284: Clare de Boer

22 Sep 2023 · 1 h 7 min

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Podcast Notes: This Is TASTE Episode 284 - Clare de Boer

Overview In this episode, hosts Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard interview Clare de Boer, the chef-owner of Stissing House, along with her other ventures, King and Jupiter. The discussion revolves around Clare's journey in the culinary world, her experiences at River Cafe in London, and her approach to cooking and restaurant management. The episode also features a segment with Brad Metzger, a restaurant recruiter, discussing the role of recruitment in the restaurant industry.

Key Guests

  • Clare de Boer: Chef-owner of Stissing House, King, and Jupiter.
  • Brad Metzger: Restaurant recruiter and creative force behind the LA Chef Conference.

Clare de Boer's Culinary Journey Early Life and Influences

  • Clare grew up in the UK, New Delhi, and Dubai, influencing her culinary perspective.
  • Experienced diverse cuisines including Grandma's cooking, Indian Thalis, and Middle Eastern dishes.

Professional Background

  • Worked at River Cafe in London, where she gained significant culinary training.
  • Discusses the importance of creating an experience around food and the joy of sharing it with diners.
  • Transitioned to the U.S. market, opening successful restaurants King and Jupiter in NYC, and Stissing House in Hudson Valley.

Restaurant Management

  • Discussed the balance of managing three restaurants while raising three children under five years old.
  • Describes the importance of a solid team at each restaurant, mentioning executive chefs at King and Jupiter, and the team at Stissing House.

Stissing House

  • Clare detailed the history and ambiance of Stissing House, a restaurant located in a historic building from 1782.
  • Emphasizes a low-ego, community-focused approach to cooking, celebrating local farms and simplicity in dishes.
  • Cooking primarily over an open fire presents unique challenges but also opportunities for creativity.

Current Culinary Trends

  • Clare discusses trends in NYC restaurants and highlights her favorite spots and dishes.
  • The conversation touched on her upcoming King cookbook and her writing endeavors through her Substack.

Brad Metzger's Role in the Restaurant Industry Background

  • Brad Metzger has been in the restaurant recruitment field for 20 years, focusing on management positions.
  • Emphasizes the importance of stability and longevity in candidates, especially for sous chefs.

Recruitment Challenges

  • Discusses the challenges of recruiting solid sous chefs in today's market due to burnout and high turnover rates.
  • Highlights salary growth for culinary positions post-pandemic.

LA Chef Conference

  • Brad provides an overview of the LA Chef Conference, focusing on bridging culinary students with industry professionals.
  • Details the event's structure, including panels and food festivals, and the emphasis on mentorship for students.

Key Takeaways

  • Culinary Passion: Clare's extensive background shapes her approach to food and hospitality, focusing on community and simplicity.
  • Recruitment Insights: Brad's experience highlights the evolving landscape of recruitment in hospitality, emphasizing the need for stability in staff.
  • Connecting Communities: Both guests stress the importance of community connections within the culinary world, whether through local sourcing or student mentorship.

Closing Remarks

  • The episode encapsulates the intersection of passion, hospitality, and community in the culinary world, making it a rich conversation for food enthusiasts and industry insiders alike.

Additional Resources

  • Clare de Boer's Substack: [Hello From My Island](https://www.substack.com/)
  • LA Chef Conference: [Official Website](http://lachefconference.com)

Feel free to listen to the full episode for a deeper dive into Clare’s culinary philosophy and Brad’s recruitment insights!

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Transcript

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0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. It was wonderful because nobody was watching us. We had no reputations to sully. We took a really long time to sort of come into our own. We knew what we wanted to do. You know, we didn't necessarily always execute that. But because no one was looking and no one really cared, we had time to sort of make mistakes in private, which was a real gift. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbart.

0:59Claire DeBoer is the chef owner of Stissing House, a restaurant that I hold very close to my heart located in New York's Hudson Valley. Man, it's one of my favorites. Claire is also the chef owner of two New York City restaurants, King and Jupiter. On this great episode, Claire and I talk about her time cooking at River Cafe in London and her journey to America to eventually open some of the country's best restaurants. We also talk about her writing career and how she makes it all work with three children under five years old. I so enjoyed catching up with Claire and hope you enjoy this conversation.

1:42Claire DeBoer, this is Tace. Hi. Hi, Matt. So nice to have you in. Yeah, likewise. I'm a big listener. You've hit me up on Instagram about that. I really appreciate you saying that. I know you said you'd caught a number of episodes, and now you're here in the studio doing our own. Yeah, Hannah Goldfield's my gateway. I listen to everything that she does, and that's how I was introduced to you. Bless Hannah for that one. I think Hannah is a real, and I can't wait to see what she's up to at The New Yorker. I know there's some changes happening there, and there's going to be some cool things happening.

2:13But okay, you blessed us with some apartment 4F croissants and bread. Thank you so much for waiting in line for us. Yeah, well worth it. Now, like, this conversation is going to be split into a couple parts because Stissinghouse, and I've been on record on the show, is one of my favorite restaurants in the past several years. It's up in the Hudson Valley. We'll talk about that. We'll talk about your career in New York at Jupiter and at King, where you are a co-owner and co-chef at both. But we'll also talk about your substack because you like to write. And, you know, you probably fill up your time with a few other things.

2:47I'm joking. uh mainly mainly like picking up after scooter crashes uh yeah and uh and everything that comes with having a three under four yeah three under four as well that's a little bit like like that's a little footnote but not really if you see a lot of young kids running around all right but i like to start by asking you know we've a lot of listeners coming into new york this fall what's good right now outside of your restaurants what do you what are you enjoying i i feel like i'm the most terrible person to ask i really haven't i'm a cave woman i haven't sort of left i've been up stayed all summer on maternity leave with a newborn.

3:20And we just got back to the city for back to school. These croissants from 4F are fantastic. The first place that we stop on our way back in is always New World Mall. There's a chonking noodle soup in the food court that sort of brings us back. And we're always hankering for really spicy food after sort of being holed up in Dutchess County. So that's the first stop. and then I love, we love going to Servos. We get to go out like maybe once every six weeks we go for dinner. That's the first. Just the two of you and your husband? Yeah, and the newborn. Oh yeah. But a two top. A two top. A two top.

3:57A really, we're restaurants favorite. We're a 5 p.m. really quick turn. Well tell me, how do you split your time between Stissinghouse and your other restaurants? Are you up at Stissinghouse for chunks and then you come back down? So our life is very much led by the kids. So they're in school. Last year we were Monday through Thursday in the city and then Friday through Sunday upstate. Now we're going to be here for the four week. But, you know, opening Jupiter, I was there very intensely. Opening Dissing House, I was there very intensely. You know, King is a very mature, well-run restaurant. And I really haven't been back on the line there or even sort of managing actively since I had Abe, my first, who's nearly four.

