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Podcast Episode Notes: This Is TASTE - Episode 263: Eric Adjepong
Episode Overview
- Hosts: Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard
- Guest: Chef Eric Adjepong
- Focus: Eric's journey on *Top Chef*, his new children's book *Sankofa*, and upcoming cookbook.
- Additional Segment: Preview of the fall cookbook season.
Key Discussions
Eric Adjepong's Background
- Top Chef Journey:
- Competed in Season 16 and Top Chef All-Stars, gaining acclaim for his cooking.
- First-generation Ghanaian-American, incorporating West African influences into his culinary style.
Culinary Inspirations
- Cultural Influences:
- Passionate about sharing West African cuisine and its impact on various food cultures, including Latin American and Caribbean.
- Discusses the importance of representation and celebrating diverse culinary backgrounds.
Children's Book
*Sankofa*
- Purpose of the Book:
- Aimed to inspire children from similar backgrounds and provide representation.
- Focuses on themes of resilience and belonging, with personal anecdotes reflecting Eric’s own childhood experiences.
- Illustration and Narrative:
- Collaborated with illustrator Lala Watkins to bring the story to life.
- Emphasizes the importance of food as a connector to culture and heritage.
Competitive Cooking Experience
- Top Chef Insights:
- Discusses the blend of anxiety and excitement during competitions.
- Highlights the challenges of cooking under pressure, with the aim to produce high-quality dishes.
- Culinary Training and Preparation:
- Reflects on the balance between practice and inherent skills.
- Shares strategies for overcoming competition-specific challenges.
Cookbook Insights
- Upcoming Cookbook:
- Discusses the integration of traditional West African dishes with modern American culinary practices.
- Aims to bridge the gap between different cultural approaches to food.
- Unique Recipes:
- Mentions recipes like peanut butter soup and roasted banana shrimp and grits, focusing on narrative and emotional connection through food.
Food as Education
- Using Food to Teach:
- Believes food can serve as an educational tool to discuss cultural stories and histories.
- Strives to provide context for ingredients and dishes, fostering appreciation and understanding.
Food Trends and Opinions
- Thoughts on Food TV:
- Expresses admiration for the evolution of food shows that showcase real stories and diverse culinary backgrounds.
- References Anthony Bourdain’s influence on making food culture more accessible.
Fun Rapid-Fire Segment
- Quick Personal Favorites:
- Go-to Bodega Snack: Chopped cheese
- Favorite Cookbook: *Vault* by Brian and Michael Votaggio
- Favorite Children’s Book: Anything by Eric Carle
- Most Underrated NYC Restaurant: His mom’s home cooking
- Most Underrated Kitchen Tool: Spoon
Fall Cookbook Preview
- Highlighted Cookbooks:
- *For the Culture* by Clancy Miller: Focuses on Black women and femmes in food.
- *More is More* by Molly Baz: A celebration of maximalism in cooking.
- *The Cookie That Changed My Life* by Nancy Silverton: A collection of sweet recipes.
- *Still We Rise* by Erica Council: A comprehensive guide to biscuits.
Conclusion The episode combines Eric Adjepong's culinary journey, insights into competitive cooking, and the importance of representation in food culture, while also looking ahead to exciting upcoming cookbooks in the fall season. The conversation highlights the connection between food, culture, and personal identity, emphasizing the role of food as an educational vehicle.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. It's the ice cream maker, the risotto is like the recipe of death, using pineapples. There's all these little things that, again, through time and competing and losses and wins and stuff like that, you just realize and know what not to do for the next time.
0:52This is Taste. I'm your host, Eliza Barbanel.
0:59it's a special day in the studio eric adrapong is here to talk about top chef getting in competition mode and something new his children's book sankofa eric is one of our favorite people in food tv and it's so fun to talk with him about using food as a platform for education from our screens to our bookshelves especially since he has a debut cookbook on the way too we hope you enjoy
1:32Eric Ajepong, this is Taste. Welcome to the podcast. Thank you so much, Eliza, for having me. I appreciate it. Thank you for being here in your, like, colorful outfit. You like it? It's not too bad, right? Yeah, I wish this was not a podcast so that people could see it, but they can trust me, maybe. I try to put a little personality in my wardrobe whenever I can, so yeah. And everything else that you do, I feel like. I appreciate that. Yeah. I mean, why not? We I think when I talk about like food and fashion and anything that's just expressive, why not put like your personality into it? Why not put like all of all of me into it?
2:04And I think that shows as much as at least I try. OK, speaking of personality, we have to talk about Top Chef. I'm curious, do you consider yourself a competitive person? And did you before you went on the show? Competition has always been interesting to me. I've always been fascinated by like even just like a relay race or whatever. I'm fascinated by like everyone having the same abilities, the same capabilities, but there's a difference in skill or there's a difference in how well you do. And I think that shows how much time you put into it, how passionate you are. And really, it was just kind of like a test for me doing Top Chef.
2:40So I got to that point in my career and I'm like, OK, I want to put my skills to the test against other people who think they are, you know, Top Chef quality or Top Chef level and see where I fare out. And yeah, so I think I've always been competitive. I've played sports. I ran track. But being a culinary competitive, I guess, a culinary competitor is something I've never experienced, but I absolutely love. I think it gives me like a battery in my back that pushes like creativity and pushes my limits and pushes pretty much everything that makes me a chef. For sure. What was your track event? Oh, wow.
