238: Rick Easton

9 Jun 2023 · 1 h 18 min

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In short

Podcast Summary: This Is TASTE - Episode 238: Rick Easton

Episode Overview In this episode of the *This Is TASTE* podcast, hosts Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard interview Rick Easton, co-owner of Bread and Salt Bakery in Jersey City, New Jersey. The discussion revolves around Rick's passion for baking, his unique approach to sandwiches, and the influence of his time in Italy on his baking style. Additionally, the hosts participate in a fun sandwich draft, highlighting various popular sandwich choices.

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Key Themes and Concepts

Rick Easton's Background and Philosophy

  • Co-Owner of Bread and Salt Bakery: Known for its innovative baking techniques and acclaimed products.
  • New Cookbook: Co-authored *Bread and How to Eat It* with journalist Melissa McCart. Focuses on diverse ways to enjoy bread beyond traditional uses.
  • Inspiration from Italy: Rick discusses how working in various Italian bakeries shaped his baking style, emphasizing the differences between American and Italian bakeries.

The Bakery's Operations

  • Unique Work Hours: Rick works 100-hour weeks, starting at 3:30 AM, reflecting the intense dedication required to run a successful bakery.
  • Product Variety: While primarily a bakery, Bread and Salt also offers sandwiches and pizza, showcasing a hybrid approach to food offerings.
  • Fermentation Techniques: Emphasis on multi-day fermentation for different types of breads.

Bread Quality and Culture

  • Perception of Bread: Discussion on the varying quality of bread in Italy vs. the U.S., with Rick advocating for the recognition of high-quality Italian bread.
  • Bread Literacy: Observations on the growing awareness and knowledge of bread among Americans, particularly post-pandemic.

The Sandwich Draft

  • Format: The hosts engage in a draft, choosing their favorite sandwiches in a competitive and fun manner.
  • Selections:
  • Shalia: Meatball sub, leftovers sandwich, ice cream sandwich, lobster roll.
  • Eliza: Banh mi, grilled cheese, Cubano, BLT.
  • Pat: Roast beef hero, corned beef Reuben, sausage and pepper hero, falafel sandwich.
  • Matt: PB&J, Egg McMuffin, tuna salad with dill, avocado toast.

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Key Takeaways

  • Rick Easton's passion for baking and sandwiches reflects a deep understanding of culinary traditions and modern applications, particularly in bread-making.
  • The podcast highlights the importance of quality ingredients and the cultural significance of bread.
  • The sandwich draft serves as an entertaining segment that showcases various popular sandwich types, allowing listeners to engage with the hosts’ preferences.

Conclusion Listeners are encouraged to explore the fascinating world of bread with Rick Easton and to participate in the ongoing conversation about their favorite sandwiches through the podcast’s interactive segments. The episode combines insightful interviews with lighthearted discussions, making it both educational and entertaining for food enthusiasts.

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Additional Resources

  • Visit Bread and Salt Bakery: [Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/breadandsaltbakery)
  • Learn more about *Bread and How to Eat It*: [Taste Cooking](https://tastecooking.com)
  • Follow hosts: [Aliza Abarbanel](https://instagram.com/alizaabarbanel), [Matt Rodbard](https://instagram.com/mattrodbard)

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This summary captures the key points and discussions from the podcast episode, providing an engaging overview for readers interested in food culture, baking, and sandwiches.

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Transcript

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0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. I'm going to say just in general, I'll preface this statement, this is the kind of stuff that makes me a very unpopular person. I don't really like pizza that much. I think that there's this idea that all pizza is good pizza because it's pizza, you know? Yeah. I don't think that's true. I think most pizza is terrible pizza. Wow. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rothbard.

0:59Rick Easton is co-owner of Bread and Salt Bakery in Jersey City, New Jersey. He's also the co-author of a fascinating new cookbook, Bread and How to Eat It, which he wrote with his partner, the great journalist Melissa McCart. On this episode, we talk about Rick's love of baking, sandwiches, and not following convention in the creation of all of them. We also find out how working in Italy truly informed his unique style that has made Bread and Salt one of the region's most beloved spots. I hope you enjoy learning more about Rick Easton.

1:35Rick Easton, welcome to the Taste Podcast. Great to be here. It's so cool to see you. We caught up like a few weeks ago. We were sharing some pizzas down the street. It was nice to see that you weren't in your bakery. It was at a restaurant down the street from your bakery. It's nice to be in a place that isn't my bakery. It happens rarely, but when it does, it's enjoyable. Because I wanted to get into the hours. You're putting in like 100-hour weeks, it seems, just from talking to you a little bit. Yeah. For a place that's only open three days a week, the hours are really, really long. I mean, I generally, on the days we're open, I go to work at 3.30 in the morning, you know, and basically it's like running until we open at 10 a.m.

2:15At that point, it's like got to bake off all the bread, have to shape focaccia dough, Any other breads that had an overnight bulk fermentation will shape, and I shape. I'm the only one there until like 8 a.m. Bake off a bunch of the pastries. I have to move a lot of the dough around the building just to kind of put them in warmer places. Because we're talking about multi-day fermentation here. On some products, yeah. Yeah. Others, one day. One day. But it's still like we have a walk-in. We also have cool areas in the basement. There's a lot of different products that all get moved. It all gets moved around.

2:52And then, you know, that all has to get baked off out of the oven. Sometimes a little bit of cooking and prep happens too. And then the staff starts coming in at 8 where we start getting set up and ready. And by that point, you know, I'm also during that period mixing dough for the next day, getting that started. And then, you know, have to bake off all the rolls for sandwiches, pizza Bianca, all that kind of stuff. get that, you know, focaccia going usually right before service at 10 a.m. And then we open the doors. We open at 10 o 'clock. As soon as all the other products are out of the oven, make pizza for the entire day, finish at 4 o 'clock.

3:38At that point, start shaping all the dough and have everything ready for the next day. And do it again. Now, I want to back up because you're telling the story of a bakery. and like a lot of people come in here with bakeries and bakeries are cool but this bakery bread and salt is a bakery of much acclaim it's a bakery full of ideas it's a bakery that is that a book is based on bread and how to eat it which we'll talk about and clearly rick if anyone has been following food in the past for the past decade on the east coast your name pops up when we talk about bread in america and i wanted to invite you in and i'm glad you just went right into it to talk about your process because like there's a lot going on in your bakery because it's not just bread so let's hear a little bit about what your bakery is all about right now i mean i was inspired by bakeries in southern italy uh you know mostly rome but of course i've got spend time in naples and different parts of sicily uh trips through calabria uh recently in molise a year or so ago.

4:43And the way a bakery functions there is often very, very different than what you would have in the United States. Like, I feel like the United States, it's a little more common to have kind of very French models of a bakery. Now, ours doesn't necessarily function like a classic Italian bakery either, because we do more. I mean, a lot of times, like pastry would be pretty limited uh you know like there's a panoficio they make bread that's the thing they might have a few different pastries we we do both uh we also offer sandwiches we offer pizza but of course the pizza that that is kind of the thing that the pizza has always been the trick right it's like that's what gets people interested yeah it's like the clickbait it's like the clickbait headline right and everybody thinks of it as a pizza place but it's it's actually a bakery i was respecting it i didn't lead with pizza.

5:35I call it a bakery. I appreciate it. I'm trying. I'm trying. But, you know, I mean, it was it's look, it's my own fault. I created it. But it's, you know, pizza is a way to kind of get people in in a lot of ways. And I think the media has often when when when bread and salt has been written about is very much written about as a pizza place. But, you know, we do do a lot of other things. I mean, of course, everything changed after COVID and through COVID in that whole period. But, you know, pizza, the pizza that we do as well, it's also it's a bakery style of pizza. It's not it's like it's not like Neapolitan style.

6:11Yeah, it's not all the minute. Right. You pick it up and. Well, I wish, you know, we do it. We that is the kind of adaptation. I mean, the style of pizza we do, you know, if it were in Rome, you would have it all on the counter. You would serve at room temperature. That would be the thing. But the American customer wants hot pizza. Yeah. You know, and so we have kind of adapted that style. Like they haven't gotten any smaller. They haven't changed, but we do it to order. Okay. So when you order a pizza, I make the pizza. Big question here. And this is something we've talked about on the show in the past.

6:44Italy is a pizza country. It's a pasta country. But everyone is like the bread in Italy is shit. Oh, no, no, no, no, no. Okay. Because like France is always under the context of France and French baking, bread baking in particular is where most of our letters, our books are based upon and bakeries in America, as you referenced, are based on the French model. But you're like, no, no, no, you're shaking your head. Yeah. I mean, I think that there are bakeries in Italy that are doing remarkable work. You know, I mean, I think a lot of that also, of course, you know, there's a function of economics, there's a function of culture, these things all intertwine.

