Gentleman's Journal - Talking Watches

21:22You won't be able to buy one if you're going to flip it straight away. So they're probably really, really strict about it.

21:27Justin Hast:I think he's making like 50 to 70 watches a year total or something like that. And at the end of the day, we've only seen one or two pop up at auction. And that's the level. That's the level. And the reason I say that's approachable is that we're talking about Chronograph, which has an in-house caliber, but entirely designed, developed, delivered inside a 38mm case that is thin. Yeah. That's all proprietary. Almost all of it made in-house by a guy that's got a team of maybe 30, 40 people in old town Geneva. He is like the one that everyone looks up to. Insane. Insane. And then we've had Breitling just this week launch, because Breitling now have Universal, Genève and Galet as a group.

22:01Which they're launching on Monday. No, Universal, Genève literally yesterday morning.

22:06Justin Hast:So they're coming out quick and fast ahead of next week. There's so many. I got the press release. There is like so much there. So much stuff. So much stuff. It's a whole brand coming at you. And so they're trying to capture some oxygen ahead of them. What's the price point on? They're quite punchy. They're quite punchy. They are. Yeah. They've come out with shaped like a sort of a rectangular shape. What does it start at? The pole router. So the way it's positioned is that we have Galay at the very bottom of the group. So 2 ,000 to say 5 ,000 euro. then we've got the Breitling category maybe 6 to 15 and then Universal's priced above that so we're talking high teams are they trying to grow a group there?

22:47are they trying to make that? so at Dubai Watchweek last year he's a shareholder as well now isn't he? I gather he was from the start yeah but that's why he left Richemont I believe yeah yeah he put a lot of his own money into it I think Johan Rupert said he's becoming an entrepreneur that's why he left it's called House of Brands now

23:03Justin Hast:they're calling it House of Brands so you've got those three there House of Brands. They need to come up. What are the three brands? So Gale, which is an old French sort of, you know, entry-level sportif brand. And it's an existing brand? It's defunct. Okay, so they're bringing it back to life. They brought it back to life. Then you've got Breitling, and then you've got Universal. And Universal, that was defunct as well. That was. It was still running in Asia. I think in Hong Kong there was someone that owned it, and there was a bidding war that was going on. A few other people had interest in it, and ultimately George Cohen got it.

23:34Justin Hast:but they've got one icon which is the pole routing designed by Gerald Genta so this was and this was something SAS pilots wore to fly from like Scandinavia to wherever they were Gerald Genta just for our non-watch list I know about Gerald Genta do you? I can tell you I can tell you how he did the design for the AP Royal Oak in 24 hours there you go before the watch show in 1972 I want to say when was Norse on the back of a napkin the Norse on the back of a napkin when was Norse on the back of a napkin when was Norse on the back of a napkin when was Norse on the back of a napkin But he did the design probably in 75.

24:06Justin Hast:Thank you. And now there's a brand. Where was that nugget? It's in there. It's all in there. That's pretty good. If I've written about it, it's usually somewhere in the back of the head. Okay. But I just don't retain it on the tip of my tongue. There's also a brand now named after him. Yeah, which looks really interesting. LVMH. It's not what I'd expect it to be. Let's get on to LVMH. LVMH, yeah, beautiful. So I'm legitimately very, very excited about Borgary. Okay. I don't know anything. I don't know. I don't know anything. I think you're lying. I don't know anything. But the Octo Finissimo has become, you know, in a fairly short period of time, it's set loads of records for thinness, for complication.

24:44Justin Hast:And it is a really special piece of design that I don't think gets the love it deserves. It's an amazing watch to wear. But the issue is, it's a big watch in terms of size. Yeah, yeah, yeah. At 40 millimeters, with the cascaded case itself and the bracelet, it wears more like a 42 mil and it's so flat that it can be a bit a bit awkward at times people want a smaller version of that now if they can come out with i feel like it might be coming a legitimately small for the case yeah with a few add-ons you know in a dream world we'd have a screw down crown technically very difficult in that thinness bracelet with a slight adjustment on it because when you're in in the heat whatever your wrist swells a little bit so you want a little bit of give but if it can deliver something that is approachable price point wise as well so they don't go bonkers with the price point.

