In short
Charlotte and Peter Fiell discuss how design, collecting, and storytelling intersect—especially through Taschen’s lavish illustrated “Ultimate Collector” books on watches, chairs, and other objects. They argue that collecting reflects specific psychology and that design is fundamentally “conception and planning,” not decoration.
Guest backgrounds
Charlotte Fiell is a writer and researcher who grew up collecting (Chinese ceramics and other objects) and later trained at Sotheby’s; she’s finishing a PhD on the psychology of collecting. Peter Fiell is a long-time Sotheby’s-trained design historian and co-author who helped build a UK mid-century modern furniture gallery and then became a prolific illustrated-book author.
Key claims
Collectors often share traits tied to an ADHD/autism-like “systemizing” neurotype; collecting is driven by the dopamine thrill of the hunt. Taschen books are not “coffee table” items because they combine scholarship (e.g., 200,000+ words; 11 kg watch volumes) with new imagery. Design differs from art by aiming at reproducible solutions for “the many rather than the few.”
Notable examples
Oak Collection Patek Philippe (Patrick Jetred); Roger W. Smith independent watchmaking; Seiko’s Astron triggering the quartz crisis; Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak; Ducati desmodromic valves; Pierre Polin chairs; flea-market vessel collecting in Spain.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOEarly Influences on Storytelling
0:03 to 0:30
Charlotte shares her childhood experiences that led to her love of books.
“So you were scrolling on Marketplace and there it was, the bike you'd been searching for.”
Early Influences on Storytelling
1:31 to 3:32
Charlotte shares her childhood experiences that led to her love of books.
“sharing stories of excellence with those in the know for those who just know.”
Journey into Publishing
3:32 to 5:24
Charlotte and Peter discuss how they started writing books about mid-century modern design.
“I was at Sotheby's and my tutor said, you know, you really should write a book on what you're specializing on, which was mid-century modern, because there was really no book out there.”
The Success of Their First Book
5:24 to 7:56
Discover how their first book gained recognition and led to more opportunities.
“But the story goes, I mean, the book did extremely well, so happy to say.”
Creating Lavish Illustrated Books
7:56 to 10:57
Explore the evolution and characteristics of their illustrated art books.
“typically look like and feel like and how they storytell.”
Common Traits of Collectors
10:57 to 14:00
Charlotte and Peter discuss the characteristics of passionate collectors they’ve encountered.
“So we got to know the sale room world, which is all about collecting, obviously.”
Exploring the World of Watch Collecting
14:00 to 16:32
Discover the fascinating stories behind top collectors and their contributions.
“It's the biggest private collection of Patek Philippe watches in the world by a long way.”
Exploring the World of Watch Collecting
16:36 to 17:06
Discover the fascinating stories behind top collectors and their contributions.
“and all customizable through our 3D builder on poubelle.com.”
The Psychology of Collecting
17:07 to 21:46
Understand the psychological aspects and neurotypes related to collecting.
“I'm very interested in the psychology of collecting.”
The Art of Storytelling in Design
21:47 to 24:25
Explore how storytelling intertwines with the history and process of design.
“And I suppose I should have imposter syndrome, but I don't.”
Show all 19 chapters
Design: A Journey Through Time
24:26 to 28:00
Learn about the evolution of design and its significance throughout history.
“There has to be some forethought that brings them into being, right?”
The Interconnectedness of Design
28:00 to 30:46
Discover how everything in the universe connects and its relevance to design.
Designing with Constraints
32:07 to 42:00
Explore how constraints in design lead to innovation and better results.
“And we spoke about the art and process of designing with constraints and without, and how furniture with the constraints of a room can create a story that's entirely different to one without that same constraint.”
The Emotional Connection to Collectibles
42:00 to 45:00
Explore the deep emotional ties people have with collectible items, including watches and sneakers.
“You're connecting with the soul of the watchmaker.”
The Evolution of Watchmaking
45:00 to 51:00
Understand the impact of competition and innovation in the watch industry, particularly during the quartz crisis.
“With sneakers, there's some argument of the utility of the shoe.”
The Art of Illustrated Book Publishing
51:00 to 56:01
Learn about the challenges and passion behind producing high-quality illustrated books.
“Because we spend so much time on the screen.”
The Book Industry's Challenges and Opportunities
56:01 to 1:00:00
Explore the complexities of the book industry, including low margins and the importance of editorial filters.
“So you have these dedicated bookstores in all the best cities, in all the best places in all the best cities around the world, selling these books direct to the public, which means one thing.”
Waste in the Publishing World
1:00:01 to 1:02:26
Discuss the problem of content-light coffee table books and the need for quality in publishing.
“that you would love to change and see less of and maybe a couple of things you'd love to celebrate and see more of?”
The Value of Beautifully Illustrated Books
1:02:27 to 1:04:02
Highlight the importance of combining great scholarship with stunning visuals in book publishing.
“And not only is it wasteful, but I think it takes the wider readership for fools, because these books aren't cheap.”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00This episode is brought to you by Facebook. So you were scrolling on Marketplace and there it was, the bike you'd been searching for. You sent a message and it turned out the seller was super chatty, kind of funny, and an avid cyclist. The next thing you know, you're in a cycling crew. Well, a community cycling group. The thing about Facebook, you might find more than what you're looking for. From a browse to a bike ride, this summer, find more on Facebook.
0:30The Gstaad Guy:Plan B is a backup birth control option that's there for you when things don't go according to plan. It specifically works after unprotected sex and before pregnancy occurs by temporarily delaying ovulation. Plan B is available nationwide at all major retailers and through delivery apps like DoorDash. No ID, prescription or age requirement. It's the number one OBGYN recommended brand of emergency contraception and it won't impact your future fertility. That's freedom to be. Use as directed. How are you both doing today? Very well, very well, thank you, very well. Thank you for having us. Thank you for being here.