4:39Um, and, uh, so the, the, the exec chef there now is Angeles. Uh, we call her, we call her Tina. She's fantastic. We've worked with her for many years. Um, and, um, Jupiter, the exec chef there is Lucy Gibson. Um, and she was a senior sewer at King and we worked with her, uh, for several years as well. So there's really fantastic teams at both. Um, and likewise at Stissinghouse, it's taken quite a while to find, uh, find the people that can really, really make it work. But we've got an awesome couple that I mentioned, Roel and his wife, Jessie. CDC and pastry chef. Exactly. Exactly. And they've got a fantastic son who's been living in the restaurant all summer as well.

5:20Same age as my eldest. Oh, OK. So it's a family affair. Yeah. Four-year-old running around that beautiful place. We'll get to Stissing House and really talk about what you're doing up there because it is absolutely a special restaurant. Let's go back to your life growing up. What was food like growing up? Where were you growing up? My food was very, very good. I'm sure it was. I was in the UK in the countryside until I was four. And then I moved to New Delhi, India. I lived there for seven years and then moved to Dubai. Yeah. So lots of grandma's cooking in the early days. Lots of Thales, rotis, dal for the next decade.

5:57Yeah. And then on to some very good Middle Eastern food. My goodness. This is what a blend of upbringing. You know, your upbringing really showed you the world of food. Yeah, and I think the world of hospitality as well. I really can't think of sort of more welcoming cultures than sort of the South Asian and Middle Eastern as a way of welcoming. And, you know, you walk through any door and the first thing, they're like, what do you want to eat? Can I get you a cup of tea? So, yeah, a masterclass there. Yeah, and you find yourself at the River Cafe, and you're working the line there, and you're working through the stations.

6:32What's it like at River Cafe? What's your career like there? What's happening in your career? because you ultimately went on to run several restaurants in Schaaf, but was that like a really formative part of your life? Oh, totally. The place is singular. When I decided, I was thinking about cooking, and I went to work for Ottolenghi in London, and I did a little bit of time there and fell in love with sort of the intensity of working on the line. And I really wanted to work at the River Cafe, so I kept going there and saying, what does it take? And they were kind of like, get lost. but also you know you could go to cooking school as a starter and I said great tell me where they said Ballymaloo oh yeah so off I went um and I kind of you know I just I just kept showing up um and then they let me into the kitchen and after a while I was like do I work here yeah and they were like yes that's kind of how it was like you just like kind of like started picking up the knives in the kitchen yeah but it's an amazing place I mean they they sort of there's there's no compromises.

7:34The food is fantastic in terms of the produce and the variety of things you see as a cook because the menu changes every day. You really get a whole education from butchery to fish, veg. You learn everything. Pastry and pasta. When I was working there, they didn't have a pastry chef. So all of the line cooks cooked everything. That's amazing. What a cool thing to have like foisted upon you oh god amazing and i think um i think beyond the food it's a very special place um because it's a holistic dining experience yeah um that is not imitative of anything else it's got its dna um there's a tremendous amount of style uh and it's the kind of food that is special but you want to eat it every day which is exactly what i want to cook and um and eat very cool to say that i mean it's like sheep and niece in many ways yeah on america's West Coast.

8:29And what can you say about Ruth Rogers and learning from Ruth Rogers? I think the biggest thing, I mean, she's an icon. She's one of the many trail, you know, I think when we opened King, everyone was like, oh, wow, you know, this is so unique. But I never felt, I've never felt like a trailblazer in any sense, because we're, you know, 100 % riding on on the coattails you mentioned of Alice, of Ruthie, of Doreena Allen, of Bally Malou. There's no shortage of these absolutely incredible women that we've sort of had the privilege and the pleasure to cook alongside. Yeah, I mean, I'm sure you're being modest.

9:12I think each restaurant has its own individual identity. You know, the pedigree does matter, but it's not everything. And I'm sure that time at River Cafe made you really think about hospitality as much as cooking. Right. Because you're in the back of the house, but you also were understanding how the restaurant flows. Right. Yeah. You get to see everything there because of the open kitchen. Exactly. Are you really I think connecting the two all of my favorite restaurants connect the two and they're not really it's not really a separate front of house and back of house. I mean, as a cook, I remember the most my favorite part of being being on the cold line there.

9:45You got to you got to dress a salad and taste it three times in the process. and then you've got to put it up on the pass and then you could also watch the person whose salad you made take that first bite and that loop of pleasure of tasting it and knowing it's delicious and then watching someone's eyes sort of pop a little bit Is that what you look for? Is it eye contact? Yeah, I'm not looking to make eye contact with them I'm watching for the contact that they're making with their food and that kind of intense moment and the thing about having an open kitchen which we've replicated at King and at Stissinghouse and even Jupiter where it was really kind of, you know, a challenge to get that to happen.

10:26That's the joy of cooking for me is the joy of feeding people and sharing that. So I think the River Cafe was sort of the first time where I was in a professional kitchen, actually after Lenghi's as well, but getting to watch people enjoy the food. And that's really what it's all about. Just the simple pleasure of eating. And those eyes popping out of there. Yeah, hopefully, hopefully, not always. Sometimes it's like, who on earth made this? Send it back. I mean, the big salad at Stissinghouse, it's called the big salad. Yeah. And really, you've got a real thing for salads. I do. I'm a salad fiend.

11:01Well, you're a pro. I'm an absolute salad fiend. They're never big enough. I mean, there's a couple of places in the city that does do, you know, obviously King does an incredible salad, but I always order all of them, Romans and Fort Greene. Yeah, that's good one. They often have, they've got one that's always very large and they've got sort of a smaller one. and you have to get both. You have to get both. I haven't been to Romans in a minute. Yeah, I like a sort of a salad with a side of main course. Absolutely. And I think the big salad, you're like, it's definitely, you got to like, you know, cut the radicchio or the large greens in there.

11:35And I just like sometimes just eating with my hands. I'm eating a salad with your hands. Well, you're a pro, Matt. I'm trying. You've got to get the Jake's Gouda and the ham And then you've got to sort of form a radicchio sandwich with it. Let's go to 2016 to King. It's a collaboration with two partners, Andy Shee and Jess Shadbolt. And, you know, I've followed the journey through media. I've heard you on some podcasts talk about it. But it sounds like you really, really bootstrapped that thing to existence. Tell me about opening King. I'm trying to go back and actually remember it because I have this thing we've been asked so many times about those early days that I feel like I'm remembering what I've said about it rather than the reality.

12:15It's still reality. You framed the question differently. So, I mean, what do I remember? I remember my mom scooting around on her hands and knees using a cutting board on her knees, scrubbing the tiles in the kitchen before we opened. I remember our gas being turned on the same day. I remember not being able to get credit with any of the distributors. Because of your newness? Yeah, yeah, no track record, no sort of social security numbers. And I remember also not having the money in the bank to necessarily buy stuff. So we got a Goodwill credit line from the deli on the corner. Wow. Just to get some essentials?

13:03A little bit of sugar. It was really, yeah, but it was really, it was wonderful because nobody was watching us. We had no reputations to sully. Like it was, we were young and very free. And we took a really long time to sort of come into our own. We knew what we wanted to do, but we couldn't, you know, we didn't necessarily always execute that. But because no one was looking and no one really cared, we had time to sort of make mistakes in private, which was a real gift. And then I think, you know, it really took around six to nine months for people to start paying attention. And by that time, we had some, you know, excellent pork chops and we had a freezer that worked.