3:15I did – I was a short distance, so I did relays, four by one. I mean, I did mostly field events. So I did a long jump, triple jump. That was like my jam right there. That's cool. I did like 300 meter hurdles. See, I could never. No, never. But the relay, like four by one, that's like for the absolute fastest. I needed like 300 meters to get up to speed. See, after 100 meters, my battery's dead. So it's so interesting how it's almost like a left brain, right brain kind of like response, your body's response to running. So I know some writers who really get that euphoric running high after like a mile or so.
3:53Me, give me like a half a mile and I'm good. Well, I actually quit track because I had such bad race anxiety. Like the entire day, I just felt terrible. Did you feel that way when you were on Top Chef? Oh, my gosh. I feel like we just hit a new level of this podcast and we just haven't even really started. Yeah, it's a sports podcast. But no, in addition to that, it's the anxiety, that angst of like, oh my gosh, like that knot in your stomach kind of feeling. I know exactly what you mean. I felt that during track. I felt that right before every competition in Top Chef and every other competition I've done after that.
4:27I don't think any of that dies, but it does, if you try to channel it, it does kind of give you like a little bit of like oomph. You know what I mean? Yeah, I feel that. Is it weird to be like cooking food and feeling kind of like your stomach is in that anxiety place? It's not natural. No. It's not a natural feeling. Because normally you're cooking, you're in the comfort of your home. You know where your like utensils are. You can pull your drawer. You know where everything is. There's like a familiarity there with competing on Top Chef or on television. It's like a makeshift kitchen. Even the people that put the kitchen together don't know where everything necessarily is at the right moment, at the right time.
5:03And then your mind is racing, trying to like beat the clock, trying to beat your opponent. There's so many factors when it comes to just competing on television. The cameras are right there, right in your face as well, which is not normal. So you almost have to kind of like take yourself out of the TV world and try to put yourself into like my, at least for me, I'll speak for myself. I'll try to put myself into like the deepest chef zone that I can. Like nobody's around me. I'm in a silent kitchen. And not even the cameras are bothering me and just try to put the best food out. And I did that as best as I could.
5:38Yeah. I think that seems like the way to do it. Going out of Top Chef, I mean, you've just did Beachside Brawl. You're kind of like you're doing the competitive things still. Do you train? Like do you prepare differently now that you kind of know what it's like? I don't know if you can necessarily train. You can always keep practicing. I think like you don't want to get atrophy for your skills. You know what I mean? Like chopping and braising and all the things that pretty much got you here. But I think there's a level of you just know it. It's like trying to plan for an SAT or something like that.
6:09There's a four years worth of education that you should have had that you can't cram in four weeks. So I think for me, it's really just watching other chefs and how they prepare and how they think about ingredients in maybe a different way that I have. There's like a million ways to dice an onion. And I've seen so many chefs dice onions more efficiently, faster, less efficiently, you know, slower than me. So it was really just kind of like, for me at least, just gathering all the information from all the chefs and all the things that I see. And you kind of know what works in competition and what doesn't and kind of stay away from those things and just cook good food.
6:46It's tough, though. It's not easy. Yeah. I feel like when I watch food TV, every time someone goes for the ice cream maker in competition, I'm like, don't do it. There's so many like it's the ice cream maker. The risotto is like the recipe of death. Using pineapples gives you like you're not going to score necessarily a higher, you know, higher grade with the judges. So there's all these little things that, again, through time and competing and losses and wins and stuff like that, you just realize and know what not to do for the next time. Risotto, I understand because it's too much active stirring.
7:17But what's the problem with pineapple? You know, whatever reason, it's just a flavor profile that some people love and some people don't. And it's just kind of one of those things that you don't want to necessarily roll the dice on, especially for like a competition where you could get eliminated. So I just like you just completely just leave it out. Just omit it. Yeah. So there's a couple of things like recipes like risotto. Like you said, it's time consuming. It's a laborious task to do and just stand and stir while I can be doing 100 other things in the kitchen. So it's kind of like the recipe of death, so to speak.
7:47Yeah, the pineapple thing is blowing my mind because I love pineapple. I love pineapple too. I mean, clearly fantastic taste. So is there a dish that if you could go back again, you would skip the pineapple or do something differently? Yeah. No, I wouldn't change anything, honestly. I think everything that's gotten me to this point right now has happened for a reason. I don't want to sound cliche about it, but like all the losses came at the right time. All the wins came at the right time. And I've learned from each and every experience. And I think each experience has been valuable to me. So I don't necessarily think I would change anything.
8:22I like the position I'm in right now. Yeah, I think you have to think that way also, right? If you're always going back on what you could have done, then you can't get forward. You're not going to move forward. Not at all. And that's just kind of like, I don't know, not defeatist, but we're living life ahead, not necessarily back. So even for me, just not, even when I'm not competing, I'll watch a show that I've done maybe like once just to kind of get like some self, like just self-analyze and kind of self-police and self-correct. And then I won't watch it again. Yeah. Have you learned anything about how you are as a person by watching yourself on TV?