1:07The Gstaad Guy:I'm so excited to be in this very colorful room in a very gray city. So it's great to be here. Yeah, yeah, yeah. All the Tashin stores are super special. Yeah. And the London one here, we love. That's amazing. Every corner you look at, there's just so much to take in. Yeah. It's really amazing. No doubt. Around the World with your host, the Stad Guy. We welcome you back to the Stad Guy podcast, sharing stories of excellence with those in the know for those who just know. Well, Charlotte and Peter Fiel, really happy to have you both here. Thank you. I think you're both exceptional storytellers, both on mic, which the audience will discover today, but also in your chosen form of storytelling, which is these beautiful books.
1:58The Gstaad Guy:I would love to know more about how this became your way of telling stories with these incredible books that are incredibly visual as well. Charlotte, I'd love to start with you. It really goes back to my childhood. My paternal grandparents, my grandfather was a collector of Chinese ceramics Japanese sword furniture, netsuki, whatever so from a very early age I mean literally as a baby teething I was given like a little Chinese bronze because it was cold to teethe on so that had all, you know the sort of collecting thing had been but also my grandparents for every birthday and every Christmas would give me a beautiful storybook that was beautifully bound.
2:55It was just like, you know, they were sort of folio society books, or they'd even give me old ones. And I just loved those books. I loved the storytelling, and I loved the physicality of books. So in a way, I sort of, I fell in love with books as a child. and there was a huge reader as a child. I mean, I learned so much. At a very young age, I was horribly precocious with what I was reading, you know, from existential stuff to feminism to whatever, way too young.
3:32But somehow we fell into doing books. I was at Sotheby's and my tutor said, you know, you really should write a book on what you're specializing on, which was mid-century modern, because there was really no book out there. And so that's what happened. And we never really looked back. Well, you need to contextualize it a bit more by saying, not very far away from here, just on the other side of Chelsea Town Hall, we had a gallery where we were selling pioneering upmarket mid-century modern furniture. We broke it, basically, in the UK. We had a furniture gallery. And this is what your tutor at Sotheby's was saying, is that we needed to write a book about it to tell the story about mid-century modern, why it was so important.
4:23We actually wanted a catalog, but the catalog, it was too expensive for us to make a catalog. So it was like, oh, well, let's do a book and then someone else can basically pay for it. I remember. I can remember the day vividly Charlotte came home from Sotheby's and said, my tutor has just said, look, we need to write a book. And we thought, wow, okay, well, who should we go to? Well, the best publisher we knew at the time was Thames & Hudson, who were based in London, fortunately. So we contacted them, went in, made a pitch, and by gum, they went for it, first shot, like, whoa, full-on book with Thames & Hudson, our first attempt.
5:02And I was only, what, 23? Yeah. So to have your first book at 23 is quite something. We were running a gallery, writing a book, and Charlotte had her first baby. And I've got this fabulous photograph of Charlotte nursing a baby in front of the first ever Mac computer, okay, writing this book. You know, in our living room, we didn't live very far from here either, just the other side of Sloan Square. But the story goes, I mean, the book did extremely well, so happy to say. and there was a German co-edition which was noticed by Benedict Aschen. And we didn't know who he was, but we got this phone call from his PA from Cologne, where the head office is, and she said, listen, Benedict's coming to London, and he wants to meet you guys because he's seen your book in German language.
5:55So in he comes to the gallery, and he says, look, I love this book. The next idea you've got for a book, come and see me in Cologne. so I said okay but in the meantime we had been phoned up by the chief commissioning editor at Thameson Hudson a legendary guy called Jamie Camplin who later became the CEO of the company telling us that don't pay any attention to this maverick way out there crazy guy Benedict Ashen because you know you don't want to do any business with him he's into comic books you know it's just not exactly what Demson Hudson was doing and well we thought well let's meet him and make our own mind up and super charming and really entertaining and so in our contract for this first book it said already like we this is Demson Hudson we have first refusal on your next one we thought my god we're already talking about a second book I mean this is unbelievable so sure enough we got the next idea and it was to do a book dedicated to the chair and a big book on the chair and feature like a thousand of them.
7:10And even to this day, that's our best-selling book. So we made the pitch to Thames & Hudson and they said, well, we don't know. We're going to have to trial it at the Frankfurt Book Fair. And if we can't sell a co-edition, then we'll have to decline it. And the irony was they didn't think they'd be able to get a German publisher for it. So, yeah. Yeah, exactly. So you can guess what happened. They came back from Frankfurt, declined the book because they couldn't get a German publisher interested. Within days, I was on a plane to Cologne, presenting Benedict with this book. And it's still to this day, our best selling book of all time.
7:48And whenever we saw Jamie Camplin after that, it was just, I can't believe that happened that we turned that book down.
7:55The Gstaad Guy:So for the listeners today that may not be watching the podcast and seeing the book in between us, and they may not be familiar with your past work or Tashin's work, I'd like to describe what your books typically look like and feel like and how they storytell. And if that first book was as beautifully visual and large as the one between us today. Well, we've been at this now for 35 years, and the Watches book, we count this as two because it's a double volume. I think legitimately it can be seen as two books. I mean, it's almost a thousand pages, you know. That's a huge book. I mean, even 500 on it is a big book.
8:39over that time we've become better and better and better our craft right we become more efficient more productive and more creative and and uh and thankfully we're working for and mostly have over those 35 years the greatest of all time illustrated art book publisher without a shadow of a doubt benedict tashin is in a league of his own and my god we are so lucky to be working with him and you know it's always a big team effort okay so what we're doing today we're at the top of our game i have to say i'm so happy to say you know um after all these years we're still well better than ever i would say making these huge colossal books which are a new type of book really because i mean they're they're super lavishly illustrated okay but then there's a lot of scholarship that's been lavished on them too.
