The Exact K-Beauty Skincare and Treatments That are Worth Your Money with Dermatologist Dr. David Kim

0:00The following podcast is a dear media production.

0:08Welcome to Breaking Beauty, the podcast all about the breakthrough people, products, and moments in beauty. We're your hosts, Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins.

0:21Welcome back to Breaking Beauty podcast, everyone. We're two beauty editors turned beauty podcasters here every Wednesday with the breakthrough people, products, and moments in beauty. Hey, Carlene. We are here again, another Wednesday together. We're excited today because we're diving into a topic that our listeners are obsessed with. We are obsessed with. We can't get enough of it. Constantly trending. And that is K-Beauty. What else? We're all about covering trends, but we need the expert voices, right? To be able to shed light on what is actually happening, because there's so much noise on the internet about K-Beauty.

0:55And to break down and separate the science from the fluff, we have an amazing expert. We are thrilled to welcome a guest who truly bridges the worlds of dermatology and Korean aesthetics, and that's Dr. David Kim. Yes, and Dr. Kim is a board-certified dermatologist and expert in lasers, fillers, toxins. He received his medical degree from Stanford University and holds a Master in Public Health Nutrition from Columbia University as well. And he's really known for his signature subtle improvements that make a big natural difference. And as a native Korean, he travels to Seoul frequently to immerse himself in the newest techniques and treatments, bringing that innovation back to his Manhattan practice and on the Today Show, where I see him quite often.

1:40Yes, his mission is to educate the public about year-round sun protection. And that's what inspired him to create his award-winning SPF brand. It's called Lightsaber, and it launched on Sephora.com as well. And of course, we have to mention the big news. Dr. Kim is imminently opening his own highly anticipated practice called Soho Derm. So that's majorly exciting as well. And for our listeners who are tuning in to us, maybe for the first time, fans of Dr. Kim Discovering Our Show, we also are publishing this episode on YouTube. So follow us there, which is Breaking Beauty Podcast. So with all of that, welcome, Dr.

2:18David Kim. Thank you so much for having me. Thank you. So nice to meet you all. Yeah, you too. Let's start at the beginning with your unique perspective. You're going between Manhattan and Seoul. What is the biggest difference in K-Beauty's core principles and approach to beauty compared to what you see here in New York? There are a lot of similarities and differences. I feel like when it comes to K-Beauty or people in Korea who seek these treatments regularly, they are very focused on prevention. So they start from a very early age, mid to late 20s, early 30s. They start playing with different types of treatments.

2:56And there are so many treatments that are available overseas that are not available here, right? I feel like the U.S. is usually one of the last places to get the FDA approval, to get the devices here. They start with a little bit of injectables, like Regeron is so hot right now with the salmon sperm DNA. Everyone's doing it. Everyone's skin is so glowy and plump and hydrated. People start with a little bit of laser, like Pico laser for pigment or like a very gentle lifting devices like Zerf, Thermage, probably less Ultherapy. Ultherapy, people start doing it in their early 30s, mid 30s. in the US, I feel like people start to come see a dermatologist when they have a problem, or if there's something that they want to fix or improve.

3:38And a lot of people will actually, in the past two years, I will say more people have been coming in sooner, late 20s, early 30s, and they start wanting to learn more about different treatments and different options that are available and see what's appropriate for them. I think another big difference is in Asia, the looks that they want are a little bit different. They like more egg-shaped, heart-shaped, cuter, little fuller looks. Whereas in the States, they want more sharp, contoured, snatched looks. Whether it's the cheekbones, the jawline, the chin, or the lips. It's all about that bone structure.

4:13Yeah, exactly. So it's all about the bone structure. And I think the aesthetic goals are a little bit different. That's like carve out the cheek, all of that. It's like V, what do they call it in South Korea? I think the V-line V-shaped. Yeah, V-line sculpting. Which is not that different from here. But I think that's what everyone wants. They want their heart, their face to be heart-shaped. So it's a little bit wider. And as it goes down to the chin, that is a little bit narrower because it's a little bit more feminine when you look at that face. Well, it's interesting because I remember hearing one plastic surgeon on social media and they were talking about how actually if you look at a lot of really famous women actresses who in history have been thought of being conventionally really beautiful he was saying how if you actually cut off their eyes and just looked from the mouth down they actually have very broad jaw very broad jaw line yeah and i didn't realize that and then i kind of started doing that and i realized oh yeah that's a very that actually it's that back to that bone structure which to me is like the opposite of the the b shape yeah it is and it isn't because you need structure in your jaw to keep things more lifted right and so there's a balance and so if you if you over augment the jaw then you're going to masculinize your face but if you weaken the jaw by doing too much masseter botox for example to thin your face then you're not going to have the support and you're going to start developing jowls and so what is that delicate balance between using all different and lasers, and injectables to achieve that perfectly balanced look that gives you that shape, that gives you that distinct sharp jawline without masculinizing your face, if that's what you want, and then without having heavy gels.

