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Podcast Episode Summary: This Is TASTE - Episode 228: Smallhold
Episode Overview In this episode, hosts Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard discuss the future of food, specifically focusing on fungi, with Adam DeMartino and Andrew Carter, co-founders of Smallhold, a farming company specializing in gourmet mushrooms. The episode also features a segment with Abby Endler, host of the podcast Criminal Types, which explores the intersection of food, crime fiction, and culture.
Key Themes and Discussions
The Rise of Fungi in Food Culture
- Smallhold's Mission: Adam and Andrew emphasize their belief that mushrooms represent the future of food production. They cultivate a variety of mushrooms including maitake, lion's mane, and blue oysters in innovative, aquarium-like tanks.
- Mushroom Trends: The duo discusses the cyclical nature of "mushroom moments" in popular culture and food trends. They assert this is more than a trend; it is a movement as consumers increasingly recognize the diverse culinary potential and environmental benefits of mushrooms.
- Cultural References: The conversation references The Last of Us, highlighting how popular media can impact perceptions of mushrooms, noting that while there can be fears (like those presented in the show), ultimately, any press is good press for mushrooms.
Understanding the Mushroom Movement
- Mushroom Characteristics: The hosts differentiate between fresh and old mushrooms, explaining the substantial difference in flavor, nutrition, and overall quality.
- Smallhold's Growth: Smallhold began as a basement venture and has evolved into a national operation, with facilities in New York, Texas, and California, producing over 60,000 pounds of mushrooms weekly.
- Sustainability: The episode discusses the environmental advantages of mushroom farming, including low resource use and the ability to grow on agricultural waste.
Food and Crime Fiction with Abby Endler
- Criminal Types Podcast: Abby introduces her podcast, discussing the behind-the-scenes of crime writing, featuring notable authors like John Grisham and upcoming voices in the genre.
- Food in Crime Fiction: Highlights include the blending of food and crime narrative, mentioning books like "The Golden Spoon," which combines a baking competition and murder mystery.
Personal and Professional Insights
- Working Relationships: Adam and Andrew share their journey as co-founders, how their long-standing friendship facilitates effective communication and decision-making within the business.
- Favorite Mushroom Dish: The hosts humorously discuss ideal signature dishes named after them, weaving in their love for mushrooms, mayonnaise, and fritters.
Key Takeaways
- Mushrooms as a Sustainable Food Source: Emphasizing mushrooms' role as a sustainable food option with low environmental impact.
- Culinary Diversity: Understanding that mushrooms can transform the culinary landscape, moving beyond traditional perceptions.
- Connection in Crime Fiction: Exploring how food often plays a significant role in narratives surrounding crime, enriching storytelling.
Conclusion The episode encapsulates a vibrant discussion about the future of food through the lens of mushrooms, the interconnectedness of food culture and crime fiction, and the personal stories behind the co-founders of Smallhold. The importance of sustainability, innovation, and the cultural shifts regarding mushrooms are presented as pivotal elements shaping the future of the food industry.
Additional Resources
- [The Mushrooms Will Survive Us - New York Times](https://www.nytimes.com)
- [Mushroom Boom Leads Brooklyn Grower to Plant Its Organic Farms in the West - Forbes](https://www.forbes.com)
- [How We Grow Happy Mushrooms - Smallhold](https://www.smallhold.com)
- [Anthony Bourdain’s Literary Legacy in 13 Books - Eater](https://www.eater.com)
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This summary aims to illuminate the discussions from the episode while providing a structured overview for readers interested in food culture, sustainability, and the intersecting narratives of crime fiction.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. Apparently, the first ketchup was a mushroom ketchup. Tomato ketchup, like, was later in the game. The first ketchups were a bunch of different types. People were just using different materials, but the most popular one was, I believe, in England, was the mushroom ketchup. You're listening to The Taste Podcast. I'm your host, Eliza Barbanel. The future of food is fungi. At least if you ask Adam DiMartino and Andrew Carter, the two co-founders of Smallhold. The new school farming company grows delicate maitake, spongy lion's mane, blue oysters, and more of our favorite bougie mushrooms in patented aquarium-like tanks and mega farms across the country.
1:19They're a favorite of Buzzy's, Chef's, and major grocery chains alike. So today we're going deep on this mushroom moment, dare I say movement, and how they're forecasting the future of fungi.
1:38Adam and Andrew, thanks so much for coming on the Taste Podcast. I'm stoked to have you. Thanks for having us. I feel like we're picking up a conversation we've been having for a while about mushrooms and food. For listeners that aren't familiar, I actually got to edit The Smallhold Cookbook a couple years ago. So this is an extra fun one for me. Yeah, it was a blast doing that. I'm glad to be here. To start, I have to ask, and I hope that you don't hate me for this question, but I want to know if you watched The Last of Us and what do you think about it in general? Yeah, I mean, Adam played it, so I'm curious.
2:13Yeah, I mean, I think it was an amazing show. But, you know, I think that we were pretty concerned when it came out whether it was going to be a bad thing for Small Hold and Mushrooms in general. But I think it's just ended up bringing more people to think about Mushrooms in different ways. So I'm supportive. To someone that played the game, do you feel like it's bad PR for Mushrooms? No, any press is a good press. For Mushrooms and in general? Generally. No, I think it was an amazing game. First of all, it made me cry. I cried. Because it was so hard? No, because it was so moving. The storyline was amazing.
2:54Did you watch it? Yeah, I still haven't finished it. It's been a pretty slow watch for me. Not that I'm not into it, just that I've kind of stuck watching it with somebody who doesn't have any time to watch it. But, you know, I already love mushrooms and eat them all the time. But I feel like when the show first came out, there were a lot of people talking about being scared to eat mushrooms and kind of things in that vein. Well, a lot of the people that I know that are really into mushrooms actually swear by that show. They tend to say it's generally pretty accurate, except for some of the molds in the beginning credits.
3:29Apparently, those are not as aggressive as they're supposed to be. Insider tip. I never heard that before. Yeah. But yeah, cordyceps, they really do be like that. They really do be zombifying people? Well, not for people. I think it's extremely unlikely for that to happen. You know, they talk about it in the beginning of the show that if there was warmer temperatures and these organisms evolved, then it might be possible. But it's, you know, and you have a science mind, you can't say anything's truly impossible, but it's just very unlikely that that would happen. I definitely think there are more possible disasters that might come of climate change than zombie fungi.
4:16Yeah. And I mean, what I realized watching that show is the mushrooms aren't the scary thing. It's the people. It's the people. Yeah. Well, I think it's an interesting time for the show to come out because I know something we've talked about a little bit before is that it seems that every, you know, a couple months, there's a new mushroom trend piece coming out saying, this is the mushroom moment in fashion or in design or in all of these things. And then another one comes out that says, no, actually, like this is the mushroom moment. And obviously it's always the mushroom moment for you too. So I'm curious, like, what's your view on the mushroom trend cycle right now?
4:48What stage are we in? Beginning stages. Still? Yeah. It just keeps going. I think that it's, It's, I think, I'm sure that the aesthetic piece of it will come and go, you know, people putting Omnita mushrooms all over everything, like the red and white mushrooms. But I think that there are just, there are many things that we haven't even seen yet. Like, I get really excited about, like, environmentally friendly eating and carbon friendly diets. Like I'm not, I don't necessarily do that, but I think that a lot of people will, and it's going to be a new trend that will emerge soon. And mushrooms really play a good part in that.
5:30I mean, they're really efficient to produce. You can grow them on waste streams. There's a lot of reasons to consume them that are just outside of the health and cool factor. and so not to say that I can see the future or anything but I think that there are many other ways that the mushroom industry and mushrooms in general can get even more popular than they are right now. Yeah, I guess there's still a lot of way to go. Adam, I'm curious, what do you think? Do you think that mushrooms are trendy and trendier than they have been? Well, yeah, but I'm totally going to rip somebody's quote off right now.
