny rain bonnets, which are so chic. So cute. I love those. Very, very that. And of course, Prada for men's had the like half little rain capelet that transitioned over to women's. This is going to be a trend, guys, that just continues and continues and continues and will just, I think, be the standard going forward. Because like think about the last couple of years, there's been a lot of conversations about how quality has fallen, especially at the luxury level, because that is happening.
10:10Corners are being cut, fabric swaps are happening, and even like components like zippers, buttons are getting cheapened. So brands really have to think about what makes our clothing worth it, what makes an$18 ,000 vest worth buying. There has to be some kind of value for the consumer in order for that person to pull the trigger and buy it. We've also been in the process of losing the mid-tier consumer as well. You're either like super rich and you can afford a$12 ,000 Tom Ford raincoat without thinking twice. Or, you know, you're saving up to buy something from like Aritzia. And the discrepancy I feel like is so depressing, A, but also more real than ever.
11:00And so I think with these luxury brands, they're really, really going to have to tap into value. That was a big, big takeaway for me this season is like value and also like this expedition into exploring how we are going to survive the changing climate. I was going to say the plastic. I really loved, obviously, your 2026 trend predictions video. And I was actually going to specifically bring up the raincoats. So you kind of like beat me to the punch there because I do feel like even if what you're saying, you're kind of like it's a little bleak, but the raincoats are really cute. so texture is something that I feel like I definitely noticed a lot more too like obviously like the plastic in itself is also like a texture and I feel like maybe kind of going into like people in general too or like wanting to feel something just in this in the world that we're living in I feel like that kind of like desire for connection and just like everything and then I feel like the way that it kind of like manifests in clothing is everyone's like fuzzy shoes like plastic coats like it's just kind of everywhere and I just feel like it's that type of thing where it's like people are like searching for connection.
12:05And so if they can like wear something that like feels like so tangible and real and like something, I feel like that like elicits emotion. And that's something that people seem to want more of. A hundred percent. And if we look at the brands who I would say are winning across the board, Matu Blasey for Chanel, Jonathan Anderson for Dior, Willy Chavaria, like all these people. My pants are Willy. Hell yeah. I mean, we love Willy here. But all these brands do something that is above and beyond just being a creative director, they are world building every single day, whether it's intentional or not.
12:37I kind of feel like it has to be something brands start leaning into. And also all these creative directors that I just mentioned are more than that. They're more than designers, they're stars. And that's something I think has not always been the case. I think you can say that about like John Galeano. He was always a star and like his own person beyond just being like a creative director at Dior at Margiela or whatever. Like he was his own like figurehead. But I think that's also a trend that I'm seeing at the top level is these creative directors are having to be their own sort of like person and almost like an influencer in a way where it's like they are creating influence as themselves, not just as a creative director.
13:24And like the ability to world build is actually helping people make purchases. Like everyone ran to the Chanel stores to get anything just because like you want to be part of this. You want to be part of the zeitgeist. You want to be part of like this like amazing moment that's happening in fashion. And I think that's really, really something to keep an eye out for. And I think a lot of brands are going to like start either manufacturing these moments of emotion or, you know, letting them happen naturally with, you know, giving people on their team, models, influencers, creators, whatever, more freedom.
14:02Yeah, absolutely. And I know that obviously you mentioned the recent like frenzy over the Chanel moment of it all. And I know that you got the pony, you have the pony hair flats, right? I did. If you could kind of talk a little bit more about like what made you like so connected to that Chanel collection and feeling like you really wanted them and yeah, how you're liking them. I'll be honest, like I wanted something from that collection because I wanted something from Matt's first collection because it's fashion history. Like that was my first reason. Yeah, the flats are cute, but like more than that, I wanted to own something that was part of fashion history.
14:32Like I will be the first to admit that. We all have reasons for why we like pull the trigger on something, especially like more of an expensive purchase. And that was my reason. I hit up my sales associate at Bergdorf's because I don't have a Chanel sales associate. I'm not a customer. I'm sorry, I'm not a VIC. But she was able to reserve them for me. And yeah, that's how I ended up getting them. So guys, go to your local Bergdorf's in New York. They're amazing, amazing, like customer service top tier. But that's how I ended up actually getting them. I was also considering the black croc flats because those were really, really chic.