7:21I mean, I think in a lot of tourist areas, of course, it's hard to find quality stuff. Great point. Great point. Yeah. I mean, I think you have to seek it out. You know, I have never been to northern Italy. I've never been north of Rome, so I can't speak to that. Are you serious? Yeah, dead serious. No, you've never been to Emilia-Romagna? No. I mean, I've been to Molise, but I've never been to Emilia-Romagna. Wow. Cool. So at any rate, but I think that that is a thing. I mean, I think that, you know, I think in northern Italy, there are a lot of bakers doing really kind of innovative and revolutionary kind of things with bread.

7:59And then I think in Rome and further south, there are as well. I think there are somewhat fewer. I think bread fills a slightly different role. I mean, this is a daily product. You know, I think the further south you get, I think it becomes really interesting because, you know, people aren't going to spend more than two euros a kilo. Now, in Milan, they'll spend nine. It's not different than here fundamentally in terms of, oh, you're going to buy fancy bread. You spend more money. It's going to be in like New York or San Francisco where you get those nine dollar baguettes. Sure. Right, right. You know, so there, but it's still like the quality that a lot of places put out is really surprising.

8:39I mean, it's really quite good. Now, I want to ask you, your partner, Melissa McCart, who I adore and is just an incredible journalist. She's your partner on the book and life. And I know you and Melissa, she's the editor of Eater New York and a fine restaurant critic and journalist. And I'll have her on later in the summer. We already have a date planned. Now tell me, when you and Melissa go to a bakery, because I know you go to them, because I know you're a fan of a restaurant, how do you judge a bakery? It's in your intro of your book. You write about this. Well, I mean, I don't get to go as often as I would like.

9:10She probably goes more than I do these days. uh but for me I mean the first thing is always the way it smells you know uh there is a a type of smell I mean and it's like do you smell that that that smell of wheat do you smell that cooked grain or you know I mean there's kind of yeast smells and different types of yeast smells I think there's you know I I think that there is a it would be hard to describe but I I think that there is a certain smell of quality, at least to my nose, that it's like you can go into a cheap, you know, kind of nasty industrial bakery. It has a specific smell. And I think if you go into a place where people are actually using quality flowers, putting some care into the process, I think it smells a little different.

9:57I think the look of the breads is another thing, you know? I mean, what are the colors? Are you looking for darker colors? Meaning, or is there a way to see like the— I think it depends on the bread. I mean, you know, like what you're trying, like every bread maybe should be a little bit different, but, you know, I like to see that. My personal taste is I like things a little bit more on the red-brown chestnut to black end of the spectrum. Well, you think it's like the product is dope because, you know, if it's a little darker, maybe for the naked eye, it's not going to sell off a shelf, but if it's like a known bakery and the bread is great, can go a little darker, go a little more aggressive.

10:38That's the way I read it. I mean, I think it's one of the interesting things about this book, if I can backtrack a little bit. I mean, like the whole process of this thing is this book started in 2015. You know, when I opened a bakery in Pittsburgh, we had an agent. We had a publisher. We went through the whole thing. There was somebody. They wanted the book. We were working with that publisher. They fired three different editors we were working with. Because of you? No. No. I mean, I'd love to think it was because of you. It would be amazing if you were like, well, we went through three editors because we were too demanding.

11:09Yeah, we were so difficult. No, I think it was internal. It's the breaks. It's how it goes. Exactly. So, you know, but then the book got dropped by the publisher. I had closed my bakery in Pittsburgh at that point, moved to New York. Basically, you know, nobody wanted to touch it at that point. And then, you know, it got picked up by Knopf. Yeah, Tom Holt, right? Yeah. Yeah. And, you know, in the last couple of years and it was like, well, let's revisit this. Let's make some changes. Let's do this. But let's put this out into the world. Now, of course, since we started that in 2015 and now here we are in 2023, this book's about to come out.

11:49A lot of things changed, you know. But one of those things is I do feel like there is a lot more literacy with bread than maybe there was in 2015. Such a good point. I mean, we had the sour bro movement during the pandemic, of course. Totally. Everyone bought, we had like, people were buying bread machines. People were buying, yeast was off the shelves. So clearly bread baking with the pandemic became a meme almost. It was huge. But also my observation is that bread, we got out of that funk of like gluten-free, carb-free lifestyles, which was you're shaking your head and I'm glad you're, we kind of like rejected that finally in 2023.

12:30Thank God. Yeah. What do you like? Those are like tough times, like gluten free. But maybe not gluten free. I'm being unfair to that. But like the carb free, like bread is bad is what I'm saying. Sure. I mean, I think like we're over it by now. I mean, you know, I mean, these fashions kind of come and go. You know, everybody's got some latest new health obsession. Yeah. But I think that's pretty much gone. It's great to hear it. Now, bread and how to eat it. It's a huge topic, but it's also quite simple in theory. You know, it's how to eat bread, how to bake bread. This is your title of your book.

13:04How can you summarize the, like, ethic and thesis of this work, which includes many recipes, chapters about pizza, about cooking with bread, about using bread as an ingredient? But what do you have to say about that? Well, so I think that the using bread as an ingredient is central to kind of what I wanted to put across in the book. I think that this idea, I mean, like the title is obviously it's, you know, there's some humor in it. It's great. It's a great title. Let's just applause. Yeah, well, thank you. But, you know, I mean, it's meant lightly, you know. Sure, everybody knows how to eat bread.

13:39But my question in some regards is do they, right? The thing is, like I said, I think there's been a tremendous increase in bread literacy among the American public in the last seven or eight years or so. there's been an explosion of bakeries not just the kind of home baking that happened in in the pandemic but like really high quality bakeries across the United States uh it's been really something to see but I felt like why I started this book and why the idea you know came to me is that it's you know what was true in Pittsburgh in 2015 I'm finding is still true in New Jersey in 2023 where because I'm, for a number of reasons, stubbornness among them, you know, we make loaves of bread that are a kilo.

14:28They're over two pounds. I don't generally make smaller bread, certain types of bread. Maybe I will occasionally. But what happens is, you know, we still have a lot of customers who say, oh, well, I can't, I can't eat a loaf of bread that big. It's going to go bad by the end of the day. Fair question. It's a fair question. I mean, to you, it's like crazy and asinine, but to me and many listeners, it's fair. Sure. Look, I'm not saying it isn't a fair question. I know you're not. But I think, no, no, no. But I think it's okay. But I think that the thing about it to me is I think that you get to know a bakery.

15:05You get to know a style of bread. You have this relationship. This is a place you return to. Like the bread we make, and one of the reasons that I like to keep them a kilo and up in terms of size. Sometimes we do two, three kilos. Big boys. Yeah. Those are cool. But the idea is that it doesn't go bad. It actually stays nice inside for a very long period of time. Our bread, if it's kept and stored properly, it lasts, you know, five, six days. And even then it's like it never goes bad. It just changes. Yeah. Let's talk about your lineup. Like let's get into specifics. Like what is like on your menu right now for breads?

15:43I just want to get into it. Well, that's another little trick in a kind of a funny thing because we don't we generally just have a because I got tired of answering questions about like, well, what is that? What kind of bread is that? What kind of bread is that? And so we just have a sign up that says regular bread and you can buy it either by the whole or the half. The breads that we generally offer in terms of this, we do do all naturally leavened breads, breads with that's kind of a weird term, but, you know, breads with a sourdough culture. We have a range of different flours we work with depending on what day it is.

16:21We do sometimes mess around with some locally grown, like New York State, grown and milled wheat flours, a little spelt, a little rye here and there. I've been playing around a lot with some 100 % Durham wheat breads, some semolina breads that I've really been enjoying. Big in Italy, of course. Of course. You know, big, big, like that's what a lot of their breads are. Yeah, especially in the South. In the South, exactly. I mean, this is like the Peter Reinhart school, right? These naturally leavened breads. Well, I mean, he certainly, I mean, like Peter Reinhart's books are, I mean, they're incredibly valuable, right?

17:03Like, you know, him as a teacher, I think he was very instrumental in kind of an American baking revolution, I think before a lot of other people who are kind of, you know, given that title today of like, oh, this is the guy or whatever. But I think a guy like Peter Reinhart, he's been doing it a long time. Yeah, and his books, we publish his books. He's been on the podcast. Really just a wonderful resource for all levels. Last question about bread. I want to move on to other topics. When you're looking at a crumb, which is when the cross-section of bread and the crumb is kind of like the gooey inside that has a lot of activity going on.

17:36What makes a great crumb for you, Rick? I that it's funny. It's changed the longer I do this. My answer to that question. I mean, I think it it's funny, right, because it all depends on the flour. I think that we're in this interesting place now because of, you know, social media, because of Instagram, because of this kind of explosion in baking. It's like everybody's making these wildly open crumb breads that are completely dependent on very, very high protein bread flours, like white flours. It's like the best, the easiest way that you can get this result. But I don't think that those kind of breads necessarily always eat the best.

