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Podcast Episode Notes: This Is TASTE - Episode 538: New York in the ‘90s and Inside Culinary Class Wars with Edward Lee
Episode Overview Hosts: Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard Guest: Edward Lee, Chef and Star of Netflix's *Culinary Class Wars* Release Date: [Insert Release Date] Duration: [Insert Duration]
In this episode, Aliza and Matt reconnect with chef Edward Lee to discuss his experiences in the culinary world, his participation in the Netflix show *Culinary Class Wars*, his restaurant Shia in Washington, D.C., and his memories from the 1990s as a pioneering chef in New York City.
Key Themes and Discussions
Introduction to Edward Lee
- Edward Lee is a well-respected figure in American cooking, known for his innovative approach to Korean cuisine.
- He shares his experiences filming *Culinary Class Wars*, reflecting on the unique production scale, the challenges faced, and the cultural significance of the show.
Culinary Class Wars
- Edward discusses the intense filming process involving over 200 cameras and a large production crew.
- He highlights the competitive nature of the show and the challenges of cooking in a foreign language and environment.
- Edward emphasizes the importance of connecting with his Korean roots during the competition.
Reflections on New York City in the ‘90s
- Edward reminisces about his time at the restaurant Clay, which he opened in 1998, and his goal of modernizing Korean cuisine.
- He aimed to create a dining experience that allowed people to explore a variety of Korean flavors through smaller, tapas-style portions.
- He describes Clay as a neighborhood hub where people from all backgrounds came to enjoy Korean dishes, helping to popularize Korean cuisine among diverse diners.
Transition to Louisville and Shia
- After 9/11, Edward moved to Louisville, where he opened 610 Magnolia and began a new chapter in his culinary journey.
- Edward discusses the evolution of his culinary style and how his new restaurant Shia represents the next step in his journey, focusing on modern interpretations of Korean flavors while respecting tradition.
Insights into Korean Cuisine
- Edward reflects on the evolving landscape of Korean cuisine in America and the need to embrace and elevate traditional flavors without relying on Western techniques.
- He introduces the concept of a "third wave" of Korean cuisine that focuses on deeper historical connections and innovative presentations of traditional dishes.
Cooking and Cultural Connections
- Edward touches on the relationship between food, culture, and personal identity, especially as a Korean American chef.
- He expresses a commitment to using traditional Korean ingredients in innovative ways, aiming to connect with both younger and older generations.
Aliza’s Return from Asia
- Aliza shares her experiences from her recent trip to Taiwan and Thailand, discussing the vibrant food culture, unique ingredients, and the differences in dining experiences compared to the U.S.
- She mentions specific fruits and culinary practices that stood out during her travels, such as the wax apple and the culture surrounding boba tea.
Key Takeaways
- Culinary Innovation: Edward Lee emphasizes the importance of innovation in Korean cuisine while honoring traditional techniques and flavors.
- Cultural Appreciation: Edward's journey highlights the significance of reconnecting with one's roots and how personal experiences shape culinary identities.
- Dining Experience Evolution: The discussion about Clay and Shia demonstrates how dining experiences can change over time, adapting to cultural shifts and personal growth.
- Travel Insights: Aliza's experiences in Asia reveal the rich culinary traditions and cultural nuances that differentiate them from Western dining.
Conclusion The episode captures a rich tapestry of culinary insights, personal stories, and cultural reflections, showcasing the evolution of Korean cuisine in America through the lens of Edward Lee's career and the hosts' travel experiences.
Call to Action Listeners are encouraged to explore Edward Lee's work, visit his restaurant Shia, and consider how food plays a role in cultural identity and personal connection.
Visit TASTE online: [tastecooking.com](https://tastecooking.com) Follow Us: Subscribe to the podcast and leave a review on your favorite platform!
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. Resi is a digital platform that connects restaurants to restaurant lovers by elevating dining experiences, providing original industry content, and helping to fill some of the country's most exciting dining rooms. Because restaurants have always been more than just places to eat. The amazing world of restaurants is just a few taps away in the Resi app and at resi.com.
0:31the one thing i i made a promise to myself was that i wasn't going to do any purely western food on the show what's the point of going to korea and making a beurre blanc or you know making a a roux. I wanted to do things that related to my Korean journey. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbard. Chef Edward Lee is a good friend of mine and one of the most respected voices in American cooking. He's also one of the stars of the breakout Netflix cooking competition show, Culinary Class Wars. I'm sure you've checked it out. It's earned millions of fans for its unique approach at cooking competition on TV.
1:18On this episode, we hear all about the production and how Edward prepared for it, you know, in his hotel room. It's a pretty amazing little conversation there. We also talk about his new Washington, D.C. restaurant, Shia, and go back to his time cooking in New York City in the 1990s and the pioneering restaurant he ran called Clay. It's so great catching up with Edward, and I hope you enjoy this conversation.
1:54Edward Lee, welcome. This is Taze. Great to see you, my friend. How are you doing? I'm very well. How are you doing? Yo, I'm great. I can't believe we've never done a podcast. I've known you for a long time. I don't do a lot of podcasts. Okay. All right. Okay. Well, I feel blessed then. I mean, you really, I just really love your work. And we are friends. We've traveled to Vietnam and Korea and I've been to Louisville to your house. We're buddies. So this is going to be fun to catch up with you. I really want to start with that thing we did for NBC with Adrena Patridge, who I fucking love. I love her so much.
2:35She's really nice and really smart. Take me back to, we were in like Gangwon-do. What was that trip like for you? It was great. Gosh, that was so long ago. I know. I can't even remember. You know, that was one of the first, I guess, like video shoots I've ever done in Korea. So that was pretty cool. It was like really the first time. You know, I haven't been to Korea a lot in my adult life. So that kind of started in some ways. I guess it started sort of this reconnection with Korea. You know, and doing it with a reality star is pretty funny. Yeah, she was game. I mean, we went to Seokju up in Gangwon Do.