8:56Oh, yeah. That's a good question. I speak, I think it's just coming from New York. I speak fast. Um, so I just kind of tell myself even, um, it's wild cause I can watch, uh, like months later, uh, remembering as I recorded it to tell myself to slow down. Right. And I can see myself kind of like the wheels spinning even on TV. I'm like, oh, that was the moment I just kind of talked to myself to like, chill, relax, slow down. Um, and I think that's helpful. Um, enunciation, taking my time, um, like all the things that I guess people hear in in broadcasting and journalism school. I didn't go to any of that.
9:34I didn't do any of that. This is my first job that I essentially had no experience with. You know, I've never hosted a show before. So I'm learning on the fly about all these kind of like enunciations and I guess oratation skills. But at the end of the day, I'm trying to just like do my best. Yeah. Yeah. It's interesting that, you know, I thought maybe you would be like, oh, I didn't no, I used X ingredients so much or like I'm doing this, but it makes sense to me that the thing you would know the least about yourself is like being on TV because you've been cooking for a long time, but not necessarily doing that quite as much.
10:12For sure. I think for other people who may not have known me before Top Chef or what I've done before, they'll see me as like the host. And it's new. This is their introduction to who I am. But for me, with my mindset coming in from I'm a chef doing a hosting position or a chef doing a host job, I'm very much critical about like, you know, how I present myself and how well I'm doing. On the other side, though, as a chef, like I guess all my quirks and the things that I like the habits that I get into and fall into also make my food very unique as well. So it's the like you mentioned, maybe using garlic or ginger a lot or whatever the case is.
10:50I do use garlic and ginger often, but I think it also helps my food be what it is. Yeah, I mean, I would put that in basically any dish I'm making. Exactly. So, yeah, it's cool to kind of see. It's almost like listening to yourself, you know, a recording of yourself, you know what I mean, on the radio, whatever the case is. So it's awkward, but it's also helpful when you want to like – it's always self-improvement. So I see myself cooking, I hear myself or watch myself hosting, and I know what not to do or what to do for the next time. Definitely. So watching yourself and just being this person that straddles the hosting and the food side, I'm curious what you think about food TV these days.
11:31What are you into? Like, what do you think should be doing differently? I love food television right now. I fell in love with food. I've always been in love with food television. I tell this corny joke often, but for me when I was younger, it was like watching the cartoons, Power Rangers, and then like the cooking shows. Yeah. So watching cooking shows has always been kind of like in my wheelhouse, my lexicon, so to speak. And the evolution of the cooking shows has been so fascinating to me. It's not necessarily the stand and stir, which is fine. You know what I mean? Which is great. You get a lot of information from that.
12:04But I love the fact that there's production companies and chefs and creatives who are essentially taking themselves out of the kitchen and going into the field, you know, and going to the mom and pops and going to the people who really are the fabric of small business. You know what I mean? Restauranteurs, chefs who don't have their name in the bright lights and things like that. I love those stories. I love, to me, that's like the backbone of what America is and the culture of America as well as definitely seen and heard and tasted through food. So I think watching that and seeing that progression in food culture has been really cool.
12:41So many different shows are exploring that. Taste of the Nation, my show that I'm doing right now, Cultural Eats. There's so many different places or people that are exploring. I think Anthony Bourdain helped tremendously with that as well, just kind of making the world a little bit more accessible and smaller when it comes to food. But then there's always competition. And I feel like people love to see competition and people want to see, like, who makes the best or, you know, you have the same ingredients. How do you decide to cook it versus how would someone else would? I think all of that has its own space and onus in the space of, like, culinary food and food TV.
13:18Definitely. I remember being a kid watching the Japanese Iron Chef with my dad. Exactly. When he takes the bite out of the bell pepper. Like that's not even anyone doing something with that ingredient. It's just eating an ingredient in a way that I'd never seen it before. Just raw, just straight up, unfiltered. Yeah, eating a bell pepper like an apple. That blew my mind. As a kid, I was like, oh, wow, you can really do anything you want with food. Not that I would want it. Actually, I would eat a bell pepper as an apple. You know what? Maybe as a dare. Actually, yeah, I would do. But you're absolutely right.
13:49Just to see how someone else approaches food that – everyday food that you saw. I mean, you've seen the bell pepper a million times until you saw someone actually take a bite into it. Chomp it. Chomp right into it. You're like, holy smokes. You can do that, right? Yeah. So that's pretty cool. Yeah. Yeah. I mean, talking about food being shown in different ways, we're here to talk about your new book, Sankofa, which is a children's book, which I think is, like, so cool. And I'd love to know, like, why you decided to do a children's book. I decided to write a children's book because when I was younger, I never read anything remotely close to what I'm writing right now.
14:26I think about like how further the inspiration would have went if I saw someone kind of speaking about like growing up in an inner city, growing up with skin that looks like mine, growing up with like first generation American. and all those kind of like dealings, you know what I mean? The microaggressions, the things that you hear, the things that you see your parents go through, the food that you bring that's so much different. That to me was, it made me feel different when I was younger. And I think if I ever saw someone embrace that and highlight that and celebrate that, then my mindset around food and my culture would have been different.