25:33Justin Hast:That legitimately could be a smash hit. Like, I'll call it now, it could be a smash hit. Could even be the star of the show. Okay. But then you've got Gerald Genta and you've got Daniel Roth that are in the LVMH group as well. Are they at the show? They're not. I think they're actually showing, I might be wrong, but I think they're at a hotel. Okay. Basically because they're a lot smaller. They're a lot smaller than Bulgari. They're beautiful, those two brands. Daniel Roth, absolutely gorgeous. Daniel Roth's there, I look at and I get the press release through and I'm like, that's a really beautiful watch.

26:00Wait till you see one in person,

26:01Justin Hast:in person, because they are legitimately... And they're not... Do you know how many of those they're producing? Very few. And I spoke to them and asked them for it. I only asked because I... And who's in charge of that? Jean Arnaud. It's him as well. Jean Arnaud, who is, for those who aren't aware, the Arnaud family, owners of Albemite... Owners of everything. Owners of everything. You know, how many brands? I don't know. 70, 80, 90 brands more. And he's super young and super impressive. He's a very, very nice man as well. I chat with him a fair whack on DMs. He's very engaging. He wants to connect with the community.

26:32Justin Hast:He's very open for a guy that, you know, he's a collector at heart. And I think he sets parameters for himself because, of course, he's the richest, you know, he's the son of the richest man in the world. He is the youngest of the family. But he sets parameters in the sense that he did a collecting video recently where he talked about his collection. And he's legitimately excited about watch collecting. And you can tell that through... It's authentic. It's authentic. You can see that through the way he's delivered Daniel Roth. I think collectors out there are going bonkers for Daniel Roth. Yeah.

27:00Justin Hast:For good reason. The product's finishing, the movement finishing is shaped to the case, which has this beautiful double ellipse case shape. Unlike anything else out there. Yeah. The hand work on it is... So that would be a brand that keeps going up. I think that's a future brand to keep an eye on. Now, the ones in the LVH brands that don't seem to be doing that. Gerald Genta. Darryl say Tac, Tag and... Tag and Zenith. Tac, Zenith. And Hublot as well. And Hublot. Yeah. I mean, look, I personally, you know, Hublot's not my aesthetic. I think they know their client very well. I'm not necessarily buzzing about seeing what they're launching, but I'm very excited about Zenith.

27:37Justin Hast:GFGA watch they'd launched last year. Beautiful, beautiful dress watch. They've got so much history. The challenge with Zenith is that they are in many ways, they have an iconic movement in the El Primero, but they don't necessarily have an absolute smash hit global icon in a model. The Chronomaster Sport is a really lovely watch. And if you like that aesthetic, the sort of Rolex Daytona aesthetic, It has its own vibe, and the case shape sits beautifully, and the bracelet's lovely, the movement's amazing. But the GFGA, as I say, that was a standout watch last year. So I expect to see extensions on the GFGA, which is a multi...

28:11Justin Hast:It's got a stone dial, but lots of different finishing on the dial, hand-finished, sort of honoring their founder. Beautiful, absolutely beautiful. And Tag, do you know anything? Tag with the Formula One watch, the F1 watch, that was sort of a big moment for them in recent years. New CEO, he's come in. because it's all happened quite she's come in recently as she was head of marketing i think for the u.s um probably not you know the way the watch world works is you can affect change generally in it you know two three years down the line yeah the systems are so far forward facing that it just doesn't allow for massive change immediately but i think tag has a challenge on its hand yeah i feel like they slightly forgot their i don't know i always thought tag was just the great entry level when you're 21.

