#9 Superdry Co-Founder & CEO: Restructuring, Renegotiating, Rebranding

7 Nov 2025 · 37 min

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Big Boss Interview: Episode #9 Summary

Episode Overview Title: Superdry Co-Founder & CEO: Restructuring, Renegotiating, Rebranding Hosts: Sean Farrington, Felicity Hannah, Will Bain Guest: Julian Dunkerton, Co-Founder & CEO of Superdry Air Date: Not specified

In this episode, Julian Dunkerton shares the tumultuous journey of Superdry, from its peak valuation of £2 billion in 2010 to its struggle for survival, leading to his temporary departure from the company in 2018. His return one year later marked the beginning of a significant turnaround, characterized by restructuring, renegotiating rent, and a rebranding effort that has recently restored profitability.

Key Themes and Discussions

  1. Superdry's Journey
  2. Initial Success: Superdry reached a peak market cap of £2 billion in 2010.
  3. Challenges: The company faced drastic declines and fought for survival, leading to Dunkerton's departure.
  4. Return to Leadership: Dunkerton returned to Superdry in 2019, expressing regret over his earlier decision to leave.
  1. Turning the Company Around
  2. Restructuring and Cost-Cutting: Effective cost management and renegotiation with landlords allowed the company to stabilize.
  3. Return to Profitability: Recent financial results showed Superdry turning a profit again, with a noted increase in sales in UK stores.
  1. Retail Landscape and Consumer Behavior
  2. Physical Retail vs. Online Shopping: Dunkerton challenged the narrative that young people prefer online shopping, asserting that physical retail remains important to younger demographics.
  3. Experiential Retail: Emphasis on creating an engaging in-store experience to attract customers and enhance brand loyalty.
  1. Brexit and Policy Challenges
  2. Economic Impact: Dunkerton discussed how Brexit has negatively impacted British retailers, highlighting lost free trade opportunities and increased operational costs.
  3. Call for Free Trade Relationships: Advocated for returning to a free trade deal with the EU to improve economic conditions for British businesses.
  1. Vision for the High Street
  2. High Street Renaissance: Dunkerton called for policies that would revitalize town centers, suggesting simplification of business rates and focusing on the importance of hospitality and retail synergy.
  3. Taxation Policies: Suggested adjustments to VAT on food services to support local businesses and encourage vibrant high streets.
  1. Future Growth and Personal Projects
  2. Superdry's Strategy: Focusing on vintage and classic products that resonate with current fashion trends.
  3. Dunkerton's Cider Business: Discussed his entrepreneurial ventures outside Superdry, including a cider business that has become a local phenomenon.

Key Takeaways

  • Dunkerton's journey illustrates the volatility of the retail sector and the importance of adaptability in leadership.
  • The success of Superdry’s turnaround can be attributed to a combination of effective restructuring and an understanding of current consumer preferences.
  • The challenges posed by Brexit and current economic policies underline the complicated landscape for British retailers.
  • Revitalizing high streets is essential for fostering a sustainable retail environment and enhancing community engagement.

Conclusion Julian Dunkerton's insights provide valuable lessons on resilience, the significance of community-focused retail strategies, and the ongoing challenges facing the UK retail landscape. His passionate advocacy for free trade and high street regeneration reflects a broader concern for the economic future of British businesses.

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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00BBC Sounds, music, radio, podcasts

0:17Hello, welcome to our latest Big Boss interview. And today we have Will Vane and we also have the chief executive and founder of a fascinating company that has been on our high streets for many a year. It's had a fair few ups and downs. the boss of Superdry, Will. Who is he and what have you got? Yeah, that's right. I think that's what makes Julian Dunkerton a really interesting interviewee this week, Sean. It is those setbacks. Some of our previous guests, you know, might have been founders of their company or co-founders of their company as well, but they've had more perhaps, you know, bumps and tensions with the pandemic and things like that.

