475: A Top Chef Doesn't Need Tweezers with Dan Barber

7 Oct 2024 · 59 min

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In short

Podcast Notes: This Is TASTE Episode 475 - A Top Chef Doesn't Need Tweezers with Dan Barber

Episode Overview In this episode, hosts Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard interview Dan Barber, a renowned chef and co-owner of Family Meal at Blue Hill in Manhattan and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Barber, also the founder of Row 7 Seed Company, discusses his innovative approach to modern agriculture, focusing on unique vegetables like the red Badger Flame beets and Sweet Garleek.

Key Themes and Discussions

Introduction to Dan Barber

  • Background: Chef and co-owner of Family Meal at Blue Hill, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and founder of Row 7 Seed Company.
  • Philosophy: Advocates for a fresh and timeless cooking style, avoiding over-manipulated dishes that rely on techniques like tweezers for plating.

Row 7 Seed Company

  • Purpose: Founded to push the boundaries of modern agriculture, focusing on flavorful and nutrient-dense produce.
  • Featured Vegetables:
  • Red Badger Flame Beets: Bred to minimize geosmin (the earthy flavor) to appeal more to children and the general public.
  • Sweet Garleek: A new garlic variety that combines characteristics of garlic and leeks, gaining popularity in the culinary scene.

Cooking Philosophy and Practice

  • Day-to-Day at Stone Barns:
  • Barber emphasizes collaboration with sous chefs and cooks, creating a dynamic kitchen environment without a traditional menu.
  • He prefers to be actively involved in cooking during service rather than overseeing from the pass.
  • Focus on creating a fresh experience using available ingredients while encouraging cooks to report on their dining experiences to foster creativity.

Culinary Landscape and Challenges

  • Post-COVID Changes:
  • Blue Hill reduced staff and covers per night, transitioning to a more relaxed shared plates concept that encourages convivial dining experiences.
  • Concerns about Food Trends:
  • Barber argues that the current dining landscape is overly focused on presentation for social media rather than the flavor and story behind the food.
  • The importance of understanding the natural world and ingredients is central to his cooking approach.

GMO vs. Heirloom Debate

  • Definitions:
  • Barber distinguishes between traditional breeding practices and GMO (genetically modified organisms) which involve inserting foreign DNA.
  • Advocates for breeding that focuses on flavor and performance without the drawbacks of commercial GMO practices.
  • Sustainable Agriculture:
  • Emphasizes the need for diversity in crops to enhance food quality and tackle agricultural challenges.

Future of Row 7

  • Pipeline for New Produce:
  • Discusses plans for introducing innovative varieties, including a spinach romaine hybrid aimed at improving the nutritional profile of salads.
  • Chefs as Advocates:
  • Highlights the role of chefs in promoting new ingredients and educating consumers about their benefits.

Personal Food Experiences

  • Dining Preferences:
  • Enjoys cooking with his children at home, focusing on dishes they'll enjoy without forcing them into a restrictive eating experience.
  • Favorite Foods:
  • Celebrates seasonal ingredients like pawpaws and emphasizes the importance of using fresh, flavorful produce.

Key Takeaways

  • Cooking Philosophy: Embrace simplicity and authenticity in cooking, prioritizing flavor and the natural qualities of ingredients over elaborate presentation.
  • Focus on Flavor: The culinary industry should shift back to valuing taste and nutrition rather than aesthetics driven by social media.
  • Advocacy for Diversity in Agriculture: Sustainable food systems require diverse crops which can lead to more flavorful and nutritious produce.

Conclusion The episode features an engaging conversation with Chef Dan Barber about his innovative approach to cooking and agriculture, reinforcing the importance of flavor, sustainability, and the story behind the food that shapes our dining experiences. Barber's insights offer a thoughtful reflection on the future of cooking and the role of chefs in advocating for better produce in the culinary landscape.

For more information and updates, listeners are encouraged to visit [TASTE online](https://tastecooking.com).

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Transcript

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0:00This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. Resi is a digital platform that connects restaurants to restaurant lovers by elevating dining experiences, providing original industry content, and helping to fill some of the country's most exciting dining rooms. Because restaurants have always been more than just places to eat. The amazing world of restaurants is just a few taps away in the Resi app and at resi.com.

0:31In fact, I've had incredible meals that are unbelievably beautiful and tweezer-heavy. And obviously, so much of it prepped well in advance and kind of just put together at the end. But that's not what I want to be doing.

0:50This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbar.

0:59Today is such a great interview. Dan Barber is the chef and co-owner of Family Meal at Blue Hill in Manhattan and the legendary Blue Hill at Stone Barns. He's also the founder of Row 7 Seed Company, a seed company built by chefs, farmers, and breeders that is pushing the boundaries of modern agriculture. On this episode, we talk about his Row 7 vegetables, including red badger beets and the semi-viral produce of the season, sweet garlic. We also talk about his day-to-day cooking at Stonebarns and how his aversion to tweezers has led to a philosophy that is both fresh and timeless. I so enjoyed catching up with Dan, and I hope you enjoy this conversation.

1:51Dan Barber, welcome to This is Taste. How are you doing, man? Great. Thrilled to be here. Okay, we are recording this on a Monday morning, and we are off mic a little bit. We're talking about a case of the Mondays. But Monday is the start of your weekend. Dude, this is my Saturday morning. I'm loving it. You're loving it. No, it's usually actually the most, as for everyone, it's stressful. But I have the Blue Hill and Stoneburns open Wednesday through Sunday, So I'm always jettisoning things off to the Monday morning. I'll handle that on Monday. Yeah. So you have a stack. Give me a ring on Monday.

2:25Let's do that meeting on Monday. And then, you know, you wake up. Oh, Jesus. Monday, Tuesday is just cleaning up. So what do you got today? What did you push off as, you know, your Monday tasks? Well, I usually start Monday morning with the row seven team. So I actually just got off the phone downstairs with the president and the COO. And that's usually like an hour of just like all the shit that went bad last week. So, you know, it's not putting out fires. It's like learning about the fires over the weekend and the end of last week and thinking about what a crazy business it is to be in produce right now, which is where I'm in with Row 7.