13:50Okay, the freezer. So your mom's in the kitchen scrubbing the floor because she's being a mom? Yeah, she was being a mom. It was a real project. It was a really family project. Annie's parents, Annie's mother was washing the windows. I've still got a photo of her standing on the dumpsters out the back with a squeegee doing her part. And Annie's dad built out our entire trash room. It was pretty gross. And he was like, this is not good enough for Annie. And I think he spent the entire Christmas three weeks doing us a favor because we didn't have the funding at that point. So he just like built the room where you keep the trash.

14:28He built it out. He built it out. It was a real, yeah, it was. Restaurants are gnarly. Restaurants are like 10x gnarly New York. It's just a really tough place. Wells would eventually shower praise on King. It would rise to fame. And it's still busy today. It's Fashion Week now. Is it pretty popping this week? Yeah, there's been a couple of Fashion Week events. And yeah, I think Pete Wells named it in a roundup that he did recently. And yeah, so it's hopping. So you're doing a cookbook. When's that out with King? That's a great question. Your guess is as good as mine. Sometime. So definitely I'd like to have your partners back to talk about that book when it's out.

15:08Yeah, we've got to. It's been great working on it. It's really cool to hear about King. And, you know, that was 2016. And since then you've opened Jupiter at Rock Center. But I do want this to be the Sissing House portion of the conversation. So let's go there. It's one of my favorite restaurants right now. and I've been five times in maybe 14, 16 months. I live like an hour and 10 minutes away. That is a bit of a commute. It is, but, you know, I say this not to, like, flex. Like, I like to drive to restaurants. It's more when I find a restaurant I like, I go there a lot. And you've done this.

15:40So I'm really just for my own selfish ways, but I think our listeners should make the trip up to Pine Plains. Tell us, how did you find this very unique space? I love that. That's one of the big charms of the space is the space. Yeah, I mean, it's an incredible, it's an incredible building. During COVID, I got a call from a friend of a friend who lives in Pine Plains and they said, listen, I'm buying the building. I'm looking for a chef. Will you come and take a look? And I had just, we had just signed the Rockefeller Center deal. I had found out I was pregnant with my second son the same day.

16:16So timing wasn't great. Timing was utterly horrific. Yeah. Utterly horrific. Utterly horrific. And I just, yeah, my husband was like, just go take the meeting, whatever. So we went together and I walked in and I honestly hadn't felt that way in so long. Totally moved. You know, the building's from 1782. Wow. And if those walls could talk. It's been a motorcycle bar. It's been, you know, the Marquis de Lafayette slept there. That's really amazing. It's been all sorts. It's got the oldest ballroom in America. if you have a fact checker you should run all this by no we'll have a fact checker but the upstairs is a private dining space in a ballroom yeah yeah yeah and we have amazing parties up there yeah um i i could i couldn't not do it um it was completely it was completely unreasonable and irrational and uh would turn out to be one of the you know like all the best things in life incredibly uh sort of challenging um things to get off the ground what was the state of the place when you got there you mentioned it was a biker bar I've heard from service there.

17:18Yeah, no, it had most recently been a wonderful French restaurant run by Michelle and Patricia, who now have a restaurant down the road. They had been in operation for, I think, a decade or more. And they had decided to close down during COVID and the building was purchased. So the restaurant was really in working order. It had sort of 20 layers of wallpaper and lots of rugs. And the kitchen was closed, was mostly closed off. And so we redid the goal really with with our sort of renovation of the restaurant was just to sort of restore it to our fantasy of of in of. Yeah. Of its glory days. You know, we stripped everything off, put fresh lime wash on the on the plaster walls.

18:01We did everything as much as we could in keeping with the time. You can't like fake the patina of the beams and the walls and you've got a great parlor with a hearth and you get some cool, comfy furniture in there. Yeah. Yeah. It does all the hard work for us. Yeah. The food. We'll get to the food. The food's OK as well. But let's when you're when you're in that space and you're thinking about opening a restaurant built around an open flame, open earth. How are you thinking about that? Because I think it's it should be stated more that this is really hard to do to run service, a busy restaurant, big restaurant with open fire.

18:36Yeah. There's no gas. There's no gas in the front kitchen. Wow. So everything on service is coming out of the wood oven or the wood-fired hearth. I thought you maybe had some sneaky gas lines. We have gas lines in the back. For baking and all that. We've got an electric oven. We had practically no working oven when we opened, but we were gradually, as we prove ourselves, buying a new piece of equipment sort of every few months. And we're almost there. It's always a work in progress. Yeah, it's hard. I mean, I didn't go into it with much wood-fired cooking experience. We cooked, you know, we had a wood oven at the River Cafe.

19:16And so I had sort of blissed the lemon tarts and that and roasted potatoes and chevilles. But it has been, I've learned so much from the cooks we've had who've got a lot more wood-fire experience than I do. You know, Roel, who is the CDC there at the moment, has spent decades and decades cooking over coals. so it's really fun to get to work with him my absolute favourite thing to do on the hearth is put oysters with just a large knob of butter directly on the coals and the shell sort of acts as a frying pan and they sizzle and steam in the butter and then you take them off with the tongs and blow it a little bit just so it's not going to scorch you and tip it back and that's perfection it's great And let's talk about cooking over coals.

20:10Like New York City is essentially banned from New York City. So you're finding talent. And my question is about you're up behind planes about an hour and 45 from the city. How are you staffing? It seems like that's a big challenge anywhere in America. But you're kind of like not in the most hotbed of people in the restaurant world. Oh, my gosh. Yeah. I mean, what I've learned, don't hire people that are looking to date. we've had uh or find them a partner quick um yeah no we uh we've had very bad luck with anybody that is um you know on on looking to looking to tinder in in pine plains um and very good luck with anyone that's sort of uh nesting yeah settled nesting happy to have nowhere to go other than their own backyard um so it it took a while to sort of form our form our what i hope is our sort of forever crew.