5:57That's where you have to kind of balance different treatments. Right. Have you personally done the salmon sperm facial? On my face? Yes. I have done it, not as an injectable, but in combination with microneedling. Okay. But I was really, I didn't, I really wanted to do it. I just didn't have time to do it this past October when I was in Korea. And what's your review? It's so interesting. So Salmon's from DNA sounds new, but it's actually not new. It's been around in Korea since 2014. So it's been around for 10 plus years. And there's so much research around it. And they're actually now looking into other things more than skin, hair, joint health.

6:32So they're actually injecting into joints for hip replacement surgeries or any trauma to the joints to see if it can help accelerate the recovery. And there's a lot of research happening in Southeast Asia, actually Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam. And they're looking at how that PDRN can stimulate fat cells to produce younger fat skin cells, fat cells. And that's actually really interesting, too. And so it's not this like new trendy thing that started, came out of nowhere on TikTok. It's been really well studied. And it's by a pharmaceutical company called Pharma Research in Korea. And the Regron is a brand within that company.

7:12and they're heavily, heavily invested in innovation and research. And it's really impressive, actually. Do you think topically in a cream it's doing anything? So very good question. So even within Ridgeron, and I'm not paid by Ridgeron to see any of this. I'm not sponsored. But the injectable form is called polynucleotide. And then the cosmetic form is polydeoxyribonucleotide. So they're slightly different. And then the molecular size is slightly smaller for the cosmetics so that it will actually get absorbed onto the skin. And then Rigeron has their own patent on something called a DOT technology.

7:50I think it's called DNA optimizing technology where they've done studies and designed the molecules to a size that will actually get absorbed to the skin. And so that's why polynucleotide has to be injected into skin. But PDRN can be applied topically. Okay. Okay. So have you ever brought back a PDRN product that you like? Of course. Like what? I mean, there's several different types. So Rigeron has a really good product called the Dual Effect Ampoule. I love that product. It's super hydrating. It's lighter in texture than most of their products. And it gives you a really nice glow. And it's not heavy.

8:27I have very oily, acne-prone skin. So I always look for products that are fast-absorbing, that doesn't feel sticky on the skin, that doesn't make my skin greasy and suffocated. And it's really hard to find products like that. I'm very particular. I can tell right away within five seconds if I like the product or not. So Regerol has a really good one. Dr. Regerol is another brand that went viral last year. It's developed by a pharmacist in Korea and their product is really excellent too. And they have this retinol cream that you can use at night that's also mixed with trinacemic acid, PDRN and retinol.

9:03And it's really gentle on the skin. So it's great for people who have sensitive skin. I think those two are my favorites right now. I need those. Yeah, I need. Sold. Yeah, you really did. Well, can you get them here? Can you get them here? Yeah, Amazon. Yeah, can you get them on Amazon? Say less. So affordable. That's the thing too about K-Buty. It's what's amazing.

9:37Skims is one of our show partners this week. Okay, story time, everybody. I must fill you in on the lore behind the Skims Fits Everybody collection. As someone who has a D cup, I was a little skeptical at first that a bra truly could be Fits Everybody, but I am in love with the Scoop Bralette from Skims. The full name is the Fits Everybody Scoop Bralette. First of all, I love how size inclusive it is. And I really love how shade inclusive it is as well. So everybody can find their version of naked or neutral. And it's just so comfortable. The fabric is buttery soft. It has a second skin effect.