28:55And I think that was where it was. And they did, they do have those amazing icons like Xenna and people like that. But I just feel like they slightly forgot that

29:05Justin Hast:at some point. Who's doing a really good job with this now? I think Cartier knows itself really well and is delivering on that. But if you look at Panrai, for example, I think Panrai is doing a great job, in my mind, of going back to basics. So it's not trying to do everything for everyone. And like, you know, Joe, you speak about brands all the time. The great brands, the ones we connect with, the ones we love, do what they do and they dial that up. And they're not focused on necessarily the market shifts or the way the market's moving. They are saying, let's be more of what we are and let's go back to basics.

29:34Justin Hast:Keep going back to basics, like the likes of Leica, the likes of Ramo, the likes of Porsche. We love these brands because they do what they do and they do what they do really well. Panerai is big. I don't want to see a smaller Panerai. I want to see them do what they do and just lock that in. I want to be, that's my go-to for a sexy, elegant, Italian, you know, Sprezzatura. And they're so distinctive. So distinctive. You can see one from Marlowe. Love it, love it, love it. Do that, do that, because that's what I'll walk in the door to get, and that's what I'll be proud to wear down on the Amalfi Coast or whatever.

30:02Justin Hast:And I think Tag has tried maybe over the years to deviate a bit too much, to be too much to everyone. We don't want that, brand-wise, I think, as consumers. That's my sense. And then, so let's just, we're nearly there, we're going around the wall. Right, Rolex, Tudor, and then... So anniversaries, we should say, so So Tudor, so Tudor has a hundred year anniversary coming out. So that'll be really exciting. Are you a fan of Tudor? I'm a fan of Tudor. Yeah, I'm a fan of Tudor. Yeah, yeah. I call it the, actually I shouldn't say that, but I call it, I, I, I. It's no longer the little brother of Rolex.

30:31I call it the smart man's Rolex because, you know, I, I, I, yeah, again, I probably shouldn't say this, but I feel like, and again, the editor's shaking their head. No, but you know, like, I think Rolex is, is slightly like, again, we're in, we're in the center of London next door to Mayfair. so this is not like a widely thing but there are you know that you see them a lot and that's why when i see a tudor i'm always like hey that you've got a tudor yeah and i mean you you bought a really lovely vintage yeah it's that last year you bought that so the snowflake yeah a beautiful 17 but i just feel like i just feel like i just feel like their pricing's right the the shapes classic yeah um i actually went with them to saudi at the beginning of the year to the launch of the ranger which was an amazing trip um but i just rock solid build quality insane value for money

31:21Justin Hast:yeah and and and an unpretentious like vibe unpretentious as well whereas whereas their sister brand rolex i just i mean it immediately says something about you yeah um well that's almost victims of their own success i feel like they i feel like but they they don't i feel like they don't really care i would almost no no but i just don't feel like i don't i just don't think they care and you know what they've done in the numbers if the numbers are accurate in this report they've only increased their market share so they are now like a massive percentage of the market into such an extent that many commentators would not even consider them to be a watch brand at this point because they are separate from the market they are i mean they're just they are they are a luxury conglomerate but they're not a conglomerate because they're a single brand but yeah they're actually a non-profit yeah and they're structuring i love telling people that because people people outside the watch world are just like so shocked when you say yeah so i should say i should say i I should say that they do a lot of amazing work.

32:16Justin Hast:They do a lot of amazing work. I've heard this from non-influenced individuals who have no reason to say otherwise. In Geneva, they do amazing hospital. They build things. They don't even put their name to it. They just get on with doing amazing work. They do a lot of work for the environment. They do support ambassadors who do great work. They are just... Their ambassadors are amazing. I mean, it's a bit of like, I always think when they call it, they don't call it ambassadors, what do they call it? Testimonies. Testimonies. Testimonies, but like, it's kind of funny. like you watch you watch some of these sports guys who've been an ambassador for this watch band for ages suddenly like they retire and then Rolex will say can you come on and be it and it's like they just drop the other guy straight away it's almost like a gold medal standard of how good you are as a sportsman you know because you know like if you think about it Fedra, Rolex you just associate these and now you've got like Alcatraz Alcatraz Alcaraz Alcaraz he's not escaped he's not escaped from Alcatraz and you know straight away you start to associate these people with which is why they are so powerful I guess.