9:34So sort of like a hybrid book. I mean, to call these books that we're doing now coffee table books, I find, I consider quite derogatory because it implies a certain banality, right? And I mean, there are coffee table books that are super content light, and this is anything but. This is at the other end of the spectrum, okay? And we really pride ourselves on doing this because I have to say in the watch literature, there seem to be more content-like books than anywhere else. It's really painful for me to see that and for the publishers to be taking the readers as, you know, to have low expectations.
10:11So the brief for this book was pretty much the brief that we always get from Benedictus. It's an unspoken brief, okay? And that is create the best book there's ever been on the subject. And whatever that takes in new imagery that needs to be generated and the amount of text that you grind out. There's over 200 ,000 words of text in this book. I mean, that is a serious amount of text. And, you know, let's not discuss the budget because there really isn't one. It's what it takes.
10:47The Gstaad Guy:And it weighs 11 kilos. Yeah. It's heavy in a lot of different ways. Exactly. It's even physically heavy. so that's no joke I mean actually since we're talking about the ultimate collector of watches book I'd love to talk about the first couple of words ultimate collector you've both been exposed to collectors of all sorts from what it sounds your entire lives I mean Charlotte since you were a child and I think it's also we both trained at Sotheby's Institute at different times. So we got to know the sale room world, which is all about collecting, obviously. But we've been so unbelievably lucky throughout our lives to meet the most incredible people, often collectors.
11:38And it's strange with collecting. Often people take you in. If you share a same passion or interest in something, they actually take you in a lot more than maybe they would otherwise because there's something to bond on it doesn't matter that they're super wealthy and you're not or um you know whatever there's that communality of interest and um so we've been to some extraordinary places and we've met extraordinary people and that's the best you know you have a wonderful job you meet all these amazing people and we have too and we often do quite a lot of interviews in our books too, which I love doing.
12:25Because again, you get to know these people. You can ask the difficult questions and the interesting questions. Yeah, it's just been a great journey. Absolutely. I love that.
12:36The Gstaad Guy:I think when two collectors are passionate about the same collectible, the connection makes sense. It's something that can be assumed. but I've seen while meeting collectors of different things actually lots of overlap in terms of personality traits between these people when their collections actually can have nothing to do with one another yeah so I'd love to actually learn more about the collectors you've studied and if you could tell me more about the things they have in common as people aside from the collections themselves. What does it mean to be a passionate collector? Well, it helps to be able to afford your hobby.
13:27And our books are focusing at the high end of whatever it is, cars, motorcycles, now watches. And as time has gone on, I'm noticing more and more the commonalities between these collectors. The first thing I have to say is how nice they are. to a man and i don't think i've met any women inevitably well i mean we're talking about cars motorcycles and watches okay it is male dominated that's the reality and so the top collectors are men and um it was incredibly enlightening to be doing this watches book and to meet the various top collectors in the world, not least Patrick Jetred, who is the owner and the architect of the Oak collection, that's one of a kind, which is based in Geneva.
14:23It's the biggest private collection of Patek Philippe watches in the world by a long way. The only thing that rivals it is the Patek Museum itself, right? And my god, we became really good friends, you know, to the point where he actually gifted me the most beautiful watch um just out of friendship not because of anything else just because he knew that we were passionate about the subject you know so passionate that we did this book with him i mean he virtually all of the pateks we feature in the book come from the oak collection and and but you know there there was a similar personality in our motorcycle book a German guy living near Lake Constance, and he's the top motorcycle collector in the world.
15:12Again, just the loveliest person and so generous with time and information and whatever he could do to help make the book as good as it could be. It was a real joy. And we seek out these people because it's all in the title, right? Ultimate collector, whatever. So you need to find the top guy or the top few guys. And there were some other ones that we worked with here on the watches book that, you know, I mean, we're talking about multi-million pound watches here, okay? Sending them to a place where they could be safely photographed specifically for the book. And this happened time and time again.
15:59And, you know, for this book, 59 of the 100 watches were photographed completely from the ground up, new for presentation in this book. And that meant getting access to the private collectors, right? And I'm constantly amazed at how free and, you know, easy they are with allowing access like that. And I guess maybe because it's a book for Tashin or maybe they... But we also understand collecting, and I think they get that.
16:31The Gstaad Guy:Yeah. This podcast is brought to you by Pubelle, bringing you interchangeable charm jewellery, hand-painted with enamel on styling silver, allowing you to celebrate all the things you love and all the things you might question through interchangeable styling silver bracelets, bangles, whoop, charms, mini-charm bracelets, rings, cufflings, and much more. and all customizable through our 3D builder on poubelle.com. That is poubelle, P-O-U-B-E-L, dot com. Thank you so much for watching. And now back to the podcast. I'm very interested in the psychology of collecting. Charlotte is doing a PhD or just finishing a PhD on this very subject.
17:16Yeah, I mean, for my sins. but there definitely is a specific neurotype that keeps coming up again and again and again and I mean you'd call it ADHD or Audi for short which is basically a combination of ADHD and autism that if you actually analyze collecting and and that neurotype it's really quite interesting because for autism, one of the main diagnostic things is system of collecting. So I'm an absolute addict of love on the spectrum. And, you know, the first questions that these blind dates go on is, what's your special interest and what do you collect? And it's always, you know, the girls, it's dolls, the men, it's swords, strangely enough.
18:13so so there's definitely that that thing but then adhd is really interesting because adhd is caused by low dopamine and the thrill of the chase when you collect is a dopamine you know adrenaline dopamine rush um and then you get you know you've you buy the stuff and then you get the serotonin you know happy happy thing so you can see that the combination of the two sort of makes a lot of sense. And it's that sort of neurotype. The diagnosis has only been since 2013. So relatively new. Before that, it was believed that if you had autism, it precluded ADHD and vice versa. And now there's a much more understanding of that specific neurotype.