15:08And I liked the shape and I knew those would get more wear. But I thought the pony hair ones really did like mark a period in time more like and I'm okay with that you know what I mean like are they going to be in style forever no and that's okay and then it's like what you were saying too it's like where people especially now like really want to be part of something and I feel like want to be part of the world that someone's building so it's like by buying that you were saying it's like now you're kind of like have this moment of fashion history and then whenever you see the shoes you're not just going to think like oh those are really cute and I bought them at the time because of animal print or texture whatever you're going to be like I bought it because I wanted to be part of something amazing that was happening.
15:43And I think that that is so much of what people want right now. So kind of like really exemplifies that makes so much sense. Right, exactly. And that's kind of what's interesting, I think, about fashion in 2026 is there's so much accessibility. There's been so much democratization happening in fashion that there almost seems to be like, oh, shit, we went too far. But I think once fashion kind of like once the industry sort of opened the door, they can't shut it. So it's sort of this like double edged sword where there's like so much access and knowledge and inclusivity almost, whether that was intentional or not, that you can't pull the curtain back.
16:20Like people have all this information now. And I think like a brand, like for example, The Row, they don't even let phones in. They'll always have their audience, but I don't think that they'll necessarily like be on a growth trajectory unless they you know release another hot bag or something but this more like if you know you know sort of like brand like very phoebe filo very the row that's kind of over and it's more like people want to feel like a connection to a brand because it makes them feel like part of it and it's just like parasocial thing and there's i say that with love like i'm parasocial about jonathan anderson like in my mind we're best friends you know what i mean like that makes you want to actually go out and buy something so it is like what you're saying that emotional connection is very very important especially at the luxury level and i think too it's like obviously this was another thing from your trend predictions that i really loved and it kind of taps into exactly what we're saying where you're like brands are really pulling back the curtain like with margela showing the kind of like behind the scenes process and with like mark jacobs i was obsessed too when he like listed all of his references yes i also love to he's like i'm referencing myself like you should go off King, come on.
17:33Like, of course he did. But I think that that is just really like emblematic of like right now, I think also with things getting more expensive and people can't afford all of these things, it's like everyone's like, okay, if I'm going to like get behind a brand, if I'm going to get behind an item, I want to know like why, like I want to know what went into it and maybe what was on the mood board. And I want to feel that kind of connection. And I feel like it's really cool to see brands tapping into that. And I feel like to your point, those are the brands that are kind of like getting ahead and that we're seeing people get really excited about on social media.
18:01Yeah, agreed. Also, like, you know, like him or not, Demna knows how to do his job. Was I a fan of that Gucci show? Absolutely not. It was a little embarrassing, I thought. But he did something very smart, which was the see now, buy now. And from what I heard, they sold like upwards of$7 million in the first couple of weeks. So, you know, mission accomplished there. We'll see. I can't wait to see the like the earnings after his first show. But I'm very, very curious to see if he's able to turn the ship around. And Demna is a whole other story about the way that he approaches his job as not just a creative director, but as a star.
18:40And, you know, like him or not, he changed the industry forever and ever. Yeah. And, you know, the see now, buy now, which was when, you know, after the runway, you were actually able to buy many, many of the pieces that were shown. And I think that kind of speaks to our lack of attention span. For sure. But then on the flip side, you have Matthew's collection where people did wait the, what, six months, five months to go and buy. And there was no shortage of excitement for that. So, you know, I think two approaches, two similar outcomes because I think they both sold very well. So I think we'll see closer to the end of the year when the earnings get released.
19:21Can't wait to nerd out about that. I know. I love numbers. I feel like.
19:54to say out loud, but also kind of iconic? Because next month, we're officially going back to the world of Runway Magazine. Premiering on May 1st, The Devil Wears Proditude drops us right back into the glossy, cutthroat, impossibly chic world of fashion with Miranda Priestly at the helm. The Dream Team is back for the reunion of the century. Meryl Streep, Anne Hathaway, Emily Blund, and Stanley Tucci are all reprising their roles from the original film and making me as nostalgic as ever. This time around, instead of the bright-eyed, bushy-tailed Andy Sachs being in the hot seat, Miranda's in the spotlight.
