In short
How skin aging is driven by “senescent/zombie” cells and inflammation, and how to rejuvenate skin using peptides (OneSkin OS1) versus retinoids that may cause irritation if overused. Also covers intrinsic vs extrinsic aging, sun/blue-light/pollution damage, antioxidant and sunscreen guidance, and a sample routine for sun-damaged skin.
Guests
Dr. Carolina Reis Oliveira, CEO and co-founder of OneSkin. Background: PhD in immunology; developed OS01/OS1 peptide; leads lab and clinical studies on skin biological age, senescent cells, barrier function, and inflammation markers. Host: Dr. Jolene Brighton (women’s health clinician/podcast host).
Key claims
- About 90% of skin aging is controllable via extrinsic factors; menopause causes ~30% collagen reduction.
- Retinoic acid/retinol can increase genes tied to inflammation/aging during prolonged irritation/peeling; cycling and barrier support are needed.
- OS1 targets senescent cells, reduces inflammation, restores collagen and barrier, and penetrates from inner layers outward.
- In lab, biological-age changes reported in as fast as ~5 days; in humans, visible results around ~6 weeks; benefits compound to 6–12 months.
- A OneSkin study reported reduced inflammatory cytokines in blood after face/body lotion use (e.g., IL-8, IL-6, TNF-alpha, interferon gamma).
Notable examples
- Split-face study: peptide-containing half improved barrier, fine lines/wrinkles, and radiance more than the other half.
- Guidance: avoid sunburn; morning UV exposure with sunscreen; tinted mineral SPF; antioxidants (stable vitamin C forms, green tea/acai); moisturizer-first retinol application; ceramides for barrier repair.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOUnderstanding Skin Aging
0:00 to 1:24
Learn how lifestyle and cellular health impact skin aging.
“90 % of how our skin can age is in our control.”
Retinoic Acid and Skin Care Misconceptions
2:29 to 4:40
Discover the potential downsides of using retinoic acid excessively.
“Jolene Brighton, and if you've ever been dismissed, told your symptoms are normal or just in your head, or been told just to deal with it, this show is for you.”
The Risks of Retinol Usage
4:40 to 7:48
Explore how retinol can lead to inflammation and what to do about it.
“So I was just peeling all the time and I thought that that was right.”
Peptides: The Future of Skin Rejuvenation
7:48 to 14:00
Learn about the role of peptides in targeting aging cells and improving skin health.
“With the retinol, was it dose dependent in terms of activating pro-aging genes or was it frequency dependent or was it both?”
Understanding Peptides and Their Benefits
14:00 to 14:34
Learn about the role of peptides in skin health and aging.
“So I love this approach because it's one that it goes to the root cause and not only tries to mask the symptoms.”
The Importance of Peptide Quality
14:34 to 15:10
Discover why not all peptides are effective and what to look for.
“And that's why this peptide is effective in reducing this amount of aging cells, which for us, like everyone should be fighting those aging cells because they're going to cause inflammation.”
Mechanism of Action of Effective Peptides
15:10 to 17:06
Explore how specific peptides activate cellular repair mechanisms.
“that one of, you know, sensitive skin and they can be really, really effective in, you know, basically help your skin to build up again that, you know, stronger, healthier skin, as I said, from the inside out.”
Identifying the Best Peptides for Skin Health
18:04 to 19:45
Find out which peptide could be the most effective for skin rejuvenation.
“You said, though, not all peptides are created equal.”
Safety Profile of the OS1 Peptide
19:45 to 20:43
Understand the safety and side effects associated with OS1 peptide.
“And I know that this is a new area of research is growing.”
Timeline for Visible Results from Peptides
20:43 to 23:11
Learn when to expect visible improvements in skin health from peptides.
“I'm curious though, how long does it take to start knocking out these zombie cells?”
Show all 35 chapters
Long-Term Benefits of Peptide Treatment
23:11 to 25:01
Discover how peptide treatments provide long-lasting benefits for skin.
“Yeah, I was going to ask what happens if it looks that good at three months, what happens like 12 months later?”
Measuring Skin Radiance Improvements
25:01 to 26:48
Find out how improved skin radiance is scientifically assessed.
“So that's one thing that I, you know, super excited to share that I think is very unique of, you know, our studies and our company.”
Demographics of Clinical Study Participants
26:48 to 27:59
Understand the age demographic targeted in peptide studies.
“What was the age of the participants in the study that showed these outcomes?”
Understanding Peptides and Collagen Production
28:00 to 30:04
Learn how peptides affect collagen production and skin health.
“because the estrogen, you know, helps you to keep the moisture and the barrier.”
The Link Between Skin Aging and Overall Health
30:04 to 33:07
Discover how skin aging impacts internal inflammation and health.
“So I think, you know, we've, we focused a lot on collagen and fine lines and how your skin will be visibly more youthful.”
Exploring the Impact of Skincare on Mental Health
33:53 to 35:31
Examine the relationship between skincare and mental well-being.
“In this study, the OS1 peptide that was being applied to their skin and to their body?”
Intrinsic vs. Extrinsic Aging Factors
35:31 to 40:33
Understand the difference between intrinsic and extrinsic aging effects.
“And it's one of our goals at OneScan to really include the skin in that conversation because it is one important organ for overall health and one that we neglect a lot of times.”
The Effects of Blue Light on Skin Health
40:33 to 42:04
Learn how blue light contributes to skin aging and oxidative stress.
“is in our control of how our skin can age.”
Protecting Skin from Damage with Antioxidants
42:04 to 45:11
Learn about the importance of antioxidants in skincare and which ones to choose.
“they can also protect against blue light.”
Guidelines for Healthy Sun Exposure
45:12 to 49:12
Understand the safe practices for sun exposure and how to protect your skin.
“but then you said you still want to get your morning sunlight, which we know is great for cortisol.”
Guidelines for Healthy Sun Exposure
49:13 to 49:40
Understand the safe practices for sun exposure and how to protect your skin.
“to severe eczema, also called atopic dermatitis, that is not well controlled with prescription therapies used on the skin or topicals or who cannot use topical therapies.”
Reversing Skin Damage from the Past
49:50 to 52:14
Explore how antioxidants and skincare can reverse past sun damage.
“And I think that's going to bring you joy.”
Effective Skincare Routine for Aging Skin
52:14 to 56:00
Discover an ideal skincare routine for individuals over 50 to combat aging.
“It shouldn't be a surprise because even osteoporosis, right?”
The Efficacy of Eye Creams
56:00 to 58:20
Learn how a specific eye cream can improve hydration and elasticity.
“Well, I do have to say that I have used your eye cream.”
Skincare Routines for Different Ages
58:20 to 1:00:44
Discover tailored skincare advice for those in their 20s versus 50s.
“You can stick to sunscreen, a moisturizer, like our face moisturizer already has like the peptide that will fight the senescent cells that will provide some antioxidants.”
Pregnancy and Skin Changes
1:00:44 to 1:02:28
Understand how pregnancy hormones impact skin and the importance of consulting professionals.
“that you're like, it's really hard in the lab.”
Lifestyle Choices Affecting Skin Aging
1:02:28 to 1:06:27
Explore the lifestyle choices that can accelerate skin aging and how to mitigate them.
“And so be gentle to yourself, be patient.”
The Impact of Sugar on Skin Health
1:06:27 to 1:09:56
Learn how sugar contributes to skin aging and inflammation through glycation.
“We're going to come back to the hair loss because there's nobody listening who's going to let me pass that one up.”
Understanding Hair Loss Drivers
1:10:00 to 1:13:36
Explore the various factors contributing to hair loss in women, including stress and hormonal changes.
“So you said stress can be a driver of hair loss.”
Introducing the Hair Serum Solution
1:13:36 to 1:17:14
Learn about a new hair serum that targets zombie cells to promote hair health and thickness.
“And this is the same OS1 peptide that you were talking about earlier?”
Optimal Use for Hair Restoration
1:17:14 to 1:21:14
Discover the best practices for applying hair serum and timing for results.
“But I would imagine, you know, using this serum, it's helpful.”
Impact of Lifestyle on Hair Health
1:21:14 to 1:24:06
Understand how lifestyle choices like chemicals and sun exposure affect hair and scalp health.
“Yeah, I think that's a good thing for listeners to consider.”
Nurturing the Scalp Microbiome
1:24:06 to 1:26:53
Learn about the importance of prebiotics for scalp health and hair growth.
“There are products, obviously, you know, probiotics for the gut, but they are like in our scalp serum, we have like a prebiotic for the scalp as well that helps like nurture that microbiome.”
Redefining Skin Aging
1:26:53 to 1:28:44
Discover a balanced approach to skin aging and the importance of embracing natural changes.
