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Podcast Episode Notes: This Is TASTE - Episode 488: There's a Bread Baker Inside All of Us with David Tamarkin
Episode Overview In this episode, hosts Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard interview David Tamarkin, the Editorial Director at King Arthur Baking Company. They discuss King Arthur's new book, The Big Book of Bread, along with exciting developments in the food world. The episode includes a segment called Three Things, where the hosts share interesting finds in restaurants and food products.
Key Themes & Discussions
Introduction to David Tamarkin
- Background: Former restaurant critic for Time Out Chicago, now the Editorial Director at King Arthur Baking Company.
- Friendship: The hosts express their longstanding friendship with David and admiration for his work.
The Big Book of Bread
- Content Overview: A comprehensive guide on various types of bread, aimed at both novice and experienced bakers.
- Structure: The book includes different sections, e.g., pan loaves, hearth loaves, flatbreads, and more.
- Focus: Emphasizes the art of bread baking and encourages home bakers to explore various styles.
Current Trends in Bread Baking
- Pandemic Influence: The popularity of sourdough baking has persisted beyond the pandemic, with renewed interest.
- Affordability: Many people are turning to baking bread at home to save money amid rising bakery prices.
- Trends: Google Trends indicate that interest in sourdough baking is higher now than during the pandemic.
Baking as a Rewarding Hobby
- Accessibility: Baking bread is highlighted as an easy and rewarding activity.
- Mindfulness: The practice is described as meditative, providing satisfaction as bakers continuously improve their skills.
Bread Baking Techniques
- Hydration: Discusses the importance of water in dough for gluten formation, affecting the texture of the bread.
- Kneading: Modern techniques often involve less kneading, using methods like folding to develop dough strength.
Community and Collaboration in Baking
- Expert Contributors: The book features recipes and insights from various expert bakers, expanding the breadth of knowledge.
- Generosity Among Bakers: David emphasizes the supportive community within the baking world.
Three Things Segment Highlights
- Le Veau d'Or: A restaurant report discussing a recent dining experience, focusing on classic French cuisine and the atmosphere.
- Bawi's New Flavor: A highlight of a new flavor offering from a beverage company, emphasizing natural ingredients and freshness.
- Fort Greene Dog Parade: A fun report from a local dog parade where a dog in a Babybel cheese costume won over the crowd.
Additional Notes
- Dayglow Coffee: Mention of exciting coffee drinks from Dayglow, a company known for its innovative cold coffee offerings.
- Erewhon Scene Report: A report on new product offerings at Erewhon, including new probiotic sodas and snacks.
Conclusion David Tamarkin’s insights into bread baking, alongside the lively discussions in the Three Things segment, make for an engaging episode filled with practical advice and a celebration of the food community. The episode serves as both a guide for aspiring bakers and a window into the current food culture.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. There are certain breads that are harder to make than others. And at the end of the process, you always have a loaf of bread. No matter how bad it is, you can usually at least make great toast out of it. So you're rewarded. But then you're also looking at something that we're like, oh, maybe if I did this again, I could get it this much higher or I could get the crumb this much more open. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbarg.
0:59Wow, we love David Tamarkin so much, and this is such a great interview. We're old friends, and I've been reading David since he worked at Time Out Chicago and Epicurious, and now he's the Editor-Director at King Arthur Baking Company. He returns to our studio to talk about the company's terrific new book, a real doorstop called The Big Book of Bread. As the title suggests, this is the Cooperative Flour Company's bread magnum opus, and we talk all about it with David. I hope you enjoy this conversation.
1:36David Tamarkin, welcome to This Is Taste. My friend, how are you? Thank you. I'm great. And it's my third time here. Three-timer club. Am I the only one? Are there like five-timers? You want to do that now? We can do, who are the five-timers? By this time, Priya Krishna will be a five-timer. Priya, of course. Yeah, I think Eric Kim's been on four, and Jamie Oliver's been on three. Okay, well, Jamie Oliver's the only one who deserves to be on more than me. Eric and Priya, I'm going to fight with you. But I'll get you a jacket soon in the mail, like the SNL$5. Yes, thank you. Now, let me ask you first, where are you dining out this summer in New York?
2:13I always like to ask. Yeah, I've had a few good meals. I've had a few bad meals, too. Ooh, let's go there first. Oh, really? What's bad? Naming names? Yeah, let's name names. Why not? Okay, yeah, I want to warn the New York public. Jelena. I went to the Jelena pop-up in this weird-ass building downtown. It was so expensive. It was terrible. It was so loud. The food was completely mediocre. And I left the spondent. Like, I cannot believe I spent this much money on such mediocrity. But then the next night, I went to a restaurant I love and have loved for many years. And it was just so consistently good.
2:52It's Hausman. you know downtown. Absolutely love that place. So I mean it's just so solid and you know everything's kind of more expensive but you know he's kept it like you know reasonable as always. So I love Hausman. I had a really good really fun like sloshing meal at Yellow Rose after seeing Justin Vivian Bond at Joe's Pub. That was really fun. So you had Marg's in the yellow cake I'm sure. Totally yeah. I love their cake. You know, and the quesadillas and just, you know, whatever. There's an Indian restaurant that I went to for a second time. You're going to know the name of it. I can't remember the name of it right now.
3:30It's in the Lower East Side in that market. Oh, Damaka. Yes. Damaka, man. Unreal. Goat testicle. Yeah. That was like one of the probably the best thing I've ever eaten. I mean, it was so good. Chin Tan is a real legend in the game now with Indian food in New York. I love his unapologetic foods. I think that, like, Masala Walla and Sons in Park Slope slept on. Absolutely slept on. I don't go to Brooklyn. Of course you don't. Of course you don't. And I'm glad you came to play with the restaurant picks because, David, I'm going to ask you as kind of a follow-up. You know, you served as a restaurant critic for many years in Chicago at Time Out Chicago.
4:13And Time Out Chicago was one of the top two or three publications in the city reviewing restaurants. You and Julia Kramer and a cast of others, just terrific critics. And I want to ask you about that time. I just like, let's go back. What was it like reviewing in that city? Now, a city that we know more of because of The Bear and other shows. It feels like its popularity has risen to a crazy level. Yeah. And, you know, I've never seen a single episode of The Bear because I feel a little, I'm not scarred by it. I had a really great time doing that. But I was like, I think I know this already. I don't know if I need to watch this or go back there.
4:51It was an incredible time to be a restaurant critic in Chicago. What are the years? I was reviewing from about 2005 to 2013. And 2005 was when Alinea opened. One of my first restaurants I went to as a critic, there was Alinea. There was a restaurant called Moto, which was Amaro Conte's restaurant. Graham Elliott Bulls, who I don't know what his name is now. Graham Elliott or Graham Bulls. I forget. He's short in his name. But he cut out the bulls. He cut out the bulls. Is that what he cut out? Yeah. He was at the peninsula doing some really interesting things at avenues. And so it was a real molecular astronomy moment in America.