19:04And, you know, we've met a lot of collectors. And you can see this trait coming through. They're often very outgoing, whatever, but my God, they love the system, the thing of the actual collecting. So it's an interesting area. And, you know, really could be doing with a lot more research. And especially when you look at historical collections, you know, often historical collections are framed by, oh, this was an eccentric who was you know collecting it but actually no probably it was someone who had that neurotype and and so you know it's a hidden history too it's a neurodiverse hidden history
19:44The Gstaad Guy:there um which i think is fascinating so i love that yeah i'm fascinated by the art of collecting even in categories where i may not have much personal interest i mean i happen to love watches and I happen to know little to nothing about motorcycles but I'm as amazed by a passionate motorcycle collector as I am by a passionate watch collector because I find mastery in anything, an obsession in anything to be a really beautiful thing. And the path someone goes down to gather knowledge with a smile on their face and in many ways in a non-academic environment. It's usually in free time and they turn something very playful into something actually quite academic, which also sounds like a path that you both went on, especially with the PhD now.
20:41The Gstaad Guy:Yeah, yeah. I mean, one of our favorite pastimes is going to like the flea market in Spain every Saturday or Sunday and literally, you know, we'll pick up stuff. He has the most incredible collection of Spanish cooking pots. I mean, really. But it's actually a sort of academic, you know, study of shapes. It's a beautiful collection. Well, they're not necessarily cooking pots. They're vessels of some kind. Yeah. But, yeah, they're timeless. You know, they go back even before the Roman occupation. Yeah. But the first line in the Watches book that you'll read is a little abstract that we wrote to preface the whole thing.
21:25And it goes, collecting is often a lifelong passion because the urge to hunt never dies. I love that. And the longer you hunt, the more skills you learn to catch the best prey. Until ultimately you become hooked on the thrill of the chase. So that's what it's all about, is hunting. It never dies. And I really, oh, we totally get that. I mean, it doesn't matter what it is. you know um terracotta you know water vessels uh to uh patek philippe watches anything in between
21:59The Gstaad Guy:you're hunting always for it and on your side you're hunting for the information and the stories yeah that's right that's right that's right and and you hit the nail right on the head because it is absolutely all about storytelling and the stories are amazing you know and i think one of our usps is that in the stories that we tell we can weave in like super technical stuff but in a way that makes it this is charlotte's skill by the way she does most of the writing uh she can take an incredibly complex and technical subject weave it into the story in a way that makes it interesting and very readerly like when we did the motorcycle book i'm telling you my wife is a badass she could she can tell you all about desmodromic valve actuation you know in the famous ducati desmo uh engine well it's referring to the the valves and the way they move right they don't use springs it's like a cam system charlotte i just knew it inside and out i love deep diving into nerd nerddom and it's so funny because you know the the books that the ultimate collector series we've done for Tashin is very male subjects, you know, cars, motorbikes, watches.
23:17And I suppose I should have imposter syndrome, but I don't. But because I love deep diving into technical subjects, and then being able to basically translate them into more layman terms, but not losing it. I mean, if I remember, we did a book on plastics once and having to to explain the different chemical bonds and it's like well you know whatever elastomers are like a bowl of spaghetti i mean because then at least people can understand that so um so yeah it's all about storytelling and and design is the biggest story of them all because everything is designed often design is seen as like some add-on thing people oh i have you know designer belt or designer sunglasses, whatever, everything, every pair of sunglasses is designed or every belt is designed.
24:10Well, that should be every man-made thing is designed. Absolutely. You know, and has been since we were in the Stone Age. All products, more specifically, even all products of mankind have been to a greater or less extent designed. So it's a huge story. Things don't, man-made objects don't materialize out of nothing. There has to be some forethought that brings them into being, right? And that forethought is best defined as conception and planning. Three words, that's the definition of design, conception and planning. And you can trace that forethought that's been invested in the realization of a physical product.
24:49So far back, it predates Homo sapiens. It goes to Homo habilis, our earlier hominid ancestor, so named by Louis B. Leakey, the famous anthropologist, because Homo habilis means handyman. And he was handy because he made stone tools. So, you know, I mean, think about it. I mean, that's where the story of design begins 2.3 million years ago. Some people think it started at the Bauhaus, for goodness sake.
25:22The Gstaad Guy:you know i mean come on i mean your your second book was all about chairs correct right i'd love to learn more about that because that sounds like i mean the first chair that was designed is definitely not the first chair that was used i assume just sitting on a boulder can also be the chair and a lot of cultures have matte matte cult you know were matte cultures so um no chairs No chairs. And also chairs, you know, the status of chairs is a really big theme. But actually that book was interesting because, you know, we published it early 90s. And it was really a way of showing how design had evolved through one specific object.
26:09Yeah, that was fascinating. And that was a really interesting way. So you could basically see the different design styles come through. So no, it was a really good book. And I think it sold. The Thousand Shares book, which we did, which I think was, we did one shares book, then we did a few monographs, and then we did the Thousand Shares book, which was this huge block of a book. It's still selling. god knows how many years after but that was really almost like a introduction to design for a lot of people because everyone loves a chair you know it's they're easy to understand and there's something also very like watches actually you have a very intimate relationship with a chair it's cradling you and and the same with a watch you know watches have a very intimate relationship to people.