“But I wanted to finish up by asking you if you could correct one major misconception women have about skin aging, what would that be?”
Embracing Natural Beauty
1:28:44 to 1:29:55
A refreshing perspective on aging and beauty that prioritizes health over perfection.
“I still would do, you know, a lot of things to look, you know, at my best, but I think I try to respect that balance.”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:0090 % of how our skin can age is in our control. The accumulation of aging cells. These are just cells that stop functioning well and they induce the cells around to age faster so they can also become zombie cells. Excess sugar is also connected to the increase in visceral adiposity for women, which also increases inflammation. Skin is a reflection of our internal health. It's like a two-way approach that I think we all need to be aware of. After menopause, it's about a 30 % reduction in your collagen. We start to lose the integrity of our skin. Dr. Carolina Reis Oliveira is the CEO and co-founder of OneSkin, leading groundbreaking work in longevity and healthy aging.
0:45With a PhD in immunology and her pioneering OS01 peptide, the first proven to reverse skin's biological age, she's reshaping how we think about aging from the outside in. We have done studies for cosmetics for three months. We tested the peptide. We saw an improvement in the barrier of the skin, and we saw a more pronounced reduction in fine lines and wrinkles and radiance. There's lifestyle choices that can accelerate skin aging. What are the things that we should consider avoiding? Based on my studies and my research in the field is that First rule, obviously, is avoid. This episode is brought to you by Facebook.
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2:19Visit your nearest croc store today. Welcome to the Dr. Brighton Show, where we burn the BS in women's health to the ground. I'm your host, Dr. Jolene Brighton, and if you've ever been dismissed, told your symptoms are normal or just in your head, or been told just to deal with it, this show is for you. And if while listening to this, you decide you like this kind of content, I invite you to head over to drbrighton.com where you'll find free guides, twice weekly podcast releases, and a ton of resources to support you on your journey. Let's dive in. You have been in the skincare industry for a very long time.
2:58So the juicy question I have for you is, what is something that you were doing? Maybe it was a skincare routine or using a product that you thought was so great for your skin, but then it turned out to be the worst thing you were doing for your skin. Yeah, that's an interesting story. One of the products that I was using since a young age is like retinoic acid because I had acne growing up. And then eventually when I was in my 20s, I continued to use for its anti-aging benefits. and the thing is that I was always like red and peeling and I was like that's fine I'm like just rejuvenating the skin that's how it's supposed to be and then when we started testing peptides and molecules in the lab and we use like retinoic acid as a positive control I saw like genes associated with inflammation and aging going up and I was like whoa I was using this to like rejuvenate the skins and those genes are going up.
4:02So like, what's going on here? So from that time on, I stopped it for a while and I realized that I was overusing retinol because what happens is that if you stop, your skin can, you know, adjust and then you shouldn't be red and like peeling all the time. It's okay in that adaptation phase. But I think I was overusing because I was always like with redness and, you know, a little bit of irritation. And I thought that was fine. And then later on, I realized, no, I was like doing too much into my skin. And when you have like prolonged redness and inflammation, it's definitely not good for your skin.
4:46So my main advice for people that use retinol is make sure that your skin can adapt to it and that you can also combine with a product that counteracts those side effects, the inflammation, the redness and hydration, because that's another thing I was not using like a very good moisturizer. So I was just peeling all the time and I thought that that was right. And then later on, I realized, well, no, that's not how you do it. And today I understand how important it is to have like, you know, to preserve your skin barrier. So make sure that your skin is not super exposed because your skin needs to be strong to protect your internal body.
5:27And if you're constantly peeling, you're basically getting rid of that barrier and your skin gets more exposed. And so that can lead to a lot of issues that today I understand a lot better. How we should take care of our skin in a way that, yes, we can still have the rejuvenation that we want, but we don't need it to compromise our skin barrier. We don't need it to be, you know, facing those redness and irritations all the time. This is actually a sign from your skin. Hey, you know, stop and let's slow down for a little bit. Okay. So we're going to get into rejuvenating the skin and all the things that we can be doing, but you said something in there that I think made a lot of people just raise their eyebrows, which is you said that using this vitamin A, so the retinoic acid that you alluded to, that was causing inflammation.
6:20And you saw that in the lab. Can you say more about that? Yeah. So essentially one of the things that we do, we grow skins in the lab and we can replicate the skin aging. And we test either like a topical product or a specific molecule, and we see how the skin behaves. And with retinoic acid or retinol, it's very clear. When we apply it on top of the skin, we see the upper layers coming out. We know that retinol induces the cell renew. So you're going to basically shed out the top layers and you're growing newer, fresher skin. And as I said, that's okay if it is for a short period of time. And so what we saw when that peeling was happening, genes associated with inflammation and aging were also going up, meaning that, you know, instead of like turning those genes off, that's what we want, you know, to rejuvenate the skin, they can be temporarily turned on.
7:25And that can, if it's sustained for long term, that can be detrimental for your skin. So that's, you know, one of the ways that we evaluate like ingredients and, you know, products to make sure that in the end we want to deliver just benefits to the skin. We don't want to cause, you know, side effects and we definitely don't want to compromise the skin health. Mm-hmm. With the retinol, was it dose dependent in terms of activating pro-aging genes or was it frequency dependent or was it both? definitely the higher dose the the the the stronger the effect uh and in this in the lab we can only test like for a short period of time so that's why i usually associate it with the acute phase that your skin is reacting to it and we cannot like keep the skin longer to see those genes you know coming down uh but definitely the the stronger the retinol or and obviously the prolonged, you know, if you sustain the exposure, that will lead to more inflammation.
8:33So that's why we say that you should, you know, either cycle or make sure that your skin adapts in a kind of a slow phase building so your skin is not, you know, overreacting to it. What does it look like to cycle retinol and what other products should you be including in your routine to kind of safeguard against these effects? Yeah. So cycle basically means like don't use it every day. Use like three, depending on your skin, like how much you can tolerate it, but it starts like two, three times a week and alternate. When you feel that your skin is already strong and can tolerate, you could potentially use every day.
9:19One of the tricks that I do if I want to use it every day, I apply my moisturizer first because then I feel that I have a layer of like protection and then I come with the retinol on top. Because if I do the retinol first, it's gonna maybe work faster, but I also know that I will experience either the redness or the peeling and that I don't want that. So I either alternate or if I want to use it more Often I apply my, you know, OS1 moisturizer first. And the products that you should look to combine are products that will soothe your skin because the retinol can cause redness. You want to calm down.
10:02You want to reduce the inflammation. You want to hydrate your skin because also the retinol can cause dryness. And the other thing is it's basically to increase the repair capacity of the skin and the barrier building capacity. So products with ceramides will help repairing that barrier that the retinol may compromise for the short term. I love that idea. And I also do this as well, so it's really reassuring to hear that of putting a moisturizer first and then the retinol on top. I'm someone with sensitive skin so I always have to be careful of what I'm putting on there and it's funny because my dermatologist is like oh just put a little on your wrist and see how it reacts and I'm like it's like my body thinks my face is different from my neck is different from my chest and is definitely different from my wrist because I might put something on my wrist and it's fine I put it on my chest not fine or my neck and it's like it's on the same it goes from the face to the chest.
11:04And yet, and I think that, you know, some of us are just sensitive like that. And so it's a good tip for people listening, but I know that there's other ways that you can help with the anti-aging process of the skin. And again, I love that you frame this of not about just how do we look, but the barrier of the skin. And I'm always trying to say that to my audience of like, your skin needs to be a healthy barrier to protect you. It's your first line of defense from the outside world. So with that in mind, pregnant women, women who are trying to conceive, they can't be using this topical vitamin A.
11:41There's other people too, they're far too sensitive. So what are some alternatives that people can consider? Yeah, so one of the things that we have been studying for the past almost 10 years are basically peptides, and more specifically one peptide that we discovered that can target the aging cells that build up in our skin. So if we think of how aging happens in our skin, in our whole body, basically one of the key drivers is the accumulation of aging cells. They are also called zombie cells or senescent cells. These are just cells that stop functioning well, so they should be secreting collagen, but they can't produce more collagen.
12:28And they also start to secrete inflammation and they induce the cells around to age faster. So they can also become zombie if you have a zombie cell secreting those bad signals. And to us, even if you have the retinols or if you have your antioxidants, if you continue to accumulate those aging cells, they will be secreting that inflammation and age you continue to spread inside your skin. And when we were studying skin aging and testing the products that were out there, we didn't see any product that was targeting these senescent zombie cells. And we decided to look for a peptide that could specifically reduce the amount of the cells in the skin.