5:30And Chicago was the hotbed. And so it was just a very exciting time. It was great. I mean, there's a lot of machismo and a lot of defensiveness in the Chicago restaurant chef community that I didn't. Love. But that might be everywhere, too. I just know Chicago best. I've never been a critic anywhere else. Did a little bit here in New York a long time ago. Well before time. Well before. Yeah, I mean, machismo's everywhere. I'm so old. We're old. We're a little in the middle to older, like later innings of our, middle innings, middle innings of our careers. I love these memories of Chicago in the early 2000s.
6:10I just actually watched the Charlie Trotter documentary, which is so fucking triggering. in ways for not me, but I'm sure for many. And I highly recommend it, but trigger warning. What a crazy man. What did it trigger for you? I was actually just projecting a trigger warning, I guess I was trying to say. I mean, for me, it was like, I just did, that's a type of chef, that toxicity and that overt machismo and overt just yelling that has now been portrayed on this famous show. So it was obvious, you know, in his kitchens. And then his downfall was just like kind of sad. It was sad. And I wrote a story about him.
6:59And when it was clear that he was no longer at the top of, you know, Chicago dining. Yeah. And he was really struggling with that. And I don't know if it was a dick move or this is the way journalism is. You know, like I approached his team and said I wanted to do a profile about him. and he said, only if I get the cover. And I'm thinking, are you sure? Because like, I mean, I had a thesis for the piece, which I had not been borne out yet. I had to do the reporting, of course. But, you know, the reason I was interested in doing the profile is because, you know, Grant Atkins was at the top, you know, and all of his protégés, basically, they had all worked for him.
7:31And so you give him, you know, so much credit for making Chicago what it was. Obviously, he had a huge role in that. But, you know, the defensiveness coming out of that building, that beautiful sort of house in Lincoln Park, was palpable. You could walk by it and you could feel the bitterness coming out of it. So that's why I wanted to write the story and he demanded the cover. I was like, okay. The cover story was he was holding this knife and staring at the camera like real mean like all chefs like to do. I always like to look so mean. I know. They're going to beat you up in an alley. Right.
8:03Like they're in Kitchen Stadium or something like they're trying to be tough. Yes. Right. Totally that's what it was of that era. And it was like has Trotter lost his edge? Wow. With holding a knife? Yeah. Laying on the puns there. I know, I know. He was not happy. It was sad, though. I mean, like, I think I wrote a balanced piece, and it was hard to see him go through that. But I'm saying that because I got a lot of flack for that piece. But I haven't seen this documentary, but I've seen that it's called The Rise and Fall. And so, like, okay, so now we're admitting that there was a rise and fall.
8:40But when I wrote that piece, I kind of got a lot of flack. Like, oh, no, he's still on top, dude. Don't do that to him. Well, I mean, I think historically speaking, you've been proven correct in your assessment of losing his edge because in the documentary, which is now on Netflix, so it's available everywhere, which is cool. I do highly recommend it, though, trigger warning. He didn't catch up to molecular gastronomy. Atkins was one of his protégés. They had a bitter divorce in some sense. Alinea stole all the headlines. and Trotter, you know, hearkening back to its, you know, French Nouvelle kind of roots, never quite understood that there was a changing wave of interest, like food and restaurant cooking.
9:19And hospitality. Yeah. He just dug in. He dug into what he had been doing and he didn't evolve. Yeah. When you reviewed Alinea as like one of your early reviews, which is a classic, like I'm new in town, I need to go to like one of the big restaurants. It's a great idea for a new critic, and the Times will be getting one soon, to go after some of the big guys. What was that like, writing about this kind of new culinary movement? Were you excited genuinely about what was happening there? Yeah, I was excited. And to be clear, the reason it was my first piece was because it just happened to be the restaurant.
9:56It opened the week the magazine launched. No way. It wasn't that like, yeah, so it was the new restaurant. Wild. Or it didn't, you know, so we waited a few weeks, of course, to go. I was thoroughly entertained. I mean, I really thought that it was a great show and a great experience. And the food was good. Modo, that's what it was, Amaro's Place. The food wasn't as interesting, but the spectacle was really fun. And it was, and, you know, people criticized it for being sort of circus-like. Flavor tripping. Remember that back in the day? Because you take the little blue pill or whatever it was. The berries.
10:28They were literally, take a pill and your taste buds explode. I remember going to a meal there or here in New York and having that flavor dripping experience. Yeah. Kind of cool, actually. Yeah. I mean, I thought it was cool. Yeah. And I had lots of, you know, there was lots of robust conversation with my fellow critics at Time Out because, you know, when I started, I was working with this woman named Heather Shouse who was very much like, this is all smoke and mirrors. This is all, you know, this is all bullshit. Like, we're not going to fall for these, like, tricks. But my feeling was like, okay, a regular consumer, you know, you're coming in from Cincinnati, Ohio to Chicago for the weekend.
11:04You go to Moto. The food's going to be good. Maybe it's not like the best food you've ever eaten. But like the sort of magic tricks and everything, it's really entertaining. It's really fun. I don't know. I thought it was sort of charming. It obviously had its peak and then faded away, which I think is appropriate. I'm glad we do not eat like that anymore. I know that whole thing where Grant paints on the table and you're scraping this food off the table. It's kind of gross. But at the time, it was fun. So I'm glad we had that moment. Did you know that Next is doing a Trotter tribute as their next quarter?
11:39We're recording this in late August. No. In fact, I didn't even know Next was still around. Next is still a thing, and they're doing a Trotter tribute, which is cool. So I kind of want to go check that out. I've never been to Next, but I feel like I want to go and see this charter tribute after watching the film. We went long on Chicago, but it's such an important city. And you had just all the all the work you did there covering it. Can you can you actually read the reviews anymore? Like die like one of those Internet deaths? Oh, I don't. I think they might be available, but they're like all formatted, all weird.
12:11Yeah. For some reason, like there's no punctuation in them anymore. Oh, that's fun. I love that when they take away all the commas. Yeah. Well, let's actually fast forward to the current time. You know, you've served roles at Epicurious and Bon Appetit and many editorial outlets. But you're currently, and you've held this position for three and a half years, you're the editorial director at King Arthur Baking Company. And I, when you made that move, I was like, wow, that's interesting. It's got to have a lot of like open-ended questions. You're now settled in and just terrific work. I love going to the website of King Arthur and seeing all the recipes, seeing the social content.
12:52What is your job? What do you do? Yeah, people are often like, why does a flower company have an editorial director? But I think King Arthur sits at this interesting place where, you know, we're a CPG company. Obviously, we make flower and that is our bread and butter, so to speak. And we have a school, a couple of schools in Vermont and one in Seattle. and increasingly more retail. But, you know, anyway, but I also think we're a media company because, you know, as you mentioned, I've worked at some pretty big recipe sites and I know the traffic and I know King Arthur's traffic. I know that we compete.