27:05Yeah, we were lucky in that we could tell a really interesting story about design through the chair. It wasn't just that we were showing an evolution of forms and types and materials applications, but we, for the first time, like, I think even still came closest to defining a kind of a unified theory of design. And the way we did that is we bolted two things together. We synthesized two big ideas. the first one was the idea of connections which was first kind of articulated by charles eames who's one of the most famous chair designers of all time in american in california you probably know of him and he he he came out with this idea of how everything connects but he was really thinking more specifically about the structure of the chair okay and then and the way it related to say the manufacturer and the concerns of the consumer and so on but when he when he really began analyzing it more deeply he realized my god everything connects and i mean everything does connect ultimately at the most profound level right we won't go there in terms of quantum mechanics but i can tell you that everything in the universe is connected okay i can assure you okay but going going back to design so we bolted the idea the eamesian notion of connections onto what was then state-of-the-art design theory which had to do with design rhetoric and the idea that a designer is consciously articulating an argument you know through an object that he's designed he's trying to persuade you of its usefulness its functionality it's beauty whatever through various means okay and that's the first time that's ever been and maybe the only time that's ever been attempted we're still like all these years later proud of that and we we could do that through the chair because of the nature of the connections as charlotte just said in that it does connect with you physically and therefore emotionally and in all sorts of other ways that affects your you know well-being and uh it's unique in that regard okay and status too many different the chairman you know um yeah yeah exactly exactly case in point so yeah that was we were sort of laying down a marker there saying okay look this uh there's more to it than what you might realize and then we we started out specializing in mid century furniture which was a good place to start for the reasons i've just outlined there there's this big story behind how things came about and the meaning of things and then we generalized so we specialized and then generalized into the whole world of design which is the biggest story out there way bigger than the story of art it starts sooner there's more things involved like materials applications you know it various constructional processes you know economics economics you know government regulations you know all sorts of different things that don't come into the story of art are in the story of design and so there i mean probably maybe the story of our biological evolution is bigger but i don't think by much the story of design is a huge story and so that's what we began addressing in as many different ways as we could and one of the ways we're addressing it now is through the world of collecting which is fascinating but at a very high level okay because that's where all the action is yeah
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32:04The Gstaad Guy:Thank you so much and now back to the podcast. We recently had on the podcast a guest named Benjamin Polin, whose father is Pierre Polin, and incredible furniture designers and artists. And we spoke about the art and process of designing with constraints and without, and how furniture with the constraints of a room can create a story that's entirely different to one without that same constraint. And the categories you've spoken about all very much seem to me as designs with constraints. I think motorcycles have to fit within a lot of technology packed into a very small space. Watches are that to the nth degree.
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32:51The Gstaad Guy:It's like the most technology possible and craftsmanship in this tiny, tiny space. and even chairs, although some are designed for aesthetic, they still need to be useful to the human shape and to the human body. So I'd love to unpack those constraints that you've observed and worked with. When I saw that you'd interviewed Benjamin, I couldn't believe it because we knew Pierre very well and went to stay with him in his house when we were about your age, actually. and I just love his mother. His mother is the best, Maya. I always say, you know. Pierre's wife. Pierre's wife. The woman who I would like to age into most is basically Benjamin's mother.
33:44She's just the most elegant, lovely, naturally graceful woman. I mean, incredible. But yes, his father was the best chair designer ever. I mean, literally, we have Pierre Polin chairs in our sitting room. You know, our cat loves them. Unfortunately. Unfortunately, because they're so comfortable. So, yes, I mean, but actually constraints are super important for designers because it makes them work a little bit harder. And it's when they're made to work harder that you get the best results. you know often they'll you'll have certain designers i won't name names who love being unconstrained but actually what results often doesn't have a lot of function it's not what it needs to be it's not the right price point or whatever so actually constraints on a designer are super important because it makes them work harder and you then get a better result from the end of it.
34:48Yeah unconstrained design is really more about the self-expression of the designer. Okay so you have these two different directions in design. This is when design gets conflated with art okay with something it beyond function. What's it about? It's about self-expression. Okay well that's okay and there's a lot of interesting things that result from that right? But what problems are you really solving? None. You know unless it's you know the problem of your own self need to self-express okay if you're concerned about um reaching the many rather than the few which is where the greatest design always happens then you're working within a huge set of constraints and they're very useful and they're necessary and that's where you see the greatest things happen in the world of design is more constraints the better actually
35:42The Gstaad Guy:so what would you say the main differences between art and design
35:49um well function function is the obvious thing that comes to mind immediately but um i mean this is quite a big question um i mean i would say in most cases it's about industrial reproduction the reproducibility of the design solution i mean the key is in the word solution so it's answering it's it's a response to a problem that's been identified whereas what is art and what problem is art addressing i mean you could say okay well it could be addressing some political issue right and and and who said it all art is political was it andy warhol no i I can't remember now. Someone did say that once.
36:36And yes, that's true. But I mean, beyond the world of ideas, what is it really addressing? And design addresses physical issues and is the only way we can make progress going forward is through realizing better, more efficient, more intelligent solutions to the, my God, never-ending series of problems that we've got right and there's some massive problems and um often for us anyway the most interesting designs are ones that are like for sure engineering driven okay and and engineering design go together more often not more than people realize right like just take your basic average plastic chair not that many are being made anymore thank goodness But I mean, to realize a plastic chair is such a huge big deal.
37:35Like if anyone superstar designer designs one in their lifetime, that's a big deal. Because of the engineering required behind the making of the damn thing, right? Oh, and the cost of tooling. The cost of like setting up the production. I mean, first of all, you've got to be sure that you're going to be making a lot of them. Okay. and then that implies okay well all the engineering that lies behind that and uh yeah and it's very expensive with a lot of experts behind the scenes you never hear of that are there doing it and overseeing the superstar you know designer and uh and no doubt um trying to convince them that what he's doing is not the most the best way of doing it so yeah the difference between art and design I think in the first instance is the intent that lies behind it.
38:31And good design is attempting to get to the many rather than the few, which implies a certain level of production and reproducibility, which implies a certain level of engineering and manufacturing investment, whereas a work of art is more often not a one-off, right?
38:50The Gstaad Guy:So how does that translate to the category of watches where it's super interesting because in a way um there's a huge craft trend in design for obvious reasons we live in a very digital age and we want to connect with things that have got the the imprint of people making them and um for sure you know say a beautiful audemar watch is a beautifully designed thing. It's a beautifully made thing. And there has to be in this world room for objects like that because they keep people in meaningful employment. They give pleasure and everything else. You know, it's the watch industry is super interesting because none of us really need a watch.