6:05So whoever said this first, I'm sorry but it's not the mushroom moment, it's the mushroom movement. And honestly, that's something I subscribe to. I guess I have to. But when people get into mushrooms, they're noticing another kingdom in taxonomical classification. So they're realizing that there's this whole other facet to life, which I think is hard to just call a trend, because that doesn't go away after you're done noticing it. It only gets deeper and more interesting. And so maybe not everybody will be super into mushrooms, but a lot of people didn't know that they were before and discover that by, you know, viewing it through the lens of popular culture or food or what have you.
6:52Yeah, I think that makes a lot of sense. And from like a mushroom PR perspective, I think that when I was growing up, at least mushrooms were one of the most popular foods for people to say that they didn't like. and now maybe there are still mushroom haters, but I feel like there are a lot of people that would say mushrooms are their favorite food. When somebody tells me that they don't like mushrooms, you know, I don't, well, I don't say this back usually, but I think to myself often like, well, that means like, that's like saying you don't like plants or animals. Can you connect the dots on that?
7:22What do you mean? Well, because you're talking again about a kingdom. So like the difference between a king oyster and a lion's mane is significant. the texture, the flavor. It's like saying, I don't like spinach. You could say that. I get it. But, you know, associating basil with spinach, maybe not so much. Yeah, I think that makes sense. And it also reminds me of, you know, maybe you just haven't had them cooked in the right way before, like Brussels sprouts when everyone was boiling them as opposed to hard roasting them. Huge difference. Yeah, or had a fresh mushroom, like one that was grown near you or didn't go through some crazy supply chain to get to you.
7:59Yeah, can you maybe break down like what are the characteristics of a fresh mushroom versus maybe the kind of like sad shrink wrapped kind that we were eating in the past? Yeah, I mean, I mean, there's so many different ways to get mushrooms to people. A lot of people even haven't even had the shrink wrapped mushrooms. They get them canned or dehydrated. And there's a there's a place for all of these kinds of mushrooms. Dehydrated mushrooms have their definitely their own place. but when you're dealing with like a whole mushroom that was harvested from a farm most of them are either shipped from a single area in the United States or a lot of the time shipped from overseas in big containers and the mushroom mushrooms I don't want to say that everyone should just go eat like tons of old mushrooms or anything but getting it's not necessarily like a food safety concern to have an old mushroom usually it's just kind of dried up or soggy or loses nutrition or flavor in the decomposition process.
8:58But when something is harvested and then gets to the shelf within a day or two, then you have a, like it's a firmer mushroom. Usually the colors are there. The nutrition is definitely a lot more than it would have been if it was sitting on a shelf or sitting on a truck for a long time. And it's just a completely different experience. I mean, a lot of the chefs that when we started the business were just so excited because the quality was different than anything else they could get. Yeah, I think that makes a lot of sense. And while we're talking about kind of the beginnings of Smallhold, I find that so interesting because I know that it started six years ago.
9:37Is that right? Yeah. I mean, we incorporated in 2017. Andrew started growing mushrooms in his basement long before that, though. Yeah, it was probably like a couple years before that that we started thinking about it. And then it wasn't until 2017 that Adam and I got to quit our jobs and created Smallhold. That's when it really started moving. But yeah, we were sort of talking about it a little bit before that. Right. So back in like the basement mushroom growing era, what kind of work were you both doing and what made you interested in mushrooms in that way? Before Small Hold, I worked on a lot of indoor farming projects.
10:16And so I was a grower for big greenhouse and some warehouse farms doing leafy green production. And I kind of thought that it would be easy to do mushrooms. I was completely wrong. Again, as Adam mentioned, it's another kingdom. It grows completely differently. Honestly, mushrooms are more like animals than they are like plants. And so you're managing just a completely different organism. and I was working on a house my family owned that was kind of falling apart. My parents passed away and so we were just kind of fixing it up and then we're growing mushrooms in the basement kind of on the weekends.
10:52Can I ask what kind of mushrooms were you growing in the basement? It was trumpets. They were not psychedelic mushrooms as a lot of people thought and honestly a lot of people that visited thought that it was psychedelic mushrooms. I mean it looked crazy. I don't know. Well, I mean, a lot of people visited and like looked at the tents and said nothing weirdly. So like, OK, imagine you walk down into like a suburban home in Mount Kisco. You walk in and then you go into the basement and then there's what looks like a meth lab. And there's literally a bunch of burners and a bunch of pots and like steaming stuff and like bleach and chemicals everywhere and like weird pipes running out the window.
11:32and then outside we used we had a cement mixer like a like one of the home cement mixers like a stand-up one you can get a home depot for like you know 70 bucks and then uh have this awesome video of andrew his shirt off yeah with a weed whacker just sticking it in there and like chopping out of straw and this is like in full view of all the neighbors in the back and then when you say oh, don't worry, I'm growing mushrooms in the basement. That doesn't help matters. Yeah. No, they don't want to know, basically, the people who would come in. Didn't ask. Yeah, no one asks for sure. But it was trumpets and we were growing it on straw, which is not the best way to grow trumpet mushrooms.
12:13We grow mostly on sawdust now. But we did that for a while. I mean, it was a fun time down there. But eventually we got our hands on a shipping container, which we planted in Williamsburg at the Domino Factory. And that was when we could really start showing different people the mushrooms that we were trying to grow and getting more and more people into it, which is kind of when the company started. And what were, Adam, what were you doing in this era besides taking videos of Andrew being shirtless, weed whacking things? Well, honestly, while Andrew was starting to farm mushrooms or grow mushrooms in the basement, I was on a motorcycle trip for eight months.
12:52Nice. Finding myself. where were you going i guess back to brooklyn uh i tried to live in like multiple other places in the country and and uh failed i guess or just didn't like them um you know nothing against san francisco um but i wound up back in brooklyn actually on andrew's couch uh and i didn't want to get back into consulting i was consulting and like data management and stuff like that before I left. And so I did startup stuff. So I started a couple companies and worked in the internet and internet privacy. But I was swinging a hammer for Andrew on the shipping container just because I really was trying to not go back to that.
13:37And then one day I was like, man, you should probably pay me. Here we are now. Recording a podcast. So something that I think is interesting about Smallhold and certainly how I first got to know about y 'all is just the relationships that you built with chefs here in New York and having the grow tanks in restaurants in the city. And I'm curious about what made you decide to go that approach into like kind of aligning yourself with these chefs in that kind of early era. We needed to prove that there was a market for mushrooms, like specialty mushrooms. So nobody actually, even in New York, a lot of the chefs that we approached didn't know, you know, chefs actually up until very recently, many chefs would just be ordering mushrooms, capital M.
14:20They were like, I want mushrooms. They wouldn't be like, I want a lion's mane or five pounds of lion's mane. Uh, and so we had to go and validate the market for what we originally were selling, which is the tanks, the mini farms. Uh, and so, uh, that was, that was a huge process. Um, visited a hundred, uh, restaurants pretty much in the space of a few weeks, uh, walking around with King Oysters, which is what we had at the time. Uh, and nobody said no. They were all like, yeah, I want those mushrooms. Um, and so we knew we had something. Yeah. I mean, I think that the, it was a mutual thing with the restaurant community.
14:58We were really excited to work with everyone, but I think a lot of people liked what we were trying to do. And I don't, I mean, we're pretty strategic about a lot of things, but I think that especially our approach with the restaurants was kind of like, we, we saw the potential of working with people because they were excited about working with Small Hold and then we started thinking about how to approach it rather than like brainstorming in the beginning and being like this is exactly how we're going to approach this. But you know we're in New York City and some of the best chefs in the world are here.
