513: Hype, Aesthetics, and Very Good Pizza with Chris Hansell (Chrissy’s Pizza) and Brooks Headley (Superiority Burger)

18 Dec 2024 · 1 h 7 min

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In short

Podcast Notes: This Is TASTE - Episode 513: Hype, Aesthetics, and Very Good Pizza

Episode Overview In this episode, hosts Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard welcome Chris Hansell, the founder of Chrissy’s Pizza, and Brooks Headley, chef of Superiority Burger. The conversation explores their journeys in the food industry, touching on their backgrounds in music, the aesthetics of food, and the craft of pizza-making.

Key Themes and Discussions

Introduction

  • Hosts: Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard
  • Guests: Chris Hansell (Chrissy’s Pizza) and Brooks Headley (Superiority Burger)
  • Setting: Recorded live, reflecting on a busy year for both guests.

Personal Backgrounds

  • Music Influence:
  • Both guests have roots in the punk-rock scene, which influences their approach to food.
  • They discuss how the punk ethos translates into dedication to craft and visual identity in their culinary work.

Chris's Journey to Pizza

  • Origins:
  • Chris began as a home cook during COVID-19, documenting his pizza-making process on Instagram.
  • He had a strong personal connection to pizza through his father, which fueled his obsession with the craft.
  • Professional Growth:
  • Transitioned from home cook to professional pizza maker through experience in various pizzerias.
  • Highlighted the importance of learning from seasoned pizza makers.

Brooks's Culinary Philosophy

  • Superiority Burger:
  • Brooks reflects on the evolution of Superiority Burger and his dedication to using high-quality produce.
  • Discussed innovative approaches to vegetarian cuisine that reflect his commitment to craft.

Aesthetic and Visual Identity

  • Visual Presentation:
  • Both chefs emphasize the importance of aesthetics in their food, drawing parallels between food presentation and album art from their music days.
  • Chris discusses the unique design elements of Chrissy's Pizza, including signage and overall vibe.

The Process of Making Pizza

  • Dough and Sauce:
  • Chris shares insights on his pizza dough and sauce-making process, emphasizing the use of high-quality ingredients and careful fermentation.
  • Discussed the balance of flavors, seasoning, and the emotional connection to their culinary creations.

Community and Collaboration

  • Mentorship:
  • Brooks acts as a mentor to Chris, providing support and advice throughout his journey.
  • The importance of community and collaboration within the restaurant industry is highlighted.

Future Aspirations

  • Growth and Identity:
  • Chris expresses gratitude for the support and popularity of Chrissy’s Pizza, while Brooks shares insights into the evolving menu at Superiority Burger.
  • Discussion of maintaining authenticity while adapting to demand and creating a unique dining experience.

Quickfire Questions

  • Favorite Fruit:
  • Chris: Pineapple
  • Brooks: Apricot
  • Worst Vegetable:
  • Chris: Kale
  • Brooks: Potatoes
  • Best Dessert:
  • Chris: Affogato
  • Brooks: Banoffee pie at the Spotted Pig
  • Favorite City for Food Outside the U.S.:
  • Chris: Mexico City
  • Brooks: Tokyo
  • A Restaurant They Wish They Could Bring Back:
  • Chris: Northeast Kingdom
  • Brooks: Village Yokocho

Conclusion The episode concludes with reflections on the intersection of food, music, and community, showcasing the passion and dedication of both Chris Hansell and Brooks Headley in their culinary endeavors.

Hosts

  • Aliza Abarbanel
  • Matt Rodbard

Production Team

  • Producers: Shalia Harris and Pat Stango
  • Editor: Clayton Gumbert
  • Theme Music: Steve Rydell

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For more insights and episodes, visit [Taste Cooking](https://tastecooking.com).

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Transcript

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0:00This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. Resi is a digital platform that connects restaurants to restaurant lovers by elevating dining experiences, providing original industry content, and helping to fill some of the country's most exciting dining rooms. Because restaurants have always been more than just places to eat. The amazing world of restaurants is just a few taps away in the Resi app and at resi.com.

0:31I mean, I like things to be seasoned to the point of, I always describe it as like you're walking up to the cliff and it's seasoned to the point where you're standing on the cliff and you're safe. You're not going to fall off. But it's like one micron more salt and you're like almost going to fall off and that's not good. Like you want to be like comfortably standing on the cliff. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbard. It's been a really busy year for our two guests, Chris Hansel of Chrissy's Pizza and Brooks Headley of Superiority Burger. Brooks finally came on the show. I really, really enjoyed this conversation with two big thinkers and, dare I say, dreamers.

1:14As former musicians, each are rooted in the punk rock ethic and aesthetic. And we talk about how visual identity and dedication to craft dovetails with music and food in such a unique way. Chris shares the story of coming to pizza from a simple apartment pop-up to running one of the buzziest openings in New York City this year. And Brooks reflects on two years of Superiority Burger on Avenue A and his continued obsession for finding the highest quality produce for his cooking in the East Village. What a fun talk. I hope you enjoy it.

1:59Chris Hensel and Brooks Hadley, welcome to This Is Taste. So great to see you guys. IRL, what's up? Thank you for having us. Thanks for having us on. We got the double. I love it. We haven't done a double in a while, but. You got us to Midtown. I got you guys to Midtown. Chris, this is just like day off. You just opened Chrissy's a few weeks ago. So thank you for making the time. Of course, of course. Brooke's been goading you on the show to come on the show for like maybe two years. So we're here. Excellent. So I like to start and just find out where you're both are dining in New York when you're not working.

2:29Chris, I'll start with you. So let's see. Yeah. So the place that I frequent the most, honestly, besides sitting at the bar at Superiority Burger in Eden, is Cozy Royale in Williamsburg. It's just like so consistent. Every time it's got a great vibe, it's always bustling. but it's not like over like overly loud or whatever and it's just like the coldest martini in town i love eating their steak frites and i need a cold martini on my free time yeah yeah two or three post shift yeah yeah um that's that's where i've been going the most um in the last year or so and then there's also a place called formosa that opened like 20 steps from my apartment in bushwick um it's like a taiwanese dumpling spot that yeah it's been around for just about a year now or maybe they just celebrated their year anniversary but it's like just go there I could walk out of my house and go right in have dumplings or have a beef noodle soup and just like relax by 20 feet from your house yes yes yes it's like a steps away 0.1 miles all right uh brooks what about you what do you what do you when you have a moment to to get away from the restaurant where do you like to go uh it's pretty hard to pry me away I know 119 avenue a but if I do go anywhere it's usually bread and salt yeah i was gonna say up on the cliff overlooking manhattan yeah i had like three other places listed and the next one was bread and salt like if i can get out to see rick or brooks especially we just get to hang and yeah rick's rick's food is unlike anything else you know i love rick easton yeah he's been the show uh great cookbook author too big fan of that book what what's is rick doing anything for the holidays what do you know do you know what's the word on bread and salt these days i mean there's always the when rick does his panettone it's very very special yeah so he's doing it maybe yeah he always he always says stuff like he's gonna turn bread and salt into christmas village that would be fun to go to what a what a great guy and did you learn from rick when you were starting your focaccia journey of course yeah Yeah.