13:32So I know that I consider us to be a real player in the food media space, in the recipe space particularly, and in the baking education space. So my team covers, does all of it. We, you know, it's the test kitchen that does recipes, the blog. We have a robust YouTube channel. And then books. We have a huge book program. Yeah, we'll get to that. And school. And we help produce the on-demand baking school classes. Very cool. So you've got two physical spaces, one in Vermont where you're based and one in Seattle, but you also do VOD. How does that work exactly? I love that you're doing baking schools.
14:09You just kind of pay a fee and then you get the video shot back at you? yeah the the on-demand yeah it's like and it's like a master class style cool class and um you know this place in vermont king arthur has like just some of the best bakers in the country just in this small town white river junction vermont and so it's really about like getting that talent to you you know if you can't come to us you know you not everybody can like you us here in new york it's pretty easy to get there but if you're like you know you're in the chicago or you're on the West Coast. It's a trip. You know, I get it.
14:41So we wanted to bring all those experts to you. I really love that. First, shout out to Tatiana Batista, my former colleague, editor at Taste. You hired her several years ago. I've been I've been catching her on social. Shout out to Tatiana. She's incredible. She's I mean, she and she just came to my class. She came to talk to my NYU class at the very last class. I love that. And somebody she just got promoted, actually. And one of my students applied for a job because They were so inspired by Tatiana. She's an inspiring person. And I obviously you you have a great employee there. So and thank you.
15:17Shout out to Tatiana. Let's talk about bread. I guess first I want to simply ask you, you know, what are the desires of the bread baker in 2024? We've definitely covered it on the show and on the in the pages of taste. this kind of trajectory from the pandemic and the sour bros and this flour shortages. And there's been some real ups and downs. But this is like, let's check in right now with bread baking. What are you seeing? Yeah, I think the important thing to know about bread baking is that it has not stopped since the pandemic. And in fact, if you look at Google Trends, and I think maybe Taste reported on this a few months ago, like in January this year, sourdough baking was actually bigger than it was during the pandemic.
16:00You saw that in many places. We saw that in our sales of sourdough starters. But also you could just see that basically on Google Trends in terms of what people were searching and the recipes they were looking for. And just the vibes. You know, that's what, you know, people were just posting their sourdough loves again. And it was sort of striking. What people are looking for is they're looking for affordable bread. And often that means making it at home. I, you know, I'm a bakery hound. You know, I love bakeries and I'm like, you know, elbow bread. Zoe Cannon, when are you opening, right? And I will support my bakeries whenever.
16:35But a loaf of sourdough bread is$10 to$12 now here in New York City, which is really expensive. And so people are baking at home to, you know, offset some of that cost. And they're doing it just because, you know, the hobby's stuck. You know, it is a very sticky hobby. You know, again, no pun intended. I think it's a little stickier in the winter. We've seen a little dip, you know, which is seasonal over the summer. People travel. I think we see it with all sorts of things with food. Like in the summer months, people are just not focusing on as much going on a vacation. Yeah. And I don't want to put my oven on 500 degrees in the summer, especially this summer.
17:08So anyway, bottom line, it never went away. And I think that we have a new generation of bread bakers that will keep on baking for the foreseeable future. Let me ask you, generally speaking, when you crunch the numbers, have you thought about how much does it actually cost to make a loaf of bread DIY style? Like, have you thought about that? I haven't run the numbers on that, so I don't want to speculate. I know it varies, obviously, by some raw ingredients, but you're selling King Arthur flour. Yeah. I think in King Arthur flour, like, obviously, where you go, where you get it. Yeah. Is it, like, under a dollar?
17:44Is it, like, under a dollar? It's got to be, like, under a dollar if you're— I'd say it's under—probably definitely under$2. Of course, it depends on the bread you're making. If you're making challah and you've got some eggs in there, you're making brioche and butter, then obviously your price is going to go up. but if you're making flour water salt yeast bread yeah then i think two dollars for sure you think about it that way which i think we're all feeling it at the grocery store and at the bakery prices are really going up and you really it gives you a lot of thought like man and especially for folks with families who who who go through several loaves of bread a week it definitely adds up let me ask you for those who haven't ever attempted to bake a bread um any how big bread, maybe a sandwich bread or a challah or a sourdough.
18:29Let me ask you about the actual bread baking routine. You call it sticky, which I think is very cool because it's obviously a habit that you can pick up. But for those who've never tried it, how actually, how easy is it to actually bake bread? It's extremely easy. And once you get into it, you sort of, you know, you can sort of wrap your day around it. The time spent actually doing work at your counter when you're making a loaf of bread is 10 minutes tops, 15 minutes tops. I mean, I think people may still have this idea that you're kneading, you know, dough on a counter and you're getting your hands all messy and there's like dough flying everywhere.
19:11And that, you know, you can certainly make bread that way, but that is a very old-fashioned way of making bread. And most of the breads that we, you know, talk about at King Arthur are, you know develop uh strength by a series of folds and time which is another way of saying it's very hands-off and you just come in and you do 30 seconds of folding and you let it rest for 30 minutes and you come back and you do it again and then you know soon enough you have bread so it's very easy uh yeah i would say it's very easy and it gets very uh you know this word is and it's a sensitive word that i'm about to say but i do think it gets a little well i'll just say habit forming.
19:46You know, it's, you know, you start to, you know, crave your bread, you know, and you start to, I, it's very hard for me. I sometimes have to remind myself that I can go to the grocery store to get bread. When I don't have bread in my house, I think I have to make bread. Like, that's the only, as if that's the only way to get it. I'm fascinated by this because I wanted to ask you as a follow-up, what do bread bakers get out of this bread practice? For those who've never really done it because I totally see it that it's a habit loop you know going back to that whole like feedback loop thing baking bread gives you a lot of stimulation and it gives you a lot of like there's a lot there's something about the practice that um you could call it mindfulness you could call it something else but like there's something about it that people get addicted to and that's the word I was gonna use addicted um you know I think it's a it's a challenge like so I just went on a whole spiel about how bread is not hard to make and it's not hard to make but But it's hard.
20:45But you can always do better. And there are certain breads that are harder to make than others. And at the end of the process, you always have a loaf of bread. No matter how bad it is, you can usually at least make great toast out of it. So you're rewarded. But then you're also looking at something where, like, oh, maybe if I did this again, I could get it this much higher. Or I could get the crumb this much more open. Or maybe I should put, like, some cheese into this time or some whatever. Some nuts, seeds, whatever. And so I think it appeals to people who are ambitious. I think it appeals to people who just really like to challenge themselves.
21:19I think it appeals to runners. I think it appeals to artists, to writers. You know, I sit down and, you know, do my daily pages or whatever. And I'm constantly trying to, I'm only doing it just to get better, right? The difference is at the end of the day, like, I have something that I may never want to look at again. As opposed to when I bake bread, at least I have something I can, like, eat. I can make a sandwich out of it. French toast, right. So there's something very rewarding. and sort of almost immediately gratifying about it. Sort of like the runner's high, I guess. But I think it appeals to that type of person, the person who likes to self-challenge and wants to get better and also likes immediate gratification and likes carbs.