3:24and i recall it was like late late october and you're like getting the wetsuit on diving in with the hanyo and you know this was like i think 2016 2015 maybe so like the hanyo which i i love the hanyo and that's like a really cool story but like i feel like that was like one of the first times i i've seen like hanyo like recorded and you went and diving with them it was really cool no and they're i mean they're crazy i mean i i thought i was gonna drown and i you know like you don't know when you're down there because the you know it's the pressure and the cold the water and the currents and everything i thought i was down there for like three minutes and my lungs were on fire and uh i came up and i was like i was down for like 40 seconds it's a different it's totally different out there in the wild yeah and it's like water that's in the 50s and and you know these are working women were in their probably 60s some of them oh yeah yeah easily um do you remember when we were we we went to that that farm and they were like persimmons on the trees and we had those women were making kimchi it was kim john season and they were like using the kiddie pools those women were badass yeah no it's it's amazing um yeah and it's you know i've been i've been you know obviously frequenting korea ever since so uh it's been it's been a really cool journey yeah i wanted to segue to that you know and i saw you i think this summer and you had been going back and forth quite a bit to film culinary class wars And Edward, I mean, major congrats on the show.
5:06It's amazing. It's really, really real and really fun and has a real shine of a Korean production. So tell us a little bit about what that was like, you know, filming with the hundred competitors, 20 chefs and 80, you know, commoners. What was that like? it was insane it was definitely the biggest production i've ever been on by far i mean i think at some point there were like over 200 cameras you know recording everything so just um just an insane amount of production um and just like an entire army of crew um and it's funny i don't know you know just just being in that environment like whatever i I've done cooking shows before but I really like you know I don't know if you say retired but you know I made a promise to myself that I wouldn't do it because I get invited all the time to do these cooking shows you know I sort of made a promise that I wouldn't do it again I'm older and there's just not much interest in it for me so I really haven't done anything like that in probably gosh 15 years and uh you know they called and at first i was like i don't know if i want to do this because you know i'm just not into the competition thing but you know the more i talked to them and it was you know the first big production in korea with a korean production company featuring korean chefs featuring korean food um i just felt like it was important to to be involved in something like that And I don't know if any of us really thought it was going to take off the way it did.
6:57I mean, it was a beautiful production and it was, you know, really, really competitive. And, you know, I don't know. It felt different when I was doing it from anything I've ever done before. And it was really, like, it was really grueling. and um because like with all these things you film it and you come back home and everyone kind of you know resumed their life and uh i got to meet some really fun chefs in korea and you know got to make some new friends and i thought that was cool and you know i don't know we just like time goes because i as it was at least a good six seven months before you know they edit and and put it on air and you kind of almost forget about it and then i was like oh yeah you know that show that I did is coming.
7:48And I remember even texting some people about it because I thought, well, you know, no one's going to see this so let me make sure that people know that it's on and then, you know, it started out a little slow and then I guess by the second week it just started to take off and it just exploded overnight. It's just been a non-stop rollercoaster ever since. It's been great. I mean, it's a real testament to the production. And clearly, Netflix made an investment in kind of doing culinary competition in a fresh way. You know, that scale is really the largest scale I've ever seen in like a real way.
8:31I want to ask you, I recognize the difficulty of your position because, you know, you're competing in Korea. You certainly can speak Korean, but you're not native, native, like you don't live there and speak it all the time. So you've got to deal with the language barrier. You also have to deal with these chefs who are throwing incredible spins using Korean ingredients, using the jang, using Kim, using all these cool things, but also bringing in a lot of Western influence. And honestly, man, you're like, it's got to be just a real puzzle to like jump into the arena and and cook with Koreans like in that way.
9:13Yeah, it was it was not easy. it was an understatement of the century it was it was really tough um i don't know man i just i went in there and and i think with with these things uh you just have to buy in and i think in some ways it was really right because it's a lot of people saying it was kind of a disadvantage to me because I didn't speak the language I don't live there I didn't have all my equipment I was jetting all that stuff there were clearly disadvantages but in some ways there was this real advantage to just being alone because we didn't film in Seoul so I wasn't even in Seoul and I just when we had days off I was just by myself and just exploring and doing a lot of reading and cooking and going to the market every day.
10:16And so I just had all this time to myself without any distractions of family or work or anything. And I just got into a really weird space in my head, but a good one where I was just like, you know, why, why am I here? why am I doing this? And, um, a part of it really was to figure out how to connect back to my Korean roots. Um, I don't think a lot of people in their fifties get to sort of have a second chance at going back home and feeling some kind of, uh, you know, connection to your roots. and I felt really fortunate that I had this opportunity so I didn't want to take it lightly and um I just I just said listen if I'm gonna do this let's just do it and and focus on it and you know I turned my hotel room into a little like test lab kitchen and I would just go to the market every day and just just cook in my hotel room that's incredible you had like a hot plate and you were just like ripping it hot plate you know say what are you eating and you know i had a cutting board and knife a hot plate in the fridge so cool and you know little bowls and mixers and and just started making stuff and you know it was really um the one thing i i i made a promise to myself was that i wasn't gonna do any uh like purely western food on the show like i I wasn't, you know, I've been cooking for 30 years.
11:54I got a million recipes in my back pocket. And I said, what's the point of going to Korea and, you know, making a beurre blanc or, you know, making a roux or making, I just, I don't, I didn't see the point of it. So I kind of went there and said, I'm only going to cook food that kind of hits me in that moment. and stuff that I've never really done before. I mean, you know, some things you always have in your back pocket, but like I wanted to do things that related to my Korean journey and not sort of rely on stuff that I've learned in the past. And so that was something that was, I put that extra sort of challenge on myself.
