297: Luke Fortney & Ravinder Bhogal

20 Oct 2023 · 1 h 7 min

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In short

Podcast Summary: This Is TASTE - Episode 297: Luke Fortney & Ravinder Bhogal

Episode Overview In this episode of This Is TASTE, hosts Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard engage in lively conversations with two prominent figures in the culinary world: Luke Fortney, a reporter at Eater New York, and Ravinder Bhogal, a British cookbook author and chef known for her vegetarian cuisine. The discussions delve into the evolving food scene in New York City, the emergence of breakfast burritos, and the rich narratives behind Bhogal’s new cookbook, *Comfort and Joy*.

Key Highlights

Segment 1

Luke Fortney on New York's Dining Landscape

  • Background: Luke Fortney is a food reporter who monitors restaurant openings, trends, and closures in New York.
  • Breakfast Burritos: Fortney discusses a recent article he wrote about breakfast burritos, revealing the unexpected passion people have for them in NYC.
  • Cultural Context: He reflects on his experiences growing up in California and finding the quality of burritos lacking in New York.
  • Reactions: His ranking of the top breakfast burritos sparked debates and passionate responses from New Yorkers.

Lunch Strategies

  • Three Lunches: Fortney shares his unique approach to dining, often sampling multiple meals in a day, testing various restaurants.
  • Restaurant Discovery: He credits TikTok as a modern source for discovering new eateries, emphasizing the role of social media in the food landscape.

Segment 2

Restaurant Trends and Recommendations

  • Current Trends: Fortney highlights the recovery and adaptation of NYC restaurants post-pandemic, with a focus on diverse offerings like fusion cuisine.
  • Restaurant Recommendations: He praises *Lingo*, a Japanese-American restaurant in Greenpoint, for its innovative dishes, including a unique Japanese curry pot pie.

Segment 3

Ravinder Bhogal on Comfort and Joy

  • Introduction to Ravinder Bhogal: A renowned chef and author, she discusses her new cookbook, *Comfort and Joy*, which focuses on vegetarian dishes.
  • Inspiration: The book was born during the pandemic, aiming to provide comfort through food, especially for frontline workers.
  • Immigrant Cooking Philosophy: Bhogal emphasizes her identity as an immigrant and how it influences her cooking style, blending various cultural influences to create "inauthentic" yet deeply resonant dishes.

Notable Menu Items

  • Prawn Toast Scotch Egg: A signature dish symbolizing the fusion of cultures, combining British and Chinese culinary traditions.
  • Plant-Based Focus: Despite her restaurant’s typical fare, Bhogal's recent cookbook celebrates plant-based recipes, illustrating the versatility and vibrancy of vegetables.

Key Takeaways

  • Culinary Landscape: The podcast explores the dynamic and evolving dining scene in New York City, highlighting how cultural influences shape food narratives.
  • Cultural Heritage: Both guests share how their backgrounds and experiences inform their culinary practices, illustrating the connection between food, memory, and identity.
  • Food as Comfort: The discussions around Bhogal’s cookbook emphasize cooking's role in providing solace and joy, especially during challenging times.

Conclusion This episode serves as a rich exploration of food culture, blending personal anecdotes with broader culinary trends. From the return of breakfast burritos to the significance of immigrant cooking, Abarbanel and Rodbard invite listeners to appreciate food not just as sustenance but as a vital part of our cultural and emotional lives.

Additional Resources

  • Visit the TASTE website for more episodes and culinary insights: [tastecooking.com](https://tastecooking.com)
  • Check out articles by Luke Fortney on Eater New York for the latest dining trends.
  • Explore Ravinder Bhogal’s cookbook, *Comfort and Joy*, for innovative vegetarian recipes.

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Transcript

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0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. I honestly, after this list went up, I thought I was going to need like witness protection. I just, I had no idea that people cared so much about breakfast burritos, but all sorts of people, mostly transplants from other states, came out of the woodwork. Like no one was happy about this.

0:52This is Taste. I'm your host, Eliza Barbanel.

0:59Luke Fortney is a reporter at Eater New York, where he keeps an eagle eye on openings and closings, plus trends like the city's burgeoning breakfast burrito scene. We had him on the show to talk about what it's like staying on top of New York's ever-evolving dining landscape. Whether you live in the city or you're just thinking about taking a trip here, it's a must-listen. Also on the show, Matt catches up with British cookbook author, journalist, and chef Ravinger Bogle to speak about her great new book, Comfort and Joy. irresistible pleasures from a vegetarian kitchen

1:37Luke Fortney this is taste thank you for coming on the podcast hey Eliza thanks for having me it's so fun to get to interrogate you because you're somebody that you know I get to see around I'm always catching up but I don't really feel like I get to dig deep into your job and you have such a cool one oh my gosh thank you so much But I guess I have to know, like, what have you eaten today? Have you eaten in any restaurants today? Okay, so I have had three lunches today. I think for some people that sounds really exciting, and it is, but I think around, like, halfway through the first lunch, you know there's two more coming, and you're just like, there's no way I'm going to get through this.

2:19So wait, tell me, what's the strategy for stacking three lunches? Do you try to go from what you think is the lightest to the heaviest? Or is it geographical? So today I was like, how do I end up near Eliza? And so I started down in Union Square. Thankfully, everything today was pretty light. It was two Hainan chicken rices, like a poached chicken over rice kind of situation. So good. And that's so good. So good. And also like pretty light, like rice, you know, fills you up. But yeah, I feel like it's a clear broth. Like it feels kind of nourishing. It's not that greasy necessarily. Yeah, totally.

2:58And then after that, I kind of knocked myself out with a goat biryani that I offered you in the elevator. Which I'm going to eat when we're done. And that was great. That was over in Hell's Kitchen. But I feel like when I eat more than one meal back to back to back, I usually I'm like trying to maybe eat a third of the food and then we'll either like give it to a friend or like keep it for later and pile it in my fridge. But yeah, I feel like rarely do I eat the whole like three lunches. Yeah, I think it's good to pace yourself and to be keeping it for your future you. I guess I'm wondering, like, how often are you eating three lunches in a week?

3:43Do you kind of block your eating out or is it always happening? I feel like breakfast and lunch are the worst offenders because it's just a little bit easier. A lot of it is like grab and go situations. You can bounce around to a couple of spots. Maybe it's more casual. This happens more often than I like to admit. But dinner, I feel like, is the safe zone. Like very rarely do I have more than one dinner because you're like sitting down for the night, maybe. And it's kind of hard to like do that two times in a row with like reservations and all that anyways. Yeah, I also feel like maybe you will eat any meal alone.