20:27After a long career at Runway, Miranda's facing a major scandal, like a career-defining, magazine-threatening type of scandal that promises drama at every turn. In a twist that feels so full circle, Andy comes back as an award-winning journalist to rehab Miranda's image and help save the magazine, and maybe even Miranda herself. The Devil Wears Prada 2 is promising to give us everything we love about the first film, but even better. The stakes are higher, the one-liner is better, and of course, the fashion is promising to be even chiquer. I think I can speak for all of my fellow fashion girls when I say the thing that makes the Devil Wears Prada franchise so special is the vibes it brought, getting lost in the mystical, magical world of fashion where everything seems all so important all the time.
21:12When I was a little girl growing up, no joke, I had the montage of Andy's wardrobe changes after getting Nigel's health practically glued to my subconscious. The story is aspirational, but also deeply relatable, especially for anyone figuring out their career, their style identity, or just how to survive a truly terrifying boss. Honestly, that's why the sequel feels so exciting. It's not just about the nostalgia. Although, yes, I will be absolutely seated for every callback and every gird your loins moment, but it's also about seeing these characters we grew up with in a whole new era. A new fashion landscape, new pressures, new power dynamics, but that same unmistakable runway energy.
21:53Whether you're watching The Devil Wears Prada 2 for the fashion, the drama, the comedy, or all of the above, this really is the reunion we've been waiting for. Don't miss The Devil Wears Prada 2. Only in theaters May 1st. Get your tickets now. I'm lucky enough to know you personally, but for everyone that's kind of like seeing your short-form content, And obviously like so much research and thought goes into like all of these videos and all of these, you know, predictions and everything that you're putting out there. And I would love if you could kind of if you could peel back the curtain a little bit on your own process.
22:23How do you know when some things like you're like, oh, this feels to me like this is something that's happening, that's important, or like this feels like a trend that's like about to be everywhere? I mean, you got to pay for my methodology now. But to be honest, a lot of it comes with experience. I did not always have this like knack for it. But I've been doing this going on 11 years. This was my 10th anniversary of working in this business. And I didn't always work in fashion, which I think was actually extremely beneficial because I learned the methodology and the technique. I used to work in e-com, then I worked in beverage, and then I worked in beauty, and then I worked in fashion.
23:05So I experienced this kind of methodology in different industries. and I was able to like hone and tweak it from job to job to job when I worked in corporate. A lot of it is like data mining, kind of making like future predictions based on numbers and data. And that can be from like different platforms like WGSN, a spate. But it can also be you need to have a human touch, a human element. And I think like something that's really scary that I see is a lot of reports and trend reports that companies are releasing publicly. I can tell right off the bat that they're AI generated because they're not future looking.
23:48They are aggregating current available data that is not filtered through a human. So therefore it feels very late. It doesn't feel like a prediction. It feels like a report of what's like currently happening. And these brands love to call it a prediction or a forecast. And it's like, that's not what it is. I do like that they are making that information more accessible. I think it's cool. But like, call it what it is. It's not a future outlook. And I think something that I'm able to do that a computer could never do is be able to add the cultural context. So like right now, we're at war with Iran.
24:32Our president is insane and the U.S. is like falling into like a fascist doom hellscape. That actually matters in terms of fashion. I know that like fashion seems arbitrary in comparison because it is like, let's be real. But these things that happen in our world on a larger scale and even on like a more micro scale, like in New York City, for example, or like in Boston or in San Francisco, like what's happening locally, domestically, internationally. it impacts fashion so almost immediately too. Like the whole like raincoat weather protection thing, that is a result of our world changing. Do you understand like, like, it's not just like, oh, we like raincoats now.