21:56I mean, at the end of the day, it's also you have to love eating bread, which I... Yeah, you have to love what goes along with bread, which is like great sandwiches, French toast, croquette madame. We could actually just name like 100 bread recipes, pensanella. We could just do that. But listener, you probably don't want to hear that. What you do want to hear is a little bit about your new book, King Arthur, Big Book of Bread. I've been able to preview it. It's terrific. It's very detailed. It has a lot of recipes. First question, where does a new bread baker start in terms of recipes from this book?
22:32I think they start in the pan loaf section. Yep. So there are six chapters in this book. but there's pan loaves, hearth loaves which are like your sourdough loaves and crusty loaves flatbreads what we call fancy breads which is one of those moments where I was like oh no this is just a TK name like we're not actually calling this chapter fancy breads and then all of a sudden you have the gallery of the book down and I'm like wait we're actually calling this fancy breads things to make with bread we have a whole section about as we were saying what do you do with all this bread now that you're a bread maker and I think there's a chapter in there I forgot Buns?
23:07Oh, yeah, like bagels, buns and rolls. Yeah, yeah. Thank you. But I would start with the pan loaves. And in fact, in our bread research, we're seeing that that is the majority of the bread that's being made now. You know, it's actually not sourdough. Sourdough is number three. But in the kind of bread boom we're in, a lot of people are making sourdough. Well, they're making pan loaves. They may be sourdough pan loaves or they may just be yeast risen. But they're really very utilitarian, very easy, very quick to make things that are great for sandwiches and toast. I think of a pan loaf, like a pan pizza, where there has a little bit of more margin of error and you have a vessel, obviously, to shape it.
23:42So you're not really worrying about any kind of free form baking. Right. One thousand percent. Yeah. Yeah. And so when you're making sandwich bread, what do you have to think about? And I know this is a broad question. Apologize. But I just I'm like thinking of myself. I've not made a pan loaf in like 10 years. I'm not really a bread guy, but I'd like to become one. What do you have to keep in mind? I think the number one thing you want to keep in mind is that don't put it in the oven too soon. Let that sucker rise. Because you have the structure of the pan, like you mentioned, you want to see that there's much less chance that your dough is going to fall.
24:22So you don't need to worry as much about overproofing. So you can just let it go. And you want it to rise at least an inch above the pan in the center of the loaf. and that will get you a really nice, you know, a nice structure. Sometimes I think a lot of people make pan loaves and they get worried that it's going to overproof and they put it in the oven too soon and it comes out a little dense. Again, it's still going to be really good, totally edible. I've eaten plenty of underproof loaves in my time, but I think the number one thing is just be a little patient and let it rise. Where does the bread machine come into your calculus?
24:53So I don't have a bread machine, but I think bread machines are still hot. The Zojurushi bread machine in particular is a really great machine. And it really helps in terms of mixing. It's just a very efficient bread mixer. And so a lot of bread makers will use it to do the mix and then take it out and maybe do their final shaping on the bench. Or, you know, they won't necessarily bake the bread and the Zosirushi. But they, you totally can. I mean, it's a totally great machine. And Lucas Volger, our friend Lucas Volger, is writing a book right now, I think maybe for PRH, about, you know, bread machines.
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25:30and he just wrote a blog for us. Oh, nice. Yeah, there's a bread machine book out this fall as well. So I think it seems like there's definitely a resurgence perhaps. I think it is his. Anyway, so yeah, there is a resurgence. You know, this thing has never left. It's a, I don't know, New York City, how many people have them? I mean, it's a hulk of a machine. It's a big machine, but I think if you need, you don't have like a big oven space or you don't even have an oven, you can, bread machine seems like the perfect solution. And with sticky doughs, you know, enriched doughs, like, I don't like, I have a thing.
26:01I don't know what you call it, but I really don't like touching it. I don't like anything sticky. You got to check out that podcast, Ologies. Okay, so I have an ology. They probably can sort it out, what that means. So the bread machine, I should have one because it'll just mix all the sticky doughs for me. Speaking of sticky doughs, we hear about the term hydration quite a bit. And let our listeners know, what does it mean exactly? And you had mentioned earlier how starting with a lower hydration bread is maybe great for beginners. But talk us through a little bit of what that word means. Hydration just refers to the amount of water in your dough.
26:38Hydration can come from water or anything that is mostly water, like juice or milk. But things like oil, eggs, that doesn't count. It's really the things that are water, mostly water. And you basically can't have gluten formation without water. You know, when the gluten in flour mixes with water, that's when everything starts to spark and come together. And you need a strong gluten network to trap the gases of fermentation. Basically, what I'm saying is you need strong gluten in order for your bread to rise. No, you said it really well. So a 45, 50, 60 percent hydration dough, which some pan loaves are, is going to feel really nice and tacky, but not sticky in your hand.
27:22You know, like it's going to feel like the other side of a sticky note, you know, a post-it note. Yeah. You know, where nothing's going to come off. You're going to be able to shape it really nicely. A dough that's 75, 80, 90, 100, and you can have 110 percent, 150 percent. I love that idea of like over 100 % hydration. Those doughs are going to be like soup in the beginning before they start fermenting. I mean, it's going to be a big challenge to shape and to mix. And so you either want to use a mixer or you want to be a pro or just give it time because over time with fermentation, things get less sticky and more manageable.
27:59But yeah, does that answer the question for you? Absolutely, David. You really answered it well. So I have another question about the book. You have a lot of voices from the outside coming in. And I like that about King Arthur brings in all sorts of bread bakers from around the world of food. Let's talk about a few of the contributors in the book. Okay, sure. Can I talk about the main contributors of the book, the writers of the book? Because I'm not a writer on this book. The writers are Jessica Batalana, Martin Phillip, and Melanie Wanders. Some of the best writers and bakers in the country.
28:30You know, Martin's one of the best bread bakers in the country. Melanie is one of the best pastry chefs and now Brett Baker's in the country. Jessica, of course. I don't think she's been on the show, but she's long overdue. She's, you know, the author of Repertoire and she's an editor with me at King Arthur. Yeah. Brilliant team. And a contributor of Taste, I believe, in the early days. She's writing everywhere. You know, sometimes I see her byline. I'm like, oh, she's writing for The Times? Yeah. So an amazing team. And yes, but, you know, it's a team that doesn't have expertise, you know, of every single global bread.
28:59So we brought in people like Hedy McKinnon. And, you know, we brought in people. I think Betty Lou is in there. So, you know, just to bring in some of the global breads that we didn't feel that we necessarily had the expertise in-house to, you know, put in the book. The point of the book really was to, you know, be as comprehensive as possible without being like a six-volume, you know, thing. Something with Lab in the title or something. Right, right, right. So I wasn't thinking about that. With Modernist in the title. You know, and I, well, it was important to me to put out a book that was not only sourdough.