0:54But Superdry, as you say, has had a real rocky road. At one point, valued on the stock exchange at more than£2 billion to the brink of bankruptcy, Mr. Dunkerton leaving the company, and then upset with the direction it was taking, swooping back in a few years ago to retake over, and in its last set of financial results, just returning to profit again. So a real kind of up and down ride, as you say. And what jumped out at you from the interview, Will? Because Julian Dunkerton, he can be quite outspoken. He has been over the years, particularly when it's come to politics. Yeah, absolutely. We certainly heard a lot of that love that we've had from other co-founders, you know, talking about his business as more like an extended family rather than a company he was going back in to turn around again.

1:38But yes, he made this point and joked about this point. In fact, as he sat down for our interview, that he's quite political. He likes talking politics. People might remember, for example, back in 2018, he donated more than a million pounds to the People's Vote campaign. So that was to try and get a second referendum on Brexit. Brexit is certainly something, as you'll hear throughout the interview, that he still has. very strong opinions on and what he claims the impact has been to not just his business but british business more widely too and he wants to take on a whole range of options from houses to turning around our high streets but a lot of that he brings back and says it's because he loves high streets loves towns and and he says he loves the british retail landscape and feels that all of those are factors to help turn some of that around after a rough few years right let's have a listen to it here's will having a chat with julian dunkerton

2:27julian dunkerton chief exec and founder of super dry clothing thanks so much for being with us on the big boss interview absolute pleasure thank you for inviting me there was a period in time when i was getting ready for this interview i thought about it i was joking about it with my wife i don't know how many osaka t-shirts i owned at like 16 17 and i remember very clearly being in a nightclub in worcester so not very far from where we both grew up and everybody in the nightclub was wearing an Osaka t-shirt that kind of moment in the mid 2000s was that you thought Jesus this is amazing or oh my god I've got a problem or were you conscious of it no no you so you had to remember that I cult clothing had been quite a big business for quite a long time so when Superdry came you know I started Superdry I was quite quite seasoned if you like in retail and brands and and the business so so no I loved it I kind of rode the wave and really enjoyed it and I sort of seen it with other products before that I've been selling but never one of my own so that was that was the exciting part how many of circus seats did you have do you know what I never I never had one that wasn't that wasn't me I've got a million super dry garments big graphics and it would be me to be honest so what was it and why the kind of sort of Japanese evidently Japanese-inspired graphics of that period, the kind of real height of the company.

3:50So kanji to the Western eye, so Japanese sort of letter styles, were really fresh. It wasn't here. It wasn't visible. We had no products using it. So to the Western eye, to the European eye in particular, it felt really quite exciting. You know, sort of combining that with, dare I say, a preppy kind of look and feel product, which was sort of trending all over the world, and vintaged as well, seemed to make a lot of sense. And lo and behold, it really sort of worked. And how did you kind of hit on that preppy kind of look and the graphic? These things are sort of global phenomenons. So you have to remember at the time, it was sort of the beginnings of Abercrombie becoming popular in the US.

4:38Jack Wills was later, actually. We were first. But yes, they were riding the same wave. and it was just a really exciting fashion moment and ironically i think we're going to have another one now yeah well let's come right around to that well at that period you were what valued it on the stock market is but a two billion pounds pretty close company yeah i mean yeah was that that was the the epic the sort of i think it was the top i'm in close yeah that feeling there could you have seen i guess the issues that were coming at that time did it feel like you know because presumably when you get to a certain size it feels like it's always going to be self-fulfilling right that there's always going to be those people so so i mean i don't know if you know the details of the history but i stepped aside as as ceo and and i was really focused on product and creative side of the business at that point and you know i i made a mistake i shouldn't have step side decisions were made uh that changed the business model and and made the business not what it was it wasn't based on the success so problems and i could see the problems coming and i tried to warn the board that that that was going to happen and they didn't listen so so i i left i mean basically and i know you've talked about this quite a few times but just for people coming to this story brand new the issues that you saw especially as a founder of a business did you feel because that's been a trend hasn't it that sometimes new investment comes in when a company gets to a certain side oh well this guy was great for the idea at the start but actually he served his purpose and he doesn't know what he's talking about let's be clear it was my decision my mistake and i chose the wrong person and that's that's just you know the way it is and do you feel vindicated now we've we're talking what a couple of weeks after your financial results where back in back in profit again for the first time and you're back as the boss yeah yeah well look i love this industry um i love product i'm very much at the helm of of product again and fashion has a has a tendency to go in in cycles now you have to adapt to to now but preppy fashion is is very much back in vogue.