4:23But I think for me, I'm more often to be doing like a solo breakfast or lunch. So it's easier to kind of bop around. Whereas if you're having all of your friends meet you for dinner, going to three might be tougher to wrangle. Yeah, for sure. I mean I feel like this is this is so weird and I feel like people who maybe don't write about food don't don't realize this but like I eat probably like at least half of my meals alone and I mean are we ever alone you know I feel like I'll talk to people in there and like try and get stuff for a story or just like make a friend but yeah like all the meals I had today was just sort of like me and like texting my mom in the corner of a restaurant.

5:04And what's your strategy when you're going and you're maybe doing something for a story? Do you take notes while you're eating? Do you take reference photos? Are you trying to be low key or does that not really matter anymore? Yeah, I feel like a lot of the restaurants that I go to, they probably don't have a publicist. They might not know what eater is. And I feel like that is an amazing thing. Like I like I think very rarely do I walk in somewhere and I'm like they're like, that's Luke Fortney, which is which is great. You know, I'm not like a food celebrity or anything. But aside from that, like it's just that the service can change so much as soon as someone knows what you do.

5:56and I'm trying to have an experience like if someone were to just like walk into a restaurant and you know like just trying to have that like sort of like normal restaurant dining experience. Definitely. So you were talking about these restaurants that you say don't necessarily have a publicist. So how are you finding them? Yeah. So this is kind of weird. I've never said this out loud but I feel like so many of the restaurants that I find these days I find on tiktok which is just so he admits it um i feel like it's a weird thing uh and there's a couple things going on one it's like every 22 year old nyu student has a phone and like you know like people are just like seeking out restaurants or like someone will like notice something new opens in their neighborhood and like hold up their phone to it and and then like me sitting on my couch and Crown Heights like two miles away will watch it and then be like oh that looks interesting but yeah so much of the restaurants that I that I learn about now happen outside of like you know quotes traditional food publications right so let's say you're scrolling and you see a video what are some indicators that you think you're gonna like that creator's taste especially if there's someone that's maybe not as like polished and well-known yeah it's it's like so funny because I feel like a lot of times it really is like someone I've never heard of.

7:25I have no idea who they are. Usually the way they're talking about the food too sort of insinuates they're not from New York. You know, they might say like, oh, this is like the only, or this is the best, like a lot of hyperboles that as a restaurant reporter, you sort of know aren't true, but you're still interested because you're like maybe for me usually it's like I'll see a dish and I'm like oh I haven't really like seen that around or maybe that's like hard to find outside of like Queens or the Bronx um and then it's like showing up in like a Manhattan food hall or something and you're like okay what's going on here but yeah it's really hard to know because like anyone can post a video now right and I feel like um when it's someone that's like a recipe developer like there's this guy chucky cruz that i follow who the algorithm gave me recently his music taste is so good there is like a de la soul instrumental on the one that i first started watching and immediately this is maybe me just putting too much like vested interest into music taste but i was like oh i know i'm gonna like this dish composition because i like your taste in something else but the way that people communicate information on tiktok with trending audio or other kind of like gimmicky things like taste sometimes it comes across and sometimes it matters and sometimes it doesn't because it's just somebody that happened to like live near a new restaurant that like they went to.

8:46Yeah, it's so true. That's really funny about the music. I haven't, I wasn't even thinking about that, but it, it is really true. Like my favorite food videos, like very rarely have audio. Like I'm totally into like hearing chewing sounds and like, like listening to someone slurp a miso soup you know um but yeah i i feel like i am also a sucker for like a good voiceover you know yeah don't need to see the person just like the cool thing about video right is like it's so i don't i feel like i'm like making a point like it's so raw but like cool bro the thing about video is no the thing about videos it's like it's just so like there's no hiding behind like a glossy expensive camera you know it's like the iphone that a lot of us have in our pockets yeah and does the food look good or does it not yeah yeah so a lot of your job is monitoring the openings and closings and pop-uppings that are happening in the city and follows a big time for dining i'm curious like where are you trying to go eat especially some of the newer spots that you think are worth kind of trying to get to sooner rather than later Yeah, this is a tricky question.

10:01I feel like we're in a kind of weird spot with restaurants right now. Yeah. I know this isn't why you asked, but like I feel like we're in a weird spot with the restaurants because in a lot of ways, I think that people are still coming back from the pandemic. Like so much was lost, like physical spaces and and money, of course, and so many things that like I feel like we're seeing like a lot of French food, a lot of like small plates, wine bars, like a lot of fish, a lot of olive oil. You know, it's like a lot of the same. And that's like a total oversimplification. But I feel like it's it's and also food has just gotten so expensive.

10:49One restaurant that I really that I really loved that I went to recently was Lingo and Greenpoint. This this place has been open for a couple of months now. Um, but it is like a Japanese American, like, you know, food restaurant, um, on that like little strip down by transmitter park. And it just serves like, you know, you walk in and you look at the menu and like the menu item name is like cabbage. And then like the dish comes out and it's just like, like everything just like has so many surprises. And I feel like that has been so done, but it's just it really just was like a delicious dining experience.

11:34What do you mean by surprises? I mean, like, OK, there's this dish that I had. It was a and this was a couple of weeks ago, but there's this dish that I had. It was like a meat pie, you know, like a like ceramic container and then like the pastry over the top. I never had one of these. He'd never had a pot pie before? Pot pie, thank you. I don't think I'd had a pot pie in a New York restaurant before. I was going to say, aren't you from the Midwest, right? Okay. California. California. But by way of the Midwest. It's true. It's true. We do have those out there. But I don't think it's ever something that I'd seen on a restaurant menu and be like, I really am like fiending for a pot pie right now.

12:17Oh, I love pot pie. Okay. Okay, you had this experience. You got to get to lingo then. Clearly. Okay, so you ordered this pot pie. They have this pot pie and then you crack the surface of the pastry and it's full of curry. And it's just this like. It's a Japanese curry pot pie. Yeah. I literally. Oh, my God. I'm so excited. We're going right after this. No, literally two nights ago, I was making Japanese golden instant curry with vegetables. And I put in like some Korean rice cakes because that's what I had. But I had just eaten a pot pie and I wrote down in my notes app, Japanese curry pot pie question mark.