15:32And it was really intimidating. Yeah. Yes. Who are some of the early chefs that were kind of champions of the brand? Shout out to Tara Nervell. Yeah. Tara Nervell was the first person to buy mushrooms from small holes. And she told us about the food groups. Yeah. She told us of her vision of a food pyramid, but around it was mushrooms. Whoa. I love that. And this is when Tara was cooking at Honey's? No, this is way before that, actually. I think she was doing like menu stuff for different people and she was doing different pop-ups, but it was pre-Honey's. Cool. Who else? Give me some more names.
16:08Arlie. Yeah. Arlie and Honeys and Angela. Angela Dimauga. She. When she was at Mission Chinese. Yeah. She was. She was crazy enough to let us install a mushroom farm above a bar, which we were crazy enough to put in, which is also the rule was just don't catch anything on fire, which like. How did that go? Never. Never caught anything on fire. Almost. No comment. No comment. It was never our fault. We didn't catch anything. Yeah. There was a spark, but that was another person. Okay. No one present here. It's almost like, so it's like a business card almost as well, because the mushroom farms, especially in this era when they were in the restaurants, it's like an aquarium tank kind of, and you can see the mushrooms growing inside of it.
17:03And it's smart to have it above the bar in one way because that space was so trippy and cool, that Mission Chinese. And you walk in, you see those mushrooms. They changed their aesthetic as well during the time that we installed that. Nobody probably really remembers this, but their lights were really intense. Yeah. Like they used to have full pink lights actually, and then they changed them to blue. That's cool. It was amazing actually. It made the food look crazy. Uh-huh. So were you thinking about it from a marketing perspective at all, that people were going to see this thing and then find out that it was smallhold?
17:35Sort of. Angela kind of called that out, actually. So, I mean, we didn't reference Bunker and Jimmy. So we, Tara was our first person who bought mushrooms, but Bunker Vietnamese was the first group that allowed us to install a mini farm. And the first one was in their basement, and it was crazy down there. Jimmy was the real crazy one. Yeah. And, um, and so this was when they moved into the 99 Scott spot. So it was after they moved out of their smaller spot before that. Um, and at that point we thought that this was going to be utility. We thought that this would be really fresh, exciting mushrooms for people, but it would not be in front of customers.
18:16And Angela saw it and was like, no, we need this in front of people and we did it at mission. And then as soon as that happened, then that became part of the strategy because everyone wanted that, you know, it was, it was putting it in front of everyone. And so everyone could see, uh, the mushrooms growing there. Um, same sort of thing with our brand, honestly, like we, um, thought this is going to be a utility. We didn't know that people were going to want to associate with small hold and small hold would be the thing that people want to put in front of people. But it's still the case. Like people are excited about the brand.
18:53They're putting our name on the menu. We put it on the mini farms. We do it all over the place. But, you know, we definitely, I'm not saying that all this kind of fell in our lap. Like we're definitely strategic about stuff, but we definitely, you know, see, we kind of try stuff out and then see what other customers want and go with it there. Yeah. I'm curious how you think the pandemic impacted all of it as well, because I have like probably one of my strongest memories of the early pandemic here in New York was that the city was shutting down. And then the meat hook was y 'all did a pop up on the sidewalk in front of the meat hook, which is that butcher in Greenpoint to pick up the blocks to propagate your own mushrooms.
19:31And I stuffed one in the back of a Revel scooter and then brought it back to my apartment. And then for the early pandemic, that was like every day time is passing. You can see how much the mushrooms are growing. And I know that like other people did that as well. And I feel like it's such a cool example of like the mushroom movement to borrow your language and that people were interested in growing mushrooms at home. Do you feel like that impacted this degree of brand association that people have? It was a huge part of the Small Hold story. It's tough to relate that to people who weren't in New York.
20:03Yeah. Not to like exclude anybody, but the pandemic sort of affected New York City differently than it did the rest of the United States, I think. Yeah. Well, we were kind of like the first epicenter here and no one knew what was happening. Exactly. And it was really freaky. And so that's like honestly a whole podcast episode in and of itself. but it was that's what happened with that was um can I tell the story yeah yeah okay uh yeah so um we paused for two days and then we lost all of our restaurant customers uh because obviously nobody was going to cook mushrooms because everybody was shutting down uh and then uh our supplier was throwing out literally all of their stuff we were throwing we were considering throwing out all of our mushrooms and then all of our blocks, the blocks being the substrate that the mushrooms grow off of, which represented another, you know, couple thousand pounds of mushrooms.
21:05And so instead of doing that, we decided that we were going to make a website. So we put it on Instagram. Yeah, we put it on Instagram and we had a Google sheet. Oh, yeah. That had a bunch of like smiley faces all over it. yeah yeah and so people could sign up on the google sheet to get well at first it was the pop-up and then we started doing the home deliveries and driving the van around because we had a van and brent brent from i don't know who reached out to i think we we reached out to him because the i live in we you were living in greenpoint yeah we were living in greenpoint and they had a line around the block just like everybody else uh and sort of asked him like hey can we sell mushrooms to the people standing in line um people standing in line at the meat hook to buy to buy meat yeah to buy their fancy you know groceries yeah for the two weeks the city was supposed to be closed yeah so louis moved into the farm um our at the time head farmer uh and now head of r &d um and he literally just basically bunkered uh and a mushroom farm is actually a really great place to be during a pandemic because we have a lot of sterilization equipment and a lot of uh ppe so we have like you know full-face respirators and like pump sprayers barrels of rubbing alcohol yeah rubbing alcohol you can find on amazon we had literal barrels you were rich in rubbing alcohol yeah um and so i i remember going to the door and opening it and louis just dressed in like a full bunny suit a bunny suit being like the you know like a painter's suit with a hood and a full face respirator and he was like and then he like sprays me with the pump sprayer like and then we get in the van which we also sprayed the interior down and i get out of the van and i sprayed the sidewalk yeah and then we started selling mushrooms to people at the meat hook for and we did this every week for yeah and then the and then yeah and then the grow kits thank you Brent people yeah seriously um and then the grow kits we we it was this funny thing where we were like trying to sell some but then we were also giving a lot away because a lot of people were in a really rough spot lost their jobs and a lot of like our friends and the company friends were in it was tough for everyone but it was definitely really tough for some people out there and we would give away a lot of mushrooms we would like it was like a pay what you wish kind of thing for a lot of people and then we started giving away the grow kits and selling them too um but that was kind of the most affordable way to get people these these mushrooms if they grew it themselves but then at the same time that was also a really fun thing to do during during quarantine because it grows really fast yeah you know these they're like blue oysters or lion's mane will, it'll look different every day.
24:03You know, every day you wake up. Yeah. Every morning I'd be like, oh, get up and see my new roommate and how much bigger they've gotten overnight. Totally. And then people started naming them. Yeah. I'm trying to remember. I definitely named mine, but I feel bad that I can't remember it anymore. But then also you have the experience of, you know, having so much mushrooms to cook with at once when they start to get ready. That's also like an interesting part of that moment in time you know yeah most people have never like had a cluster as big as your head you know because that would that's that's hard to to buy unless you have a hookup yeah so are the grow kits still being offered online not right now well we moved that to be more of like a seasonal thing and so if people check back and on near near like the holidays then they'll see it pop up or if they subscribe to our newsletter we'll kind of explain it when it comes out the Mushroom Digest.
24:54The Mushroom Digest. We just interviewed Bryn Dentinger, a mycologist from Utah, and he just got back from Queensland, Australia, and he's one of the world's leading experts on boletes like Porcini. Cool. Yeah, pretty interesting. For all the mushroom freaks. Yeah, that's one of my favorite newsletters. Oh, thanks. It's so funny because I feel like you are positioned in this mushroom world where there are so many different, there are foragers, there are these artists, there are people that are growing on like farms like you. And that I feel like the newsletter is a really good eye into all of that beyond like even the aesthetic part of mushrooms, but the people that are like working with mushrooms on a daily basis.