15:09Not to say that it was a bad or a poor kind of outlook or whatever the case is, but I just think I would have had a lot more pride. It's always nice to see representation, someone that looks like you, sounds like you, whatever the case is, doing something that you admire. So I really, really did this book for my younger self in hopes to inspire someone else who may look like me in kind of like, you know, that generational turn, you know, someone who looks like me at the age that I was when I really wanted something or needed something like that to read. Hopefully this kind of comes right on time for them.
15:42Definitely. And you're also a dad, right? I am. Yeah. So I have a four-year-old. She's going on 25 pretty soon. Yeah. That's the vibe. Yeah. That's the vibe for sure. But this is cool for her to experience. And she has a little cameo, so to speak, in the book as well. And it's just nice. Again, I can, watching her watch me and cook and be a chef and be on TV is pretty cool. Like she, it's weird. I think being her father, she thinks that this might be like normal to have like your dad on television, you know, but it's not necessarily. And I think having this book here and all these kind of like relics of like episodes and things that I've done for her when she actually becomes older and kind of realizes what's going on, hopefully it's a pretty cool thing for her.
16:28Definitely. And I imagine that, you know, you're reading bedtime stories, you're immersing yourself in the world of children's books. Did you ever think about wanting it to rhyme? Like, how did you decide, like, what kind of children's book you were going to do? Oh, wow. The rhyming part. I never thought about that. We probably should have asked. No, they don't have to rhyme. No, but I wanted something that was easily digestible. I wanted, I think with children's book, especially the illustration is so important. I had Lala Watkins do all of the illustration. And I think she captured the story so brilliantly with the colors and just like the personality in the story as well.
17:11Like the curls on my head, you know what I mean? On Kofi's head and the food that we were eating and just like the sights and sounds of New York City. I think she did such a beautiful job capturing all of that, but in a way that's easy to digest for children or anyone who wants to kind of read the book. And I'm so thankful for it. So I think illustration was probably the second, if not maybe the first and most important medium for this book. The words are very important, but showing through the pictures and through the art I think was really important and we knocked that out. Yeah, I love that.
17:47There's a moment that I really liked when the protagonist takes a bite of a ripe plantain and then the imagery around switches to this whole grove. And it's almost like, have you seen Ratatouille? I have, yeah. You know, and he starts eating the food and there's like the different motifs that come in. It's a really cool way to show about how food can be transportive, like not only in terms of connecting you to culture and heritage, but just the way that you can eat something that tastes sun ripened and kind of like feel connected to the earth in that way. Immediately. I'm so glad you mentioned that.
18:16That scene or that part of the book is so cool because of that. But like you read, it's really important to just to connect with what we're doing as far as the food is concerned. and really making sure that like how we talk about food and how we present the food is done with a lot of integrity. It's done with a lot of heart. I always say there's nothing new under the sun. So we're talking about, you know, eating plantains and kind of getting introduced to these ingredients that may be foreign. But there's to the other side of the world, these are everyday ingredients. These are things that people use all the time.
18:57And how do we straddle that like with sensitivity, but then also with the curiosity as well. You know what I mean? I want for the character to be open about, you know, their ignorance about the food and their kind of trepidation about the food, but, you know, also kind of be proud towards the end of the story. And I think we achieved that. Definitely, because it is a story about, you know, connecting or feeling disconnected from cultural food and heritage, but it's not the classic lunchbox story, right? Like, you don't have these scenes of the kid, the kid feeling authorized by their fellow kids.
19:31Like, you're not stressing that side of it. You're kind of just showing the way that you can connect with your family with the food, which I think is nice because there's already a lot of stories that are doing that other side. Like, you don't necessarily need to be teaching that a children's book. No, I don't think so. I think we we in the book, though, we kind of, I think, very sensitively and beautifully done, if I can say, talk a little bit about what that feels like to be somewhat outcasted in a group of your peers, your friends or whatever the case is. But I didn't want to harp on it so much.
20:02I think really the triumph of this story is leaving a place and kind of feeling down or insecure about yourself and then coming back to that place with a new kind of like vitality about who you are and where you come from. And I think we really achieved that. Yeah, I think it definitely comes across. And to me, it kind of connects to this larger practice that I've watched you do like online and on Top Chef and with dinners of using food as a vehicle for education. You did this dinner that was on Top Chef and then afterwards about telling the story of the Afghan slave trade through food. And this book, I think, is also an extension of using food to teach other things.
20:38And I mean, obviously you're a chef, so this is what you do. But I'm curious about why you think food is such a good vehicle or a platform for education. So for me, I think it's super important that when we have a topic of food, there's so many connections as well. Like it's not just the food that we're eating, but again, there's nothing new under the sun. There's been generations of people who've been cooking this meal. What's their story? How did this meal become so significant to our kind of like diets as well? And I think food is a perfect medium for that. So when we can capture all five of those senses and really have a unique way of telling a story, I think that's just – it's amazing.
21:19So I try to do that with the book. I try to do that with my dinners. I try to do that really in everything. There's almost like an education kind of – or a teacher hat that I kind of like put on and off when it comes to that. But it's also crazy because when I go to the other side of the world in Ghana, that education doesn't exist, so to speak. Everyone knows about this food. Everybody is familiar. So then I'm kind of talking about like why it's important to me or some of the influences like from America that you might be seeing in some of the dishes that I've been cooking over there. So there's always like a little bit of like an explanation and kind of talking about the food, but that's okay.