12:46And in some ways it was really refreshing because I didn't, I didn't allow myself to, you know, reach back and, you know, make a salad or make a dish that I've done before. You know, make a pasta or make a risotto. You know, like I just, I didn't want to, I don't know, I wanted to explore something new. Yeah, I mean, you took advantage of the opportunity to have that lab in your hotel room. and I wanted to work with Korean flavors like I'm in Korea why would I make American food in Korea yeah what do you find at the market like what are you discovering I mean are you thinking like is this produce is it like jit like you know are you using like fermented sauces yeah I mean everything that you would find I mean stuff that it's just different you know like there's there's this wonderful tangerine vinegar from Jeju Island that I just fell in love with.
13:52Obviously, just the produce that you get there that you can't get here. Things like chrysanthemum leaves and minari and all these wonderful different herbs that and you can find some of it here, but it's just so much different over there. And obviously, like persimmons and all the stuff that are very Korean and stuff that I've had before my whole life but I kind of wanted to look at them in just a different way and see if I could use them in a way that wasn't so typical and kind of put a fresh spin on things. Yeah, well listeners, you gotta check out the show you'll burn through all the episodes in a day, it's a binge watch are you thinking season 2?
14:46like going on there? Yeah, going back? Would you go back to the arena? No, I don't, I mean, you know, now. It sounds like a no. I mean, well, we'll get to all of it. Yeah, I mean, there's other things I need to get done. Yeah, no, no. You know, I think it was whatever. I, like, I, it was a good run. I think that first season was really special. It was special for me, and I feel like it was special for people that were watching it. And, you know, there's a lot to be said for don't ruin a good thing. No, no doubt. And really, you did really well, too. No spoilers, but, Ed, you went really far, and congrats.
15:27Okay, I want to go back pretty far because I don't think we talk about your restaurant in New York called Clay. You opened it in 1998. And, you know, for those familiar with your work, you know, we know you from Top Chef. We know you from Mind of a Chef and all the television. We know you from your restaurants in Louisville and D.C. But we don't really talk about this restaurant. So for our listeners, take us back to your restaurant 98, cooking modern Korean food a decade or more before this cuisine really started to percolate in New York. You mean like clay in New York? Yeah, yeah, let's go back to the clay days, man.
16:06I want to give that restaurant. Rain doesn't go back that far. I know. Okay, dig deep. My question is this. take us back to that first opening menu or the opening couple months. You know, what are you doing in New York in 98? And, like, what are some of the dishes that I would say probably were the first modern Korean dishes being prepared in New York in that way? I still remember. It was Mott Street and Spring Street. We had the restaurant, and it just, you know, it came serendipity. You know, I was walking by, and the rent was so cheap. And I was like, I knew I wasn't ready to open a restaurant, but I was like, I'm never going to get this deal ever again.
16:51And so I jumped in and did. I was 25 when the restaurant opened and it was pretty green. But, you know, I wanted to I had this idea that that, you know, Korean food back then was so new and I was probably actually ahead of my time. Like it was like too much, you know, because Korean food hadn't really. even quite been established like the traditional part of it hadn't quite even been established and so then I just kind of like was almost jumping too far ahead and doing kind of a you know a modern view of it and I remember the whole idea was to take all of these Korean foods and and make it into smaller portions and modernize it and and do like Korean tapas style so that because the one thing i hate about korean restaurant traditional korean restaurants is you go and you have to order like huge plates of meat um and like you order pajeon and it's like 18 slices and so you don't get to try a huge variety of things because everything you order is in big portions so i said well why don't you why wouldn't you make a a small portion so people could taste around and order like eight or nine things and you could really learn about korean food and taste the whole, you know, wide range of it.
18:14And it was wildly successful. I mean, like beyond anyone, my imagination, we just did really well. And it was so funny because I didn't know anything about the restaurant business. Then I had, I mean, we didn't have a credit card machine for like eight months. Wow. I was just doing, like we just didn't really know about the restaurant business. And, you know, at that time, I don't know for anyone out there who's like true New Yorker, the only Korean restaurant outside of Koreatown was this place called Doksuni's. And it was kind of the first Korean restaurant. It was on First Avenue, maybe Fourth Street.
18:54Absolutely. Yeah. And it was like the first, I don't know, hipster maybe. Like it was the first Korean restaurant that really went outside of the norm. and you had like customers that were from all walks of life and they but they were doing pretty straight up traditional Korean food and I just thought like wow that's really cool and they're like and they had a great following and so I was like I just I love that and I just wanted to take that vibe but just bring it a little bit more you know I hate to use the word fusion but just like give it a little bit more cross-cultural reference, uh, and be a little more playful with the food.
19:37Um, and, uh, you know, we, we, we had a great run and it's really funny because we did that for what, three years. I paid off all my debt in three years and I was just starting to make money. And, and, you know, by then I was like 28, 29. Um, and everything was going swimmingly well and then 9-11 happened and that was you know where i was i mean it's a very short walk to the twin towers from where i was and that was kind of the crushing blow that just like just rejiggered my life because i didn't really want to stay in new york after you know i'm born and bred in new york like i'm um spent my entire life in new york and i just didn't want to stay in New York anymore.
20:27And I don't know, this weird, you know, friend of a friend of a friend opportunity came up and I ended up going to Kentucky. Yeah, you bounced to Kentucky. I want to get to that part. But back to Datsuni, I love that you mentioned that it's in the back cover of a book, Koreatown. And we have a little memory of it. And I love that reference. And they put out a cookbook too in like maybe 95. It's a real pioneering work. And I used it and love that book. But let me, I mean, The idea of like making Korean food, quote unquote, hip or cool or hipster, you know, that was an impulse that I would say 20 years later, more than 20 years later is now.