25:36Did you like want to have the newsletter exist in that way? The newsletter comes from this place where that was our one piece of very purposeful marketing back in the day. And it came from, uh, back when I worked for my old boss who used to be like a New York times editor. Uh, and he explained to me this, and I don't know if this is interesting to anybody, but I find it very intriguing. The cost, the barrier and the cost to entry, uh, for an expert is much lower when there's a nascent industry. And so if you want to be an expert, like a thought leader, you start early with your contacts and you're not going to pay as much as later on to get into that thought leadership position.
26:19Like it won't take as much effort or time or money. And so that was a sort of whole philosophy. And then also the point of it isn't to promote smallhold, uh, it's to promote mushrooms. Uh, and we felt that by promoting mushrooms, uh, we would, you know, promote sort of and platform other people. Uh, and that was the best way to garner organic support for our business at the time, and it still is. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. And it brings me to something I wanted to talk about, which is that I think when we say farming, there's maybe an image that people get into their heads that I certainly would of, you know, a bucolic farm somewhere upstate and the skill that you're working at.
26:55And also what you're saying a little bit about mushrooms being a different whole kingdom and species is actually quite different. You have these like lavender lights in the warehouse and these big tanks. So I'm wondering if you can tell me a little bit about the scale that you're currently working at, the cities that you're in, how many mushrooms you're growing, and also the challenges that come with working at that scale? Yeah, so we started here in Brooklyn, or we're in New York right now, but we started in Brooklyn. That's where our headquarters is. And we have a facility in Fort Greene. And we built that one in 2020.
27:28We built another one in Texas in Austin, and that's now an R &D space. But then we built a larger facility in Buda, which is about 15 minutes south of Austin. And then we ended up building a larger space in Vernon outside of Los Angeles. Like it's about 15 minutes east of downtown LA. We launched that late last year. Across the whole operation, we can grow around like 50 or 60 ,000 pounds per week. And most of those mushrooms are distributed to grocery stores and customers that are in those regions. New York is completely maxed out. We've been here for a little while. We'd love to build more supply here, but we are definitely focusing on Texas and Los Angeles at this point.
28:16And how did you pick those cities? Was that just trying to cover as much of the country as you can? Well, I mean, I think there were a few things. New York, it's because we were here. And who's from Los Angeles? Yeah, I love L.A. Me too. Also, people like salad there. Yeah, well, Texas, we had a relationship with a retailer out there called HEB and Central Market. People love HEB. People love HEB and Central Market's amazing. Central Market has mini farms in every Central Market in Texas. Wow. And they have just piles and piles of small whole mushrooms. It's really, it's an amazing grocery store.
28:55and anyway during covid when we were doing all this block stuff and then also selling direct basically like halfway through the year all these retailers these grocery stores started coming out of the woodworks and realizing that mushrooms are really trendy and they wanted mushrooms with higher quality and different varieties and we've been trying to talk to these people for years at this point and um now you come crawling back yeah sort of and but central market the people there were just extremely supportive and just very excited about us being there. And that definitely weighed heavily on our decision to move to Texas or to build there.
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29:34But it's been good. Like we're also in a bunch of other retailers there now as well. But Centromarco was the first customer there. And then Los Angeles, I love LA, sure. But it also had the largest increase in mushroom demand in the country during COVID. And so a lot of people are eating a lot of mushrooms in Los Angeles. And so we thought that that was a good place for us to go. So that's the demand side. But also there's a supply side as well where we were talking about the freshness of mushrooms. Most of the mushrooms in the country are grown actually on this side of the country, although there are large farms everywhere.
30:11But most of those are button mushroom farms, which is actually a totally different kind of mushroom to grow. So we grow on basically the mushrooms that we grow, you would find growing on trees. And they have a shorter shelf life than button mushrooms, which are basically like the iceberg lettuce of the mushroom world in the grocery store. It's hard to ship a blue oyster from New York to Los Angeles and still have it be good on the shelf. And so because of that, you have to farm locally, which is kind of cool, or at least more locally. And that's what we wound up doing is moving the facility to the space.
30:47And then what we had to do was make a national supply chain for specialty mushrooms, which, you know, looking back on it is ridiculous and very stressful. But also I think it gave us a lot of first mover advantage when we decided to sort of go national like we did. and also give us the support network as we continue to grow. Yeah, you're kind of blowing my mind right now. I've always wondered why button mushrooms are the only mushroom you can find in some places. Are you saying it's because they're the easiest to ship? So a lot of produce in the country is like this. If you really think about it, the supermarket back in the 80s, right, the 90s, the heyday of the massive supermarket, you know, purchasing habits and everything like that.
31:38we conformed a lot of the food to fit into that box literally and the highway system. So if you can imagine like back in the day, like you could go to the supermarket and you could get, there's three kinds of apples. There's red, there's green, and there was yellow, right? Or you can get like, you know, spinach and maybe romaine and iceberg. Now you have this plethora of greens. you have this plethora of apples to choose from in any market you go up or down market and so we saw that coming from mushrooms and yeah so button mushrooms the they they have a similar sort of profile in my head at least to iceberg lettuce in that it's good on a pizza topping it's not a bad mushroom uh they have a there you can make lots of them but they're really easy to ship they have a great shelf life just like a beefsteak tomato no taste right but it ships good and it looks good on a shelf.
32:34And so that's what those are for. Okay. That makes a lot of sense. I feel like it's something I never really questioned. I was always like the least excited about that mushroom and it was the one that was the easiest to find. So we're talking about growing mushrooms. We're talking about logistics and distribution a little bit. I'm curious, you know, you've done so much different work with small hold. What's a part of your job right now that is like the most surprising, that would have been the most surprising to you if you were telling yourself five years ago or 10 years ago about your job? The thing that I think is the craziest thing, which I think a lot of business owners talk about is like people management and it's hard to manage people, but just sort of like building relationships and building the team and talking to people.
33:16And, you know, we're almost 100 people at this point. And so it's a lot of personalities and thoughts about how we should run the business. And we try to hear everyone out and try to incorporate all of that. And it's, it's a lot. And I did not go to business school. I like spent my whole career before this, like growing plants and managing some teams, but like, I'm like the science guy and I'm getting better at helping at manage people, managing people, but that I did not see coming until, you know, we started really bringing on a lot of people. What about you? Yeah. So this is not my background at all.
33:56working with mushrooms is the surprise yeah working with mushrooms generally um no i i built mushroom farms that's like a thing that i never thought i would say um uh you know building one mushroom farm is crazy building two building i don't know how many we've built you know up big and small uh that's a that's a whole thing um but the surprising thing about today i guess that my my job, my day in, day out is like, I get to learn like deeply about the flavor and history and culture of mushrooms, which it's just so fun. Like to be able to continuously dig deep on a subject that's so expansive and to never find the bottom is like, what else could you wish for in a profession?
34:45Yeah, it is an endless pit. I feel like once you start digging into mushrooms, There are so many different interesting parts about how cultures have held on to them and uplifted them in different ways. And it makes me want to ask you about like if you were stranded on a desert island, you could only have one mushroom. What would your mushroom be? Mine? Yeah, I'll tell you mine also last. Well, so singularly or can I have one type of mushroom? I just want to make sure. Not only one single mushroom, but one type of mushroom. That would be the jack-o'-lantern mushroom. It's a bioluminescent, and I would write SOS in the sand with it.
35:22Ooh, okay. Tricky. Wow, that was a tricky one. I would say like blue oyster mushroom because it's probably one of the easier ones to grow, and so you could propagate it. I mean, I guess if there are—it depends how you define a desert island mushroom. If there's tons of it, then I would still take a blue oyster, but it would allow me to be a little more sufficient, I would think. Yeah, I think in this fantasy concept, it would be plentiful regardless of how easy it is to grow. but I appreciate that you're being practical. I'll still take blue oyster. It's still a good one. That's a solid one. I think I would do psilocybin because I would probably get bored on the desert island.