18:17Yeah, taste good. You know, right. They look dope on Instagram. Sure, they look real cool. Especially when you're doing like that top filter, you know, the one, the Lux filter, the very nice, the top one. Yeah. You know, your crumb is looking nice. Or they like, you know, everybody likes to increase the contrast, really get those holes. There should be like a crumb filter, like just built in. I'm sure somebody's actually developed some kind of plug in for it or something. But I, you know, to me, I tend to prefer, you know, I mean, like the chur, that's cool, whatever. And in some cases, depending on the flowers used, it's like more or less impressive that you achieve that.

18:49But I think that I like to see an aerated crumb, but not necessarily always so wild. You know, like I like to know that it's going to eat light in the mouth. Like it's going to be soft. It's going to be, you know, not too, too dense and heavy. Yeah, but there is actual structure to it. And it isn't too wild. I love that word when you say some of these crumbs, like can you make a sandwich with that bread? Right. Or I mean, what is the function of the bread? Like how does it work on your table? Like that is, I think that needs to be a question when you're deciding to buy a loaf of bread. You're like, well, what is this?

19:21Does this bread suit the style of food that I eat? Pizza questions. We're going there. This is the pizza section. All right. I'm not going to avoid it. Go ahead. All right, Rick. I got some questions, but just straight up first, your favorite style of pizza, regional, and your least favorite style, regional. We're talking about American or Italian? I mean, I think my favorite style of pizza is pizza in Rome. I mean, the range, and that would be a range. Like, I mean, the kind of more old school, Forno style, very thin, very crispy, oily, eaten at room temperature. I love it, love it dearly. It's very much what inspires what we do.

19:59And then, of course, all the way up to the kind of more modern styles with Gabriele Bonci and some of the more kind of, you know, outlandish, creative combinations of toppings and whatnot. Oh, man, Gabriele Bonci from Netflix, from Pizarium, like super interesting guy. You worked under him. I stodged there briefly. I was at Panoficio Bonci for just under a week and worked with, I mean, I got to spend a little time with him, got to spend some time with his guys, his guy Andre, who now has his own pizzeria. He left recently. They always leave. They always move on. They always leave. Can't keep them forever.

20:35No. But, yeah, I mean, Bonshi is, to me, Bonshi, it's a rare thing, I think, in many of our lives to encounter somebody who is an actual genius. You know, I think we meet a lot of smart people throughout the course of a day even. And we're like, wow, that guy, he's sharp. You know, that woman, she knows what she's doing. But to somebody who's like a genius and just clearly thinks in ways differently than everybody else, that's a rare thing. And so to be able to have that opportunity was certainly, you know, it had an impact on my life and the direction of what I did. Let's get into the nuts and bolts of a stage with Bonchi.

21:11I just want to know, like, did you just pop him an email and just show up? And what are you working on? No, no, no, no, no, no. That all happened through the efforts and good graces of a mutual friend, Katie Parla. Yep. Guest of the show, friend of the show. Yeah, and just a great person. Has incredible cookbooks and, you know, but I've known Katie for a while and she set that up for me. I mean, she knew I was interested and she, of course, knew Banshee from living in Rome and her food tours and everything that she was doing there and her own work and her books. and so she set it up through a guy who was working there at the time, Federico, who spoke some English, Banchi does not, and we were able to make it happen.

21:58And so it's just, you know, it's like I just went to work there in the morning, 4.35 in the morning and, you know, I mean. What are you wearing? What are you showing up in? Well, that was funny because I was showing up in the clothes I always wear. I always wear jeans and like a button-down shirt, you know, in various states of disrepair probably. But you look like you're definitely like the sixth member of Pavement. You've got that vibe going. It's definitely a good look. It's yeah. But they they that was unacceptable to them. They had to get me a chef's jacket to wear while I was there and everything else.

22:29Yeah. You know, I mean, but they take it very seriously. It's a different thing. Making making bread, making pizza there. It's a it's a different kind of profession. It's seen in a slightly different light. So, you know, I donned the Bonshi chef jacket and just kind of worked alongside those guys, did what I could, helped shaping some dough here and there. Oh, you're out of your mind. No, those guys are monsters, you know. But they, you know, I mean, mostly observation, but threw in hands when I could and learned everything I could, asked as many questions as I could. That's beautiful. Yeah. Back to my original question.

23:05You went for the one you like, but let's talk about a pizza style you're not a really big fan of. It could be in Italy. It could be anywhere. I'm going to say just in general, I'll preface this statement. This is the kind of stuff that makes me a very unpopular person. I don't really like pizza that much. I think that there's this idea that all pizza is good pizza because it's pizza, you know? Yeah. I don't think that's true. I think most pizza is terrible pizza. Yeah. And, you know, I mean— This is good for a podcast. Oh, good. But, you know, I think that pizza is, again, you're dealing with culture.

23:40You're dealing with economics. I think that, you know, somebody opens a pizzeria. It's a money-making venture. You've got to be able to make money or else the thing doesn't work. And that has created this strange kind of race to the bottom, I think, in some regards, where it's like the cheapest ingredients, the fastest process. because it's like to do it a lot of other ways requires a certain dedication or craziness that not everybody has or is willing to do or says like, you know, I think that that's one of the problems. I think you look at a place like New York City, for example, I think, you know, this is a place that's known for pizza.

24:19You know, how much of that pizza is actually worth a conversation? I mean, there's pizza everywhere, but how many people within that field have something to say or have something to contribute. Yeah, I mean, it is a commodity product in many parts of our country. We've got a really robust fast food pizza industry. Sure. Do you have a Domino's story? Do you have a Pizza Hut story? Do you have a Hungry Howie's? No, but look, I grew up in Pittsburgh. It's like, you know, and I'll offend all of my Pittsburghers, but the pizza in Pittsburgh is terrible. Yeah. You know, it always had been. It's like, you know, like these places everybody argues over which is better, Minio's or Aiello's.

24:55It's like, you know, come on, neither one. What about L &B? What about Titano's? What about those deep Brooklyn spots that, I mean. Okay, so, you know, L &B is not for me. Okay, fair. I know a lot of people who swear by it. It's my number one. I know it. I know it. People love it. For me, there's got this kind of weird raw dough situation going on that just. It's tough. Completely heard. And very sweet sauce. Very, very much so. That gets a lot for me. Titano's, I feel like I could get a glimpse on how Titano's. Could be very good. I think when I went the night, you know, the time I went, it was at close.

25:33They were in a hurry to get everybody out. It happens. You know. I mean, look, we all have bad days. Yeah, and, like, it is a great topic about timing of pizzerias. I mean, you go early, and it can be bad, too, if, like, the morning shift has had a bad morning. And it's like, what about, okay, this is DeFara. Straight talk, DeFara. Never win. Okay. You got a pass on that one. Yeah. You should ask Katie about that one. She wrote a story. Oh, I loved her story about that one. I edited that story. It was at Food Republic. I was her editor, and I believe she got a death threat from it, and I'm sorry that happened, Katie.

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26:05Yeah, I'm sure she did. I don't know if it's still live. That site might be dead, but it was. Yeah, I mean, but look, I thought that that was actually a great story, and I think that she had a valid point. Yeah, the point was, like, don't use shitty olive oil. Or shitty anything. I mean, it's like if you want to make a great pizza, you've got to use good products. I think, and that's the other funny thing that we're in this moment now, I think everybody wants to say that every like, you know, everybody's taking this approach or you see more and more of, well, we're using the best ingredients. Like we were it's a classic New York style pizza, but we're elevating this and that and the other thing.

26:41And I'm like, you know, you're not. It's like it's marginally better than the crap these industrial places are putting out. Sure. You know what I mean? And at the end of the day, does it matter? I mean, I think people, like, fetishize all this stuff in a, you know, really bizarre way. I think the fights, the death threats, like all these things over pizza, it's maybe a bit much. I agree. And for context, for Katie's story, it was published probably in 2014. And so I haven't reassessed the far. So I don't know what quality of products they're using now. But at the time, she was disappointed in the quality of olive oil that was served with great ceremony in those old tin cans and all that junk.

27:18Well, and look, here's the point about the far. Like having never been there, I'm not going to say anything about it. And of course, the old man is past. Yeah, yeah. But the real point to me that I think is like, you know, worthy of respect, right, is here is a guy who dedicated his entire life to making pizza. He was in that pizzeria every day until he died. You know, that, you know, regardless of his personal taste, regardless of the product being put out, regardless of whether you like it, you don't like it, that deserves some respect. I love that you say that and thank you for bringing it back to that side of the coin because I think like yourself there's real passion there.