39:40We all have our mobile phones, which tell the time. Well, a mechanical watch. You know, we don't need a mechanical watch. so but I love the fact that in Switzerland you have this wonderful synergetic cluster of watchmaking pushing forward the technology of watches actually when you you go and see watches being made there's something really lovely about the fact that you know this is a skill that's come from one generation to the next to the next but it's thriving still um more than ever and you only need with craft we we've we've done um we did a really interesting book on chinese craftsmanship and went to see all these wonderful national treasures all around china but the real thing about craftsmanship is it the craft skills can be lost in one generation so to have that continuous thread is super important and I think that's one of the lovely things about watchmaking is you know it's it's going back through time you know we've always wanted to calculate the passing of time we'll just take one guy one independent Roger Smith okay here's here is a watchmaker that makes himself or within his studio or workshop every single component of the wristwatch okay and when when you have the finished product and you're contemplating it i mean my god you're you're in touch with the soul of roger smith this guy's put his soul into this thing and you can it's tangible when you, you know, it's a one of a kind or part of a limited series, absolutely handcrafted every single component and assembled by Roger W.
41:39Smith. I mean, how awesome is that? And the whole thing comes together and works, you know, reliably, but does need a degree of human interaction to keep it going, which is nice. And so every time you do need to wind it, you're in touch with Roger and there you are I mean this is deep stuff right I mean and I think that's why people like to collect those kinds of watches independent made watches I mean I'm sure you know Roger's story but I mean he he was brought into the watch world by George Daniels and you know what a legend Daniels was right and and now Roger's taken on the same mantle But yeah, I mean, this is the thing.
42:21I mean, it's about connections, right? You're connecting with the soul of the watchmaker. It's connections, connections, connections. Everything connects. And it's the quality of the connections that determines the value of the design. Yeah, in Japanese and Chinese culture, it's really interesting because there's a belief that objects have spirit. They're imbued with spirit. and there's actually a specific Chinese word which means the spirit that's put into an object by the craftsman making it or the designer making it and how then that spirit can be connected to by the person who uses that object.
43:03And I think that's really lovely because actually one does have emotional connections to objects. I'm sure there are things in your life that you absolutely love and treasure, but it's really just an inanimate object. But they're full of symbolism and heartstring stuff.
43:25The Gstaad Guy:It's true, absolutely. Yeah. You're a sneakerhead, aren't you? I was a big sneakerhead. You was a sneakerhead. I was a big sneakerhead. Say you're a collector too. Yeah, I've been a collector of something my entire life. I think like many millennial slash Gen Z collectors, I started actually with Pokemon. Oh, really? Pokemon was my franchise of choice. I don't think there's any design in the items I was collecting or problem solving going on. It's purely trivial. And all the scarcity involved is artificial and not because of engineering hurdles like watches or any of the other topics we've covered.
44:06The Gstaad Guy:But I was a Pokemon fanatic and then became a sneakerhead and turned that actually into a fun business when I was quite young and flipped those, which I think is actually a very often reoccurring story. A lot of sneakerheads end up selling some sneakers. And then that turned into a love for watches, which again has a lot of limitations on the volume. I had a lot more Pokemon cards than I did sneakers and I had a lot more sneakers than I do watches. That's usually how it goes. But on the design side, actually I'd love to learn more from your side about the intention behind a lot of the creativity of these collectibles.
44:54The Gstaad Guy:Because something like Pokemon, I think the intention could be entertainment or art or a financial intention as well. It's a business. With sneakers, there's some argument of the utility of the shoe. I think the bigger intention there is actually just consumerism and expression. And with the watches, I think it goes more towards function and art. with the chairs maybe it's more function and expression there's there's so many different motivators involved in these different things and i'm curious to understand when it comes to some of these truly exceptional creations that are collected at the highest level that you storytell all about in different books, what is usually the motivator for the creation of those goods in the first place?
45:58There's normally some kind of challenge. It seems the unifying theme could be some kind of challenge, like a technical challenge, can this be done? Or it could be literally competition in the case of cars, right? Some of the most collectible cars, certainly Ferraris, um inevitably there was a competition aspect to them like they're sports racing cars that then maybe became a road going version or they are the actual race car right the competition car i mean that's that's where the really super big money is and so then there's everything that lies behind that all right fangio drove this car and won the monaco grumpri with it i mean my god i mean what a thing right imagine driving that car Fangio drove that car holy cow you know I mean who wouldn't want to have that or have that experience with watches it's different there's no real competition but I think among watchmakers there's always a sort of a one-up upmanship thing like all right well okay who can produce the first like you know industrially made repeatable serially produced you know um perpetual calendar wristwatch who could do that with a chronograph thrown in oh that would be patek philippe then right or uh you know um who can come up with the sexiest new type of watch say a sports type watch well the royal oak was you know there we go there it is groundbreaker gerald genta would be the band and actually it's really interesting because in 1969, there was the sort of beginning of the quartz crisis because Seiko introduced its Astron watch, which actually was really interesting in terms of technology.
47:49Because the quartz technology existed, it had actually been pioneered by Bell, which had also pioneered the transistor radio, but actually it was a Japanese company that, you know, commercialized it. Same thing happened with quartz movements. And so in 1959, Seiko had a clock that was the size of a locker. And within 10 years, they got it down to the size to be able to be put into a wristwatch. That was 300 ,000 times smaller. So you're talking about miniaturization, miniaturization, miniaturization. So in 1969, they came out with this watch, and it just sent shockwaves through the watch industry.