25:18Like, no, like that there is a reason why it's happening. And until AI is able to like filter that through their system, they're never going to be as good as me or as good as a human with experience. I want to say before we even go further, I do not use AI for my trend predictions, to write anything, reviews. And if I see any of that, I actually block people because of that because it's like, I don't want to see this. I'm not an anti-AI person. I personally don't use it. I've actually never used ChatGBT before. That's why we're friends. Exactly. But you can't avoid it. You Google something and it gives you the AI summary.
25:58And to be honest, that's quite helpful, actually, I will say. But like when it comes to my work and my creativity, I would not have success if I relied on AI to do it. Machines can, you know, take all the information that they want, but they're never going to be able to like analyze like the things that are happening in our world with the kind of emotion and like understanding that we are, that someone like you is like able to kind of like tie, you know, into that. And to even go off of that, too, like I feel like something this is like really fitting, but I did kind of want to talk a little bit about how you had called out aprons as well as like kind of like an upcoming trend, which we've seen a ton of on the red carpets and on the runways with like Miu Miu.
26:37And it's like a really cute look. But then I know that it's like obviously there is that kind of chatter about like, OK, is this like leaning into conservatism in the rise of like trad wives? or is this like something that's like kind of subversive, which I know is like how like Miss Prada, like in her show notes, she was kind of talking about how it was like an ode to the working woman and this idea that like being a working woman and like, you know, having to wear an apron is like not like something like shameful or like, you know, you should be able to like wear that and like feel beautiful, you know?
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27:04So there's that kind of send on that. But I'd love to kind of hear a little bit about like your take on like the apron trend and like what do you kind of like think that has to say about like culture and the time that we're in? I mean, I think it can go both ways, of course. I think like conservatism is a – it is a cultural indicator that influences fashion. And like you were saying, fashion is emotion. You have to be able to capture the temperature and the emotion in order to understand and analyze fashion, I think, in a relevant way. It's literally not – like the clothes on the runway is not even half the story.
27:40And I think with aprons, yeah, I think it can go both ways because conservatism is a massive factor that has influenced the fashion industry over the last several years. It's also influenced like women's lives all around. Like look at like the politics happening against women in America and of course globally as well. Let's not like act like that's not a factor in this whole thing. But I think on the flip side, women run the world. And I think utility is a major, major trend that also coincides with the whole like weather specific dressing is utility is definitely a factor in that too. Like how do we get more bang for our buck?
28:19And aprons are sort of like an in-between of like a dress, a skirt, a top. So I think having that multifunctionality to a piece is so major. And it's very appealing to people because it's like, okay, this is like a versatile thing. it's almost like outerwear or I can take my top off like Chloe Sevene. Did you see her at the Mew Mew thing? Yes. I think she was wearing a shirt under it but she was wearing like this leather apron. If I'm not mistaken I think that was her. But the girls were in the aprons in current season. It was so powerful and cool because it's like imagine a room of what like 800 powerful women who are like all artsy nerdy.
29:00Like you were there to watch a crazy short film. like you were you went yeah yeah we saw each other I saw yeah yeah when we were going up all the stairs for context Mew Mew during fashion week had a really cool event where they um they partner with like female filmmakers to make these short films and then they screen the films during fashion week so Mandy and I were at this screening for this uh Mew Mew like movie and there was like basically like hundreds of girls there wearing like the cutest like aprons and looks and I think that yeah that was Chloe that was wearing yeah Chloe was like in the corner in like the VIP piece section, like literally in the last seat, in the last row up in front.
29:35It was hot up there. Yeah, it was really warm. But she was in this like sick leather apron. And actually my first memory of a Chloe outfit was this like rickrack like apron thing she wore, I would think probably in like 2006, 2007-ish era. And I remember being like, that is so cute. She was just like in a little white t-shirt under it and jeans. I was like, that's really sick. And again, I think the appeal of aprons is that sort of like in between piece where it can lend itself to something sexy where you're not wearing anything under it. Or it can be a layering piece. It can be leather crochet like the Miu Miu show.
30:14And also like, you know, I think Miu Miu has sort of I don't think Miu Miu is the hottest brand anymore. I think I actually think Dior and Chanel are coming for the crown. Yeah. Like the mighty will fall. They can't stay in that one spot forever and ever. Miu Miu will always have relevancy, especially for girls like you and I who have been fans before the Micro Mini 2022 incident. And will be fans long after too. But I think when we talk about the zeitgeist, Miu Miu has so much appeal to the girls because it felt like kind of like an if you know, you know sort of thing. because a lot of people were discovering Miu Miu and the status that that brand can bring.
30:56And then she changed everything with the logo. And that was very different than the like Miu Miu girl you and I were used to pre-pandemic really. And now I think it's going back to a place of like kind of like weird girl. Super weird. And like I feel like even recently I think some people too have been like, I don't know if I really like the last couple of collections. And I was like, but then I'm like that's interesting because I feel like they feel like some of them older Mimi with all the colors and the pattern mixing and like styling that's almost like slightly off-putting and a little weird.
31:26But then it's like that is what Mimi has always been. But it's cool to kind of, to your point, it's like I feel like people get used to like one brand being one way and then they're like, oh, actually like it's existed for a really, really long time. Yeah, I don't know. I think anything that has sort of a utility feel is, and that's been a trajectory also within the Miu Miu universe. Do you remember like the cargo belt skirts from a couple of years ago? Like Miu Miu has been on that sort. And even the 1999 half harness vest thing. You know, she's been on that grind for ever and ever. But I think the utility moment and the functionality that comes with a utility piece has real appeal right now.
32:11Again, more bang for your buck sort of situation. And anything that has versatility with styling, I think is very, very appealing to people. Yeah, that's actually such a good point because I didn't even think about the apron in terms of utility, but you can wear it so many different ways, which I need to get on the apron grind. So I know I need to find one. But in another, maybe this kind of also kind of leans into the other trend that you kind of talked about, or at least like you were saying a lot about how there was like a paper doll vibe kind of happening. Obviously with, um, you gave a shout out to the Who What Wear, um, cover story with Elle Fanning and obviously the incredible, um, Sylvester Mako.
32:46I'm going to try to pronounce that as best as I can. And like how we've been seeing that kind of like analog kind of style, really like everywhere in fashion right now. If you can kind of explain a little bit about this, like paper doll aesthetic, maybe for viewers, um, who aren't familiar with that kind of idea. And then what do you kind of think is so appealing about it in fashion right now? Yeah. So I would classify my like area of expertise, especially with trends is from I'd say 2008 to like 2017. Like that's the area that I am the most obsessed with because I was, you know, growing up in that time.
33:25And something that was very, very popular kind of when I was getting into fashion was it's now called hypnist purgatory. It was like a retroactive named aesthetic because, you know, we didn't name our aesthetics when they were happening like we do now. We didn't call this like hypnist purgatory. We didn't call indie sleeves, indie sleeves when it was happening. It's a retroactive like named and classified aesthetic. And this was coined by CARI, the Consumer Research Aesthetics Institute, which I highly recommend anyone who's a nerd like us. Go look it up. It's so amazing. It's like a big encyclopedia of all like categorized trends, especially with aesthetics.
34:04So not just – it's not a fashion encyclopedia, although fashion has to do with it a little bit. But it's more like overarching aesthetics. And this was one that was very like crafty. So like Think Paper Magazine, Juno, that intro title is so like iconic because it was like, you know, like hand done. Again, like what we're talking about with AI, nobody like wants to see AI in their art. It's still quite controversial and like it's sloppy. It's, you know, AI generated slop as we like to call it. But it got that name for a reason. It's because it's lazy and it has like no meaning. And that's what, I'm sorry, but when I saw the Prada birds, I was like, girl, why?
34:47You're so much better than this. I know. And like Demna's Gucci teaser, you couldn't go on the street and find an Italian woman that looked exactly like that. I know. Like that literally was an AI generated Italian woman that you could pick off a million off the street. Like I cannot believe, you know, these brands that have endless amounts of resources and money would waste it doing something like that. And, you know, you could say, well, you're behind because it's technology and this is the way that things are, you know, evolving and this is the future. I actually would push back on that a little bit because I think AI for generating art, where does it end really?