6:54You know, 18-year-olds are wanting that kind of product again. So actually, we're bringing ourselves back to our roots, really focusing in on the sort of product that we're brilliant at. Like what? Oh, vintage rugby tops, vintage polos, just button-down shirts, very, very classic products, but with a slightly vintage twist. And it's a space that we love. and it would seem from not just the financial results but the sales as week by week. I think we've been plus 20 % in UK full price stores two weeks on the trot. That's absolutely, so smashing everybody else in terms of the BRC and the relativity to other companies.

7:40So yeah, it's a great moment for us. And what has driven then that return to profitability? Looking through the results a bit, A lot of it is kind of you kind of getting the thing back on the rails a bit too, right? A lot of it's been done by savings so far rather than purely through kind of sales turnaround. So, yeah, so let's be clear. We did a restructuring process about a year ago, and I'll be eternally grateful to the landlords because we would not be here and suppliers who've helped us on this journey. We wouldn't be here. So without that happening, that made a huge, huge, huge difference.

8:11Well, it would have been impossible without it. but now you know we are in a yeah and we've been cutting costs i mean let's also be clear you know we have we were making unprofitable sales i've just got a brilliant coo that i work very closely with and we we have worked tirelessly to get our cost base right so that we can grow effectively profitably again and you are starting to do that we were just chatting about that in the lift absolutely on the way up here you're going to be opening a new store i don't know if you could say aware but you're going to be yeah yeah so aberdeen tomorrow yeah and so what has given you what day is it today oh no friday what so that would be today when this is all right today yes what has given you the confidence to start going out there and opening physical stores again at a time where all we hear endlessly right is that especially younger people only shop online completely not true so and particularly young people love the ability to go into a physical space they enjoy that social interaction that they have when they go shopping I would say it's actually the age group above that probably are less into into physical shopping but teenagers absolutely you know it's imperative to their kind of their lives I think that's really interesting we've had a few kind of hospitality bosses on saying a similar thing that actually we've missed it and the data has missed this this sort of idea that oh well young people don't want to go out or go clubbing or what actually that generation are coming out and spending now that it's become more cost effective and now that they're not it has to be cost effective so you've got to be affordable to them you've got to and you know rents have become more affordable that's another reason so you know we can go into and open a store with different economic metrics to eight years ago really So, yeah, absolutely.

10:03How? Why? Rents have come down. They've sort of tracked, you know, what's affordable to a potential tenant. Is that because there's been kind of other pressure on the high street? There's less people looking for those tenants? Yeah, look, I mean, we have to be clear. Not many of our high streets are in a brilliant shape. I mean, you know, and we'll probably talk about that politically later, I'm sure. You know, I'd love to be part of that renaissance of trying to go, actually, do you know what? High streets are great places to come. And we're very lucky in that we have a young demographic now shopping with us again, who are prepared to come into town centres and enjoy being in the town centre.

10:41Yeah, let's absolutely come to that policy help. But just before we do, one more on how you guys do it in the industry. What makes a good shopping experience, do you think? When you're opening your new store in Aberdeen, what are you thinking about for those shoppers who are going to go in there? Well, look, any business, you've got to be doing something that nobody else is doing. So you have to have a position in the market. You've got to be offering something that they can't buy somewhere else. And, you know, the reality is our quality, our price, we're affordable. It's amazing quality. It doesn't, you know, it lasts.

11:14Some of, you know, our products will go on for 20 or 30 or more years. And I'm proud of that. I am very proud of that. So when they touch the quality and realize how good it is and the price point is affordable, they go, yeah, okay, this is cool. And if you're making and if you're changing a perception, there's nothing better than a shop window to say, you know, well, we've changed. So our branding has changed. Our look and feel has changed. But none of that matters unless you get the pricing right, is what you're saying. No, you've got to get the pricing right. You've got to get. But you want the experience of something very exciting and could be much more expensive.