21:06I mean, it is the coolest cuisine in New York. And I see that with like a real like no irony. It's truly what the what the it's it's really setting the the level in New York dining. And really, like, when you're downtown in Soho doing Korean food, are you getting a clientele that are, like, not familiar with Korean food? And, like, does that echo kind of this time we're in now, which Korean food is being introduced to so many people who've honestly never had, like, anything else out of bibimbap? I mean, were you doing that? Yeah, I guess we were. You mean at my restaurant? Yeah, at Clay. Yeah, no, we were.
21:45We were. I mean, we were, I'd say more than 50 % of the clientele that we were serving to had never had Korean food. And so we were, I was kind, and the way I saw it was like, if I make this a little more palatable, a little bit more of a gateway, you know, look, if I make it a little bit more accessible. And a lot of it is just like even just menu, like making the menu more readable, making it less, you know, instead of having 60 items on a menu, having 20 items, you know, having people that can explain the food, that it would draw more attention and people. So a lot of things would happen is like people like, oh, yeah, yeah, I've never been I've never been to a Korean restaurant because it just seems so daunting.
22:32So they would come to my restaurant and they go, I really love the food. I go, great. Now go to 32nd Street. Right. And you can go have something more authentic. Go up to Kangsu. Remember Kangsu? Yeah, yeah. Kangsu. So a lot of people ended up coming to my restaurant and then from that got turned on to Korean food and then went to more authentic places and became real fans of Korean food. Yeah. And I thought that was cool because it was like I just, you know, whatever. It's not like I wanted, you know, to like turn my customers away. But I wanted to have more people be introduced to Korean food because at the time, Korean food was not trendy or popular at all.
23:10And, you know, again, outside of Doksuni, you know, we'll just say it like there wasn't Korean restaurants for white people, you know, outside of Doksuni and my restaurant was it. And, you know, at the time, most restaurants in Koreatown, they weren't the friendliest to outsiders, you know, like they just they. They didn't speak English. They didn't really care if you came or not. So it was a bit of a struggle. And, you know, it just, it takes a while to sort of bridge these things together so that, you know, you can have a cuisine that becomes, you know, globally or at least nationwide successful.
23:53Someone said to me Recently And I never think about these things But someone recently Said an email They were like well you know You should do something Because you're kind of like One of the forefathers of Korean food in New York And I never thought of it Because I left New York So I left the whole New York scene And I never thought of it that way Because I never thought I did anything very relevant or gastronomically important. I had a small restaurant for three and a half years and then it got crushed by 9-11. This is before social media. This is before any of that. There wasn't a trail. You Google my restaurant, Clay, and there's nothing online.
24:48Edward, it's before cell phones man like let's get real I remember getting my first cell phone like six months before we closed so there was like either you knew about the place or you didn't and we got some great like we were you know we were in the New York Times we were in we were in like Japanese Vogue like we got some great write ups but it was still this like it was a world where you either knew it or you didn't and it's really funny like And so what, almost 30 years later, I still have people come up to me or social media message me or write me and say, I remember Clay. That place was a fucking legend.
25:33And, you know, we had a great time and we probably partied a little more than we should have. I mean, it was Soho in the 90s. I mean, come on. It's a beautiful time to be operating a restaurant being a chef. It was a beautiful time. and it was like it was just really special i would never trade those three and a half years for anything um and those three and a half years like the people that know that were there that worked for me that were regulars they just know it was a really special restaurant and it was it was like the cheers of nolito yeah like everyone came down every night and we all hung out we all had korean food and we all drank soju and we just hung out and it was it was this grand time And in some ways, it's like it was over, it was over, and I never wanted to rehash that.
26:19And here you are doing it on a podcast. Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's like going down memory lane. It's really special, and I'm so glad you shared these memories because I agree with you fully. You are really a forefather, godfather of Korean food in New York, and that is absolutely the facts. Let's transition to movie. But in some way, I'm not because that small restaurant didn't touch enough people. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I get it. to influence anyone, you know? It was like all the people that are doing great Korean food in New York, they never ate at my restaurant, so they never saw it. Like, I think people know about it, that it existed, but it just, it was kind of a neighborhood restaurant.
26:58Yeah, I mean, I think I would say, yeah, you're not being modest. I think you are correct in some ways that, you know, not enough people saw you. And I think Jong-Sik and Jong-Sik-Yim, what he did with his restaurant in Tribeca, so much talent came out of those kitchens, And we see that today. And really, that may be the most influential, but I would say pioneer. I'll call you a let's call you a pioneer. You're more of a pioneer than Godfather. OK, so you moved to Louisville and I it's you're very understated and humble. and I love talking to you about it, but like 610 Magnolia, this restaurant you opened in Louisville, another pioneering restaurant in a different way, in a way that brought au cuisine and real like fine dining to a city that had a lot of heritage and a lot of history.
27:48And you've written about that beautifully in your first cookbook, Smoke and Pickles, which I think is one of my favorite cookbooks of all time. Love your work there. And just for our listeners who maybe don't know, and this restaurant is still open, still very successful. Like 610 is a pioneer. What was that shift like moving there? And like just for the sake of the brevity, like what does it mean to move from this restaurant in Lolita Clay to a brand new city and doing this fine dining? Yeah, it was, you know, it's a whole book. It is, sorry. To put it, you know, really short, I was really depressed when I left New York.
28:33And I was like 9-11. I actually had a friend die in the towers. And I was probably needing to sober up a little bit, you know. And so I moved to, of course, I moved to the capital of bourbon, which probably wasn't the best idea. And I didn't have any friends in Kentucky. So I kind of, I don't know. I was 29, 30. And I just did this. I also, I didn't know if I was going to stay. I really went to Kentucky to just hang out for a year, clear my head. But I just, you know, I lived alone. I lived above the restaurant. I cooked 12 hours a day and I went to bed. And I kind of left this entire world of New York nightlife and the glitz and all this, you know, all the, you know, the models and the fashionistas and all that.