13:17And what happens is if you have fewer of the cells, You basically make room for the healthy, the young ones to replicate and they produce collagen again and they restore your skin barrier. And in a way that's very targeted, it's very specific. It doesn't disturb the healthy cells, so it's not going to cause any irritation or inflammation. And it works basically from the inner layers, from, you know, from the inside out in a way that goes like it penetrates the skin and works from the inner layers to the top. And it goes by rejuvenating all the layers of the skin that gives the firmness and the collagen until to the top of a strong barrier and a nice looking skin.
14:06So I love this approach because it's one that it goes to the root cause and not only tries to mask the symptoms. And again, it's specific. And I think it's interesting, like peptide is very buzzy right now, but not peptides are created equal. And it's important to understand how that peptide works, how that peptide is going to activate the cells in a way that will produce a certain effect. And that's why this peptide is effective in reducing this amount of aging cells, which for us, like everyone should be fighting those aging cells because they're going to cause inflammation. They're going to, you know, cause tissue degeneration.
14:50And it's not all in your skin, in your whole body. But I think the skin is one of the easiest ways that we can address them because you can apply a cream, the peptide, you know, penetrates and works like on the site. So peptides are safe for like people that are pregnant, that are, you know, that one of, you know, sensitive skin and they can be really, really effective in, you know, basically help your skin to build up again that, you know, stronger, healthier skin, as I said, from the inside out. We had dermatologist Dr. Sarah Sharam on the podcast and she was just praising peptides, but not everyone may have caught that episode.
15:39So can you explain what peptides are? Because they are all the rage, but just because things are popular doesn't mean we get the definition around what they are. A hundred percent. So peptides are essentially small pieces of a protein. So they are like little chains of amino acids and they act as like a messenger. They are going to send different messages to the cells in our bodies. And that's the key because the more specific the message is, the better your cell will respond to that message. And a lot of the peptides out there, they are not specific. And the general thought, oh, it will improve, you know, cellular function, it will increase collagen.
16:23But most peptides out there, they are not like the mechanism of action is not really understood. In this case, the peptide that we found, we know exactly how it works. It's going to enter the cell, it's going to send this message to the cell, shut off inflammation. Inflammation is not good for the cell. Let's increase the DNA repair pathways because we needed to protect ourselves against the UV damage and all the oxidative stress and basically helps the cells activate that natural repair system that the cell has. And so your skin is able to behave like younger skin again. So I think, again, peptides can be very useful, but you also need to make sure that they can get into the skin.
17:20And a lot of peptides can be, you know, a higher molecular weight, like a bigger size, cannot penetrate the skin, or they can be not stable enough. So they enter and they degrade. And so testing like the stability, the ability to get into the deeper layers of the skin and how active the peptide is after a certain period of time, it's really key to make sure that you are still getting the benefits when a product claims to have a peptide in it. Turn it up! Storm has zero sugar and 200 milligrams of caffeine, so you can turn that workout up a notch. Good energy in, good energy out. Energy for life.
18:10You said, though, not all peptides are created equal. There are so many peptides out there. We're seeing people inject them. But what you're talking about is a topical peptide. If there's one peptide people should be looking for, if they want to eradicate zombie cells and promote healthy skin over their lifetime, is there just one that someone could pick? So as far as we know, and we've been studying this for the past nine years, as I said, the The peptide that we developed, OS1, that's published in scientific journals, it's validated in clinical studies, is the only one proven to decrease the amount of these zombie cells in these skins.
18:56There are other ingredients out there that are plant extracts and other products claiming to reduce the amount of senescent cells. I haven't seen the data that really proves it. So if I, at the moment that I see it, I'll definitely share. Actually, there is one product that's also based on exosomes. And there is one study, it's a small study that claims to reduce senescent cells. And I saw the data. So that one, okay, at least I saw the data. But peptides, as far as I know, OS1 is the only one that's like published and validated to be able to be specific in reducing senescent cells. As I said, there are peptides that do other things, but specifically targeting zombie cells, as far as I know.
19:45And I know that this is a new area of research is growing. So I'm sure that eventually more will come up. But this peptide that we develop, it's been studied for the past nine years. And that's one that we feel really, really confident about the efficacy, the safety, and the ability to do what it's supposed to do. Have you seen any side effects with it that people should be aware of? We have not seen any side effects. We have tested peptide in different doses, lower, higher concentrations. and the peptide, it's really safe and not have promoted any toxicity, any irritation. So again, that's one of the beauty of relying on peptides.
20:36I would say like this peptide more specifically has not been shown any side effects. So I'm curious with applying this, so this OS1 peptide can penetrate the skin. I'm curious though, how long does it take to start knocking out these zombie cells? Of course, we're interested in that, but I think my listeners are probably also like, and when does my skin start looking better? So I think that's a two-part question of what have you seen in terms of your scientific research around this? Yeah. So in the lab, we have seen results as fast as like five days, but also in the lab, it's a very controlled condition.
21:19But we see that it reduces the load of senescent cells. And also we can measure what we call the skin biological age. And we can see the age of the skin. In five days? In five days. But in the lab. That's pretty incredible. I know. It's in the lab. It's very, very controlled. So everyone listening, you don't live in a lab. So it's a little bit different. But it's still pretty tremendous to see that kind of result in five days. Yeah. And that's, I think, the beauty of science is that we call it like a proof of concept, right? Like it works in the lab in these conditions. So now how we can translate this into humans?
21:57So in humans, we have done studies. The classic studies for cosmetics are like three months. So we tested the peptide. we even did like a split phase study with the full formula containing all the other ingredients that are also very beneficial for the skin and half of the face containing also the peptide and we saw that in this half of the face we saw an improvement in the barrier of the skin that we didn't see the other side and we saw more pronounced reduction in fine lines and wrinkles and radiance that was less, you know, pronounced in the side without the peptide. And we start seeing results around six weeks.
22:43So usually in the beginning, you are going to see results first, like in the texture of the skin, in the softness. And then with time, you are going to basically see the results that are related to changing basically the makeup of the skin, right? So So you're going to see the firmness, the plumpness, the reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, the tone, the evening in pigmentation. But more interesting than that, we extend our studies to six months and 12 months. Yeah, I was going to ask what happens if it looks that good at three months, what happens like 12 months later? Yeah, so interesting, very interesting.
23:26We see that the results are compounding over time. So we see, even if like we have this measurement, it's called like medical grade evaluation. So there is a dermatologist that's looking at the patient and is like grading their fine lines and wrinkles. And we see that the reduction, you know, increases over time. We see that the firmness increases over time. and so it's really interesting first that we are like obviously following these participants for a long time yeah and second we also collect like small pieces of the skin like small biopsies and we can look like internally at the cellular level and we can see that we continue to reduce like the the senescence you know cells the zombie cells and inflammation and improving collagen so it's one thing that we we really pride ourselves of doing because for us it's it's not only focused on the near-term benefits which we all are you know expecting but how we're how we are treating our skin to improve it in the long term and we we have this we call ourselves even like a longevity company because we are we are working to help you to have your best skin not only today, but, you know, in two years, five years, 10 years from now, we want yourself to be, you know, thankful for investing your skin in the right way with the right approach.
24:58One that's like focusing and optimizing your health. So that's one thing that I, you know, super excited to share that I think is very unique of, you know, our studies and our company. And for everyone listening, we will link to these studies in the show notes. So if you want to check them out yourself, you said radiance was one of the measurements, like improved radiance, but how is that measured? What does that mean? Because I think, you know, immediately when you said it, I had an idea in my mind and I'm sure people have ideas in their minds, but how does the science measure improved radiance?
25:34Yeah, there are specific equipment that we use in clinical studies and these are studies that are done by third parties. So we're not the ones that are actually measuring it. which I think it's great because we have third-party validation. And so basically when your skin ages and becomes more dull, you know, you lose that radiance, right? And so when you recover like that moisture, that barrier in your skin, you know, we say this word that's like a little, you know, maybe overly used glowing. It's basically... But that's exactly the word I thought when you said radiance, I was like, oh, like glowing skin.
26:13Like you think about how in pregnancy everyone says like oh you're glowing um so I was curious if that was that was part of the evaluation yeah exactly and so you feel that your skin is healthy it's like it's plump and and you know it's somewhat in some way like it's very joyful I I that's how I feel my skin like when I look at the mirror today I feel like wow my skin is so healthy I like you know touching it and I see the bouncing. And that's just like that radiance that always comes from within the way that your skin is healthy within. And then it reflects in that way. What was the age of the participants in the study that showed these outcomes?
26:57I'm curious because as we know, lots of estrogen and aging, we start to lose the integrity of our skin. Our collagen declines. We know that after menopause, within that first five years, it's about a 30 % reduction in your collagen. So I'm just curious, like what age demographic were you catching in this study? Yeah. Most of the studies that we do is usually plus 45 years old, 45 to 65. Some are even older because in that case, we want to address like the skin when it gets like too fragile. It's a different study that I can share. But for this like phase studies, it's usually from 45 to 65. So it does include like mostly women in menopausal period.