21:56I think as a chef, you should be equipped for that and talking about your food proudly, where it comes from, the ingredients, how it was cultivated, and really what you did to kind of make this cohesive meal delicious and good for the guest. Definitely. I totally agree with that. And I know that you're kind of working on a cookbook right now as well with Clarkson Potter. I don't know how much you can talk about that, but I'm curious if you're kind of thinking about that approach towards storytelling and food in the cookbook as well. Definitely. Absolutely. There's the two worlds that I kind of straddling between.
22:35It's the American or at least the Western kind of palette and idea of food and how we eat. And then there's very much like the African diaspora kind of way we eat and thoughts about food. And putting those two worlds together is important, but it is also very much me. Like being born here in the States, but then coming from a very like traditional, very close-knit West African family, this is what food looks like from my lens. So being able to talk about that in the book was very, very important to me. I think was like the really the through line between the entire or for the entire book is talking about my experiences, talking about my travel, but then exploring traditional dishes from West Africa, from Ghana.
23:24And then some of the things that have been inspiring to me here in America and what that looks like when I put both worlds together. That sounds great. Thank you. Is the cookbook also called Sankofa? Still working on the title. I think the spirit of Sankofa, which means it's not taboo to go back and fetch for something or make it right. The spirit of that is in both books for sure. I think fictionally it's told through a creative story, a creative lens, and one that could be easily digested by kids and people of all ages. And then the adult book, the adult cookbook I call it, does the same. But we're really trying to make sure that with the adult cookbook that we hit all of those notes of where I come from, what inspires me, my travels, and everything that's kind of brought me to this space right here today.
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24:21I like that. Are there any recipes or ideas in it that you're excited about right now? Yeah, for sure. I think there's one recipe for peanut butter soup. It's as traditional as I can like lay it out. And to me, that recipe is so like quintessential to my diet because it's probably the first thing I remember eating up, eating when I was young with fufu and, you know, not having teeth, but you can kind of like softly chew the, you know, the fufu and all that. As a kid and my mom not making the soup as spicy as she probably could have. I remember those feelings and that like nostalgia of eating the soup and that recipe is there.
25:00But then we also have like, oh man, recipes like a roasted banana shrimp and grits. You know what I mean? That's pretty gnarly when you think about it, but definitely is something that I think about in my kind of later career about putting those flavors together and how that kind of came to be. and why that dish is so important to me now. So two dishes, one traditional, one a lot more modern take, but both have an equal kind of like tug and pull at my heart, at least emotionally when I think about food. So really the book is kind of that dichotomy of having as many traditional West African Ghanaian recipes that I can, again, for like the Western world, would be absolutely new and exciting to kind of get your hands in.
25:50But for another world, I'd be like, oh, I know this is so cool to kind of see, you know, a dish that my mom or my dad made when I was younger in a cookbook. And then the other set where an American or Western palate can understand and be like, oh, this is really cool, seeing shrimp and grits or seeing like a burger, something that they're familiar with, with a really interesting kind of twist to it, an ingredient that they may not, you know, know of. And then for the other side, seeing that same ingredient or same dish rather, but highlighting, let's say I have a burger recipe with the Senegalese chicken yassa onion jam on it.
26:25Oh, my God. So like seeing a classic burger that you would see pretty much in any menu USA with a really cool, unique kind of spin to it. I think that is the spirit of the book and really what I wanted to kind of hit home. That burger sounds so good. Thank you. I like there's a San Diego place by where I live that has been temporarily closed for the past year. So I'm not sure if they're temporarily closed. And I walk by once a week maybe because I was like obsessed with eating their chicken yassa and everything. And I'm just dying for it to open. So maybe I need to make the burger whenever the book comes out because I don't think they're going to reopen.
26:59Oh, no. No, it's terrible. You know, the stories, especially COVID, I feel like has changed the landscape of like restaurants and restaurateurs. is the mom and pops have definitely taken a hit. So I hear these stories about like, you know, mom and pop spots or neighborhood like favorites that are no longer there or kind of struggling. And my heart goes out to those people for sure. Yeah, but I don't know, maybe they'll reopen one day. I'll be so happy. Hopefully. I want to ask you about something that I like didn't know as much about you before, which is that you have this like public health, nutritional background as well.
27:33And I'm curious if you were like manifesting, Like what would be a health food that you wish was like more popular and thought of in like the quinoa kale sort of way? And then what's a health food that you think is like maybe overrated? Good question. A health food that I think is underrated. How about that? Yeah. Let me start there. Beans. I would say beans. Legumes. It's probably the most – it is the most inexpensive like high-protein source that we have in the world. And I'd love to see more recipes or just more chefs kind of include that, especially for or just even households, period. I think when you're thinking about being more budget friendly or in health conscious as well, that's just an awesome option.
28:21One that may be overrated, though. Oh, my goodness. It's hard for me to say food is overrated. But I love leafy greens, Swiss chard, collards, kale. but kale can be sometimes like overdone I feel like you know what I mean like this kale everywhere so and I feel like there might be other greens that taste a little bit better than that but um that is just a perfect personal preference I don't want the kale association coming after me or whatever big kale coming yeah big kale's coming after me I think that's a pretty you're kind of you're saying I like leafy greens and there are more and there are more yes thank you for saving me um I mean I'm setting you up so I'll bail you out too I appreciate that yeah but there are more There are more options.