27:55And I think back to your other point about why we fetishize certain things. It's like data points. As writers, we need data points. We need to like have XYZ types of yeast or types of fermentation or time. And it gets to be like baseball cards like you're talking about like dumb data points when you're not actually getting the full story, which is like the pizza is good or not good. Sure. And it just gets a little in the weeds. I think it's like that with anything. I mean, I think that it's like, look, I mean, people need content, right? You got stuff you got to write about. I think that pizza and all of this stuff is very, very easy, right?

28:30Because it always pushes these buttons for people that go to this nostalgic place and they remember. Like, you know, I mean, it's like nobody really evolves too far past the point when they're six years old and the pleasure they had getting a pizza, going out with their parents or whatever else. Like it's a special treat. It's a reward. but that changes how the whole culture works then, you know? Have you ever had Detroit-style pizza? Have you ever had ranch dressing on pizza? No, I'm not going to do that. I can't. So I don't like ranch dressing, pizza or no pizza. I feel like, generally, I have an irrational paranoid fear of mayonnaise.

29:06It's this thing, like I'm really freaked out by it. Oh, I mean, ranch is like running shotgun with mayonnaise. Exactly. It's like same family, I'm not comfortable, you know? I mean, look, I think if people like it, it's fine. I don't think Detroit style pizza, I don't actually believe it's a real thing. I think that it was like a thing that was created. I think that kind of blue steel pan, deep, you know, thick style of pizza was like there was probably a practitioner or two of this in Detroit, you know, and that it was maybe had some popularity. But I think it didn't get legs as a style that other people were doing until people took this kind of very obscure style, like maybe practiced by a few people and then spread it around the country via social media.

29:52Everybody's like looking, you know, they want that Frico crust and all that stuff. And they're all showing these similar kind of pictures in the cheese bowl and the entire thing. Is this true enough to you? Look, you're from Michigan. How many people are making that style of pizza? This hurts. I can't believe you actually are saying that Detroit South Pizza may not even exist. Rick, you're right. I agree with you fully. There are a few practitioners in Detroit that do it really well. And I think that there certainly has been a moment where it's been expanded into even the fast food pizza world.

30:22And oftentimes that version of fast food of Detroit pizza is not good. So I agree with you fully. It is a real thing. You have to go to Buddy's. I think that's good. I think Jet's in some ways is industrial pizza, but it's also quite good. And there's a few others that I'm forgetting off the dome. But fetishizing a style of pizza in the way that we've fetishized Detroit pizza is I think I hear that's what you're saying is maybe not your favorite thing. No, I mean, but it's also it's like if you look at anything, like look at the history of pizza. I mean, there's a lot of people who are far more well versed in this topic that have been on this show, I'm certain.

30:57But I would say that, you know, pizza as a thing, as far as I understand it, didn't actually really exist in any more widespread way until the 1940s and 50s, even as like late 40s, early 50s. I mean, sure, there's the whole argument about the early New York pizzas. Lombardi's, of course, the coal guys down on Mott Street. You can go there. They have it from like, you know. But or if you look at the history of pizza in New Haven, for example, I mean, the part of that that I like, right, is that that's a place that all of those pizzerias started as bakeries. And all of those people who came over from Campania were bakers there and they moved to New Haven and opened bakeries.

31:42And the town supported a great number of bakeries because of the high population of Italian immigrants from this area. And, of course, to differentiate themselves or to have more product to sell. I mean, it's a natural thing in a bakery. Your oven, especially with these large masonry ovens, it's like at certain points they're way too hot to bake anything else. Start slinging pizzas. Start putting dough in there, putting toppings. I want to segue to the sauce and to tomatoes. I think I'd like to hear your take on the best tomatoes to buy for making pizza at home. can you can we support like American domestic canned tomatoes from Modesto or do you have to get the ones from Italy look I think you have to get the ones you like my personal taste I don't like American tomatoes you certainly write about that in the book yeah love about your book I I you know like I think that like for example like you know with all respect I think that Bianco Di Napoli is a great it's a really good tomato it's a really enjoyable tomato and I think that's kind of become the go-to uh yeah yeah like the high watermark for american tomatoes though sure you say sure you know i mean look why have a funny story about that you know let's go there at any rate let's go to the story what's the story well no i'll get there what i was gonna say is i think that this thing but i think the american palate those tomatoes are produced they're grown they're done in a way because sweetness is the value i mean i think when you talk to people about what they like in tomatoes, they're like, oh my God, it's so sweet.

33:15It's like candy, you know? Whereas what I like in Italian tomatoes personally is bitterness. So there's like a trace bitterness, a minerality, acidity, like meaty quality. Like there's a, there's a complexity and a depth. Umami even. Absolutely. We could use that word. My Stanislaus story, as an aside, is one of my favorite pizzas that I've had in recent years is this guy out in Brooklyn. He's got a thing, Chrissy's Pizza. Have you heard of Chrissy's Pizza? Only have heard, never have tasted. So he's out there in Bushwick. He's making like 20 pizzas every Monday in his home apartment. And they're really phenomenal.

34:01Like, I mean, the guy's a phenomenal pizza maker. He's 100 % heart. He's given it everything he has. He's putting everything into it. But there's definitely Stanislaus tomatoes on that pie. There's all these ingredients that are not. Polio, maybe. I don't actually know the cheese. Maybe grande. I don't know. But it's, you know, it's all of these things that I'm like, you know, in all of my own snobbery and everything else, I'm like, nah, we don't use that stuff. I use this stuff. And I use all this very expensive, beautiful product. But this guy is using that stuff. he's aspiring to get this classic New York taste.

34:36And he kills it. It's better than any New York slice. Is he doing it like a home oven? Out of a home oven. Oh, man. He's a monster. I love that. It reminds me of Jason LaFerrara, Pizzeria LaFerrara. Very much. Those guys are friends. Those guys need to get on. They haven't done a pop-up in a while. They're overdue. They're overdue. Now, I think your point is so strong about Stanislav's being sweet. And the American palate is sweeter. We know that. We know that we crave sweetness, especially when you put like Pizza Hut as your baseline. Of course. You know, it's just like dough and sweetness. It's like, it's almost like having a dessert for pizza.

35:08Look, sugar in the sauce is a thing that is a widely practiced thing with pizza. It's just not my thing. Exactly. Diplomatic. No, and your pizza is dope, just to reiterate. Okay, I want to hear a little bit about working with Melissa McCarty, your partner. What's it like writing a book with your life partner? It's like probably not easy. Well, I mean, you should ask her that question once you have her on the podcast, because apparently I can be a really difficult and sufferable prick. But, you know, I would say I personally might use the words of impassioned, opinionated, lots of strong ideas makes that it can make me difficult.

35:48But, you know, in some regards, you know, it's it can be a lot right, because it's like, you know, You navigate your way through a relationship and you have a life together and then you suddenly bring in stressful work stuff that you share together. Whereas if you can keep your work stress separate, it's a little easier. But for the most part, there's also things that are really absolutely phenomenal about it. I think a large portion of this book was actually written by me being able to just talk and then her recording everything and making it into complete sentences and lucid and coherent. Yeah.

36:28You know, which was nice because I don't think anybody else would actually be able to do that quite the same. You were telling me that during the recipe development, you would sometimes just write out recipes on large pieces of paper, just whatever you had in handy. Yeah, like, I mean, I'm at work and she's like, hey, we need these recipes by the end of the day or whatever. I want to get this section done. And so I grab a Sharpie and a piece of sandwich paper or whatever else and scratch something out and get it to her. And, you know, but like, you know, I think a lot of other writers, like I said, who didn't, you know, have other reasons to tolerate me would be like, oh, you're no, no, no.

37:03You have to sit down and type this up. I mean, listen, I've written three books with two chefs and I've had scraps of paper in my hand in all occasions. It happens. It's the process when you're – these are chefs who are actually working and active chefs. It's not – like managing the time is impossible. Books are so time-consuming and you just don't – Unbelievably time-consuming. And my thing that I think was so crazy about writing this one – I mean everybody has their stories or whatever. But, you know, in a context of my business in a bakery, our deadlines somehow were Christmas and Easter, which I'm like, this is not possible.

37:39This is this is insane. This is my busiest time of year for anyone working food. Those two holidays. Right. Oh, my gosh. Well, you and Melissa, as Melissa is the editor of Eater New York. Where have you been going out with together or where have you been going out solo that excites you in Jersey City where you're located or in in New York? I'd just love to ask folks in the area where you're going out. Well, I think that's fair. I mean, it's like everybody has their own stuff. It's funny because we don't go out in Jersey City very often. I mean, when we do, we stop down at Raza where we saw you.