4:32How'd that collab work with him? I mean, Rick developed a recipe for us, and then we kind of took it from there. And that was a while ago. That was 2017. Yeah. Yeah, Rick and I have a really good barter system going where I make stuff for him, he makes stuff for us, and we've never once exchanged cash. Yeah. I even gave him our old ice cream machine. He made tons of bread for us during COVID. I've tried to do the barter system with other people and it breaks down immediately the fact that this one's been going on since 2017 is pretty cool. It's a special relationship I mean the ice cream machine must have got you some bread couple loaves.

5:11Definitely Yeah those things are not cheap Well I wanted to have you both in to talk about two different topics you know we're going to talk about Chrissy's Pizza and the launch we're going to talk about Superiority Burger two full years you've operated about We're getting there we're in the second year You're in the second year year and a half-ish So you're like in it. You're past that one year. So we're going to get into that. But I want to start with you, Chris. It's been a really fun journey to follow on Instagram. And when I posted my weekend slices, I mean, it lit up. Like I post stuff on for about food all the time.

5:40It's like my thing, many of our things. And people were like, how is it? What is it? How are they doing? What's the line? Now, that's great news. And I want to get a sense from you. How did you get this following? You know, you started with doing pies in your apartment over COVID, but like there's like a lot of great pizza in this city. But you got this following. It's very cool. I don't know. I don't have an answer for that. I literally made an account before COVID just to document. I started teaching myself how to make pizza because I have been obsessed with it my whole life because of my dad.

6:14My dad is no longer around. And my best memories with him were like going to pizzerias in Queens and Valley Stream when I was a kid. and my dad's like kind of crazy set of rules for different spots like he'd be like this place you have to order the pie well done because they're very busy and if you don't order it well done it'll come undercooked because they're just trying to crank him out or like this place has the best square slice this place has sesame seeds on the crust we like this place like so i got obsessive about food or pizza specifically at a young age because he just had this like crazy brain like he didn't he he was a he was a fine cook at the house you know making sausage and peppers or whatever But like he just had this like when he was going out to eat, he wanted it to be perfect.

6:54So our memories were like pizza. So after he passed away, I kept going to different pizzerias by myself or with friends or like on tour. Like I'd be in Mexico City and try to find a pizzeria to try that anywhere I am. And so around 2019, I just got the itch to just like teach myself how to make it. And I made an account and I would just post my progress. And I never did anything. I never did any marketing. I don't know anything about marketing. I just posted pizza and, you know, just like this pie sucked or whatever. Yeah. But when COVID hit, I had a lot more time on my hands. So I was able to read and read and read and read.

7:36And I would make dough and it would rest for three days. And I'd make a pizza and it would suck. And I would throw it in the garbage. and I would stew all night about it like in my room but since I didn't have to go to work the next day I could I just like went online and tried to read about fermentation and and you know the dough process and I found these forums literally called pizzamaking.com they look like like a GEOCD's website from the 90s um and there's just so many old heads and like pizzeria owners home cooks on there just like sharing information so I would just read and read and read and I would try and fail and try and fail and then i would try and it would be kind of good and i'll try again and get a little bit better over you know a long time um but all i ever did was just post pictures of pizza like on my kitchen table and sure like i like brooks and i come from music and um like album art and photos and aesthetics are important to me and i think that and to brooks as well so yeah sure i would like i i think that like with a shitty iphone i could take a good photo of my pizza if I just like hold it a certain way or like have the light hit it in a certain way so maybe the photos looked good but like I literally just posted progress I would literally just write regular you posted through it I would just I love it type in all caps like regular pie yeah and people would start following and my friends were like that looks really good I'd feed them sometimes and then it just kind of kept going well then you you go pro you start actually selling it out of your your apartment how do you make that the decision and I didn't I didn't start immediately selling it.

9:10I was making it, making it through 2020. And then, so after about a year and things started opening up in 2021, I, um, I was like, I can't, I'm not going to sell pizza out of my house without working in pizzerias. I like all my first jobs were restaurant jobs, but I hadn't cooked in a long time professionally. So I literally sent an email. The scars was looking for people i sent an email i was like listen i don't have a resume i haven't cooked in a long time professionally um here are photos of pieces i've made in my apartment oven yeah and john the manager at the time hit me back and was just like yeah come in for a trail and so i trailed at scars two two or three times it was between me and some other guy that had like tons of pizzeria experience so they hired him during this time crushing i mean come on a little bit a little bit crushing Crushing, for sure.

10:03Yeah. But I'm glad that I didn't end up working there because Scars was one of my favorites in the city. And I think that if I worked there, maybe my relationship with that pie would be different at this point, you know? But during that time, I became friendly with Andrew Bellucci, who's no longer with us, had a pizzeria in Queens. He had just opened it. I went there to eat pizza. He was on those forums that I spoke about earlier. And he would just – I would ask him a question. He would give me as much information as possible. He never held anything back. He was just so through my relationship with him, I told him I applied at scars.

10:36He was friends with scar. He kind of tried to put it in a good word for me. And then, you know, I didn't get the job. And Andrew was kind enough to be like, come work at my shop. Man, that's that's cool. So that was my first pizzeria job at his first location in Astoria. You know, I learned so much from that guy. Like my vodka sauce recipe is based on his like, which is like one of our craziest selling specials when I run it. And so I worked there. For a few months. And then I jumped to Lindistry. That's where I spent the most time. Yeah. You're used to lines then working in industry. That's where I learned.

11:11Williamsburg location? Yes. That's where I learned really how to hustle. Because I was on their slice line. And then they top every slice to order. So it's full on like a garmage. So that's where I learned speed. And I made pizza there. I never messed around. At any of these places, I never messed with dough. or I didn't know their recipes. I was just learning how to work the oven and crank. And then I worked there for the long, I can't remember how long it was, eight months or something. And then I did a short stint at FNF because my friend Maddie is the manager there. That's good in my book.

11:46I've said it many times on the show. It's my number one slice. It's a great slice. My one, that's my pony. I love it. What do you learn at FNF? Speed. Yeah. So I was mostly the oven guy at FNF. I made pizza too, but they could fit, they have two really long, wide pizza, like pizza master decks. Yeah. And if you load the oven, the way they load the oven, you could do 10 at a time. So, and then 10, 18 inch pies at a time between two decks and you have to rotate them in place like they're Neapolitan pies because you can't like pull them out over another one in the front. And so on a Friday or Saturday night, 10 pies at a time, like I, I mean, I burnt so many, when I first started there, I burnt so many pizzas and had to throw out so many.

12:26But you know, I remember going through a crazy service once and didn't, you know, we, we cranked it out and did a good job. And, and my friend Maddie was just like, cool, man, just, just do that. Keep doing it. That's amazing. And then the Sicilians there too are pretty good. That's my, that's my one. But they would sell out, those would sell out pretty quick. And Maddie, Maddie used to work at Superiority. There's all sorts of links. Yeah. And so Brooks, let me ask you, how did you and Chris hook up? And I, and I know So you're not financially involved in this project. You're a buddy. I'm just a super fan.