33:17Justin Hast:You can't knock the brand and it's just incredible it's maybe not a brand, I've never bought one, I've never owned one. Have you never? I've never owned one, I've actually never I just think that's why I like Tudor because I think it's similar to you know the manufacturing quality is there Hello and just a quick reminder about the Gentleman's Journal Clubhouse it's our membership package which unlocks a whole host of benefits across the world of Gentleman's Journal, including two magazine issues per year, full access to all our pay-award content, membership invites to exclusive events, and a weekly newsletter direct to your inbox.

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34:03Justin Hast:Years ago, I'd got on this insane, and people watching, and this was a jolly, my wife was absolutely right, but I went to Wentworth, I played golf in the Pro-Am before the BMW Championship, with Rolex years ago, which I was incredibly grateful for. And I played with Matt Fitzpatrick, who's now sort of a proper global. He'd only just signed with Rolex. And I was also with, in my group, I was with the head of Rolex sponsorship for golf globally, who played off plus four or something. And it was just the most insane day because there was a thousand people still watching the pro-am. And I had a few howlers.

34:34Justin Hasford.

34:35Justin Hast:I was there. I actually shot an eagle on my first. Yeah, but then I fell off the cliff afterwards. But ultimately, the head of Rolex ambassadorship, sponsorship globally, he was an interesting guy. Pascal Grisor was his name. And he's in charge of everything. Global, global, global. Wow. And he just said, all I care about, he said, all I care about is I want to see that trophy in their hands and a Rolex on their wrist. And that image, that image will live on way longer than we're here. That image will be here for centuries longer than we're here. And that's all I care about. And so. So why did they give up the Formula One?

35:06Justin Hast:That's the other. They didn't, I gather. So I gather what happened was LVH, we can offer the full package. So they're much more, they are obviously engaged in their drinks and their food and other things. So they're coming in and offering everything, whereas Rolex, obviously not. And they've gone into SailGP alternatively. So let's see how that goes. But other notable things we should touch on is the Oyster anniversary. It's the Oyster case anniversary, which will be really interesting. So people thinking there might be an Oyster perpetual coming from Rolex. The Le Mans series is reaching FIFA pitch.

35:38Justin Hast:That's a watch that's been going bonkers. We've seen it in yellow gold. We've seen it in yellow. We've seen it in white gold. We may see it in some other execution this year. There's always the hype on that first day. And I'm in there at 9.30. I'm literally in there at 9.30 on Tuesday morning. Despite the fact that by mistake, and I totally, I legitimately need this, I did publish the Le Mans on the first year that it came out without recognizing it. This is how bad my knowledge on Rolex actually even is. This Daytona popped up on the tray, shot a photo of it, and it went absolutely meltdown because I leaked it.

36:14Justin Hast:And then no longer later on in the day, they couldn't show anyone else. A Bible account I heard from friends on the day that they didn't show anyone else. But I didn't realize what the hell I was looking at because the subtlety is that the sub-dials are the old Paul Newman sub-dials. So there's a slight variation on the sub-dials. But for all intents and purposes, it looked like a Daytona. And I didn't know what I was looking for. I was just doing a video of the tray. Next minute, this thing goes bonkers. It's been like, hold on. I never heard anything about it, and they've kindly invited me back.

36:37Maybe. So I was delighted. Maybe you were there. Maybe you were porn. Maybe you were. Maybe you were. I don't even publish Rolex.

36:45Justin Hast:The audience doesn't even expect to see Rolex from me because I never published. But to one reason, I went absolutely bonkers. To the point I've never had a post go like it. I didn't know what to do. What does that mean, bonkers for you? I mean, we're talking within. Yeah, within. thousands and thousands of comments by the end of the day shared thousands of times Do you get that? No Unfortunately it doesn't happen It doesn't happen to me for God's sake just to be clear That's the power of Rolex Exactly so I'm excited and this year is going to be really exciting I'm absolutely excited to share them.

