In short
Podcast Summary: This Is TASTE Episode 503
Episode Overview
- Title: New Cookbooks Blowout: Baking, Restaurants, Memoir, Worldviews, and Influencers
- Hosts: Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard
- Description: Discussion of notable new cookbooks released in fall, covering a variety of genres including baking, restaurant, memoir, and cultural insights. Emphasis on gift-giving during the holiday season with recommendations for independent bookstores.
Key Topics Discussed
- Baking Cookbooks
- Criteria for a Good Baking Cookbook:
- Recipes should sound delicious and offer new techniques or flavors.
- Importance of including weights in grams alongside measurements for accuracy.
- Cultural representation in baking recipes.
- Highlighted Baking Cookbooks:
- Desi Bakes by Hetel Vasavada: Combines Indian flavors with Western desserts, featuring gluten-free and vegan options.
- Crumbs by Ben Mims: Focuses on cookies from around the world, exploring cultural significance and various techniques.
- Richard Hart Bread by Richard Hart and Lori Woliver: Technical bread book with a mix of personal narrative and advanced baking techniques.
- Breaking Bound by Clarice Lam: A playful baking book with innovative recipes influenced by Japanese and Italian cultures.
- King Arthur Big Book of Bread: Comprehensive bread book suitable for all levels, emphasizing various types of flour.
- Restaurant Cookbooks
- Discussion on the resurgence of restaurant cookbooks, with a spotlight on three notable titles:
- Mingle 2: Turkish restaurant cookbook highlighting traditional dishes and modern interpretations.
- Cafe Cecilia: Featuring Irish and European-inspired recipes from a beloved neighborhood restaurant in London.
- Four Horsemen: A celebrated New York City restaurant cookbook, including recipes and wine notes that reflect its acclaim.
- Memoir and Biography Cookbooks
- Notable Titles:
- Why I Cook by Tom Colicchio: A memoir reflecting on his journey and philosophies regarding food and cooking.
- Taste in Music by Luke Pineson and Alex Bleeker: Essays from musicians on food experiences while touring.
- A Thousand Feasts by Nigel Slater: A memoir featuring memorable meals and personal stories.
- Be Ready When the Luck Happens by Ina Garten: A memoir detailing her career journey and insights into her life.
- Cuisines and Cultures
- Contemporary African Kitchen: A collaborative effort featuring recipes from top African chefs, focusing on cultural significance.
- Panchan by Caroline Cho: A collection of Korean-American side dishes that highlight creativity and tradition.
- Wafu Cooking by Sunoko Sakai: Japanese-inspired recipes integrating influences from around the world.
- My Egypt by Michael Mina: Insights and recipes reflecting Mina's Egyptian heritage.
- Big Names in Cookbooks
- Dolly Parton's Good Lookin' Cookin': A family-friendly cookbook with beloved recipes.
- Soup Salad Sandwiches by Maddie Matheson: A fun take on comfort foods with a humorous tone.
- What Goes With What? by Julia Tertian: A guide to cooking based on pantry ingredients.
- Life's Sweetest Moments by Dominique Ansel: Dessert recipes paired with personal stories.
- Pass the Plate by Carolina Geller: A vibrant cookbook featuring exciting and innovative recipes.
Conclusion This episode of *This Is TASTE* offers a deep dive into the diverse landscape of new cookbooks for fall, emphasizing the joy of cooking at home and the cultural stories behind recipes. Aliza and Matt encourage listeners to explore these titles and consider them for their holiday gifting, while also promoting independent bookstores as a source for these culinary treasures. The discussion successfully highlights the intersection of food culture, personal narrative, and the joyful act of cooking.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbart.
0:43The holidays are here, which means it's cookbook season. All fall, Eliza and I have been talking about some of our favorite-titting bookstore shelves. On this episode, we dive into all types of books, baking, restaurants, social media stars, and many cool titles that fall in between. We hope you enjoy our tour through these new titles and hit up your favorite bookseller to pick one up.
1:16Eliza, we're here. We're talking about fall cookbooks. How are you doing? I'm great. You know, I feel like we wait all year to talk about fall cookbooks, so it's finally happening. It's finally happening, And we're kind of doing a little different this year. We're going to be doing a number of segments based on the categories we find have like prominent publishing this year. And the first one we're going to take on is baking. Eliza, what do you look for in a baking cookbook? I'm curious. Well, I feel like I look for a couple things. I look for things that sound really delicious off the bat. I feel like a lot of people have like a comfort brownie recipe or a family chocolate cake recipe.
1:54And if you're going to bring in something new, then it needs to be something that you haven't seen before, whether it's like a technique or a flavor or just a completely different style of baking. I also look for weights and measurements in the cookbook. So I know a lot of people like to use cups and tablespoons and that totally can exist. But I think having the parenthetical grams alongside it so you can use your scale and make sure it's super accurate is important to me also. Me too. I love having a gram measurement. It's not always required, but I really do appreciate that. And what I also seek, I agree with you, like having a new twist on old classics is cool.
2:26I like learning about cultures through baking and especially cultures that maybe aren't published as frequently in the baking category. And that leads to my first pick. And we're not really calling these picks. They're not like the best of. We're going to be rolling out several segments throughout the year as we get into like the big cookbook buying season and the release season. But the first one I want to talk about is Desi Bakes. 85 Recipes Bringing the Best of Indian Flavors to Western-Style Desserts. Wow, that is quite a subtitle. By Hetel Vasavada. Now, I have to say, I don't know too much about South Asian baking.
3:04And it's kind of an interest of mine, having just returned from India. And I think what Hetel is doing here, and Hetel is from the Milk and Cardamom Instagram account, which is quite popular, it's definitely a book that is framed for the Western audience. So there's a lot of like Western paradigms. There's brownies and there's shakes and things that kind of fall into Western cooking, but all with like more of a South Asian Indian lens. There's a lot of gluten free, egg free and vegan dishes in here. But I really like what I reviewed from the PDF. And we should say that like we haven't seen all these books.