38:14Raza, yeah, definitely got a call. That place is great. Yeah. I mean, you know, Dan is a great guy, and they do a good job. So that's kind of something we'll eat in the neighborhood. You know, there's some other places around that I'll occasionally get some takeout from. I mean, you know, but when we go out, we generally go to the city. I often, you know, we don't go out very often. I mean, when I do, it's either I go visit friends. So I go to the long-awaited New Superiority Burger. We've been there a few times already. An absolute bit on the show is the status of Superiority Burger. We will get into that.

38:48So let's leave that for last. Okay, that's fair. That's fair. But so, you know, but I'll go visit my friend Emilio at Emilio's Bellotto. I try to do that every couple of weeks. I love that guy. He's sitting in the front, hanging out, drinking Coke. Yeah. He honestly, why he hasn't been on a podcast, I don't think he would ever want to do it. I've interviewed him. Oh, you have? For print, though. I've never had him on the podcast. I've sat down with him. Yeah. I just think on a podcast, he would be so funny. He's a great guy in just the depth of knowledge and experience. and that back room is where like Leo and Scorsese like hack out their their roles and stuff yeah it's like a favorite of those two individuals he he is and he but he's he's a great guy and he's been a big supporter of what I do that's cool and so like I like to go down and see him and great food food Emilio Spolato is excellent absolutely it's son Anthony running the kitchen I mean you know dad oversees everything but uh you know uh we do that but generally when we go out we go out for Chinese food we go out for for different regional Chinese food it's harder now Now living in Jersey City as it was when we lived in Queens, of course, because you could shoot up the Flushing or Helmhurst or any number of places.

39:55But, you know, we mostly stick to Manhattan now just because of travel times and time constraints. But, you know, I mean, that's to me always one of the most exciting things about dining in New York is that there's so much of this available and there's always more coming. It's like there's so much to discover, so much to learn. and for me to go out and eat food that I can't make myself, that's what I want to do. But it's really got to impress you too. Absolutely. Because you make a lot of food yourself. Now, back to Brooks, I know there was a period where you were working out of his second kitchen.

40:26You were making focaccias and just hanging out, right? Well, I just, you know, I think there was a period of underemployment in my life. Unemployment to underemployment when I was living in New York and trying to kind of figure out what it was I was going to do and how I was going to do it and everything else. And Brooks was a good friend, you know, and supporter of what I did. And I did a lot of pop-ups at Superiority Burger. And I definitely, you know, I hung around a lot. Like, it was a great place to be, you know. You know, all 175 square feet, how they could fit another, you know, body in the room, especially one like mine that's kind of large and awkward.

41:07It's like, but, you know, spent a lot of time there, worked on stuff with those guys. It's helped them develop their focaccia recipe, which they do a phenomenal job with. It's phenomenal. And I love that the new restaurant has that actually on the sign. Absolutely. It's such a good product. I mean, it's an excellent product. I mean, they really kill it. And they've, you know, it's just, you know, incredibly consistent, just a beautiful, beautiful product. Let me ask you, what's the scene check at Superiority Burger? What are you liking on the menu? What's the vibe like inside? I mean, this is truly like the third time I've talked about it with three different guests, and I'm going to talk about it with more until I go myself.

41:43That's very well. You're going to have to go yourself. I mean, I would say that what I like, I mean, like the food's great, but the most exciting thing, because this is the newest thing, is the room. Like the room itself feels so good, and it feels so good with a lot of people in there having a great time. And it's just, it's a lively, fun space. It's, you know, service is pretty smooth. I mean, speaking of pavement, you've got Mark eyeballed like slinging drinks. You've got like, you know, great photos on the wall of each corner of the space. Right. I mean, it's a great room and it's really, really fun.

42:20And it feels like the natural evolution of what Superiority Burger should be. I mean, I think that the thing that I think actually one of the things about the original Superiority Burger that was always remarkable was the level of hospitality and service they were able to provide. in a six-seat restaurant with a takeout-only format, you know, which is pretty crazy. Yeah, there'd be like a boat that lands on your plate. I mean, for anyone, like Brooks would always give you something special, no matter if he knew you or not. It just happened a lot there. Right, just taking care of details, paying attention to those details, taking care of people who come in and making sure that people are having a good time and getting what they need.

42:59And, I mean, they've always been very good at that. And so now to kind of see that unfold in a, you know, I don't know, what is it, a 70-seat restaurant or something like that? What's the order? What's the big order? Well, I mean, I think the order is, like I said, the focaccia. I like the collard green sandwich on focaccia. Also the Yuba Verde, you know. I think you get one or both of those. Lentil soup. Yeah, I've heard that lentil soup sneak into convo a little bit, which is like clearly not a meme-worthy dish in general. No, but I mean, you know, how do you go wrong with lentil soup? Everybody eats lentil soup.

43:34Everyone eats it when it's good and when it's seasoned. It's like monster ball soup. Like when it's good, it's good. That's it. That's it. So, you know, it's good. You know, lentil soup, I would say get a couple of salads and then pick a few desserts. You probably don't want to have just one. The desserts are fantastic. Yeah. Heard he's okay with that. Yeah. Dessert game. Exactly. Okay, let me close by asking you, if you could have a restaurant name a menu item after you, what would that be and what would the style of the restaurant be? Well, I would really hope that that never would happen. Why?

44:03Actually. It certainly is going to happen. No, I think that that is, you know, that's like, that would just feel very strange to me. I don't think I would ever be able to go to that restaurant again. But in the hypothetical world. I would say that, you know, if they were going to do it, I would hope that it would be something that's made with stale bread and beans. Oh. You know, because that's like, to me, that's very much at the heart of what I do. and who I am as a person. It's just these simple, simple, humble things that are incredibly satisfying, that are incredibly, I mean, maybe a little drab to look at, you know, but like those are my favorite recipes in the book, all of the dishes with cooked bread, you know.

44:51I think it's something that's kind of not in most people's repertoire. It's something we like to serve at the shop a lot when we can, and it's amazing. very, very, you know, down to earth, humble, but very kind of satisfying and fulfilling kind of dish. What's it called? What's the name of the dish? Pentecote. Pentecote. The beans manifesto in the book too, I forgot to mention, it's just amazing. The length and time you've put into actually writing about cooking beans. In a book called How to Eat Bread, there's a lot of beans content in there. I love beans. I mean, that's a funny thing. Actually, Brooks, when his cookbook came out, the Superiority Burger cookbook, not the fancy dessert but the Superiority Burger cookbook he had an event scheduled where he was supposed to talk about the book at the Museum of Food and Drink there in Brooklyn and instead he invited me and one of the guys who now owns Yellow Rose who used to work for him Dave Rizzo to host a panel discussion on beans and so we did host a panel discussion on beans for over an hour and we made beans and shared beans with everybody.

46:02I wish I was there. Those are three extremely great, cool chefs in New York. Yeah, it was a really fun event. But beans have always been, you know, to me, I think beans and bread are, you know, it's one of the most beautiful things you could ever eat. Oh, yeah. You know, and I think there's a lot of people in the world who that is pretty much what they eat. That's the only thing they eat. And like a panel discussion about beans can certainly get long-winded. Yeah, that's good. Had to do it. Couldn't resist. Had to kick on it. Rick Easton, thank you so much for joining the Taste Podcast. Absolutely.

46:34Great pleasure to be here.

46:44Hey, guys. I'm here with Shalia, Eliza, and Pat. What's up, guys? Sandwich, sandwich. Ready to fight. Ready to fight. So we're back. I'm ready to eat. You're ready to eat. Yeah, I know. It's late in the day and we're just going to do content without food, food content without food. Now, we are here to draft again and we had a great time drafting farmer's market produce. I felt that that was a successful draft and we want to come back with another draft. But right now, the idea is sandwiches. So excited. So I want to open with a little bit of like Q &A because I think there's definitely going to be some debate about what is a sandwich, what isn't a sandwich.

47:25So participants, guys, any questions? I want to say off the bat, I'm already broken hearted that off the mic I was told I can't use hot dogs. I know. Why not? Because it's one bun. Why not? Yes. Okay. I think it's because it's one bun. It's a solid bun. As in a taco is not a sandwich either. And you're going to have an issue with some of my choices, let me tell you. Okay, open face. Okay, so like let's, man, we're getting into it. Isn't a hot dog just an open face sandwich? I feel like an open-faced sandwich could potentially be a closed-faced sandwich, too, in most cases. A hot dog could get pretty closed if you really want it.

48:00You know, I mean, you could pull that bun pretty tight. You could definitely close it, but it's not closed on top and bottom. It's going to have an opening on the roof. If we don't move past this now, we're never going to. Yeah, this is not great content. I have a second clarifying question, which is, are we doing specific sandwiches or are they general sandwiches? Okay, great question. And when I wrote the email to you guys, I thought I had clarified that, but maybe I didn't. That was absolutely not passive aggressive. Maybe I didn't read the email, right? Or it was quarter passive aggressive.