11:55But actually, it's got to be affordable. So I'm a great believer in delivering the best you can at the best price you can. And I think that's, you know. Because your stores are sort of consciously messy, right? Aren't they? They're not in sort of straight aisles. Oh, right. No, no. They're not straight aisles. They're not just practical. I was going to say that as a sort of good thing, you know, sort of immersive almost in a way. No, they are. They're experiential. So you go in, the music's loud. It's quite dark. Well, no. Actually, they've become a lot lighter in this rebrand and this reprocess.

12:24so they're quite physically different from how they how they have been why is lighter better it look we had you when you're when your brand is coming back in in a in a total refresh you've got to tell people you've changed so you you need to put yourself in the in in the marketplace in a different way and then people go oh something's happening at super dry well why oh go and have a look and once they come in they go oh this is amazing it's not what i this is not what i remembered if they're an original customer. Or, wow, isn't this amazing? You know, so TikTok's going mad because young people are loving it.

13:01And that quality side of it, like practically, what does that mean? Is that literally the – I nearly said ingredients there. Is that literally how the products are made or what do you mean by it? So it's the quality of the fabrics and the makeup. So, you know, we're as good as any top-end brand, but we're an affordable price. And I think that's what makes us particularly special. And that in particular was something, again, not to bring us all the way back, but that's something you felt the company had taken its eye off the ball on, wasn't it? Or had sacrificed? I think the love affair was slightly gone, and now it's come back.

13:39So, you know, I genuinely love what I do. I love products. I love retail. I think it's really exciting. And I love what it can do to a town centre or a shopping centre. Yeah. And so I find it very exciting. And the final thing that you've done in that is sort of the naming and things like that. What does that matter? What does that make a difference? So when we talked about kanji and the sort of Japanese influence, we've taken that away because the new branding expresses far more of a sort of a fresh approach to sort of preppy fashion, if you like. and you know what what was fresh 20 years ago is no longer quite as fresh to the eye there are multiple other retailers out there using different either kanji or something similar to the western eyes similar and too many middle class mums and dads going on holiday to japan well yeah so so it just it was time it was time for a change and and we've got it right it looks amazing it feels right and you know people are loving it so what are the headwinds then you've touched on a bit of policy is it policy is it things out of your control that if not keep you up at night have you kind of scratching your head a bit no i mean you know when it comes to sort of government policy it's my love affair of the country that that i i worry about um you know for our company as a separate entity obviously there are things that that that i would love to see happen um free trade in Europe.

15:10Because you've got a big portfolio. You've got a lot of stores. Big portfolio in Europe. And it's not easy to do business as a British company in Europe. Still, even whatever we are, nearly a decade on. Nearly a decade on. I've got four, currently today, four million pounds of trapped cash through various tax authorities that's owed to me because it's so difficult to move products, you know, in and out of Europe. And, you know, this is something that's been going on for a long time and it takes a lot of energy and it it just makes life hard to to deliver and and you know i'm gonna i'm gonna speak about brexit for two seconds free trade is an essential part of of modern society we need to embrace it so for us to close that down in our biggest market was was an insanity we're talking about inflation on a constant basis this week, we're talking about sort of beef inflation at 40%.

16:07The dollar and the pound relationship crashed when Brexit took hold. What that means is that the pound is probably 20 % below the value that it should be. If we were in a free trade deal, the pound would probably be trading about 160. That means the cost of all goods in this country would come massively down in price. isn't that something that we would all love to see when we're worried about where we sit in in in a global economy you know we've we've gone backwards i i am incredulous that this government and any politicians dance they just dance speak about about the obvious truth we need to go back into some kind of free trade deal our economic woes won't disappear but we will be a lot richer in a few years' time based on that single decision.