29:24And I just left all that behind. I just went to have a very simple life. and to just kind of reassess. I think Clay had been so successful, but it kind of became a party hangout, which I loved and it was great, but I wanted to do something more with food. I didn't want to run a joint for the rest of my life, and I knew I wanted to get more serious about food. It gave me a place where I could just be quiet and have no friends and just cook and explore and make mistakes, you know, kind of under the radar. I didn't know if it was going to last. And obviously, like, you know, when we first, 610 was a restaurant that had existed for 27 years, and I bought it from this gentleman named Eddie Garber.
30:14And, you know, it's like this really beautiful, quaint restaurant off the beaten track no one no one knew i was there and i just started cooking and i would just open the doors and like four people would wander in you know but we were but we were doing like a hundred dollars a head tasting menu which back in the day in louisville was unheard of it just wasn't something that you did and um and i just you know there were there were nights where we had four customers and i would just be in the kitchen by myself maybe one other person cooking and not all the food was great, but it was good enough where I was pushing myself and challenging myself and just, and it slowly caught on and, you know, but it took a while.
31:00It was like, it wasn't, it wasn't an overnight success and people were very skeptical of who I was and where I came from and why I was doing this weird modern food in the middle of Louisville, Kentucky. But the people there were really nice and welcoming and they were curious and they just I don't know, in some weird way, they accepted me. I don't think people of Kentucky realized how vulnerable and how kind of at a crossroads I was in life. And I didn't really have a plan to stay, but I was just so warmly welcome. And I just fell in love with the place and the people. I met a girl who's now my wonderful wife and mother to my child.
31:44And I ended up staying for 22 years. Um, you know, obviously still have restaurants there. And I just, I love the city for what it gave me. Uh, because at the time I didn't really know who I was as a chef and it gave me a voice and it gave me a place and a foundation and some roots in, in, in the least likely place that you would ever think from a, for a Korean American kid who was born in Brooklyn, um, just to wind up there. But I don't know. So it's like, sometimes life happens that way and you can't close yourself off to it. And I feel really fortunate that Louisville became my home base and it became the place where I found my voice.
32:26And I love that city to death. Well, it's an incredible story and definitely pick up the book Smoke and Pickles for really the details and the recipes from that era. I want to push forward. And of course, you run restaurants all over the country now and you have two restaurants in Louisville. but the one that really sticks out is your newest restaurant in Washington, D.C. where you live now. Shia, to me, is just another evolution in your story. I can't wait to visit. It's opened in November, so it's brand new, and you're there cooking, and it sounds like maybe some similar instincts from the early 610 days.
33:04You're there. It's a tasting menu format. Please, Ed, just tell us a little bit about this restaurant and what it means because I think we're going to be hearing a lot about it in the next 12 months. And it really, I love the menu. I love it. I just absolutely do. Yeah, it's, I don't know. So I've been on this Korean journey for a little bit, and it's kind of like, as we talked about, it started with taking some trips there, obviously. When I had my daughter, my daughter is 11 now, when she was born a decade ago or so, you know, it just starts like, Like, oh, I got this kid now. Like, am I going to teach her about Korea?
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33:43I want her to know about something. But, you know, she's not 100 % Korean anyway. So you just start having these thoughts, right, when you have a kid. And I don't know. I just started, like, reintroducing myself to a culture that I had been born with but haven't really embraced or put that much effort into it. My fault for doing that. And so, you know, I'm just kind of reconnecting. And then, you know, by a year and a half ago, two years ago, I opened a Korean restaurant in Louisville, Kentucky called Nami. And Nami is actually my daughter's Korean name. And so I just kind of like just wanted to do something for her and to, I don't know, have some legacy for Korean food.
34:29And I thought, you know, Korean food being more popular. I thought it would be cool to do a Korean barbecue joint in Louisville, Kentucky. Anyway, it became wildly successful. and as I'm doing it I'm just getting more and more into Korean food and just like discovering more things and you know getting deeper into recipes and then things that I can't do there because it's pretty much a traditional barbecue restaurant so we don't stray too far from sort of our DNA at the restaurant like Kobe, Bimbab we're very playful with it but yeah it's got like pajeon and Bibimbap, all the classics and I just started getting really really like inspired by ingredients and like any chef go like all right like I've got all this perilla seed and we use it in a very traditional way at NAMI but I'm like yeah but what if we did this with it and what if and I just started thinking about all these things and I was like I don't have an outlet or a restaurant to do all this in and then and then the call came to do the culinary class wars and then that just got me even more completely jazzed up about like what the potential of Korean food can be.
35:42And this sort of bridging between Korean Korean food and Korean American food and what that means. And you just start to think about the evolution of what Korean food is. And it got me thinking about this theory is like there's kind of like generations of Korean food, just like there's generations of immigrants. And so you have this first generation of Korean restaurants in America, which is pretty much your first wave of immigrants. It's your mom and pop Korean restaurants. It's your, you know, your K-town restaurants. In LA, you go to Koreatown. It's, you know, your kalbi, your barbecue grill, your paja and your mandu.
36:21And that's great. And that kind of lays the foundation. And then the next version of that food is when that, those flavors and those techniques and items start to cross-pollinate with what's around your neighborhood, right? So American culture. So for example, you have your bulgogi tacos, right? And then you have your kimchi hot dogs and then you have your kimchi burgers. And so you have this, you know, again, for lack of a better word, this fusion of Korean flavors mixing with very traditional or very americanized um things and that's great and that kind of was and you're a part of that and everyone like kind of that there was this huge wave of that i don't know like five six seven years ago right where people were putting kimchi on everything and it's a and it's a great way to introduce that that those flavors and then i think there's a third wave and that wave is what's happening now And it's happening, like you said, with a lot of the fine dining restaurants in Korea where now we're going, okay, we have the traditional mom and pop restaurants.