3:43we've tried our best to get the pdfs but we're recording this in mid-august and we'll definitely be catching up later um with when we start seeing the books in physical form but i really love like the strawberry rose valuda the coconut lime loaf cake those are a couple that come like to kind of jump off i mean things that i would definitely make and um i'll just close here and i'll hear your first one i love sola's quote uh the blurb you know there's lots of cool blurbs here it's perfect for blowing away the PTA at the next bake sale. Love that quote. It's really fun. New mom, Sola, already ready to blow over and out of the water.
4:18Ready for the PTA immediately. I love it. So what is your first selection? Well, I just want to say that in addition to doing these roundups, we're also going to be doing interviews with a lot of authors that are going to be coming to the studio or coming in on Zoom. So there are some great baking books that we're not going to talk about in this roundup because we'll have more time to talk about them, et cetera. My first pick is called Crumbs by Ben Mims, who used to be a cooking columnist at the LA Times and is someone whose recipes I really admire. And he is kind of doing what you're saying in terms of looking at all kinds of different cultures that have baking.
4:46And he is focusing on cookies specifically. So he has hundreds of cookie recipes from all around the world. Because of Cake Scene, we did an issue called Tough Cookie, where we were looking at cookies in different global cooking traditions. So I'm already kind of interested in this. He has like an Azure Brazani egg yolk thumbprint cookie. He has beer cookies, which I'd never heard of before. They're called periarchi and they're from North Macedonia and it's like a soft crumbly cookie that has beer for that kind of multi-yeasty flavor. And a lot more. And he also is talking about the significance behind these cookies in terms of what a shape could symbolize or how ingredients came into this culture and then were showcased in that cookie.
5:24And so I think if you're someone who likes baking, it's something you can really kind of geek out on. I love a fresh cookie book and Ben is one of, you know, the sharpest minds in recipe development. I loved his work at the LA Times and previously Lucky Peach. Big fan of Ben here. My next selection is Richard Hart Bread. It's by Richard Hart and Lori Woliver. And, you know, Richard Hart is, you may have recognized that name from the bear because his book is featured, I believe, in season two. The character Marcus has a copy of this book and is really kind of analyzing it and really, or at least it's not necessarily his book, but it's his work.
6:07So I have to clarify that. It looked like a book, but it's more just like his online persona. And really, Richard Hart is a real deal. He was born outside London. He worked in the Bay Area, places like Della Fattoria and Petaluma. It's like a really famous Italian style bakery. And then he worked at Tartine for many years. It was the head baker, which had Robertson there. And then he was recruited by Rene Redzepi to move to Copenhagen and open Hartbaggery, which has now grown into eight branches in Denmark. And so the book is beautiful. And credit to Laurie Wolliver for collaborating on this and bringing Richard's story to the forefront.
6:45I really enjoyed reading through this book and learning about Richard, somebody who I didn't really know much about outside of the bear and maybe some recipes. It's funny, Eliza. The book is really, he's like not into science. He's like right away saying, I'm not like a numbers geeky guy. I just like cook by spirit and bake by spirit. But then you start reading it and you're like, holy shit, this is actually really technical. It's almost like a production book. I would call it intermediate to advanced in terms of what you need to make recipes from this book. And that is absolutely OK. I don't think every book needs to be easy and simple.
7:19And really, he's telling you how to scale. He has a lot of baking math in it and has a whole early section about what baking math means. And really, I love this book. There's a lot of QR codes in it. So it shows like videos for technique. And really, if you want to get serious about baking bread and there's lots of rye breads, there's laminated doughs, there's lots of a variety of baking projects. You're really going to be satisfied. It's definitely like an AP level book again. And I like that point of view from a baking book. And Richard is kind of a mad genius as a personality too. So that really comes out.
7:57I enjoy this book. I like AP bread as a category. Totally. What's your next one? My next one is called Breaking Bound. It's by Clarice Lamb, whose name you might know from. She's been kind of a career restaurant person here in New York. She worked at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery. She was at Spice Market and she was the opening pastry chef at Kimika, which is a kind of Japanese Italian restaurant here in Nolita. And the food there, I think, is really special. And this book is just like a really fun and playful baking book. She has like all kinds of recipes like a pork floss and scallion focaccia.
8:29That sounds rad. Which is a riff on a focaccia that they do at Kimika that I really enjoyed. She has a sweet corn custard bao, which I think sweet corn is like the cool dessert flavor here in the U.S., at least this summer. And a lot of other recipes that are kind of showing it how like baking cultures and traditions around the world have intersected. I think if you look at like Japanese patisserie culture, for example, which is like influenced by the French and Italian and then also like very much Japanese flavors. She has a cool mix of things. And there also are some kind of snack recipes as well.
9:00But it's mostly a baking book. So that's my next one. I love that. Well, my next one and my final one for baking is the King Arthur Big Book of Bread, which I've had a chance to read for about a month. And wow, it is big. It has 125 recipes from the legendary Vermont Flour Company. I'm sure our listeners know about King Arthur. It's a cool company. It's cooperative. It's employee owned. It has a great story. And we're having some reps from the King Arthur Baking Company coming on the show soon. So we'll talk more about that. But I really like the way they integrate all of their styles of flour into the recipes.
9:41And it's not necessarily endorsement to buy the flours, but of course it is. And they do a great job with their flours. and I really like the way naturally leavened breads can be thought of with this scope with 125 recipes. It's for serious bread folks and really, I think there's a lot of bread books out there and like, do we need more? It's a big question, but this one's definitely filling a little bit of a gap because it does hit a lot of alt flours and I love this quote from Claire Saffitz. It's truly a bread book for every baker. Well, here you go. I feel like there's definitely going to be advanced recipes, some simple focaccia pan breads as well.
10:21But I really enjoyed my time with this book. Yeah, you said naturally leavened. Is it all sourdough or do they have like instant yeast and things like that as well? From my reading, there was mostly naturally leavened is the kind of the emphasis here. I think there might be some instant yeast recipes. He's like, there's definitely some like yeast breads, like some buns and things that might use those instant non-fermented doughs. So I think like it's for all types of bakers. Going back to Claire's quote, it's for every baker. Yeah, my favorite sandwich bread recipe is a King Arthur classic on their website.
