Right Way to Apply Moisturizer – Serums, Underarms, Tanning, Dark Neck | FO369 Raj Shamani

17 Jun 2025 · 1 h

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In short

Podcast Episode Summary: Figuring Out with Raj Shamani - Episode FO369

Podcast Overview

  • Title: Right Way to Apply Moisturizer – Serums, Underarms, Tanning, Dark Neck
  • Host: Raj Shamani
  • Guest Expert: Dr. Geetanjali Shetty, Consultant Dermatologist and Cosmetologist
  • Main Focus: Discussing skincare routines, addressing common skincare mistakes, and emphasizing the importance of moisturizers and sunscreens.

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Key Points Discussed

Introduction (00:00)

  • Raj Shamani introduces the episode and guest, Dr. Geetanjali Shetty.
  • A brief mention of the importance of daily skincare and the common mistakes people make.

The Importance of Moisturizer (06:52)

  • Moisturizers are essential: Less than 20% of people use them, but everyone should.
  • Dehydration factors: Lifestyle choices like smoking, insufficient water intake, and stress contribute to skin dehydration.

Common Misconceptions (15:16)

  • Many believe sunscreen is unnecessary if they are indoors or for short durations outdoors.
  • Cumulative damage: Even minimal exposure to sunlight can lead to long-term skin damage.

The Role of Sunscreen (20:26)

  • Sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB rays and is necessary even indoors due to blue light exposure.
  • SPF ratings: Importance of understanding SPF (Sun Protection Factor) levels in sunscreen products.

Choosing the Right Moisturizer (8:14)

  • Understand your skin type (oily, dry, combination) when selecting a moisturizer.
  • The significance of reading ingredient labels to avoid harmful components like sulfates and surfactants.

Skin Pigmentation (10:52)

  • Discussion on the differences in skin pigmentation between Indian and Western skin.
  • The obsession with fair skin in India and its roots in social perceptions.

Skin Health and Maintenance (29:13)

  • Importance of combining a balanced diet with skincare for better skin health.
  • How gut health and diet can influence skin conditions like acne.

Active Ingredients in Skincare (31:00)

  • Glycolic Acid & Lactic Acid: Their role in exfoliation and skin lightening.
  • Warning against the misuse of active ingredients without proper guidance.

Proper Application Techniques (35:26)

  • Correct methods for applying skincare products to maximize benefits.
  • Importance of layering products correctly: moisturizer followed by sunscreen.

Addressing Dark Areas (37:54)

  • Common concerns about pigmentation in areas like underarms and neck.
  • Suggested treatments for darker skin patches, including the use of exfoliating agents.

The Myth of Natural Products (45:20)

  • Discussion on the effectiveness and safety of natural skincare products.
  • Importance of consulting experts rather than relying solely on influencers for skincare advice.

Conclusion (57:20)

  • Emphasis on continuous education about skincare and the need for professional guidance.
  • Raj encourages listeners to subscribe for more valuable insights and share the episode.

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Main Takeaways

  • Daily Skincare Routine: A consistent skincare routine involving cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection is crucial for maintaining skin health.
  • Education is Key: Understanding your skin type and the ingredients in products is essential for effective skincare.
  • Common Misconceptions: Many people underestimate the importance of sunscreen, believing it's unnecessary indoors or for short outings.
  • Professional Guidance: Consulting dermatologists can help individuals navigate skincare choices better than relying on unverified online advice.

Call to Action

  • Subscribe: To continue receiving informative content on skincare and personal development.
  • Feedback: Raj invites listeners to comment on their thoughts and suggestions for future guests.

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This summary encapsulates the essence of the podcast episode, providing an accessible overview of the discussions and key insights shared by Raj Shamani and Dr. Geetanjali Shetty.

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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00Less than 20 % of people use moisturizer. Ideally, you should use a moisturizer to everyone. It's dehydrated. Your lifestyle is dehydrated. Too much of coffee, too much of smoking. Don't sleep in the night, don't drink a lot of water, travel, dehydration. A lot of people apply moisturizer and sunscreen. They apply it like this. Is that the right way? Is it the right way to put it in the hands of it? Now, you're putting it in the hands of it. The sunscreen should not be applied. The oil is being applied. You apply skin care. Which ingredients should be used for the right moisturizer? I've got some harmful ingredients like surfactant, sulfate, and farakine.

0:39It's not that you follow a brand. How much damage would it be if I go in 5 minutes? In India, we always have to believe the sun is a god. The sun is on the surface of the earth is very harsh. The ozone layer has been disrupted. you have a cumulative damage happening to your skin. What is the dark neck spots? What is the darkness of the neck? What is the reason? It's majorly because of hormonal disturbance. So, those who have PCOD, or those who are overweight, or childhood diabetes, or adult diabetes, or hereditary, or parents have it, we have it. This is because of that. Okay, tell me, as a dermat, you see, it's different from the look.

1:21So, We need a healthy skin. So we have a special series where we will talk about advancing skin health for every skin story with sensitive skin expert Cetaphil. When the talk of sunscreen comes, the maximum people say I don't go to sun, I don't have sunscreen. But what do you know? Only 5 minutes of your skin can damage your skin. damage हो सकती है और indoors भी आपको sunscreen क्यों लगानी चाहिए क्या blue light skin को damage करती है oily skin पे moisturizer लगाना चाहिए या नहीं और क्या natural beauty products सच में effective होते हैं यह सब सिर्फ scam है इन सब questions के answer देंगे हमारे आज के guest Dr.

2:11Gitanjali Shetty जो एक consultant dermatologist and cosmetologist Today we will know what the correct way is. How do you choose the moisturizer and how to treat your skin? Please watch this episode at the end and tell me in the comments. What did you learn from this episode?

2:36Which things are not going to be absolutely necessary for skin? So, according to my opinion, today's topic will be only talking about much more about the water. Sadly, no one understands the water in India. We always have thought of the sun. But the time was different. or pollution or difficulties or ozone layer disrupted because ozone layer disrupted the surface of the sun is very harsh you know what a common statement is when I say do you apply sunscreen you know what's the common misunderstanding people have the first thing is I don't go to the water I don't go to the water and this mind you not only comes from a housewife it also comes from a very high employed guy or a girl who thinks that she's always in the AC.