37:34We had the cross-pollination food. Now what's next? Can we do something that actually kind of focuses the lens really, really close on Korean traditions, Korean flavors, reaching back to something that's a little bit more historic, a little bit more, you know, based on origins and techniques, but do it in a way that's a little innovative. You know, when we started doing Shia, we had all these ideas. And the one thing that I said that I didn't want to do was to put Korean flavors on top of French technique. And I think a lot of times when you quote unquote elevate ethnic food, you get into this weird territory and everyone's seen it.
38:28It's such a trap. It's such a trap. It's like miso creme brulee. You know, I'm going to do a tandoori rub on a steak. I'm going to do a, you know, a ginger macaroon. and really all you're doing is doing western food but sort of throwing in asian flavors and there's nothing wrong with that and plenty of restaurants do it and they do it for a reason it's delicious and it's fine but what i wanted to do and i think what a lot of fine dining korean chefs are doing in new york and in korea are going wait a second there's stuff here there's an entire volume of technique here already. We don't have to be insecure about it and rely on Western techniques to fuse it, to make it elevated.
39:19We can just elevate what's already there. And I think that to me, if I can put it into words, encapsulates what this third wave of Korean food that's happening right now is to say, I don't have to do a French macaroon to make a great dessert. I can rely on something that's Korean, update it and modernize it and do some, but I can, I can use that as the root and the base. And so we just, we do things with, you know, we, we, we do chuk and we do, you know, uh, uh, you know, we do kind of a kalbi, we do, uh, uh, you know, different kinds of, uh, kimchis and, and changs and we just try and elevate that.
40:00But I don't want the food to look, feel, or taste westernized in any way. Well, I would say, Ed, I mean, it sounds like this is the type of cuisine that is prevalent in Korea in that middle to fine dining. And I've been to Korea a few times the past couple of years and been kind of shying away from the more classic traditional places and trying to see what the modern scene is. I wrote a piece for food and wine that will be coming out in December. Now, like, this is so interesting because you're rejecting this fusion, this idea that you have to, like, give it this vocabulary of the West to bring in diners because they need that miso creme boule.
40:39But, like, we as diners understand Korean food more than ever now. And that's got to be part of the calculus here. and like dc of course has such a great korean community who can support and plus the international audience from the government i gotta believe that this is setting up to be a really exciting time for bringing like i would call it traditional modern i know those are two yeah those are weird you know and it's always a it's always an education because like i'm i'm you know there are things that you know don't for example you know what ojinga is the dried squid snack yes of course so it's like everyone knows ojinga like we all eat it we all eat it with beer it's like it is such a common flavor seafood jerky it's the best seafood jerky but you don't but you don't ever eat it outside of it and I think some what I think makes Korean Americans slightly different from Korean Koreans is that and I write about this in Buttermilk.
41:46It's like if you have three centuries of tradition on your shoulder, it's really hard to see a piece of food outside of the lane that it was invented in. So Koreans, when they think of ojjinga, it's a bar snack that you eat late at night with beer. But I love the flavor of it. It's like sweet and salty and funky and dehydrated. And so we take that and we dehydrate it until it's completely dry and then we grind it up into a powder and then we coat fish with it but we also make like a I would say kind of an XO sauce but made with dried squid with the ojigang and so you just get this thing where it's like and you can see the faces on even Korean people who come and they eat it and they go I know that flavor but you're putting it in a context that have no clue why it should be there.
42:42And I'm like, do you know what that flavor is? And they're like, I do, but I can't place it. And I'm like, and then once I say Ojinga, they're like, of course it's Ojinga, but you just did it in a way that's... And I'm like, to me, I don't know, that is really fun for me to take that flavor outside of its traditional context, not make it Western, but also try and mess with it a little bit, you know? And I don't know, that's that that's kind of the stuff that we're doing it's really hard and it's not perfect right now and you know i've got i've assembled a really good team and we're starting to do more collaboration we're still you know we're a month old so we're still on menu one um and menu one's always imperfect because it's like i didn't know who my staff i don't you know so it's like basic you know entry level but as we get more comfortable with each other and as we explore more i think there's a lot to explore with Korean flavors where, where we go, okay, this is, I know this is what you think of, but we can do it and, and kind of play with it.
43:47Um, but anyway, that's, I'm hoping that we can do more of that as we, it's going to be exciting evolutions. She is the restaurant. If you're in DC, let's write that name down and go there, like book the table, check out Ed, uh, his, his skills in the kitchen. I want to, you mentioned your writing and And Buttermilk Graffiti was your first book of essays. You have a brand new book out this year, Bourbonland, which is terrific. Your writing is so colorful, erudite. And, you know, just hearing you speak, you know, clearly you've got some skills with the pen. Tell me, why did bourbon, this, you know, truly American commodity, allow you to write essays about many topics outside of drinking culture?
44:32and really what is this book's real root? Yeah. It's like I have this multiple personalities. I'm at one lane exploring deep Korean food. And I'm like, but bourbon. Right. I feel sometimes like I'm schizophrenic. But I have these dual identities in me. And I'm just like, I love Korean food, but I love Southern culture too, obviously. being in Kentucky for 22 years. So, um, and this is a book that started, you know, two years ago, um, published this year, but I didn't know, like I've been drinking bourbon my whole life. And obviously being from Kentucky for 20 years, I've been cooking with bourbon for so long.
45:18And I, I felt like bourbon is having this huge, phenomenal global reach right now. It's like never been more popular. And so I was talking to my publisher, like, well, what, what can you say about bourbon that already hasn't been said before. And there's a plethora of wonderful books about bourbon out there. And I was like, I don't know, but I don't think bourbon's ever been approached from a chef's standpoint. It's always from like a connoisseur or an expert or a bartender. And I wanted to do a deep dive into bourbon, not ranking bourbons or talking about flavor profiles or talking about, you know, ripe figs and cinnamon stick and stuff.