12:55So clearly it's being done and done well, which makes me excited to go eat it. Wow. OK, I love that. Sorry, that was a tangent. I'm so excited about that. Anyways, yeah, it's just you crack open the crust and there's like a big sea of golden curry. It's amazing. But you like look at the menu and it's like pot pie and you're like it might it might say curry pot pie. you know we might need to fact check this but um yeah it's just one of those restaurants that like sort of restored my hope in I I don't know if we can use this word but like like fuse fusion cuisines it's it's kind of like the like blank like it's like kind of like these comforting like midwestern foods plus and like other foods plus like japanese flavors and ingredients experience um yeah it was just a really wonderful experience and I haven't seen a ton ton written about them um so I would recommend checking them out okay so Luke when you're going out to eat what are you looking for what do you think is going to make a good story that's a great question it's so funny this is something that I it's almost like a sixth sense you know where you just are walking down the street or again scrolling through TikTok and you just like see something that you're like, what is this doing here?

14:21A lot of times I look for maybe like a dish or a cuisine that is maybe underrepresented or hasn't been for whatever reason, like even if it's been around like hasn't been as popular like people haven't been into it um or not people haven't been into it but like maybe it hasn't had this like full moment and then suddenly it's like all anyone can talk about like the breakfast burrito roundup that you wrote recently yeah like it just like hits a like a fever pitch and you're like oh like this is something that like gets people excited and in the case of that breakfast burrito article angry yeah you know Let's talk about breakfast burritos because you grew up eating them in some ways, I would imagine.

15:06Yeah. What's your like background with breakfast burritos and how did you bring that into doing that story? Okay. So when I moved to New York City from California five years ago, one of the first things I noticed when I moved here five years ago is just that the burrito scene feels way behind. like a lot of people were using tortillas that maybe they bought at the store or maybe that they got from their food distributor but out in california a lot of the tortillas that we got were you know maybe made in the kitchen or like if they're bought at the store like the quality is a lot higher just because of the proximity to the border and so i moved here and i was like why is it so hard to find a good burrito um and this is just something that like you know when you grow up in any other place like I feel like everyone has this story right like what is the thing you love that you can't find in New York City the city that like supposedly has it all yeah or that's harder to find or harder to find and like for me that was burritos and um and breakfast burritos more specifically right and where did you grow up in California okay I grew up in Orange County, California.

16:29I was like, why the big inhale? It's okay. No, I mean, people are from Orange. I can't say I'm from LA. So, you know, we have our differences, but I don't personally have any grudge with Orange County. And I imagine you grew up eating good burritos there, right? Yeah. I feel like it was being so close to San Diego, which is such a burrito city. And you're from a Mexican-American family also, right? Yeah, on my dad's side. Yeah. So what was the burrito you were looking for when you moved to New York? And what is the burrito that you now hold dear five years in that we've hit this kind of burrito, burgeoning burrito scene?

17:05Yeah. So for me, the burrito that I would eat the most was from this place. They had a few locations, at least when I was growing up, called Pedro's Tacos. It was like, I'm not even sure that I could say in good faith that it was good. but it was just there and it was on the way to the beach and we would go and pick up a couple of burritos they had like the greasiest hash browns that would like leak through the tortilla every time and um they'd come in these like little aluminum foil wrappers and you could eat like three of them because they were a little smaller um it was great and you just like go and sit on the beach and like eat them and eat like sand and you know stuff that would get in them it's like one of those just experiences that, that is so hard to replicate somewhere else.

17:53Um, here for me, I feel like I, I still haven't found like that same thing where the stars align with like low cost, like small and also like, just kind of, kind of like feels like fast food with love almost, You know, I haven't really been able to find something like that here. And, you know, maybe maybe it's just like I'm nostalgic for that specific experience. But yeah, I think nostalgia is the one factor that you can never get in a new place. But who did you give the number one ranking to? And then why was it controversial? Oh, OK. So I gave the number one ranking to Super Burrito, which is a restaurant in Rockaway Beach.

18:42and now they have another location in Williamsburg. Honestly, after this list went up, I thought I was going to need like witness protection support. Like after this went up, I just I had no idea that people cared so much about breakfast burritos, but all sorts of people, mostly transplants from other states came out of the woodwork. and um like no one was happy about this uh I think because everyone has their own favorite that they've sort of put their weight behind yeah like were the people unanimous in saying oh this one place should get the spot or everyone was just hyping up their their favorite spot there was a couple of big names there was Ursula in Bed-Stuy which was on the list right it was it was on the list there was ceremonia bake shop which is like two blocks from super burrito that was a really really popular one but but yeah it wasn't like this unified front it was like what you're saying like yeah like this is my one and honestly if i were to guess i think that people had probably only tried that one and not tried not had three lunches in a day not had three lunches in a day, which is totally okay.

20:00No one needs to do that. Yeah. So for the burrito story, did you eat all the burritos back to back or did you try to space them out? I did a couple of them back to back or sometimes even like side by side if they were in like a block of one another. It gets a little tricky because you're like the one you're transporting is like in my, you know, tote bag for like five minutes and, you know, but hopefully a burrito should be able to withstand that. I want to ask you about another story you wrote recently that I really liked, which was about all of the weed bodegas around the city that sell imported snacks as a main part of their business.

20:36Because anyone walking around Brooklyn would see these, and I've been wondering about them for so long. So I'm curious about how you came up with that story idea and what the reporting process was like for you. Yeah. This one was a really tough story to report. One, no one wants to talk to you for something like this. Yeah. Because they're not legitimate businesses, legally speaking. Yeah, legally speaking. And I'm sure anyone that I approach is going to be like, I don't want to talk to you. Like even really anonymously, just they're so worried that like about anything that would draw attention to them in like a big sort of citywide sense.

21:22The idea for this story started while walking around in Williamsburg where there's a couple of these stores along Bedford Avenue there. And they have all sorts of different names like, you know, something exotics, like something Zaza, like just all every different name for weed you can imagine. Loud noise. Is on a storefront there. Yeah. Yeah. And then tell me about like for someone that doesn't know what we're talking about, like what kind of snacks would you see in the window at these places? Yeah. So I I don't smoke weed. I'll say that on the record right now, but I would be walking by these stores and like in the window you see bags of chips and flavors of Oreo and Pocky and different snacks whose flavors are written in other languages.

22:15and you're like, huh, that's kind of funny. Like that reporter thing goes off in your brain where you're like, weed plus roast fish flavored lays? Like what's going on here? And so I would go in and I'd ask them and just like not as a reporter, just like as kind of like a person walking through the street and I'd be like, why do you sell like, yeah, like roast fish flavored lays? And like the range of answers was just so, so wide. But ultimately, people were like, I need something to sell that isn't marijuana. Yeah. And it's signifying that you're not one of the like, quote unquote, normal bodegas that sell, you know, like Lay's barbecue chips and like the ones you would come to expect.