17:04Now, there are other decisions that need to be made in terms of tax and this, that and the other, but that is the single biggest decision that this government could make that would change people's lives. But there's no way that the European Union, from their perspective, forget what we would like to do as a country, there is no way that the European Union would allow us to rejoin some kind of free trading zone unless we signed up to other things that were beneficial to them as well. And those are the things that people have concerns about. OK, but let's be truthful again. So what you're talking about is probably immigration.

17:35Well, that's certainly one of them, isn't it? But other things as well, shared pooling on defence or all those other things that people worry about. So, you know, we're in control of certain things that we're allowed to do and not allowed to do. But we have to go back, you know, back to pre-Brexit days and say, what was the immigration influx per annum? It was, you know, what was it, 200 ,000? since Brexit. We're now at, what, 800 ,000? 850 ,000, is it, currently, or last year? So let's not pretend that Brexit has delivered what the public thought they were getting. And that's the honest part of this conversation is they thought they were getting more money for the NHS.

18:14They thought they were going to cut immigration or have a sensible approach to immigration, they've had the complete opposite. So it just simply isn't true that the one is linked. And the idea that we can perhaps go our own way on things like tax and that perhaps we've also benefited in terms of trade deals with the United States and things like that as a result of being outside the European Union, you don't think that's counteracted that from what you seem to be saying? Absolutely impossible to even contemplate that it hasn't cost the average family about, what, 1 ,600, 2 ,000 pounds. You know, it's serious money that this is, you know, it's circa 5 % of GDP.

18:53So every single family has paid the price of Brexit. Well, round us out on Brexit then. What do you think? The government's talked about resetting relations lots of times, hasn't it? And in fairness, have travelled and have tried to talk with the European Union. What do you think are sensible and realistic things? Look, I think a free trade deal is there to be had. And I think we've got to start with that premise and then work out where else we can go. But, you know, like I said, so many of the other things that were promised just simply haven't happened. And we have to have a strong economy to afford all the things that we want to do.

19:27And I'm sure, unfortunately, we're going to have probably very blunt tax rises coming shortly because we're not thinking in terms of bigger picture possibilities. and I find it deeply sad because you know we want to be a better society and I don't think we've got any benefits certainly no trade deal has has benefited us to any extent otherwise we'd all be richer you have to see where we are relative to the Irish GDP over the last five or six years I mean you know crazy and evidently yeah that backdrop that you're talking about whichever side of the Brexit vote you were on has led to this kind of sort of, I guess, the lack of confidence, the malaise, the frustration, the nothing seems to work kind of feeling that whatever your political persuasions are, I think lots of our listeners are feeling at the moment.

20:18And the high street not being immune to that either. So as someone you were saying earlier, you know, a self-confessed lover of literally the high street itself as an experience, The high suite, yes. What do you see as ways to change that to make people feel confident, places people want to go to? Okay, so let's take, for example, I mean, there's quite a few policies that I would bring in. One, there needs to be a simplification of the rate system. So the rates need to be a percentage of the rent paid, full stop. Just make it simple because the whole rating process is so backward and so impossible to predict.

20:56Make it national rather than being – Make it national. Exactly that. Make a national decision about its – what is it? 30 % of the rent paid. Something of that order. Make it easy for everyone to understand. All your sort of rent appeals process will disappear. And those sort of ambulance-chasing companies that are trying to do rates appeals all the time would disappear. But we as businesses would know where we stand. And that's number one. Would that only work, though, just for bigger companies like you, though? No. Would it affect the smaller – It affects everybody. It affects 30 % if you're a smaller company.

21:29It would be quite a big chunk of your rent. Of the rent payable. It's a fixed amount. Yeah. So the rent will adjust to make it. Yeah, obviously. So the rents and the rates together you consider as your static overhead. And at the moment, there are some stores in the UK where rents are virtually zero, but the rates are still prehistorically high because they haven't caught up with today. So I feel sorry for landlords. in that circumstance because they're making it impossible for them to, you know, make the right decisions. So that's one. I think we have to use the tax system to say, what do we as consumers want to see on the high street?