21:06But we've got a fantastic general manager, a fantastic director of feasts, and, you know, the chef and pastry chef that I mentioned. And they all, they all were, were, you know, lived in the city and had long careers sort of all over the world and came to the Hudson Valley post COVID to sort of for their next, for their next step. And we've been very lucky to. Do you move them up? Do you find them spots to live? I mean, would be challenging i would imagine um the uh they've all found they've all either had housing or or found their own um but yeah it's definitely not as affordable as it as it once was exactly it's hard i mean there's a real renting scarcity up in the area um but it's remarkable that you have such great service and it's it's kind of in the middle of nowhere though i love it i live up there myself let's talk about the hudson valley um owning a restaurant in the hudson valley um um what's it like for you to think about uh you know seasonality but also just like all the products around you you name farmers on your menu um what's it like cooking there it's such a it's it's such a privilege we we um we started living there part-time and had our house there sort of I think five or six years before I opened um Stissing House um and you know I think in the city people talk about sort of farm to table and um it it it almost feels like marketing speak i think those those words have lost a lot of value yeah and stissing house is surrounded by farms on all sides if you drive there from any direction you end up going passing you know um everywhere from sort of fat apple farm to uh sugar hill and you you just so those are the guys that we work with i think the the the the goal with the food at stissing house is is is to have very low ego low ambition and just really have a sense of place um reflect show show off all the work that everyone um in duchess county and beyond is doing um raising their animals and growing veg and then just cooking it simply over the wood fire uh it's nothing new it's nothing flashy it's just you know a good roast chicken and a beer yeah and a big salad of course and a big green salad I feel the the way you've just articulated that is is super honest and you know a lot of farm to table is is put on like a pedestal and kind of like use this marketing jargon but to cook it simply is not easy it's actually the opposite to cook simply over wood is like the hardest thing yeah because you're not just dealing with the food you're dealing with the fire you've got two ingredients and you're constantly trying to sort of make them work together.

23:45And, you know, at King we have gas and you become very, it's, you're controlling it. You're writing recipes to temperature. Yeah, you're controlling it. And, you know, I think what do line cooks do predominantly working on gas? It's all about like, you know, turning your flame up and down, deciding which pan you pull, whether one that's preheated or one that's cold, depending whether you're trying going to get a dish out in 12 or 10 minutes there's all these things that you're playing with um and you know what all the factors are and you're controlling them and then when you're cooking with when you're cooking with fire doing the exact same thing but instead of twiddling a knob you're doing 10 things to get that equivalent adjustment in temperature you're you know you're it's how dry your wood is how thick you've chopped it what variety of wood you're working with we work with almost exclusively with ash um we work with a lot of fallen trees that are of different variety yeah the borer is like yeah yeah totally so loads of ash trees are dying because of um the emerald ash borer um so we we work with a lot of ash but it's yeah so all those variable factors in the wood itself how long it's cured for how long it's been in our basement versus oh did we did we get a dump on our lawn and it did it get due overnight and then there's of course how long it's been burning for it's remarkable how many factors and then you have like you know all the other the shit hits the fan in the restaurants and it feels like you have to deal with all those other issues too not just um you know you have to you're not just like yeah the knob of an oven but as with all things the the more challenging the more rewarding as well so it's a really uh it's a very um it's a focusing it's a focusing thing to cook with fire is this a reason you keep the menu pretty static i feel like you don't rotate the menu in a way and that's actually i you know i think i well to be to be frank i think that's a matter of um staffing and training there's so many so many reasons there's a real there's a real sort of format to the menu um you know we've always got oysters um the ham that we uh brine cure and smoke uh glaze in the wood oven um we've always got jake's gouda and we've always got whatever seasonal pickles and then we've got a couple of salads um scallops cooked in their shells and um yeah so that there is a format and And more and more this season, I think, as we sort of established ourselves, we're a little over a year old.

26:05I think word has kind of spread amongst the farmers and the foragers. We get a lot more people showing up to our back door saying, I've got this. Do you want it? And we're going with that. But there are absolutely some things that don't change, couldn't change, will never go anywhere. I love that. Yeah. Let's talk about who is Jake, because I feel the good is always ordered. you're like serving hunks of cheese and obviously i'm going to eat that he's an incredible cheesemaker actually him and jake and his wife sylvia yeah she deserves sort of equal credit even though name is not on the cheese give her like your two call sylvia's gouda sylvia's gouda um so they're they're they're a couple of cheesemakers up in um deansborough and uh they're making they're making gouda in the truly in the dutch style um it's almost parmesan-y in terms of the sort of salt crystals but they use a cream it's raw milk and they uh they wash with cream um and rather than sealing it with wax which sort of allows the juice to breathe a lot more uh when it's aging um and it's remarkable it's absolutely remarkable like opening up a new uh you know we get these giant wheels and every time we open up a new one there's sort of uh an instant carnival in the space everyone starts getting in there you know the servers start you know circling and everyone everyone wants a taste and i think that there's something that's just so spoiling this is the kind of this is the kind of thing that you can get in restaurants that you can't get at home or that i want to get in restaurants that i can't get at home you know you can buy jake's guda almost anywhere and it comes in you know an inch thick slice vacuum packed and it's been cut and in that in that plastic for, you know, you just don't know how long.

27:47But when I go to a restaurant, I want to have cheese that is cut from the wheel. But please don't do anything to it. I want the simplest thing that is just slightly inaccessible to me at home, sort of unless I was serving 136 portions of Jake's Gouda a night. Yeah, those crystals are unique. You're not going to get the vacuum seal. and we can go on and on about the menu. I love it so much and I really want to ask you about moving forward the next few months into the next few years. You know, you talk about the large formats and you have a lot of private dining up there. What do you want to do with Stissing?

28:26Where do you want to take it? I mean, I have to confess that it's sort of a playground for me. I get that sense. You're so creative and it feels like you can do a lot of things up there. There's a lot of options. Yeah, I mean, the space is big. The kitchen's got fire. I mean, there's so many sort of ideas at play. I'm imminently excited for a couple of things. We've got this incredible, incredible pizza maker, Anthony Mangieri of Una, Pizza Napolitana. He is coming up and he is going to be, we're cooking together Pine Plains inspired pizza pies. I mean, it's just ridiculous. He's going to be making, you know, his number one pizza in the world, except with sort of Jake's Guder and ham.

29:07And so that's going to be fun to get to learn from him. When's that happening? I think it's the second or third Monday in October. And then I love craft and basket weaving and broom making. And so I've got together with Deborah Needleman and we're going to be throwing a craft feast on December 10th. And at the moment, we're just in the process of sort of inviting. It's basically we're throwing a fantasy shopping event with like tons of food and a celebration of craft. Yeah, that probably will be in the pages of tea, obviously. It seems like. I mean, I haven't got there yet. Yes, sure. But it's going to be, it's just, yeah, there's so much room and there's, we can, you know, last Easter I threw an egg hunt for kids.

29:54It all sort of starts quite selfishly with what would my, you know, what would I like? What would my kids like? And we had a massive Easter egg hunt and hundreds, you know, a hundred kids turned out and we threw a feast for children in the ballroom. And, I mean, it was wild sugar high. and then there's Pine Plains there's the Festival of Lights where all the children in the town show up and get given decorations and decorate the entire town and there are floats with lights on there's so much community and there's so many talented people, one of our diners is a fantastic flutist, flautist? flautist I think is the right one but I'll say flutist too and he's going to do a dinner upstairs where he just sort of walks around playing the flute.

30:41But it's kind of, yeah, there's just loads of room and space. Community-oriented. Yeah, and we've got such a strong team. We can really be playful. I love it. Do you make it out to the Hudson Valley for restaurants? No, no. I'm actually, I'm rarely in any restaurant after 5 p.m. You know, with the three kids, I cook at home. That's sort of the only place I cook is at home. and it's very important for me that I attempt to, you know, make the attempt at getting my children to sit at the dinner table. Well, let's segue to that because when you're at home, you're cooking for your kids and you're just cooking for yourself and you've launched a sub-stack, The Best Bit.

31:17It's cool. I like it a lot and it's remarkable that you find time to do it, but you're doing it and you've put out more than one, which so congrats. I think I'm on number four or five. I've probably got one I've got to do soon. Yeah, just you got to get, you know, you need. someone to like, you know, like an editorial calendar, like keep going, keep going. Yeah, it's not quite that professionalized. I write them with a baby in the carrier on my walks. It's something to, you know. So what's the plan with this? What do you want to do with a subset? I'll link to the show notes. Definitely subscribe to it.

31:51Check out Claire's work. Well, I started it this summer just to keep myself company. I think my days normally revolve around talking about food, tasting food. You know, I'm ordering my plants on my doorstep and I'm talking to my neighbor about, you know, what what she made for dinner last night and why it was good or, you know, it's just it's constant until the day, until the time I until the time I get to bed at night. And having a new baby and being in the country are two sort of extremely isolating things. So I just I started it. I started it this summer so that I could just share all the things that are on my brain.

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32:28Yeah, definitely download. Yeah, it's been really fun, and I've been so surprised by people's reaction to it. It's sort of an alarming moment when you realize that someone's actually going to cook a recipe you've written, and then the pressure is on, and then the next one you feel so much more, you just want to get it right for them. If anyone's taking the time to cook something. Well, we like your restaurants a lot. We don't all know you. Some have met you really in person and had a conversation, but we like your restaurants. So I think that's really a big part of why your subsect is growing, and it's really exciting to read.

33:00Like we just know, you know, you know. Well, it's a it's a whole different ballgame trying to trying to do it at home with groceries that have been, you know, delivered pairs. You didn't get to squeeze. Definitely. But I want to hear that. I want to hear about those those tips. So keep keep keep going. Like I know it's hard. I mean, this isn't like obviously for money. This is for like real. Yeah, it's yeah. It's it's it's also just a great chance to sort of improve, improve one's writing and stretch your legs. I don't want to get to the point where I don't want to be static. So it's fun to just keep keep trying.

33:35This is interesting. I've had a number of chefs reach out in the past few months specifically about this topic. And I actually am working with a great chef on A Piece for Taste to come out in a few weeks. But yeah, it's like chefs are thinking more than just what's on the plate, what's in the restaurant, right? Yeah. Yeah, I mean, these days everyone's sort of diving into all sorts, product and writing. There's so much going on. I think it's an exciting time. I think that there's just so many wonderful things to sort of having your own restaurants and getting to feel like you're hosting a dinner party for people that you don't know every night.

34:18but I think you know if you are the if you are the executive chef I think you know when I was when I was at King I was working on the line every day and it was you were touching the food and you were cooking the food and that's ultimately why I got into this business because I want to cook and I want to feed people and then as soon as you have two restaurants you're kind of really at neither you're here and you're there but you'll cook you can't cook it cook it cook at either of them um so i think it really makes for me like returning to the home um you know coincided with sort of having more restaurants having kids and that became the new center but but to keep to keep learning um i think is the goal um and you know you get to do that by having amazing people work in your restaurants and getting to look over their shoulder and see how they do things differently how they do things similar way having a conversation about it um and also for me now i've started this I've started the sub stack and you read the comments and you're like, you put that much salt in it.

35:13And it's like, hell yeah. What do you think it tastes good? Well, yeah, that was my initial reaction. Then I was like, wait, crap, three tablespoons. Man, something's gone wrong. Oh, so it was. It was a little bit of a fudge. It's been a topic of hot. Big tea, little tea kind of gets a little mixed up. For someone that doesn't ever write recipes down and never actually cooks from recipes. Yeah, three big teas can be tough. It's a work in progress. All right. Well, I really appreciate that you're actually writing and putting yourself out there. And I love it. On This Is Taste, we ask guests about the discerning taste.

35:42So Claire, to close this interview, here's a little rapid fire, fast and furious taste check. Are you ready? Yes. Let's go. The best morning pastry with coffee? Plain croissant. Just plain. No chocolate. Yeah. Love it. The best dessert period? After lunch, like a fruity, nutty, whole mealy, sort of squidgy fruitcake after it in a scoop of ice cream or a sundae. Love the specifics. Now, fruitcake, I think about as a holiday thing, but it's not. Not that kind of a fruitcake, like a cake with fruit in it, like a, you know, like a wholemeal peach cake, dorset apple cake, that type of thing. Love it.

36:15And you have the big coconut cake, too, as Sissinghouse every night. Yes. We get, there are riots if we take that off the menu or run out. It will not. It's great. It's big. It's bold. And it sits there in the dining room and sells itself. Yeah, it does. You have to make eye contact with her when you walk through the front. It's so smart. I love that. The best bread. Sparrow, bush. Grayling, the local baker who's making bread for Stissinghouse in a hearth. The best music to have in your restaurant or dining room, it could be a band or a genre. Well, I think this is so specific to the restaurant because the music really should sort of layer into the experience, draw you into it.

36:52I want to have sounds that are familiar to people to make them feel comfortable, but not lyrics they know, because I want them to be focusing on their conversation rather than sort of singing along. So, you know, at Stissinghouse, you're having a beer by the fire, throwing your peanut shells in, you're listening to the sound is Taj Mahal, the band. King, you know, we're a French and Italian restaurant, but we don't want it to be a theme park. So we sort of use more contemporary, but like really clean R &B and some jazz. So there's not too much noise. Yeah, very sightseeing. Clean R &B is amazing.

37:27That's a great way to put it. I think it's like, it's like a little more like tempo is like moderate. Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's up and down. Yeah, and it also needs to like, you need to get the groove on as the night progresses. yeah sometimes you need to use the music if the room is not full enough to like get the party started it's not it really depends time of day how much light um how many martinis in you know what's on draft like so many factors is there an absolute no-go for a certain music genre or band uh yes i think that there's so many you know i i loved there's certain songs that i used to love to play at King and now they're on playlists all over the city.

38:04And that sort of automatically is a strikeout. Yeah, I got it. All right. Favorite New York City restaurant classic edition? Oh, God. It's been so long since I've been out. Oh, Saravanabhavan in Murray Hill. It's a South Indian spot, actually, that I grew up with. They had it in India and in Dubai, and they do the most amazing veg thales. and it's been here forever. It's an absolute classic, really light, the most delicious. Dosas, Rasam, Dhal, go there. Love it. Favorite New York City restaurant, the new dog in town?

38:47I'm going to go with my local winner in the park. Daniel Eddy has expanded recently to Prospect Park and I go there every day. Yeah, it's part of your routine. Are you running? Are you walking? Are you joking? I'm pushing a stroller with three kids on it, sort of avoiding dogs because they're all traumatized. Darting into the path. Favorite fellow chef to hang out with? Jess, Angeles, Lucy, Audrey, all of my compatriots at King and Jupiter. Love that. Your favorite chef to learn from? At the moment, I'm just really looking forward to making pizzas with Anthony at Stissing House. Yeah, he's great.

39:27I really like his career a lot. He's so humble. He's a humble guy. He had a place in Jersey, a place in SF, a place in New York. Now he's going to be at Sissinghouse one night only. Yeah. And Monday in October. Yeah, I think it's the 23rd. Don't care. Won't quote you. Your favorite cookbook of all time? Nigella, How to Eat. Yeah, easy one. Have you met her? She's eaten at King a couple of times and I've been excited by that, but I've not spoken with her. Your favorite recent cookbook discovery? I'm a cookbook hoover, but I actually recently, I just, you know, Martha Entertaining. This is a very old cookbook.

40:05I recently picked it up at the Kent Library sale. And I was kind of unaware of Martha pre-Snoop. Yeah. This is all new to me. Oh, my goodness. There's like 48 books before Snoop. Yeah, how exciting. It's like the Goosebumps series, and I'm about to, I'm at the beginning of the thrill. She, I mean, I love it. I love it. This is the 80s maximalist. I don't necessarily cook from recipe books. I read them and I look at the pictures. And the photography is so transportative. You know, she's there with like a wedding carrot carrying. I don't know how carrying a wedding cake that's sort of taller than she is in the most spectacular sort of centerhole colonial farmhouse.

40:46And it's just it's just it's just yeah, it's gorgeous. I love Martha from that era just looking so striking. beautiful on the cover you know with that knowing smile yeah it's really i'm new to it so i'm uh you're new to it have you have you checked out like the 80s television shows and then no she's actually coming um to do an episode uh with uh with us at stissing house in a couple of weeks so this is all this started in the name of research yeah now it's just like totally yeah what are you gonna make what are you doing with her um she loves the she loves the oysters she's slightly mad for the pheasant and then she also I think had a queen of puddings that she wants us to cook together that's exciting wow having Martha in the house I can't wait to watch the episode it'll be really fun your favorite vegetable a father's in May yeah very specific I love it it's like a two week season here right it's like two weeks no I make it last a little bit longer you make it last a little bit longer I think I've had it up there okay Okay.

41:52Your favorite, quote unquote, British food? Jersey Royals, Fish and Chips, Victoria Sandwich, Dorset Apple Cake, Flapjacks, Tiffin. I mean, that's a very long list. It's a long list. Your favorite, quote unquote, Dutch food? Oh, God. Gouda. Yeah, I mean, it seems like that's a real mission statement, having Jake's Gouda on the menu. Yeah, an accidental one. Yeah, I love it. A couple more. Your favorite sandwich? The bit you rip off the baguette before you make your sandwich. Yeah, yeah. I love that part. And you put a little bit of butter on it? If it's soft enough and available. If it's available and soft enough.

42:43If this is right at the supermarket or the bakery, there's none of that around. I love that. Last one, your dream cookbook to write personally, not a king book or a stissing book, but you personally. I guess, I mean, this is so reflective of sort of where I'm at now, but I would want a companion for the seasonal and sensual eater who's cooking within the constraints of sort of normal life. Lots of chaos, no farmer's markets, and lots of mouths to feed. I can't wait. I think you're on your way through your sub stack. It's obviously a theme there. And you're on your way, and I can't wait to read that book.

43:28It's going to happen. I know it. Well, we'll see. We'll see. Claire DeBoer, thank you so much for joining This is Taste. Thank you very much for having me, Matt. It was a pleasure.

43:45Brad Metzger, welcome to This Is Taste. How are you? Fantastic. Thanks for having me. Absolutely, man. I feel like we've connected on Instagram and we've connected through Andrew Friedman. Tell me a little bit about, before we get into LA Chef Conference, a little bit about what you do, because it's really important in the industry. You're a connector, and you do it for a living. Yeah. First, let me just tell you, Matt, I've been listening to you for years. And I really value what you bring to the table in terms of your knowledge with restaurant operations, food, and the media universe of the food industry.

44:20So it's really nice to have someone who has those pieces to bring to these interviews. I really have enjoyed you for years. Well, buddy, that's really nice of you to say. And I appreciate it. I think, you know, having our listeners get a sense of the industry. and with that certain television show on FX, a lot more thinking about back of house and front of house. But also I just think it's so important as a fan of restaurants, you should know what's going on behind the scenes. Yeah, thank you. So tell me about what recruiting for the restaurant industry is like. You're one of the country's top recruiters.

44:54You focus around the country. You are. I know you through Andrew's work and your name comes up a lot. So I've had my company 20 years, Brad Metzger Restaurant Solutions Hospitality Recruitment. I have two incredible partners, Allie Barton and Jackie Leanza, who've been with me for many, many years. And yeah, we basically find talent. We work on management positions in the front and back of the house. So exec chefs, corporate chefs, general managers, directors of operations, sous chefs, any management level food and beverage. And we sort of specialize in like independent restaurants, high-end hotel groups.

45:29We don't work with a lot of big chain restaurants. It's just not our niche. Um, you know, we, we, um, yeah, we've been doing it 20 years and we, uh, I think we do a decent job. We try every day. What is the hardest job to recruit for in the restaurant industry? It's got to be a lot of different roles, but you know, what, what's the one that everyone kind of wants that you're always seeking? I mean, I would have to say right now, probably solid sous chefs. Define that first. Yeah. Oh, okay. I mean, a solid sous chef would be someone who has some longevity. they've been at their job for you know at least a year or two they have a history of you know ideally two to three year stints at jobs they are solid individuals they're stable they've worked at good places you know not necessarily you know doesn't have to be a michelin restaurant or anything like that like but restaurants that have do some volume you know yeah um little mom and pop restaurants are great for what they do but you know if they're not doing a lot of volume people don't have the experience that most of our clients are looking for um but really just longevity and stability when i when i say solid you know yeah yeah it's a tough industry i think a lot of folks like wash out or burn out and and can't hold on for a couple years but um but you look for that and and what's the salary looking like for a sous chef these days i mean three years ago it was 65.

46:59Now it's easily 80. Yeah. 85. The salaries have really gone up dramatically. I would say 20, 25%, you know, since the pandemic. So just to be clear, culinary school, no culinary school, but like two to three years of solid, you know, working in volume and you can maybe get in the eighties you're feeling. Oh yeah. Yeah. Markets. Yeah. You know what? Our clients are more looking for restaurant experience and longevity as opposed to culinary school. It's great. And it's a huge, it's a huge bonus. And it's, I feel it's important and super helpful, but in terms of in the job market, what employers are looking for, it's more about longevity in management roles or non-management roles that what's, you know, in terms of what they're looking for.

47:54How do you get into this work, Brad? I mean, it seems like you probably worked in the industry, I'd imagine, but how do you become a recruiter for restaurants? Great question. I never thought I would be doing this. I grew up in restaurants. I've been passionate and obsessed with restaurants since I was 10. I started doing catering. My parents had to drive me, my friend Sean Tratimi, me to work as a busboy at massive catering parties in Hollywood when I was about 14. Then when I was 16, I worked in the kitchen at the original Spago in Sunset for a summer. They taught me how to bake the bread. I was chopping tomatoes.

48:33I was driving the Spago van down to LAX to pick up fish or down to Chino Farms for vegetables. And that was what really changed for me. Um, the, the level of food, what they were doing, the passion, the employee meals, um, were spectacular. And I just completely fell in love with the industry and food from that experience. And I just continued to work in all levels of operations, management, a lot of serving positions, a lot of restaurant manager positions, um, worked hotels, Ellen Canto hotel. When I went to school in Santa Barbara, I worked at San Francisco Hilton in the management training program, worked at many, many restaurants in L.A.

49:21Actually came back to L.A. after school and worked at Granita, which was Wolfgang's restaurant in Malibu as a food runner at the time and just kept working and working in many different restaurants. And then 20 years ago this year, a very big restaurant PR person who was a good friend of the family. Her name is Joan Luther. She's no longer with us anymore. She said, Brad, I've been placing people in jobs for years and I don't know what I'm doing and I don't get paid for it. And you've worked with so many of these chefs that are now opening their own restaurants. You know, you went to school for sociology.

50:00You're so passionate. Why don't you do this? And that basically launched it right there. You got the co-sign from a colleague, someone who is well regarded. Let's go back. I want to hear about Wolf. Give us a good Wolf story. I feel Wolf is somebody who is obviously known for the Oscar party catering and is known for his California pizza kitchens or pizzas. But what the hell, what was he like working for him 25 years ago? um he was extremely active in everything you know and even back then like when i came back and i started working for granita he was bigger you know way bigger and well known than when i first worked for him in it when i was at spago you know four years earlier basically and he was a celebrity.

50:52However, the guy just worked his ass off. He worked so hard. And it came from not only a passion, you know, for the food, but for the whole experience, you know? And I think that's one thing that sets him apart. And one lesson I learned at Spago, and I learned it at the Grill on the Alley, which is a place in Beverly Hills I worked for seven years. Oh, you worked there for seven? That place is legendary. amazing i was like the power lunch place in la yeah totally and i was a server there for the power you know the the lunches there and it was great but still today though it's still pretty popular yeah it's it's it's hot um both of those restaurants instilled in me the importance of the guests yeah the restaurant and the chefs they are there not for themselves they are there for the guest wolfgang and at the grill they would if they had items in the kitchen they would make them for the guest.

51:50If the guest wanted to remove an item from a pizza, I'm on a restricted diet. Can you do this for me? If they had the ingredients, they would do it. Even at the grill on the alley, there were regulars at the bar that wanted tacos. So what they do, they grilled a New York strip. They chopped up some tomatoes and cilantro and onions. And they took the tortillas that were used for staff meal and they served them tacos. Why not? Those guys came back, three, four, five times a week and hung out the bar, right? Let's make people happy. I was at a restaurant. It'll go unnamed a few nights ago. Okay. My wife has this little thing about, she gets a little sick when she combines anything with onions and cheese, right?

52:35It's a little out there, but it's real. Okay. There was a pizza on the menu. I said, could you please remove the, the uh the onions they said no and he started the i was at the bar bartenders started going into this thing about you know the the chef sees each dish as a work of art i mean i almost like threw up what yeah you know it look i understand their minds absolutely people are losing their minds that's like crazy remove the onions from the pizza it's not a big deal right yeah yeah yeah And also it's like, come on, you're paying money for this dish. Right. So deliver on something. I mean, of course, some substitutions require a lot of work and would be a little bit hard to execute, and you're not saying all substitutions are accurate and really are more viable, but I've noticed this as well.

53:31It's almost like the servers are part of this wider art project, and like you're like questioning the artist statement by by by by requesting a substitution yes and like there's like the truly offended the taco example is is extreme and i would definitely not expect every restaurant to to do that okay however when it comes to removing an ingredient from a dish like that i think it's reasonable for a restaurant to say sure we can do that, you know? Yeah. Um, we're on the, on the topic of buzzy restaurants. I just have this absolute fascination with Craig's and I've asked Bill Addison about it and he's kind of like taken a pass on answering that question.

54:14And, but I follow, um, this great paparazzi photographer on Tik TOK and he goes live from Craig's about twice a week. And I actually watch it a lot cause he's quite enjoyable. Um, but I've always wanted to like get a take on like the food there. It seems like it's very marginal, but that's just my talking to people. What's your official take? I don't know. I haven't been there, but I heard they have very good vegan ice cream. I think I've heard something about a barbecue chicken pizza or something. Okay. You've never been there? Never been there. Is that because you just want to go to other places or is it that hard to get into?

54:49Probably a little bit of both. I don't know. It's just never been on my radar in terms of – I like to go to – I'm always going to support my clients. I'm always, you know, I like to go to like, you know, new sort of like, you know, sort of undiscovered or small, you know, restaurants and the Hollywood hype type restaurants I tend to stay away from. Yeah. What do you think about Mother Wolf? Mother Wolf is amazing. And yeah, his restaurant in Venice. I've been there twice, Felix, the last few months, and they are so dialed in. It's incredible. The hospitality, too. And you know what? It's hard to do what they do with all the sharing, okay, and the coursing and all the changing of the plate wear and all that.

55:38It can be tough and it can get awkward. They do it absolutely seamlessly. And they're dialed in, man. They are dialed in. Yeah, I had a great meal at Mother Wolf this past spring. And I just I think the service there was was the best part, to be honest. So give me a couple Brad Metzger racks for L.A. I think you're you're definitely dialed in. I love Casilla in Santa Monica. I love the sandwiches at the Beverly Hills Cheese Shop right now. Cool. They're amazing. Have you heard about these? I haven't. Really? OK. um anna jack is so good so yeah that's the one that i need to book and certainly the beard awards were really um a great moment for that restaurant yeah um i think those are oh you know what also young bond is is opening on friday yep and i was there a few nights ago for a preview and it's incredible i mean the food i was wondering yeah it's great yeah those folks are in my in my book career world and that's coming out next spring and we shot with them when they were kind of in transition.

56:41But, you know, those are some really serious chefs and, um, I can't wait to see how they're rebooted. What can you, what can you say about the opening? This will air after they reopen. So give us a little scoop. Well, it's, it's much more of a sit down sort of more traditional restaurant, whereas they have the counter and they had a little, a little super bodega. Yeah. Um, so it's, it's, it's nice. It's a little, it's a little dark and cozy and, and black booths and beautiful art, but also sleek and a little simple. And the food from what they did with past items, it seems a little bit more refined.

57:19I loved it before too. So I'm excited to go in for actual dinner and just see what they're doing. They're great. Yeah, it's cool that they're rebooting it midstream and trying to make that space work. I know the space was challenging. They had inherited it, and now they kind of get a little bit of a refresh. So Brad, do you consult outside of the staffing part? Do you consult in terms of like menu development and all that kind of stuff too? No, not generally. But I have so many friends that are longtime clients and restaurateurs. We're always talking or a restaurant – I don't know. I keep talking about pizza, but a great restaurant in my neighborhood changed the sausage pizza a little bit.

58:03And I had to call the owner and say, why are you doing this? So, yeah, I would say it's unsolicited menu consulting. That's funny. I mean, I'm sure that they appreciate it if it's done in the right way and obviously done privately and not like put on blast. Exactly. That's kind of like the worst thing you can do, right? To put any restaurant blast. These days, sure. You know? Yeah. It doesn't help anyone. It makes you look like an idiot if you're like putting a restaurant blast. And then, of course, it's bad for the restaurant. You know, take that moment, take that beat and, you know, maybe do a private DM before you start actually acting like an asshole.

58:38Let me ask you, Brad, what do outsiders get wrong about L.A.? I feel like when we write about L.A., we have assumptions, but what's consistently wrong? You know, consistently, I think that there's a lot of focus on like the health aspects. Whereas, you know, if you look at some of the restaurants that are the busiest, it's definitely, you know, the carb heavy restaurants like Evans restaurants we were talking about. A lot of the steakhouses are really, really busy. Baltaire in Brentwood is always busy and amazing. And Nancy Silverton's cheese baka. I would say that's probably the biggest thing.

59:19Good to know. All right. So I want to hear about the LA Chef Conference in October, late October. You've put it on for several years. I'll be there. I'm excited to attend and network and just catch up with a lot of friends in the industry. But what's going down at the LA Chef Conference? So, yeah, we've been doing it since 2018. It's LACHefConference.com for the whole program. there's a lot going on it's a one-day conference there's the education sort of you know panel discussions element there's a major food component it's basically a conference with two food festivals we have a la chef con food festival lunch with upwards of 25 chefs cooking for two hours um and then we have an after party with some amazing food we can get into that too um we have it's at the la trade tech culinary pathway culinary school which is in downtown and that's pretty much what i'm so excited about this year it's the first time we're doing it there and just so excited to basically bridge um build a bridge from the students and this incredible program there to the industry and the chefs in la because a lot of a lot of industry people chefs, restaurateurs, they don't even really know about this school.

1:00:41And it's just a gem. It's right south of downtown. They built a brand new culinary arts building that finished a couple years ago. And we're talking the most amazing teaching kitchens, gleaming stainless steel. They have five gorgeous kitchens with the state of the art equipment. I mean, I've been to different culinary schools, you know, around the country, this is, this facility is the best I've ever seen in person. And well, it's cool that you're linking the industry with students, because I think you, you, you hear about culinary schools offering like externships and all that. And that's always going to be good, but that actually hosts a conference on site and hopefully many of the students will be able to attend, uh, and, and see what they're, what you're up to.

1:01:29That would be, That would be cool. That's a good idea. Yeah. I mean, they're basically shutting down the building for the whole day. So we're going to be incorporating students throughout the entire program. They're going to be helping the chefs who are cooking. They're going to be able to check out some of the panels. It's a very, very cool situation. And we're very thankful that they're doing this. And I just hope that it makes the industry much more aware and actually get involved, because there's a lot of ways that the industry can get involved, not only with LA Trade Tech School, but even before that, there's a few incredible programs here.

1:02:03There's ProStart, which is part of the California Restaurant Association. This is high school. And there's CCAP, which is another high school program. So we're really incorporating the whole mentorship thing. And we even created a mentorship program where we're doing a contest with the LA Trade Tech students, providing a resume and answering some questions. And then we're going to interview them and we're going to choose five winners. And thanks to Lowry's, who's sponsoring this aspect, each five students, winning students are going to get$1 ,000 each. And then we're pairing them up with one year of mentorship by some incredible leaders that are in the industry here in LA.

1:02:46We have Susan Feniger, we have Keith Corbin, Della Gossett, the exec pastry chef at Spago, Ryan Wilson, the CEO of Lowry's, Ari Rosenson, who's the, um, Ari's the VP of food and beverage ops for Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining. So these five lucky students will get paired with these very generous mentors that are offering their time for one year of mentorship, one-on-one mentorship. So pretty cool. That's really cool. Let's talk about some of the speakers. You're going to bring in a lot of Southern California, um, media and, and, and industry. Who's going to be on stage talking? A lot of people. A few of the ones that I'm super excited about, I have to say I've been trying to get my friend Ruth Reichel here for years.

1:03:29And she is going to be in the area because she's at the Ojai Valley Food and Wine the weekend before. So she's coming. We are doing the Evolution of Food Journalism with Ruth Reichel, Bill Addison, and Leslie Souter. I think between all of them There's 10 James Beard awards That they have won And Bill Addison Who is the LA Times restaurant critic Is going to be in disguise Of course Gotta keep Bill under wraps I love this I can't wait to attend that It's going to be interesting To see what questions are asked Give us one more speaking panel That's going to be there Looking forward to awards and accolades The Journey and the Destination.

1:04:13Hilary Dixler-Canavan from Eater is moderating. And we have William Bradley from the only three-star Michelin restaurant, Addison, down in San Diego. And, you know, the only three-star in Southern California. Gilberto Siltina from Hobos, who just won the LA Times Restaurant of the Year Award. We have Rashida Holmes, who's won so many different accolades. And then Justin Picatrunzi from Anna Jack. who won James Beard West. Yeah, that's a real decorated crew. Holbox, my gosh. I love that place. My gosh, the place is amazing. I love it. I mean, Brad, so it's in October 30th, right? Yes. LACHeftConference.com.

1:04:58I'll link to the show notes. Definitely. Cop a ticket if you're in the area. Are they like, what are tickets going for? What's the price? How does that work? There are 200. So we do different tiers. The 180 tier sold out within an hour. And then we have 200 that goes on sale the 15th. Okay. Yep. And then it goes up to 220 for the next tier. Mark your calendars. I get to go to festivals once in a while, and this is one that I could not miss. So I can't wait to check it out and have a little recap on our show. Brad Metzger, thank you so much for joining This Is Taste. Thank you, my man. We'll see you in L.A.

1:05:36October 30th.

From the publisher

Clare de Boer is the chef-owner of Stissing House, a restaurant located in New York’s Hudson Valley and one we like very, very much. Clare is also the chef-owner of two New York City restaurants, King and Jupiter. On this episode, we speak with Clare about her time cooking at the River Cafe in London and her journey to America to open some of the country’s best restaurants. We also talk about her writing career, a forthcoming King cookbook, and some of the restaurants she is excited about right now.
Also on the show, Matt catches up with Brad Metzger, a Los Angeles–based restaurant recruiter and the creative force behind the LA Chef Conference, a gathering of chefs and food media members taking place October 30. We talk about the role of recruiting in the restaurant industry and hear about Brad’s journey to launch the conference. 
Do you enjoy This Is TASTE? Drop us a review on Apple, or star us on Spotify. We'd love to hear from you.    

MORE FROM CLARE DE BOER:

Hello From My Island [Substack]

A Manhattan Chef Heads Upstate. A Country Tavern Follows. [NYT]

LA Chefs Conference [official]

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