23:01It's kind of like flagging almost with snacks. Yeah, because it was so funny. In writing out this story, one thing that was unexpected to me is that, like, while I'd be in there looking around or talking to people, there were so many customers who came in just for snacks. And you'd see, like, a mom and their maybe 20-something-year-old kid come in and, like, pick out some banana-flavored chips. and I'm sure they realized what was happening around them, but like they were just there for like snacks. Right. Do you have a sense of like, was the cost per snack much higher at one of those places compared to if you were at like an Asian grocery store and they were selling Pocky, for example?

23:44Yeah, I, that's a great question. I'm trying to think about that because when I would go in there and buy snacks, like I usually would leave having spent like$15 on like two or three bags of chips, which seems a little high to me feels kind of high um and when i would talk to people they're like about why a bag of chips costs six seven dollars you know they they had the whole story of well i am my friend sent this to me from japan and then there's all the costs associated with that so they're not using like the big scale distributors um that like a large grocery store I'd be using to get the same snacks.

24:26Yeah. There's kind of this like black market of imported snacks happening. Yeah. Why does that sound so familiar to this situation? I know. Right. It's like, OK, wait, if why sell one thing that we're not allowed to do when we could have two? Yeah. Or just, you know, maybe the method of it getting there is a little under the books. Yeah. Well, I think that's so fun. And I think it says a lot about like the variety of things that you can write about in the context of food in New York to have a story like that. Yeah, it definitely was. I've been sitting on that story, honestly, for about a year.

25:03And I was finally spurred to action just by everything that's happening right now around like the enforcement around the illegal weed stores. I just feel like we're we've really hit a point where like I, you know, pull up the New York Times and like every other day, I feel like there's a story about, you know, like enforcement and city officials are like, we don't know what to do because they're like really in every neighborhood now. Yeah, it's it's very interesting because I grew up in Los Angeles where, you know, weed was legalized. I mean, very widely medically and then recreationally. And it's a very different infrastructure.

25:40And I think that in New York, it's kind of like, well, who knows where this came from? Like when I go buy weed on the West Coast, they're like telling me about the terpenes and where something was grown and things that I don't even have the knowledge for because I haven't lived there in so long. And then you go here and like they don't even know what farm it's from. Like they don't know what is happening. Dude, I know. It's like they know exactly where their chips came from. They're like, oh, this came from like Bangkok. But they like can't say where their weed came from. Oh, and one thing you're like smoking and inhaling and the other one you're eating.

26:14so i i guess i'm curious like talking about restaurants and pop-ups and how everything exists in the city like is there a trend that you'd like to see more of and is there maybe another trend that you're kind of over yeah i think i am just about done with small plates meant for sharing and that is capital s p m t s do i got that right yes capital small plates meant for sharing yeah sphams um because why you don't want to share anymore i'm i'm done sharing no but i i mean well i am an only child oh so you know sharing was never really a skill that i learned. But actually, like, when you get a, like, palm-sized dish and there's, like, three pieces of hamachi crudo on there and they're like, oh, yeah, this is for your table of eight, you're kind of like, you know, you're suddenly, like, dissecting a small piece of raw fish at the table.

27:16But I I really would love to see more large plates meant for eating alone. Like, like, I think you you probably know from California. Like, I feel like you would go into a Mexican restaurant and get this like big platter that had everything you needed. Yeah. But like weighs down the whole table. Dice and beans. For sure. There's like a free side of chips that comes to you have your like protein and like everything is there. Combo platter. Combo platter. More combo platters. More combo platters. Like, or whatever. Like, I feel like every culture has some version of this. Like, last night I was at a Japanese restaurant.

28:01I was at a Japanese restaurant in Greenpoint. A different one? A different one. Okay. No pot pie with curry here. It was in the back of Dashi Okume, which is like a dashi shop. Oh, the build your own dashi shop. Yeah. And behind that, they have this grilled fish counter where you can go and just order like a grilled fish and it comes out with soup and rice and these small side dishes. But it's like this would be impossible to share. And there's no pretense that you have to. Yeah. It's like really just like it's like you eating there. And like I wasn't surprised, but like there were so many people there eating alone.

28:43It was really kind of heartening to see in a way. But anyways, yeah, I think I like this idea of like, you know, everything is just like there for you and all you have to do is eat and doesn't like require that much thinking. You just kind of sit there and enjoy your meal, which I feel like has just become so rare recently. Yeah, that's a really nice sentiment. I'm going to hold that. I feel like for me going out to eat has become kind of like fraught sometimes since I've been cooking more at home. But I like the idea of just going to have a – I don't have to worry about anyone else or getting a table.

29:22You can just be by yourself. Yeah. Yeah. You can be by yourself. With your food. With your food. It's like – it's so – I mean it's – one of my coworkers in Boston, Erica Adams, she wrote something really poignant about this. But she's like, you know, the act of going out to eat is such a like always involves compromise, you know, like with the people you're dining with. And it's like, where are we going to eat? What are we going to order? Like what time is good for you? What time works? Yeah. And eating alone is like just like all about you. It's just like so indulgent. Yeah. That's fun to have.

29:58So you eat at so many different kinds of places. I'm curious if you could have a menu item named after you at any kind of place. So like an ice cream shop, a bar, a sandwich place, what would it be? And then do you know what would be inside of it? Yeah, it would be a hamachi crudo with three pieces for eight people. And just a huge chunk of burrata on top. Some olive oil. Yeah, some olive oil would be great. I think it would be a mezcal martini. Did that go through? Yeah, mezcal martini. A mezcal martini or a tequila martini. This is something I've been thinking about for a long time. It's a cocktail I had.

30:44There's this restaurant up in Leeds called Casa Susana. They have like a perfect tequila martini on the menu. It's so weird and it comes with like a little twist of like lime. But it works somehow. Wow. And I just feel like this is something that I've ordered probably like two dozen times at restaurants and bars across the city. And everyone hates it and is like, we can't do that. But OK, we'll try. And it's usually horrible. But like I would just love if one person could get this drink right. You don't even have to name it after me. I mean, you could. But yeah, that's something that I think about.

31:27That's something I think about probably once a week. Yeah, I did an actual double take when you said that because I've never had one before. And Mezcal and tequila are like my default liquors of choice. Wow. So a Mezcal Negroni is probably my go-to drink, you know? Yeah. Have you asked the Casa Susana people about why theirs is so good? I did not. But when I ordered it, like all the ingredients are there on the menu. And it's like three lines of things. And there's like liqueurs in there. Oh. It's like a whole like. Oh, and people in New York are probably just giving you. Like, hell no. No wonder it's not working out for you.