3:08Yeah, we're going to get into Row 7. And I think it's a new brand to many of our listeners. Everyone who's listening knows you from Blue Hill, the Stonebarns Institute, and all the work you do around the tri-state with ag. Before we get into all that, please, Dan, tell me, where have you been dining out in New York City while not on the clock, while working? Not on the clock. Yeah, I mean, isn't it? Is that an unfair question because you're kind of always doing it? No, it's a very fair question. I don't feel unfair, unfairly asked about my dining habits, but I don't have any. That's what's unfortunate.

3:46You know, I have two young girls who are now not so young. They're 11 and 8. And I do cook every night. So the two nights that I'm home, we like to do dinner at home. Although I love going out to eat. I love going out to eat with my kids. They don't love it yet. I think it's turning. I think it's turning. So interesting. So I love to hear that you're you're you only have two free nights. You're working the rest of the service up at Stone Barns or down at. I'm not really cooking at family meal at Blue Hill. I used to do Mondays and Tuesdays there. Religiously, but then COVID and then after COVID, we changed the concept.

4:28And I I really want to spend my kids are just. So what are you making when you're at home committing to cooking with them? anything my girls say that they will eat which you know there's a there's a small window but i'm i'm squeezing the lemon there because uh you know i'm trying to sneak in little tastes without being the guy who's forcing food yeah you don't want them to hate it early on oh yeah no they're they're good i don't that's the thing i my both my wife and i pledge to each other that we would not make food into a hardship or a thing that they had to do or, you know, that kind of thing.

5:06So I just don't want to be that dad. I absolutely respect that. We do a lot of pizza. Yeah. A lot of pasta. But I'm always thinking in some veggies and diversity. It's like just diversity. So they're not freaked out, you know, later in life when they see a vegetable that, you know. So when you are working up at Stone Barns, what's your day like? I mean, when you're not on your day off like today, how do those days usually go down? I'm starting the day with the sous chefs always. I get there actually before this because I drop my kids at school and then I continue up to Stone Barns. And so I start my day with the sous chefs always just to get situated.

5:45I'm like, okay, here's what we have in house. Here's our little like playlist of opportunities. You know, we don't have menus at Stone Barns. So it's not like creating dishes, but it is every day. It's sort of a different take on what we're doing. So that takes up a lot of time. And then, and we'll usually meet several times during the day. But that, the sous chefs first, then it's always the cooks meeting. That's a nice half an hour to download the weekend. Like where did everyone eat? I like the cooks to report because that's how I learn. Because I haven't been out to eat since my first daughter was born, essentially, really, it's been 11 years.

6:24so I'm changing that now but over the last 10 years I've really drilled to the cooks okay where did you eat and what did you learn so they give a little report and I learned like what's going on and a lot of them live in the city yeah a lot of them live in the city and if they don't they go into the city on the weekends and they eat around it's amazing so you really get a snapshot of what's happening so that's great so I do it for them but I really do it for me and then I'm in the throws of the day I'm usually meeting with front of house management and then I'm into, you know, row seven during the bulk of the day right now because it's a lot of moving parts.

7:04And I check in with Blue Hill, New York in the afternoons. And then, you know, when service starts, I'm in service. You're on the pass. I'm not on the pass. I'm on the line. I don't like the pass. Why not? Tell me. Because it's too late. The pass, it's like, what are you doing? You know, you're saying, ah I wish that could be better but what am I going to do am I really going to throw that dish back and and kill the five top because the fish is overcooked no I can't you know no I liked I actually really like to be in the scrum and I feel like that's where the cooks thrive and I can be there with them and you can oversee much more when you're when you have that kind of like grand like You're on the line in the scrum, as you call it, and you can kind of check in the different stations.

7:55I'm running around every station, every station, all night. I'm like, I'm a ping pong ball. And I just, you know, what is that the writer, Nabokov, he said, I like to fondle details. Yeah. And I like, that's where I am at. Too much, but that's my comfort zone is like real, real, you know, granular. Does your staff thrive on having you in the scrum versus kind of the stereotypical setup of the brigade is the pass, is the captain, is the lead, and you're the one doing the final check? I mean, do they thrive on you being down there doing a lot of the same hard work? I think they do. Yeah, I think they do.

8:37I mean, with us, with this no menu system, it really does necessitate being in there in a way that most restaurants aren't set up. So there's a lot of chaos, I got to say. Yeah. Yeah. I mean, especially. A lot of stress. Yeah. And I appreciate you admitting that because I think it's like really, really clear when you dine at Stone Barns that, and with no menu, with the changing menu, that you're really working hard to execute these dishes. When were you there, man? I was there in 2018. Okay. So it was a very different, I feel, menu was pre-COVID. And it was, I had a wonderful tour and kind of conversation about your bread program.

9:23Okay. It was during that era when you were doing a lot of, you're showing a lot of your whole products. Yeah. Still doing that. You're still doing that. Oh, man. Yeah. What's it like right now to visit Stone Bar? And I'd love to get our guests a sense because we know the name, the accolades. But honestly, many can't go there because of variety of reasons. But tell us what's up. You know, the big change from pre-COVID to post-COVID. Well, first of all, the brigade, as you call them, it's a lot. I used to have 45 cooks in the kitchen. Now we're down to kind of half the size. We also do half the covers.

9:54You know, I used to do 120. Now we're down to like 45 covers. We do one seating. Oh, beautiful. Yeah. Yeah. That was not the case when I was there. No. No, we were seating people at 9.30 and 10 and going till one or two o 'clock in the morning. It was brutal, brutal. And cooks come in very early. So it was too much. And I mean, too much for this generation, I think. And also just, I don't wanna be in that way. So that's very different. But for the guest experience, the biggest thing is you said you went on a tour, but now it's mandatory. Like you come in, like in order to get a reservation, you kind of have to do a tour.

10:34It's a tax deductible donation to Stoneburn Center. We don't, it's not us making the money, but I think it's like the most important part of the meal is it just orients you. And for me, I have a lot of insecurities. One of them is my presentation of my food. It's not ornate. It's not complicated. And there's a lot of discipline and technique, but the showmanship with garnishes and with plate presage is very organic and very, as natural as I can make it out to be. I don't like the, I don't know how to cook with - Yeah, the tweezer. And it's not that I don't think you can cook successfully that way.

11:19I don't have a negative opinion about that at all. In fact, I've had incredible meals that are unbelievably beautiful and tweezer-heavy. And obviously, so much of it prepped well in advance and kind of just put together at the end. But that's not what I want to be doing, and I don't know how to do it. Well, also, Dan, and let's get vulnerable because I want to hear about some of these insecurities. But, Dan, tell me, you know, when cooking a menu that changes daily, you can't do that structured style plating. Right. Because of the - I'm forced into it. Six days of prep required for some dishes.