46:02I don't do well with stuff like that. I wanted to tell a very personal journey. And it's kind of my, the whole book is about Kentucky bourbon very specifically. So it's kind of my love letter to Kentucky. And really to talk about the people that make this beautiful thing. I think a lot of people don't understand because bourbon is so popular right now that bourbon almost went away. And there was like bourbon almost went extinct. There was a huge period in American history where bourbon was not making any money. Bodka was the drink of choice. And there were a handful of distilleries in Kentucky that were keeping this tradition alive and not making any money out of it.
46:52Yeah, I mean, they closed Stitzel Weller. I mean, Stitzelweller is the iconic distillery. Well, Stitzelweller folded. Yeah, folded. It closed, right, exactly. Yeah, yeah. I mean, all of them closed. A lot of them closed. I mean, there's, you know, and so you just had a tradition, this American spirit that everyone was ignoring for a good chunk of, you know, the 20th century. and just to see it now like go bazonkers there's something about it i'm like i'm i'm glad that it is but we also have to like take a pause and appreciate the fact that if it wasn't for these really stubborn people in kentucky who decided that they were going to continue to do this without profit uh we wouldn't have this we wouldn't have this singularly classic american spirit that has taken over the globe.
47:47And so I just think it's something that is really important to kind of take a step back and look at. Yeah. Part and parcel of the book, but also just fun recipes. And I feel like, you know, to me, the bourbon book is a little bit of a bridge between sort of this older bourbon culture and this newer audience that's very young, very diverse, very global and, and that, that, you know, it's, it's something that sort of bridges, you know, in a, in a world where everything is so divisive, it's really nice to talk about something that bridges old traditional Kentucky culture with, with young global, you know, hipsters and people who just, you know, rally around bourbon.
48:34Um, and, and I just think it's a really cool subject to dive deep into you know for for a single subject book um and it's like the future of bourbon is unwritten it's it's it's vast and it's going to become more diverse and more global and the fact that like i can make a korean recipe use bourbon as an ingredient in there and it makes the food richer and deeper like it's it's i just think that's that's what excites me. Like I've never been a traditionalist, you know, like I'm not the guy that's like, hey, let's get grandma's recipe and recreated and, you know, authenticated. And I love people that do that.
49:19It's really necessary. I'm glad there are preservationists out there who keep traditions alive. But that's not what gives me goosebumps. What I love is going, all right, let's take this cool thing from here and that cool thing from here. Can we smash it together? and when it works, it's awesome. Yeah, man. Well, pick up the book Bourbon Land and I love what you talk about. Bourbon is drunk everywhere from Upper East Side cocktail bars to the tailgate at LSU. So it's something that reunites our country in a divided country and really you tap into these. And on This Is Taste, we ask guests about the discerning taste.
49:55So to close this interview, here's a little rapid fire, fast and furious taste check. Are you ready? No, but go ahead. I don't do rapid fire very well. let's try it the best fruit oh the best fruit it depends what's in season I like melons like a Korean melon like the Korean jame it's very understated the worst vegetable the worst vegetable you know I don't like this is very controversial I don't like artichokes I don't think they taste like anything Yeah, and the work doesn't really deliver much. A lot of work. So much work. For very little flavor. So much work. The best dessert. The best what?
50:41The best dessert. The best dessert.
50:47Ice cream? What's your number one flavor? I like coffee. Yeah, right on. I mean, we're all just chasing Haagen-Dazs. My take. My take only. Yeah, I mean, like, I love fancy. I love every dessert, but, like, I don't know. Just sitting back with a pint of coffee ice cream watching a shitty movie. It's nothing better. A restaurant you wish you could bring back from the dead. Oh, my God, there's so many. You know what I used to love, though? It was really a revolutionary restaurant. We'll test people's knowledge, if any will. I'm not even going to say anything about it, but there's a restaurant called Quilties in New York.
51:35And you either know it or you don't, but it was legendary. Only follow-up is any relationship to quilted giraffe? No, not at all. Interesting. Well, I'm going to go down a rabbit hole later and do your homework. Quilties it is. All right, this is a big one. Your favorite cookbook of all time. I remember when I was younger, there was a cookbook by Ken Hom, who is a British Chinese chef. And he published one of the first like really upscale, like widespread Chinese cookbooks. And I just remember when I was younger, like cooking from that a lot and learning from it a lot because, you know, at the time, all the really nice cookbooks were all French.
52:19And he was the first one that did something that was asian that was like really substantial i know the name i'll check out this book i haven't picked it up um last one your favorite sandwich my favorite sandwich pastrami is there a place nothing else though no no no other no like pick like if you have really like a cat's kind of pastrami if it's really good pastrami or you go to like shapiro's in Indianapolis. You really get just mustard, you know, rye bread and pastrami. You don't need all that pickles or Russian dressing or anything. It's like really good pastrami. So agree. I think it's like either Langer's or Katz's.
52:58Those are my two. Yeah. Good stuff. Well, Edward Lee, what a pleasure. Thank you so much for joining. This is taste. Thank you, man. Thank you for having me.
53:16Eliza, you are back from your incredible month in Asia. I just felt like we should catch up because I literally we've been on Zoom a few times, but I haven't seen you. It's nice to see you. It's nice to see you, too. We've been talking over Slack at strange hours of the day when we both happen to be online. But no, I'm back in New York. I'm back in the podcast studio. So just coming back to New York, you're in Taiwan, in Thailand. We're going to chit chat a little bit about it here, but then you're doing a full conversation with your girlfriend, Shirley, and you're going to go over a lot of the spots and link to them.
53:48And it's going to be amazing. But what's it been like coming back to New York? It's pretty weird. I was saying this when I walked in talking with our producer, Clayton, but I feel like this is definitely about to be the most talking I've done with anybody who's not my girlfriend in the past month, probably. Or at least speaking in English, which is the language that I speak the best. Although I did learn a lot more Mandarin. So that was really fun. And specifically how to say things in like a Taiwanese way, which is really fun to get to learn how to do. But no, I walked into Midtown today and I saw all of the coffee carts and the halal trucks.