48:27Okay, so here's the deal. Definitely thinking general sandwiches. But if there is an iconic sandwich that is a proper noun, meaning it was part of a campaign, a fast food campaign, so to speak, that could work. I don't think we go into like regional niche fast food items. I feel that that will definitely skew a little too esoteric. Let's just get into it. And if somebody feels strongly that the selection is not a sandwich, just say it right away. So we're going to draft in order. It's going to be Shalia, Eliza, Pat. Myself, it's a snake draft, so I will pick fifth. And we'll go back to Pat for sixth.

49:06Shalia, you are on the clock. Do you have a selection for the first pick? in the 2023 sandwich draft. Oh, boy. All right. So I already told Pat this yesterday. I am coming here with an agenda. And that agenda is to talk about my favorite Italian pork store in all of New York City. They are called Ceriso. They're in Astoria. And they are just incredible. They make fresh mozzarella that's like with flaky salt on the top. And the reason I am bringing them up is I love their meatball sub. Can I go sub? Meatball sub. Absolutely off the board. Number one pick. All right. Yeah, it's fantastic. Like they got famous because I guess when Robert De Niro was shooting a Bronx Tale, he would like have their food brought to set.

49:52And so now it's become this like neighborhood institution. And like you order their meatballs. You order their meatball subs. They give you like fresh moths while you're in there. Oh, nice little snack. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And they're fantastic. All right. Meatball subs is off the board. Eliza, you got a pick too. Okay. I'm gonna do Banh mi as my sorry absolutely my number one sorry so good sorry and just the context for me in the sandwich draft as a whole is that I I'm not a huge meat eater and I really don't like deli meat that much in general so this is one of the few like meaty sandwiches that I'd really ride or die for and I think a banh mi is just perfect so let's break it down it truly was my number one pick so you took my number one pick oh no no it really was my number one pick that is my favorite sandwich is the banh mi Oh, I feel bad.

50:38No, no, this is a draft. There's no feeling bad. Okay, great. I feel great. No, let's just break it down though. What makes a great banh mi? Do you have a blend? I have a kind of my own thought on a blend. No, I don't really have a strong thought on a blend per se. I think it's just about having that nice balance of acidity and brightness from the pickly things and the herbs and then like the pate and everything else that's going on. And I think that the bread is really important, but I would love to know what your platonic ideal banh mi is so I can steal that order. Definitely. I mean, the real consistent or the constants is marinated pork and pate.

51:12So like those kind of working together. But you've then got like the pickled, like you've got a sweet julian cucumber typically and pickled daikon and carrots, like usually a combination of the two. You can sometimes see just carrots. Yeah. When I was interviewing Andrea Nguyen on the podcast, she was saying pickled daikon is her must have in a banh mi because it has that funk. 100%. I think you need the funk. I think too much carrot is too sweet. And then you've got cilantro, culantro. You've got, it's coriander. You can call it many different things. It is the absolute essential herb, I think, for a banh mi for me.

51:47Okay, that's my pick. And then you've got jalapenos too. And the bread is important. Important. It's all important. It's all important. Bread is always important, but for the banh mi. So the number two pick is banh mi. I like that. Pat, you're up. All right. So right off the bat, Shalee, you got my meatball sub. off the board. I'm glad, though, it is the number one pick. It deserves that spot. So with that off the table, I am going with a roast beef hero. And I'm specifically calling out from the old neighborhood from Bensonhurst. I'm going to call out John's Deli on Stilwell Avenue right next to the garage clothing store.

52:22So you can get an oversized suit or you can get a roast beef hero. So this thing is... Don't limit yourself. You could have both. Oh, I mean, that's a big day. I'm literally saving this to my Google map right now. So it is their classic sandwich is a hero, roast beef, melted mozzarella. It's their gravy. It's great, wrapped up in a paper plate and then wrapped up in tinfoil. And that is, you know, if I had the number one pick, I probably would have picked this. This is an incredible sandwich. What's, so gravy is the condiment? It's Sunday gravy? Yes. So it's like sauce. It's a sauce. No, no, no.

52:59Not Italian gravy. Actual like roast beef. Oh, sorry. I was kind of like thinking, wow. No, no. So this is not a Parmesan sandwich. No, no. This is a roast beef with traditional gravy. Whoa. See, I was thinking it'd be more like in the Italian like vinegar and oil. No, no. This is a classic roast beef. Roast beef, but like. A lot of roast beef on Italian bread as a hero. Oh, man. Not open-faced. It's closed. It's wrapped up. You could eat it on the street. So go down to Stalewell Avenue and tell them Pat sent you. All right. Well, I have the fourth and the fifth pick. So I'm in that little pocket.

53:37So I'm going to go one, two. Number one is PB &J. Number one. I feel like outside of the banh mi, I was going to say PB &J. To me, this is my most consumed sandwich. What's your jelly? Right. So that's the question. Well, first, let's talk about the bread. The bread has to be soft. There's no like crunchy peanut butter and jelly. Some people think that that's actually a thing or like an English muffin. No. Creamy peanut butter, not crunchy. I think the Wegmans brand peanut butter is pretty good. And for condiment, it's definitely raspberry. No? No. I'm just thinking about it. Yeah. I'm a, I love like an apricot jelly or like even an apple jelly.

54:17And are you cutting it diagonally? Yes, I am. Good. But see, I also love the idea of just making it for myself and not packaging it into like a container and then taking it somewhere. But like making it and then not cutting it and being like, yo, I'm going to fucking eat this like whole. That's actually terrifying to me. You're just chomping the whole piece of bread. You're not cutting it? No. Extremely chaotic energy. It's chaos, but it's the best way. Matt, this is easily the most unsettling thing I've ever learned about you. Eating a full sandwich, no cut. I don't cut my PB &Js. Guys. Pat. What are we doing?

54:51Got my back. Yeah. My guy. But think about how pleasing it is to eat the little corner of the diagonal sandwich. You don't get that if you're just chomping into it. The ratio of like crust to filling is different. Me and Matt don't got that kind of time. We got to chomp. I like fighting for that perfect pocket and maybe it's the third bite. But when you get that perfect third bite, it's perfect. Just put it in a paper plate and roll it up in tinfoil and eat it on the street. Like a euro. Yeah. All right. So for the fifth pick, I'm like definitely I was thinking about this and I was like, I have this sandwich of mine.

55:27I think about it a lot. I order it a lot. It's from a restaurant and that restaurant is McDonald's and the sandwich is the Egg McMuffin. Oh, that's all right. All right. To me, the Egg McMuffin, I do not really tend to go to McDonald's outside of breakfast. It's the only time I really go there, except in March during Shamrock Shake season. but to me the egg McMuffin is perfect. The egg is always cooked perfectly and I love ham and I just think that I like an English muffin in this context. It's so good. You're making me want to revisit my take on egg McMuffins right now. Haven't thought about them in years but I feel like maybe I get one tomorrow.

56:03I don't know. They have to be from McDonald's though. You can't get the frozen versions. You know what I mean? Or even doing it yourself isn't as fun? So I have a friend's mom who since college, it was college friends, every year we end up going to this friend's house, his childhood house on Long Island, and his mom the day after Christmas will make us Egg McMuffin sandwiches. That is such a gift. That were deemed Egg McMommies. And it is a tradition that has lasted to this day that we still will go the day after Christmas and his mom will make Egg McMommies sandwiches. is for a group that has gotten up as high as 30 people in some years.

56:47Wow. It's gotten lower now. Boxing Day McMuffins. Yeah. I've gone status, honestly. Absolutely. All right, Pat, you're up. All right. So I am going, listen, calling out the big names here. I'm going to Katz's and I'm getting the corned beef root. No. Oh, no. I'm doing it. Oh, no. You sent the entire room into disarray. No, but you didn't take the right choice. Well, I'm guessing someone might be thinking it's pastrami, but. But I am going corned beef. I love it. I love it. Go, King. I mean, it's just my go-to when I go to Katz's. Love the Russian dressing, the tangy sour cream. Matt is in disbelief.

57:31But you know what? This is an opportunity for you because the pastrami is still on the board. I'm a little flabbergasted that you would go with corned beef over pastrami. I think pastrami at Katz's is truly one of the best restaurant dishes in the world. Absolutely perfect. I mean, it's great, but I'm a corned beef guy. No, I respect that. Respect the choice. I just don't agree with it. You know what's great is we're going to possibly get to go to Katz's twice in this episode. Possibly. I mean, OK, we'll see. It's not my... OK, anyways, Eliza, you're up. My draft pick is going to be... It was going to be Ruben.