11:59Right. I'm forced to, exactly. But you're still insecure. I mean, that's, to me, feels surprising, but I love hearing it because I think a lot of people in food maybe recognize that, but like, what are you insecure about? Well, I become more insecure. See, that's the interesting thing. And that, you know, As I've met some success and gotten older, you know, I'm older now. I'm more insecure than I used to be. I was like, I was a cowboy a couple years ago. You know, I don't know. It's mostly because the world of fine dining has just become, like, the bar is freaking high. you know and and my food for whatever reason i just get really freaked out with more than like three ingredients on a plate and i don't maybe it's like the upper east side jewish thing that i grew up with i don't like the feeling that a lot of hands were touching the food i don't it doesn't you know pretension is part of it and like the vectors are all pointing at something that I'd otherwise point the vectors out, you know, out.

13:04What is it that you're eating that connects you to the natural world? That's more interesting to me. But that means people have to value that. You know, I don't wanna play the high moral thing, you know, and not be recognized and not be able to run a business. I also wanna cook with the best cooks in the world, you know, so I'm balancing this thing And I'm like a schizophrenic, you know, because most of my day, like starting with the sous chef through the cooks meeting into the service is like, what am I going to do with these chicken mushrooms that came in? I just got a call this morning that I'm going to get some chicken mushrooms this afternoon for Wednesday.

13:47You know, it's a beautiful moment for chicken mushrooms. Like, what am I going to do with chicken mushrooms that my cooks are going to be psyched about? you know because if if if i do what i would like to do which is braise them you know and like finish them with a little bit of rosemary and glaze them with our chicken sauce you know and serve it on a plate naked and alone i'd be most psyched to do that but are the cooks in my kitchen that i'm working side by side and demanding that they work an extraordinarily difficult and long day with a lot of pressure and discipline, is that what they're going to thrive off of?

14:27Interesting. I mean, really fascinating that you are looking to put your sous chefs and your cooks into a position of success and not just cooking the same mole. And I want to go back to - Where there's the tension. What is success? Because the tension is, do you meet them in the Instagram photo heavy thing? Or do you do something that I feel is actually more the future of food? I think we're going to look back at this period of intense manipulation and think of it, you know, like we think of past eras of food. Yeah, we think about black and white television. Yeah, or molecular. I mean, it is a reframing of molecular gastronomy.

15:07I mean, Dan, though, do you worry a little bit that there'll be incrementally less people interested in going to Stone Barn. Worry. I wake up every morning thinking that. I mean, that's all I think about. Yes, I think, of course. I think it's I think I might be, you know, the last of the Mohicans that are actually cooking. You know, I don't know. No, I mean, it's clear. And like with a lot of New York City and the area being swooned by many different chefs and styles in many different boroughs and like food is exciting as ever in New York City. But also it's like a little unfocused, Right. And media, our job has, I thought, I think, become a little unfocused in some ways.

15:49It's not a criticism, maybe not unfocused, but I'm interested in more things. I'll say that that is what I would frame it. I'm trying not to be negative. And like sometimes the older guard like yourself gets forgotten about in some ways. I worry about getting forgotten about, too. Thank you for reminding me. It's another thing to add to my list. Dan, I said from the get-go, I appreciate you being vulnerable. And really, it's cool to hear that. And one more question about Stone Barns, and we're going to move on to row seven. But that's why the tour is so important. We started with that. That's why the tour is so important, because you've got to give people the story of what's going on literally outside our kitchen, you know, in this mixed-use farm of vegetables and grains and animal agro, how it all works together.

16:36And then you come to your seat. And then this is unconscious. This is not a thing that I would ever say out loud, but since we're talking honestly. Yeah, I've got microphones over this one. I think unconsciously the idea there is the diner says to him or herself, why would you manipulate this beyond recognition? What I just experienced, you kind of want it unplugged and uninterrupted. And then there's an opportunity to do something that is more natural, seemingly less sophisticated. I want to just make sure that I don't undersell the idea there's a tremendous amount of technique and discipline going into these dishes.

17:18But they don't feel manipulated and they don't feel self-conscious, I hope. And that I think gets excused because you've had an hour of indoctrination into something much larger than a plate of food. Absolutely. And like, you know, peas on Baroto doesn't really hit on Instagram the way that another more structured dish does. So I really, really, really, really appreciate you offering a story when you visit Stone Barns. And also I agree as well that food should be uncomplicated. That is like at the heart of where restaurants began. in some ways. Yes. Though in France, you could say Escoffier kind of cooked the shit out of everything.

18:01So maybe I'm a little bit... Well, that's because the French had no teeth. But no, but I agree with you. The beginnings of it are very humble. Yeah. So I... Restaurant is a restorative. It's a broth. Yeah. Couldn't get more, you know, simple than that. It was a communal broth. And that's what started the restaurants. But cooking for social media, it feels like that's maybe a bee in your bonnet a little bit, just a little bit. A bee in the bonnet, I don't know if that's, maybe, but it's also something that I give into because it's reality. My cooks spend most of their day on Instagram and social media.

18:39So for me to ignore that and say I'm above that would be preposterous. Well said. So you mentioned the chicken mushrooms. We're entering, we're in mid-September while we're recording this. Dan, what's exciting you about the produce at Stone Barns, at the products you're cooking with and what you're cooking up there? Look, right now, row seven vegetables are really coming into their own, you know? So I'm not to put a plug for the stuff that I have. You should, you should. Yeah, that I have been the Yenta for, but there's a couple like our squashes and our potatoes and our beets. These things start to thrive in the cold weather evenings.

19:25all those root vegetables in general, but those in particular. So, you know, we've got a beet from a breeder in Wisconsin that was embarrassed, that his kids were embarrassed that he was a beet breeder because their friends made fun of the fact that their father created the worst vegetable in the history of the world. So he created, through a lot of trial and error, a beet that kids would love. He identified the cluster of compounds that kids are very sensitive to. It's called geosmin. Actually, adults are sensitive. Some adults don't. They never grow out of it. But kids especially don't like beets for a particular reason.