10:16And the band, it's snug enough that you feel like you're really supported, but it doesn't dig into you. It doesn't feel uncomfortable ever. and the straps themselves. They're really skinny and they are adjustable. So they don't dig into you at all and you can get your exact fit. I love to wear it underneath sweaters. And I also appreciate that you can wear it all season long, even if you have tank tops. It's just a brilliant design. Honestly, I love this bra so much. I have it in like three colors. So if you want to try Skims yourself, you can shop Skims Fits Everybody Collection at skims.com.

10:52After you place your order, be sure to let them know we sent you select podcast in the survey and be sure to select our show that's Breaking Beauty in the drop down menu that follows. And if you're looking for the perfect gift for your Valentine or for yourself, the Skims Valentine shop is now open. We'll link to this URL in our show notes and on our website. Now back to the show. Have you ever heard the saying, tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are. I'm Katie Lee Beagle and I'm food obsessed. Tune into my podcast All on the Table and get to know celebrities, bold-faced names, and industry insiders in an all-new way as they share the ingredients that make their recipe for life.

11:32I want to know it all, from the favorite childhood birthday cake to the breakfast they eat every day, an engagement meal in Paris, or a guilty pleasure fast food indulgence. You can tell a lot about a person by what's in their fridge. And hey, everybody's got to eat. Make sure to tune in every Thursday and follow so we can devour every last morsel together. We're putting it all on the table.

12:06So let's talk a little bit about glass skin. Is that still an aspirational thing to have in K-Beauty? Yeah, yeah. Or is it kind of that? Is that dating now? It's going to be on to something else. Yeah. I feel like glass skin is always going to be in. I feel like it was in when my parents were in their 20s. I think it would always be around. It just means like glowy, even, plump skin, hydrated skin, right? Who doesn't want that? I want that. I don't want to look shiny and greasy, but I want to look plump and hydrated and rejuvenated, right? And I think that's what always people want. And it's going to require a combination of different skincare and treatments to really achieve that.

12:45but I think one ingredient exactly there's no not one ingredient right there's no trick there's no one treatment that will get that give that to you you have to do your research you have to do you have to use the products and find the products that really work for your skin yeah I do find that for myself like the lasers have been game-changing in the way of like evening out my tone yeah I do the XLV and broadband light. And I feel like those have been game changers. You mentioned Pico laser. What's that? I need to do that. What is that? Pico laser is great. Do I need to do that? I think everybody does.

13:24Everyone, a lot of people do it in Asia. It helps with pore size, also helps with pigment. So, you know, when you have pigmentary disorders like melasma, it's really hard to do laser treatments in general because any heat and trauma can actually make melasma worse. So number one, you have to prep your skin. You have to be on a brightening skincare regimen, especially if you have darker skin, at least for two to three weeks so that your skin's prepped. And then you can do a gentle laser and then eventually work your way up. That's what I do. That's how I approach it. I start with a conservative treatment.

13:57And then the second time, the third time, I will increase the energy each time because now I have a reference point, right? Instead of just blasting someone's face, which can potentially make your melasma a lot worse. And when you have a lot of pigment, you have to be really careful. Sometimes laser is actually not the answer. Having a really good skincare routine with prescription creams and over-the-counter creams can make your melasma a lot better than doing laser treatments because laser treatments can actually make it worse. And there are so many other things. Trinazomic acid, you can take it as a pill as well, which is so widely done in Asia and Europe too.

14:31and more people are doing it here today in the States too. Have you heard of transomic acid as a pill? Yes. Not as a pill, I'm sorry. We were going to ask you about this. Yeah. Because Jill, you were saying you were on the Olive Young website, right? And they had like a whole section for... On transomic acid. Yeah, whereas it feels like, well, just like supplements and stuff, whereas it feels like Sephora has kind of been like, we're out, not interested. So there's definitely a distinction there. Yeah, it's interesting. supplements we definitely need more evidence there's just no like clear science behind it but i'll tell you i have a like a 78 year old uncle in korea who takes supplements collagen supplements every day yeah he looks great yeah it's all anecdotal really more than research based but we all know food diet lifestyle makes a huge difference right so i think the key here is to not look for a quick supplement or a quick fix because that never really works.

15:31It's not sustainable. You really have to really change your lifestyle. You have to exercise, eat healthy, stay out of the sun, wear sunscreen every day, have a skincare routine, whether it's three steps or 10 steps and then really be consistent with it. I feel like that's key. So boring, but yeah. It's all the stuff that we've already known. I know, but nobody wants to listen. We're like, we need a quick fix in the supplement, please. Do you take any of those supplements? Like the transexamic? I don't know if I said that. Transexamic acid. So transexamic acid is actually a prescription pill. Oh, it's a prescription.