10:55So I'm sure that would be in the book alongside some other ones too. Very much so. There's lots of sandwich bread there. What's your last one? I'm going to keep it there for now because I'm going to be talking to some bakers on the podcast. Oh, okay. Hey, well, we're going to have lots of bakers coming on the show. These are just a few of our favorites or ones that we're calling out. But, Eliza, we'll be back to talk more about baking. There's so many more titles, and it was great catching up. Yeah, you too. Hi, Matt. How are you doing? Hey, what's up, Eliza? Not much. I just want to tell you about some cookbooks I'm excited about for the fall in the spirit of some of these little segments we've been doing about the fall cookbooks coming out.
11:30I can't wait to hear about it. You know, we've been profiling these books. We don't have all the books. We're recording this in mid-August, but we're trying our best. We're looking at books that are exciting us. And this is a category that I feel has been underpublished in the past five years. I think the cookbook industry has made a decision that maybe restaurant books aren't the biggest sellers for a variety of reasons. But there's maybe a little bit of a renaissance happening. I can't say if it's going to change in the future and there'll be more restaurant books. but you took a real shine to several of the titles coming out that are written by a restaurant and I'd love to hear about them.
12:07Yeah I want to give a shout out to Faden because they're publishing two of the three restaurant cookbooks that we're talking about. I think they're a publisher that is interested in doing these kinds of books still and you know I would never talk about a restaurant book just because it's a hyped restaurant but these are three restaurants that I've eaten at that I think are really special and they're debut cookbooks from all of them and I think that one of the benefits about doing a restaurant cookbook is that if you haven't had the opportunity to go somewhere before, you can kind of get a sense of maybe not the ambience or the whole experience of dining there, but at least what the food that they're doing is about.
12:36The first one I want to talk about is called Mingle 2. It's from Mingle 2, which is a really landmark East London restaurant, Turkish restaurant. It's run by two brothers whose father is the Turkish chef, Ali Dirk, who immigrated to London. And he opened the first, I would pronounce this, Oshak Basi, which is a Turkish kind of like grilling bar restaurant in London in 1994. That was called Mengal 1. His sons Ferhat and Sertak opened Mengal 2. And that has kind of become really like championed by the food scene in London. It's a really fun vibe. They're doing like really great Turkish food, like grilled chickpea hummus, sourdough pide, tahini tart.
13:16They also have a really good natural wine program. And I think something that kind of tips the hat on where this kind of sits in the London food scene is that Action Bronson wrote the foreword for this book. Colorful. Colorful, special, one-of-a-kind, maybe a little boisterous, really fun restaurant. The next one I want to talk about is also in London, Cafe Cecilia is run by the Irish chef Max Rocha. It's really one of the most special restaurants I've been to. I went for a long lunch when I was in London, which I think is like maybe the fun time of day to go there. There's a book blurb from Nigella Lawson that I'll read because if Nigella is blurbing your book, I think it's a good sign.
13:53At Cafe Cecilia, you will find some of the absolute best cooking in London. And I'm greedily grateful for this little gem of a book. So it is their debut cookbook. It's a beloved neighborhood restaurant. And they serve what they would call like simple Irish and European inspired food. I would say maybe it's not quite as simple if you're not a restaurant chef. But they definitely did pare back the recipes. There's things to make like your own Guinness bread at home. You could do artichokes with sunflower seed tahini. You could do sage and anchovy fritters, which I had when I was there that are really special.
14:25And I just think as someone who doesn't get to go back to London often, I don't know when I'm going to be back again, but I know that I'm going to get to cook from this book. And that's cool. I love it. And I'll just jump in and say the restaurant cookbook is such a great gift if you're like giving the person a gift certificate or an experience there. And I think that we forget about that sometimes that when you're gifting, it's nice to have like. a preview of a meal you're going to have. I think that's one part of these books really play a role. Like I remember the Del Posto book when that came out.
14:59I received it as a gift with a gift certificate to Del Posto. And wow, that was amazing. Think about the Charlie Trotter cookbooks. Like there's a long history of restaurant cookbooks in our industry. And I just don't think they've sold well for whatever reason. And that's why there's been a hesitance and a great job, I agree, in bringing them back. And I really hope that for whatever – I hope we buy these books, the ones you're featuring here and other ones, to show the industry that restaurant books actually have a place. And I think that you could always do a second book that's more home and chef-y.
15:32I think Zahav is a great example, too, of a restaurant book that has now been kind of book two and book three forthcoming are more home books. So maybe that's a trajectory, too, that book publishers could look at. and I just encourage all editors out there and acquisition editors, give it a shot. Some of these restaurants deserve their magnum opus. Yeah, and I think like the books are not just spotlighting the food from the restaurants, but the Cafe Cecilia book has really beautiful portraits of not only the entire team of the restaurant, but the suppliers that are bringing the food in as well.
16:05And I think it kind of shows what you can do with a book that is like really trying to show what it means to have a restaurant, not just in terms of the food that they're putting out, but the people that are doing that and the way that they do that. Yeah. In that spirit, the last cookbook I want to talk about is the Four Horsemen cookbook. Man. I think if you've eaten in New York or you know the New York food scene, it's hard to not know about Four Horsemen, Michelin Star, James Murphy, Valsity Sound System being one of the owners. I just think it's a really perfect restaurant. It is my go-to occasion restaurant here in New York whenever it's a birthday or maybe we're celebrating a career thing happening for a friend or I want to sneak and visit one of my friends who works in the kitchen there.
16:45Like, it really is the most perfect restaurant. And I think a lot of people have been waiting for this cookbook to come out. And I think they're doing a lot of cool things with it. They certainly have a lot of recipes from the restaurant that I've enjoyed before. They have fried skate wing a couple of ways. They have their burnt cheesecake that's kind of lacquered with sherry for a kind of salty, tangy, sweet experience. But they also have really good wine notes in the book as well, which is special. Their wine program has led like much acclaim and they have kind of like fun, unfussy, special ways about how to incorporate wine into the meal.
17:16And I think that it's just something I've been looking forward to and I recommend. Yeah, same here. I love Four Horsemen as well. And I think Nick Cartola, the chef there, is also an author of this book. Gabe Ulla also collaborated on this book, and Gabe has been a great whisperer of chefs throughout his career and has done many chef books. So I really a lot of hope that this book will really break out again and maybe sell a bunch of copies and get more restaurant books out there. And Four Horsemen has a real spirit to it that I feel captures Brooklyn dining over the past decade. It really has defined what many Brooklyn restaurateurs and chefs have aimed for, which is international acclaim, but also keeping it neighborhood-y.