29:31So many of the bread books that have come out in the past few years, including some really incredible ones like Maurizio's book. Perfect Love. Perfect Love. It's a great book. You know, I'm a huge fan of Tara Jensen. Yeah. I think her book is so fun. Flower Power. Yep. But those books are very, they are exclusively sourdough. And there's a whole world of baking outside of sourdough, just as there's a whole world of baking outside of European, you know, Western civilization baking. I mean, there's just so much exciting stuff. So there's like an incredible sesame bing in this book. There are some steamed buns.
30:08There's a bunch of in the Flatbreads chapter, just so many wonderful things. I love it. Do you have QR codes in the book? I do have. Yes, I. We do have. I mean, I know you're not the primary author. I am King Arthur. I love QR codes in cookbooks, particularly for technique-driven cookbooks, which bread baking is. So it's chock full of QRs. It points back to your great content. And there's so many recipes. It's exhaustive in a great way, not exhausting. And I highly recommend picking it up. And thanks for shouting out those other books too, Flour Power and The Perfect Loaf. You can't just have one bread book, right?
30:42Well, you can now because our book, I mean, but you can throw them all away. You took it, David, and you ran with it. No, I mean, these are people that are in our orbit that we use all the time. You know, Maritio, Tara, they've been in our blog on our YouTube channel. We really want to create like, you know what was really cool, Matt, was when we went to go to get the blurbs for this book. Reaching out to people like Dan Leder, Ken Forkish, Claire, they all were like so excited to do it. And I think that speaks to the community of bakers, one thing. You know, I think bakers are just by nature generous people.
31:15Yeah. and we do a lot to support other people's books we're always you know you know throwing people like flower or tools to put in their media kits or like support an event or something um and also just yeah these books are these books are incredible so i think you're right not there is no reason why you should only have one bread book there's so many different ways to do things which is a real challenge when you're writing a bread book because yeah you really have to decide one way because otherwise you're going to confuse people but if you have the whole breadth of If you haven't reached the O, you have King Arthur's stuff, you have Forkish, you're going to get a very wide range of, oh, Dan Leder too.
31:49Dan Leder is another great, generous guy. And I love his books. So you get all these people together. You have them on your bookshelf. You have a very good view of all the different ways to do things. David, on This is Taste, we ask guests about their discerning taste. So to close this interview, here's a little rapid fire, Fast and Furious taste check. Are you ready? I'm ready. All right. The best fruit? Apples. Apples were not my favorite food until I started spending more time in Vermont. Vermont apples kill. They're so good. And now I can't eat any other apple. But Vermont apples is really my answer.
32:19Okay. I think Vermont is like number four for me. Number three is New York State. Number two is California. And number one is West Michigan. Okay. I mean Midwest. West Michigan apples. I'll give you that. Maybe not California. Very surprised by California. I think like Washington actually. Sorry. Washington. I kind of missed on that one. California Washington we're kind of the same yeah it's all the same all the same no it's not not the same just kidding the worst vegetable bananas I know it's not a vegetable but any but I just can't I mean I totally didn't answer the question I hate I hate bananas so much that even when I just think produce you say worst vegetable I just think banana like it's just I mean bananas are just the worst just the worst thing with the worst thing that was ever created um I couldn't I really I don't know I I love I truly love all vegetables I'm not a huge fan of okra yeah okra can be but I'm not gonna say it's the worst vegetable no but bananas back to that you know Rene Rizepi and Matt Golding just did Omnivore it's a great show on Apple TV plus and one of the episodes is about bananas that's disgusting I'm never gonna watch oh my god David you gotta check it out no I truly would I would I would hurl like I would I would not be able to watch that I can't be I can't be in a room you know what my worst nightmare that's an ology right there that's definitely an ology and people have that's it's not an uncommon one but you know when you're on the subway like the worst or on a plane and then someone next to you is eating a banana like it is it's the worst thing for me i honestly start to panic like what am i going to do if this person opens this banana which they ultimately do and then sometimes people eat half a banana and leave it somewhere or they're just holding or they're just holding now they're just holding an empty banana peel on their lap they put it in back into their bag i mean it is They put it in the seat back pocket on a plane.
34:05Oh. That's tough. You know what really bothers me about bananas? When people cut them in half the knife and then they give them out as halves. Something about that skews me out. Wait, what do you mean? Like at a party or something? I don't know. Like at a 5K? At the end of a 5K? I just like, it's kind of like, I don't want half of this banana that I'm going to eat as exposed to like the box. Anyways. I mean, the minute you cut it, it's oxidized. It's brown. You just sold me up eating on bananas. Thank you. What if I want? Let's go on the posse side. The best dessert. I think blueberry pie is really high up there.
34:38I think rhubarb pie, like 100 % rhubarb pie. I think pie is the best dessert. Fleeting season on rhubarb. Blueberry also fleeting season. So you're like one of those like select VIP pies that only happens like three weeks out of the year. Yeah. And then I'll go with, then in the winter you can do apple pie, cream pie. But yeah, I think the rhubarb and the blueberry pies are better. Pie over cake then. yeah fair alright your favorite American fast food chain Wendy's haven't had it in a long time never has been mentioned on this show really no one's mentioned Wendy's square hamburgers bro that's what makes it good really I don't know I mean first of all it's Ohio I'm from Ohio I think Wendy's was an Ohio thing yeah I think Dave Dave Dave Thomas Dave Thomas yeah but he was like really into adoption yeah And I thought that was cool.
35:32I don't know. Dave Thomas, like peaks and valleys of Dave Thomas. Man's a gentleman of multitudes. Yeah, like Wendy was adopted. Okay. And now I'm adopting it as my favorite. I love that one. I don't know. I just have, I haven't eaten Wendy's in a long time, but I remember going in high school a lot. And I don't know. I just thought it was made to order, I thought was the thing. Or was that Burger King? Definitely Burger King. Maybe Wendy's. but do you remember the super bar? I was going to say, the salad bar, right. It wasn't just a salad bar, my friend. It was the super bar. Yeah, the super salad bar.
36:07Yeah, the super bar. Three tiers of bar, salad in the middle, and then it had Italian bar, and then it had Mexican taco bar. So for like$4.99 in like 1992, you could go to a Wendy's and fill up your plate with salad and with rigatoni something, and then definitely like a bean burrito. Sounds great, right? Yeah, and so why is it not the best fast food? I mean, you're making the case for me. Fair enough. I just want to say that when the Superbar started, I thought, you know, I don't know how old we were when that started, 13 maybe? 13, 11, 10. And I thought, oh, like the Wendy's I go to is like the best Wendy's.
36:47Like we're the one with the Superbar. I was like, there's absolutely no way that they have this in every Wendy's now across the country. It was like a catastrophic failure. And someone in media needs to pick it up into an oral history of the super bar. Just saying. Your favorite cookbook of all time? I think it's six seasons. That's amazing. I think, I don't think there's, I mean, there's no book that I go back to again and again and again more than that book. I think the concept of that book is just brilliant. I think the design is gorgeous. Every single recipe works. Not only does it work, it's absolutely delicious.