13:00I love that. So how did you guys meet up? And what did you see in Chris's pies that kind of, like, you're a chef and you've seen lots of great pies and you know bread development. And we'll talk about your focaccia. But what did you see in Chris? Actually, I heard from Matty that I had to try Chris's pizza. And so I sent Chris a DM and was like, hey, that was before you were selling it, selling it. It was just kind of around. I think it might have been like the first month I started selling. Okay. And yeah, and I got a pie and went downstairs, put it on top of your trash can and ate a slice while it was hot.

13:42and it was like I instantly instantly I was like this is different this is like you could taste the obsession that got that slice that I ate on top of the trash can you know and uh it's rare that I find I eat something and you can immediately feel the obsession you know yeah and Chris he responded to you with something you told me yeah um he just he sent me a text or a dm that just said like this is so special like what's your email address and so i gave it to him and i woke up the next day like i think i think that the time stamp on his email was like 7 a.m or 7 30 a.m and it was just like an eight paragraph long email about and each paragraph was about like how much he loved like the dough the sauce the cheese and how special it was and it was like you know i mean me and brooks like have a lot of mutual had a lot of mutual friends and like we'd see i'd go to old sb or we'd see each other at a show if i ever caught him at one and we'd like you know like maybe not our heads at each other like look at each other we should know each other but we never really like properly met and so that coming from brooks who he's gonna cringe me at me saying this but like who i respect so much as a chef you know i'm always cringing so do i i respect it was like huge for me it was like the first time i had like a like a like like recognition like that outside of like just my friends.

15:08So it was huge for me. And I was just like, okay, like, can I curse on here? Of course. So I was just like, so I was just like, fuck, like I got to keep doing this. Like, and so if I feel like I'm sure, I'm sure I would have kept going, obviously. But like that little stamp of approval from someone like Brooks was just like incredible to me and like, was just like, okay, like I need to just like keep going and keep working on this and making it better and better. And so that was like a big deal to me. Brooks, from the eight paragraphs, you know, what was the one element that stuck out the most?

15:34Is it his sauce? Because I got questions about that because I was into that. But what was the one thing that stuck out? Well, I ate one slice hot. And then I was like, fuck, I got to get home and just finish this, you know. So then I like called a car to go back to the East Village. And I'm just like tapping on the thing like, come on, man. Let's go, let's go, let's go. So I only ate one slice hot and the rest was, you know, I ate once it was at room temperature. But I think the first thing that hit me, and I know I put it in that email, was it felt like the cheese had been like poured on top of it.

16:13It was so perfectly cooked. And I couldn't understand it because I knew that this was being baked in a home oven. In Amana? That was the brand, Amana. Yeah. And I couldn't understand how something could, how this cheese could be in the oven for 10 minutes. Like a low moisture mozzarella? And come out like that, you know. It wasn't browned out at all. It wasn't, it was just like, it was this perfect like orange, like, it was just perfect. And that was the first one I had, so. Yeah. I mean, and you've continued just to be friends and you just eat the pies. Is that your relationship? Are you helping out with the opening of Chrissy's?

16:56So you must be offering some advice. Yeah, I mean, we talk a lot, you know, and I can offer as much advice as I have over for certain things that, you know, like. The last line in the email that he sent me was like, by the way, don't ever take any business advice from me. That's true. Well, I think, Brooks, you operate your businesses with a huge heart and less capitalistic impulses. And I feel like you, you offer a special point of service and menu. I feel, does it, does that crater your business plan sometimes? Just like your impulses to do certain things? Uh, sure. Yeah. I mean, I, uh, I oftentimes think that I could, I could have had like the most expensive, fanciest vegetarian restaurant in the world or whatever.

17:46Yeah. But I chose to go the opposite direction, you know? Yeah. And you're probably happier that way. I would imagine. Sure. Maybe. I mean, life is long, you know. No, maybe that. Yeah, there's always, I can always change it up. There's some hotel that I'm sure would want you to open that. Ooh, hotel. I worked at a Ritz-Carlton for a while, so. Yeah. I learned early on to like steer clear of hotel. I read your first book, cover to cover, maybe twice. It's terrific. You tell a lot of great stories in there about your past. Definitely pick that up. During the build out of Chrissy's, I kept thinking back to when me, like after that email, me and Brooks just became friends.

18:19We would hang, he asked me to come see the new space on 119 Avenue A. So, but it was gutted. It was completely good. But I went there and met him. We drank a beer. And he just walked me through the space so excitedly talking about how it's going to look and how it's going to be. And I'm just looking at this fucking mess. And I'm like, how is he so excited about this? There's just nothing in here. And so during my build out, when I was like, how is this going to come together? I kept thinking back about like how excited he was about 119 Avenue A and how like how special I should be, you know, thinking about the space.

18:53Because, you know, when something's gutted, you're like you're trying to see it so hard. But the way he had this insane vision when it was just like literally just like no ceiling, everything covered in plastic wrap, just like sheetrock all over the floor. Like it it's like it helped me a lot during during the buildup. That's true mentorship. I mean, just he knew that you were going to see some things that you eventually would use. Maybe or he was just excited about a restaurant. But, like, you know, at the time and then we just kept hanging out. And so when, you know, throughout my whole journey, like Brooks was always there.

19:27Like he gave me a place to make pizza when it got too popular in my apartment. I couldn't do it out of there anymore. Like I wouldn't have been able to get to where I am now without him. And so that's why we're doing this podcast. Yeah. You know what I'm saying? Well, we'll get to, I have questions about your specific pie, but when you're ripping up the old diner on Avenue A, what are you finding in that diner? I mean, I used to, I lived above Niagara for three years and like, so I went there all the time, but such an iconic space, but. No, of course. I mean, Odessa was always a favorite and I always, always loved the room.

19:59Oh, yes. And as soon as I found out that it was on the market, you know, found out on Craig, it was a Google alert because the owners put it up on Craigslist. And you had Odessa in your Google alert. Yeah. I'd actually been writing, I'd been writing the owner's letters for a couple months. I'm not the first person that was doing this. There were many people doing this. into sliding under the door yeah giving them to the uh superintendent of the building stuff like that um no idea if that helped getting the space or not but um i kind of consider myself like a i don't know a custodian of 119 avenue a because i've kept it pretty much exactly the same i mean not the kitchens the kitchens are brand new but the in terms of the public area it's exactly the same we refurbished or cleaned up the things that needed to be um ceiling tiles um you know like the molding on the ceiling got really repainted the the red ceiling in the back near the bar got repainted um but pretty much it's the same including the you know all of the upholstery and all the booths and the and the seats in the fountain are the same um and i'm gonna keep doing that keep not replacing things but just making it the same um obviously it's different food there's different artwork up um but whenever the time comes that superiority burger is done in that space whether that's a year from now or five years from now or 10 years from now or 20 years from now i'm an idealist to a fault so my dream as an idealist would be that whoever takes over that space next also leaves it the same and puts up their art and who knows maybe it becomes a seafood restaurant but still looks the same yeah or who knows 15 years from now 20 years from now maybe someone's like i want i want it to be odessa again and i've saved it for you you know yeah you could totally do odessa again now you just have a crazy kitchen to work a great kitchen yeah i mean Would you buy the building?