18:01And like, as you can say, as you said really well, it's like a great place to celebrate for locals, not just for tourists. So I think that's a beauty of a restaurant when you can get both crowds in and both feel special. But I think, you know, as they have continued to grow and as the acclaim has grown, it's really nice to be able to kind of encapsulate a moment in time in a book as well. And it is a special restaurant. I can't wait for that, for the Four Horsemen book. I have to mention the Balthazar cookbook. We've written about it. I think Garrett Schneider wrote a great piece about it for us, maybe 2018.
18:31And that's one of the classic restaurant books available. It's still in print, still selling, I'm sure, with the Keith McNally memoir coming next year. This book will probably get some interest. And that is a book that captures a moment in time. Photography is like capturing the back of the house in front of the house together. Eliza, my mind has slipped. There's a book I actually want to mention here, a restaurant book, a terrific restaurant called Kalaya in Philadelphia. And it focuses on southern Thailand. And I literally just got the copy. I think we were doing notes before and I really hadn't thought about it until now.
19:05So, yes, Kalaya is a restaurant book that is being published here at Crown. Nak Santaranan is the chef and owner and really the force behind this restaurant that is really hard to get into, I must say. So definitely book ahead. This might be the best reason to buy the book because you can't really get into the restaurant maybe. I love the fact that Philadelphia gets its own restaurant book. Terrific. Yeah, I love hearing that Kalaya has a book coming out because this is a perfect example of a place that I haven't been to before that I've heard such good things about. And I would love to make it out to Philly and go there.
19:42But maybe before I have the time to do that, I can get the book and cook a couple things. And again, I can't stress this enough. I hope these books succeed and we see more restaurant books because I was bummed when I was looking through Amazon trying to figure out what was coming out. And we didn't see a ton of restaurant books this year in this busy fall season. So I'm hoping it changes. Yeah, you know, it's also like a lot to ask for a restaurant that obviously is trying to be in business and open as many days as they can to devote themselves to writing a book as well. I'm sure a lot of these books have been in the works for a long period of time because they don't necessarily have the time to be, you know, adapting their restaurant recipes for a home cook.
20:17Yes, these recipes have already been in existence because they have been cooked in the restaurant, but the way that you cook it at scale is not the same as for an individual. So I think it's nice to see these coming out. Who knows? Maybe there are some in the mix that will come out in the future that we don't even know about yet. Liza, we're back. We're talking fall books. I want to take a moment to kind of solo a little bit on four books in this memoir biography reporting category that I've kind of made up a category. These are books that you might call them one color, though they're not all one color books, but they don't.
20:47They have more words and photos and they're kind of in this category of I feel that they call them like reported books or whatever. But really, these are books that you sit back, lean back and read on your Kindle or your physical book or your library book. And really, there's four that jump out. And I wanted to kind of call them out. I'm hoping to have these folks on the podcast to interview them. The first one I have not read. I've been requesting it for a while. But one day I will read it. It's called Why I Cook by Tom Colicchio. I've heard of him. this is this is tom collicchio's long awaited memoir he's written it with joshua david stein i had him on the show two years ago i think and he was already he was working on it then and we chatted a bit about the process so you know tom is a man of very few words if you've gotten to spend any time with him or seen him on top chef he's very like reserved and guarded but we know tom is also extremely um politically active and has big ideas i firmly believe the man will run for Congress one day.
21:49I think he has a future in policy. I feel that he has a lot more to offer our world than cooking in Top Chef. But of course, this is his lane right now. So really, I'm excited to hear about Tom's journey and why he cooks. I think that there's gonna be a lot of twists and turns in this. Also, like, obviously, Tom Colicchio biopic in the future. I haven't done my casting yet. I'm not gonna even speculate, but it's in the back of my head. So that's the first one. The next one is Taste in Music, Eating on Tour with Indie Musicians by Luke Pineson and Alex Bleeker. So Luke is a taste contributor. He's been on the show and talked about this book a little bit.
22:28And really, it's a collection of dispatches from the road, from touring musicians. And really, the food and music mashup has been done before. And I'm looking forward to seeing how these essays kind of unfold and if there's a broader... idea of what a touring musician in 2024 2025 is it's thinking about um versus like the previous food books have been done a decade ago when food is the new rock that meme um was was really prevalent and people were all about the mashup so we took a little break from like mashing it up and now we're back but i think it's in really smart hands with luke and alex and a couple of the the musicians featured include robin peckford from fleet foxes amelia meath from sylvan esso chris Franz from Talking Heads.
23:16Wow. Chris Franz. What a great get there. And then, of course, Mark Eibald from Pavement and also of Superior Burger. If you're going to have a drink down at Superior Burger, Mark might be standing in a bar down there. He's a longtime fixture of bartending world in New York. And Mark's got great stories. The Beths also show up, that great New Zealand four piece. I love the Beths. So I think the voices in this book are tremendous. and I look forward to checking it out and having Luke back to chat about it. My next book is Nigel Slater's A Thousand Feasts. Now, Nigel Slater, I was like on YouTube, just like kind of scrolling it recently, and I saw Nigel's tour of his garden.
23:58It was like from Architectural Digest. So dreamy. Oh, have you seen this video at all? No, but I would just imagine knowing his books that his garden would be spectacular. It's such a beautiful garden, of course, But the way he like purposefully talks about why he has these secret little like nooks and crannies and he does a lot of writing out there. I think of Nigel as a real elder statesman in the food writing world. He's a TV presenter in his native England. He's a cookbook author. He's really beloved by chefs and writers. And really, I've never heard of anyone speak a bad word about Nigel Slater.
Read the full transcript
24:35People love him. He's also like kind of tough to pin down in terms of doing interviews. I've requested an interview with him for our podcast, probably going back like five years since we started the show. He's never obliged some working on that one. But really, what I know about this book, which is not much, is that it is more of a memoir. It's calling A Thousand Feasts, which is kind of I'm deducing that it's stories of memorable meals and a little bit more of his life through all these all these meals in his life and his in his history. And I just can't wait to read it. I'm a fan of his cookbooks.