58:10I'm going to say grilled cheese. Oh, no. I love a grilled cheese. You took it. I mean, it's so funny to me that every one of these sandwiches I think is in our list. I feel like for the fruit draft, there was basically zero unity at all. I mean, sandwiches are personal and there's maybe not a lot of good sandwiches out there, I guess. I don't have I mean, there's a lot of good sandwiches. I don't have a lot to say about a grilled cheese because everyone's had one and we all know how good they are. My perfect grilled cheese, I would say, is like a Swiss, like Gruyere, kind of stretchy white cheese blend on like, honestly, rye, which is maybe controversial.

58:46I kind of like the dark light combination. And if I'm making them at home, I'll add kimchi or scallions or other things. But just a classic normal grilled cheese is still really good. I don't like cheddar. I don't like American cheese. That's my caveat. Let's go around and get everyone's grilled cheese. Shalia, you're up. I won't get into it because this is, I guess, no longer my pick, but I do. The thing I really love about grilled cheese is it's like it has this like homey, like nostalgic feel, but like you can still like elevate it. And that said, like my favorite is like like I love like either a goat cheese arugula situation or like an apple bacon brie.

59:23Wow. I think that's such a that's such a good combination is like so far from what I'm thinking myself. Pat, what's your grilled cheese? I mean, my grilled cheese is just more cheese than you would normally think to put on there. I'm a, could we do three slices on there? Let's do three slices. Could we get up to four? I don't know. Maybe. We'll see. But that's, you know, whatever the cheese is, just give me an extra slice of it. Do you ever put it on the outside of the bread so that you get like a little Vulcan-style, like, crispy cheese? Yeah, like this. The Frico? Yeah, the little twisted. the cheese crust.

1:00:00Yeah. You can do a whole like extra thing of cheese on the bread side, you know? Yeah. Well, first I have to shout out the grilled cheese we had in Koreatown, which was on a Hawaiian roll. It was brie and green apple and kimchi with a goji jian mayo smashed and then gone on both sides. I love that. But my grilled cheese is like childhood grilled cheese. It's three slices of Kraft on white bread with mayonnaise on the outside. And like clarified or just crazy butter in the pan and just like smashing it like or not smashing it, but like tapping it down and just making it that stretchy like food styley one.

1:00:40You just reminded me of another sandwich when you said smashing it down. So I'm excited. But I think it's Shalia's turn. You're up. All right. So I think I'm going to move to. Does this count as a sandwich? Like a leftover sandwich. so I feel like the most common example of this is like the classic like Thanksgiving sandwich but I argue you can do this all year like for example I went to Pio Pio for dinner like a couple weeks ago and like ordered entirely too much chicken like I don't need a half a roast chicken I'm one person um and then like had like leftover like maduros and like the green sauce and like had like fresh bread at home and just ate that for two days and it was just the most delightful thing just like make your leftovers new.

1:01:29Love that idea. It's like a construct. All right. And Shalia, via snake draft rules, you have a double pick. I'm going to go ice cream sandwich. I'm getting real kooky with my sandwiches. I'm sorry, Pad. No, that's great. He's like raised his fist into the air. That was a happy raising my fist because I hadn't thought of that, but that's such a, it's such an inspired pick. It's definitely an inspired pick. I just fell in love. Please continue. I love it, yeah. So, okay. specifically I was like I hosted an Oscars party once and this might be common knowledge to everyone else but I'm easily impressed a friend of mine brought like a bunch of pints of ice cream and then was just like taking like a butcher knife to him and slicing him and then had like fresh baked cookies so good so now I do this my favorite is like the Van Leeuwen's like Earl Grey tea ice cream between like two lemon cookies and it's just my favorite thing in the entire world Oh, man.

1:02:19Delightful. What a fun way to, like a great party favor. Yeah, yeah. Are you doing the hot knife trick to cut the ice cream? No, but I should. This is the trick, yeah. Okay. Hot water on a knife, it'll just glide right through. That's so smart. Yeah. Is it my turn? All right. It is your turn. Okay, I'm looking at my list because Matt just kind of shook everything up for me. Yeah, I'm going to say Cubano as my next one. When you said press it down on the grilled cheese. That's so my pick. You took Banhmi and Cubano. They're sitting next to each other on my list, on my paper. And you gave me the idea, but I do really like them.

1:02:57And I was in Miami, and I had a bunch of good ones. And also, I had a really good one right by our offices. There's a place in Times Square. Soapies. No, a different one, but that one's good, too. It's called Margon, and they do Cubanos. We should all go sometime. Margon sounds good. Yeah, love one. what makes it so let's break down the components in your like what kind of cheese is typically kind of component for you oh i mean it's whatever they normally are having right i feel like it's like a white cheese like swiss kind of vibe is what i think of yeah usually at least in new york i've never been to miami so i don't know that style but um and then it's like pork yeah and you know a little bit of like pickle vibe i think to me the fact that you have this bread that's being pressed down so it's like a cracker when you first break through it and then it's fluffy It's just so good.

1:03:44And I feel like I said I don't really like meat and that all of my sandwiches have been meat sandwiches because I have niche ones that I don't think fit for this. But a Cubano is just so good. You absolutely have stolen two of my picks. So thank you very much. Great minds. All right. So I am next and I'm going to go back to the hero genre and I'm going to go with a sausage and pepper hero sandwich. Man. No cheese. Again, this is not Parmesan. John, this is just sausage and pepper. And this is a great to, you know, Shalee was talking about leftovers. There's a great use of leftover. You make sausage and peppers, and the next day you got sausage and pepper sandwich for lunch.

1:04:23I love that. So there's questions here. Are we thinking more of the Polish side, or are we thinking more of the Italian side? I mean, I'm thinking Italian side. All right, all right. Because I feel in Chicago, they've got, like, Polish-style sausage and peppers going on. No, I'm thinking like you've like sliced up the sausage. So it's little pieces of sausage in there. Pat, I have a question for you. I know we're not going niche, but have you been to Rocco's? How do you feel about it? I'm not sure if I have. So you know the Home Depot in Astoria and they have that little shack? Like it's like outside the Home Depot.

1:04:58Like you're walking out and they have the. Yes, I have been there. What are your thoughts about their sausage? It was good. Yeah. No, that was really good. Yeah. And Home Depot had the light bulbs I was looking for. So it was a great afternoon. It's great. Nice. All right. So that was I'm going sausage and pepper. So next up with two picks to close out his draft, it's Matt. All right. I got two picks to close. I can't believe I've gone this far. We've gone this far. And I'm just going to take tuna salad right now. I'm taking it right now, but I'm taking it with dill. Tuna salad with dill. That's the only way I like tuna salad.

1:05:36Okay. I'm scared to speak because I realized what my favorite sandwich is that I haven't said. And I'm waiting for you to see if it's going to be the next one. I have no problem with dill. I'm down for dill. Because I saw your face. I was like, what? No, I had a moment of realization where I was like, I'm an idiot. How have I not said this sandwich? So tuna on rye is my thing. Definitely needs like a firmer bread. I don't like a soft tuna salad, though. My mom back in the day would always make it on like soft bread. And, you know, it's nice. But I feel like or even toast needs to be toasted. Caviar, I hate a tuna melt.

1:06:05I think they're really bad, but that's just me. What's in your perfect tuna salad? Definitely a lot of mayonnaise, pickles, lots of dill as mentioned, a little bit of celery, celery salt, a little bit of Dijon mustard, and that's it, yeah. And it has to be broken down and definitely whipped up. Like I like New York City deli style. Now growing up in the Midwest, I never really had that. like that whipped up super mayonnaise-y style of tuna salad. It was always a little bit like flakier in my household. Probably healthier because it's like the 90s. And yeah, read the 90s. Yeah, keep it simple. I love that.

1:06:41It sounds great. Controversial, but my last pick is the avocado toast. Open face. I wasn't sure if that counted. It counts. And I'm calling it. I'm calling it because I think obviously, Eliza, your face, you're just ready to jump in. I'm going to burst. All right. Please continue. Well. It's not even my turn. I definitely was part of the like communal shade towards avo toast and that whole meme, but I was secretly along the way enjoying an avocado toast at many restaurants that I would go to. I would often make them at home. And yes, it's an import from Australia. And yes, avocados have been around forever.

1:07:18So likely there was avocado toast in Mexico well before their avocado toast in Australia. And we've written about that on taste. but I just love it so much. Do you put anything on the avocado? Yes. I like putting this. So I have two ways to think of it. I like putting something like a spice mix. So even like a dukkah or za 'atar, I've done that before. I like a kind of a more flavorful spice blend. I've also put some astringent chili on it in the past. It needs something to cut through the avocado, so chili crisp or fried garlic. I can get into that. Oh, yeah, I could get into that. I've been doing furikake with red pepper lately.