22:25I don't think I'm in any position to buy much of anything on a building. Well, that would be the pure custodial move if you own the building and you could just be the keeper of it. But it's a cool story that you have such—you've preserved the space, but you've created an environment with homage to New York. And in each of the corners, there's little homages and little shrines to some of our—you have the Sitema little section there. I love that. Is there a Down the Hatch up there? I can't remember. Yeah, there's a page of Down the Hatch framed on the wall. I love that. Who are some of the other New York City icons that you are paying tribute to with the art and the artifacts in your space?

23:08There's an amazing photo of Dojo on St. Mark's that should never have been discovered. It's from 1994, and it's my girlfriend... Who is from Honolulu? She had been on vacation with her dad and came to New York and She was just in she was cleaning out her mom's house and You know, wahoo and found this photo where it's and we blew it and we took it and blew it up next door at Luster But it's a very very detailed sharp image of the dojo patio and a bunch of crazy knuckleheads sitting in the patio, staring directly at the camera. And there's a woman outside with her kid, and she's got a Nobody Beats the Wiz bag.

23:59Classic. Mariko is completely blown out by the flash, so you can't even really see her. And it looks like she's holding a bunch of zines, but that's not really the case at all. They had gone to see a bunch of plays on Broadway, so she's holding playbills. But you can't see them, but you can really see the dojo awning and logo and the people in there and it's just this really amazing like snapshot of that particular time in the early 90s because like before i lived in new york when i was in bands and i would come to play shows or whatever like would always always go to dojo and get a ginger dressing yeah i mean they invented and the soy and you get the soy burger The soy burger, exactly.

24:43And those two dishes are like legend in East Village lore and New York lore. Yeah. I mean, I don't think I ever got anything else other than that there. And I like I've always liked having a restaurant where you go and you only ever get one thing and you don't even try anything. A hundred percent agree. That's kind of the same way. I know there's a couple of people. We have tons and tons and tons of regulars at SB, like almost to the point where it's ridiculous. those people that come three, four times a week. And there's a handful of people that come and only get one thing, and it's kind of cool.

25:15I love it. Bocacchi and collards? Is that a staple? Yeah, a lot of people will just come get that. Yeah. Well, Chris, back to you. I want to hear about the pie because I'm really curious about the anatomy of your pie because it's really special. I agree with you, Brooks. It's got a lot of thought and detail and care and love into it. And I want to hear about the sauce because I think you're using two domestic tomatoes, and we're fucking going there. We're going to like break this down. The sauce is so good. It's so good. And I've sat there and I've watched Chris make it and I'll try to make it and I can't.

25:51All right. Well, this is, this sets it up. I mean, and tell us what you want. I mean, obviously I feel like you're an open source guy, but. Yeah. I mean, I have to be because I learned from so many open source people. Like, you know, I can't, I'm not hiding. Also like my, my recycling's outside every, like three days a week, you'd see the boxes of tomatoes I use. You could see the box of chili. You know, you'd see all that stuff. I don't think it's ever about like the – of course you have to use high-quality products. I think I consider these – to me, they're high-quality products because they taste good the way that I prepare them.

26:25Something I'll say is that when Brooks first introduced me to Rick Easton, he was like, I want to bring Rick by your house to eat a pizza. And I was like, please don't fucking bring Rick to my house. He only uses stuff from Italy. He's going to hate everything that I make my pizza with. He's not going to like it. And Brooks was like, trust me, he's going to like it. And I was like, are you fucking sure? I was like, well, we have to go to Bread and Salt first, and I need to eat a bunch of his food before he comes over. And we did that. And then Rick came. He came upstairs. He saw me stretching, like pushing out toe on my kitchen table.

26:54And he was just like, are you just stretching on your kitchen table? And I was like, yeah. He's like, that's fucking awesome. And then just sat at the head of the table and just watched me. You nailed the Pittsburgh accent there, by the way. You nailed it. You got it. I call it the Rick accent. But I was so scared about feeding him because I use domestic tomatoes. People are always just like San Marzano, San Marzano, San Marzano. And Brooks, for a long time, used like Gusto Rosso tomatoes and stuff like that. So it was intimidating. I'm like using a California tomato that's not Bianco DiNapoli, and I'm using a New Jersey tomato.

27:27Tell me about that. Jersey. Because I feel like the Stanislavs we know about, we know about the DiNapoli products. but Jersey tomatoes and pizza hasn't crossed my way that much, I'll say. Well, I mean, have you eaten pizza in New Jersey? I mean, my sister-in-law owns an amazing pizza. I'll shout it out. Franny's in Highlands, New Jersey. Tip of the Jersey Shore. Some of the best pizza I've ever eaten in my life is in New Jersey. Pizza Town, USA, and Elmwood Park. It's a perfect pizza. But Jersey tomatoes are good. They're different than California tomatoes. This is coming from, I don't know, it's okay.

28:00I've been making pizza for like five years now, which is not that long of a time. But this is like from me mixing tomatoes I can only get at the grocery store when I was like, when I didn't have access to purveyors and things like that. So like mixing pastine with the fake San Marzano's that come in. The San Marzano, the white can. Yeah, the white can with the tomatoes. Those are funny. Like mixing those together or just like, or taking like Cento and mixing it with something or whatever. And then reading and reading and reading, what do I want from these tomatoes? And I found this place on Long Island called Sandstone Market.

28:36They're a purveyor. They're a vendor. But they have a retail arm where you could buy a case of Stanislaus tomatoes or grande cheese. And so that's when I was like, holy shit, I got to get out there. You got to plug. Yeah. So that's when I started mixing those big number 10 cans together. And it took me forever. I was messing around with tomato magic. I was messing around with Valoroso. I was messing around with like, yeah, I think I've tried every single Stanislaus product. And they're fucking good. Like, I don't like people like, oh, it's just like the same bullshit that everybody uses. It's not A, but like, it's also how you season them.

29:16And it's also how you treat them. And for me, mixing them with a Jersey tomato where a California tomato is super sweet. a jersey tomato is more uh like robuster or i don't know i don't know how to talk about food but mommy i guess yeah like it's it's a deeper bolder you know and so i think that when you mix the two together and i'm not going to say the ratios that i use but like you know i think that having that marriage and so like the jersey tomato i use is crushed the california tomato tomato i use is whole peeled so that together and then i i don't i don't mill them i don't think i don't think it's necessary a lot of people like to mill and get the seeds that would i just stick blend but um yeah and then just like i don't know restraint yeah restraint and upset like i don't know like people put so much in their sauce but like all good tomatoes really need is like a little bit of extra you know there's salt in some of them already but just like a little bit of salt of extra virgin olive oil too maybe that's like but like a little bit it doesn't really inform the sauce okay okay you're nearly any you're keeping it you're keeping it brooks your cooking too is restrained in the same way i feel like if you have your collard and focaccia dish you're not trying to guss it up with too much saucing you're not seasoning it you know in a way that shouts of like a certain it's just like a really precise you're tasting vegetable and you're having bread that is flavorful and developed do you do you have a similar point of view um i mean i like things to be seasoned to the point of i always describe it as like you're walking up to the cliff and it's seasoned to the point where you're standing on the cliff and you're safe you're not going to fall off like this but it's like one micron more salt and you're like almost going to fall off and that's not good like you want to be like comfortably standing on the cliff like like a i don't know like an influencer instagram photo that's just and not a terrible analogy but not the bad story where it's like the influencer dies and you hear that yeah yeah because that's bad because that's bad over salted food is just the worst you know yeah but the thing about um the thing about chris's food and i i like to talk about it and think about it as food not like just pizza grief is that i mean chris is a seasoning savant and i that's a huge that's a compliment um in fact so to one point where when chris was still doing the pizza out of his apartment um hannah and aaron from quarter sheets in la were coming to town and i and had told me they were coming to town i was like i will figure out a way that you can come eat chris's pizza you you have to try it you know and um i think you made us a regular pie and then i did one with um long hots and long hots and like like not fully caramelized, but just like a little bit lighter, like super buttery onions and a sesame seed crust.

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32:11Right. And I remember like we were eating it, you know, just sitting there, like the three of us just sitting there like, what the fuck? You know, and, you know, you're like in typical like self-deprecating mode. It was like, I don't know, I'm not a chef. And I remember Hannah looked at you and she's like sitting there and she goes, honey, you're a chef. that's so great phil hannah came in the next day to record with us because i recall she's like i was just some random guy's apartment eating pizza and here he is it's chris sitting before us and chris back to you let me ask you about the the dough and and setting up a dough program you're doing like 150 pies a day 160 160 like going from this this like at home pizzeria you obviously have the industry experience and you you saw high volume industry but how do you think about your dough program and like is it like are there like oh fuck moments like the dough isn't working the dough is not we don't have enough um not yet uh okay good next question no no um so this is the first time i've ever let anybody else touch my dough to opening this shop which is like you know i i think that like most chefs can like oh someone else is making my food um but there's this amazing guy named Luis who's who's from Chile and and he's like a punk guy so it was easy for us to get along and he was actually a dough guy at Lindistry prior but my dough is completely different than theirs like I have no I don't know what Massimo does um for his dough and and that's good that you don't know good because I don't want any of that I don't want my pizza to that's what when I was talking about the pizzerias that I worked at I was hesitant because I don't want anybody to think that like any of where what I'm doing comes from that pizza like those pizzas are great and they're amazing but everything that goes into my pizza is from me being a psychopath in my apartment during COVID um yeah yeah that's basically it like I didn't I mean like there's some influence from from like classic spots but like but um but Luis is incredible and I had to show him multiple times because I do my like like so I taught myself how to make the dough so i fold it differently i i mix it differently like there's the way that like so he tried to seal my dough balls when he we were cutting and rolling when i was training him and he couldn't do it because i was like that shit is really hard because he was trying to do like the normal method like this pinch and and turn method and you can't for some reason the way i mix and i don't want to change it um you can't do it that way and so it took him a while but you know the dough is like better than ever and i just can trust him he's there right i'm here talking to you and he's at the shop right now making Thursday uh Fridays so it's like over 50 60 hours 55 I think it's about 55 between like the the way it sits out at room temp before like during the mixing process and then before service but um yeah 55 I used to do 72 yeah but um it's not you can't really organ you have to have more fridge space more fridge space and I have my my place was a coffee shop prior so it's very small you saw it oh I saw it yeah and we'll have a basement but but anyway yeah it's like it's it's a it's a 55 55 or maybe a little bit more hour cold fermented dough there are no pre-ferments there is no sourdough um i'm not against them in general but i am against them for my pizza um it's just a direct dough that's handled with care and fermented for a long time and again like and again the time is not it's just not just a number it's flavor like we're talking about developing flavor how do you think about that with your with your with your bread your bread program it was tough for me to be like okay i can't go full 72 unless i do a poolish or a biga or something like that and i didn't want to do that i don't like for my pizza i don't like the flavor profile i like that so like one of a huge influence for me is like a place like um like king umberto and elmont or whatever like giovanni like he he his dad, they're still using this classic dough, this direct ass dough I think they throw the pate fermenté method where they throw some old dough into the new mix which is awesome but then he's messing around with Roman style and these metro pizzas it's cool, that's a huge influence for me because I can go there still and eat that slice and remember the exact time I was there with my dad when I was a kid but then also try his Sfinchone and all these newer things he's messing around with it's about flavor development and what and how you think about i think about that dough like which is like it's pretty like i talked to him he's pretty open about it like you know their classic regular pie he's like yeah we do like the old dough and the new mix it's like this hydration whatever whatever um it's just i think that all i learned was that time and care develops that flavor so i like 55 hours 60 hours i think 72 is good too but it's a little bit riding on the edge depending on like the temperature or whatever, like the possibility of over-proofing.

37:08And I think that the way I mix it, which is, I don't know why I do it the way I do. Yeah, but it sits out for a certain amount of time before it goes in the fridge. It sits out for a certain amount of time after it comes out for service. And I think that the flavor is great. And I think that, and it's hard for me to say that because as Brooke said, like I'm pretty self-deprecating about my food. But it hits me where I'm like, my dad would love this. And so that's all. That's all I give a shit about. There's that Jeffrey Steingarten essay about pizza in one of his books where he talks about specifically New York pizzerias as being these prehistoric bakeries that are on every street corner, you know?

37:49And that's such a cool way to think about it, especially thinking about this new Chrissy's. It's this prehistoric bakery that does one thing really well. That's cool. It's very cool. And thinking about pizza areas as bakeries is an amazing thought and something we tried to further on the show. It really does come down to the bread development, the flavor development with your bread program. Let me ask you about finding the spot on Nassau in Greenpoint, picking Greenpoint, a place that has great pizza. Well, you can go to any neighborhood in New York and have great pizza. And the early word is that this is pizza you can't miss.

38:25And I visited last weekend. And lines are – I won't give it times, but there were maybe like 50 people in line. What's that like to have a pizzeria just like blow up like that? I thought it was going to be busy, but I didn't know it was going to be this busy. I did. Yeah. Word is out. It's been a – so Monday was our last day of service. We were closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays for now. That marks a month we've been open. And the line has never stopped. And it's crazy. But for me, luckily, I'm buried kind of in the back by the oven. So I don't see it. And it forms not in front of my store or going in front of my window.

39:07It's to the left. So if I look out, I can see the first person in line, but I can't see how far down the block it goes. And so if I saw it, I'd probably freak out and get nervous. But I'm just stuck there. I make every single – yeah, that's another thing. I make every single pizza that comes out of the shop. It's me. There's nobody else that tops and launches them. It's me. I have a guy running the oven named Aqbal who's incredible, who used to work at S.B. Also, he worked at S.B. Yeah. I see the path. My friend Dristan is pushing them out a little bit for me so I can go faster when it comes time.

39:39But it's me making every single pizza. So I don't really have a second to think about the line. I just have to go. I'm grateful that people want to eat it that bad. Do I like that they're waiting for a long time? No, but people are talking about it, and so people are lining up. How do you mitigate it, though? Like how do you – like from service, you know, you have somebody working the booth. And how do you make people not get super mad? David. David. Mercenary David. So David, who also used to work at Superior. He's the sweet giant man who controls the line. He's my expo guy. He controls the line.

40:15Very nice guy. He's the best. So he'll go out 2 o 'clock. We open at 2 o 'clock. He'll go out at like 1.59 or 2 o 'clock and just make these announcements and tell people how it works and tell people, you know, what to expect and how if they want to stay they have to get it on a tray if they're getting it in a box the box has to go with them so the box is great the design loving that i mean it's just the classic it's just i mean i didn't want branded boxes it's just it's just a classic pizza box but he if i didn't have david who like has he he comes from he cooks but he comes from he was the door guy at international bar for a little while no way so he's got the gift of gab he's got the gift of security working line at international oh man that's a that's a great skill set to have yeah so i'm there wow he's he's the guy if i didn't have david because we have chelsea who also kind of like runs the joint she's the front of house person and runs the joint basically but she's a little bit less social than david so like it takes a lot of weight off of her and i think that he likes to be able to be outside it's just it's this incredible crew of people like it's everyone's a character it's amazing i mean it reminds me of sb of course i mean especially early days sb when you could really get to meet everyone in the space you know you you foster it's a similar sized insurance pretty close like pretty except you have i have a basement but yeah it's funny when i saw the space i was like shit this looks like old sb yeah well i want to ask you i'll start with you brooks you know you each have spent time playing in bands and you know i I think bands inform restaurants in unique ways.

41:47Of course, there's the soundtrack and having band signifiers and merch around and having a vibe. But really, let me ask you, Brooks, there's this mentality that touring musicians have. There's ingenuity. There's thinking on the fly. There's a lot of skills that you gain on tour. How does that relate to restaurants? And how have you been able to channel your previous careers in music to make these restaurants so special? I mean I don't really think that there's like any sort of direct connection if you've been in a band and you run or work in a food operation I mean at this point like pretty much almost everyone has been in a band yeah but the for me it's the and this doesn't necessarily apply directly to someone that was in a band or in a touring band or in a touring band that made no money and slept on people's floors or whatever is just going back to what I was saying before is obsession um i think it was like one of my favorite john waters quotes is like without i'm gonna fuck this up but without obsession you have nothing you know um and when you are in a band like you're you're working together and you have a singular focus you know and you're and and typically all four or five or six or two or one person is completely obsessed with the project at hand and because you have to be um so i tend to look for people that have that feeling or that vibe of obsession um even if they weren't necessarily like in a shitty punk band or whatever but um i can count off on my hand like a like a bunch of people that have worked at sb that have contributed massively to like the operation just based on their obsessive nature with food you know so i think uh yeah one of my other favorite quotes is michael lasconis the old pastry chef from la bernadette would always have this cuisine or death oh i love that guy i love that love that love that mention michael what about you chris what how does the band your band background like help you open chrissy's i don't know that how it helped me open chrissy's necessarily i mean i mean i similarly to what brooks i mean like what brooks said makes total sense i also just think that uh i always like to say that and i've said this to brooks multiple times is that like coming from um punk or hardcore and stuff like that like it just immediately gives you the upper hand in life because it kind of does because it's like you know it's like doing everything yourself putting out your own records going on tour booking them by yourself you have these organizational skills that like don't come that you didn't learn in school i didn't go to college so like i didn't learn any of these things in school i learned them through playing music and trying to just you know perform in front of people and have a good time but also i think that because uh punk and hardcore so special uh there's these aesthetics in it that influence like how like you said like how did your pizza get so popular like i don't know like i just posted for i like to make something look cool like i'll take a good photo of the pizza or whatever but through album art and photos of old books like documenting the 80s hardcore scene and stuff like that's like you have these you have like it's the coolest art in the world it's like the best art so it's like if you get to be into cool stuff your whole life what we or what i consider like the coolest shit like i i think that like does like having chrissy's like the the design aesthetic my friend sean did the sean joyce southpaw signs like did like the sign and and did the windows and did the new logo and all these things like because we can't but he knew exactly what to do for me because he also grew up going to I mean you have the upper hand in aesthetics I mean you have confidence and you have a point of view which I think is two things point of view is huge in restaurants and food and if a place doesn't have a point of view it feels weird well yeah when it's farmed out to an agency or a fancy restaurant designer and it's meant to fit an audience you're thinking about audience first but both of you are singular and you're not thinking about your diners in terms of the aesthetic you're thinking about your own vision right Mm-hmm.

46:02Yeah, 100%. Brooks, I've wanted to have you back because I think my – I've been to Superiority, I think, three or four times this year, and each visit is extremely memorable. And I think a lot of our listeners have been and left with an impression of innovation, especially on the pastry side. You're always with gelatos, ice creams, sorbets, and, of course, all the plated desserts are always changing in a way that's exciting. What's year two? What's the theme like right now of your second year? Do you have a general sense of how things are going? We had a pretty creative and solid year starting in kind of the late spring, pretty much right when the market really started ramping up.

46:48For Old SB, it was a lot of, what can I say, like it was a tiny menu and then like specials constantly i mean that's not totally accurate some some of the of the specials we did run every day too and when we first opened up uh the new sp it was such a massively different operation in terms of uh amount of staff and amount of covers and this and that um so I wasn't able to initially like have it be as insanely changing and crazy as possible and that's just you know because you know the whole thing with you open up a restaurant and you all of the reviews and all the attention is immediate like within seconds of opening within a day of opening that kind of thing and you always get better you know and it's just i mean it's the way it is i'm not complaining about that um but the uh yeah we've had a really good year in turn and a lot of really awesome people uh filtering in and out of the kitchen um so moving into the winter now you know getting into like potentially the third year as we have just an arsenal of specials that are non-seasonal um that i don't have to necessarily worry about specific things coming from the market because of their hat they happen to be in season at the same time like i'm still deeply into like micro seasonality when the opportunity emerges like you know that perfect moment in early october where there's uh new crop apples and raspberries at the same time and they kind of taste the same and that's so cool um but if you don't go to the market for two weeks you miss the whole thing um i love stuff like that or like you know when the kiwi berries start um and why the fuck do kiwi berries grow upstate but actual kiwis don't like that's so weird so cool um but being able to like grab things and that's something that i uh i really like to make sure that the staff at sb knows is that like you know we are going to the market as much as possible to like because sometimes you miss a week you miss something yeah um and that doesn't necessarily mean like we're only using market produce because that'd be impossible but um it's really important to me to like you know know the farmers that you're dealing with and know what know what they have coming know what is available and like you know there's certain things like i'm trying to think of a good example but there it's it's it's so many different things where say like a nectarine is amazing one week and then maybe it was only amazing that one week and then it kind of like it's still great and you can still get it and you can still do something beautiful with it but that one week where it's you don't have to do anything to it and it's such an incredible sensation you know it's amazing i think we had a great stone fruit season in new york this year i thought it was like last year was crummy it was like really bad for whatever reason but talk about farmers you like i i would love to know like who are the guys you're hitting up i mean we get a ton of stuff from campo rosso um there are fridays at union square um occasionally it seems like uh the sp instagram is just are just commercials for campo rosso um but yeah they they they i've had a deep kinship with them since the restaurant started um chris and jesse um because they they do a lot of things that are kind of inefficient in order to get like the best possible thing and you know for example they're doing um sprouting cauliflower and sprouting romanetto and this like purple sprouting cauliflower that is so delicious and so crazy that like just a quick blanch and like gently salted water is just it's unbelievable and then if i make a sauce or something crunchy to go on it it's almost like not that important compared to like the actual raw product you know and like again that's not to say that like i'm only using that kind of stuff You know, our collard green sandwiches is, you know, we get boxes and boxes and boxes and boxes of collard greens that come off of a truck, you know, and that and those get pressure cooked into like silky awesomeness.