16:03Yeah, it's a pill. And it actually works incredibly well for melasma. So if you've done laser treatments or if you don't want to do laser treatments, you've done hydroquinone, but hydroquinone irritates your skin. Transexamic acid as a pill is a game changer. I even had a patient earlier today who was struggling with melasma. and the only thing that's worked for her is transomic acid. But, and all the dermatologists know this, but transomic acid can increase your risk for clot formation. So you have to do a screening test. You have to make sure that you are not genetically predisposed to forming clots.

16:37And some people don't do that. I think it's really crucial that you do these screening tests because I had a patient who was very healthy. She was a young female, struggled with melasma. And I did my routine test. And sometimes I do think, is this an overkill? Is this really necessary? And she had a mutation called Factor V Leiden mutation, which is a pretty rare mutation. And it's usually subclinical, meaning people will go through their entire lives without knowing that they have that mutation. But if they go on birth control, smoke, have history of migraines, or go on a medication like trinthemic acid, it can tip them over and it can increase your risk for clot formation.

17:16And you don't ever want to take that risk, right? So then do the screening test. if you are clear, then you can take this medication and you don't take it all year round. You just take it during the peak summer months. So June, July, August, September. Oh, interesting. And it will prevent your melasma from getting darker, bigger, worse. And then when you come off of it, it will have lingering effects and your melasma will get so much better. Whether it's on your cheeks, on your forehead, on your mustache area. And then obviously you have to be consistent with the skincare too, but that will make a big difference.

17:49Yeah, so that's by prescription only. Prescription only, yeah. I wonder if it's in Canada as well. Do you know? I'm sure it is. Yeah. I'm sure it is. Yeah, because it's available here. I haven't heard a lot about it. That's great. I know people with melasma really have trouble finding a solution. But you will see it in skincare a lot. Oh, definitely. Topically. Topically, exactly. Yeah, that's interesting. I'm literally Googling the Health Canada right now. Available, yeah. They are prescription only, but they are available. Okay. It's usually 650 milligrams once a day. Yeah. Okay. Very cool. oh oh interesting it also helps with nosebleeds yeah okay and that's why it increases your risk for clot formation yeah because it clots your blood right yeah so is it like essentially reducing the blood supply to like the melanocytes or something yeah and and then it's like not going to pop up she's so smart my gosh well you made that connection like right away on the spot that was quite incredible actually yeah because we don't know exactly how it works and why it works for melasma.

18:48But one of the theory is exactly that, that it will reduce circulation to your melanocytes. And that's why they're not as active. Yeah. Okay. Okay. Good tip. Well, we're going to keep going on the ingredient train. I do want to ask you about glutathione though, because is it a master antioxidant in your mind when it comes to a skincare ingredient? I did get sent a line by a doctor like a year ago or something it was all around glutathione which was pretty unique yeah and actually one of the products that it included was a spray that you were meant to spray i guess like on your stomach or something for stress marks or for no for like trans absorption like yeah like the way that dr dandy sprays magnesium on her belly right okay it was like that oh no way how does that work i don't know you tell me it must be the formulation right like i guess yeah it goes back to the size of the molecule but and it's a liposomal encapsulated molecule so that it gets absorbed better on the skin yeah but it's interesting that it maybe the spray must be just a delivery that it's easier to apply that way but because for things to be transdermally absorbed better usually it comes in this form of patch yeah right because it has to stick to your skin for a while because things don't get absorbed right away right but glutathione is an ingredient i think it's a great ingredient it does have brightening effects no one knows exactly what you know how it says transomic acid four percent glutathione doesn't have like a very specific range of percentages that that it should be required to have the brightening effect clinical yeah yeah as much but i think it's like i mean And now you see NAD, like in skincare.

20:35And I think it's just a very buzzy, trendy ingredient. But guess what we were going to ask you next. But is it going to really stay and stick around? I don't know because there's not. Traditionally, if you look at all the ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol, transomic acid, PDRN, the ingredients that stick around are the ones that are really well studied. It's based on evidence and science. All the other ones are just very trendy. They come and go. Even snail mucin, people don't use it as much anymore. It was so hot for five years, three to five years. It doesn't have as much research as all the other ingredients.