27:48And we can see that there is like this really impactful benefit of like helping restore that collagen production and the barrier. because obviously your skin is going to get also drier because the estrogen, you know, helps you to keep the moisture and the barrier. So most of our studies are in participants that already experienced those like significant collagen decline. And it's really interesting to see that we can recover some of that and, you know, help your skin recover that, you know, healthy, you know, glowy look. I know you said a lot of the peptides, we don't know the mechanism by which they work.
28:31Do you know what it is about this peptide that helps that collagen production? Yeah, definitely. So what happens is senescent cells, they are basically not producing collagen. They are not functioning well anymore. And they are going to start secreting this inflammation that are going to induce the cells around the tube become zombie as well. By reducing senescent cells, also some of the inflammation, the signals that they secrete, induce collagen degradation. So by shutting off the senescent cells, reducing their amount, we first are preserving our collagen. second we are maintaining the healthy cells healthy and functional and we even allow them to replicate so they can continue to produce collagen so we're basically eliminating what is like causing aging and the collagen degradation and we're allowing your skin to do what it's supposed to do which is like proliferate replicate produce collagen and so we are removing we sometimes we call like the senescence of the bad apples you know the ones that are rough like when you have a rotten berry in the bunch and you're like i have to get this out before it destroys my whole bunch yeah exactly so that's how we you know the peptide is working you know getting that berry you know rotten berry out and so preserving the healthy ones so they continue to thrive.
30:05So I think, you know, we've, we focused a lot on collagen and fine lines and how your skin will be visibly more youthful. And we know that visibly youthful skin, there's also a benefit beyond that. So I'd love to talk a little bit about why this is important beyond just how we look beyond just, you know, fine lines and wrinkles that come with the loss of estrogen? Why should we care about wanting to have these senescent cells gone and also having the healthiest skin? Yeah. So this is actually one of the main reasons why I got so excited about working in the skin and aging. Because to me, until, you know, a few years ago, or maybe until today, Most people just think of your skin from an aesthetic standpoint.
31:01And then when I started studying skin and aging and obviously realizing that your skin is your largest organ, as the skin ages and accumulates more of the zombie cells, they are secreting more inflammation, not only in your face, but throughout your body. And since your skin is basically covering your body, that inflammation that is increasing in your skin eventually impacts internally your levels of inflammation. And so the skin aging process also impacts our internal aging. And we actually did a clinical study to validate that. And for that study is the one that we use like elderly participants when they already have the skin a little more fragile and thin.
31:49And so they were over like 60 years old and they used our face and body lotion for three months. We collected their blood, you know, at baseline and at three months. And we saw that just by recovering the strength of your skin, the barrier of your skin, and reducing the inflammation that's coming from your skin, we could lower the inflammation in their blood. Like in some inflammatory cytokines like IL-8, IL-6, TNF-alpha, interferon gamma. So these are all very pro-inflammatory cytokines or, you know, signals that our cells produce. and we saw significant reduction in IL-8 and we saw a trend in decreasing this overall profile of like molecules that are our that they had in their blood so this study is also published we can link at the episode and it's again it's one of the few studies that's connecting like the importance of your skin you know impacting your overall health and so I'm fascinated about that And even because obviously the more inflammation that you have in your blood, I mean, this is associated with chronic diseases, Alzheimer's, all cause mortality.
33:06So if you're doing everything that you want, you know, that you can do to maximize your health, I think your skin can be an important step into that, you know, achieving that overall, you know, better health. Hey friends, Olivia from OLLI. Between new routines and the ultimate group project known as parenting, you need science-backed solutions that work with your life. That's where OLLI comes in. Start your mornings off right with Maltese made to support nutrition and immune health. Choose from our lineup of gut-supporting probiotics, and we've got occasional sleep support to help the whole fam chase their big dreams.
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33:42Head back to class with the number one gummy supplement brand. Stock up on OLLI.com today. These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. this product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. In this study, the OS1 peptide that was being applied to their skin and to their body? Yes. I mean, their face and their whole body, right? Oh, sorry. That's what I meant. I was pointing to my face and realized like, not everybody's on YouTube with us. Yeah. So their face and then their full body. And that's tremendously impactful. I actually haven't heard of any research where you apply a skincare product and you see a reduction in inflammatory cytokines.
34:24And that also, as we were talking about perimenopause and menopause before, which is when we see such a rapid change in the skin, we see the rise in senescent cells, we see the inflammation, we also see that a large number of women suffer from new onset anxiety, depression, and even thoughts of self-harming. And to me, I'm now, now as a clinician, I'm like, okay, hold up. Like we're, we're looking at gut health. We're looking at their diet, right? We're, we're looking at exercise. We're looking at all these things, but it hadn't occurred to me until this moment, until hearing about this study that we should also be looking at their skin because right.
35:03We're always like, get outside, get your vitamin D, like get your sunshine, but also like wear your sunscreen and not really thinking about leveraging a peptide for immune system modulation. I'm having like kind of a mind blown moment of like, this is really a interesting frontier in terms of having, you know, we talk a lot about holistic medicine, but if we're leaving the skin out of this conversation, it's not really that holistic. Yeah, a hundred percent. And it's one of our goals at OneScan to really include the skin in that conversation because it is one important organ for overall health and one that we neglect a lot of times.
35:47And the skin is a reflection of our internal health, but also sends signal to our internal body. And so it's like a two-way approach that I think we all need to be aware of. And on top of like the implication in our health, the other piece that happens as we age and we ignore like the 97 % of our skin, which is our body, is the appearance of like crepeness and very thin skin, right? And it's like with menopause, you see an increase, you know, significant increase in craveness because of that collagen decline. And that, you know, body treatment can help with that, can help like thicken the epidermal layer of the skin, can help like combating the senescent cells, can help your skin to produce more collagen again.
36:40So even like the improvement in the appearance, the texture, it's really, really impressive. Like what we have seen from our communities and from our clinical studies in recovery that, you know, strong, resilient aspect of our skin that we have right now. But we take it for granted. And then, you know, later in life, we're going to see, wow, why I didn't, you know, treat more my arms, my legs. And even like later in life, they can start like to bruise really easily, to, you know, tear really easily. So it's one area that we also like to bring awareness that we should, you know, treat and invest early on because eventually that will impact our lives in so many ways.
37:25Yeah. And I especially think, you know, as you're talking about this, I think about my family members who are in their 70s. 70s. And there was a situation in our car. We have a little chihuahua. And our son was like, oh, let me just throw the dog on grandma's lap real quick. And the dog started scrambling. And I freaked out and had to explain to my son, once somebody's in their 70s, they can't have dog nails scratching on their skin. Their skin is very fragile. And as you're saying all of this, time, like, I need to ship them some of this peptide. I need to get them this OS1 peptide for my anxiety's sake because I get so worried about that.
38:06And it's something that that generation has certainly said to me, my family members, patients, you know, people I've been in contact with have said to me exactly what you just said. I didn't worry about my skin until it was too late. And I think we have a lot more awareness now. We have a lot more technology with protecting our skin. But it's good to hear that there's a product that can help because I think sometimes when we talk about aging, some things are like, well, you should have known better in your 20s. Like, how many of us knew better in our 20s, right? And then it's like, there's nothing you can do about it.
38:39So having something that you can actually come in and intervene with, I think is fantastic. You mentioned this concept of basically intrinsic and extrinsic aging. So you talked about like, you know, our inner body is a reflection of our skin, but also our skin is affecting our inner body. Can you go into a little more detail around that? Yeah, definitely. So what we call intrinsic aging for the skin more specifically is basically the natural aging process. Your cells are dividing, eventually they'll get old and either they will die or they'll become zombie or senescent, and that's mainly genetic driven.
39:20And that accounts for about 10 % of how we age. Only 10? About 10%. I love this. This is amazing. Okay, keep going. Yeah, the other 90 % of how your skin ages, it's mainly caused by extrinsic factors, which are the UV exposure, our life, you know, our habits, or if you smoke, blue light, pollution, your diet, if you exercise. eyes and so mostly for the skin and I think you know in our inner body this ratio can vary a little bit more but in the skin because obviously UV exposure is one of the key drivers of skin aging this extrinsic factor you know is even more important so we needed to be even more aware of obviously you know sun exposure but also blue light and also pollution and how we're cleansing in your skin, but obviously, you know, our diet, our exercise, our sleep will also affect.