51:17But it's really special to be able to serve. And again, this goes back to obsession, like Chris and Jesse growing these things and getting the seeds from Japanese purveyors to do this thing. and then having to sell them per pound for a price that a lot of people might walk through the market and be like, oh my God, are you serious? But it's absolutely worth it. Absolutely. And you can go there on Fridays. They're at Union Square on Fridays. Yeah, Fridays, go early. So check it out. Go early, Campo Rosso. Can I just interject about Campo for a second? Yeah, yeah, yeah. To what Brooks was saying, like two years ago or something, he got me a bunch of Jimmy Nardellos and jalapenos from Campo Rosso and I did a special pie.

52:00This was what I was still doing at the apartment. That was just jimmies and jalapenos. And then I did piped ricotta on the finish. And I remember Brooks was like, so how did you prepare the jimmies and the jalapenos? He's like, what did you do to them? I was like, oh, nothing. I just sliced them because they're so fucking good. Right? When you just don't have to mess with it. Brooks, tell me, I'd like to know one dish that you feel that maybe less people know about on the menu. I know you've got your standards and your classics. But of course, there's other ones, some hidden gems. What do you want to call out?

52:34I feel that, like, I mean, the food at SB, like, it's a pretty small menu, our pink all-day menu at this point. I'm very proud of our French fries. It only took us, you know, 10 years to finally figure out a way to do it. And now they're offered all the time. You actually get them automatically with a burger. You can get a side. it's a tremendous amount of work and it's a tremendous amount of stress because potatoes are just brats you know but I think for me the thing that I think is really special about the new SB is our bar it's an amazing bar to hang out at it's a small it's the old Odessa bar Which which you never would have known it was there in some right like I have a few friends that between the two of them have claimed that they went to Odessa thousands of times and both of them are like I never sat at the bar.

53:38never and some people will say oh yeah i sat at the bar but for the most part people are like yeah i don't ever remember anyone sitting at the bar um but it's we basically had to rebuild it um because it was kind of falling apart but it's um we made a conscious a conscious choice um and our bar manager now gm fozzy butt who's kind of like legendary east village bar guy if you've ever had a drink at any east village bar in the past like 25 years it's pretty good chance that fozzy served you one of those drinks you know um and when fozzy and i were talking before we opened the idea was we didn't want to have any creativity in the cocktails we just wanted to do classics but with like deep deep deep care for fresh juices you know and we even And even to this point, and I think it's like I'm not really a cocktail guy, but I love the cocktails at Superiority Burger.

54:36You know, we have a ZoomX machine, which we let's say. OK, so we got the ZoomX machine because they're totally cool looking. And we put it in back of the fountain in the in the hopes that we would sell tons of fresh orange juice for brunch. We drastically overestimated the amount of orange juice people want, which is zero. And those things are a pain to clean, too, right? they're a pain to clean but it's our ice cream machine yeah but the quality of the juice that comes out of them it juices them juices the citrus so delicately um so we kind of use it mainly just for the bar for lemons lemons and limes and it just it as soon as we got that machine which was like a few months ago um it immediately like elevated the the quality of the the citrus and for the cocktails you know and um occasionally we'll have like a creative thing here and there for a special, but it's just so fun to sit at that bar.

55:33We have these amazing, amazing bartenders. Fozzie basically curated our bar with the best characters, like the kind of person, the kind of people that you want to serve you. And they're so nice, kind people. To me, my experience at your bar has been kindness. Yeah, it's fun. There's a great service. It's really, really fun. I mean, these guys, these are East Village guys. They're not like fancy suspender mustache guys. These are East Village guys. and gals. And I feel like the kindness and the hospitality has always been excellent at Superior de Borg. Yeah, it was funny. David and Anna from Elska in Chicago were in town.

56:09And they were doing a James Beer dinner and they had come in for lunch. And I was like, oh, after your dinner, you should come back and hang out at the bar. It's my favorite bar to hang out at. And David looks at me and he's like, don't get high off your own supply, by the way. Is Mark working? Mark Auerbald? Does he work in shifts? Oh, yeah. You'll see him around. A couple days a week. If he's working, it's the best. If Patty's working, it's the best. Yeah. We have all of our bartenders just fucking rule. No, it's a great bar. It's a great reminder to that. And also, if you're waiting for a table, you can always have a drink there.

56:38Sure. You could eat at the bar, too. I mean, you can eat at the bar. When you ask me where I like to hang out the most, I didn't want to say it because he's sitting right next to me, but it's like the bar at Superiority Bar. It's a good one. And shout out putting Al's Ale on there. Oh, yeah. I like that choice. Well, Al was a regular at Old SB for years. And then during COVID, he started that making his non-alcoholic beer. So it was sort of a given that we would that would be our non-alcoholic beer, which we actually sell a ton of it, too. So, no, it's a really nice beer and great reminder. On This is Taste, we ask guests about the discerning taste.

57:10So to close this interview, here's a little rapid fire, fast and furious. Taste check. Each of you, you're taking the test. Chris, you first. We'll go. We'll go each answer the question. Starting with you, Chris, the best fruit. Pineapple. apricot okay what makes a good apricot because they're hard to find i feel oh yeah i like them because you really almost never can you eat them raw like you have to develop the flavor yeah i like the challenge and when they're good they're so good ah so good the worst vegetable kale yeah please please please expand it just sucks it's weird on my stomach uh it's never like massaged correctly.