3:29But what I mean is something which is called as five minutes today from your parking lot to your office, from your office back to parking lot, maybe the place where you had lunch and then you hopped into your car. Now imagine it's five minutes one day. Added up to a month, it is 150 minutes. That means for 150 minutes at 1.30 when you stepped out to have lunch, you have a cumulative damage happening to your skin. How much damage would it be if I go to the skin for 5 minutes? sun. Don't think about 5 minutes. You multiply 5 minutes per month into per year and your age now. For example, give me some kind of logic or some kind of math.

4:05If I'm in one hour, how much damage will my skin get damaged? Is there some math? Yeah. Ideally, there's something which is called as an SPF in sunscreen that protects you against UVB. Now, the SPF 30 sunscreen that will protect you around 150 minutes. You multiply by 5. But there is something which is called as uva damage which is something which calls a say aging b say burning so uva and uva b were two lights that existed pa triple plus jo hoota is sunscreen ke upar wo uva a ke liye hota hai aur spf jo hoota hai wo uva b ke liye hota hai ab tum dono ko ndalte ho ek bottle mein tak sunscreen ke bottle ke upar likhah hota hai broad spectrum ab yya spectrum of light hai ab covid a gaya hum sab ne laptop kohla we started doing a lot of podcast like you're doing in a studio what are these light now these are blue light so now you have uva plus uvb plus blue light so if you really ask me the cumulative sun damage every moment you are getting yourself damaged me i am getting damaged fully okay so ideally now in the latest trend and the lifestyle that we are all living we should ideally also start using sunscreen indoors the earlier you realize this the younger you're going to stay now people don't get into see we are talking about people who understand science we are not talking about a huge sector of people and i'll tell you something beauty is something that everybody is bothered okay so every day if you see let's say 10 patients example so how many patients do you have to use sunscreen or do you know about everything about 5-6 every day every day 5-6-10 you're is it still that under yeah i'll tell you why because a lot of men and boys don't like it because it's greasy in fact i have kids telling it disturbs my game because if it goes into my eyes it burns so people still have to reach there unlike in the u.s where in every kid is applied sunscreen right from six months because american academy of dermatology says that you need six sunscreen right from six months of age till the time you die india me itna abhi tak consciousness aya nahi hai itni zarurat bhi nahi thi up to a time off late we've realized that in india also now we really need a sunscreen and in fact i was reading for the podcast only because of moisturizer sunscreen and all of that I don't know how true that stat is because there was no good research study in any study.

6:43It was just some random google fact. So I don't know I should quote it on but I'll just share it with you. Tell me if in your experience if it's true or not. Less than 20 % people use moisturizer. What happens? I'll give you an example. You keep a sucue sun-duty powder. And you keep a lotus powder hydrated and moisturized. is the sun below. It will be more damage. It will be more damage. Exactly. So, moisturizer becomes part of your regime. Now, I give you a cleanser example. You have a hard salicylic cleanser that you have seen in your head. And you have a very good, soft, hydrated cleanser that will be more damage.

7:26The hard skin. Exactly. So, now, your type of skin, normal, dry combination, is what is your age, your profession, how much you live in the deep, which cleanser you use to go out, or not? This is everything that comes into your health of skin. So, do you use anything to do with your skin? If you have mood, I think everyone does. Okay. How many people use cleanser, how many soap use? Today, OTC products, many people used to use cleanser. Because people have OTC and advertisement because of this, now I have to understand I got a mood because of my skin, my skin is bad. So, that's the orientation.

8:05Today, I'm trying to get a lot of water. And I'm very happy because now everybody realizes that it's because of me. Okay, so sunscreen, 6 people do it. Cleanser almost up. I'm getting a mood. How many people use it out of 10? If you ask me, I'm talking about Mumbai. My practice is in Mumbai. out of 10 maybe 1 or 2 people think that I have to use dryness or else it will be greasy and oily because you are using a wrong form of moisturizer most of them land up using body moisturizer on the face so of course the body skin is thicker than the face, the body has lesser oil glands on the face a lot of pharma companies scientifically formulate facial moisturizers, very different that of the body and that's what goes in a humid city like Mumbai so humid city like Mumbai either use a moisturizer ideally moisturizer every person should use like humidity in the humidity if you have a moisturizer which all have to be in sunscreen then you don't need to use to use your skin ideally your skin needs hydration dehydrated dry skin and dehydration when you have dry skin you have to be able to dehydrate your lifestyle dehydrate too much of coffee dehydration too much of smoking dehydration 3 days from bed you don't have a lot of water you don't have a lot of water you don't have a lot of travel dehydration skin dehydrated burns easily if you have moisturized then at least externally you are preventing your skin from burning so a guy like you who is so young who's got an oily skin who's in Mumbai who's usually indoors honestly does not need an exceptionally different moisturizer if your sunscreen has it but if your sunscreen does not have a moisturizer as it is a physical blocker, it's zinc oxide, titanium oxide, then it's always better to apply a moisturizer.

9:58I'll use moisturizer at night. Summing up about moisturizer is also the way you wash your face. If you have an acne-prone face, you should use an oil-control face wash. If you're used an oil-control face wash, immediately after the face wash, you feel dry. If you're dry, then you leave it like that, and you put it like that, and you put it like that, and you put it like that, and you put it like that. Then you put a mustard, or half a pea-sized moisturizer damp skin seal the quantity used also matter and the way you apply also matters and after 5 minutes you have to layer it with sunscreen and that is ideally a skincare regime which is cleansing moisturizing and sunscreen the day you start using a moisturizer your skin starts looking younger suppler fresher less tired less dehydrated softness okay I have to get this conversation now where we talk about color okay because I'm obsession why is it like that some areas are dark and are completely different now skin type one is a type of skin oily skin combination skin dry skin and one is type 1 type 2 type 3 type 4 type 5 which is the amount of melanin like type 1 if you compare your skin you are very low when the skin is in the deep it burns quickly it burns easily so the first time you and I say we go to say we go to Maldives I would come back with the tan and you would come back with a lot of redness which then gets converted into tan now we do this every day you drive a bike every day you don't put sunscreen over a period of time your sensitive areas will first turn tan so maybe corner of foreheads your upper cheekbone where you have first fall we call melasma post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or tanning which is permanent pigment demarcation line where you have dark areas without any area, frictional dermatosis, like your elbows are dark, there are many causes of hyperpigmentation.

11:56But if you ask why it is, it is because of the cause of the pain. If you ask me what is pigmentation, what is the thing that you see different from your skin color, it is pigmentation. If anything is imbalance in your skin, or color changing, that is pigmentation. That is pigmentation. And what is hyperpigmentation? Pigmentation is very big. If it grows up, it's called hyperpigmentation. And all these causes, jesimilas, myocloplasm, my post-inflammatory I mean, if it's less, it's called hyperpigmentation. It's called vitiligo, or leukoderma. So, hyperpigmentation, hyperpigmentation. Yeah. Okay.

12:34And why do Indians have more pigmentation comparatively to Western world? Okay. So, Western world, there is no melanin. They understand how tan or pigmentation how does your body go to the water? First, you go to the water, you get triggered by signaling, you get to know that the body is in the water. The first thing that your body does is tries to put a layer of melanin. This is called as tan. Now, foreigners' skin is type 1 and they don't have melanin. So, where do you get melanin? Now, skin burns. So, if you look at their pigmented disorders, skin cancers, melanomas, commercial carcinoma, Bicillacill carcinoma type 1 skin Me a lot of the type 1 skin But in India you have this type of carcinoma Khabit not to see because In our skin there is a little melanin Which makes a protective mechanism Tanning is protection against skin cancer When the tanning becomes Severe or repetitive Then it becomes a pigmentary disorder In the past But if you go to go and tan You go to 28 days Because the skin cycle is 28 days So we don't say tanning نہیں بولے گے پھر.

13:41تو آپ tan ہوئے آپ ٹھیک ہو گئے. اگر آپ ٹھیک نہیں ہو رہے اور بار بار دھوپ میں جا رہے ہو اور آپ کا skin لال ہو رہا ہے. تب جا کے آپ کا skin burn ہوتا ہے. تب جا کے آپ کو یہ سب disorders آتے ہیں. اگر آپ south میں جاؤ گے اگر آپ karnataka جاؤ گے kerala جاؤ گے تو وہاں پہ آپ differentiate ہی نہیں کر پاؤ گے کی بندہ taned ہے کی نہیں because he's got a healthy tan on his face because اس کے body میں melanin بہت زیادہ ہے. people should know that sunscreen from the extreme line all these diseases what happens in your words like you have taken a word like carcinoma and all of that I will tell you something I will tell you any Australian or American cricketer they have lot of lines you know why skin this is my skin Indian this is a foreigner skin it is falling my melanin is coming up okay my melanin is making a layer my skin is tan UV is not going inside aging rays foreign skin has постоянно in the body partes - so in where there is a carcinoma fast railway what sort of carcinoma its cancer oh malignan Education carcinoma its cancer vessel cellie but in the U.S.

14:54its a very high beard skin cancer in India with both these every person colaam her hair andulated glarp fullness on areas but the

15:15but Indian skin tone is very different and I have seen top to bottom left to right

15:27comparatively to other countries we have a little darker skin tone which is wheatish right when it is standard Indian tone then India obsession that it's more fair and everywhere don't you think it's a mixed bag in India in West there's white and under black obsession but it's everywhere because India if you really see even in every state there's this skin color change that happens so Mumbai is a place wherein people have come from all across India and we are a mixed bag so obviously if your neighbor has a clear looking skin you somewhere want to reach there if you can and OTC and most of the players play the game very well.

16:09See clear looking skin different things. I'm talking sheer about the skin tone now. And I'm sure skin tone. People are want fairer tone. Yeah I'll give you a small example. The way I said you're tanned. Now the day you see an anti-tan skin cream it kind of excites you that okay my tan is going to go I'm going to become a better version of me. And does that happen? If you use right products then your tan will get out but your skin color never can change if your type 2 skin is never your natural skin tone never can change but India has an obsession because if you read a lot of things what extreme people are going to go in 2014 there was a case that a woman she hanged herself because her husband had a lot of dark skin tone then there was this one woman who got poisoned in food to kill five people in her family because they were sometimes complaining that your skin tone is very dark and dark skinned and these are under the age of 25 cases it has gotten to that extreme where we talk about killing or killing why you can see any movie and see it's a girl and a girl it's never about tall dark and beautiful girl it's always about fair and pretty so we've set our standards that way wherein it is a very bad thing I mean I see a lot of parents getting kids not for acne but it was very hard now it's dark it's very hard no one is so dark there's no dark there's a girl there's a girl there's a girl there's a girl there's a girl it's traumatic so the first thing that I tell is you'll say four times that you'll see your girl you'll see your girl so sometimes it is the mother who kind of gets this into the woman.

18:04It's always the woman who talks more about skin color. They kind of start feeling that they are not up to the mark. The mark and the boundaries which society has set for beauty. It is changing but we have a long way to go. How do we change this? I think a lot of now celebrities have embarked this job beautifully. Dark is in. I think we have a lot of people who are doing well who are dark in color. we've started embracing a lot of makeup companies are now launching ranges for dark skin tone yeah so i think we just are there and education makes a lot of difference when you know it's the melanin in your skin and it is genetic parents say what do i do but some parents say we are very gross how did this happen somewhere in the family melanin is an index which is defined by your genes unless you've been in the sun for a lot of period of time he or she has been a sports person and then tanned that's a different story otherwise skin color is a genetically determined factor somebody in the family is dark because of which unless medical emergency ho gaya hai ya baby kuchha ondice ho gaya tha uske baad woh dark ho gaya hai so.

19:14We talked about humidity and humid cities so winter weather's dry and winter versus humid weather's warm and humid in both these two types of pigmentation. because in a dry weather you are dry because of the climatic changes that means it the equator also makes a lot of difference so obviously if you're dry skin and you are in dutchia place you're going to burn easily whereas in a humid place especially mumbai is one of the best states to be in because it offers you a static weather throughout the year yeah that and winters in winters what pigmentation is if someone is in another place dry skin burns easily moisturized skin will take a time to burn.

19:56I have given you an example that if you keep a green leaf in the deep water and keep a green leaf or lotus leaf in the deep water then obviously the green leaf will shine a little bit and pigmentation later that is why people who follow a skincare regime age late and they get pigmentation later in age so moisturizer is must. Moisturizer is important if your sunscreen has moisturizer you don't have to feel greasy in a city like Mumbai Which one is your favorite moisturizer? So my, I kind of like the Cetaphil range, especially because they have a lot of gentle products in them. So you can safely give them in a lot of different age groups.

20:37So, like Cetaphil, there is Cetaphil cream, Cetaphil lotion, Cetaphil dam, which is for oily skin. So it has a lot of ranges. Cetaphil body has thick cream, Cetaphil moisturizer. So I like playing with Cetaphil because it's very safe, scientifically evolved. helps my patients through all age brackets and let's say don't use this or don't think it's easy or expensive whatever for any reason or we don't get for x y z reasons which ingredients should be for the right moisturizer so you basically have to check what is the moisturizing agent is it coconut oil in it is it macadamia oil in it is it got some harmful ingredient like a surfactant or like sulfate or paraben after this it is not that you have to follow a brand any moisturizer that is scientifically formulated scientifically formulated means that already checks are checked safety parameters are decided, the company has taken certification doctors are recommending it such is the product that you should look in the market it is not about the brand, it is about the value of the brand but usually all of you have written scientifically proven and scientifically formulated this certificate how easy it is here dermatologist's role is very important because he knows which products are safe and which product will see kind of suit your kid or probably kind of suit your mother one body moisturizer is not the same because the age bracket is different if you apply the body moisturizer you will get pimple and that moisturizer is not enough for your mom's age because there are oil control factors so knowing what to buy, which product where to put it, and how to put it this also matters.

22:25Because that's what your skin is changing rapidly and what to do the product behind you can you tell the product behind you what to do the product certifications what to do what to do the product behind you which are good products versus good products you have a sunscreen how much SPF is this is necessary need to be able to see how much more is. How much more is the PA++? For UVA protection. Is this blue screen against fighting? Because if you need to endorse your blue screen. How long you need to put it? Water resistant, sweat resistant, this matters also. If you have a sunscreen, if you have 5 factors included in it, then you have oily skin or dry skin.

23:11If it is dry skin, you need sunscreen lotion. If it is oily, you need sunscreen gel. should be. Formulations matter. And if there is pigmentation or colors are different, or freckles are different, whatever all the things that we discussed, if there is something also, then all the pigmentation cream that comes to the cream, are they effective? They are quite effective because they are natural ingredients such as turmeric or beta white or sabby white or tyrosinase inhibitors have a thing in their body which is tyrosinase enzyme. So many ingredients that are inhibited from this. So, the tan is removed from the cream.

23:54In this game of pigmentation, the right play of products matter very much. Balanced face wash, moisturizer, sunscreen and what do you use? Active means serums? Active means retinol is active, glycolic acid is active, halodonic acid is active, ceramides is an ingredient. active ingredient is the ingredient that is active in the bottle if it is glycolic acid serum then it is active glycolic acid now you put retinol in the morning and you don't put sunscreen in the morning then you will damage your skin to your skin we bought online and dyeing cream what does retinol function do you exfoliate and turn over to skin this is why it doesn't come to the skin improves skin turnover.

24:41It means that it's a new skin to get on top of the skin. But in the process of you don't protect it with moisturizer and sunscreen then you can get retinol dermatitis or retinol burn to get on top of the skin. So you can take a product and get it at night. Now we have a lot of actors. Glycolic acid serum. AHABH is written. Her skin type is different. so if you add sensitivity to that he has so much product in the clinic because Alana said that he is doing my skin so his skin type is very different when he's masking at night at night, the scent is in thevicius or the cleaners or he doesn't have to shut down whereas you're concentrating down already, you're that kind of safety so you will not be z confused so I'm saying that all the active examining is he and he is behind he and he is not having him if he is above the BHA alpha hydroxy acid or beta hydroxy acid they are acids which are derived from fruits different sources like glycolic acid, salicylic acid pimples, lactic acid fairness, azelic acid there are different chemicals which are derived from plant extracts but does that mean they are natural?

26:01No they are chemicals that means they will bring a change into the structural integrity of the skin. It means it's active. It means it's activated in your body. It's a subtle product which I've said, is a safe product. Tyrostat, beta-stat, sabby white, turmeric which is known as curcumin longa, vitamin C which is known as ascorbic acid. These are safe. These are very safe, subtle products. These are not active. It's a good skin. It's a good skin. care, skin stress, moisturize, protection, sunscreen. So actives are harsh products? Actives are harsh products because they are supposed to work actively on one particular concern.

26:53So glycolic acid is what is the concern? Glycolic acid will usually work for acne, open pores, pigmentation, exfoliating the skin is the solution. So, today there are many reals are, many influencers, many people, doctors, dermatologists also make reals and they say, take it from pharmacy, take it from take it from the other side and glycolic acid. Take it from the other side and put it from the other side. If you are putting it, make it a point that it is made for your skin. What is the concentration? Put cream or serum? Combination of glycolic acid. Put it alone or put it with someone else. Put it in the day or put it in the night.

27:31Put it in the sunscreen, moisturiser because it is dry

27:37Now this is the science behind skin. You should know what is your concern and why are you buying the product. So understand that you don't have dermatologists. What is your concern today? Pigmentation, if my concern is my skin, is uneven or is there any problems? Why has it happened? You have to know the pigmentation because of the reason you have to know the cause. How does it happen? normally a human being knows that she gets her pimples during periods or she has eaten a lot of pizza and cheese so she has pimples every patient says that she has pimples always have pimples it has oily prone skin she knows that she has any moisturizer so she has pimples this is the patient's know but what do you have to eat pimples your gut directly influences your skin Harojik medium-sized pizza you start feeling depressed after 10 days but like you, there's a lot of products that make you want to eat it, it's appetizing the unhealthiness attracts you but after a while all this sugar and this caffeine backfires you in some manner or the other you cannot beat or take away food from skin a healthy diet is amazing hair with acne, direct relationship in studies have proved that there's nothing if you eat chocolate you eat chocolate, it means that you don't have acne because of it.

28:59Your glands are small. The gland is small. The oil heads are blocked. It's not the food. But because of PCOD, it's acne. Because of PCOD, it's getting quickly. That's what I've told you. Okay. So, which glycolic acid is for you? Which is correct? How is it correct? You can't know without dermatitis. No. So, dermatitis will go. See, not everybody needs a dermatologist. if you're wrongly using a product then it is always better to check with the dermatologist okay if you're not using a product if you're very happy with the face wash if you've you know ticked all the boxes of sunscreen and you're using the right face moisturizer i think healthy skin is enough to achieve not everybody goes to a dietitian cleansing moisturizing protecting so you know tell me who goes to a dietitian person who thinks his diet is not right or who wants to get either thin or gain weight.

29:55So that's a problem. Or want to improve performance. Or want to improve performance. I am a firm believer of always going to an expert. I feel rather than wasting money and playing with my skin or playing with my body, I always ask the expert. Agreed. Agreed. I would second that. I do the same thing. So glycolic acid, protection, moisturizer, lactic acid. What does that mean? Lactic acid is an ingredient that helps you to do melanin turnover. It helps you to make you fairer and detans your skin. So, you mean lactic acid gets worse? It gets worse. I don't use a word because you cannot become fair.

30:34You can detan your skin and make it healthy. Lactic acid acts like an exfoliator and it blocks the skin pathway of melanogenesis. Do you want anyone to take it directly from pharmacy? I don't advocate for it. I'm taking it directly from the actives. because your skin will react to the percentage. If you don't have a little bit, then you won't have any benefit. If you don't have a lot, then your skin will get out. So it's a fine balance between both. What are the dark neck spots? What are the reasons for the neck? So that's also called as acanthosis nigricans. It's called the skin that's well-weighted.

31:09It's majorly because of hormonal disturbance. So those who have PCOD, or those who have overweight, or have childhood diabetes, or adult diabetes, or it's hereditary. parents ko tha to hum ko hai ye us karun se hota hai there's a name for it acanthosis nigricans but men ko zyada hoti hai men ko zyada hoti hai maybe because of the thickened skin but there is usually not a lot of thing that men ko zyada hoti women also have it PCOD women are known to have it obesity is one of the major reasons why it happens and then diabetes and then other metabolic disorders and then PCOD and how can you treat this?

31:43so you basically use an active which is an exfoliator so first remove thick skin use something like an active exfoliators and then add a serum what serum should I choose something which has some advanced technology something like a GPT technology or a gentle bright technology which means 3-4 ingredients with this way exfoliate, skin lighten antioxidant and a new acid amad which will detain a little combination of 3 and 4 products together glycolic acid, vitamin C peptides daldiya so all of this together a company does a lot of research so when you go to any expert you find an expert solution and that is what comes in a bottle so a bottle will have things to get you a little one-tone shade lighter exfoliate you at the same time so it is a combination and that is what is called as a serum so in such places wherein the skin is thick you want to shed the skin lighten and then protect so you have something like an am routine and a pm routine which helps you in both ways.

32:47This specific advanced technology serum will be right. Which combination I'm using. If I'm using this I can go to sun or not. There are so many things. So if there's more concern then you would suggest dermate. It's an easy way once in a lifetime meet the dermate find your skin type find out what is your pain points find out what your concern is. Once you start liking the brands and then you can experiment yourself with those brands. You know, there's a big study which says most of the patients who land up at the dermatologist office is because of not using the product. It's because of using the wrong product.

33:25So these are ultimately chemicals. So ultimately when you kind of break your normal skin barrier and try putting in an active, that's when your problem starts. That's when pigmentation starts. When you've been rubbing it a lot or using a lot of home remedies. many people think the velvet thing is wrong or male and they are sitting and are gone when you do this friction it kind of increases more in fact there are a lot of illnesses which we put in the rural areas with the naryal core or nylon because of this the frictional changes this has started from the house friction during bathing is one of the major problems for body pigmentation especially in india because we believe scrubbing in the shower is a normal way of cleaning yeah we normalize it because it's a male it's a thin it's not thin it's not it's not it's not it it causes more harm to you and many people take a lot of harsh scrubs and face pigmentation you know, you scrub it in hope the pigmentation will be going to happen.

34:33Is that correct? See, scrubbing is not wrong but using harsh scrubbers, walnut scrubs all this is, it kind of disrupts the entire skin barrier. So, good companies make healthy scrubs with healthy beets that is not even hazardous to environment. Otherwise these scrubs, in some scrubs which are made up of plastic and they are an environmental hazard because they stay in an environment for a very long time so you really need to know what type of scrub which company how many times should i scrub and a lot of actives also act like an exfoliating agent these days i always feel treat your skin the way you treat your baby handle it with gentle care and love so if you have ever seen any skincare ad they don't even wipe their face you know they dab it why do you want to tether a very sensitive the most sensitive area of your face i mean you smell chili powder and you sneeze imagine your skin is so sensitive you go in the sun your skin starts sweating it's a sensorized motorized organ in your body protect it with care and it will function the way you want to function it quick thing because you talked about babies a lot of people when they apply moisturizer or sunscreen they apply like this and then they do it is that the right way that they put it in their hands and apply it like this when you're taking it in the hand you're wasting a lot of product these products are built in a very nice technology ways the product the warmth in your hand also kind of changes the ph of the product you have to take tad bit with your fingertip spread it evenly and then you know apply it now a lot of products so you take a very little amount and you apply wherever is your points of application and take a apply a thin layer.

36:23If it's a moisturizer you have to blend it because it goes on a damp skin. So you're kind of creating a layer on your skin to trap the moisture. You shouldn't do that. Now you need to use at least one tablespoon of sunscreen dot like fashion because you're trying to make a layer. Sunscreen should not be massage should be applied. So there's a lot of difference between rubbing a product Wicks, oil, lipsticks, you apply skincare, you don't rub and you don't massage. This is why I have a tear dermatologist who sits behind my patients. Literally tells me that the face is acidic, then you have to dab it, then you have to massage the moisturizer with the sprayer, then you have to apply the sunscreen in dot-lack fashion.

37:10Then you have to apply the sunscreen in dot-lack fashion. Make sure you have to put your face back and back and back. If you don't like sunscreen, don't put your sunscreen on the mirror. Then we give them the photo photo of the mask. You have to keep two holes and put velcro behind it and go outside. The bike people say that you have a UV protected mask, you have to wear glares and then a helmet. My treatment is an umbrella treatment. Don't put sunscreen on the mirror. You hate it, okay. I'm not wearing sunscreen, but go to the mirror. As much as I'm getting less, you'll be fine. I've looked everything like UV protected clothes, UV protected jacket.

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37:41it's another new market now you will protect mask helmet your aviators that's sun protection wear full sleeve sun protection it's not sunscreen you don't have to cover it for the bike another part of body which is very dark is underarms so underarms dark why do people so elbows dark why do people see these are body folds and god has made the body in such a way that the skin there is very thin and because there is continuously friction otherwise if it is not thin how would we fold how would the elbow extend the bone would have extended out so these frictional areas don't tear they kind of layer the skin one above the other it's called thickening of skin when the skin thickens it starts looking dark these are frictional dermatosis again you apply a combination of serums which has an exfoliator a free radical scammage there are multiple in the market should you put roll-ons which are in the market brightening roll-ons I am a big against roll-ons brightening roll-ons I don't believe in roll-ons at all why?

38:44I find them very harmful the scented ones especially the scent causes allergic contact dermatitis and a lot of patients come darkening after they have used these roll-on sticks see roll-ons are deodorant roll-ons which usually are scented and then there are these underarm roll-ons which are only for whitening and brightening and a lot of these roll-ons always have inbuilt perfume serrescence if they are created by a dermat recommended brand i am okay to use it that means they have natural ingredients and they are just an underarm lightener the delivery system is a roll-on but whatever roll-ons are now available in the market the delivery system is a roll-on with skin lightening agents with added perfume to keep you fresh throughout the day i'm not okay with applying a perfume directly on the surface of the skin we have an entire textbook on contact dermatitis of these perfumes they have phthalates they have surfactants they have parabens so i'm a big no against trulons so perfumes do you feel in the clothes not on the body?

39:47no no no not on the body not even here here sensitive it's sensitive it's a lot of patch it's dark it causes contact dermatitis it also causes something called as photodermatitis. Photodermatitis when you put something like this when you go in the deep and you get more skin like retinol like the perfume you put on your nose and it's dark as much area. These are called photodermatitis because of the product when you go to the sun you get more dark. I didn't know. I'm a big perfume person. Yeah, but never on the skin always on the clothes. Okay, as a dermatologist you have many patients from there how many people come to their concern?

40:34So, the majority of the people now who are coming in post-COVID are coming in overall. Because they have understood that they should be good to see detain and aesthetics where Dr. Shetty has changed my friend's friend or he has put filler or he was looking a lot aged. When he was in clinic

40:58So, you know, what I do in the clinic exactly? I take a whole history. I find out what are the concerns of the patient. I write my concerns. What should I do in this patient? What is my concern and the biggest concern of the patient. Like when I have to look young. Maybe it's not a problem for her. Her tanning is not a problem. So, we start working on that first concerns.

41:50Okay. sometimes patient get upset she gave me the same product what did she do i went to her for consultation she gave me the same product and they get upset about it if the product is good i mean these days we see a lot of international companies coming in and getting good products if the product is good scientifically formulated a lot of dermajs who have the product knowledge of that particular product and want to continue it so gurjot started cedafil for me so that was his recommendation and then I started using and then it has just become my used to thing. It's a lovely way of telling your patient what you're using is right.

42:33Your idea is like a traffic police. Your idea is not about changing the product. Your idea is about telling the patient is it right. Maybe helping the patient how to use it rightly. Whether to use it in the AM or the PM routine and that's how you can bridge that gap yeah yeah so he's directing you on what to use he's not trying to push expensive products there's another good quality in him that way if you could have definitely afforded something like an adapalene serum in some microzoomal technology and cytosomal way but you know sometimes it's the basic and so Tiffel talks basic skincare it talks about being gentle it talks about being safe so that is why all the dermates usually whenever you take the word gentle cetaphil gentle cleanser will follow up because you know cetaphil was the breakthrough which spoke to us about what sensitive skin is and how to maintain the skin barrier but tell me one thing okay because you have pointed out good point right all of a sudden all of a sudden in last two three especially after covid I'm looking at every place what are people doing these guys are always big in I think US when I was older I was very big Dylan I went there they were big I think they were from there so then they were very big so Europe they were big US they were big India I'm in the past 2-3 years and it's not just OTC I don't know in pharmacy or wellness wherever you can see it every dermatologist people are doing this people are doing this because Cetaphil has educated a dermatologist you understood they taught what sensitive skin was what skin barrier was sometimes it is the education that the brand gets to your desk you know you asked me why does a dermat choose a brand sometimes it is the science sometimes it is the education sometimes it is the brand equity you start believing in a particular brand because it has a lot to offer apart from formulation yeah and that gentle wala cheese Cetaphil owns it it owns it this is why they want it because I I went to a multi-billionaire house recently okay and in his bathroom I saw Cetaphil and I was like I would expect that a billionaire would be a different thing that would be probably that would be a unique boutique but he's using the same product and so you know the beauty about Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser is anybody and anyone can use it and it will never harm you you can use it as a makeup remover you can use it as a face wash you can apply it and just wipe off your face you can use it in a teenager you can use it in a kid you can use it with somebody with acne and that is how it broke the market because it came up with this unique product that could be used across all the age groups all the skin types type 1 type 2 type 3 all the skin variants oily skin combination skin it could do the same job because it brought this thing that okay we are gentle we are safe and you know when you read this words gentle safe you kind of reinforce that whatever you're doing it for your family as a father or you know as a husband you are getting safe products home actually safety has become a very big thing in the market So the moment you read organic, you need natural, you need safe.

45:58You buy those products. You read gentle. Clean beauty is the game. But sometimes I feel clean beauty is a bit of shame. It is shame. We learned that natural is something that will rot. They are not talking about a natural formulation. They are talking about a natural ingredient. So that's how it's playing the market. If it's natural, you have to keep it in the fridge. there are natural products which you really have to refrigerate but all products are not natural just because it has kumkumadi thylum or just because it has some kesar or saffron it does not become natural I have a small problem because I try to read everything and learn and my responsibility is becoming because a lot of people are saying I don't want anyone to go through any bad experience so natural products I love natural products I am all for it but but majority of natural products no guidelines and regulations so no one can do anything and because I come from a manufacturing background I know how easy to make anything and if you say that my pharmaceutical product you have to go through 50 ,000 tests and same thing if you say that my natural product my organic product you have a test and your certificates are very low so you can make anything so that's my little problem that's my good but the bad you got this very good topic you know natural products is a beautiful thing that can be used okay I'm not talking about natural formulations I'm talking about home care but you know what's the sad bit when you don't know whether lemon is going to suit you or raw milk turmeric is going to treat you that you don't have to eat.

47:50Now all this comes from Ayurveda. Now Ayurvedic doctor is the one who will tell you what to do and what to eat. Because in Ayurveda there are various formats. So if you love natural products, your doctor has to be an Ayurvedic certified doctor who can take you through. Okay, you have an oily skin, use fuller's earth. Okay, you have this, use this. okay you have this but by your own if you're trying to apply a or a lemon because some influencer is doing it is wrong skincare yeah so i'm a big advocate for natural products but i always feel there's a channel to get through on what is going to suit you you cannot keep trying everything a lot of patients come to me because of side effects of these natural products true natural products ph balance up and down you see aloe vera and put it on the chair in aloe vera there are 362 so many different variants the aloe vera has got so many types aloe vera bourbon denser is what is commonly used in most of the products that is available in the market now you have a aloe vera that is the aloe vera who will test it so they will come with a lot of itching in their face half of the people eat this aloe vera they will apply it on the hair I can give you I can write it it is a podcast for natural ingredient and what people apply you will see and tell that you know what you're talking about what's the problem how's it in the skin all these things because of your experience tell me what do you think what are the problems in you rate my skin 1-10 badly tanned on the forehead lot of open pores not seen you closely but chickenpox scars on the forehead not taken sunscreen seriously a lot of moles could be genetic losing hair not interested in hair care at all that's about it type 1 skin very fair lot of time indoors hardly burnt taken vacations burnt the forehead never gone back to applying a skin lightening cream or a or any treatment in the clinic i think okay interesting so one out of ten may say what would you rate the skin lovely skin tanned though maybe six on ten five six on ten second doctor who has just spot on set 6.

50:13Is it? Okay. You're right. It's... It doesn't bother you. It doesn't bother me. The day it starts bothering you know you should see a small kid with two acnes and then everybody's bullying. Oh you got acne, you got acne. You should see a baby who comes to the clinic and these days because of the environment thing and the diet and you know early menarche when the kids are getting up early on pimples are watching a lot from childhood. from 10-11 years old. Thanks to the western diet which we're eating, pizza, burger, cheese. So, to put kids in 10 years in a routine in a skincare routine is a big task for dermatologists.

50:50But you should put it? Of course, you should put it because pubertal changes are coming soon. So, why not put it? You have to protect the kid from the sun. You have to give them the right face wash. The safer one. That's your job as an expert. The idea is not a beautiful skin. the idea is healthily and safely taking the kid through the pubertal age so that the child doesn't make a bad the problem is mothers underestimate acne because they don't know that acne is bad and the bad will be in the face of the child and that will never be able to live seeking a skin specialist advice at a early age if you have a child acne is prone to be a disease all children don't come to acne I would be grateful if if people are going to take their child's skin specialist, who are authorized MD dermatologist, I think their life will be very easy.

51:42I was just quoting a stat that in the last podcast, that 10-year-old children start to start putting anti-aging products in the UK. See, but it is a lot to do with when kids and mothers start following online influencers, then that's a problem. Sometimes I feel you have to validate your you need to go to a dietitian even if I'm a dermatologist I still see my dietitian I still go and see my yoga expert I don't see online and do yoga I might just sprain my muscle Okay tell me as a dermat Do you see it as you see? It's a lot Do you say that you don't expect you don't expect patients that you don't see it from above perfect or not I don't have a treatment So patients that I am the same as your hair.

52:33And if it's not good, then? You know, you always enter a shop seeing the face of the shop. Sadly, in this country. So you always judge the person by the cover. So the first interaction is when the person sees me. The second interaction is when I talk to the person. The third is when the result comes. So it's very important to give a patient this faith that we will all be fine. it's a journey that you take your patient through but do you think if there is a dermat which looks very good and there is a dermat that is casually like in a hoodie randomly no makeup makeup never came never came never made the hair whatever and maybe acne is happening or hairline receding or hyperpigmentation all these people don't trust who will grow more I ask you this question if I have acne and if I have acne and if I can't treat myself then how do I do it?

53:40It's necessary because it's an illness you have to get yourself treated only then you can treat others I can't say this that you will come to my clinic when I don't have a face this is the first instance but everything does not sell by the cover a lot of patients who walk into my clinic come to my clinic because of the references that they get they have not seen me so i might be the ugliest person god has not made everybody equal but there are certain small things like maybe not having pimples you're grooming yourself well but not being shabby these are primary things looking decent is what i call not looking flamboyant is what i call looking good and decency is having a healthy skin a healthy hair and it's necessary it's necessary it's necessary for everyone you're a big corporate head or chartered accountant or interior designer this is also important in every profession it's time of selfie it's time of selfie it's time of zoom face everything maybe I don't do this I don't know yet see it also I understand it's your domain you have a lovely voice you cannot have a bad voice and do podcast I hope I've answered your question No fair.

54:56I agree. So you need to have a healthy skin. See you might be bald. Hereditary cannot spare you. But then you really need to have a clean scalp is what I'm trying to point here. It's all about healthy skin. Hygiene is important. Fair. I asked you this question because when I was first dormant at the end of the day, their skin didn't have so good. And their skin didn't have so good. I mean they glow a lot. I think he's my friend what you're talking about. So they're very ugly. I know. I know. I know. Right? And they glow a lot but they're ugly. and people ask if you don't treat yourself exactly how do you treat others we judge a lot in that time there was so much treatment there was no laser that's old timers get a new dermatitis look at them all tip top exactly you will feel shy in front of them because they have understood that to become beautiful it does not take a lot it's neither time or time it's very easy it's good right thing right time on your fare I don't get the result I don't pay the patient's follow-up fees wow it's a shame I'm not a practice I hate it if a patient is not counseled my minoxal counseling is 10 minutes my sunscreen counseling will take 10 minutes if the patient will come for any reason then you can also do counseling I have delegated this work I'm paying extra to all my doctors to make sure every person who walks in gets that knowledge about skincare that he's met me and started using sunscreen and he remembers me.

56:28So I have patients right from, I started my practice since 18 years. 18 years patients do come back because somewhere I think we touch their lives in the right way. That way. And I think clinical practice, medical practice is all about faith. Wow. Clinic is going to be filled. There are many people coming. Now you say this, you can make a pitch. No, no, no. Do you really do that with everyone? really do it with everybody anyone who's a patient please comment and let us know what she really does it god forbid that somebody is not better but there will always be people who are unhappy with you because they did not take care of your skin in those cases i can't help yeah being fair and not charging is such a whimsical thing no and you start dreaming that my skin is going to be all right no have you used your sunscreen if you've not how can a laser help you without sunscreen interesting here's my last question because we covered a lot of things but in simple words in easier way if you have to treat pigmentation to someone's, what is the treatment available?

57:33what can people do in the house? first of all, you can use sunscreen SPF 50 sunscreen PA++++ broad spectrum skin lightening agent in there so it's very good reputed company so you have caused prevent now you really need to see a dermatologist if you've already tried all the creams please visit the expert he and she will make a nice regime and then there are number of treatments like there are peels there are lasers there are some high-tech lasers in the market which help you with even melasma these days oral supplements have taken a big turnover now sometimes it is just that lack of D3 or that B12 because of which there's pigmentation on your skin get yourself analyzed get your B12 levels checked and I think you'll find most of the answers there knowing what it is causing is one of the biggest problems that a person faces with hyperpigmentation it could just be your morning walk without sunscreen yeah it could just be that 10 minutes you drop your kid to the school every day at 12.30 in the midsummer or it could just be one vacation or studio night one vacation or studio night so true thank you so much it was a pleasure talking to you same here we are so much knowledgeable it was a privilege being here pleasure is all mine thank you so much thank you I like that word where you said that every domain makes something important in our domain healthy skin and healthy bile matters a lot in our domain knowledge matters a lot if I don't research and I will of course you have an amazing voice it's very commanding thank you it's got its own power I can close my eyes and I know that this is Rajshamani's voice so you've become that voice with whatever hard work that you've put in but you've had that voice thank you so much for watching this episode now you have to do three things first of all subscribe to this channel because as much as you subscribe we will get better and valuable guests for you number two tell me in comments what did you feel good and bad so that we can repeat those mistakes and which guests you want to see back to our podcast so that we can take them and give you more value.

59:44And number three, you must have to share this episode with anyone. Because one conversation can change someone's life. I'll see you next time. Until then, keep figuring out.

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Timestamps:



(00:00) – Introduction

(2:39) – What Sunlight Does to the Skin

(4:02) – SPF, UVA, and UVB

(6:52) – Why Use Moisturizer

(7:43) – Cleanser vs. Soap

(8:14) – Choosing the Right Moisturizer

(10:52) – Darker Skin Patches

(12:34) – Indian vs. Western Pigmentation

(15:16) – Obsession With Fair Skin

(19:15) – How Weather Affects the Skin

(20:26) – Dermatologist-Approved Moisturizers

(22:29) – How to Read Skincare Labels

(26:23) – The Use of Glycolic Acid

(29:13) – When to Consult a Dermatologist

(30:16) – What Lactic Acid Does

(31:00) – Why the Neck Darkens

(34:26) – Are Face Scrubs Effective?

(35:26) – The Correct Way to Apply Skincare Products

(37:54) – Dark Underarms

(40:20) – Skin Appearance vs. Skin Concerns

(45:20) – Do Natural Products Actually Work?

(49:11) – Rating Raj’s Skin

(52:17) – Should Dermatologists Have Perfect Skin?

(57:20) – Pigmentation Treatments

(58:50) – BTS

(59:17) – Outro



In our fourth episode of our special series with sensitive skin expert Cetaphil, we have Dr. Geetanjali Shetty, Consultant Dermatologist and Cosmetologist, Trichologist, share the most common skincare mistakes people make without realising, from skipping sunscreen indoors to using body lotion on the face. She breaks down the impact of UVA, UVB, and even blue light on the skin, and why moisturising matters in all climates and skin types.

We discuss pigmentation, skin tone myths, and how melanin plays a protective role, especially in Indian skin. The right sequence of application, the importance of reading ingredients, and the difference between product use vs. misuse are also discussed. She also gives insights about skin cycle science, the effect of gut health, and how over-friction and wrong products often do more damage than good.

In the final segment, Dr Geetanjali talks about the darker areas like underarms and elbows, the concerns around roll-ons and perfumes, and how societal perceptions often shape the skincare industry, especially for professionals.

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About Figuring Out


Figuring Out Podcast is a Candid Conversations University where Raj Shamani brings raw conversations with the Top 1% in India.

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