37:16Justin Hast:So this is the first time you've been back since that? No I came back last year and I didn't know if I'd get the invite and thank you to the wonderful team in London who've supported me and coming back again but I'll be back in their first appointment on Tuesday morning Parmigiani, we should touch on Parmigiani because they are an amazingly elegant brand I think their stuff they're producing is beautiful and they used to just for the people who don't know explain the brand so they're owned actually by the Sandoz family very big Spanish billionaire family they're part owners of the Valsher Caliber manufacturer which is a movement maker that makes for Richelieu and for Corum AP, they've got huge kudos Their movements are beautiful.

37:57Justin Hast:They're in Hermes watches and Parmigiani watches, of course. And they're really highly regarded. But the elegance of what the new CEO has brought in, this guy called Guido Torini. He's the new CEO there as of a few years ago. And he's a very elegant Italian man who came from Bulgari. And he's brought the case profiles down. There's the Tonda PF, which is their sports model. Very, very elegant. Very minimal. Hand gear shade dials, micro rotor movements. I haven't actually worn it on the wrist. Gorgeous. Absolutely gorgeous. The bracelet is absolutely butter soft. Yeah, that's what I was wondering.

38:28Stunning.

38:29Justin Hast:Highly recommend, again, anyone who's got a chance to get a hands-on with a Parmigiani, got to do it. And then you've got the Toric, which is the one the King wears. So the King, our King, wears a Parmigiani Toric watch. Does he? Yeah, I know. He's very loyal to that watch, and he's always worn it. He wears it all the time. Is that the only watch he wears? Pretty much. I know he's got more from a friend of mine who works alongside him. He does have a few. Someone sacked here, I think. What's your friend's name? He's got a few, the king's got a few watches. Quite a few watches and he's gifted and he's gifted.

38:59Justin Hast:And so interestingly enough - The queen used to have a Vacheron. In cloisters, I don't know the ins and outs of this, but there's a jeweler that's in the ski resort and it's the only business outside of the UK to have the Royal Warrant. So it has a Royal Warrant. There he goes. And so - That is good. Yeah. And that's because he buys his watches from that. Or he might have just needed to get his watch fixed when he was there. They were like, we'll have that. Yeah. there are gifts as i understand it there are a lot of gifts yeah pocket watches i think he's i reckon they've got a pretty that would be a cool exhibition wouldn't it just the royal watches but he's very partial to that watch and he basically always wears it very elegant tiered case dress watch i can see very elegant it's a really beautiful it's a beautiful watch right so we have gone through any i before we're about to get on to swatch who are not at the fair which we'll come on to um any you just from the independence any any of those independents that you want to talk about quickly?

39:55Justin Hast:I mean, Ressence is a brand that, you know, it's unlike any other out there. I mean, that's why I like it. It's one, it makes a pit smile on your face. Two, it is like, you can't say they've copied anyone. No, no. Which is quite rare. It's entirely proprietary to them. It's a sort of 3D, the sub-dials move on the dial, the hands never cross. It's a 3D movement, really interesting. They're worth checking out. But there are so many, honestly, we could go on our board, just the independents. Well, let's go on Swatch, who aren't there. Amiga's last week? Constellation came out from Amiga last week.

40:32Justin Hast:They actually dropped out of the top five on that list. So they've been right up against it. So they're at number six. I think they've even dropped further. I think they might be seven or eight now. So it's been quite catastrophic for, again, but interestingly enough, Swatch did come out, along with Tudor, interestingly, to say that those numbers weren't correct. So they pushed back against Morgan Stanley, and the editor of that particular publication. Has gone. So it's now quite a contentious issue. He's gone and fired. He should go. He's a controversial, he's a divisive figure, I guess. Who is he?