35:25Like, why do you need models? Why do you even need fashion? Like, when does it end? So I think the appeal with this sort of new, I'm calling it paper doll, paper doll aesthetic because that's what it looks like to me. I think Sylvester Macau really, really revolutionized that. And he's been, that's like his signature style. And other photographers like Jossa Muller, who was the photographer, the lead photographer and creative director for the paper magazine. Ioshoot, highly recommend looking it up. They have very specific signature styles. and it all starts with like the photograph and then it gets digitally manipulated later on in like post-production which is the way things should be like you start with a real image and then you manipulate it later on like that's good enough for me you know what I mean like you got some real humans to do the work and now you're doing cool shit with it after that's great.
36:25Part of the reason that we were super excited to chat actually was about all the like anti-ai stuff. And I think through things like this, a lot of like the fashion industry has like pushed back against AI in different ways. And I feel like even going back to what we were talking about with the original interest in like what's doing well in fashion, it's like that emotion and that feeling. And I just feel like, you know, AI is never going to be able to create those kinds of things. And I think especially people now too seem like really interested in like analog thinking like, oh, I want to like, I actually like pick up a book and like look at a magazine and like take photos and like do actual like I feel like people are starting to get into hobbies as well and I just feel like things that they can make with their hands and I think that that is just like so refreshing in a way to like at least see like people are at least like appreciating all of these things and like the reaction to all of those like photo shoots and everything has been so positive it is something that in the hellscape that we're living in I'm like okay at least like people seem to really like the real art that's being made and everything everything feels so like doom doom violence like horror terror like everyone's afraid for their lives and you know you get this sliver of hope every now and again and I think one of those things one of the bright spots in fashion are those really artistic creative you know like handmade editorials and shoots and just like these different photographers with such a specific vision again I think and this is something that peeves me so much in my specific niches.
37:54Like sometimes I'll watch a video and I'm like, you listened to a little too much Ryan Finn and now you're just trying to parrot Ryan Finn instead of like creating your own like point of view. And that can be said with like anyone really, but you know, there's, there's inspiration and then there's making it a point to, you know, Make mistakes and take the time and do the work and actually go through the process of developing your own point of view. And I think something that a lot of these photographers who are getting celebrated so much for their style is they didn't just do that their first ever shoot.
38:32And now it's like, yeah, OK, there's my signature. Like this has been a process that we are now seeing like the not that I wouldn't say the end result, but the result as of years and years of practice and mistakes, trial and error. And this is something that worries me so much about the younger generation is I feel like they're terrified to make a mistake because everything's so public. What that does, I think, is making everyone the cops like Gen Z are now literally the online police, the fun police. the punctuation police, the grammar police, the pronunciation police. Oh, my God. Everyone just wants to police each other.
39:11The pronunciation police has arrested me. Oh, I've been arrested so many times. And actually, some people use that to their advantage to like engagement bait. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And it's like because it will work because somebody will get angry. Well, actually, it's pronounced Roshah. Babe, I'm American. Yeah, exactly. I'm not going to roll my R's. Like, you want me to sound like a fucking fool? like I'm not going to do it. But yeah, I mean, I think that's giving people a real fear to like explore and experiment and make mistakes. Of course, we don't want to be saying crazy shit. That's not what I mean.
39:44I think that was really how this whole like cancel thing got born. But it's seeped into everyone's everyday life emotion, their thought process. It's like, it's gone way too far, I think, to the point where people would rather imitate someone who has found success and has found their point of view rather than like take the time to develop it yourself. And that's the thing I see with AI in the fashion space. It's like you can never hope to be as successful as the people you're trying to imitate because the reason why they're successful is because they have their own point of view. And if you want their point of view, they're going to hire them and not the like other people trying to imitate them.
40:27You've obviously been like done a lot of like first and a lot of like really great kind of content that people can try to rip off, but they'll never be as good as you. And I feel like something that you've done really, really well is create a lot of really interesting content around the Met Gala, which we are currently a couple weeks out from the Met Gala. And I know that you obviously I saw you at the press preview when we were getting a first kind of glimpse at the exhibit. And now we kind of know about the dress code. So I'd love to kind of hear a little bit too about what you're thinking in terms of like the trends that we're going to see.