20:00And he bred against geosmin, which is really intense earthiness and created a beet that has very low geosmin and indistinguishable earthiness. So it's very different beet. It's called the badger flame. That's what he started the company with. This guy is really very much a genius, Erwin Goldman in Wisconsin. And so I think the badger flame genetics, you can grow it in the spring, you grow it in the summer, but I think it comes into its own in the fall. Look, it was bred. It was created in Wisconsin. So there's a reason for that. So I'm really looking forward to, it just turns up a notch when it gets that feeling of the coldness.

20:42Yeah, let's step back a bit and talk about founding Row 7. Why did you find it important to create and start and found in Yenta your own seed company? It happened from a conversation that happened 15 years ago. I was just invited a breeder back into the kitchen who was a squash breeder who ended up co-founding the company with me. But at the moment, I didn't know him. I'd heard he was a very talented breeder and he came in the kitchen. You know, he was one of the later seedings. He came in around 1230 at the end of his meal. I invited him in and just sort of awkwardly, I was like, if you're such a great squash breeder, why don't you create a butter, not squash, it actually tastes good.

21:18You know, why do we have to, why do we have to have brown sugar and maple syrup and honey to squash at Thanksgiving and the holidays and like to make the thing taste like squash. And he got very, very serious. Yeah, I was joking, but he got very serious. He said, in all my years of breeding, I've never created a butternut squash. It tastes good because no one's ever asked me to breed for flavor. And that was 2010, 15 years ago. But I think that was the moment the company started because I was like, what? Who are you talking to, man? You know, and then you learn all of like breeders are talking to Walmart, you know.

21:55Yeah, they're looking for like a commodity product that doesn't necessarily have to be at the level on the palate like you're expecting. So, but I'm. Yeah. OK. But like, sure. But, you know, there's other thing other people to talk to like chefs. So that's why I started the company. Let's talk to chefs. And then all of a sudden this world of breeders opened up to me and idiosyncratic, brilliant. and most of them frustrated by who they were talking to. I didn't know that. And all of them had, you know, I'm looking at a gray desk here and I'm thinking of the breed, every breed, I swear, there's a book to be written on the breeders that reached into their desk drawer for a variety that no one wanted, but that they kept, you know, and the Badger Flames won.

22:43The Badger Flame beet was rejected by everyone. It looks like a yam. It, you know, yellow beet won't sell. That's, you know, that's not round. Yellow beets don't sell, period. Every, this doesn't have enough yield. Okay, fast forward today. It's grown coast to coast. It's quickly becoming the most popular beet out there. And there was a couple, I was just heard of from a couple chefs in Austin, did a badger flame beet cook-off. 12 chefs did this like 12 course thing, a badger flame beet. What are they, are they doing like beet jerky? Yeah, everything. Yeah, roasted. Yeah. Also, the thing is so low in jasmine, you can slice it thin and serve it raw.

23:26So that's what I do at the restaurant. I serve carpaccio of this thing. Wild. Yeah, it's incredible. Oh, a thinly sliced. So how do you dress like a thinly sliced badger beet, red, black, badger flame beet? It's not red, it's yellow. Yellow, okay. Yeah. And, well, I do all different kinds of vinaigrettes, but this time of year, I'm still, right now, we're doing a beet and plum salad. And I serve it raw because it's a gateway drug into beets, I think. It's a whole new world. But it's like a parable for this whole thing. It's like if we talk to breeders, we could get an enormous diversity of flavor and nutrition, by the way, that is not available to us now.

24:08So that's why I started the company. It's like I was in these fascinating conversations with these breeders. And it wasn't like, oh, you know, you can breed this badger and it'll produce like three beets an acre, you know. For my tasting menu program. Right, right, right. Although, to be fair or to be honest, my first inclination was, oh, I'm going to have stuff that like no one else has and I'm going to breed for the restaurant. But what became quickly obvious was that it wasn't this wasn't an heirloom conversation. Heirlooms are great because the flavors usually, that's why they've been passed down over generations.

24:45They've been saved because they're so delicious. But they just don't perform well for farmers. Unless you have a Blue Hill that's locked into buying them, you know, then, okay, this is the one. Is there like fragility in an heirloom DNA? Yeah, yeah, sure. Well, first of all, heirlooms are from other places, you know, in the world. So like your terroir might be slightly off? Very off. Yeah. I mean, tomato, every heirloom that you look at, from someplace else. And the genetics respond to environment. And so you're growing it out of place. Plus it's old seed and, you know, it just doesn't perform well.

25:21So it's the 1%. So I don't, I didn't, like, I was an evangelist for heirlooms, you know, and - As was every chef between the - Because that's where the flavors makes us look like better chefs. I totally, but what if we could have those flavors and controversially, I will say, better than heirlooms, but also scale that so it's not just in our kitchens, but in the supermarket aisle. So to be clear, we're talking about new genetics versus heirloom and the way that you're working with your breeders and also your farmers around the country, not just the farms at Blue Hill, to create new vegetables that are more delicious but also grow better.

26:00I gotta ask you, the word GMO then, what does that mean to you in this whole equation? GMO stands for genetically modified organism. And all breeding, every vegetable since the Garden of Eden has been manipulated, genetically modified by our intrusion. That's agriculture. That's domestication. So we went from wild to domesticated. We started taking varieties in the wild that we liked and choosing, selecting for certain attributes. And then later we were taking parent lines, like this wild thing and this wild thing and putting it together and making a hybrid of two varieties. That's seeds. That's genetic modification.

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26:46GMO, as it is referred to today, is actually not GMO. It is transgenic, which means that you are taking a foreign DNA, a foreign gene from something that would never be a part of your genetic imprint of a vegetable. Naturally. Naturally. And you're inserting it. The first transgenic GMO was literally a shotgun, a gun that was shot into the DNA structure of a grain to produce a variety that had an attribute that would not naturally have happened in nature. That is not something that interests me. the explosion of GMO technology has been because seed companies are owned by chemical companies. And 65 % of our seed supply is owned by four chemical companies today, as we sit here today.

27:44So you got the seeds and you got to buy the chemicals. I mean, they go part and parcel. You don't make money on the seeds. You make money on the intervention. And that's why GMO technology is so valuable to these companies. It is not valuable to you in your garden and is not valuable to you as a chef because it's never produced anything delicious to eat. Never. So, you know, I'm not a fan. I'm interested in the technology. I'm not I'm not Luddite. I love technology. Do you think we hang on that term as a culture, as a food culture, a little bit too much? Do we focus on like this no GMO edict that we have in our mind or am I?