25:09And I want to know more about Nigel Slater. I also want to know more about Nigel Slater. So I feel like this book and all the books you've mentioned are things that I definitely need to add to my library list or maybe buy this fall. Yeah, it's a great category. And we're going to feature more books in the coming episodes on our show as we start to read them and really get them into our book bags. Do you like that word book bag? Do you ever use that word book bag? No, but maybe we should all be using it more. It takes me back to middle school. I don't know why I just came up. Yeah, it makes me feel like a young English lad going off to school.
25:40My book bag. My book bag. I'm going to stack all these memoirs in the book bag. The last one I've talked about on the show before, but I cannot mention it enough. It's Be Ready When the Luck Happens, a memoir, and it's by Ina Garten. And I've been able to read this book. I had an advanced copy, Flex Flex, there. And I'll just say that Ina does share details about her life, going back to her early days, growing up in Connecticut and really going to college and finding her way in the world in the 70s and then eventually starting Barefoot Contest in Long Island and just like 20 years of just straight work and hustle and really she had a career in the government.
26:17I can't forget about that. She worked in the White House previously to that and it's just such a great kind of like glimpse into Ina's land that in world that we don't really see on television and I just think this book is going to be a big book this fall and I look forward to seeing how it's received and if people are satisfied with what she shares and she does share a lot she keeps some of it close to the chest so it's not her whole story maybe it'll be a second edition or version or chapter to her story but I love it it's a business book more than anything it's what I took away from it how you can start small and really work hard and grow and not doing it in like a weird VC way and like get capital right away.
26:58Like this is well before that world. And she like went from one location to two. And really, it all comes back to the recipes and her finding what her audience liked to buy at the shop and really eventually finding her way into television. It's a great section there about how she ended up on the Food Network reluctantly. And then of course, we know the rest of the story. Ina Garten is who we love. And really, I think this book is terrific and you should all check it out this fall. Thanks for sharing all these pics with us, Matt. Thanks, Eliza. So, Eliza, we're back. We're talking about fall cookbooks.
27:31We're not calling these the best or the greatest. We're not using superlatives. We're kind of just reviewing what we're excited about. We've seen some of these books in PDF form, in physical form, if we're lucky. Others, we've kind of just gotten a sense of the style of cookbook from the descriptive copy. But really, this next category is a really cool one. You named it. Yeah, I named it Cuisines and Cultures, which I think is maybe an imperfect name, but I love the alliteration. So that's always a good place to start. And I think what we're trying to get at is this very large and expanding and exciting category of books that are from authors that are spotlighting different like cultural techniques or cuisines.
28:10Maybe the author is American. Maybe they're not. Maybe they're kind of talking about food that is in between different cultures. But the goal of the book is to be kind of sharing a different cultural tradition and like transporting you somewhere as well, maybe. What a great category. Well said, Eliza, it's not easy to make these categories sometimes. Yeah, I mean, it's really fun for us to get to look at all of the books and think about how to group them together. But the reality is that there's a million different ways we could talk about all of them. And one of the first books that I want to talk about today is called The Contemporary African Kitchen, Home Cooking Recipes from the Leading Chefs of Africa.
28:46And I'm just so excited about this for so many reasons. The first is that Alexander Smalls is the main writer and editor on this book. He's a James Beard Award winning chef, author and restaurateur. He co-owns the Harlem restaurants, the Cecil and Minton's. And he also is a world renowned opera singer. He has a Grammy and a Tony. I don't know if you know this about him, but he is just the most impressive. and I think the lineup of chefs that he has contributing recipes are also really impressive. There's friends of the show like Eric Agypong who has a recipe representing Ghana and Pierre Thiam from Senegal but also lots of other cooks as well and I think that it's just going to be a real cornerstone of anyone's cookbook collection.
29:23Yeah. Alexander is an incredible talent. I got to go to his apartment once for a book party and got to know him a little bit better. What an amazing guy and really when he pulls his friends and fans together for a book it's going to be really a special one. Glad you called that out. My first one is Panchan, 60 Korean-American Recipes for Delicious Shareable Sides by Caroline Cho. This speaks to me. I've written Korean cookbooks myself. And really, I've known Caroline for a while and really just respected her point of view. She's an artist. She's an educator. She lives in New York City. So we've been able to hang out a few times.
29:58But I have to say, doing a Panchan book, I've thought about this category. And it's extremely difficult to write. and she's done such a terrific job because panchan isn't really a single thing. It's not just the namul, the seasoned vegetables that are there, the kimchi's. There's a whole category of soups and tongs that come out of the panchan on the panchan table and she's done such a great job by offering creativity and really like offering new ideas in the Korean American vernacular and I love it. She has a couple of these recipes that just jump on initially She's a smoky gochujang chicken salad.
30:37She's a ho bok chun, like a zucchini pancake with peppers that I really love and a kimchi potato salad. And I think Caroline is really one of our most talented recipe developers. And she's really done a terrific job. It's not a big book. It's like nice and slim in the way that you want to have it on your counter. And just like you want to make some Kobe gym with a couple of these creative sides. It's like kind of doesn't feel like it's only panchun. It's almost like a Korean for home book that I really want to cook from. Yeah, it sounds awesome. The next one that I want to talk about is called Wafu Cooking by Sunoko Sakai.
31:14And this is another example of what I would consider to be a really well-respected and regarded cookbook author coming out with something new. Sunoko Sakai first wrote a Japanese cookbook in the U.S. in 1986, which I think is like such a different landscape of where we're at now. And Wafu literally translates to Japanese style. So it's the Japanese take on foods that originate in other parts of the world. So she has like dashi cheese grits with honey miso butter. She has a miso apple pie, lots of things like that. And it's kind of combining these flavors and ingredients and techniques. And it kind of speaks to her own background.