40:26And it's good to know that because there's so much that we can do, right? Almost like 90 % is in our control of how our skin can age. And there are so many things that we can do today. And obviously you talk a lot about them. We can talk more about our skin as well in terms of, you know, sun protection. I'm also a fan of, you know, having the natural light early morning, but I also know, you know, long exposure, sun will cause sun damage and that's how they become zombies. So we know the higher the exposure of UV damage, the more senescent, the more zombie cells your skin will have. And also we know the more zombie cells you have, the more, you know, fine lines, wrinkles, loss of, you know, firmness, uneven tone, dark spots, sun spots we'll have.
41:20So I think we have in our hands like the power of like preventing a lot of that. I want to go deeper on this sun exposure, but you said blue light and I'm sitting here right now in front of a laptop and so are you. How is blue light aging our skin? Yeah, so blue light is basically causing a lot of oxidative stress, producing more free radicals. These free radicals are basically molecules that are going to cause damage in our proteins, in our DNAs. And so there are two ways that you can prevent that. One is through antioxidants that will neutralize the free radicals and prevent them from causing damage.
42:03and also sunscreens, like in our case that we use, like zinc oxide, the mineral sunscreens, they can also protect against blue light. So if you're wearing sunscreen right now, it doesn't mean that you are like close to a window necessarily, but if you are in front of the screen, your sunscreen, in our case at least, we made sure that it also contains ingredients that will protect against blue light. I love that. That is seriously so good to hear. But you said antioxidants. What antioxidants should we be looking for to apply to our skin to protect it from oxidative stress? So there are many antioxidants out there.
42:45I think one important thing to know is the stability of the antioxidants. So vitamin C is a classic. It's a powerful one if it's stable and active. it's really easy that your vitamin C will oxidize. So if you are using a product and it's becoming brown, you know that's oxidizing that the vitamin C is probably not active anymore. So today there are forms of vitamin C that are more stable. We do use a stable form of vitamin C in our sunscreen. So other antioxidants are like green tea, acai extract. there are other plant extracts that are you know can be super powerful in antioxidant on our body lotion we have sulforaphane that's another very powerful antioxidant i'm always using that internally um telling people to eat broccoli sprouts but i mean it's so powerful in the research in terms of when we look at cancer formation and you look at sulforaphane and eating your cruciferous vegetables.
43:55So I'm actually excited. I want to hear more. Tell me more about that molecule for your skin. Yeah, basically, it's this really powerful antioxidant that helps, again, fighting these free radicals and can help your skin to, again, be more effective in fighting that damage. And as you point out, there are studies showing that it can fight the cancer cells. But in the skin will help like your skin repairing damage more efficiently. So if you're able to repair damage, your skin will not accumulate those zombie cells. That zombie cells comes from a lot of damage. And these powerful antioxidants can help with that.
44:38What form of vitamin C should people be looking for? I don't have the name right now, but I can send to you. and I will send, we can add on the notes of the episode, but there is this stable form of vitamin C that I know that we should look for it because it's not going to oxidize and you know that it's going to be, you know, active long-term. Okay. So I want to circle back to the UV conversation because we know, right, that there's certain times that we want to stay out of the sun, but then you said you still want to get your morning sunlight, which we know is great for cortisol. So what are kind of the general guidelines for maintaining healthy skin when it comes to sun exposure?
45:29I think the general that I, you know, take and I recommend that I'm not a dermatologist or a physician, I'm a PhD, but based on my studies and my, you know, obviously my research in the field is that you want to avoid, first rule obviously is like avoid sunburn, right? And so sunburn, we know that is definitely correlated with skin cancer and that we want to avoid at all costs. I think that, you know, early 15 minutes, like sun exposure in the morning, again, depends where you live, because even in the morning, depending, it could be already really hot. So usually the recommendation is a UV index under three.
46:19But I know that some places, you morning you can already be above three. But I would say, you know, avoid the sunburn, 15 minutes light in the morning. And then I apply my sunscreen every day. I usually replace my foundation with the sunscreen because we have this tinted one. And to me, like if I can have like a tinted sunscreen that is performing like my foundation, it doesn't give you a lot of coverage, but just like, you know, even your tone a little bit. I know that's protecting my skin. It's like a very nice texture. Like I don't feel that I have sunscreen in my face. So I do that. And so I'm protected again for blue light, for sun, you know, for driving.
47:06I think that's the other, you know, part that sometimes we forget on our hands as well because we're driving. But I would say, and I enjoy a lot, you know, outdoors activity, but I'm constantly like reapplying sunscreen in a way that I don't get sunburn, but I get a little tan. And I think that's fine because your melanin is protecting you against the UV damage as long as you're not like getting sunburn. So that's my philosophy. I know that again, people will have different opinions, but I'm more like in that middle ground that I still enjoy life outdoors. I love that you're saying that, though.
47:48I still enjoy life because sometimes I have friends who are dermatologists and they're like, yeah, right. Don't go out in the sun. You should never be out there. And I appreciate what you're saying about your hands, too. So I garden. I do love being outside. I also love to snorkel. And when I go out snorkeling for hours, I will wear a shirt that's a UV protection because I'm not going back in to if I find, you know, really cool puffer fish, I'm hanging out, not going back to reapply sunscreen. But I've always done like whatever I do to my face, my neck, my chest, do it to the back of your hands as well.
48:25And because you're going to go out and you're going to live life. And I really appreciate that message because sometimes, you know, and let me just say to the dermatologist credit, they see a lot of skin cancer. So if you're just seeing skin cancer day in and day out, you're going to have a different perspective about things. But we can't lose the plot in terms of what are we here for. It's to live a full life.
49:13to severe eczema, also called atopic dermatitis, that is not well controlled with prescription therapies used on the skin or topicals or who cannot use topical therapies. EBCLIS can be used with or without topical corticosteroids. Don't use if you are allergic to EBCLIS. Allergic reactions can occur that can be severe. Eye problems can occur. Tell your doctor if you have new or worsening eye problems. You should not receive a live vaccine when treated with EBCLIS. Before starting EBCLIS, tell your doctor if you have a parasitic infection. Paid partnership with Lilly. Respect your time. Ask your doctor about Epclus and visit epclus.com or call 1-800-LILY-RX or 1-800-545-5979.
49:49Yeah. And I think that's going to bring you joy. That's going to decrease your cortisol level. That's going to reduce inflammation. So I think there is like so much of these other benefits that we're not taking account. And it's also helping your internal health in so many ways. Absolutely. So we talked about, you know, the sun exposure. What about people listening right now that maybe they were the baby oil era? You know those people, right? I remember my mom putting baby oil on and going out into the sun. Their skin now, they've suffered skin damage. Are there things that they can be doing now?
50:29Like do some of these antioxidants, are they going to offer protection? Are there ways to reverse that? Yeah, 100%. I think the beauty of, you know, what science has shown us is that aging is a malleable process. It can be reversible. And so all of that, what we talked today, you know, your diet, your antioxidants, the peptide, even the retinol at, you know, the right dose and the sunscreen will help like, you know, reverse part of that process. obviously it's going to be a gradual process. It's going to take months and years, but it is possible with the right routine and the consistency to really repair that damage and bring your skin into a healthier, younger, functional state.
51:21And so I usually say it's never too late to start. Obviously, the earlier that you start, the better. We know that we do start accumulating those zombie cells as early as our in our 20s so oh no yeah because i mean in the end like our life is like is the build up of this you know small habits and and so if we are aware if we're lucky to be aware in our 20s that amazing right like let's use sunscreen. Let's use like a good, you know, moisturizer with a peptide that has, you know, scientific validation behind and just maintain that skin like, you know, younger, healthier, functional longer. It's easier than reverse.
52:11So, yeah. Yeah. It shouldn't be a surprise because even osteoporosis, right? We're always like, oh, that's the problem when you're in your 60s. It's a problem in your 20s and it keeps going and then it manifests in your 60s, 70s plus. So I am curious though, like what would you say is a good routine? Obviously, you're not a doctor. This is not a prescription, but just you have been deep in the research. So in terms of someone has had sun damage, let's say they're 50 plus years old, what would be a good daily skincare routine for them? Yeah, I mean, I'll share mine, and probably I can extrapolate for someone that has more sun damage than I do.
52:55But I would say start with like, you know, a night cleansing your skin with a gentle cleanser. You can double cleanse or you just like have a gentle cleanser that doesn't disrupt your skin microbiome, shouldn't dry out your skin. I think at their 50s, primarily, we are trying to preserve like our skin and, you know, the barrier, which is really, really important for everything else. So a gentle cleanser and something that's not a strip out all of your oils, really, really important. Then you are going to come, I would say, start with a moisturizer that has peptides that have been scientifically validated or clinically validated.