41:04Justin Hast:He's in the industry, he's a consultant within the industry. But he works for the bank or is he works? I think he's independent. Okay. Quote, unquote, independent. Yeah. But I don't know, I don't know. I did, I, look, you're obviously in the watch world completely. I'm on the, I would say, outskirts of it. But I did notice that on Instagram, like people are re-gramming this thing. And it's amazing how people go. I mean, I guess if you are doing research like that and people come out and say these numbers are wrong, it's pretty damning. Yes, and Swatch did do that, and so did Tudor. And to think Rolex slash Tudor did that is insane because they never speak publicly about anything.

41:36They did it.

41:37Justin Hast:At the end of the day, Breguet has been on an upward trajectory. You know, Breguet's pre-owned prices, near vintage. That brand is like just waiting to explode. And now they've got a new CEO in there from Omega, a guy called Gregory Kissling, who's a product guy. We test him out on his Breguet history. Yeah, let me tell you about Breguet. Okay, who's famous that wore Breguet, who's English? I'm going to answer that question in a moment. Before that, my factoid on Breguet. Okay. Is it the first something, isn't it? So he developed, so Abraham Leung Breguet himself, he developed the tourbillon. There we go.

42:14There was something. And I think it is the oldest watch brand in. Vacheron is the oldest continuous and Breguet

42:23Justin Hast:So that's actually Blompan Blompan's older So not continuous production Blompan's older than Breguet How old is Blompan? 17 It's on their thing 17 I don't want to 1755 is Vacheron actually So it's got to be before Wow And Breguet But Breguet like Winston Churchill by the way Had a Breguet pocket watch And Louis um the king of france but he was the watchmaker for the the french okay well aristocracy and you went to the relaunch didn't you yeah in in paris yeah i did so just like when we say it's bubbling it's just because it's got it has the most amazing history it has that it's got it's got credentials going back to the aesthetics it's got the it's got the icon vibes all the way through the products You've got the CoinEdge case.

43:17Justin Hast:You've got Breguet numerals. It's a coin that we use for Breguet numerals on every watch from every brand. So they've got lots of Breguet over coil. You know, the finishing is absolutely stunning. They've got this sort of engine-turned guilloche dials, which are very much their own thing. The brand, you know, has benefited from the secondary market because there's been real push into people getting into their new vintage stuff. I mean, I had a friend the other day turn around and he was wearing Breguet. And I think he bought it for a bargain. and I just suddenly said, again, he's not into watches.

43:49Justin Hast:The quality of the product is not reflective. So the price is what you pay, value is what you get. The price you pay in the secondary market, you're getting way more value than the cost. And it's now got a new CEO coming. I've heard he's quite young. Yeah, he's a young, dynamic guy. Dynamic. Yeah, very dynamic, product focused. So you think it's going to be really interesting? Really good, yes. We saw some great 250th anniversary last year. So 250 years, quite amazing to think it's been around that long. but that was last year and then so the continuation this year is we saw some tradition models that have been just slightly modernized roman numerals have gone breguin numerals are in quick change straps lots of good stuff yeah they're just one to watch they're just they've got so much history they've got the icon um notes in design that can be it's under i just but i feel like a lot of this watch i would go blonde power as well like it's a great brand great brand the villaray beautiful the 50 fathoms two icons i think they can continue to work on yeah they did That's the thing.

44:45You're just sitting there going, why is this brand not doing 10 times? And the Dive Watch with Bonpant, again, the credentials there are second to none.

44:52Justin Hast:Arguably the first. I mean, they were literally... I don't know. Can you say that? 1952, 1953 was the era of the Submariner and the 50 Fathoms. And I would argue that maybe the 50 Fathoms lineage is even more interesting. You know, it's got such interesting storytelling around it. It's also just cooler Dive Watch to have than... Yeah, weight... It's less expected. It's a curved dial. What's that called? The bezel's much thicker as well. It's got a bit more of a punchy presence to it. And it's an awful lot more unexpected. It is a little bit pricier than a Submariner. But worth it. At retail. But, yeah, I'm a big fan.