29:04So I'd say that. But it's hard for me. I think everything has its own spot, its own space, and everything can be delicious if you prepare right. Yeah. Well, I appreciate you getting into some lukewarm tastes with me because I just want to play a little like Fast and Furious game to close. Okay. Let's do it. You know, because on This Is Taste, we're asking people about their tastes. So I have like a taste check for you. Okay. Just like rapid fire questions. All right. You don't have to overthink it. Just like tell me what pops into your head. First thing. Okay. Okay. Are you ready? Let's do it.
29:35Okay. Go to Bodega Snack. Oh, chopped cheese. Yeah. Easy. Favorite cookbook? Jeez. My favorite cookbook is Vault by Brian and Michael Votaggio. Nice. Okay. Favorite children's book? Eric Hall. Anything Eric Hall. Yeah. Cool. Most underrated New York City restaurant? Ooh. It's not a restaurant. It's my mom's address. I don't want to shout it out, but it's my mom's home. Yeah. That's my favorite spot to eat food. What's her special on the menu? On her menu, she's got this like fried yam, fried fish, like snapper dish with a bunch of like pickled vegetables and shiitaw, which is like a spicy condiment sauce.
30:16OK, that sounds great. OK, most underrated piece of kitchen equipment? Underrated piece, a spoon. I think you can use a spoon for more than just eating. It's like the extension of your arm, really. So I love using spoons to either baste or move or whatever the case is. So a spoon, even though it's widely used, it can feel like it'd be underrated. Are you a fan of, I can't remember the name of it. There's like that one, the Coonspoon. Coonspoon, yeah. Coonspoons are great. Are those underrated or overrated? Oh, wow. Perfectly rated. I think they do exactly what you want them to do. Okay, good. I've been debating getting one.
30:50So this is a good chef. No, you should. Yeah, yeah. Okay. Favorite thing you ever made on Top Chef? Wow. I would say it's probably the fufu dish that I made for Leila Ali in Kentucky. That was special. Okay, last one. A dream TV show to appear on. Whoa. Could be scripted. It could be anything. It could be off air. My favorite show. Oh, wow. That's a good one. And I have so many dick pops in my mind. But I'm going to go with the old school Fresh Prince. if I can make like a cameo. You know what I mean? Like how all the artists used to do it and like the crowd would go wild. Yeah. If I could do that, that'd be fun.
31:34Well, maybe they'll reboot it after hearing this. That'd be funny. Yeah, that'd be great. That'd be great. Thank you so much for coming on. Thank you so much for having me. It was really fun.
31:51Hey, Matt. Hey, Eliza. What's going on? Not much. Just excited to talk about cookbooks. Absolutely. We're recording this on August 1st. And honestly, we're right in the heat of fall cookbook preview season. Yeah, I just have to say it is still summer. I've been seeing people on Instagram talking about how summer is almost over. I won't tell you because we don't need to shame them publicly. But it is still summer. But we in our heads are talking about fall. We're in our heads. In my closet, I have a piece of denim that I've been waiting to wear since early June. Put it back. Put it back. I know it's got to stay in there until October 1st.
32:26Yeah, but cookbooks are happy to talk about now. Yeah, absolutely. It's really the preview season is here and we're going to keep doing this. I think the first one we did a few weeks ago, people loved. We had a great response about kind of like these little capsule previews. But these are like super snap judgments. We are very, very, very early with these books. We haven't cooked from them. So that's kind of the caveat. But we have a bunch to go through. What's your first one? My first one is For the Culture by Clancy Miller. I have been loving Clancy's work as a writer for a long time. She started a magazine called For the Culture that was specifically shining a light on black women and femmes in food.
33:03And then she turned the first issue, or I guess the first issue was a jumping off point for this book that's coming out this fall. So it has a lot of interviews with people that I really admire in the food world. I just want to shout out a few so everyone can get as excited as I am. Sophia Rowe, Leah Penniman, who's a great farmer upstate, Ashton Berry, who's a mixologist and a Bev activist, Tony Tippy Martin. I'll stop there, but I think it's a great lineup. And as somebody that loves magazines and also books, I'm really interested to see how she kind of evolves the concept and the way that it's kind of put together.
33:38As a book, it sounds really special. So you're saying there's interviews. I'm sure there's some recipes in there as well. Yeah, there are recipes. And there's also kind of these portraits to matriarchs that paved the way for this generation of black women in food. So Edna Lewis, Leah Chase, et cetera, et cetera. That's really cool. I can't wait. And I know Clancy, we're going to have Clancy on the show at some point. Yeah, I would love to talk to her more about it. I love it. What's your first cookbook to shout out? Well, I got a copy of this really early and I've been kind of sitting on it. It's Molly Baz's new book.
34:10It's called More is More. Very Molly title. Very Molly title. Molly is just a real master at the turn of phrase and we love her for it. And really, I love this book in many ways. I think it is a well-timed book. Really, More is More is a tribute to maximalism in the kitchen. And I think it's something that we certainly have been talking a little bit about in our edit meetings. you know, it's a response to minimalism and maybe like the millennial aesthetic that like, like kind of that laid back millennial pink vibe that kind of has faded away into this new style of cooking. And what Molly has done with this book is really has said, you know, it's a simple rule to cook in a kitchen.