28:26Not really, not really. Actually, it's funny. You know, the world's changing now. The no GMO thing is breaking down. You know, it's becoming much more acceptable than it was 10 years ago. Much. You know, Europe was, you couldn't, part of the reason that GMO didn't actually really explode in the US is because of Europe and Japan with, you know, no, they're pure. They banned it. They banned it. Yeah, they banned the imports. That's changing. And that's frightening. But that's a lot because of the influence of big corporate monetization of this stuff, not because it's working. Yeah. What about solving hunger in America?

29:03That would be one, I would say, one argument for GMO is that we are a country over 300 million that doesn't really have a famine problem. And that's kind of a remarkable thing. I'm only putting this out there for you as a, you know, just as an idea. Food tonnage is not the problem with hunger. There's enough tonnage to feed two worlds, double the population. You could feed it. There's hunger because of unfairness, because of politics, because of corporate greed. There's so many reasons for hunger that are so cruel. It is not about tonnage. But the interests that are there to make a lot of money conveniently point to the fact that if you prevent GMO crop technology, you are making people starve.

29:54And that's a very powerful argument. It just happens to be very untrue. Yeah. So it's sort of like Trump. You keep saying it and people are like, oh, I guess it must be true. It's not true. It's just not just root and branch. It's not true. So, like, you know, you have to start with the idea that, like, efficiency is not one crop. You know, that's what GMO is. If you got a GMO seed, you're growing one thing of one variety on a very large set of acres. Very large. That's baked into this whole body. That's all eggs in one basket. Yeah, man. That's so, you know, that's not that if the weather agrees with you and for the last 40 years, we've had we had the most stable weather patterns of many centuries in the U.S.

30:50But now that's changing. And if you believe that chemicals don't degrade environments and are not bad for your health, and you believe that the stability of climates will continue, that you can grow one thing on 30 ,000 acres, one variety, then you should bet on GMO. But it's not a good bet. Not a good bet. And you've got to diversify in your life a lot of things. I mean, it's kind of the name of the game of having a healthy and happy life. Well, that's a very good philosophy, man. Diversification, yeah. Yeah, diversification in everything. And that is the biggest learning from agriculture. From what we call sustainable agriculture, if there's one thing to boil down to, it's diversity.

31:35I love that. That was great. Thank you for sharing. The GMO topic is difficult, and you said some really great things to chew on. Let's go back to Row 7 Seed Company, and you've kind of teased out one product to beat, But there's a big, big, big mission here to grow this into a much larger thing. You just announced and released the garlic. And it's kind of been all over my gram, just have to be honest. Nice, dude. It's everywhere. It was at Quarter Sheets, I think, this weekend, which is a great restaurant in Los Angeles. But, Dan, kind of outline how you see this company growing. Well, we started, like I said, as a small, tiny, that's a tiny seed company of a handful of weirdo breeders who love food and who had in their desk drawer a variety or two that they were saving because everyone had told them, no, this will never work.

32:33But they believed in it. And that's that we were like the Ellis Island of the rejects. You know, that was row seven. We still are today. I think every week we get a call from a breeder around the world. We have a network now of 50 or 60 breeders. It's crazy. And they all say the same thing. I hear you are interested. That was the Garlik. The president of a big seed company. It's an independent seed company, not GMO-related anything, but they're in Europe. And their alien breeder, who's quite famous, Hans Bongers, had a... That's a name. It's a name. it's truly great he hans banger's alien breeders very well in the alien world this guy is pretty pretty hot actually just retired but he had a his his rosetta thing rosetta stone was was the love child of a of a garlic and a leak you met i talked about parent lines a minute ago but you take the parent line of of a garlic a really delicious garlic take a parent line of a really just like you marry it and you get a awesome well that had been almost it had been impossible to do for a lot of reasons.

33:39One of it being garlic is really hard to outcross. That's what's called an outcross. And he figured out a way to do it at scale. And it took him 11 years. Now, this company spends$75 million a year on R &D for seeding. Okay, this is like one of the major ones. And what the president called me and he said, it's very exciting, but we're not going to release it. I was like, wow, you're not going to release it. He's like, yeah, there's no market for the outcross. I was like, you know, I played. I was like, yeah, there's probably no market for it. Inside, I was like, of course, there's no fucking market for it, man.

34:13It's like, it doesn't exist. So, yes, there's no market for it. And I tried it. I was like, you know, I was like, it's incredible. I mean, seriously, like, really delicious. I mean, before you continue with the story, because I love where we're going here. Like, how do you describe the flavor? I could say my bit, but, man, I really. What's your bit? Well, I think it's got the allium root and the kind of the core of a garlic. but the aesthetics of a scallion or a green onion. So it's kind of a visual trick. And I'm getting that like allium, like kind of like sofrito. Yes, sofrito. Nice, dude. Nice.

34:50I like that. And you can use the greens too, which is not a small thing. And the top, so you can't really use leek tops. No, not really. I mean, we try. You try, but like you really got to cook those a long time. But like these tops, I cooked the tops as well. Thank you for reminding me. I even tried them raw and they were fine. You know, they weren't that bad. Right. No, it's very versatile. I have it on every station in the kitchen. I can't get enough of this stuff. It's incredible. So the president's saying there's no market for it. The costs of bringing it into market are too much for the risks.

35:23Do you want it? They just gave it to us. You know, so we pay a royalty to him, but on 10 years of R &D from Hans Bongers, it's like, it's such a gift. Wow. And I'm excited because also another parable. It's like, how do you use chefs to, to not use is the wrong word, but how do you excite chefs with anything better than something that is new and stunningly delicious? As we said, that's catnip because it makes chefs look like better chefs. And so they're the ones who have brought, the reason you're hearing about garlic and it's on your social media is because of chefs. And I'm not, we're not doing marketing in that sense.

35:59We're just like releasing really delicious stuff that can scale, that has a place on the larger distribution chain. So for our listeners, can we buy it in green grocers? How are we? You can buy garlic at Whole Foods right now. Right. And then you're probably going to expand it. We're going to hopefully go across the country. So let's talk about the Row 7 pipeline. You've got this garlic launch. And just to add, you know, it's like you're a marketing agency as much as a seed company. You obviously have to win the media over in some ways to get the word out. Of course, it's about merchandising, too, within the Whole Foods.