48:34And all these watchmakers in Switzerland were scrabbling around, trying to think, how do we, you know, how do we survive this? I mean, it was, it was, whatever. I mean, yeah, whatever, loathing, whatever, fear and loathing in the watch industry for a while but then say Gerald Genter who designed the Royal Oak came up with the most super stylish luxury stainless steel sports watch and it redefined what watches look like and it was the it was the most expensive watch on the market at the time and so that was really the start of the Swiss watch industry having to take notice of the course crisis and and and and change the game plan well it helped that Nicholas Hayek was operating at quite a high level at the time and and basically re-engineered the watch industry in Switzerland you know and then decided to compete with the Japanese on their own level with a court's watch and uh and so um i i think uh what was so interesting about the court's crisis was that it ultimately led on to the rise of the independence and it's been growing ever since and there never been more independence more interesting young watchmakers coming into the game and and and the whole watch industry was reborn as a result of it right and uh and who would have who would have thought that mechanical watches still had a future but i think you know as time's gone on they're they're seen and appreciate is kind of like the antidote to the digital age right this is something like super handcrafted extraordinary in its miniaturization of technology it's totally mechanical and done in such a way that in special cases you can actually feel the soul of the person behind it that created it in the case of the independence and uh it's one of the few things that a that a man can really wear that's getting on to sort of like jewelry you know something an accessory you can wear without raising eyebrows and uh and uh you know it i can see very easily how it can become compulsive and addictive and and how how how you don't want to stop collecting because they're just so lovely and beautiful and interesting and each one has its own kind of like personality and beauty and resonance right it's a fabulous
51:21The Gstaad Guy:subject area it's unbelievable that feeling you're describing with with the watch as the sort of breath of fresh air during this digital age is a feeling i actually feel with your books 100 and actually we we the the advent of digital and internet and everything else really changed the whole dynamic of of bookmaking because you had to think harder and what we try to do is actually make it an experiential experience what we strive to do is make books that are as beautiful and as informative as possible, but actually that people can sit down and just take time to just dip into and learn. Because we spend so much time on the screen.
52:15My daughter, Clementine, asked me what my screen time was two days ago. And I said, I'm not going to tell you. So she said, well, what was it? So I said, I actually had to turn it off because it was so bad. and so yeah we're spending way too much time on screen so actually it's the physicality of things like a watch like a book that actually gives us a different almost grounding experience because we spend so much of our time in this ethery space um and i don't know if it's that good for us really i mean yeah yeah i mean you've you are feeding the beast every day i don't know
53:01The Gstaad Guy:how you do it yeah i'm i'm very much online i'm probably more online than i'm in real life in terms of my my my waking hours um so it is really refreshing when i can enjoy something beautiful in the real world especially when it could exist online as well all of the content of your books could be online i could check the time online i could appreciate a beautiful video of a watch online but holding a watch in real life and holding one of your books in real life has this very special sometimes even ceremonial process to it and i think even just the size of your books allow it to be a shared experience i think the fact that i can sit with someone because usually a reading is a very intimate experience where just holding the book and actually having some alone time but i think that the scale of of these books allow this to be actually a moment that's shared a moment of conversation and even just around this room it's a bit of a museum well it's it it it's a monument to the art yeah of illustrated book publishing.
54:16And it's an art that's disappearing, you know. And I mean, you know, we remember those days with Thames and Hudson. I mean, okay, they still exist, but, you know, probably half of the illustrated art book publishers around the world, maybe more, probably more, that existed then are gone. And that's because of the advent of digital and the fact that, you know, as you say, you know, the content could appear online. But what most people don't really appreciate is when you've got the real book like this, I mean, the investment in money that has to go into the realization of it is off the charts. There's only one book publisher in the world that could do that, that's prepared to make that investment.
55:02And that's only because, well, for two reasons. The first one clearly is passion. You'll never see a more passionate book publisher than Benedict Hatchin, the most passionate, the greatest of all time, without a doubt. Not just because of the art that he lends to the whole subject area, but the business acumen as well. You have to have both. You can't have passion without the business acumen, right? And so he pioneered this phenomenal business model that allows these books to be published, that makes him money, which is what it's all about, right? That's fine. That's good. Making money is good if you're doing good things.
55:44And I believe these are really good things. And the whole thing rests on really, in the first instance, creating the best thing of its kind. That goes without saying. But the second thing is being able to sell the books direct. That's the key. So you have these dedicated bookstores in all the best cities, in all the best places in all the best cities around the world, selling these books direct to the public, which means one thing. The margins are so much bigger than they'd otherwise be, right? Because this is the thing. The book industry is cursed with low margins because there's so many different entities involved in the business of books, right?
56:26So you've got the retailer, you've got the distributor, you've got the printer, the binder, everything. And by the time you get down to the profit margin, it's microscopic so if you can sell books direct you solve most of those problems right yeah and then if you operate globally you don't have to depend on the co-edition model which is why the frankfurt book fair exists in the first place it's a giant business to business rights trading you know fiesta you don't have to worry about co-editions and you're selling books yourself globally as benedict does he's the only one by the way and you've got these stores around the world where you're selling direct in japan wherever shanghai even you know um that is a fantastic business model and then that allows books to be produced on this scale which are unprecedented and also there's the editorial filter yeah you can get lots of information online But is it actually correct?
57:27And I've actually recently come across, you know, AI lying. I was for my PhD there, I wanted to find out whether any book existed on bizarrely, was there a connection between tuberculosis and spiritualism? You don't, we won't go there. But anyway, so, you know, ChatGDP goes, oh, yeah, there is this book. And it sounded, you know, the title, it had the name of the author. It had the ISBN number, Manchester University Press. I thought, score. I found a book that I need to, you know, read and get, you know, quote in this PhD. So then I went to World Catalog. Wasn't there. And then I looked in various other places.