34:52It's really you need to embrace boldness. If something doesn't taste good, you need to embrace it and make it taste better. And you can't be afraid of things like burners, like burning shit is actually okay, which I totally agree. Last night I made some beans in my wok and I burned them and it was great. I think burning food is actually very cool. It's also more bacon, more salt, more cheese. It's just kind of maximalist approach. And the recipes really kind of align with it. It's not just an idea, a hollow idea. It's a full idea, fully baked idea. Yeah. You know, I worked with Molly at Bon Appetit.
35:26So I've been familiar with her recipes for a while. I feel like she's very big on the accessory in a recipe. Like there's always a seedy sprinkle or like an extra drizzle of something. And it really speaks to that maximalist ethos. Oh, she totally follows this. And she kind of says everything tastes better with the sauce, which is true. I mean, in many ways. I mean, she has these rules in the beginning of the book. And like at the end of it, she's like, well, you know, also minimalism is OK. Like a beautiful, ripe peach to eat is fine. Like she's not saying everything needs to be maximal. So yeah, the recipes in this book really align with her idea more is more.
36:03She's got a peach and pickled pepper panzanella. I just said that in one take. Yeah, say that five times fast. Really smart. She's a drunken cacio e pepe, which is like a version of that classic Roman dish, but with wine. And of course, as you referenced, seeds and spices is really her jam. adding texture and sizzling, kind of like the way tempered oils in Indian cooking is made. She does that with all sorts of different spices and it's really smart cooking. And anyone who hasn't ever gotten to know Molly as a recipe developer, really one of our best recipe developers. She's a professional chef and I just love her books.
36:39That sounds great. Cool, what's your next one? My next one is called, great title, The Cookie That Changed My Life. It's by Nancy Silverton, who is an iconic pastry chef. in American cooking, obviously. And I just think the recipes sound so good. Like very classic carrot cake with brown buttercream cheese frosting. She does these layered buttermilk biscuits that look really cool. Something called an iced raisin bar, which she says is a better Fig Newton, which I think a Fig Newton is already great. So a better Fig Newton, I'm really into. And I think that this is coming out later in the fall. It's kind of like a nice ease into the holiday baking situation.
37:20Absolutely. I love this book. We're talking about maybe doing a live event in New York. Stay tuned to this space. I love that you say that she's a famous pastry chef because I think many people think of Nancy Silverton as a restaurateur behind Mozza and like an LA icon, but really her roots are in pastry. Yeah, she was the pastry chef at Wolfgang Puck's Spago back in the day. So, I mean, obviously the pizza is iconic. I think maybe you could say she's more of a carbs person than just a pastry person, but I like that she's kind of returning to these pastry baking roots. On the back of the book, there's a quote from Joy Greenspan that says, Nancy Silverton baked a brioche so perfect it brought Julia Child to tears, which really is all you have to say.
38:00All I have to say, what a quote. Dang, dang. We could all only wish to have a quote like that on our books. And it happened, and it's on Food TV History. Yeah, it is on Food TV History. You're right. I know that. What's your next book? This book's actually out, and it's available, and I love it. It's called Still We Rise by Erica Council. And Erica is somebody I've met once, and I hope Erica can join us on the show. She's the owner of Bomb Biscuit Company in Atlanta, Georgia. And this book is a love letter to the biscuit. And it's not like a squishy love letter, like, you know, with, like, you know, calm and, like, just, like, stories about why the biscuits are great.
38:35It's actually like an incredibly smart and detailed recipe cookbook and kind of like a tour de force for all the different ways biscuits can be articulated in the home kitchen. I love the way that biscuits can be a book. Like we have these ideas that like these single topic books, you know, we want to do a book about potato chips or whatever. But, like, certainly this book proves that biscuits are worthy of 200 pages and 30 bucks, and you should buy this book simply because she's doing something called the Duke's Mayo Biscuit. The mayo is in the biscuit? A hundred percent. Wow. Sounds amazing, right?
39:12Yeah, enough said, honestly. Really? I mean, she has sour cream biscuits. She has Hawaiian sweet biscuits. And also in the back of the book, there's great recipes for jams, spreads, and pimento cheese, which everyone needs to have a recipe for. I really like this book a lot. I think it's great for, like, weekend project cooking. And really, there's no better cover out right now. I love the cover of this book. Yeah, I mean, I think A Beautiful Biscuit really invites you in in a way that few food items can. So I'm excited about it, too. What is your next book? My last one that I'll mention is less of a cooking book, but it does still kind of relate to food and it's a new fall title.
39:50It is the Cheap Old Houses book. Are you familiar with this Instagram account? I am. I've checked it out, but I know you're more of a fan than me and tell me about it. Yeah, I would say I have a whole like group of people that I just always do is send each other cheap old houses posts. This is a very popular Instagram account that a couple runs. Elizabeth is a historical preservationist, and I think she kind of was leading the charge originally. They share these beautiful, as the title suggests, cheap old houses all around the country. And then there's a lot of interesting stories about couples and individuals and people that have bought the houses and then restored them.