53:41And then I would come with the retinol. You could add another step of antioxidants more specifically that could help with brightening. so we know that you know the seafaring lake like it's like one of very powerful blend of antioxidants i'm more fan of antioxidants than the prescriptions ones but obviously everyone is in a different phase and you know you you can go through the prescription route as well one other thing that we have that we recommend it's an eye cream because what do we when we're studying, we found that the skin around our eyes is 20 to 30 years older than the skin around, you know, our face, like samples and cheeks.
54:31And we know that the skin is five times thinner, accumulates more of the zombie cells. And obviously it's really hard for you to, at least for me, like I don't put like a retinol on my eyelids. I feel that it's too much already. So we formulated an eye cream that has a higher concentration of the peptide and the clinical studies, the data is the strongest one in terms of increasing collagen, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Even the eyelid that starts to droop a little bit, like we could see a bit of a lifting effect and elasticity. elasticity. So this is the most like powerful product that we have in terms of efficacy.
55:18And that's primarily it. And then you could like apply the retinol on top of the moisturizer, as I said. And in the morning, very simple, at least I try to keep a very simple routine. I don't cleanse my skin in the morning again, because it's already, you know, clean from the night before. I just rinse it with water. If you have like very oily skin, which is usually not the case for 50-year-old women. Just rinse your face and then apply your moisturizer. In our case, our SPF already has all the antioxidants, so I skip like I don't need to have another vitamin C. And that's it. Like, I'm ready for the day.
56:01Yeah. Well, I do have to say that I have used your eye cream. I've been using that. I didn't have any reaction to it, despite having sensitive skin. And it's back to school week. And I was joking with my husband that I was like, I swear this eye cream is saving me from how tired I really am from actually anyone knowing. Like, nobody knows that I'm actually tired because something I notice as I enter my 40s is that if I don't get great sleep, it's like really around my eyes that I will notice it. And sleep definitely wasn't great. Like these last few days is just like, you know, I don't know if you have kids, but you get like 1000 emails and there's 1000 things to do before school.
56:45And I've been so anxious about like, don't mess this up for him. And so I really appreciate your eye cream. It's interesting that you said this is the highest efficacy product. Can you say more about that? Yeah. So for every product that we have, we run our internal data and we also run clinical studies that is done by a third party. So in our internal data, when we compare the levels of collagen that we induce with our eye cream compared to the face, it's more than double in terms of collagen production. And the genes associated with aging are also more reduced. and for the clinical studies we saw a really strong improving hydration so it was like 32 percent measured by instruments there's where why i don't look so tired this week right there that 32 percent bump in hydration yeah and the hydration will really help with like smoothing out the fine lines and and we also saw a 24 percent increase in elasticity and i love that all this data, it's measured by instruments.
57:53So it's like, you know, it's quantified. It's not like consumer perception that like, I feel, you know, this way or that way. For me as a scientist, I always look for the hard data. And again, with a formula that it's validated to be safe for sensitive skin. So it's really good for that delicate skin around our eyes. mm-hmm so i want to shift the conversation because i asked you the skincare routine of like what if you're in your 50s but i bet there's a 20 something right now being like hold up she said these senescent cells are starting in my 20s and you're just going to glaze right over this no we're not we're going to come back to this so i want to jump back so let's say someone's in their 20s should they have the same skincare routine as someone in the 50s i think you can reduce the amount of steps So I think for the 20s, like if you don't have like discoloration, I don't think you need like a vitamin C.
58:52You can stick to sunscreen, a moisturizer, like our face moisturizer already has like the peptide that will fight the senescent cells that will provide some antioxidants. And I think that's it. I think if you want, yeah, if you want to start with a very light retinol, but again, I would do like a few times a week. I'll definitely not be aggressive for your skin if it doesn't need to. You want to maintain your skin. You want to make sure that your skin is thriving and you don't want too much on your skin. That's like my advice for younger people. Yeah. Now, the other phase of life that women go through is pregnancy.
59:37And we said like, you know, the pregnancy glow earlier, but it's not like that for everyone. For some people, they get really red and splotchy. Melasma is a thing that, you know, I think a lot of women dread, whether they're going to get it or if they have it, trying to get rid of it. Can you talk to us about how pregnancy hormones are impacting the skin? Yeah. And I maybe I was saying that this is not, you know, one of my main expertise and mainly because it's really hormonal driven. So hormonal influences is really hard for us to understand in the lab, but there's something more systemic. And so I would probably recommend, you know, talking to a dermatologist because I know that some of the brightening, the vitamin C could help.
1:00:25But I know that some melasma cases you definitely need to consult with a dermatologist. Mm-hmm. Well, I think that's important for women to hear because sometimes we think like we have to DIY everything ourselves. And sometimes you just need to go to a provider. And I appreciate that you're like, it's really hard in the lab. Yep. That's why we don't have a lot of studies on a lot of these things because hormones are hard just because you're pregnant and your neighbor's pregnant and your best friend's pregnant doesn't mean you have the exact same hormone profile or that your genetics responds to those hormones in the exact same way.
1:01:04So it can be really complicated. But I do appreciate that at the top of this interview, you talked to us about how these peptides can be used in pregnancy because we're seeing more women are having babies in their 40s. And they're like, wait, what do I do now? Because I can't do the retinol and I can't do the Botox and I can't do the lasers and I can't do, you know, all of the things that people talk about out there, which is, you know, there's a wide variety of things. And so knowing that you can still access these peptides and that it's modulating inflammation, I think is also really interesting as well, especially as I consider that as you shift into postpartum, we can see a huge inflammatory response just by way of the immune system shifting with the loss of the placenta and the birth of baby.
1:01:57Yeah, no, 100%. And counteracting that inflammation with like those soothing, that's a time that I think you needed to be, you know, give some extra love to yourself. And, you know, don't try too much. Like you recover and I haven't had kids yet. So I'm still to go through that phase hopefully soon. But I think we just needed to sometimes be patient as well. And with time, our body has this beautiful ability to recover. And so be gentle to yourself, be patient. And there are alternatives that are safe, that are gentle for your skin, so you can rely on them as well. You mentioned earlier there's lifestyle choices that can accelerate skin aging.
1:02:42I would love to go through a list of those so people know what are the things that we should consider avoiding. Yes, definitely. So, I mean, the first one, basic one, we'll start with the, again, the sun exposure that we already talked. And I think something that we needed to be mindful that in our daily basis, we are being exposed. You know, you can be by a window, you can be commuting. And so a lot of people are still like, I'm just applying if I'm going to stay in the sun like for hours. I think that should be a daily habit. if it's a product that's safe for you. I know that there is some concerns around sunscreen out there, the chemicals, and they could potentially, you know, have some implications, but there are the safe, you know, mineral alternatives like the zinc oxide that you shouldn't have any side effects and it can still feel really nice into your skin.
1:03:43You need sleep. It's another one. We know that impacts everything and obviously impacts our skin so much. I'm just laughing because I outed myself with the sleep.
1:03:59If you can, you know, give yourself like that eight hours, like more than eight hours is like how much you're recovering, right? So how much you're actually resting, because that's the time that your body, your skin is really repairing all the damage that you were accumulating the whole day. So if you don't give your skin the right time, like your skin will wake up tired and will, you know, go through another battle. And so I'd say sleep is a really key one. A clean, you know, healthy diet full of antioxidants. You want to avoid sugar that is going to increase your inflammation. you want to increase your levels of proteins you can supplement with collagen that you are going to give your skin like the building blocks that your skin needs to build your own collagen doesn't mean that the collagen that you're drinking is going to go straight to your skin but you are allowing your body to have like the the building blocks that it needs and on top of that the collagen, it can be also antioxidant, so it can help in other ways and it can help with your joints and other things as well.
1:05:19We know that exercise and all of that also, you know, the movement impacts your skin. And finally, you know, stress. I think stress is another one that to me, you know, running a company, it's one that I'm trying to fight and manage the most. and we know that the increase in cortisol is going to impact inflammation. We also saw even cause things like hair thinning, hair loss that we didn't talk about. But again, senescent cells are also involved in hair thinning and hair loss, and stress is a major driver of hair thinning. And so trying to manage that stress, you know, with meditation or whatever you do to kind of disconnect and reset, I think it's one that most people may ignore based on our busy daily lives and can really impact in your skin in so many ways too.
1:06:27We're going to come back to the hair loss because there's nobody listening who's going to let me pass that one up. But you said sugar leading to inflammation as a driver of skin aging. Can you explain more about that?
1:06:56save with the personal price plan. Prices are based on rating plans that vary by state. Coverage options are selected by the customer. Availability, amount of discounts and savings, and eligibility vary by state. Yes. So basically what happens when we're eating a diet full of sugar is that sugar is going to bind to proteins and it's going to form what we call advanced and glycation products, AGE. And this is basically making your collagen more stiff and not like malleable. So you're going to lose like the firmness. Your skin is not going to be as bouncy the more AGEs that you have in your skin.