58:17this book did not exist. Chad G.P.T. had made it up. So then I type in and I say, why did you lie and make the title of this book up? And then it comes with all these excuses and admits it had lied. So we have to be super, super careful about what is actually, because most people would have just taken it as face value. Yeah, that book exists, but it doesn't. Yeah, what most people don't realize is, charlotte is absolutely right the editorial filters that a book like this has to go through you've got the authors themselves then you've got various copy editors fact checkers you know i mean there's layers and layers and layers of expertise that a book like this has to go through to justify going into print right you don't get that online anybody can come up with anything and just whack whack it up there right it doesn't matter well it should matter i mean if you're after you know good information then books are still where it's at i mean obviously you know google has its place and whatever but um it's a lot easier to make books like this now with with the internet we we back in the day we didn't have the internet at all can you imagine the research that the limitations there were on how we could extract information we were depending on you know the archives of manufacturers of museums collectors in some cases uh but now it's so much easier
59:48The Gstaad Guy:and uh which i guess makes things even harder to stand out because you constantly have to to elevate so that's it that's it on this podcast we always play a game of a la poubelle versus fantastique okay can you each share a couple of things that you would love to change and see less of and maybe a couple of things you'd love to celebrate and see more of? I think for me, waste a la poubelle. I mean, really, the amount of mindless crap that's made that we really don't need in our lives, whether it's stocking stuffers or, I don't know, kitchen gadgets that nobody ever uses after one time. I mean, that I think could be eliminated completely from our lives and our lives would be better for it.
1:00:39So that would be mine. And in terms of fantastique, it has to be can do. Because can do involves having a feeling of hope and that you can change the world. So I would say can do is, to me, the biggest attribute. But I would also say that on our journey, we've met an awful lot of very wealthy people, and we've seen that wealth doesn't necessarily bring happiness. But what does is contentment, peace, and health. And if you've got those, it doesn't matter what money you have. You'll be, you know, that's the good place to be. Absolutely. I love that. Well, if you want to be more specific in terms of what is Pubell in the book industry.
1:01:28That too. Yeah. I mean, it never ceases to amaze me what kinds of books get into print. And give Illustrated Book Publishing a bad name because they are literally coffee table books that have been produced as decorative objects and nothing more. You go into them and they are virtually content non-existent.
1:01:51The Gstaad Guy:I've actually seen some that are not even virtually. I've seen some that are literally empty white pages. Yeah. just literally to trust the coffee yeah that is not an exercise in dadist philosophy or whatever but uh no um no it i mean it seems to me the watch literature is cursed with this content light approach to book publishing where coffee table books so-called are produced and they are the most banal things that i mean i don't know what purpose they serve apart from decorative of objects literally on a coffee table, right? That is horrendous. That is waste big time. And not only is it wasteful, but I think it takes the wider readership for fools, because these books aren't cheap.
1:02:41In some cases, they're stupidly expensive with like zero content. Okay, there's images. I'm not saying there aren't images, but the images aren't necessarily anything like the ones we've generated from new and gone to huge trouble and expense to to create what i'd like to see what's fantastic is fantastic is um i hope an increasing like awareness among the readership that there is still value in the printed book and there's you can still lavish a great deal of scholarship onto a particular subject and produce it in a book with beautiful images. I mean, why does a beautifully illustrated book have to be scholarship light?
1:03:27Why can't you have both? You know, great scholarship, great images. I mean, it's kind of obvious, isn't it? I mean, that's what we're doing here. But I hope people realize, and I think it's fantastic that we're getting these books out there in the world, because we're showing people that there is a future in the printed book and that we can produce these objects of huge value, not just in terms of aesthetics but in terms of the knowledge the information that we're transmitting through we got a huge trouble to do that and it's all thanks to Benedict Tashin really allowing us to do that and that's fantastic
1:04:03The Gstaad Guy:thank you both so much for taking the time today and for sharing as much as you did pleasure it's so great to put faces to the names of these beautiful books and to understand the passion and love that goes into these things and for those listening today that have not passed by Tashin's store, I urge you to pass by and to look for your names at the top of the books and to see the love and passion that goes into each of those projects as well. Thank you so much for this. Thank you for being here. Thank you. Thank you.
1:04:47The Gstaad Guy:channels on Instagram, TikTok, Spotify, YouTube and Apple Podcasts. And we look forward to seeing you next week. Merci beaucoup, à la prochaine and a big hug from the Start Guy.
From the publisher
The Gstaad Guy sits down with Charlotte and Peter Fiell, the design historians, authors and curators behind Taschen's Ultimate Collector series, to explore what separates objects that endure from objects that end up as decoration. Across 35 years and a body of work that includes 1000 Chairs and an 11 kilo, 200,000 word volume on watches, the Fiells reflect on a career spent among the world's greatest collections, and on a publishing brief that has never changed: create the best book there has ever been on the subject.
The conversation moves from the psychology of collecting and the specific neurotype the Fiells keep encountering among serious collectors, to the quartz crisis that nearly ended Swiss watchmaking and instead gave rise to the independents. They argue that design began 2.3 million years ago rather than at the Bauhaus, that constraints make designers better rather than smaller, and that the value of an object lies in the quality of its connections. Charlotte also recounts the moment ChatGPT invented an entire book for her doctoral research, complete with author and ISBN, making the case for scholarship, editorial rigour and physical things in an age spent almost entirely on screen.
Filmed at the TASCHEN London bookstore.
(00:00) Intro ✨🎙️
(04:26) The Phone Call From Benedikt Taschen 📞✨
(07:21) Why These Are Not Coffee Table Books 📖🔍
(10:01) What The World's Top Collectors Have In Common 🏆🔍
(16:10) The Neurotype Behind The Urge To Collect 🧠🔮
(22:53) Design Began 2.3 Million Years Ago 🪨⏳
(24:25) A Thousand Chairs And A Unified Theory Of Design 🪑💡
(31:11) Constraints, And Where Design Ends And Art Begins ⚖️🎨
(37:50) Nobody Actually Needs A Mechanical Watch ⌚💭
(39:52) Feeling The Soul Of The Watchmaker ⌚❤️
(46:32) The Quartz Crisis That Remade Swiss Watchmaking 🇨🇭⚡
(50:23) Why Physical Things Ground Us In A Digital Age 🌿💻
(53:10) Why Only One Publisher Can Make Books Like This 📖👑
(56:26) When ChatGPT Invented A Book That Did Not Exist 🤖📖
(58:58) À La Poubelle vs. Fantastique 🗑️✨
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