40:54Are there interpretations of it that you're hoping for that you're expecting or what are some of your like Met Gala things that you're predicting or looking forward to? Well, I'm freaking excited about this theme. Yeah, I know. It's a good one. This year is costume art. And I believe the dress code is like art is fashion, right? Yeah. So, oh my God, like how you can interpret that theme in a million billion different ways. There's so much to work with. It's like you could do so many things. Oh my God. Like I'm so excited. So a lot of the exhibition will focus on like different bodies. Classical, reclaimed, pregnant, anatomical, and abstract were sort of like the main pillars that they talked about for the exhibition specifically.
41:41And as we know, the theme is always a little bit different than the exhibition. But to me, the exhibition leads the theme more often than not. And when I get into my trend predictions, more often than not, I'll pick a few that actually end up in the exhibition. And we only get to see like five ahead of time. Like we don't see them all at the announcement press preview. We get to see them on the day. Yeah, it's a sprinkling. Yeah, but we don't see them until the day just like everybody else. So, I mean, the one I'm most excited about I think is the pregnancy one. Like I'm so thrilled that there's going to be like a spotlight on that.
42:18I mean, Rihanna goes to the – she went to the Met Gala what? I think twice pregnant. Comb, I hope to see a lot. I actually wore a comb coat because I knew bodies would be a thing. And I was like, well, there's got to be some lumps and bumps here. Which is so cool to see. And I think the anatomical body will be the most obvious for people. Like, you know, the Schiaparelli lung dress, Bella wore. Or even like the bodysuit, the Walter VB one that we got to see on the press preview day. That was awesome. I mean, I am so – I'm always so hopeful about the Met. And I think the thing that always throws me off, though, is I make Met Gala content every year.
43:01It's one of my biggest nights of the year. And every year the interest gets lower and lower and lower and lower. And the criticism gets higher and higher and higher. And unfortunately, I think a theme that we will see this year is it's the billionaire ballroom. I mean, I don't even know if they're being called the sponsors, but the people who are funding it, the like big influx of money and infusion of money is from Bezos. And I wouldn't be surprised if they bought exclusivity to a specific designer. So maybe they'll go to like Tom Brown or Schiaparelli or like someone and buy the exclusivity rights to be the only ones to wear that brand on the night.
43:51That's something we've never seen before. And I feel like how are they going to like set themselves apart on that night? Like, I don't know. I feel like that's that's gonna happen. That alone will be really interesting. I remember two years ago, there was a bombing happening in Rafa. And it's like you couldn't even like have a moment of escapism because it's like the, you know, like terrible things are like happening on the Met to distract us from what's going on. And it's like just this big like orchestration. As much as I love fashion, it is like a hard push pull. It's like, you know, I want to see beautiful clothes as much as the next person.
44:29But it's also like, this is a lot. Yeah. This is a lot. Yeah. So we'll see. Do you think they're going to be there for the press preview this year? I don't know. I was thinking about that. I hope not. they usually have the co-chairs or like at least one co-chair that speaks yeah was it last year when coleman domingo did that amazing like amazing speech and i was like wow how beautiful like this is what it should you know what i mean it's like those moments where you're like wow like how incredible fashion could be we will see but i am definitely also very excited about all of the the body kind of section the theme is so good and the theme is really really good so i'm just like I was like, okay, I'll focus on that.
45:12And the Margella show happened two days ago in Shanghai. And I'm looking at these dresses and I'm like, this is art. Like the beeswax technique where they like slathered these ball gowns in layers and layers of beeswax and let it crack, which is just like, oh, it's so Margella. It's awesome. It's like the next coming of the, what is it, Biachato, the white paint. Yes. It's like that to the extreme. I'm so obsessed with that. Somebody's got to wear that. I was going to say, that's the official. We're going to put it out there into the world. We're going to manifest. Someone's going to have to wear that.