1:08:00Furikake is great, too. So. All right. So I'm up next. And I don't know if there's going to be any argument whether this is a sandwich or not, but I'm going to say falafel, a falafel sandwich, which on the menus, it says falafel plate or falafel sandwich. The word sandwich is built in there. A little bit of a stretch. But it's in a pita. It's in a pita. Yeah. If he gets this one, I get like carte blanche on my next one. So there's that much pushback on a menu item that says sandwich. It's in the taco hot dog realm. It's in the hot dog realm, but not the taco realm because it's a pocket of something.

1:08:40Oh, it closes. It closes. Yeah. I mean, you could see what's inside, but I think, you know, as a producer here, I think I'm going to put the stamp of sandwich on this. I respect it, Pat. And you definitely have final say. There you go. And listen, I love a falafel. I don't, it's not, it's the type of sandwich I never make at home, unlike a sausage and pepper or something like that. It's only, it's a treat going somewhere, getting some falafel, walking through the streets in New York City with the falafel drip that you're avoiding as you walk, which is my favorite part. I love when a sandwich gives you like an activity to do, which is to avoid the drip out.

1:09:23Avoid the drip is key. Yeah. Is it Tayeem? Is it Mamoun's? Do you have a place? I mean, I went to NYU years ago, so I'm always going to be a Mamoun's guy. Yeah. I love that. God, I miss living within walking distance of Mamoun's. Yeah. Yeah. That's a good one. That's my final pick is the falafel sandwich. Respect it. Do you like hummus on it? Not especially. Prina? Yeah. Do you like tahini on it? I like tahini, yeah. All right. What about pickles? Um, I'm not asking for extra pickles. All right. Respect. And you're doing like the full like salad or. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. Big salad. Yeah. Yeah.

1:09:58Yum. So there we go. So I go falafel. Eliza, you are up with your final pick. Okay. I'm sorry for making a scene, but this is actually my favorite sandwich. BLT. Oh, my God. How did we get this far without BLT? So that's what I realized. And I was dancing around it. I was saying all of these other pork sandwiches. but BLT, God tier sandwich. The reason why I keep bacon, I do not cook meat at home except I make BLTs at home and I keep bacon year round, not year round. In the summer, I always have bacon because I'm always making BLTs. Yeah, it's definitely a summer market. Are you going full heat bacon or are you going like turkey bacon?

1:10:38No, pork bacon, turkey bacon if I'm cooking for some of my friends that don't eat pork, but just, you know, maybe I'll grate some garlic into my mayo if I'm being fancy. Maybe not. Lots of good lettuce. I feel like also I buy a lot of lettuce in the summer and it goes bad fast. So the BLT is kind of helping everyone along. Good tomatoes. I would do a tomato sandwich without the bacon, but a BLT to me is just the perfect food. I feel BLTs for me is like, you know, August 15th through September 7th. That's like truly when I make them. When the tomatoes are really good. Yeah. New York, at least, that's when they are.

1:11:12Yeah. I think I do wait for them. I get a little impatient at a certain point in the summer, but also they're a very nostalgic food for me. Growing up, bacon was like the only pork my family would cook in the home. I don't know why that was the exception, but BLTs are just like pure summer nostalgia. Love that. All right. So Shalaya, you've got the final pick. And, you know, after the whole falafel debacle, I think you're going to have a wide range on what a sandwich could be. I just think if we've set the precedent that a pocket is a sandwich, I'm going lobster roll like I'm doing it. I mean, I can't be the one to argue against this because I'm the falafel guy.

1:11:50I think it's absolutely a fair argument. This is digressed. This is devolved. We're at the final chapter. We're at the final round. What's the mystique for you? I mean like I can also be picky technically about a lobster roll like I definitely love like a more mayo base than a butter base although I'll eat like hand me a lobster roll I'll eat any of it but for me I think it's like really environmental in the same way that you were talking about like bacon is the way that I feel about lobster um like it just reminds me of summer reminds me of vacation uh my partner's family lives on Cape Cod my brother lives like out on like Block Island sound like just like give me a lobster roll like on a deck somewhere with like a light beer in the summer and it's like oh man i am in my best place and this is like new england style yes so yes split split top bun yes yes yes has to be thank you yeah i think split top and then like definitely nice butter like like clarified butter on the on the bun oh on the bun yes yes yes um but you do like you like a mayonnaise based one i prefer but i also will take like a like dredged butter lobster roll as well.

1:12:59So yeah, that's really the difference. It's like the butter base or the mayonnaise base. But you prefer mayonnaise. Yeah, they're both fantastic. They're both good? I'm just on the Wikipedia for a sandwich looking up the definition right now. I don't know if it's relevant at this stage. It's a little late in the game, Elijah, but I appreciate your kind of sticking with the rules. Yeah, I mean, it's very vague. I think that whatever we want can be a sandwich. And I think a lobster roll is like the perfect one to end on. I have to say, I've been to some stupid media events over the years, just working media.

1:13:27and I think the greatest media event to my life was when I went to an event and it was all you could eat lobster rolls. Oh, I would have hurt myself. I did. I mean, I hurt myself because like Luke's was set up and they were like, it was basically just like one of those like trucks and you could just like keep going up to like the truck. How many times did you go back? I mean, if I'm going to say four, what do you think? I'd buy that. Yeah, that seems right. Lobster rolls are so expensive. That's respectable. That's what I'm saying. Like that's like almost a hundred bucks, man. If you eat three figures worth of lobster rolls, man.

1:14:00Shall I just give us a quick recap of what our teams are? I love it. Yeah. So Shalia's sandwich team is meatball sub, and then it's leftover sandwich, which I love. Then ice cream sandwich, and then lobster roll. So Shalia, I think most creative team, I think, is going to end up going to Shalia. Yeah, you're like the wild card Maverick. No, really good stuff there. So then Eliza's sandwich team is the banh mi and the grilled cheese, the Cubano and the BLT. Wow. A real classic. Real classic. Really like my list basically that you stole. Look, I didn't choose to go first. It's the luck of the draft.

1:14:43Two of four were on my list for the top four. All right. And then Team Pat is the roast beef sandwich from John's Deli, corned beef Reuben, sausage and pepper hero. and the falafel sandwich. Nice. Very New York-like. Exactly. I was about to say. So I was going to say that. And then. You live your truth right there. Listen, you stay in one place forever, you're going to get to like their sandwiches. And aside before we get to the final, have you been to Pat's in Philadelphia? Have I been to the cheesesteak? Yeah. Yes, I have been. I love cheesesteaks. I love that. I also love that cheesesteaks are not in our draft.

1:15:21I'm just like very proud of us. I thought about it. I'm very proud. Yeah. Well, listen, taste is based in New York, so. So proud. All right. And then the final team is Team Matt is PB &J, Egg McMuffin, Tuna Salad with Dill. I had that noted. And then Avocado Toast. Kind of like the All-American one. I know. It feels a little modern. Yeah. It's the Midwestern sandwich guy. I feel I need a Cubano on there, and it's going to feel right. You want to trade me? Yeah, I do. We can do some trading off mic. So, okay. On mic, yeah. So, Cubano, what is it going to take? I'll trade you PB &J. Uh-uh. That's still my number one.

1:16:04I'll trade you tuna salad. I'll definitely give you that trade. Appreciate it. I have a lot of pork going on. So I'll do that one. You're welcome. I feel like it's complete now. All right. Well, it's got to go through the commissioner's office first before the trades are approved. So we'll let listeners know in a future episode of Trade went through. Okay. But, yeah, that's our draft. I think listeners should vote on which sandwich team they want to. Yeah, if you made it this far, definitely write in. Below at tastecooking.com, H-E-L-O at tastecooking. Who won out of the four of us? Who won? Whose team do you want to eat the most?

1:16:38We will say your name and we will say your pick on a future episode. All right. I got to go eat a sandwich. Yeah. Thanks for drafting, guys.

1:16:52This is Taste is hosted by Eliza Abarbanel and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is produced by Shalia Harris and Pat Stango and edited by Clayton Gumbert. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Visit Taste online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all cool things that are happening.

From the publisher

Rick Easton is co-owner of Bread and Salt Bakery in Jersey City, New Jersey. He’s also the coauthor of a fascinating new cookbook, Bread and How to Eat It, which he wrote with his partner, the great journalist Melissa McCart. On this episode, we talk about Rick’s love of baking, sandwiches, and not following convention. We also find out how working in Italy informed his unique style that has made Bread and Salt one of the region’s most beloved spots. We hope you enjoy learning more about Rick Easton.
Also on the show, Aliza and Matt are joined by producers Pat and Shalea for a sandwich draft. That’s right, it’s an NBA-style snake draft, separating the BLTs from the PB&Js. Where will the Italian hoagie land? Will avocado toast be left waiting to be picked?
MORE FROM RICK EASTON:

Rick Easton’s Pizza With Peppers [NYT Cooking]

Chef Rick Easton Is Chasing After His Dream Sausage [Grub Street]

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