57:49It's like the mouthfeel stinks. I don't know. I just don't like it. You gotta try Nico's stuffed shells. Okay, maybe I'll try Nico's. There's probably a good kale in our city. I was opposed to. What about you, Brooks? What's your answer? Potatoes. I fucking hate potatoes. Was there like... No, I mean, I love potatoes, but I hate potatoes. But you hate... Oh, there's such pain in the ass. Alright, the best dessert? I was gonna say bread. But if I had to choose, it'd be like affogato or something like that. Oh, affogato, right. What's your pastry ambition up at Chrissy's? None. Maybe some semolina rolls.

58:26But, yeah, I mean, I don't have any pastry. I mean, I love fancy desserts. It's one of my favorite cookbooks. It's great. But I have no – I'm not a sweets guy. No cookie? No cookie? I mean, like a salty chocolate chip cookie would be the best. Bro, margin's nice. You'll then make some money. All right, Brooks, what about you? Favorite dessert? The banoffee pie at the Spotted Pig in 2006. That's my standard answer anytime anyone asks me. Like the most brilliant, perfect slice of dessert I've ever had. You came to play. I appreciate that. Favorite city outside America to visit for food? Mexico City.

59:03Can I say two? Sure can. Athens, Greece. Those are the two places I've ever had the best food in my entire life. Fuck, I've never been to Greece. I couldn't even tell you what I ate there. These are also places that I had the privilege of going on. I never would get to travel without touring. So stopping in a city to play a show or two and then eating is like the best thing on the planet. And the two places I've loved the most are Mexico City and Athens. Brooks, you? Most obvious answer, Tokyo. Yeah. It's like, again, going back to obsession, like, it's all great. It's all great? Never been still.

59:35I mean, pizza there. All right. There's really good pizza in Tokyo. There's good pizza in Tokyo. Okay, this is a big one for each of you. I'll start with you, Chris. a restaurant you wish you could bring back from the dead so my answer to that is going to be strange because it's just there's two there's two places that i just lived near for a long time that both closed around the same time uh northeast kingdom in bushwick like that burger was like insane um and i miss it very much and it's i think it's an artichoke pizza now so i'm sure you know how i feel about that yeah um and uh this other place called cafe guia that was like a couple blocks away from northeast kingdom that was just like my hangover breakfast spot just like the best the best breakfast and it was there for like six years and closed in 2016 or something like that.

1:00:17Good memory. How about you, Brooks? I mean, they're all so tied to specific time periods. Sure. That's what's good about this question. Let's go back there. Let's go back in time. Village Yokocho? Yeah. Like, What year though? Because it got the food kind of, it used to be, you know, I don't want to be, I mean, like just, just everything, like the, the, the yellows in the room and the serve, the service style. Oh, man. Like, it just was always fun, you know? Favorite cookbook of all time? Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, Marcello Hassan. Yeah. I mean, if I'm ever cooking at home, which I don't do ever, it's just making that tomato sauce, like the butter and half an onion, whatever.

1:01:00Yeah. It's the best. And I just, like, you know, have it in the shop. I always just like to look through it. It's nice to have you peeking there, looking at you every day. Yeah, yeah, exactly. That's nice. How about you, Brooks? I've said this a million times. The Last Course by Claudia Fleming, like the greatest dessert cookbook of all time. And also Eat Me, the Shop Sense book, just because it's the best. Yeah, it's a wonderful book, both of those. And Claudia's new version of The Last Dessert is available now. It's not out of print anymore, which is amazing. Yeah, yeah. I mean, I've pretty much ripped off every single dessert in that book multiple times.

1:01:37Do you guys have a relationship, you and Claudia? Oh, yeah. Claudia's my bud. Yeah, that's cool. That's cool. A favorite recent cookbook discovery? Bread and How to Eat It. Yeah. Rick Easton and Melissa McCart. It's just the coolest book. It's basically telling you not to make bread at home. Why wasn't Rick here, too? I know. We should have gotten Rick. I know. Rick should have been here. Can we do a trio one next time? We can. You guys are always invited back. It'd be great to have the three of you on, Mike. And that book is amazing because how do you publish a book here at Knopf and say, hey, you shouldn't make this.

1:02:09Yeah, but if you have to, here's something. It's a really, really cool book. What about you, Brooks? One that I hadn't had, and I actually just got like a couple weeks ago because I decided I wanted to tackle the seitan recipe, is the Xi 'an Famous Foods book. Oh, yeah. And so I've been basically trying to make their seitan like over and over again over the past couple weeks. I didn't make it yesterday, but I made it the day before. And I'm still not even close, but I'm learning. Yeah. And the whole method where you, you know, you start with flour and water and then let the dough rest and then wash all the starch off.

1:02:50And then you're left with like the 100 percent straight gluten. Just because like the every time I've had the cold skin noodles there, it's just it's. And the thing is that you learn in the book is the starchy water is the noodles and the gluten is the seitan in that dish. And that's so cool. Separation there is interesting. Last one, your favorite sandwich. It could be like a specific sandwich from a specific place. It could be a specific restaurant sandwich. It could be a general category. We will accept both answers. A cheesesteak with Cooper Sharp long hots and onions from Angelo's in South Philly.

1:03:28I got to hit that one. I don't know. His bread is so insane. Brooks and I talk all the time about how it's really nice when someone's cooking pisses you off. Or baking in this manner. His bread, I'm just like, fuck you. This is too good. It's opening on Avenue A. Yeah, I heard he's opening. It's called Danny and Coops or something. But yeah, I think it's on Avenue A. Oh, wow. Breaking news here. That's good. What about you, Brooks? Favorite sandwich? I was never, ever, ever into tuna melts ever for any reason. I was kind of like in general opposed to like tuna salad. But I was in L.A. over Labor Day and I had a tuna melt at Apple Pan.

1:04:12And it was a fucking straight up religious experience. And I don't understand. And I think that's my favorite sandwich now. So I can't wait to go back to L.A. so I can go back and get one. What's the factor? Is it the cheese choice? I watched I was sitting at the counter and I was watching the guys on the griddle like they just pulled the bread out of the bag they toasted it they took the ice cream scoop of uh tuna salad and there was a slice of I believe Tillamook cheddar and then some butter on the griddle and that's it and then it came with a little pile of pickles yeah and some uh can California black olives.

1:04:52Oh, shit. Nice. And it was, like I said, it was like a religious experience. I love that memory. Brooks and Chris, thank you so much for joining This Is Taste. Thank you. Thank you. Thanks for having us.

1:05:06This Is Taste is hosted by Eliza Abarbanel and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is produced by Shalia Harris and Pat Stango and edited by Clayton Gumbert. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all cool things that are happening.

From the publisher

It’s been a very busy year for our two guests, Chris Hansell of Chrissy’s Pizza and Brooks Headley of Superiority Burger. Brooks finally came back on the show! I really, really enjoyed this conversation with two big thinkers and, dare I say, dreamers. As former musicians, each is rooted in the punk-rock ethic and aesthetic, and we talk about how visual identity and dedication to craft dovetail with music and food in a unique way. Chris shares the story of his journey to pizza, from apartment pop-up to one of the buzziest openings in New York this year. And Brooks reflects on two years of Superiority Burger on Avenue A and his continued obsession for finding the highest-quality produce for his cooking in the East Village. What a fun talk!
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