36:40Exactly. Get people to taste, then they come back. The conversion rate of taste to sale is wild. It's wild. You know, me, I didn't know. What do I know about produce and supermarkets? You know, before this, we started the produce end of our seed business at Whole Foods. I was told, I was like, oh, you know, the best way to do this is demos in the store. So I was like, no way. I'm like, when I walk into the supermarket and someone's demoing something, I run to the other aisle. I mean, I just like, I don't want your junk shit. But you're not the average. We're not the average. And what I learned is that it's actually very compelling.

37:13And when you've got something that actually is compelling and delicious, the X factor's huge. It's really wild to see kids, like you're in the store, you're demoing. I've done a lot of this. And, you know, like that Badger Flame beat, You see kids in the cart, and you give them a free taste of the raw beet, raw beet with a little bit of salt. And then two minutes later, if I could tell you how many times I saw this, kid, they leave with a cart and then whoo, in a circle. Wanted a second. And mom's like, they want seconds. And then they got the bag and they're at the cash register. So what's the pipeline looking like for new products?

37:48Because it sounds like you probably have a big whiteboard with other seeds, other vegetables. There is some great stuff, man. It is so exciting what's out there. And some of it we're helping to shepherd. You know, we're creating with conversations with our network of chefs, with breeders. But a lot of it is also stuff that like was near, you know, was on the 10-yard line and we're helping to finish. There's a breeder. There's a former Monsanto breeder. Talk about GMOs. You know, there's a former Monsanto breeder, the head lettuce breeder for Monsanto. Brilliant guy in California who left Monsanto because he's like, you know what?

38:22But I don't want my headstone to read, I was the head lettuce breeder for Monsanto. And he's like, there's a nutrition crisis in this country, there is. And salad's the number one eaten vegetable in the United States. And I can do something about it because we could breed salad for intense nutrition. And it would be a Trojan horse into nutrition. And I've been out to his breeding field now a lot. It's so exciting what's possible. and you know there are a couple varieties that we're bringing on to row seven that one of its spinach lettuce here's an example spinach a couple years ago i was out in his field i'm walking by i see this thing i was like oh you know bill i didn't know you're you're breeding spinach he's like no no this is a romaine i like picking up i swear to god looks exactly like a head of spinach and he's like no it's it's romaine because i know i i get really pissed off when people eat spinach salad.

39:15I was like, why would you eat spinach salad? It's the spinach meant to be cooked. You know, you don't. Disagree or agree. I don't like spinach salad either. So I was me. I was like, OK, so what are you talking about? He's like, well, I made the romaine, a head of romaine. I bred it to look exactly like spinach. Wow. And it's really photos that you've never seen a romaine like this. It's completely photos like dark green, looks like a head of spinach. and it is so delicious. It is so wildly delicious. And this is funny. He said to me, yeah, I had dinner with him that night. I was like, and we ate the spinach.

39:50I was like, God, this is like so great. And, you know, we ended dinner. I was like, I was running the airport for a red eye. He's like, yeah, you know, I did the nutrition on this a couple of years ago. And they said it was, it was as nutrient dense as spinach. And I turned around, I remember at the door, I was like, Bill, you mean a lettuce, is as nutrient dense as maybe the most nutrient dense vegetable there is. He's like, yeah, yeah, I really got to find that study. So I followed up with him a couple of weeks later. I was like, you know, you said that about - You didn't really believe it, I bet.

40:19Well - You thought maybe it's an embellishment. I'm a skeptical guy and I embellish sometimes, you know, like we all do. And I was like, this guy, you know, he's really proud of this one. It's baby, sure. So I had to follow it up just gently. I was like, in the email, I was like, hey, you said, could you find that study? And he's like, oh yeah, yeah, I got to find it. Never sent it, nothing. You know, a couple months later, I was on the phone. It was like, hey, you remember that study about that thing? You know, the spinach lettuce. Oh, yeah, yeah. Let me find it. Nothing. Crickets. So I was like, okay.

40:46He's a brilliant guy. He's in his 70s. I'm not going to bother him with this thing. Meanwhile, I still was very excited about spinach lettuce. I'm just like, okay, it's not as nutritious as spinach, but it's like 10 times romaine lettuce. You know what I mean? So anyway, we go to release it. And I was like, you know what? I'm going to test this thing myself because it's still staying with me. You're making your own study. Yeah, why not? Well, it's a lot of money. We paid for it. And the nutritionist who I've known for years, he's this also very brilliant guy in Arizona. You know, he called me.

41:17I've never spoken to him on the phone. I've just done through email. And he calls me up and he's like, I've never seen anything like this. I was like, what, what the fuck? He's like, look at, go to your computer. He emailed me the thing. And he's like, I put it, I did it next to spinach. And you look at it and the levels are exactly, I mean, this thing is so nutrient dense. It is equivalent to spinach. It's crazy. It's crazy. That's an incredible story about how, you know, one idea can kind of expand into a large cultural movement. And I could see lettuce, spinach blowing up. And it's going to blow up because it tastes so good.

41:57Not because Bill's thing was like, I want to get nutrition into everyone's mouth. But mouthfeel is a romaine? But Mal feels wrong because he knows that there's a huge market for romaine and something unique because people think spinach salad is incredibly healthy. It's actually not. Cooking spinach is much more bioavailable. But anyway, that's the association. So that was where he was going. I was very brilliant. And he actually freaking nailed it on the equivalency. And the thing tastes – it's meant to be salad. It's so interesting. So, but why chefs for that? Because it tastes so good. Here's another level to the chef's advocacy, which is that like, we have to rethink our relationship with salad.

42:45Our relationship with salad right now is, salad is like a vector for like mix-ins and junk and ranch dressing. And, you know, it's a vector for fat. That hurts. Sorry. It's a pro ranch dressing podcast. Dude, I love ranch dressing. I know, I'm kidding. I love ranch dressing. It's good on pizza, maybe not on salad. It's good on iceberg. Yeah. But that's why iceberg is so popular because it doesn't taste like it. So then ranch is there and it serves a purpose. But lettuce, if it has the kind of flavor that I'm talking about, the spinach lettuce, you don't want to junk it up, man. It's like it is a meal unto itself.