37:21I don't know. I just think, I just really love that book. It's amazing that you bring that up. I was just talking to you about it with an author who cites it in her book as such an influential work. Joshua McFadden did this book like eight years ago, and it's become canon. Yeah, I think immediately it was canon. And so I think it's obviously props to McFadden, but also to Martha Holmberg, who was a co-writer. I think she did a lot to help shape that book. I'd like to thank Martha Holmberg as well for working with Joshua and making that one of the most iconic books of a generation. A favorite recent cookbook discovery?
38:02Like a new cookbook? Yeah, something that's crossed your wire, something that you've hit a PDF, hit you. Oh, yeah, yeah. You know what? The Kismet book from L.A. I've actually been cooking from that. I don't know how much buzz it's getting. I get the sense it's maybe not getting out there very much. You know, on the surface, it didn't look like particularly new. Like it didn't look like there was much new stuff in there because we've had a lot of these Mediterranean books come out. There's a lot of, you know, but I love those restaurants in L.A. And I don't know. I thought there was some interesting ideas.
38:41And I've been cooking from it. The Sarah's are great. And that book is getting buzzed. We published it here at Clarkson Potter. And it's a really terrific book from this past spring. so I'm glad you brought that one up. Yeah. I remember when I moved back to New York, I don't know, about 10 years ago, I think one of the servers was still at Glasserie, and my apartment was, like, right down the street from Glasserie. So I have warm feelings about her and just what she can do. That was a really short-lived but amazing restaurant. I got to go one time. That was, like, your local. That's cool. Yeah, it was great.
39:11A cuisine you would like to learn more about? It's always Chinese food. So I grew up in Ohio, in Cincinnati, Ohio, not a very strong Chinese restaurant culture. Yeah. And I grew up with the misunderstanding that Chinese food was orange chicken, lemon chicken, you know, whatever. Americanized Chinese food. Yeah, which I love that stuff, but I really regret that I kind of came up in a culture that I just didn't, you know, this incredible cuisine that's so vast and so varied, so delicious, and that deficit has just stayed with me my entire life. I feel like I can't catch up. So I'm always feeling like that's the one I need to learn more about.
39:53I love that answer. Last one, your favorite sandwich. Chicken parm sandwich? I always thought you'd go plant-based for some reason. I don't know why. So you regret the decision. I mean, I do, I could go, I could definitely go also go old school, like California sandwich, like the avocado and the sprouts. I'm not going to pull you, my man. No, but that is also true. The truth is that falafel, is that considered a falafel? Sandwich and pita? It's on the buffer, on the fringe. I can honestly tell you the only thing I ever want to eat is a sandwich. Love it. It's all sandwiches except beef. And, of course, with some fresh-baked bread that you bake yourself.
40:28Right. I would love it. Always. David DeMarcon, what a pleasure. Thank you so much for joining This Is Taste. Thank you.
40:43Hey, Eliza, we're back with three things. I'm so excited. What's your first thing? I went to Laveau d 'Or for like a birthday dinner with me and two friends who both had birthdays around this time of year. And I really loved it. Have you been? I haven't been. Tell me all about it. I'm really curious. There's been a lot of hype around it, I think for good reason. Some facts about the restaurant. It was established in 1937 and then it was reopened, I think, this fall by the guys from Frenchette and La Roque, chefs Riyad Nasser and Lee Hansen. And it's a set menu, only 50 seats in the restaurant.
41:17So it's kind of a hard reservation to get, which meant that we did have a 5 p.m. dinner on the Upper East Side, which felt very fitting, honestly. And I love it. You pick an appetizer, an entree, and a dessert per person. And then everyone gets salad course as well after the entree. And it was really fun. It's very classic French food. We got pomme souffle with caviar. But they were very – it was also like a potato chip, like a giant puffed hollow potato chip that's perfect for the creme fraiche and the caviar. we got pâté and crut, steak au poivre with frites, etc. Avec frites. Avec frites, yeah.
41:51This is exactly what it sounds like when I was in Paris. But it was really great. And it was a very interesting mix of people who are maybe love on the Upper East Side or working over there. Kind of a fun dining room to be in. It's cool that you went there and I was going to ask you about the scene check, but it sounds like it's very Upper East Side with, you know, some food fans. Because these chefs have run some of our most popular and acclaimed restaurants in the past decade. Yeah, I think everything was really beautiful. If I was going to be picky, I would say the desserts were kind of a disappointment after everything else.
42:22Like really the appetizer and entree were beautiful dishes, very delicious, composed really well. And I think the desserts just kind of weren't quite there, which was a bit of a disappointment, especially because I was with Tanya, who takes dessert very seriously. But I really liked it and I would definitely go back. What's your first thing? My first thing is I've mentioned it briefly, but Bowie has a new flavor and it rolls pink guava, la guayaba. Bowie's is aqua fresca company that is based in Austin, Texas, founded by Victor Guardiola and Jordan Hicks. And I have been crushing these cans. It's probably my favorite flavor yet.
43:02You know, Bowie has a really cool concept. They're doing aqua fresca, but they're trying to, you know, they're keeping it like 40 calories per can. And with that, it's all naturally sweetened. And I love the way it's like sour in the right way for a commercial product. It's almost like these are fresh juices that we've concocted or we've put in our own dilution. And I just love the way I love the branding as well. But I love the way that they are bringing these flavors to the mainstream. I love their passion fruit as well. Have you tried any of these products, Bowie? No, I've had the watermelon one before.
43:36Or, you know, you turned me on to them. And then when I wrote that article for Taste last year about like the apex of peak beverage, peak beverage. Thank you. I'm like, why can't I remember my own headline? When I wrote that peak beverage story, they were one of the brands that I talked to because I thought they were doing a really interesting thing of having kind of cultural beverages that have a little bit of a spin on them. And they also had just gotten a big sprouts distribution at the time. So I think they're kind of reaching a point where they should be easier to find. Yeah, I think so. I've only found them at like small shoppy shops and I wish they would be at like ShopRite.
44:09That would be cool. But, you know, great things come from Bowie. And I just love that. I'd love to have the founders on the show. What's your next thing? My next thing is I went to a really great pop up on Sunday. It was from ZNZ, which is a DC based, like Palestinian Jordanian family run Manoush Bakery and Zaatar Company. I've been following them online for a while, wanting to try their stuff. And luckily, my friends Arsh and Noreen brought them out here to New York to do a pop-up at Huda in Williamsburg to kind of feed the community and also raise money for two mutual aides in Lebanon and Gaza.
44:42They were doing this, you know, traditional Manoush flatbread on the saj, which is the big domed kind of grill, I guess, just straight up on the sidewalk. And they had maybe like 15 members of their family there, including like sister-in-law from Jersey working the cash register, dad and like three of the sons behind the kind of bar area where they were making everything. It was just really delicious. I think my favorite one was called the Tomb Raider, which has the tomb drizzled over the flatbread with, you know, za 'atar and cucumber and tomato on top. And I also was talking to my friend Noreen, who did the dessert there.