1:07:40So a diet full of sugar will lead to more AGEs will lead to inflammation, will cause your collagen to be stiff and not like malleable as you want it. We call it cross-linking the collagen. So it's not like working properly. And that is also signaling inflammation to the body. So definitely not only that, but you know, when you eat like either like a piece of meat or bread, that's a little burned, is also full of, you know, advanced glycation products. And you should avoid that, the burn piece as well. I'm always like, with people around me, don't eat that burn part. And some, some people love that.
1:08:23I have a father-in-law who eat like burnt toast and I'm like, no, don't do it. But I also have a 12 year old who like, he's like a little food patrol at times where he's like, is that raw? Is that overcooked? Like, and so he'll get on his grandpa about it. Like, you can't eat that. It's not good for you. So, you know, as you're bringing this up and I'm thinking about like, okay, so we've got perimenopause, menopause, we're having loss of collagen. We've got these, you know, glycation elements in our skin that are also contributing to the problems that we face in terms of what we're trying to avoid aging.
1:09:03But the other thing that was coming up is like this excess sugar is aging your skin. It's inflammatory because of this process. But that excess sugar is also what we see connected to the increase in visceral adiposity for women, which is the fat that packs around their organs, which also increases inflammation. So just for our listeners to make that connection of like, this is, you know, not just about metabolic health. And we're talking about excess sugar. We're not talking about you ate berries. We're talking about, you know, you're eating cake, ice cream, soda, like adding tons of sugar to your coffee.
1:09:40You're going past 25 grams of additional sugar that's coming outside of your natural food sources. That can be so problematic for our cardiometabolic health, but also our skin health as well. And I think that's a really important connection for people to make. Now we're going to go into that hair loss because I know that that peaked listeners' attention. So you said stress can be a driver of hair loss. What else should women be considering if they're experiencing hair loss? Yeah. So one of the things that we realized as we were studying zombie cells in the skin and eventually we all, you know, I don't know how many people realize that, but like your scalp is basically your skin as well.
1:10:23It's a continuation of your skin. And so our hair follicles are embedded in that scalp, that's the skin. and that also is aging and it's accumulating those zombie cells. And what we found is that there are studies showing that the accumulation of zombie cells in hair follicles is the major driver of like age-related hair thinning, which basically comes around our 50s. It's different from the male or female pattern hair loss that's more like hormonal driven, like androgenic related, but also stress can cause more accumulation of senescent cells in the hair follicles, and that can lead to hair thinning and hair loss.
1:11:14We even validated this in the lab that we expose the hair follicle cells with hormonal stress, and then it caused senescent cells and then we treated the peptide and we could reverse that like senescent cell. Again, we were looking for a solution that would prevent or reverse hair thinning and hair loss without including like drugs that can, you know, have some side effects. You know, there are like many drugs out there that can block, you know, the conversion of testosterone to DHT, which we know DHT is basically this form of testosterone that can bind in the hair follicles and induce hair shrinking.
1:12:02But all of these drugs can have so many side effects. You don't want to take it if you're pregnant. You definitely don't want to take, you know, postpartum. So, and postpartum is one, you know, period of your life that you're likely going to experience hair loss because you have like a peak in estrogen and then there is a decline and then you're going to experience some shedding. And so we basically develop a hair serum that contains the same peptide that fights these zombie cells in the skin, but now fighting the zombie cells in our hair foliase. So it's pretty safe. It has beautiful results in terms of increasing hair density and hair thickness.
1:12:45It also improves your skin microbiome because our microbiome also changes with aging and improves your scalp health. And I think it's another area that we usually treat our skin to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, but we don't treat our scalp to prevent thinning and hair loss. That is likely going to happen at some point of your life. You know, at least like 70 to 80 % of, you know, people, men and women experience some hair thinning and hair loss throughout their lives. And I think having this proactive, more like preventative approach is one that we should start incorporating, but also can be used if you're already experiencing, you know, some time of shedding or hair thinning.
1:13:35We have seen, you know, great regrowth in terms of recovering that healthy, you know, hair growth cycle. And this is the same OS1 peptide that you were talking about earlier? I'm curious. So you've seen regrowth. Has it been quantified? Like how much hair is able to come back? And how quickly does it come back? So this usually takes longer hair. Hair loss is so lame like that. It takes so long to bring it back. It takes usually from three to six months. After six months from our clinical study, we saw 40 % increase in hair density and 40 % increase in hair thickness. So that's really significant and impressive because, yeah, the hair folio that was becoming thinner is now like 40 % thicker.
1:14:33So it is stronger. It's going to stay in that hair growth cycle for longer. And so we have from our studies, like really, I mean, strong quantitative results. We have really strong, you know, before and afters that obviously everyone wants to see. But I think really interesting to see that combating these zombie cells in our hair follicles is also a way to combat like hair loss and hair thinning. We typically, so in medicine, what the belief is currently is that once miniaturization occurs at the hair follicle, so the shaft is becoming thinner and thinner, that's irreversible. Are you saying that you guys actually have seen the hair become thicker again?
1:15:24Yes. It's hard to quantify exactly the same hair follicle. Right. Totally. But I would say that if you're starting the miniaturization phase, it's not completely like, you know, to the end yet, you can reverse that. So it always depends on the phase that you are. But what you don't want is that hair follicle to completely die. And so that you cannot recover. But if it's in the beginning of the miniaturization phase, you can still recover that hair follicle. That's so interesting. And is this, this is a serum, do you have to apply it a couple of times a day? Is it once a day? Yeah, usually we recommend it twice a day or at least once a day.
1:16:12It's a water-based serum, so it shouldn't, you know, make your scalp or your hair greasy. You can still style, you know, blow dry, whatever you like to do. But ideally, twice a day, morning and night, You can apply on a wet hair or a dry hair. But yeah, the consistency here is the most important thing. And consistency day and night, if possible, it makes it easy if you're like wet hair, dry hair, because I could just see that it being an easy part of the routine. And then give it at least six months to be able to really see the outcomes there. Yeah, which is pretty typical. I mean, anyone who has had a baby, as you were saying, in postpartum knows that at four to six months postpartum, your hair is going to fall out.
1:17:04And then it's going to be by the time hopefully your baby starts sleeping around 12 months, you start seeing your hair come back. And still, they don't always sleep. But I would imagine, you know, using this serum, it's helpful. But if you're still doing things like skipping sleep, smoking, not practicing stress reduction, that might be able to negate some of the effects? Yeah, 100%. Yeah, that will definitely impact. So in the end, we are always talking about like a holistic approach, right? And so we know that the stress, the lack of sleep will impact. But you can minimize. So, you know, there is obviously sometimes you can't tackle everything at the same time.
1:17:50But, you know, if you can add that layer of support to your scalp will help. You know, it could be better. Yes. If your internal body is helping. Yes. But I think I wouldn't not do it because you can't do everything at the same time. And I know that for certain hairstyles, like people don't wash their hair every day. Does that have an impact? Do you need to be washing your hair every day and applying the serum? Or is it something that, you know, if you have a particular hair type that you're like, I need to wash it every other day or I get it styled a certain way, I can't wash it for several days.
1:18:26Would that, you know, negate the effects or does the product build up? The product itself shouldn't build up. It's very light and should absorb really easily. I think if there is a buildup of, you know, oils and other, you know, dirt, maybe of like the day-to-day that can impact the absorption of the product so obviously a clean scalp will absorb better uh but i yeah i think you know i wash my hair every other day and i still wear it every day and and i think that's totally fine and are you using it preventively i use that's a very personal question i apologize that's too personal like the you know male female uh pattern hair loss in running my family so i know you know how impactful you know in our mental health and you know in many ways hair can be to you absolutely yeah when you start like seeing your parts like showing, it definitely has an impact.
1:19:30So I use both, you know, I actually want to reverse. And so I do other things. I do the hair light therapy. Sometimes I do the PRPs. And so I'm trying everything because I'm on that phase of, you know, trying to preserve and, you know, regrow as much as possible because I already feel like the thinning and that's not fun. No, no, for sure. I have hypothyroidism. I remember when, before I was diagnosed, losing my hair and just like clumps of it coming out. And it is, until you've gone through it, you don't understand how distressing it is on a mental health level. For people who know they have, you know, family, familial hair loss, or, you know, they're they're just like, I want to keep my hair for as long as possible, as luscious as possible.
1:20:27When should they consider using this as a preventative measure, this peptide? Yeah. I think if they have this androgenic-related baldness in their family, I would start as early as their 20s. If they don't have and they would just want to prevent, I would probably start in my 30s. I wish I had this product when I was in my 30s because I think it would be easier to maintain my hair. But if you have in your genetics, I would start probably in your 20s. And I know that some people can start even, you know, getting bald around your 20s. So that's one thing that the earlier the better if you have in your family.