43:18I am interested in what you just said about changing our relationship with salad because many would say, I would argue that we are in a boom of salads. if you walk around any major city college campus. Yes. Suburban areas. Yes. And 98 % of that boom is two varieties. That is the genetic diversity of saying like A to B. It's nothing. It's iceberg, which is 99.9 % water, and romaine lettuce, which is a little bit better photos in size, therefore a little bit better, but not much. You basically have things, as Bill said, with almost no nutrition, and I should know it because I bred them. And probably what you ate, your last salad, was probably bred by this guy at Monsanto.

44:02I mean, that's the concentration. And 95 % of those Romaine icebergs come from the salad bowl, the Salinas. That's, you know, Yuba in the winter is where salad comes from, and Salinas rest of the year. That's 95 % of our salad, two varieties. That is crazy cakes with no nutrition. We're shipping water around the world, around the country, but around the world too. And we have a nutrition crisis. Yeah, and it's mismarketed as actually being nutritious. Do you think the major - Well, it's fiber. So in that sense, it's probably better for you than a lot of other things. Well, yeah. But it could be so much more.

44:39I see what you're saying. Now, what about the major salad bar chains? Do they play a role in evangelizing this new romaine spinach hybrid? Yeah, I'm actually, you know, Sweetgreen is always ahead of this stuff. I'm talking to them now. They're always looking for innovative stuff like this. They're interested. I mean, also, it's not to point blame because the salad chain people who profit off of romaine and iceberg are also doing something great. I mean, there's something very healthy about the salad. So you can't go nuts. I appreciate that. You know, right? I mean, it's steps that you have to go in at the culture.

45:14It's steps, man. So row seven is going to do a spinach romaine is what I'm hearing. It's out. We have the seed now. It's out and there's some farmers growing it. On the East Coast, there's some farmers growing it. What's it sold under? What label? Spinach lettuce row seven at the farmer's market. Yeah. Go to the Unisquare Farmer's Market this fall in New York City and you'll get it. Good to know. Anywhere else? Norwich Meadows. It will be elsewhere very soon, next year. I'm excited to try this product and I'll definitely pick it up at the farmer's market. This has been really a great conversation.

45:46You're welcome back anytime. Thanks, man. For real, I think we just scratched the surface. It's a great way to start my weekend. I appreciate it. Monday morning as we speak. I still want to hear a little bit about the transition for the Blue Hill and the Village, which I loved going to. I went to a couple of your wasted dinners, which back in the day were very cool and certainly well ahead of the game. But after the pandemic, you switched the concept. It's now a prefix, right? It is, yeah, it's shared plates. Cool. And we did it coming out of COVID, you know, like, I didn't know what we were going to do.

46:24It seemed like going back to what we did, which was Blue Hill, New York is very similar to Stone Barns with one 15th of staff and one 15th of space. But they were using the same ingredients. I like, you know, I love Blue Hill, New York is where we started. But it was time for something new coming out of COVID. And it was really our management team that wanted to reopen it with something very informal and relaxed and shared plates. And it's what people wanted then. But it stuck because it's worked and it's great. It's a great. So what's the structure? You're paying X amount? Yeah, you play X amount.

46:59There's no, you know, there's one menu and it's executed for the whole dining room. And it changes quite a bit as well because our ingredients are always changing. but it's a convivial, the music a little louder. You know, it's a very relaxed way to get the kind of flavor and, you know, nutrition that we serve and I'm all for it. I love it. I dined at Blue Hill in 2004 and I just remember I was blown away the most yellow butter and lardo with bread. Nice. First time I ever had that in my life. Oh yeah? Yeah, first taste of that. It was 2004, I think. That was at Stoneburns or Blue Hill, New York?

47:36No, New York, downtown. Yeah. Yeah. Are you still doing two spreads with your bread there? We're doing, yeah, it depends on the season, but yeah, we try and mix it up. Yeah, Lardo's a good one. Dan, and this is Taste. We have guests and brother discerning taste that closes the interview. Here's a little rapid fire, fast and furious taste check. Are you ready? I'm sweating here. I'm like, what the fuck? Okay, go. This is good. The best fruit. Depends on the season. Well, let the - Right now, pawpaws are, you know, I mean, have you ever had a pawpaw? I have. I grew up 20 minutes from Pawpaw, Michigan.

48:06So it's a connection. Jesus. I nailed that one. That's you, man. A good pawpaw is like, you can't, you know, for those who don't know, it's, it's a, it's, it's a north. Well, it's actually northeast down. It goes down south to Virginia too. But it's, it's like a tropical cross of a mango papaya thing. It's, it's got acidity and sweetness. Acidity and sweetness. Exactly. Creaminess to it. Yep. That is, that is like no other, I mean, it's like no other fruit. But it was never brought into the big food chain for a lot of reasons. Very finicky and doesn't last long. It has a short season here. One of the best this time of year.

48:49I like a pear in the winter. Yeah, yeah. Good pear. I think pears are eaten too early around here. We eat them year-round. Yeah, well, that exactly. But people who eat locally eat them too early. You really wait until December, January. I agree. This, we ask all of our guests, the worst vegetable. And overcooked vegetable is the worst vegetable. I'll let you answer that way. Thank you. Because I feel running a vegetable company, you... If I had to like zero in it, I'd go, I wouldn't go to the actual vegetable class, like a brassica, you know, like a broccoli or kale. Really overcooked is just a disgrace.

49:23Yeah, I know. Because it's a disgrace of like what's possible, you know, and it like pisses me off. So overcooked kale would mean what exactly? Describe what that is. Actually, it depends on the variety of kale, but generally speaking, overcooked kale would mean either you haven't gone far enough. Like, you know, if you're going to overcook kale, you go all the way, you know, so that it really falls apart. It becomes sort of like a puree. And then, you know, and then the sugars are there that are there. And it's, I think it'd be very delicious. But it's sort of the, that, quickly cooked and thoughtfully and like not too much kale in the pan.

49:58A splash of acid, like vinegar. A splash of, I like sherry vinegar and kale. Me too, my guy, I love that. It's the best. Yeah. And that's great. That takes some concentration. But everything in between that two round, forget it. We, as home cooks, forget that there is this evil in between with vegetables and many things. And meats. Meats. Turkey. Thanksgiving turkey. Not that that's on anyone's mind right now, but Thanksgiving. I always say the dead zone is anything below 500 and anything above 260. I just, it's just 375, dead. It's dead. Dry and dead. Dry and dead. All right. the best dessert.