45:46You got it. You got to wear that. It's also everything that you just talked about. Texture, feeling, emotion, freaky, weird. Someone's got to wear it. I mean, Louis Vuitton is always a big, like, sponsor. And a lot of people go with their contracts. And it's almost always a letdown. Yeah. But, you know, Tom Brown and Schiaparelli, I think, own the carpet. it like almost every Met Gala. So I think we'll always have that to look forward to. Those are the two that always also Mark Jacobs last year. Yeah. I think Mark Jacobs won the Met Gala last year. He killed it. I was floored and blown away. Like also Tiana Taylor will own.
46:23Love her. She'll own. And I think another prediction is Alandria will make her debut. She's gotta. Oh my God. She's gotta. You're right. She has to. That's what the people want. There's always like one it girl who like everyone wants. Like I think last year it was Dochi. Yes. She dressed up as Andrea Leontali. There's always like an it girl that like makes a big splash for her debut. And I think this year it will be Olandria. She needs to be there. You're right. She absolutely needs to. And once again, manifesting these bags dressed, Olandria, Schiaparelli as always. Okay. So I just wanted to kind of do a lightning round of last three questions.
46:59trends what's a fashion prediction that you got lots of hate for that inevitably came true well my like the first time i went viral on tiktok for a trend prediction i got death threats for i bring up the story as often as possible honestly because i'm like remember this remember this and eat your words it was for bloomers and ballet sneakers this was in august of 2021, I want to say. Wow. Hello. What's a trend prediction you've made that did maybe not come true? Oh, a lot. I make mistakes all the time. I swing and I miss all the time. I think one that I got wrong – well, I did think I got it wrong.
47:44It was the Bambi print. I thought it was really not going to happen because I made that prediction at the beginning of 2025. And now it's 2026. Now I'm seeing it a lot this year. Also Paisley. Oh, yeah. Although I also think now it's happening in the form of like bandana print. Yeah. Because bandana print is Paisley. Exactly. I think I got the reference wrong with Paisley because I thought it was going to be more riding the like 70s boho way, which really did not happen. But we'll see. I think bandana print has some potential. Who is currently an underhyped designer that you think will blow up in 2026?
48:24Pauline Dujancourt. Do you know her? Yes. Yeah, of course. She's an emerging designer who is now doing new gen. It's a program at London Fashion Week that British Fashion Council helps them put on their shows. They get a lot of like support and some funding and london is only going to start growing more and more especially with emerging brands laura weir who is a genius and one of my personal heroes new ceo of british fashion council has put a lot of stock in like student designers emerging designers in london and within the uk so i i feel like pauline is only just getting started i discovered her in late 2024 at dover street market oh my god they had like three dresses and that was it and i was like this girl is going somewhere.
49:10Obsessed. I love how you like latched and you're like, there's only three of these dresses here. But I was shopping for my wedding and I was considering one of her dresses because it was so amazing and beautiful. But she's so talented. She's a fiber artist. Check her out. Amazing. Well, Mandy, thank you so much again for joining me. I feel like we really covered everything. We got some Met Gala predictions in. We got some bleak predictions in. Well, it comes with the territory, I hate to say. Yeah, exactly. And like just overall lots of fun stuff, but obviously very big fan of you and everything you do.
49:41And thank you so much again for joining me. Thank you, WWW. We love you guys.
49:53A huge thank you to fashion analyst Mandy Lee. You can now watch all episodes of The Pod on our new Who What Wear podcast YouTube channel, so please subscribe and check us out there. If you have any guest suggestions or any other feedback, find us on social at Who What Wear. See you next Wednesday on the Who What Wear podcast.
50:22This episode was produced by Hilary Kerr, Summer Hammeris, and Natalie Thurman. Our audio engineers are at Glen Canyon Audio, and our music is by Jonathan Leahy.
From the publisher
This week, Who What Wear Senior Fashion and Social Editor Tara Gonzalez sits down with fashion analyst Mandy Lee (aka @oldloserinbrooklyn) to discuss everything from Met Gala fashion forecasting to 2026 trend predictions. Lee also shares her thoughts on AI’s place in the industry (hint: nowhere) and the rise of utilitarianism. Plus, she shares which emerging brand she thinks we’ll all be buying by the end of the year.
Watch this episode here on our new YouTube channel, and be sure to subscribe!