31:47She grew up between the United States, Mexico and Japan. And so while she's previously done like Japanese home cooking style books, I think this is kind of true to her experience and also the way that a lot of people seem to eat in Japan. So I'm really excited about that one. Can't wait to try those recipes. My next one is My Egypt, Cooking from My Roots by Michael Mina. We've had Michael on the show when we did this Las Vegas series. He's an acclaimed chef from San Francisco, New York City, and Vegas. And he's written cookbooks about his own style of cooking, which leans more Mediterranean, I would say.
32:17But really, this is a book that he's been working on for, I would say, around 10 years. I've been hearing about it. Kate Leahy is one of his collaborators on the book. And I've heard it on her great podcast. She's talked about it a bit, Everything Cookbooks. Now, this is all about Egypt, the place that he lived for only two years of his life, and he immigrated to America with his family. So he recognizes that he didn't grow up around Egyptian food, but he is a real scholar of the game, and he's really gone back to Egypt for a lot of influence in his restaurants. And this is the book that he goes back and cooks with family and friends and really travels the country and offers so many great ideas in recipe writing from the Egyptian point of view.
32:58We're going to have them hopefully back to talk about it more. So I want to leave it there. But it's such a cool book. What's your next one? My last one that I'll talk about is called The Chinese Way. It's by Betty Liu. Her family is from Shanghai, but it's kind of a kaleidoscope of different Chinese techniques and also some Chinese American techniques. One of the things that I look for in a cookbook is if it's kind of organized in an interesting way. And I really like the organization of this book. She breaks it out. Well, she has a pantry section that's broken out by different flavors like sweet, salty, spicy, tangy.
33:26And she gets into really good detail about like look for something that has like this region of origin on the label, like how to navigate that. But then also the book itself in terms of the recipes, there's a braising section, a frying section, a steaming section. So you can kind of choose one technique and work your way through that and learn different iterations of it from there. And I just think it's something that I want to cook a lot from. I can't wait to check it out. I have two more from this category. And again, we're going to be profiling many more books in the coming months. But this one speaks to me.
33:57Morissetta Kitchen Recipes and Stories from a Modern Puglian Farmhouse. Now, I've gone to Puglia as part of a taste travels, or I'm going back in September. So I've gotten to spend some time there. And really, this is the debut cookbook from Georgia Eugenie Goggi. She's a resident chef of a design-led restaurant hotel called Morissetta's Kitchen. At the Masseria Morissetta, massarias are throughout Puglia. They're like, it translates to farmhouse. But this is like a new style of dining. You go to a farmhouse. It's kind of agro-turismo style of cooking. And really, I love everything I've seen in Puglia.
34:33But when I went to Puglia for the first time, I tried to find a book to research Puglia. So I kind of knew what I was talking about when I was there for the first time. I couldn't really find it. And so I wish this book was there when I was there, when I was visiting there previously. The chapters are organized by season. And I like that a lot. The book is really, it's a little more chef-y. There's like a lamb and mizuna dish with mustard seeds and there's a cool tomato toast. So I don't know if I'm going to cook a lot from it. But I'm going to learn about Puglia and the way this farmhouse restaurant operates.
35:05That spoke to me. And my last one is classic German cooking. The very best recipes for traditional favorites from, okay, we're going to get into some German pronunciation here. I'm going to do my best. Semmel kunugel. That's not even right. I'm going to do this again. And we're going to keep this take because it's going to you're like you're feeling it with me as I'm going to it. Some old knudel to sauerbraten. All right, Luisa Weiss. I'm really sorry I did that, but I'm going to say some more German words. Luisa Weiss, classic German baking author, former columnist and journalist and really a terrific resource for German cuisine.
35:40And these are 100 of the best, most emblematic recipes of German Austrian home cooks. And really, I like learning about German home cooking because I don't know too much about it. And I think that I'm going to continue with my pronunciation journey. Reinder Holden, braised beef rolls. You're laughing. Sorry. Korkoflof, fresh cheese souffle. I'm really sorry, Germans out there. Korkofloof? Yeah, yeah, yeah. I'll get in it too. And knüner fricassee, chicken fricassee. And then there's an authentic Viennese goulash. and finally alpine kermknoodle plum butter stuffed steamed dumplings. I'm not trying to be funny here.
36:27I like that there's German language in this book. Like we're actually not trying to strip it down and make it more Americanized. We're actually making it German. So I hope, Louisa, if you're listening, you're not offended by my pronunciation. Hope to have you on the show. This book looks terrific and I can't wait to cook from it. I can't wait to cook from it and I can't wait to have Louisa tell us how to pronounce everything. We'll have like a definitely like a little bit of a fact check there. It'll be great. Thanks, Liza. You too. Eliza, we are back talking fall cookbooks. How are you doing?
36:57I'm good. How are you? I'm excited about the fall season. We've been we've been previewing many of the cookbooks coming out this fall. We're not calling these the best, the greatest, because we haven't seen the whole season. We're recording this in mid-August, so we haven't seen all the books. But really, this category we're calling big names because I think, you know, when you see a cookbook, You're like, OK, that's a person I follow. That's a person I know, either from television, from celebrity chef land or from the Internet, from social media. So many books now are being published by folks with big followings online.
37:30And we love that. So I think we've compiled a few of the ones that are are kind of jumping off right now. You start. What's your first one? My first one is by a certain someone named Dolly Parton. I'm excited. But you tell me about this book. Dolly Parton and her sister, Rachel Parton George. The cookbook is called Good Lookin' Cookin', A Year of Meals, A Lifetime of Family, Friends and Food. And as someone who aspires to be an adopted member of Dolly Parton's family, I think this is probably the closest I'm going to get. They have a ton of family recipes in the book for things like mac and cheese and spare ribs and strawberry shortcake.
38:04And I just think Dolly Parton is not only a country icon, but kind of a cooking icon. She's released a cookbook in the past. She also has the Duncan Hines cake mix brand line, which I think is super fun. And I just feel like any step you can get closer to Dolly Parton is a good path to be walking. I so agree. I loved her costume book that we put out last fall. This is like her second book with us here at Crown Publishing Group. And I've gotten to check out the book early. And it's such a terrific package. They call it like the way the photos and the text all come together. And like, come on the show, Dolly.