35:56Yeah. But if not that, then probably shiitake because I think those are so much, they're so delicious, you know? Yeah. Yeah, I'm obsessed with them right now. Right now? Yeah. I was just in Japan. Yeah. Were you, tell me about your trip to Japan a little bit and the mushrooms that you saw there. I saw a lot of shiitake. Yeah. Um, yeah. So, uh, we, we farm mushrooms, uh, and we farm a lot of them. Just, I think it's important to recognize where they come from a lot of them. And so like a yellow oyster mushroom for years, we were growing them and, um, they're beautiful and they're amazing mushrooms.
36:34Uh, and I was entirely just, I assumed they were from Russia, but I went to Hokkaido and they're like, no what we're trying to do is mimic a hokkaido summer with our environment and i was like why they're like well because that's where they come from and so you know i'm literally going to the place where all of the mushrooms that we've been growing for all these years are are from like shiitake are from china actually um but uh they were you know they have like sort of a colonial name that's a japanese name um but uh to understand you know how people have been growing these for you know, a couple centuries and the practices that they've developed to develop the flavor and the genetics that they've been working on is insane.
37:18So you learn where umami like really comes from, like where the people have been selecting for umaminess in fungi for literally hundreds of years. That's like profound because I've been trying to grow them for forever, but I really didn't understand it. Yeah. Did you learn anything that made you think about examining the way you grow mushrooms differently? Well, there's lots of things, and we still have to discuss some of them. I mean, you should talk about forest-grown shiitake. Well, forest-grown shiitake is a beautiful thing, and it's quickly becoming a thing of the past. Are you saying forest-grown or forest-grown?
37:58Forest. Forest, like with trees. Both, actually. They do force the fruiting of the shiitake with cold water. Cool. And that's part of the sort of practice. but yeah there's agroforestry in Japan if you think about land management and being on a series of small islands you become really good at it really quickly because you have a growing population or at least this is my theory somebody can correct me but essentially you learn to quickly you know reinforce your soil and your forests and shiitake grow on fallen logs and so practicing sustainable forestry actually becomes a part of growing shiitakes.
38:36You know, it's not, majority of the shiitakes grown in Japan and China and the United States are not grown this way because it's very labor intensive now. So I met one of like the last five of a hundred growers in this part of Japan that I was in. And he showed me how he does it. And it's a really interesting practice. He is one man with a tractor and he grows 3 ,000 pounds of shiitake a month. and he just cuts his own trees, plugs them, lugs them over to the farm, puts them in there. He burns the old logs for heat for the farm and it's been doing it for, this is a third generation farm. So patience is what I learned.
39:18I like that because I think that a lot of the conversation around mushrooms in this moment is talking about them as a future of food or a way that we can be feeding the new world, but they obviously have been around for such a long time and they're from the past also. There is a god in China. There is a shiitake god. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. And so you got like people like multiple townships are centered around just shiitake production. Yeah. And this is going back, you know, a couple thousand years. Yeah. And also isn't like one of the pagan rituals that is one of the predecessors to Santa Claus and Christianity, doesn't that have to do with a mushroom also?
39:54The amanita? Yeah. Amanita. a mushroom yeah i mean that's there's definitely a theory around that wait that santa is a mushroom santa is a mushroom that's yeah there's a lot of people that think that that it's like he's like a symbol for amanita mushrooms and also the other thing is that reindeer eat amanita and then you can drink their urine and you can hallucinate if you drink it and just to connect the dots amanita is a red and white mushroom yeah it's the emoji right so it's not that santa is an embodied mushroom but that his colors are mushrooms so people think that that yeah it's it's he's representative of the mushroom itself so the reindeer uh-huh they they pee the hallucinogen yes that you would imbibe and then oftentimes um i forget the whole thing but basically santo's red and white um and uh that's not because of coca-cola uh people really think that he's a Mass hallucination, I think, is what it was.
40:52Or he's like a guy that drank a bunch of the ranger urine. I mean, I'm not sure. Someone correct us. I mean, I don't, yeah, I don't celebrate Christmas, so I don't know. But this sounds exciting to me. Well, you know, there's always a first if you want to go to Scandinavia and meet Santa. Yeah. I mean, you can get Ammanita. Yeah, you can, you know, find Ammanita all over the place. And it's not a, I mean, there's more and more people that are figuring out different ways to consume it, but it's not something that you should just eat in the woods. No. I'm going to need to check you on that. Sorry.
41:32We're going to have to edit out that pun. It's too bad. I'm sure people ask you this all the time, but obviously we're on the precipice of psychedelic mushroom legalization in the United States or at least like loosening around that. Is that an area that Smallhold would ever venture into? I mean, it's not part of the plan at all. I think that it would take a lot of change to allow us to kind of participate in that. We have a lot of knowledge on how to grow mushrooms. We have some pretty crazy equipment that we invented that could grow a really, maybe you can make amazing operation out of it. And so we definitely pay attention.
42:11But, you know, we're in a lot of ways, we think that the food industry is a lot bigger of a problem and a bigger market, you know, to get more mushrooms into people's hands than than that. Not to say it's not important. We're all believers at Smallhold of more and more people seeing the power of psychedelic mushrooms. But we don't have to be growing and selling all mushrooms. Yeah. There's more money in food, to be honest. I mean, just take a step back and think about how—I'm not sure how often or how much mushrooms you might consume that aren't psychedelic. But I have to assume it's not lots frequently and they're not that expensive.
43:03And so if you could just sort of go upwards from there, people consume lots more food mushrooms. It's not like, you know, you would be growing marijuana. Actually, people there's daily consumers. But with psychedelics, you know, the application is a little bit more limited than with. That makes sense. And also, you know, we've talked a little bit about this, but so many people are looking to mushrooms as a way of feeding people at scale and as this kind of future solution to the problems that we have with our current food system. And I'm curious if you could tell me a little bit about the way that you see that, like mushrooms in general as a future of food and then maybe smallhold specifically.
43:45Yeah, I mean, there are so many reasons to like mushrooms. I mean, as far as the future is concerned, you don't use a lot of resources to grow them. Pretty much all mushrooms are grown on some form of a waste stream. Ours are grown on sawdust from the timber industry. Button mushrooms are grown on compost. You can train mycelium to grow on all sorts of different things. I mean, yeah, you can grow on most trash, actually, if you really wanted to. and then the waste that you produce can go to big compost projects and at the same time this food is high in fiber it's nutritious it tastes good it's fun to eat there is some protein in it it's not like a massive amount of protein but there's an argument that people might not need as much protein as they think they do and so I think there's just so many benefits to it I mean we did a lot of work to understand the impact of our production and our mushrooms and um we couldn't find really much food that used less water than our operation um and the carbon impact is less than other mushroom producers but that is like a fraction of all that all protein and all all meat stuff and then that is already a fraction of the meat industry um i don't i don't think that we should expect everyone to be eating one thing.
45:13The future that I hope for is a future where we can eat all sorts of different things and have a ton of different options. That's what I see as sustainability is more like being able to imitate what we're currently doing in a way that is, you know, that can last rather than how we're kind of currently doing it, which is not necessarily sustainable as far as society is concerned. What do you think, Adam? No, he put it very well. Um, I, the only thing that I would add is that somebody eating mushrooms thinks more about their environment. And so when you're talking about trends, there's a big trend right now around regenerative agriculture, whatever that means, right.
45:56And, and circular economies, whatever that means. Um, and I think those are really, really good things to be promoting and paying attention to and, uh, supporting as a food company or an agriculture company. but ultimately like the thing that you know for for better or for worse that people care about when they're shopping you're an animal right like you're going into this environment with lots of colors and sales and an overabundance of food in a way they care about flavor and if you can find a way that makes people interested in those things through food then I think that you've really you've hit something magical um and it it can be good for the environment and it could be good for people and also mushrooms are center of the plate so it can actually be very filling uh and they have umami which is like a it's sechi it makes you feel full and satisfied so i think they're very helpful in that respect yeah i think to me mushrooms are a comfort food almost when you think about like a mushroom soup or a mushroom pasta like there's something about that that's really soul satisfying in that way which makes a lot of sense same um i know that like we're talking about all the different variety of mushrooms that are out there and you introduced dried mushrooms recently which i've never seen dried mushrooms that are not a shiitake before maybe just because of my own grocery shopping so why did you decide to introduce the dried mushrooms and how do they fit into the rest of your whole system so um when you grow anything when you're a farmer, you have off cuts or waste, right?
47:30So we, as we were growing smallhold, would have significant amounts of poundage sometimes that you might have a bout of, it's called blotch, which causes a discoloration on the mushrooms. And again, getting back to the grocery store, especially being a human animal in that store, you're going to look and you're going to see a white mushroom versus a brown mushroom. You're going to take the white mushroom because it looks fresher, even though it's just the same. and so we have to do something with those and we dry them uh we also take all the trimming uh from when we pack in our clamshells uh and that's a way to you know save money right we're saving stuff that we would otherwise throw away or compost actually um and then it's also a way to to have a shelf stable product to be yeah and what are the mushrooms that y 'all currently have dried We have oyster, royal trumpet, lion's mane.
48:20Those are the main ones? Those are the main ones, yeah. And we don't do the shiitake. Although when you dehydrate a mushroom and you reconstitute it, what you're actually doing is you're actually enhancing the flavor of the mushroom, which is a crazy thing. You're not removing the flavor. It makes the umami more umami. Wow. Yeah. Yeah, like there's definitely a use case for the dried mushrooms. I find that when you're making soups or putting them in rice or something like that, you end up, a lot of, like, fresh mushrooms are great to include in that. But using dehydrated mushrooms, even hydrating them with something that's, like, a flavorful, like a broth or just, you know, obviously cooking in a soup, then you can have a different experience than you would have with a fresh mushroom.
49:10And so it's not just that it's, you know, scrap mushrooms and you should eat them because they're extra for small hold. There's definitely other ways that you can use it as a consumer. Yeah, I've just been using them in stock recently, but I think, you know, soup season is kind of coming to a close here in New York and now I'm excited to be thinking about what else I should be putting them in instead. I don't know if you have any suggestions for me. I was thinking quesadillas. What do you think about that? Of course. Sure. Right? Yeah, anything quesadilla or taco. Yeah, or you could like hydrate them and then blend them up and make like a pate or something.
49:47Risotto. Ooh. You know, I almost made a vegan chopped liver for Passover with the mushrooms, and then I just ran out of time. But I was excited about that idea, I would say. A big part of what we're doing right now is taking all the waste products that we generate. That's actually my job right now. And turning it into my team's job. Your job is to single-handedly eat all of the waste mushrooms. It's a big job, but somebody has to do it. It's going to be you. But no, we take all that. And so anything that we have hopefully is going to be saved, stored, and sold as dehydrated mushrooms. Or we're actually taking those and then turning them into value-added products that then expose people to mushrooms in new ways.
50:33So not everybody likes to buy a lion's mane in the grocery store because they don't know what it is. And so putting that into another product and exposing them through that lens and merchandising it next to the fresh product then exposes people to that mushroom and gives them like a window into how it might be when they cook with it. And that's sort of our master plan. And then same with the compost products. We take our compost from our blocks and we're making vermicompost with that. So vermicompost is basically worm castings. And so long story around that one. But basically we feed the blocks with food waste to worms and then they poop it out.
51:11And then that's really nutritious for your soil. And so literally if we can close all those loops as much as possible. Andrew made the point to me about the vermicompost because most of the vermicompost that's not sold in a consumer channel gets sold to marijuana farmers in Oklahoma. Whoa. I made the point that it's not closed loop because people ultimately smoke it. But we're getting there. Yeah. I mean, down the line. That's so fun. I wanted to ask you about what it's like working together and like how you, to me, it seems like you have a really good relationship as co-founders. I'm curious what the secret is behind that.
51:49You're going to laugh and say you don't like each other? Anybody else that's small? No. I mean, the thing about it. and tell us anything. Yeah, so Adam and I have known each other for a really long time. You know, for backstory, we were roommates all throughout college years and years ago. We were roommates in Brooklyn and then we started a business together. And I think... And I moved onto your couch. Yeah, yeah, we lived on my couch for a while. And I think that it's definitely been hard in the past. I'm not going to beat around the bush there, but I do think that the relationship allows you to be more direct than if you had a more professional relationship.
52:39We do have a professional relationship, but if you didn't know someone that well, then you aren't able to be direct. Sometimes that's hard. Those are hard conversations to have, but then also I think it's allowed us to move a lot faster than if we didn't have that relationship. And so I think that that's one of the benefits of it. Yeah. And oftentimes I know when Andrew's not going to like a thing that I'm doing. But you keep doing it?
53:10That's good. I don't know. You know, I do this magazine, Cake Scene, with a really good friend of mine. And we are always talking about our lives and then also talking about business together. And I had to like put us on Slack in part so that our text threads could just be us hanging out or me asking to like borrow her shoes or something like that. But I think that knowing someone and trusting someone in that way is an asset in a business sense, you know? Sure. Small Holds has grown pretty quickly. And I think a big part of that is not having to have those discussions that are basic building blocks of other founder relationships that you kind of have to get out of the way at one point or another.
53:48So for instance, you know, starting the company, like what's the equity split? We were able to come to an agreement very quickly, right? Things like that because we know each other and have insight into each other's lives. And also just generally, you know, know each other's tolerances in different ways, I think. Yeah, that makes sense. Well, I normally ask people a question that I'm going to ask you, but I'll ask you the question, then I'll give you a clarification on it. which is if you could have a signature menu item named after you, what would it be? And for the context of this question, I don't mean like a small hold sandwich somewhere.
54:25I mean like the Andrew, the Adam at an ice cream shop, at a bar, at a sandwich shop. What would that signature item be? I can name one for Andrew. You could do it for each other. That would be cute. Is it mayonnaise? It's mayonnaise. It's just mayonnaise. It's just mayonnaise.
54:45Andrew's mayonnaise. Yeah. Yeah, I like mayonnaise. Andrew's mayo and avocado sandwich. Mayonnaise sandwich. A mayo sandwich? Sure. I mean, mayonnaise and avocado sandwich, sure. Mostly mayonnaise. Okay, what's the bread? Is it toasted? Actually, we did make a sandwich once. Definitely toasted. I would say like a sourdough, homemade sourdough bread, toasted, mayonnaise on both sides, full, like a whole avocado, maybe some microgreens. Do you want to throw in a mushroom or no? I mean, we could use mushroom mayonnaise, actually. Well, what is that? Mushrooms and mayonnaise. Chopped up, mixed in.
55:25You can make a sauce out of the mushrooms and then mix it in with the mayonnaise. Okay. Think of like a mushroom pesto. Yeah. Yeah, and then you mix that like a pesto mayonnaise. Yeah, guys, this is a food podcast. I want all the details about what's on the sandwich. Well, do you know about mushroom ketchup? Do you know the history of that? No, tell me the brief history. the apparently ketchup the first ketchup was a mushroom ketchup tomato ketchup like was later in the game the first the first ketchups were a bunch of different types people were just using different materials but the most popular one was i believe in uh in england was the mushroom ketchup this podcast episode is just like potential true facts about mushrooms i know i don't want to That's a real fact.
56:08That's definitely a real fact. I'm not sure the region, but I'm pretty sure it's from there. But you can find random recipes of it online. But it makes sense, too, if you think about it. Like mushrooms, umami, tomato, umami, and you're making a sauce out of it. Yeah, I buy that. Okay, what's your menu item?
56:27I mean, I have this dream for a restaurant called Fritters. So it would be just Adam's Fritters, and it could mean anything. Okay. What would your fritter be? Is it a mushroom fritter? It could definitely be a mushroom fritter. You know, anything in fritter form would really apply. But yeah, a mushroom fritter would be good. Like a really good lion's mane tempura would actually be great. Tempura lion's mane. Yeah. I feel like you'd have like a secret fritter, like a hot dog. You'd say it's a mushroom fritter, but it's actually hot dogs. Yeah. It's always actually hot dogs. With some mushroom ketchup for dipping.
57:05Yeah, mushroom ketchup sauce. Yeah, fridgers are not the most exciting food, but I feel like they're the menu item that nobody won't order. A safe bet. Well, this was bizarre and very fun. Thank you so much for coming on the podcast. Thank you for having us. Yeah, likewise.
57:33Abby Endler, welcome to today's podcast. Thank you so much for having me. I'm excited to be here. So we're going to talk about the world of crime and fiction and how maybe food plays in a role in fiction and crimes. But first, I want to hear about Criminal Types, the new podcast that you're launching soon or have launched already when this airs. Yes, I'm so excited. So Criminal Types is a podcast that's going to be going behind the scenes, kind of exploring what keeps the writers of our favorite scary stories up at night. We're really excited. We have an incredible season of some bestselling authors and some kind of rising stars in the genre.
58:05as well. It's going to be a ton of fun. So the show is like interviews with crime authors. Yes, exactly. So who do you have lined up? Do you have some good guests? We have an incredible array of guests. I'm obviously very biased here, but we have everyone from John Grisham. Oh yeah, heard of him. Yeah, you might have heard of him. Sure. John Grisham, Lisa Gardner, Riley Sager, Simone St. James. Truly an incredible lineup. Wait, you got Grisham like season one? Grisham is season one, episode one. Wait, how do you do like an arc if you're starting with Grisham? Listen, the idea here is to really, well, we've got to lure people in with the big names, obviously.
58:39But the idea is to give people the behind-the-scenes scoop on some of their favorite authors, but also to introduce them to new voices as well. So we have kind of, you know, the first two episodes are going to be Grisham and then this amazing debut author, Isabel Cagnes, who's written a super incredible kind of gothic horror story. So I think it's going to be a great kind of flow to the season. Oh, yeah. I'm watching Yellow Jackets. Do you know what? I still haven't seen Yellow Jackets. That's like gothic horror at a great level. I know I would be obsessed with it. My problem is that I just spend so much time reading that I can't keep up with new shows.
59:08I really can't do it. But I've heard amazing things about Yellow Jackets. No, it's cool. But we're going to talk about books. But, you know, Abby, what draws you to crime fiction? Like this genre that, you know, many of our listeners may not read for whatever reason, but it's actually one of the most popular genres out there. It is. I mean, you know, I think there's nothing better than an irresistible puzzle. I love the experience of reading a book that lets me, you know, just sink into the story and try to figure it out alongside the characters. It'll really surprise me, keep me hooked. I think there's something so satisfying about that.
59:41And I think that's obviously been the case for, you know, decades upon decades upon decades. So what makes a great crime thriller? I feel like right now I can think about a few that I've read over the years. But, you know, Formula is sometimes a blessing in disguise because we know where we're going. But what makes it good in your words? Yeah, I mean, you know, I think an author said to me once that they think one of the reasons this genre has been so appealing for so long is the fact that you do go from that chaos to order at the end. And, you know, life, we don't always see justice served at the end, right?
1:00:13Like there's a lot of life that's really messy. But in a crime novel, you get that satisfaction of solving the puzzle. You get the answer at the end of the book. And that's something I always love. I also think, you know, these stories just give us incredible characters. You think about like Agatha Christie's detectives or Sherlock Holmes or some of the contemporary psychological thriller protagonists who have these wild stories that we just love to follow. For me, I think that's what makes a really great crime story. So when you're talking to Grisham in episode one, and I'll link to it in the show notes, what exactly are you guys talking about?
1:00:42So we're getting into everything. I mean, he told some incredible stories about how his career got started. There is one story he told about how he literally had to hand sell copies of his first novel from the trunk of his car because people just, you know, they weren't rushing to buy the new John Grisham. He was an unknown quantity back then. So we talk about everything from his backstory to his new book, The Boys from Biloxi, which is inspired by this kind of crime, unorganized crime gang called the Dixie Mafia that I'd never heard of before. It's fascinating stuff. Dixie Mafia, man, sounds like a rich text to mine from.
1:01:14It really was, honestly, and it was just so cool to have the opportunity to speak with someone like him who's been in this business for so long, literally one of the best-selling thriller authors right now. Definitely. Now, let me ask you about Anthony Bourdain because Anthony Bourdain to many is Anthony Bourdain. He's the guy who was on television or wrote Kitchen Confidential. But to some, he's actually one of the better crime writers. Have you ever read any of Bourdain? You know what? I'm going to confess to you. I didn't even know that he was writing crime, that he wrote crime fiction until I was prepping for this interview.
1:01:46I had no idea. Yeah. So Bone in the Throat, I know, is probably his most famous crime novel. But he's I think he wrote three or four. And there's a great article in Eater that I'll link to in the show notes that covers his history with his fiction. But, you know, I think he also, like you, is just drawn to chaos and maybe figuring out the chaos at the end. I never really thought about that. but there's something very satisfying about it and I think when you look at crime novels across all different subgenres you can see that as kind of a through line so in the work that you uh do on instagram to crime by the book is your instagram you have like a large following so like you're talking to crime authors all the time is there like a type you know honestly it sounds strange crime so you mean is there a type of crime novel that I love or crime novelist that I love or is I mean person it's a great follow-up I mean your podcast host you're following up here I feel like I'm wondering if it's like a type of person who writes crime fiction for a living.
1:02:45You know what? I'm going to say they are – the type is like just kind. They are the kindest people I've ever talked to, which you would not expect. And it's been something – I think when I told my parents that I was kind of like, you know, starting down this whole rabbit hole, this crime fiction universe, they were sort of like, who are the people you're going to be talking with and spending your time with? They are the nicest people. And I have a working theory that it's because they're able to get all of their aggression out on the page. You know, they're so kind. And I think they're also curious.
1:03:10I think when I talk with crime writers, there are people who are very inquisitive. They look at a situation and they just start to wonder, what if? You know, I'm always amazed by their imagination and the way that they can kind of run wild with the most ordinary scenarios. Yeah, I think that's a good call. I think you have to have a certain level of interest in plot and also just be inquisitive about the world to make up these cases and not make them total boilerplate. Well, and smart, too. I mean, when you think about it, I've sometimes thought, like, should I try writing a crime novel? And I'm honestly just not sure I could make, like, the puzzle work.
1:03:43You know, I think that takes a ton of planning and plotting and just being able to see all the red herrings and the clues you're leaving for readers. It's a complicated genre. Abby, you can do it. You think so? Yeah, I know. I know for a fact. I know that you read enough of it. It just, like, is osmosis at the least. Well, thank you. Let me let's talk about food. I want to know, is there any crime fiction that you've read or read about that has food at the center of it that our listeners should be checking out? A hundred percent. OK, so major confession. Probably the number one thing that I love aside from crime novels is The Great British Bake Off.
1:04:14OK. And there is an incredible book that came out earlier this spring called The Golden Spoon by Jessa Maxwell. And it is a whodunit mystery that is centered around a reality TV baking competition. And the book is structured. If you're a Great British Bake Off fan, you're going to completely recognize this. But it's structured like there's like bread week and cake week and all this stuff. It's so good. It's so good. So demented. I love it. It's twisted. It's the perfect mashup of like Clue and Bake Off. I love that. Oh, my God. And what can be baked into the pies? Oh, my God. This isn't Sweeney Todd here.
1:04:47I mean, it feels a little Sweeney. I feel like there's definitely like a way to put or put like a weapon that's like hidden inside a souffle. I love that. I love it. No, it's fantastic. I would highly recommend that one. Let's talk about film, too. I mean, I know there's a crossover and this is in a film podcast you're doing, but do you have a favorite food film? You know, I was actually just talking with our amazing producer, Pat, who we love dearly. Shout out to Pat. I was just talking with him about the menu. Have you seen that? I loved the menu. It was so good. And, you know, thinking about food in crime films, obviously the number one thing that comes to mind is our friend Hannibal Lecter and his chianti and fava beans, right?
1:05:24That's like the iconic scene. But no, I think in terms of favorite food films, the menu would be up there for me. You like the menu? I think that's great. I loved it. We've talked a lot about it on various segments, and we haven't had any of the actors on or the screenwriter. But I think it's said a lot. It was a nice foil to the bear, which was more dripping in reality. And obviously a satire is not. And it was really smartly done. It was so smart. Anya Taylor-Joy is incredible. Yeah, great film. Let me ask you a little bit about your own background. and you went to school in Texas, you're moving back to Houston or moving to Houston.
1:05:58And we were chatting off mic about Houston, but I wanted to save it for the pod. I love this city. I want to talk about it all the time. It's the best, right? Yeah. What are you looking forward to most food-wise? Oh my gosh, everything. I mean, the Tex-Mex. Like I could not get enough. I could just live in a vat of queso. I think I would be a very happy girl. So I'm very excited about that. There's this great restaurant, Hugo's. I don't know if you've ever been. I've been to Hugo's. I got to say Nympha's Navigation is my place. No, I am not. Okay. You are my best friend down there also swears by ninfas.
1:06:25I am not as much of a ninfas. I love this debate. Tell me about Hugo's. No, I loved it. I had like the most. I'm also a vegetarian. So maybe that might inform some of my choices here. That's OK. I had the most incredible. It was like some sort of veggie enchilada. And I'm not a food expert, so I could not tell you all the intricacies of it. But it was pillar. I loved it so much. And I'm already planning when I moved down there the first Friday that I'm down there. You're going to Hugo's? Oh, I'm going to Hugo's. Oh, yeah. So what draws you to. Are you from Texas? No, I'm from Connecticut. I went to, you know, I had kind of like the traditional Connecticut upbringing, like all girls prep school.
1:06:57Yeah, horses involved. Oh, of course. Absolutely. And I really wanted something different for college. So I went to Rice University in Houston and totally fell in love with the city. It's such a great place and it doesn't get enough recognition. I think it's kind of like an unsung hero of Texas. I agree. I love it down there. I'm trying to get to Austin and Houston this summer, which is funny because it's summer. But ultimately, one of my favorite food cities, I also got to shout out the Alabama Ice House. Yep. How do you know about all of this? What's your connection? I've written about Houston.
1:07:26I've been a bunch of times over the years at an event down there for a cookbook I wrote. And I think Chris Shepard is one of our greatest chefs in America. And honestly, it's just a really cool city. I love it there. So what would you recommend? What needs to be on my list restaurant-wise? You know what? I think if you're going to get great food in Houston, you know, the Korean community and the Vietnamese communities are really prominent. And I know it's a sprawling city. It's like a lot of driving. And when you pop into like a K-Town or a Viettown, I can't remember the names offhand, but I've had some of the best pho in my life, including in Vietnam, in Houston.
1:08:03Wow. And then it's Chris Shepard, as I mentioned. Great chef. You should check him out. Thank you so much for the recommendations. I mean, I'm down to talk about Houston and whatever. So, okay, so you've got Grisham. Where does this go? I mean, are you going to always be talking to authors? Are you going to talk to fans of crime fiction? That's a great question. I'm really excited because actually later this week, we're recording kind of a special episode that will be the finale to season one. We're going to be talking with Jennifer Barth, who's one of our editors at Knopf, and she kind of specializes in crime fiction.
1:08:29So I would love to bring in, you know, fans of the genre, people who've devoted their careers to the genre as well, and just kind of get their perspectives too. I love that. Yeah. Okay, we can't leave without a couple more picks, favorite books that are maybe coming out. Let's go there because I know you cover this extensively. All right. Absolutely. So I'm going to say I'm looking ahead to the summer. One of my favorite authors, Riley Sager, who's going to be a guest on the podcast. He has this incredible gothic thriller coming out called The Only One Left. It's inspired by Lizzie Borden. So it's all about what would it be like if Lizzie Borden was, you know, an older woman and had this home health aide coming to take care of her.
1:09:02And the home health aide starts to figure out that there might be more to the story than what we actually think happened. The home health aide is solving the mystery. She is. She absolutely. So that's a great one. and I'm also excited. One of my favorite authors, Joe Nesbo, big Norwegian kind of rock star thriller writer. He has a new book out in late May called Killing Moon that's really good as well. Yeah, big Joe fan here. You are? Yeah, definitely. I've read some books. You know what's funny? I'm thinking back. I think the first crime fiction I ever read was Peppermints in the Parlor. Did you ever read this book?
1:09:28No, what is this? It's like I was in like fourth or fifth grade. Yeah. Yeah, I remember it being extremely like very British and very like I was like stunned. I love it. Do you read any like I know I mean, there's a whole world out there of like food inspired cozy mysteries. Have you ever read any of those? No, I don't really read too many mysteries. I feel like it's more genre like I'm blanking right now. But I think if I'll dip into a Joe book once in a while. Yeah. But yeah, I don't really read a cozy mystery. I like that term. Yeah. Well, you have to read The Golden Spoon. You got to give that one try because it is so much fun.
1:10:07I'm super down. Abby, will you come back to the Taste Pocket to talk more about fiction maybe in the fall? We can talk about some of the up and coming titles. I would so love to. And I hope you'll give me a shout if you're in Houston this summer. Absolutely enjoy it. Thanks, Abby Inler. Appreciate it. Thank you so much for having me.
1:10:25The Taste Podcast is hosted by Matt Rodbard and me, Eliza Abarbanel. The show is produced by Shalia Harris and Pat Stango and edited by Clayton Gumbert. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all cool things happening.
From the publisher
The future of food is fungi—at least if you ask Adam DeMartino and Andrew Carter, the cofounders of Smallhold. The new-school farming company grows delicate maitake, spongy lion’s mane, blue oysters, and more of our favorite mushrooms in patented aquarium-like tanks and mega farms across the country. They’re a favorite of buzzy chefs and major grocery chains alike, so today we’re going deep on this mushroom moment and how they’re forecasting the future of fungi.
Also on the show, we catch up with Abby Endler, the host of the great new podcast, Criminal Types. In each episode Abby digs into the real-world cases, research, and obsessions that keep your favorite crime writers up at night. Check out her episode with John Grisham! We also talk about Anthony Bourdain’s underrated crime fiction career.
NYC! Come out to a live taping of the show with special guests Eric Kim and Ali Slagle. May 25 at Rizzoli Bookstore in Manhattan. 6pm. Tickets are free.
MORE FROM SMALLHOLD:
The Mushrooms Will Survive Us [New York Times)]
Mushroom Boom Leads Brooklyn Grower to Plant Its Organic Farms in the West [Forbes]
How We Grow Happy Mushrooms [Smallhold]
Anthony Bourdain’s Literary Legacy in 13 Books [Eater]
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