40:26And so this is a photo book that I think is just really beautiful. Victorian mansions, Italianite farmhouses, old churches that people live in. which my dream is to live in something that used to be something else. Oh, yeah. A church or a schoolhouse or a firehouse. I'm not that picky, honestly. And I just think it's really fun, and especially looking at the old kitchens, like a farmhouse sink really gets me going. Oh, yeah. So do you feel like you have the chops to do some renovation work? Definitely not. But I know other people who would be better at it than me, and I think that I would bring a lot of just can-do attitude to the process.
41:02A great roll up your sleeves, a little bit of elbow grease, but also you probably have a little, you have vision. Oh, yeah. I mean, I watched Princess Diaries as a child and watched Anne Hathaway slide down the fire pole into her kitchen. And I think that really set me down a path. I love it. Like irresponsible home design. I love it. So shouting this one out to anyone else that likes to look at old kitchens. Yeah, it's a cool book. I can't wait to check it out. Do you have another one to share? Two more and we'll wrap. The first is The Dish, The Lives and Labor Behind One Plate of Food by Andrew Friedman.
41:31Now, I've known Andrew for years, a really great podcast host and journalist. He's written several articles for Taste. And I've always been intrigued by his nonfiction. He's written several, like over 20 cookbooks with many in the world. But he's also written a few books about with like a reported nonfiction. And this is his latest. And the conceit is very simple but very hard to execute. And I really have read about half of it. And I'm going to have him on the show. And he really delivers on the promise. He takes a single dish from the restaurant Wherewithal in Chicago. And that's the restaurant run by Bev Kim and Johnny Clark, famous for the restaurant Parachute and two of our most innovative chefs in America.
42:08And he is tracing one dish at this restaurant wherewithal. And he is tracing it not just from the line to the guest, but he's going all the way back to the farmer. He's talking to vintners in West Michigan. He's really doing the work. One of the scenes is one of the most colorful and accurate descriptions of a slaughter, of a pig that I've ever read. And it's jarring, as it should be. And he really doesn't hold back on this documentary work. And the biggest thing is it's not dry. It actually – the narrative pushes forward. And really there's a bit of a kicker. If you don't want to know, don't Google wherewithal, but there's some there's some kickers at the end about what actually happened to this restaurant or happens to this restaurant.
42:55And I think Andrew is really on to a great story here. Yeah, that sounds like a great story. It feels like the kind of food story that a lot of people would maybe think about wanting to do or it's like a concept that I feel like is discussed but not often executed, especially in such a long form way. So I'm like from an inside baseball perspective. I'm excited to read that. Great. You brought that up from inside baseball as people sit in editorial. Yeah, these ideas come up a lot, like these single topic ideas. We just referred to a few of them. And really, they're hard to execute. You really have to stay focused and really work on deadline.
43:27I just really respect Andrew's journalism and podcasting. He's really such a fan of the restaurant industry and such an advocate. And I can't wait to have him in. We've already booked him on the show. He's going to be in to talk about this book. And I have one more book to mention. I just got a final copy of Portico, which is Leah Koenig's book about Jewish Roman cuisine. fantastic what a great book she really really really put it all on the table and really delivered that's exciting to me i feel like jewish italian cuisine is something that i've heard a bit about you know that like classic fried artichoke dish is actually named for jewish people but i think the canon beyond that is not as known to me so i'm excited to dig into that absolutely and i think leah is you know a longtime author and and has written many books about jewish cuisine but this This book has really stepped the game up a little bit.
44:18Man, I'm being really cliche with these sports analogies. But I feel like she's really gone on this journey with her photographer. And she's hanging out in the Jewish quarter in Rome. But she's also talking to a lot of scholars and cooks and doing the reportage work that I really value in cookbooks. And I think this is definitely one of my early favorite books of the year so far. I really, really like Portico. She really hit it out of the park on that one. Oh my God, you did it, Eliza. You landed that plane to use another cliche. Wow. Yeah, maybe we should get out of here while we still can. Let's just leave, yeah.
44:52Thanks a lot for talking about cookbooks. Anytime.
44:59This is Taste is hosted by Matt Rodbard and me, Eliza Abarbanel. The show is produced by Shalia Harris and Pat Stango and edited by Clayton Gumbert. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Visit Taste online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all cool things happening.
From the publisher
Chef Eric Adjepong was a finalist on season 16 of Bravo's Top Chef and a contestant on season 17 of Top Chef All-Stars, where he earned consistent acclaim from judges and popularity among viewers. As a first-generation Ghanaian-American born and raised in New York City, Eric sources the flavors and influences in his cooking from many of the West African dishes he grew up eating. He is passionate about introducing diners to West African cuisine and the impact its diaspora has had on South American, Latin American, Caribbean, and American food, all in his elegant, artfully plated style. On this episode we talk about Eric's new children's book, Sankofa: A Culinary Story of Resilience and Belonging. We also talk about is forthcoming cookbook, as well as what it was like to compete on Top Chef. What a great conversation.
Also on the show, Aliza and Matt continue to preview the exciting fall cookbook season, including early thoughts on new releases from Klancy Miller, Molly Baz, Nancy Silverton, Erika Council, Cheap Old Houses, Andrew Friedman, and Leah Koenig.
MORE FROM ERIC ADJEPONG:
ReachTV Orders ‘Cultural Eats’ Starring Chef Eric Adjepong, From Chris Paul’s Production Company [Variety]
Sankofa [Official]
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