38:37Please. Yeah. Dolly, if you're listening, I'll be super normal and chill and I would love to talk to you. Also, I think this would be a great gift. I know we're not quite in holiday season yet, but I think if you're a Dolly Parton fan, this would be really fun to receive. Definitely a great gift for any Dolly fans. What's your first one to call out? My first one is soup salad sandwiches from Maddie Matheson. Now, Maddie has done cookbooks in the past and they've been terrific and I've been able to check them out. I've never met Maddie, but I've enjoyed his online content. And of course, we know Matty from The Bear, where he where he plays, I would say, a non-chef, more of like a goofball.
39:13But anyone who knows anything knows that he's like behind the scenes, one of the food stylists and food producers with Coco Store for this terrific show. But so Matty is a chef in Toronto and he has run acclaimed restaurants for a decade. And really, this is his first book that kind of really narrows the focus into soup, salad and sandwiches, three of his favorite food categories. and really I think the guy could probably have written a book about pho because he writes such a love letter to broth and pho and he worked closely with a Vietnamese chef and worked at a Vietnamese restaurant in his career and he has such a love letter to kick off the first section of this book I'm like man the guy probably wanted to write a pho cookbook but really we know that he wanted to expand it out a bit more and I love the light broths in the first soup section he has a rutabaga and daikon broth He's got a avogolamano soup that I feel is a real banger.
40:07But moving on to salads, he really has a lot of dexterity with his cookbook writing and his recipe writing. Cold broccoli salad. He's got this like recipe for a roasted shallot salad that is a little bit chef-y. So I think like cool thing about Matty is that he's like letting it all hang out and like loving every moment of it and doing these like kind of flexi chef-y recipes. but also very simple. Recipe's got a great love letter segway into sandwiches about the grilled cheese which is simply white bread and Kraft American singles. I think that's the only way to go with grilled cheese personally.
40:43And I just love the way he brings a lot of his voice and personality into it. And I think like the tuna melt is his love language with his wife Trishy which I thought is very sweet. And I think any fan of Maddie will love this book because it really does have his voice throughout it and lots of funny asides and quips in the head notes. And I'll close and say the man loves bologna. And he'll like cut a human if someone comes at him and tries to shade bologna. And I'm the same kind of person. So I love that he's a fan of the bologna. Bologna on English Muffin too. Nice little bread choice there.
41:18And you're going to maybe interview him. We're working on that. We'll see what happens. Come on, publicist. Make that happen. We want to make, we want to have Maddie in the show and Eliza's going to do the interviews. It's going to be really fun. What's your next one? My next one is called What Goes With What? 100 Recipes, 20 Charts, Endless Possibilities by Julia Tertian. I think Julia Tertian really knows what home cooks are looking for and want. And she has a really great approach towards like making it easy to cook at home in her newsletter. Keep Calm and Cook On. She does a lot of these matrixy charts that have like a recipe for any kind of soup where you have something brothy, aromatic, etc.
41:54And then you can kind of spin it into these different directions. And I think they've been such a success in her newsletter that it maybe led the way for this book to happen, which is kind of based in like helping you look at what's in your fridge, what's in your pantry and make something happen from there, which I think is a skill that is kind of hard to learn as a home cook, but is the most empowering thing that you can do. So I just think this is a really great book. And I'm actually going to get to talk with Julia about it at Rizzoli Bookstore here in New York on October 16th. So I'm looking forward to that.
42:21And we'll share a link to get tickets and RSVP when that's a little bit closer to. Yeah, I can't wait to have her on the stage at Resoliet. So those are always terrific events. And I love that she is, I think, now more of a cooking educator than a cookbook writer. And she does cooking classes online and a big fan of Julie Churchon. My next one is from Dominique Ansel, the father of the cronut. The cronut, the cruffin. I feel like so many combination words we owe to him. Indeed. Life's sweetest moments, simple stunning recipes, and the heartwarming stories. So it's a very slim book. It's only 40 simple recipes, all in the dessert category from Dominique Ancel.
42:59And really, I like the guy. I've spent some time with him. I really enjoy his company. He's got a lot to say. Hoping to have him on the show eventually. But I like this idea that he's telling some stories. He lived kind of a crazy life. You know, he's like so trained in France and has so much technique to teach. But then he became this like kind of meme chef guy, long lines, the Corona, et cetera, et cetera. Probably like a little bit of a head fuck for the guy to have this one recipe to find him a man who really has a lot to offer. So he's probably, I haven't read the book, so I'm not saying I know the content, but he's telling stories along the way.
43:32And some of the recipes that jump out, he's got his own classic creme boule, a hazelnut cake, and of course his tiramisu that I think I've tried in his studio before, which is like, I remember a few years back, it was one of my favorite dishes he's ever made. Evan Sung does photography. It's going to be a terrific book. I'm really looking forward to it. What's your final one? My final one is by Carolina Gellin. It's called Pass the Plate. And then when we talk about people who are big online in the food space that are making recipes, like Carolina is one of my favorites. And when I was looking up the book, I really loved this blurb from Deb Perlman of The Smitten Kitchen.
44:08She says, not a lot of cookbooks make me shouty, but this one did instantly. Everything looks so good. Clever, innovative and fresh. I hardly know what to cook first. and I felt the same way looking at the PDF. She has recipes for like chicken schnitzel with lemon gremolata and upside down pineapple coconut cake. And I just think it's cool when you can see somebody who has so much personality and success online who can make a book that feels like it's hitting on all of those same notes. So I'm excited about this one. I'm a big Carolina fan. I had a great conversation with her in the studio. It may have aired before.
44:38It will be airing soon. My next one is Justine Cook's A Cookbook. Recipes, Mostly Plants for Finding Your Way in the Kitchen by Justine Duran. We know Justine Snacks from her online persona. She is somebody that really has a love for beans. She is a terrific baker. And she calls herself a breakfast romantic. And really, this book, to me, is so intimate and personal. I love the writing. I spent a couple hours with it recently, and I just loved reading through it. Terrific writer and recipe developer. She has a great sweet and savory oatmeal combination. and again, her bread baking is underrated.