1:21:14Yeah, I think that's a good thing for listeners to consider. I'm also curious, are there things that people are doing unknowingly that's maybe damaging their hair or, you know, can be having a negative impact? I mean, other than like the stress, the sleep, some of the things that we've talked about. Yeah, definitely. You need to be careful with like the chemicals, the bleaching of your hair, how, you know, how are you dyeing your hair, those chemicals that go into your scalp. they can definitely impact your scalp microbiome, your hair follicles. So I would be aware of that. I would be aware also of sun exposure on your scalp because obviously if your scalp is getting damaged and sunburned, that's also going to impact the aging of your scalp and consequently your hair follicles.
1:22:16And as always, like the products that you wash your hair, you clean your hair, you need, ideally they would be, you know, they would contain like safe ingredients because otherwise you're causing more irritation in your scalp, more redness, and that's all contributing to that, you know, aging process, as we know. You've brought up the skin microbiome, the scalp microbiome. What do you think people should know about that? I think people should know that our skin, our scalp, our gut. We have these microbes and, you know, bacteria, fungi that are important to maintain the health of our bodies. And, you know, they produce certain metabolites.
1:22:59They protect, you know, our skin. They help even like, obviously in our gut, like metabolizing, you know, our food and absorbing the nutrients. So maintaining that microbiome like healthy in a homeostasis state's really really important and when that microbiome is disrupted the gut like we have leaky gut you know in our skin you can have a lot of things related to you know either eczema or psoriasis or you can have acne that's also dysregulation It could be hormonal as well, but it could manifest if your microbiome is dysregulated. And your scalp, you can have like an itchy scalp, a flaky scalp, and dandruff.
1:23:50And all of those things can be associated with like an unhealthy and unbalanced microbiome. So protecting that microbiome basically means like not using things that are stripping away all of your good, you know, bacteria. So it can be, you can't have like, you can't use like soaps or detergents that are really stripping that good bacteria and use products. There are products, obviously, you know, probiotics for the gut, but they are like in our scalp serum, we have like a prebiotic for the scalp as well that helps like nurture that microbiome. So it will continue to, you know, perform at its best.
1:24:33That's so interesting. Of course, I'm familiar with prebiotics. And for my audience, I will link to the gut health episode where I talked all about prebiotics internally, how they feed those critters that grow in your gut. And it's one of the best things that you can do for microbial diversity. I mean, everybody's always looking at like, how do we eradicate things? And why do I have this dysbiosis? And we need to be consuming prebiotics. But the concept of actually putting prebiotics on your scalp is totally new to me. Can you say more about that? Yeah. So basically, our scalp microbiome can change with aging.
1:25:08and there are ways that you can help like shift that microbiome to a healthier one. So you can support the growth of the good bacteria that will support the growth of your hair follicles and you can decrease the growth of the bad bacteria that is associated with hair loss. So there are ways that you can do this with prebiotics, so nurturing the right bacterias and when you have the right bacterias, usually they prevent the growth of the bad bacteria and the same with fungi. A lot of ingredients can help like modulating that microbiome in a way that you have the right ones there that are supportive to your scalp health.
1:25:58And that's one thing that impacts not only, again, your scalp, but obviously your hair growth. Yeah, that I think probably is a big light bulb moment for a lot of people who struggle with, you know, fungus on their scalp. It's something that's really common. Nobody wants to talk about it because it's really shameful. And I think this is going to be one of those big breakthrough moments for people as well, hearing that like there are actual ways to cultivate the microbiome of your scalp because we also know in the gut, when we have fungal overgrowth in the vagina, when we have fungal overgrowth, we have to cultivate the good bacteria if we want to prevent that from reoccurring.
1:26:42So that is absolutely fascinating. We'll link to all of the products that we've discussed today, including that scalp serum, because I know people are definitely going to be, I can already see them in the comments, like give me the link to that. But I wanted to finish up by asking you if you could correct one major misconception women have about skin aging, what would that be? First of all, skin aging and like having your best skin will mean different things for, you know, every person. I think we all should look for that skin that make us feel confident, that make us feel good. and a healthy skin usually is halfway there.
1:27:25Like a healthy skin is a good looking skin, is a skin that is telling you that your body is healthy. And obviously you can go further if you want to do the injectables and the Botox. But I think to me, as I age, I try to optimize my skin in a way that I'll feel and look my best. But I'm not after, you know, that the flawless and some people are after that the glass skin that's like a completely perfect skin. I'm looking for my best skin that I still feel, you know, myself. but not in a way that I could, you know, be doing too much to my skin in a way that I'm, you know, kind of disrupting, you know, what my skin is supposed to be and to mean for my body.
1:28:24So in the end, I think about aging skin is something that we are optimizing and we shouldn't necessarily fight for like that 20 year old skin again. But like embrace that, you know, even some lines, you know, if they're an expression of the memories and the laughs that you had throughout your life, that's my philosophy. I still would do, you know, a lot of things to look, you know, at my best, but I think I try to respect that balance. And so that's my philosophy. I think in the end, like less is more. And there is still ways that you can achieve that great look and, you know, prioritizing health.
1:29:08I think health, you know, should always come first. That's such a refreshing message, I think, for women to hear, especially in the age of the Kardashians. No shade to them. I am all about whatever makes you happy and how you want to live your life. I support you in making your decisions. And yet I think sometimes when we see radical facelifts and all of these procedures, women feel like there's a new bar, a new hurdle that they have to be leaping over. And so to hear a message from a scientist who has a skincare line saying that, you know, embracing the natural process, but nourishing your skin so that it can have the best integrity, the best of health is just a beautiful, beautiful way to end this conversation.
1:29:54So I appreciate you sharing your expertise for all of these aha moments that I think our listeners are going to really appreciate and for the work that you're doing to transform skincare for women for the better. Well, thank you, Jalene. Yeah, this was a wonderful conversation. Thanks for allowing me to share a little bit with your community and thanks for all that you do. I think you are, you know, obviously a beacon of like so much great information and inspiration for a lot out there. Oh, well, thank you. That refresh you've been putting off until the right deal came along? It's here. Wayfair's Black Friday in July sale is happening now so you can finally get the style you've been waiting for for less.
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From the publisher
Interested in trying OneSkin for yourself Visit http://oneskin.co/BRIGHTEN and use code BRIGHTEN for 15% off your first purchase.
Discover the best skincare products for aging skin and the science behind peptides that target “zombie cells” to support hair growth and skin longevity. View full show notes and all links at
https://drbrighten.com/podcasts/oneskin/.
Chapters — Key Moments
00:00 — Episode Trailer (Skin Aging Control)
01:24 — Show Welcome
02:12 — Topical Retinol & Inflammation
07:49 — How to Cycle Retinol Safely
10:48 — Zombie (Senescent) Cells Explained
14:28 — What Are Peptides?
16:55 — Not All Peptides Are Equal—OS01
17:19 — OS-01: Validated Results
22:09 — OneSkin Benefits Over Time
23:56 — OneSkin Review of Outcomes
25:37 — Menopause-Focused SkinCare
27:23 — How to Preserve Collagen
29:28 — Lowering Systemic Inflammation (Cytokines)
32:09 — Skin Fragility With Age
37:16 — Intrinsic vs. Extrinsic Aging
39:54 — Blue Light Damages Skin
40:58 — Best Antioxidants for Skin Health
43:45 — Smart Sun Exposure Guidelines
47:50 — Can You Reverse Sun Damage?
50:03 — Best Skincare Routine for Over 50
54:13 — Eye Cream Clinical Trial Results
55:58 — Best Skincare in Your 20s
57:13 — Pregnancy & Melasma Treatment
59:53 — Hidden Causes of Skin Aging
01:06:55 — Stress and Hair Loss
01:10:35 — How to Improve Hair Density & Thickness
01:15:18 — How to Regrow Hair
01:18:25 — Scalp Microbiome Health
01:23:51 — Biggest Skin-Aging Misconception
01:27:16 — Episode Outro
Dr. Brighten’s OneSkin Review
I always want to know if a product actually delivers on its promises before recommending it to my community. I tried OneSkin’s OS-01 peptide moisturizer and eye cream myself, and I was impressed. As someone with sensitive skin, I’m cautious with new products, but I noticed the eye cream made a real difference during a hectic back-to-school week when my sleep was lacking. My skin looked more hydrated and less tired than I felt.
What stood out most to me is that OneSkin’s peptide technology isn’t just about appearance—it’s about skin health and resilience. That’s what makes it different from many other products I’ve tested over the years.
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