21:11So it does have skincare benefits, but does it have longevity? I'm not sure, right? Yeah, well, all the ingredients had to start somewhere. So I feel like you're right. We just don't know yet. Have you guys read the original papers for SkinCeuticals vitamin C study? If you look at the original study, it was done at Duke. and by a scientist and in the 90s and there are multiple papers like vitamin C, YL, ascorbic acid and then they add vitamin E and ferulic acid and they, it's like so easy to follow because this was so beautifully well designed and that's why it has this longevity. People are obsessed with it and they use it and they have a cult following and it makes sense because it's based on science.

21:52All the other ingredients, maybe they will have that robust research and evidence eventually, but time will tell.

22:08Nutrafol is one of our show partners this week. At the start of every year, people are hit with the same message, new year, new you. But what if you didn't have to reinvent anything? What if real change was already happening quietly, naturally from within? And that's exactly what Nutrafol believes, that hair growth doesn't come from quick fixes or unrealistic timelines. It comes from building a routine that nourishes your body with what it needs consistently over time. And Nutrafol is the number one dermatologist recommended hair growth supplement brand trusted by over one and a half million people.

22:44Plus so many dermatologists on our show over the course of many years have recommended Nutrafol as well as tons of hairstylists. And I personally love the fact that when I'm on my Nutrafol routine, I take the women's formula. I notice less shedding, absolutely. So the hair that I have, I keep it for longer and it looks visibly thicker. And Nutrafol's hair growth supplements are peer-reviewed, NS certified for sport and clinically tested to measure improvements in growth, quality and strength. Love to see those clinical tests. So if you want to try it for yourself, we have a very special promo code.

23:22See thicker, stronger, faster growing hair with less shedding in just three to six months with Nutrafol. For a limited time, Nutrafol is offering our listeners $10 off your first month subscription and free shipping when you go to Nutrafol.com and enter the promo code BREAKING. Find out why Nutrafol is the best-selling hair growth supplement brand at Nutrafol.com spelled N-U-T-R-A-F-O-L.com promo code BREAKING. That's Nutrafol.com promo code BREAKING. We'll link to this offer in our show notes and on the website. Now back to the show.

24:01let's talk about spicules okay is this legit the cica read all of it all bt cosmetics the cica the spicules yes it's it's legit but you have to be really careful because they have like five different strengths like 50 100 300 700 and i think there may be a thousand so i can only personally tolerate 50 and 100. So 100 means it's designed for you to use every day. 50, I think it's twice a day, morning and night. And the spicules do go into the skin and they're designed to be smaller than the size of your pores and they will help deliver the products better. And can we just get a recap on what the spicule is?

24:41If you look at it under microscope, it looks like a needle. Yeah, daggers. Yes, exactly. Yeah. But like little needles, it's not going to have the same effect as doing an in-office treatment with microneedling or microneedling with radiofrequency. But if you have large pores, if you have really sebaceous skin, if you have oily skin, and if you want to deliver your skincare products better, then it does help. You just can't overwhelm your skin with that and retinol and salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide and all these things all at once. You got to rotate and you got to give your skin a break. So the spicules one, are they all made from that sponge or are they made from different things?

25:20Oh, I actually don't know where they're made from. Because there's one that we tried that was the spicules were made from some kind of sponge. Oh, I think you're right. It's like a freshwater sponge. And that's what creates sort of those little. Crystalline. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And that's why they say like it's safe for the skin or whatnot. The one that we did was like a professional line, but then they had an at-home one. And so it was the different degrees, like you said. What did it feel like? The one that I, so this is what I'm wondering for you, because I tried the professional one with an esthetician and it was like, it felt like crushed glass.

25:55Like she was massaging it in my skin. And I was like, I swear to God, my face is bleeding. Like it felt like crushed glass. But what about you? What are these things feel like? These Riedel shots? They're very spicy. Yeah. you feel just spickly you have this like spickly spickly is that a word let's go there let's go with it sensation and it tingles and it lingers on for a little bit and i have but it does not feel like crushed glass no no not to that extent maybe if you use a really strong one i'm just like i'm just not gonna go there the 700 i think you're supposed to use it once a week but i am a strong believer in doing something that's gentle more consistently than doing something really harsh and aggressive once a week.