45:16I love that's near the end of it and this is a book, if you're a fan of Justine Cooks and you follow her on socials, you should definitely check out this book. I have to call it a final author. Sarah Fennell from Broma Bakery, Sweet Tooth, her and Justine and Carolina, three of our authors here at Crown, came together. I think they had dinner together recently. All three are so unique. They're all coming out this fall and I just love this book. It's like a huge success and already. And I love what she's doing. We're going to have a feature about her up soon. So really, these are our big names, but we're going to have plenty more to talk about later on in the fall.
45:54So thanks for sharing, Eliza. You too. Eliza, how are you doing? I'm good, Matt. How are you? We're doing a series of segments that are previewing our great fall season. We haven't seen every book, so we're not calling these the best and the greatest. We haven't been able to assess everything, But these are books that have jumped off the Amazon page, off of the books, our magic page, off of the omnivore pages, our favorite indie retailers. They're the ones that really we're looking forward to. And again, plant forward is the category. What is your first book to chat about? My first book to chat about is called Easy Indian Vegetarian by Chetna Makan.
46:31Chetna's name you might know from The Great British Bake Off. She also has done a couple of cookbooks, including Healthy Indian Vegetarian, which came out in 2020, which was one of my kind of comfort books during the early pandemic. I think she makes really great recipes and I'm just excited to have a new one from her to add into my rotation. Yeah, I'm a big fan of Jenna and I love that she is maybe going to come to New York and do an interview in our studio. So we'll look forward to that. My first book is The Weekday Vegetarians Get Simple from Jenny Rosenstrock. Jenny is a longtime friend of the pod and has published a number of books.
47:06We may know Jenny from Dinner, A Love Story, a series of books from about a decade ago. But The Weekday Vegetarians is a popular sub stack. And Jenny is just one of my favorite recipe writers, like straight up. She makes really accessible, simple recipes that have vegetables and are vegetarian focused. She's not saying that you should always have a vegetarian diet, but she's mostly cooking vegetable focus and vegetarian focus. These are 100 accessible stress-free recipes to make plant-forward cooking more streamlined. And really, she's focusing on the streamlined part here. Some of her, I would call more of her streamlined recipes in this collection include sheet pan gnocchi with butternut squash, mushroom charred bread pudding, crispy eggplant bowls with pistachios and basil.
47:52So she's really using the larder that we all have around and really focusing on streamlining dinner, getting it out on the table in an hour or less. And I just love Jenny's recipe writing. So this is a terrific collection. What's your next one? I just want to say the idea of a savory bread pudding really speaks to me. So I'm excited about that book as well. Totally. I love a savory bread pudding. It's actually great for like entertaining. People like a bread pudding. It looks nice on the table. Yeah. And it's just comfort food purely. Totally. The last book I'll talk about is called Big Vegan Flavor.
48:22And it's by Nisha Vora. And it is truly a big book. It's 600 pages. and I think is kind of just hitting on this idea of cooking like fully plant-based, really craveable, delicious food in so many different ways. Nisha Vora has a really big following on Instagram and TikTok. Rainbow Plant Life is her handle, which you've maybe seen before. And I think there's just a lot of recipes in this book that I'm really excited to cook. And the techniques behind them are cool. Like there's a recipe for miso butter seared king oyster scallops. So she's turning mushrooms into a scallop, but she's brining them ahead of time, which is what gives it this really good kind of texture to make it really tender, which I have cooked many mushrooms in my life, but I've never brined them before cooking.
49:01So I'm excited about that. There's also a recipe for like a chai spiced custard tart with mango, which just sounds like something I want to eat a lot. And I think this is another example of somebody who's developed a really big following online by knowing what people really want to eat and figuring out how to make it easy to actually cook. And so it's cool to see that be translated into a book. I'm really looking forward to that one. And speaking of big books, this is an absolute doorstop. Mastering the Art of Plant-Based Cooking from Joe Yonan. I've gotten a chance to actually hold this book.
49:34We got it pretty early here in the office. It is a really amazing book to hold. It is 300 mouth-watering recipes for flavorful staples, weeknight meals, and celebratory feast. Now, Joe Yonan is a name that we all know. He's the food and dining editor at the Washington Post. And he wrote a regular column called Weeknight Vegetarians. And really, I like Joe's sensibility. These are extremely well-tested recipes. And I'm just a fan of tackling this topic and calling it Mastering the Art. Wow. He's delivered on the promise. And it's 300 recipes. That's like a lot, like 300 recipes. A couple of those include smoky eggplant harissa dip, a citrus and mango salad with fresh turmeric and cucumbers, Enchilada Five Ways and Black Sesame Swirled Cheesecake.
50:22So he's really covering the gamut of plant-based cooking. And really, he also has a lot of great reporting in there. You know, this gentleman is a editor at the Washington Post. So he takes the journalism really seriously. For anyone who's trying to get more into plant-based cooking, this would be my pick. It's really a big book and I enjoy it. Yeah, I think it's cool. Also, his last book, Cool Beans, was the title. It was a bean book. is kind of, I think, like a step on the way up to this one because beans are obviously such a huge staple when you're doing plant-based cooking. So I like that he kind of mastered one corner and then said, okay, let me take a whack at the whole spectrum.
50:59Well said, Eliza. And I agree. He's really like, his ambition is super high with this book. And again, I can't imagine the proposal, 300 recipes is like tremendous. And I don't think you're gonna be disappointed with this book. There's so many more plant-based books to talk about throughout the year and we will, but thanks for sharing yours.
51:20This is Taste is hosted by Eliza Abarbanel and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is produced by Shalia Harris and Pat Stango and edited by Clayton Gumbert. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Visit Taste online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all cool things that are happening.
From the publisher
All fall, Aliza and Matt have been talking about many of the season’s new cookbooks, from the biggest “influencer” books to baking, memoir, biography, and the return of restaurant books to the mix. Here is a recap of some of their favorites from the busy fall—and a solid reminder that cookbooks make amazing gifts! If you like one of the titles mentioned, pick up a copy at one of our favorites stores, including Now Serving (Los Angeles), Omnivore Books (San Francisco), Kitchen Arts & Letters (New York City), Book Larder (Seattle), Golden Hour Books (Newburgh, NY), Bookbug (Kalamazoo, MI), or your preferred independent bookstore.
Do you enjoy This Is TASTE? Drop us a review on Apple, or star us on Spotify. We’d love to hear from you.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices