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32:09They're like, we do not want to make this. So I feel like this would really take someone. This would be a labor of love from someone who either loved me or loved tequila and vermouth. Yeah. Other one. Yeah. Well, I hope that you get to have it again someday. And I hope that I get to try it too because it sounds really good. Yeah. I feel like it would pair well with a beef pot pie. Ooh, yeah. Let's do it. Okay. And you know, like this is taste. We're asking you about your taste. I want to play a little rapid fire taste check with you. So I'll tell you like a category or question. You tell me the first thing that just pops into your head.

32:46Does that sound good? Yeah, that sounds great. Okay. Go to Bodega Snack. Bodega snack, chicken over rice. Go to weed bodega snack. Weed bodega snack, hot pot flavored Lay's. Go to bagel order. Probably a sausage, egg, and cheese on a sesame bagel. Untoasted. Untoasted? Untoasted. Okay, I have to ask why. You know, that's a good question. I feel like as a California transplant, I just never asked for a toasted and didn't look back. Right. That's kind of the right way to do it, I think. Is that right? I mean, that's what people say. I like Little Toast. Okay. I'll try that next time. Back to the wrap.

33:28Okay. Favorite cookbook. Favorite cookbook. I have been loving my former colleague James Park's Chili Crisp. Love it. Love it. Favorite New York City restaurant. Probably North Dumpling on Essex Street. Favorite New York City bakery. Golden Steamer on Mott Street. Favorite New York City bar. I think that's probably going to be El Pinguino and Greenpoint. Okay, restaurant that you wish could be your neighborhood restaurant. Ooh. I know, it's a dreamy question. That's a great question. What could be in my neighborhood? You don't have to move to the neighborhood. It just comes to your neighborhood.

34:11Oh, I totally know. I think it's got to be Marisco's El Submarino in Jackson Heights. Ooh. Mm-hmm. Okay. Okay, a now-closed New York City establishment that you wish you could revive? Oh my gosh. Uncle Boone's for sure. That's where I had my birthday in 2019, right before the pandemic. And that was my last time eating there. Miss it so much. A great answer. And to close, a fictional food scene that you wish you could eat in real life. Ooh. I probably once a day, I think about the bacon and eggs that are cooked in Howl's Moving Castle. You know, it's just like so perfectly over easy, the eggs, and then Lucifer or Calcifer, the little fire, like gobbles them up.

35:00I feel like he didn't even appreciate them. You would appreciate them. I would appreciate them. I'd name them after myself. I believe it. Well, Luke, thanks so much for coming by. This was so fun. Aw, thanks, Eliza. Appreciate you having me.

35:21Ravinder Bogle, welcome to This Is Taste. How are you doing? I'm very well. I'm very excited to be chatting to you. Thank you for having me. You're welcome. It's really an honor and exciting to talk to you. You're a great chef based in London. You've done television. You've done a show with Jay Rayner. We'll talk about that guy. And we'll go into your sensibility, you know, what your food stands for. But first, how the hell has New York been? New York has been fast. I think fast is the word. Intense, fast, delicious. Actually, I've eaten some really delicious meals while I've been here. But it's just great to be back.

35:59And the weather has been very kind. And apart from we arrived last Thursday and then woke up very optimistically on the Friday morning thinking that we'd go out and get breakfast and walked out into completely apocalyptic weather. It was crazy. I've never seen rain like it. But thankfully, it's cheered up and it's been really quite warm. It's been beautiful weather here since that crazy was apocalyptic. Where have you eaten? We're just in a spot. Well, I mean, of course, I ate at all the Union Square Cafe and Gramercy Tavern because I was cooking there. But Cosme has been my favorite meal here so far.

36:41I was just blown away by the flavors. And I think we don't get really great Mexican food in London. There are a few, but not enough the way they are here. And Cosme really took my breath away. It's so fresh and delicious and addictive and Moorish. Yeah, the corn, the nixtamalization there and the way that they think about the tortillas and just all the corn is amazing. It's just incredible. Yeah. Any in America or in New York only foods that you sought out when you were here? Definitely Mexican food. I think it was like the first day I was like, right, Mexican food. Because like I said, we don't get a whole load of great Mexican food in London.

37:21So let me ask you about running a restaurant in London right now. I was just there in June and I've talked about the show. I got to go to Brat, which was a highlight, Jolene, Beagle Bake, Bagel Bake, whatever you want to call it. Amazing. I mean, London is so exciting. Tell me what's it like right now running the restaurant. Are there any places that you want to shout out? Yeah, I mean, running a restaurant right now in London, I feel like it's a lot more optimistic than it was a few years ago. Of course, anyone who went through the pandemic, whatever industry you were in, it was a really, really hard time.

37:57a really terrifying time. You know, we, Nadim and I, my husband and I, we run the restaurant together. And I remember getting to three years in and we were like, wow, we're about to have the best year yet. We've just broken into profit. We're about to do this amazing event with Salman Rushdie. You know, all these incredible things were coming together for us. And we were so excited. And I remember I commissioned an artist to make this sculpture in the restaurant of spring flowers because I was feeling particularly optimistic. And then by March, the government had mandated closures and we were in the middle of a pandemic.

38:36And it was just really, really hard. And we didn't think that we were even going to make it through, but we did. And right now, I would say we're having a really great time. You know, things are still hard. The cost of everything is crazy. You know, the cost of goods, rents, electricity, everything is really high. But there seems to be this hunger for pent up hunger for restaurants. Yeah. So we're happily, you know, full most nights where we're in a wonderful area called Marylebone, which is just full. It's such a great neighborhood. We get such interesting people coming in to eat all the time.

39:18For me, it's like this kind of random sampling of humanity every time you walk up the stairs. And I think that's what I love about running the restaurant. You never know who's in or who you're going to meet, how your day is going to go. So, but it's really joyful right now. And I have a team, we've been open now, we've just celebrated our seventh birthday. We have a team of 24 people. Out of those 24, about 12 of us have worked together for six years. That's amazing to have half the staff be there from the jump. So we're now getting ready for that next thing. You know, what's next? And we definitely have some exciting plans up our street.

39:59I can't wait to hear about them. Now, you call your restaurant proudly inauthentic, which I think is really original. I don't think enough of that is said. Like you're proudly inauthentic. You're not proudly authentic. And so what is, for Giacconi, your restaurant, what does that mean exactly? So it was very difficult for us for a long time to coin what we did as a cuisine because I wish it could have been as easy as saying, I run an Indian restaurant or an Italian restaurant or a Chinese restaurant or pizza restaurant. And it just wasn't that simple. What we do at Giaconi is immigrant food. And for me, that is for people who have the ache for what they've left behind and that longing and pining, which is what I had when I came to England age seven.

40:44and then the wonder of your new landscape and what happens when you reconcile those two things. And I think for immigrants, when you leave something behind, you become very precious about it. You want to preserve it. And in fact, I think with immigrants, the funny thing is it's always the food that's the last thing to go. You might lose the way you dress or your language, but the food is what remains. And we hold on to it so possessively in a way. But for me, I grew up in a very densely immigrant area and I became the product. And as I grew up, I was brought up by all those wonderful communities around me.

41:24I shopped at all those wonderful mini economies, you know, from the Chinese supermarket to the Turkish supermarket to the Iranian supermarket. And that, of course, fed into my food culture. So you weave together what you know with what's new. And in doing so, you're creating a completely new cuisine. And that's what I think immigrant food is. Yeah, well said. And let me ask you, what are some menu items at the restaurant that you feel reflects this point of view, which I think is well articulated. It's common as well, but oftentimes restaurants aren't positioned this way. They're usually positioned.

41:57We're doing Carolyn cuisine. We're doing, you know, Tamil Nadu cuisine or etc. So what are some of the dishes just so we get a little food in the conversation? So I think one that really is the emblem of everything that we believe in at Giaconi, and we call ourselves a no borders kitchen. And this really is that, is the prawn toast scotch egg with banana ketchup and pickled cucumber. And when people ask us to describe it, we say it's like the bonnie love child of a British scotch egg and a Chinese prawn toast. And when you bring them together, you're creating something that's better than the sum of its parts.

42:34and we feel that actually it's symbolic and it's political and we're quite political in our food. We're basically saying when you bring cultures together, you're creating something that's better than the sum of their parts and that is the power of immigrants and immigration and immigrant cuisine. It sounds so good too. I'm just going to say like a prawn toast done in a scotch egg. Scotch egg has got the outer golden crust to it, right? And this crust is extra special. So rather than just using breadcrumbs, what we do is we get those really spicy Thai prawn crackers. We make a crumb out of them and then we pané or coat the egg with those.

43:18So when you deep fry, the rice in the prawn cracker kind of puffs up and goes really, really crisp. So you get this off-the-rick-to-crunch outside of the egg. and then you've got this very sweet, bouncy prawn mixture. I love it. And then a soft, runny egg in the middle, served with banana ketchup. I love it. It sounds so, oh my God. You must come. I love that you also said off the Richter. That is like the greatest phrase. I've never heard that in my life and I'm going to use it forever. Language, it's an amazing thing. Let me ask you about TV. You've done a lot of food TV. You hosted a show with Jay Rayner.

43:55It's kind of like the London's most feared restaurant critic. that's right and you're a chef and how does that work when you're a chef and you're doing a show with a feared critic yeah I mean you know at that time I was really just starting out and I remember I was approached by channel four who said look we're doing this show we're looking for some sort of action adventure cook who can travel to like all these parts of the world and I'd just written a book called cooking boots and I used to be a fashion and beauty writer so I wasn't your typical choice for something like that. And I just remember really wanting it because I was so interested in telling stories about food.

44:35For me, that's what food is about. It's about stories. It's about humanity. It's about the people behind the food. And I was really passionate about telling those stories. And I screen tested for it. And eventually they gave me the slot. And And then they announced, oh, and your co-host is going to be Jay Rayner. And I remember being completely terrified and feeling really out of my depth. But actually, Jay is wonderful. He is, I describe him as a mouth on legs. He really is that person. And I didn't have any idea at that time that I would open a restaurant. I had no ambition to open a restaurant.

45:17And when I was on set with Jay, he would eat the food that I was cooking. and he would just sort of say, your flavours are so idiosyncratic. I have never tried this combination of flavours together before and more people ought to eat your food. And if I were you, I would get serious and I would go and work in kitchens and learn the business of restaurants. And I'd never really had a mentor before. I came from a background where, you know, I'm the youngest of four sisters and my sisters were all married, you know, not really given an education, just married very off very early. And I had been told by my mother, you will cook for your husband and your children.

45:57And that is your parameter. You will not go beyond that. And to have this great man telling me this is what you can do. I took it very seriously. And I was very studious. And I went into kitchens and I worked and I worked really hard. And then I got in at that time, I think it was the luck of the draw as well, timing. The whole pop-up scene was like popping off in London. And I was approached... Like 10 years ago, 10 years ago, yeah. And I was approached by a couple of people, Anna Hansen first off, who was the chef at the Modern Pantry and said, I have this 90 cover space. Why don't you come and take it over for one night?

46:35And I'd never cooked for more than 20 people. My goodness, you did a 90 cover. And I did a 90 cover night. In fact, we were oversubscribed. And I remember the exhilaration, that adrenaline high of service, you know, and I was addicted instantly. It was like the biggest high I'd ever had. And I loved it. And then I, someone who was, someone who'd come as a guest that night worked with Mark Hicks, the British chef Mark Hicks, who had a restaurant in Selfridges. And she said, why don't you come and take over Selfridges? And the night I cooked at Selfridges, this guy approaches me and he's like, hi, I'm Mark Hicks' business partner.

47:16And I really think you have something. And do you want to start a conversation? No way. That's where it started. A restaurant. Yeah, cool. And I was like, no, actually, no, I don't want to open a restaurant. And this conversation went on for six years until finally I had been doing a series of private catering and pop ups. And actually, a lot of my clients for private catering ended up being chefs, which is such a compliment. So I remember being taken aside one night. I was doing a six-week run at the South Place Hotel. And Faye Mashler, who's another food critic, had been following my career.

47:54And she took me aside and said, when are you going to stop being such an effing coward and just commit to a space of your own? All that a coward by a restaurant critic. It's like, well, if you don't, you know, if you don't review me so negatively, let's work on it. And, you know, I think it took another woman to have me. And it felt like this kind of Virginia Woolf-esque challenge, you know, this space of my own. And I was so tired at that point of dragging boxes of produce around on the London Underground and being exhausted and upturning bottles of olive oil on myself, you know, when I was tired.

48:33And I just thought, yeah, it's time. And then by that point as well, I'd really birthed the idea and the philosophy of Giacconi and what I wanted to do and what I wanted to represent. And I'd really got it clear in my head. And then it was about finding a site, which took another two years because I only wanted to open in Marylebone. And then that was it. We, you know, we found the site. Again, the chances of me getting that site, I'd been told by the landlord there was no way they were going to give it to me. I had no reputation, no operational experience, no money. And they were like, you know, they literally laughed me out of their offices.

49:14What changed it then? What drew them to you eventually to sign the lease? Well, I think it was my bloody mindedness. I just wouldn't stop. I just kept saying to them, look, I'm not treading on anyone's toes. The concept I have is so unique and you don't have another woman on your estate. And, you know, I have a story to tell and you have to listen and you have to hear me out. And I think I ended up pitching to them three times before they finally caved. and I remember they called me on, it was 2015 and it was the 23rd, the 23rd of December. So right before everyone was going off for Christmas and they said, you haven't got the deepest pockets but you've got the biggest mouth.

49:58We're going to give you the sights. Oh, what a good story. And eventually you've opened, you've run there since in the same space, upgraded there. Yeah, seven years. Oh my gosh. Yeah. Let me ask you, do you read food media in London? in? I always want to tap in with chefs and writers because, you know, it's an amazing scene to cover and it really didn't have a lot of coverage for a long time. It had critics, but now places like Vittles are open. And what do you read? Do you know what? I have to say, I don't read a lot of food stuff because I feel that restaurants and the food industry are so all consuming that, and I love reading.

50:36I'm an avid reader. I'm, you know, I studied English. So it's kind of my thing. So when I read, I choose to read things like fiction because otherwise I would be fully consumed. There is so much out there. The volume is so great. And I just feel that I now want to focus. I've been, I love telling stories. I'm a bit of a story writer. Even in my columns, I try and tell stories through food that are ultimately about food, but not about food, about humanity. And that's kind of what's been interesting. So I take a lot of time to read fiction. Yeah, fair enough. I like that. Yeah. And so I think that is kind of where I'm kind of trying to get to as well.

51:22Let me ask you about your new book, Comfort and Joy. It's plant-based and it's not your general mission in life, but this book is tackling plant-based cooking. What brought you to that concept? So Comfort and Joy, it's a bit of a long story, but it started during the pandemic. And, you know, like so many restaurants, we were mandated, you know, shut by the government. And I just think that hospitality is something that is so deeply entrenched in us as people that I found that after two weeks of sitting at home thinking, what are we going to do and panicking that most of us just sort of thought hang on a minute we've got these fantastic kitchens and we should put them to use and just because the government has shut our doors it doesn't mean that our hospitality will stop and there are people there are vulnerable people in the city hospitals frontline workers who need feeding so let's put our kitchens to work And so it was at that time we weren't allowed to have our teams in.

52:30So it was literally myself and my husband. We were going into the restaurant. We were cooking 60 meals a day for King's College Hospital. A dear friend of mine is a doctor there. And when I heard what they were going through, the hours they were doing, I was just I just wanted to do anything. Was that supported by the government? Were they paying you to do that or was that just out of your own pockets? That was out of our own pockets at that time. So we were just cooking and a lot of our guests and regulars and friends donated money for us to buy ingredients. And, you know, it was such a lovely community effort.

53:04And so many people in our industry did that. And that's what I think is beautiful about our industry. And I remember saying to my husband at the time a couple of things, one of which was, wow, you know, hospitals are just such international community. And yet when you go to the hospital cafe, all you can get is a sandwich or like fish and chips. And for all these people who are from all over the world working in restaurants, I want them to have a sense of comfort and home. And so I'm going to cook these like vegetarian, globally inspired meals. And hopefully people will taste home. You know, for all those people who are spending 15 hours a day working in a hospital, being away from their family.

53:49Some of them were staying away from their families because they were at such high risk with COVID. And then I said, you know, all people need right now is comfort and joy and something about it just stuck. And it was really the first time I'd had off from running the restaurant to really sort of think and reminisce. And I started thinking about my grandfather a lot. And his story is extraordinary. I mean, it's like an epic. So he was this man who was born in India, in the north of India, and wanted a better life and better opportunities. So he ran away from home, ended up in Bombay with his brother.

54:30They got on a migrant boat sailing for 26 days to Kenya, where apparently there were opportunities. Something went badly wrong with the ship. And this is, you know, I can't imagine the hardships they would have faced, starvation, bodies being thrown overboard. and they ended up back in Bombay and his brother was like, I'm never doing that trip again. Yet my grandfather, this incredible pioneer, gets back on this boat, takes a voyage in the dark, ends up in Kenya. You know, this is a time where Kenya then was still a British colony. There were racial divides, language barriers, alienation, poverty.

55:11He faced it all, yet he spent all of his time falling so deeply in love with this beautiful alluvial benevolent soil that just seemed to give and give and he bought a little plot of land and he began to you know plant and as I was growing up I just witnessed him on this shamba the allotment and to see this spiritual relationship he had with the land and the love that ebbed between him and the land was just such a gorgeous experience. And to see someone who had come from such scarcity and his gratitude for And will. Yeah. And will. I mean, getting back on that boat is just, it's a real brassy moment.

56:02Exactly. And to see just the gratitude he had, I think he said, thank you a million times a day to providence, you know, to this invisible force of nature that was giving him this joy. And his philosophy was just beautiful because he would pick up something as simple as an onion and he would say, this is a miracle because this thing has withstood pests, blight and bad weather. And yet it comes to our table. We can cook with it and we can share what we cook with it with those that we love. And I think we have become so disassociated from where our food comes from that this book was this manifesto of celebrating the joy of the plant kingdom, the vegetable kingdom, and saying that there are all these wonderful things that you can do.

56:52And why should we only reserve our love and tenderness and care for a chop or a steak when actually I come from a culture where vegetables have always been at the center of the table, where vegetables have been the whole meal? and there are so many ways to enjoy them. And I want to share that with people. I want to share how you can take something as unsexy as a turnip and do something by adding a friction of spices to it and doing something magical and ending up with something that has gone from ordinary to extraordinary. It's a great story, Ravinder. I thank you for sharing your family story and how this will from India to Kenya of your grandfather has really informed, it seems like, your life, obviously, but your spirit with cooking.

57:43Are the recipes, in a sense, from a place, or is it really as varied as you explained? I think that is how I cook. I cook. I'm an immigrant. my sensibility is a very immigrant you know style of cooking I am a Londoner I am exposed to all these and I travel a lot so I'm exposed to flavors from around the world all of the time and I'm excited to embrace them and and yeah and I also think it comes from you know my style of cooking is also very maternal. So the maternal cook is the cook who has this strong intuition. The interplay between you and the ingredient is like this really intuitive one. And because I grew up in a kitchen surrounded by these women who just knew which flavors went together with what, my nose as well, because I grew up around so many spices, is attuned almost like a bloodhound to flavors and scents.

58:49And I instinctively know what flavors are going to go with what. And I think people say this at the restaurant, like there's a recipe in the book for chargrilled peaches with whipped tofu and a Thai basil gremolata. And I promise you make it. It's very easy. It's a 15-minute recipe. Yeah, it sounds cool. It sounds really, really smart. But there's something about the aniseed of basil next to the sweetness of a peach that somehow makes the peach taste even more of itself than you thought was possible. I love that. It's like, even if they're out of season with the grilling, it's going to work really well.