22:14We're really in danger of getting rid of chefs and restaurants and hospitality that has a sort of restaurant base, the costs incurred in, you know, it's so labour intensive to run a food outlet. The differential between buying food at home and buying food in a restaurant is 20%. That needs to be 10 in line with France and Ireland. We've all done this already. This isn't something that isn't done. Just food, not alcohol. you go okay this needs to be 10 % VAT we can cope with that we can absorb all the other costs if we have that done what we're what we're in danger of doing now is losing some fantastic hospitality venues and does retail need do they go hand in hand good hospitality high streets absolutely need food vendors we need restaurants we need places that that and towns that's what people love you know another restaurant opens in your town brilliant what a great you know great for everybody and then well just on that just use just use home as an example because because i know cheltenham fairly well as well it's changed massively yeah hasn't it that sort of dynamic in the town centre there has that been detrimental do you think to the town centre full stop that you haven't got that retail and food and bar kind of offering all going along hand in hand together that some are up and down at different times um so cheltenham is actually better off than than most environments.

23:41But, you know, it has become incredibly difficult to even consider opening or maintaining. I can't remember what the bankruptcy rate is, but it's absolutely enormous in this sector. So what we need to do is say, look, we're going to celebrate food. We appreciate the amount of employment and, you know, taxes through employment that are paid. Like I say, it's not about alcohol it's about food it's about chefs it's about real chefing and it's about town center vibrancy that's one another is is an is for me probably the greatest insanity of of of simple home policy if you like when we come to building houses in the uk we subsidize greenfield house building it is a zero percent vat rate on on house building on a greenfield site if i want to develop in town i want to convert an office if i want to build in a town do i or you know if it's not a an empty space do i get help no i have to pay vat so there's this there's this weird kind of lack of vision about releasing entrepreneurs in town centres.

24:59And the reason is, I think, because the lobbying of the big four or five house builders said, oh, we'll fulfil your demands. Let us build and help us to build half a million or a million houses on greenfields. That's not what this country needs. You know, I came through Swindon Station yesterday. Two massive office buildings been derelict for 10 or 20 years huge swathes of brownfield empty space in the town centre why aren't we incentivizing people so it could be five percent vat on on greenfield sites zero percent vat in in or in in within the town centre environment so you know outside of london it's a very different picture go to birmingham go to manchester go to cardiff go to you know any sheffield huge swathes of potential house building to be had in a town center different kind of people doing the building and i think that's the issue let's release the entrepreneurs maybe give them an incentive maybe say not only is it vat free for a while but actually we want to boost the economy we want active activity let's say corporation tax or tax on that on the on the sale of that is slightly less for a period maybe give it a two to three year period of slightly less sales tax when people actually have developed the property and then then you stimulate activity as well so you're you're you're delivering two moments in time you're you're helping the economy grow but you're also really delivering a bit more of a vision of what Britain should be, which is a vibrant town centre, unless, dare I say, cookie cutter houses, you know, that are destroying our countryside and make us a slightly soulless, you know, tourists don't come to see, I won't name any house builders names, but modern houses in a green field, they come to see a vibrant town centre.

27:00So everything is linked to a vibrant town centre. So that's the important factor here. You know, do people enjoy living in Britain? Do tourists enjoy coming to Britain? You know, what is our vision for 20 years hence? What kind of country do we want to live in? And I find that fascinating. On tax, or one that doesn't exist yet. Last time we had you on Wake Up To Money, about a year ago, actually, you were talking about this loophole de minimis yeah the shein and temud in particular yeah i'm probably gonna look the world has changed and this is this is one example of globalization which is you know happening and happened but the tax system doesn't seem to grasp what is happening so you know a certain enormous american retailer took advantage of it over the last two decades or decade and a half.

27:57We've now got Chinese companies doing the same thing. Now, I don't blame them. To be clear, they would say, wouldn't they? They're playing by the rules that are there. Absolutely. And I think this is one of our fundamental problems as a country, that we just don't tackle the obvious. So we've got to get to grips with, you know, probably a different way of looking at global taxation. There is always going to be a loophole. And you can't blame anybody for, you know, moving through those loopholes and looking for those loopholes. You can't blame them. What we possibly need now is if you are breaking the spirit of our tax system, then we can come after you.