50:33I just had the best dessert from Nancy Silverton in Los Angeles. I won't, I'm not going to say it's the best dessert I ever had, but I tell you something, I'm just thinking like, I don't even know I can describe it. It was Tierra Masse. It was a reinterpretation of Tierra Masse. But it wasn't the dessert. It was Nancy. She came to the table. It's not, I really don't like going out to the table to die. And I've known Nancy Silverton for many, many, many, many years. I don't think she likes going out to the table either. And, but she came out and And what struck me about the dessert was her. It was the description.

51:08Why am I serving the dessert? What she said is, I go to L.A. every summer, and I try and learn one thing and take it back and work with it in L.A., you know, back when I'm in L.A. And this summer, she had just gotten back. I was just in L.A. She had just gotten back. And she said, this summer, I didn't find anything. I usually find it right away. I didn't find anything. And with the last night I was in Italy, a small little restaurant near where I was staying served me this reinterpreted Tierra Masue. And it blew my mind. And she talked about her relationship with Tierra Masue and her relationship with Italy.

51:45And it was so real and direct and unfiltered and beautiful. And I learned so much from it. I was like, this is what I should be doing more. It's like the story is everything. And so, see, I'm telling you it's my best dessert, but I don't even remember what the reinterpretation of Tiramisu was. It really hits the core of what you do at your restaurants, which is obviously serving exquisite cuisine that tastes great, but there's a lot more going on with the story. Yeah, well, I learned how to do it right. She did it right. The restaurant you are most excited to visit in the world. I'm most excited to visit restaurants where my former cooks are now chefs.

52:29And I've visited almost none of them. There's one in particular, Bastion Guillauchon opened a restaurant, Gamma, in southern France, that he was a chef at Blue Hill for me for many, many years. So I'm excited. Like, I'm just, all of them. Anyone who worked for me who now has their own place, you know, I think it's like, you know, It's like a father visiting their daughter's anything, going to see their daughter speak or going to see their daughter's work presented. I mean, it's just like it's got to be the most gratifying thing in the world. I can't wait to do that. And those shared meals when you walk into an alumni's restaurant and when they start cooking for you, that's got to be extremely special to have them hosting you in the restaurant.

53:17Yeah. I think in an earlier day, I would have been jealous or competitive. Today, I think I would actually enjoy it. You've matured with that thing. I like to think that. With that competitive thing. Well, I'm still very competitive. I know you are. But in this particular realm of former cooks, I feel only excitement. So that's my next venture. Set out to eat at as many former cooks. That's very cool. Yeah. Pretty fun little trip. Maybe film it. Maybe film it. Let's do it together. I love it. Your favorite cookbook of all time? I mean, Margaret Visser wrote this book called What's for Dinner. And it's not a cookbook, but it is.

53:56She took one meal and her whole book was talking about the meal from its historical, cultural, and agricultural perspective. And I thought it was the best cookbook ever written. And it really influenced my life. I read it when I was in my 20s. And I was like, that's such an interesting way to think about food. And that's what gastronomy is. It's everything. And we forget how rich that is or can be in the experience of food. So there wasn't a cookbook, but it was a book that really influenced me. Favorite city outside America to visit for food? I mean, you know, Paris. But I'll give you one that's not, you know, Fargo, North Dakota.

54:41It's not restaurants. it's just seeing agriculture out there. It is really interesting to understand our food system when you go to the Midwest, wherever it is. But I go to Fargo a lot because there are a lot of breeders at the University of - UND? North Dakota, yeah. North Dakota is incredible. I mean, there's a lot of sugar beets up there too for fuel. So there's that whole industry. Sugar beets, wheat, corn, soybeans. And you just, you're meeting, it's a whole world. And it is our food chain. And it's very interesting for me. But that's, what was the question? The question was your favorite city outside America to visit for food.

55:18But that is, I like to visit there because you see how people are thinking about real food production. It's not my shiv, but it's always, it's like, it is a graduate school thing in what's happening with food. I respect that. It's a great answer. Last one, your favorite sandwich. At this time of year, what's better than tomato matz? I don't know. Tomato matz. Bread choice. You know, I'm a whole wheat guy because that's a restaurant. We only do 100 % whole wheat. So I've been doing tomato matzah a lot for my kids on my Monday. Just like that's our dinner. And I've been really excited about eating some white bread, you know.

56:01Yeah. Why not? Because it's so delicious. Yeah. And I don't allow myself that in the restaurant. because I want the bakers to go for the ultimate. The ultimate is you keep the wheat seed whole and you manipulate it, but always intact because where all the flavor is really and all the nutrition, the thing is the sweetness isn't quite there. And so, you know, because you've got a lot of bran and that nutrition and sweetness, I think it's the most beautiful way to eat bread. But last night I made tomato moths. We love sugar as a culture in America. Yeah, yeah, my kids do too. And I do. Yeah, me too.

56:38Exactly. What about what's the condiment though on this sandwich dessert? Oh, well, like tomatoes. I douse them with some. Last night I did like a raspberry thing, raspberry vinegar, nice olive oil, basil, and really good matzah. And it's like, I don't know. What else is there? All right. I could eat that forever. Dan Barber, this has been such a treat. Thank you so much for joining us. Thank you, man. Nice to be here. Thank you.

57:07This is Taste is hosted by Eliza Abarbanel and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is produced by Shalia Harris and Pat Stango and edited by Clayton Gumbert. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Visit Taste online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all cool things that are happening.

From the publisher

Today’s interview is so great. Dan Barber is the chef and co-owner of Family Meal at Blue Hill in Manhattan and of the legendary Blue Hill at Stone Barns. He’s also the founder of Row 7 Seed Company, a seed company built by chefs, farmers, and breeders that is pushing the boundaries of modern agriculture. We talk about his Row 7 vegetables, including red Badger Flame beets and the semi-viral produce of the season, Sweet Garleek. We also discuss his day-to-day cooking at Stone Barns and how his aversion to tweezers has led to a philosophy that is both fresh and timeless. I so enjoyed catching up with Dan, and I hope you enjoy this conversation.
Do you enjoy This Is TASTE? Drop us a review on Apple, or star us on Spotify. We’d love to hear from you. 
MORE FROM DAN BARBER:

Dan Barber Feeds the Farm to His Customers [Restaurant Hospitality]

A New Nutrient-Dense Lettuce [Food & Wine]

Katz’s Deli Debuts a Vegan Pastrami Sandwich [NY Jewish Week]

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