45:16She did like a Kier rice pudding with apple butter and toffee that was quite good. And she told me just a little bit about the family history that I think is interesting, which is that their father opened a fried chicken and sub shop called Chicken Tonight in Rockville, Maryland. And it was open from 1982 to 2006. And that was kind of the first family restaurant. And then when it closed, the younger generation started doing these flatbread at farmer's markets. And then when it came time for them to open their first restaurant or their first bakery, they actually secretly rented the same storefront that their dad and uncle were running this fried chicken restaurant out of for like almost 40 years.
45:51Didn't tell the family. There's a really cute video on their Instagram of it like being the surprise moment for everyone. What? I know. It's so cool. It's so sweet. It's really sweet. To go back to your family restaurant and open up a new, oh my gosh. And they didn't tell them, right, until they actually showed up there and then one of them had the keys. They're like, how do you have the keys? Which is really sweet. I think they're actually closed right now just because there's some plumbing or gas construction happening in the neighborhood. But I think they should be back open soon. And certainly if anyone that's listening is in D.C., I would definitely make my way there.
46:20Well, I love to hear about fresh flatbread being served. I think that I was talking to a chef about this in L.A. It feels like that's such a cool concept to do fresh flatbreads and all these different condiments and drizzles. And we'll definitely link to that video in the show notes because I can't wait to watch it. Yeah. I mean, on one hand, it's a very old concept, right? Of course. It's like a way that this has been eaten forever. But I think certainly here in New York to have that really distinguished like Saj grill like on the sidewalk and be able to eat it immediately. It's kind of like how a taco is best like right when it's being eaten.
46:51So, yeah, I think that's really cool. Great point there. I think that's really smart. Like, obviously, this is traditional cooking and it's been done for generations all around the world. I think it's just all about concepting for New Yorkers or D.C. and seeing it done in that way and having all that energy around it. Yeah. What's your next thing? My next thing is I was in L.A. and I went to Dayglo a lot. And I feel like they're tweaking the menu a bit, so I have to shout it out. Dayglo, it's a coffee storefront. They have one in Brooklyn as well, in Chicago. I think in Texas. I'm not sure. But what they do is they have a great cold coffee menu that I'm going to get into, but they also have a great retail wall.
47:28So they have coffees from all over. I think I spotted coffees from Coffee Collective, Little Wolf, Fried Hats, which are those tins. I love their branding. Moving Coffee and Kawa. And so I love going there for retail and definitely trying bags here and there. But, man, their cold drinks are so exciting right now. The Warhol is espresso. So it's like an aerated cream, citrus and vanilla. Probably my favorite is, well, I have two favorites, French Dispatch, Espresso, Roasted Chicory Cream, Anise and Pecan. And the Alyssa Lunch, it's matcha, strawberry and pistachio milk. So plant-based, great combination, not too sweet.
48:10I saw them sell like four of those when I was just sitting in the cafe. And, you know, Dayglo, I haven't been to the Brooklyn location, actually. But in L.A., it's definitely my favorite place for coffee right now and especially for cold drinks. It sounds really good. I feel like the strawberry matcha combo has been so big, certainly online and also in kinds of drink places over the past year. And when I was in L.A., I tried one for the first time. Honestly, quite good. Quite good with pistachio milk, too, which I think is a nice when you get a nice product. It's very rich. It's a rich drink and I love it.
48:43What's your last thing? My last thing is that I want to give a little scene report from the Fort Greene dog costume contest last weekend because the winner had a food related costume. Have you been to this before? I've heard of the Fort Greene. I've been to the East Village parade. Yeah, the Tompkins one is quite good. Yeah, that's the Tompkins one is the one I've been to. But tell me about it. The Fort Greene one is funny because everybody sits on the steps kind of on the north side of the park. So there's kind of stadium seating of people watching and judging the dogs. And they bring up, I think they had almost 100 dogs that had enrolled.
49:18And everyone cheers for them. And then the judges make a top 10. And then the crowd picks a top three. And then the judges pick a winner based on the cheers for the top three. It's all a cheer-based system. Very cool. And there are lots of really cool costumes. It's almost like people have started making sculptures that their dogs are attached to. because if it's a little dog, they're allowed to be in a cart or something like that. So there was a family that made literally the Coney Island Cyclone, and the dog was sitting in the little roller coaster car on the top of it. That was one of the top winners, for example.
49:53But the best one and the crowd favorite by far was a small little dog. The dog's named Gemma. She's a friend of one of my friend's dogs, actually. So we were very excited about this. Dressed up as a Babybel Cheese. Oh, no. Stop. That's ridiculous. Like an interactive costume. Like they walked the dog up and it looked fully like a baby bell kind of on top of this, almost like a snail shell on top of the dog. Then they took off the plastic wrapping. Then they unwrapped the wax like the same way you would eat a baby bell and left the cheese underneath it. And when they started unwrapping the wax, the crowd just lost it.
50:27Chaos. Shirley starts screaming so loud for this dog that people in front of us move their seats because they were worried about their dog getting scared about the crowd noise. Adorable. and the dog was happy, I would imagine. The dog was happy, I think. I mean, the dog seemed fine. The dog was actually supremely unbothered by the whole thing, which was really impressive. It was a sculpture with a dog underneath it, basically. Some dogs didn't even make it on the stage because they were scared about the crowd or they didn't like the outfit. Gemma did not care. She was very happy to be a cheese.
50:53And then what happened was they called up the top 10 and originally somehow she wasn't put by the judges into the top three. And the whole crowd starts chanting, baby bell baby bell and so they had to reconfigure everything and obviously this dog won i'll show you photos i love to see that that's amazing i love a good food theme costume at the dog parade there were a lot of hot dogs there were a lot of hamburgers etc but the baby bell cheese i think the fact that it was modular and interactive is really it won the baby bell baby i was like we We are in a society and our society is united. We are divided, but we are united for baby bell cheese.
51:34Do you like baby bells? Do you ever eat them? Honestly, no. And one of my friends that I was with had never had one before. She didn't grow up here and we were all leaving afterwards and she had to peel off and go to the bodega. Ooh, peel off. Peel off. Good job. And go to the bodega to buy one and try it for herself. Sleeper Hit is the black one, which is like, I think, sharp cheddar. Hard to find. It's actually not hard to find. It's actually quite easy to find. But that's my flavor of choice. Yeah. Yeah, Gemma the dog obviously was the classic red baby bell just for recognition. Classic red.
52:03But I like that there's more out there. Yeah. What's your last thing? My last thing is I have to give an Erewhon scene report because I was just in LA and why not? Can we have the like four green dog scene report, the Erewhon scene report? We're doing scene reports here. Yeah, okay. I mean, we're out in the world. You know, we're not just like in here talking to people. We're out in the world. That's what we do, right? What's up at Erewhon? So Erewhon's great. Like Air One's great. They're still selling$11 raw milk. And that's cool for the half gallon, maybe a gallon. Do they really sell raw milk?
52:35Oh, yes. Of course. Actually, I saw one for like maybe in the$18 range back in when I went to the Beverly Hills one earlier this year. But I was at the one off Sunset, which is probably my favorite right now. I think there's parking underground. It's pretty easy to get to, et cetera. But I found some new products and I wanted to shout them out because that's the beauty of going to Erewhon. I skipped the smoothie line, frankly, because that's just crazy. And it's too much to wait in line for a$22 smoothie. Bless you if that's your thing. A couple new products. Kelsey's Kitchen has plant-based gluten-free bars that I just love the texture.
53:16It really was a bar that – or a brownie bar, I guess you could call it, that speaks to me. I'm like a soft, you know, rich chocolatey guy. And I had the mint. So that was a new discovery. I hit up Midday Squares, of course. Lexington Bakes, of course. Florida Soul is always there. So I sampled those. Cove Soda is a brand new to me entry into the probiotic soda wars. It's pretty crazy. I'm kind of upset about the probiotic soda thing, to be honest, because they're encroaching into the kombucha section of the case now. I know they are, right? For real. And I have less kombucha to choose from. But go on.
53:57You're team booch for sure. And I think the bodega downstairs that we love is still very stocked with kombucha. No, they have more probiotic soda for sure. I'm currently drinking a kombucha from the bodega downstairs and I did not have that many options. I'm sorry. I'm sorry. But maybe I think one or two are going to maybe pass in 2025. I feel like it's going to be a real rubber hits the road moment for probiotic sodas. A reminder that Alipop and Poppy are the big brands. But Cove is cool. It's sugar-free probiotics. So they're going for the sugar-free thing. Really great nostalgia with the cola flavor that I sampled.
54:35But I like their flavors. They have grapefruit, root beer, and grape, which were three of like maybe 10 flavors. and like the sugar-free thing with naturally sugar-free, I'm kind of into that. I like the branding a lot. I mean, I'm just going off of like one can, so I haven't really sampled their selection, but I kind of like it. That's cool. Even though it's not the section of the refrigerated beverage area that I gravitate towards, I like to hear about the updates. I feel like in general, just going to Erewhon and standing in front of all of the drinks is always such a, it's both grounding and also like makes me disassociate at the same time.
55:09I love that. You know? It definitely is not your everyday bodega or everyday grocery store. It definitely has a little bit of a dissociation. I follow you on that thread. That's good. Yeah, but it's kind of nice, you know. I feel like when I go to the grocery store, it's because I have things I need to buy from my home. And when I'm in L.A. and I'm at Erewhon, I'm not grocery shopping in that same kind of way. So it kind of suits the way that I'm existing, that I can be kind of floating around and wafting over to look at a vegan cinnamon roll and then getting a drink or something. Yeah, good point.
55:40I use it as research just for the show, just to see what's on the shelves. And I always find new products. I saw some new gluten-free pastas. I can't remember the name, but I was like, wow, we have more room for gluten-free pasta, I guess, in our world. Last product I sampled was Zob's Hot Sauce. The dadle pepper is what they're making with, which I think is a cool pepper. It's sweet and low heat. And shouts to Miles Soberoff, who's the founder. And I actually was having a quick catch-up with my buddy Dan Holtzman at Danny Boy's in Westwood. And there he was. He recognized me from the show. I'd never met the guy.
56:17And, hey, shouts to you, Miles. Thanks for listening to the show. And I went and bought your pepper sauce, and I think it's terrific. So two SKUs, original and St. Augustine style, which I didn't. I got the original. But a new hot sauce for my pantry. Can I ask what kind of food you think would pair best with this hot sauce? You know, that is a personal question, I feel. Like hot sauce, I'm usually not. Like I'm definitely a Valentina guy. That's like the one that's my standard. Of course, Frank's Red Hot is always there as well. Or Crystal. um i personally and don't laugh when i have cottage cheese around i always put hot sauce on cottage cheese what does that make you does that make you feel okay no i'm into that it sounds good um i don't love putting it into cooking personally um unless it's like uh like obviously hot wings or something like that but like just throwing it if you're like doing like a mushy uh vegetable stir fry um some people in my household uh context clues can can figure out who that is likes to just throw a lot of hot sauce into the stir fry right away and i'm like nah i like seasoning on my own um i really like for when i'm making like chili or lentil soup or something tabasco or more of like a vinegar based hot sauce i think really rounds it out in a cool way that's a great call i think putting the vinegar based into chili when you're cooking it makes sense i just love i do you like sour cream in your chili yeah i mean on the bowl for serving not in the actual pot.
57:47Yeah, no, definitely. And I just like, I think about sour cream and always like dousing it with hot sauce. For me, instead of it just being straight sour cream, that's like my chili go-to with definitely hard cheddar or sharp cheddar. You're like making me think of my hot sauce journey. I mean, definitely on any kind of cheese tortilla, I always put a bit of hot sauce. What else do you put it on? Everything. We could just like name it like 20 minutes. I really, I have a lot of hot sauce. I'm someone who would carry, actually, I have had little mini Tabasco bottles that I carry around from time to time, which is fun.
58:21But I'm excited to try this new one. Yeah, it's a good one. Thanks for sharing your three things. You too.
58:30This is Taste is hosted by Eliza Abarbanel and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is produced by Shalia Harris and Pat Stango and edited by Clayton Gumbert. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all cool things that are happening.
From the publisher
Wow, we love David Tamarkin so much, and this is such a great interview. We’re old friends and have been reading David since he worked at Time Out Chicago and Epicurious—and he’s now the editorial director at King Arthur Baking Company. He returns to our studio to discuss the company’s terrific new book, a real doorstop called The Big Book of Bread. As the title suggests, this is the cooperative flour company’s bread magnum opus, and we talk about all of it with David.
Also on the show, it’s the return of Three Things where Aliza and Matt discuss what is exciting in the world of restaurants, cookbooks, and the food world as a whole. On this episode: Le Veau d'Or scene report, Bawi has an amazing new flavor, Z&Z za'atar & manoushe company did a great pop-up in NYC, and has a very cool story. Also, a reminder that Dayglow sells an amazing selection of coffee and is making the most-exciting cold coffee drinks on the planet.
Also! The Fort Greene dog parade had some food-themed costumes, and an Erewhon scene report including some new discoveries from Kelsi's Kitchen, Mid-Day Squares, Lexington Bakes, Cove Soda, and Zab's pepper sauce.
Take our listener survey! We'd love to to hear who we should invite into our studio for an interview and TASTE Check.
MORE FROM DAVID TAMARKIN:
No-Knead Crusty White Bread [King Arthur]
We Don’t Need to Be Saved From Making Smoothies [NYT]
This Is TASTE 162: David Tamarkin [TASTE]
We Hit Peak Beverage [TASTE]
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