28:43And I think we would bring in billions of pounds into this country's coffers because we are watching global giants use a system that has been ineffectively put together or is not fit for purpose for today. And I think actually the spirit of tax is as important as the sort of minute details of can I do this or can I do that? I often think when there's sort of tough tax choices, tough economic choices at a kind of national level, Well, that's difficult for some of the industries that you've talked about, yourselves in retail, hospitality, you know, the kind of immediate, what people call in the jargon, discretionary spending, spending on stuff that we don't, that aren't our bills, basically, as well.

29:28Do you fear a little bit for that, for the back end of the year and into next year, that we're heading into another period of kind of lower confidence? I think, look, Britain is having a tough time. And we'll continue to have a tough time until we make some sensible decisions about growth. So are we doing things that are going to stimulate growth? Have we made wrong decisions? So I know an awful lot of people that are leaving the country, an awful lot of millionaires leaving. Has that been calculated through? Do we really understand how million it is and what contribution they were making? We live in a global, you know, a world economy.

30:09If I'm not British and I'm paying tax in the UK on my foreign earnings, why wouldn't I move to Milan? So we have to accept that that's what's going to happen and adjust ourselves accordingly. We want to be attractive to people to come and live here. We want to be attractive to people who are contributing to society. And we've got that balance wrong, you think? And I think we've desperately got it wrong. Just think, from a political point of view, we do not plan our economy for 10 or 20 years hence. So we are not thinking, So I was talking about universities the other day, and you think in terms of doctors and nurses and how we've known for 20 years that we haven't had enough.

30:48But we don't train more. So we don't plan for whatever reason, the short term nature of government policy, the reactionary nature of government policy. You know, just think this reactionary way of delivering politics is not going to stand us in good stead. I only ask this because you're evidently passionate about it. but do you think there are enough business people in politics and what kind of puts them off I mean you're evidently interested in a whole range of issues beyond what affects you as a retailer what do you think puts business leaders off I mean there's none in the cabinet at the moment I can't think of any off the top of my head I think it's a tough the scrutiny the you know is it good for your family life you have to take that into account I would love to get more but my wife would kill me but that's got to change clearly hasn't it as well if you want the kind of change that you're talking about people with different kind of yeah i mean what's interesting is that you know politicians are they do they do they reach out do they do they come and say oh you've got an interesting point of view shall i should i listen not really really uh i mean lip service yeah i think there's a lot of lip service yeah let's finish with some trends on retail itself yeah please yeah so uh i was trying to think of a non-cliché but it really has been kind of a roller coaster super dry hasn't it as well you are kind of climbing up that bit where it's like ratcheting ratcheting ratcheting ratcheting yes um how do you keep it kind of going up again and you don't have another dip look we know who we are again as a brand fashion goes in these wonderful cycles and we're at the beginning of one so so these trends tend to last for about 10 years for young people.

32:30So we're at the beginning of one of these trends, which is brilliant. But I think the reality is when it was going wrong, the team that was running the company didn't love the company. And you do. And me and my team that I are now surrounded myself by, we love the company. We love what we do. We really genuinely love everything about the whole process of retail, the whole process of creating clothes, the whole process of building a business and being a factor, being a sort of family, which is how you build a business properly. And the company lost that kind of the right people in the right roles.

33:14There was a lot of box ticking to roles. And I'm much more, OK, you're brilliant. You're brilliant. Let's get this done. Let's do this. And that's what I've done. And that's why it's much safer if you like well you were obviously we talked about it earlier with that market cap a stock market listed company is that something you know are you happy private at the moment is that something you would do again would you need that liquidity again i never say never but i mean where the stock market was brilliant was when it was a clear rollout uh the moment there was a sort of hiccup in the rollout and the the business needed changing that's that's when it didn't work And I think – Because you can't kind of explain it.