45:27Justin Hast:I really like Blanc Pan. Lovely brand. I love the Swatch Blanc Pan. Yeah, I know. Those ones are very cool. The only thing about the Swatch Blanc Pan, you can't open the case about it. And I think you should be honest. The scuba, the scuba. I don't know. Why? It's fun. It's fun. No, no, it's fun. And it's basically like, I always think of it like, I've seen quite a lot of wealthy people wearing them on their summer holidays. It's like a flex watch. Yeah, it is. It's fun. It's cool. And then Amiga. So let's finish with Amiga. The big brand in Swatch. I think it is a challenging time. You know, they've had issues.

46:00Justin Hast:They've had... But they seem like the last bit of products seem pretty good. Really, I mean, you know, the Constellation, funny enough, was the first watch that ever got me into watches. So my grandfather in South Africa had one watch. It was an Amiga Constellation. It wasn't the Pi Panda that we've just seen reissued, but it was a constellation. And that, again, was Gerald Genta, designed by Gerald Genta. And it's just gorgeous. And it's the watch that got me into this whole thing. And so they've got lots to play with. I think the issue is they've maybe just got too many SKUs. They've just got too many products.

46:29Justin Hast:People sometimes get a bit confused. But at the end of the day, you know, Bond is around the corner. You know, that's always a huge thing. Bond, Prince William. Prince William, the Olympics have just happened. Prince William wears an Amiga that Diana gave him. Wow. Yeah. So it's pretty emotional story. Great. And he wears anywhere. He like the king. It's rarely off his wrist, rarely off his wrist. So they've got two of like the most iconic ambassadors you could want there. So I think the future is bright for them. I think they're just navigating some headwinds. Right. The future is bright, I think.

47:00Justin Hast:Yeah. And it should be because at the end of the day, some of these absolute stalwarts, you know, the names that we all know and aspire to when they're doing well, the whole industry doing well. I look at Breguet, we all want Breguet to do really well because that's so important. Omega absolutely alongside Rolex. And as I say, it was the watch that got me into this. So huge, really excited about what they're, but they're not going to be launching anything at the show. They're not, yeah. So now I know that you've got to go home because otherwise your wife knows you're on a jolly next week. So you've got to run out.

47:32But let's just, a few quickfire questions to you. Brand to watch this year. Have you picked one brand that you're like most interested to see what's happening in your... Bvlgari.

47:42Justin Hast:don't ever ever let the name on the dial confuse you about the fact that they are absolutely now investing in amazing complicated watch making they've got huge manufacturing facilities now and they're just super super interesting and really elegant really elegant brand new watch if money was no new watch you would buy right now forgetting what's coming out next week just on there and vintage watch that you got your eye on Oh, God. Well, you just bought one. So, I mean, next vintage one. Vintage one, yeah. So, as I said earlier, I've never had a Rolex before, but there is one particular model. So, it's the anniversary of the Milgauss this year as well as a model.

48:20A beautiful watch.

48:21Justin Hast:There's a 38mm. I think they're like the understated. Yeah, they are. And they go really well with a suit as well. I just think they look great with a suit. There's a reference called 1019. Okay. Very simple, very elegant. 38mm case, so a tad smaller. Yeah. That watch is absolutely wonderful. So, that's my vintage pick. and I'm eyeing one of those up. Okay. And I'm just wondering whether I could muster it just emotionally and financially. Yeah. I know for sure financially not, but that's a side note. So 1019 mil gas. As far as a new watch now that I'm really thinking about, I think there is an argument.

48:55Justin Hast:Oh, this is Daniel Roth. Okay, really? Ultra plat, extra thin, the extra thin Daniel Roth. There's a real case to be argued and I'm always for going for the original model over the new one. But in that instance, The original movements were nowhere near as nice as the new ones. And I think the new ones are just over delivering. You think the new ones really are that special? That much better. The case has been slightly improved. And just the build quality. I think this is the thing. I like vintage inherently. But in day-to-day life, you've got to look at the way you live with these things. You want to be able to jump in the pool with it.