59:26Exactly. I love that. On This is Taste, we ask guests about their discerning taste. So to close this interview, here's a little rapid fire, fast and furious taste check. Ravinder, are you ready? I am ready. The best American breakfast food? Pancakes. I mean, slabs of carbohydrate. Who can resist? Oh, my gosh. Do you have a favorite style or flavor of pancake? I love, I don't know if they're so American, though, but like ricotta hotcakes. Oh, definitely. Oh, very American. Very Italian, but also very American. The best British breakfast food. Best British breakfast food, I'd say, is a full English.

1:00:02You know, the sizzle of, the promise and the sizzle of bacon and sausages and eggs in a pan is really kind of welcoming, I'd say. but actually another tradition that I have is a Punjabi breakfast on a Sunday, which is a similar sizzle, but it's a paratha. And because I cook in such a cross-cultural way, so in the Chikoni cookbook, there are kimchi parathas. So parathas are this sort of flatbread, and we stuff them normally with potatoes or cauliflower, but these are stuffed with kimchi and cheese with a fried egg on top. That sounds extremely good. Wow. I'm really, really fascinated by this. It's like a pagine.

1:00:43It's like a Korean style pancake, but with different carbohydrate, different bread. The best dessert? Tiramisu every single time. And there is one that I dream of forever. And it was made. It's in Cortona in Italy, which is a restaurant on the sort of Tuscan-Umbrian borders called Trattoria Dardano. and I think I went there for a week and I ate at that restaurant four times while I was there and by the end he knew that I loved his tiramisu so much that he just bought it to me in a whole bowl and left the whole bowl at the table and just said, knock yourself out Oh, it's so cool But you know, it was that kind of dreamy tiramisu that is so light and bubbly and has no shape or form it just sort of slops on your plate and it's just delicious It doesn't do pretty, to be honest I love that tip, too, of if you find yourself enjoying a meal on vacation, you don't need to go to the other place.

1:01:45Keep going back. Yeah, exactly. Great, great call. Your favorite cookbook of all time? My favorite cookbook of all time is probably Mother Jafri's Eastern Vegetarian Cooking. I just think she was so forward thinking. I think she had a lot of trouble as well being sort of pigeonholed as just an Indian cook and cookery writer. But Eastern Vegetarian Cooking, she was writing about, you know, Szechuan cuisine and Turkish cuisine and Indian cuisine and regional Indian cuisine. It's just such a smart book. It's a Bible for me. Is there a recent favorite cookbook discovery that you have? I do. And that is by my friend Jeremy Lee.

1:02:24And it's called Cooking Simply and Well for One or Many. And when you get to know Jeremy, he is this complete, charming, completely unique man. And the writing in the book is so sharp and witty and fun. And there are aphorisms that only Jeremy could come up with. He describes a particular pie. It's a leek pie or something. And he says it has the Presbyterianism of a leek pie. And I just think it's a very germy thing. It's a good turn of phrase, yeah. A couple more. Your favorite vegetable. Favorite vegetable changes with the seasons. Right now, I'm loving corn, all things corn. Late season for us, and it's really still very good right now.

1:03:11It's still very good. We just, so for my pop-up at the Gramercy Tavern, we did a recipe from the book, which is a hot and sour sweet corn risotto. And it is this, and everyone loved it. So it's this risotto cooked very much in the Italian tradition. So you start by sweating onions with some chili and some garlic and then you go in with your carnaroli rice. But rather than just using a vegetable stock, I make a hot and sour broth in the Thai style and then sort of start spooning that in. And then in goes some fresh corn, some corn puree and a lime leaf butter at the end. And so you have all those kind of wonderful aromatics of Thailand, the ones that make you feel very well and nourished.

1:03:55but in the sort of comfort of an Italian risotto and it's a dream dish. Mike Anthony, was he into that one? He loved it. Yeah, I can imagine. It sounds great. He was just, I think he just loved the dishes. I loved working with him and his team. They're just such professionals but the kind of respect, the curious intelligence of his team, you know, asking all the right questions but just the way they embraced. I mean, Mike and I were saying Our cooking is so different in so many ways, but also our sensibility is a very casual one. It's about making the person who eats it feel nourished, well, taken care of.

1:04:36Your favorite sandwich? Favorite sandwich is something that I still dream of all the time. It is a leftover sandwich. So my mother used to make this cauliflower curry and she would make a lot of it. And then when it was left over the next day, it would go into a Breville toaster mixed with cheese, normally mozzarella, like melty mozzarella and a sharp cheddar. And because the cauliflower curry had turmeric in it, it would seep through and dye the bread sort of this lovely amber golden color. And it would go so crisp and she would brush it with ghee, so clarified butter. So it would go super crisp.

1:05:17Love that. With these two types of cheese, the sharp cheddar. Yeah, exactly. It sounds like an amazing way to use a toaster. It's an amazing sandwich. Let's shout out your friend who reached out to me and made this happen. I just want to. Sham Sandhu. I adore him. He's not just my friend. He's my adopted brother and I just adore him. Well, thanks for listening to the show, Shams, and for making this beautiful introduction. I loved talking to you. Ravinder Bogle, thank you so much for joining This Is Taste. My pleasure. Thanks for having me.

1:05:51This is Taste is hosted by Matt Rodbard and me, Eliza Abarbanel. The show is produced by Shalia Harris and Pat Stango and edited by Clayton Gumbert. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Visit Taste online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all cool things happening.

From the publisher

Luke Fortney is a reporter at Eater New York, where he keeps an eagle eye on openings and closings, plus trends like the city’s burgeoning breakfast burrito scene. Aliza had him on the show to talk about what it’s like staying on top of New York’s ever-shifting dining landscape. Whether you live in New York City or you’re thinking about taking a trip there, it’s a must-listen.
Also on the show Matt catches up with British cookbook author, journalist, and chef Ravinder Bhogal to speak about her great new cookbook, Comfort and Joy: Irresistible Pleasures from a Vegetarian Kitchen.
Do you enjoy This Is TASTE? Drop us a review on Apple, or star us on Spotify. We'd love to hear from you.  
MORE FROM LUKE FORTNEY & RAVINDER BHOGAL:

New York’s Illegal Weed Market Is Propped Up by Imported Chips That Taste Like Tacos [Eater]

New York’s Most Exciting Restaurant Openings This Fall [Eater]

Ravinder Bhogal’s Pumpkin and Squash For Autumn [The Guardian]

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