34:00It's very hard. You know, a lot of share price growth is emotion, isn't it? So, look, I never say never. But at the moment, I'm just so happy to be focused on what I believe are the key components of making this business work. and probably doing thousands of board meetings and, you know, answering quarterly calls all the time. You know, that's not where I need to. It takes you away. So, you know, one of the reasons that the business is doing so well again or is on the path of moving to doing well again is exactly my time and just my ability to... And, yeah, you've also become a cider empresario.

34:45I have, yeah. So is that not a potential distraction? No, no, no. I've always done other business. I've started lots of businesses in my life. So coffee, pubs, hotels, records. I've done all sorts of things in my life. And I just love hospitality. So basically, Dunkerton's Cider, which we've just won the World Award for Best Cider in the World, has also become a bit of a retail, well, not a retail, an experiential park, if you like, where we put on events all the time. This is in Cheltenham? This is in Cheltenham, just on the outskirts. It's become a phenomenon for Cheltenham. It's just wonderful.

Read the full transcript

35:29So there'll be things going on during the day. There'll be things going on in the evening. We have sort of all sorts of food vendors, Filipino food. You can get, you know, bao buns you can get, burgers, you know, all sorts of Indian food. I mean, lovely food. all sorts of different vendors. So following the sort of street market kind of thought process, but making it just better somehow. And with cider, because what, you're a cider fan? So cider was my family's business, and I bought it from my family about 10 years ago, I think it was, and bought it to Cheltenham. And, you know, we've been growing it and growing it and growing it.

36:07Yeah, no, it's fun. It's exciting. And just is it a thing to just be fun and that you can kind of love? or is it something you really want to, because people like you get that bug, don't you? And you always want to kind of grow it. No, no, no. So everything I do is about growth, but I'm really focused on Cheltenham. I mean, Superdry is my love affair and then Cheltenham is my other love affair. So what can I do to make life better in Cheltenham? And I really enjoy doing that. I do love it. But I live there, so I need somewhere to go. That's as good a reason. Julian Dunkerton, founder, chief exec of Superdry.

36:42Thanks so much for your time. Absolute pleasure.

36:48So that was Julian Dunkerton chatting to Will Bain. Thank you for listening to our latest Big Boss interview. Subscribe on BBC Sound so you don't miss another one. If you want to get in touch with us, it's bigboss at bbc.co.uk, the best email address in the organisation. We'd like your thoughts, your reactions, your reviews, anybody you'd like to hear from in the future. Thank you very much once again. We'll catch you soon.

From the publisher

Julian Dunkerton co-founded Superdry and took it to a £2billion market cap at its height in 2010 - within years the company was fighting for survival, and in 2018 he walked away. A decision he says he regrets.  But with Superdry now valued at just £8million and looking like it might fail, he returned just one year later and wrestled back control of the company he set up, and began turning it around.  After a restructuring, renegotiating rent, and now a rebrand, Superdry has just turned a profit once again.

This is the story of that turn around.

In it he calls for town centre regeneration and a High Street Renaissance, warning that current policies and Brexit have left British retailers at a disadvantage. He highlights the economic impact of leaving the EU, citing lost free trade and increased costs, and argues that the UK has “gone backwards” since Brexit. In fact he believes a free trade relationship with the EU is possible, and also imperative. 

Dunkerton also challenges the narrative that young people only shop online, stating that teenagers value physical retail and social experiences, and credits this demographic with driving Superdry’s renewed success on the high street.

00:00 Sean Farrington and Will Bain introduce the podcast 02:30 Julian Dunkerton joins the podcast, discusses the rise of Superdry 05:25 Stepping aside as Chief Executive & company changes 06:35 Return to profitability 08:44 The turnaround and rebrand of Superdry 10:56 What makes a good shopping experience 13:20 Branding & product quality 14:42 Policy, Brexit & business challenges 20:35 High street policy ideas & town centres 27:24 Tax, globalisation & retail trends 32:13 The future of Superdry & personal projects

Presenter: Will Bain Producer: Olie D'Albertanson Editor: Henry Jones

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