49:27Justin Hast:You want to get stuck in with them. Vintage watches and neo-vintage watches. I mean, this is a watch from the 70s. I wouldn't feel comfortable thrashing this thing around. whereas give me a modern modern manufacturing levels are such that they will allow you to do all those things. So that's the trade-off you're not missing out by going modern on Daniel Roth, that's all I'll say Amazing, and now that you've sold your Saab 900 I haven't sold it, I'm going to put it on sale And then what watch are you going to buy with the money that you make from that? Come on, any choice Well my father wears a Cartier and I think one of the most elegant watch in the world is a Cartier tank on a brown alligator strap and gold yeah he's got a Cartier Santos yeah I think you're gonna go for that if Rachel gets me a wedding present which I don't think people do does she listen to this podcast she might listen to this episode then that's what I'd love I think that's very very chic I don't know I've got my eye on some like yeah i said i really want to get a tudor yeah and i i also an hermes i really the ho8 model from i think and also absolutely amazing some of those old hermes is a very cool well the new ones that am i right saying that's all their own manufacturer well actually the ho8 that's a valshire movement so the same as parmigiani but the ho8 is a sports watch you have one don't you did you have one i know i had i borrowed one for a bit yeah with the orange strap orange strap which I just kill a summer kill a summer watch amazing and it'll also like it's kind of understated as well someone said to me like don't get that it's a fashion brand doing a watch I was like I think you need to look at shapes proprietary the the numerals are proprietary they literally had them designed for the watch the movement is is for the watch um totally wrong but I think actually Joe like there are some cornerstone models in the watch world I would throw in the Langer one as a Cornerstone, the Royal Oak and the Tank.

51:23Justin Hast:Those are a few that absolutely should be in the collection. You cannot go wrong. I don't have a Tank either yet, but that's one on the agenda for down the line. Do you have a Royal Oak? I've got a mid-size, a 36mm Day-Date Moon. Gorgeous from the 1980s, mid-1980s, Day-Date Moon phase. They call it the owl. Slightly smaller. No, no, off-white. Off-white. That's cool. It's that size. That size. as a final insider pick. You like change. I do, I do. I shop and change. At the end of the day, I don't have the money to really play, you know. With the big guys. With the big boys. So I need to trade. I need to play around.

51:58Justin Hast:I need to keep things moving. How many do you have? There's a box of eight that is the absolute. But you keep, I remember you telling me about to try and keep yourself to the box. There's overflow. There's other boxes. But the main eight is I try to say, look, this is absolutely keepers for the long term. And I've had this one for a few months now. And that by Owl, the way the 36 mil the mid-size Royal Oak wears that's good Royal Connections I think it was the Duke of Windsor or something the guy with the beard and the double-breasted suit he always wears a Royal Oak two-toned Prince Michael of Kent Prince Michael of Kent there we go he's a cool dude he's a cool dude he wears a mid-size great size just a tad quieter on a Royal Oak tad quieter so is that one of the eight the Patek there yeah what did Gianni Annelli wear when he wore it above his cup Pro Proff an Amiga Pro Proff I think it was Amiga wasn't it and loads of others as well He was a prolific 24.99 Patek, which is now one of the most collectible.

52:50Justin Hast:He's prolific, as most Italian elegant men and women are. He liked a big tool watch. He liked a bulky. Yeah, exactly. I mean, most people weren't really doing that with suits. No. Anyway. Anyway, Justin, thank you so, so much. I think we just rattled through a lot there. And then we'll hopefully do this after Watcher Wonders. See if some of the wishes have come true. As always, it's been a pleasure. Thanks very much. Cheers, boys. Win the day. Win the day. Before you go, just a final reminder about the Clubhouse membership, our way to unlock a whole host of benefits across the world of Gentleman's Journal, including two magazine issues delivered to your door each year, full access to all our paywall content, members-only invites to exclusive events, and a weekly newsletter delivered into your inbox every weekend.

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