54:24And I was like, OK, I'm back. I'm accepting it. I love these things about New York. So it's been nice to be back. I've been doing a couple like New Yorkie things, but mostly just adjusting to the time and cooking because I haven't cooked in a long time. Right. You haven't been in your home kitchen. I'm sure that you missed it. Right. I mean. Yeah. I really I feel like cooking is such a huge form of, I guess, self-care for me. It's just an outlet and it's something that really centers me and is creative. I'm sure you feel that way, too. I do. So getting back into that, I think, was a really nice way to kind of reorient my body in this routine I have of being back in New York.
54:58But some things like the weather or my schedule or the subway here, I think, are more of an adjustment. Well, I've missed you, first off. I miss you, too. It's nice to see you in person. And I've been doing some monopods, which, you know. You're talking to yourself? Yeah, mileage may vary with that listener, but I've been trying. I like having you here, though, so we can bounce off ideas and record three things and just do our interviews here. I want to know a little bit just broadly, what was your takeaway broadly about just being in Taiwan? I mean, I really loved it there. It was special for me because I was going with my girlfriend, Shirley, whose family is all in Taiwan mostly.
55:36And I got to meet a lot of her family for the first time and also just get to see this other part of her life and the way that she can exist in the world and eat all of these foods that I've been looking at and wanting to try for a long time. But I feel like just the Taiwanese people are really kind and also really chill. I feel like there is this sense of certainly things are orderly in the subway, runs on time and is like beautiful lines that people line up in. And then they play like a different classical music song when the subway arrives. Just if we could have that in New York, just classical music in general.
56:12Right. I mean, I love it when you hear a subway performer playing. But just the experience of like waiting for the subway and having it be so calm and orderly and kind of thoughtful as well. Like there were things like that that just felt so completely different. But even that sense of kind of order, like I didn't feel like it felt uptight in any kind of way. It felt like people being respectful for each other and looking out for each other. And there were so many little moments like that that I found to be really meaningful. And then also the food obviously was so fantastic and the quality of seafood and shellfish because Taiwan is an island or the fruits that I got to have there that I never had before.
56:49And I felt that way about getting to go to Thailand a lot as well and just experiencing like so much of the way that people exist in social spaces together. All of that stuff. A month in Asia, a month plus. I mean, when you're less than a month, three and a half weeks, three and a half weeks. OK, well, it's longer than most trips. I've never been there that long. That's was there something about the way food was prepared or just your own diet that struck you in upon reflection about the way, you know, things are maybe slightly different from your usual day to days? Yeah. You know, the food is very inexpensive in both of those places, especially in Taiwan.
57:27And because of that, like people make up for it in the speed in which it can be served to people at a lot of places. So there's a lot of stuff where things have been already prepped ahead of time and then they're just frying it off, like putting it in the broth, assembling it. And especially if you're eating at one of the more like casual, like on the sidewalk or like a little restaurant, like a lot of the places we would go to, they just have it done that way. But it's still so affordable and it's really fresh. And I think especially like a lot of Taiwanese, like more home style or traditional cooking that we were having is about having these high quality ingredients and not necessarily doing as much with it.
58:02Versus in Thailand, you have these really, you know, elaborate curries and pastes and salad dressings. And there's kind of so much more going on there from a ingredients perspective. So I feel like comparing that was really nice. Also, I feel like a lot of people know that I love fruit and getting to go to all the fruit stands. and I had a wax apple for the first time. Explain. Have you had those? In Korea, yes, I've had a wax apple. I can't recall. I know I've had it, but what's the texture like? This is my new favorite fruit. I've eaten it so many times over the past couple weeks. The texture is the best part.
58:34I would say it's as juicy as like a very good apple or an Asian pear, but the texture is much lighter and less dense than those fruits. It's almost cottony, or like little like tufts inside of it when you bite it in it. And it's really crisp on the outside. And the flavor is maybe like, I had a hard time. If anyone could describe it to me, I would love to know what other people would say. But maybe like a green grape or a plum that has that kind of tart, sweet, almost like herbaceous note. It's about the shape of the palm of your hand. And it looks like a bell kind of or a bell pepper. I really love this.
59:08I wish we could have them here. I brought three on my flight back. Yeah. And ate all of them and realized that I should have brought more. Yeah. Or your next trip. Did you have any soursop? I had soursop and I also had sugarsop. I think the Taiwanese for that is sakya. I'm probably not pronouncing that right. But Taiwan is the largest grower of sugarsop in the world. It was brought over by the Dutch when they were colonizing prior to the Japanese colonization. And it's grown very widely in the southern part of Taiwan where we were. So I'd never had one before. That was pretty cool. Is there like a flavor or a scent that just is still with you from this trip?
59:46Stinky tofu. Oh, you had some. Okay, cool. No, I honestly did not have some because I really found the smell to be just a lot for me to handle. I get migraines and I really feel like the smell of stinky tofu felt like it was going to trigger a migraine for me. But when you're walking around, especially in Taipei, there's a lot of places that are doing braising and you can choose from a bunch of ingredients where you want braised right then and there. and stinky tofu is really common. And so we would be walking down the street and Shirley would say, stinky tofu, like cover your nose. But once you smell it, like it's kind of too late, you know?
1:00:18Yeah, it just like sits with you. Let me ask you, this is a little abstract, but like, is there like a flavor or a texture that you experience that you have? And I've had this experience many times in Asia, like a style of a, like an acidity that felt like I'd never had that in American cuisine or Korean American. or I mean is there something that sticks out from you? I think maybe a texture that I found myself experiencing a lot is this chewiness you know like QQ is a term for that also that very kind of squishy chewy texture that a lot of people I think are drawn to in Taiwanese food and then a less maybe a little slightly less chewy version of that but boba is something I was having a lot of when I was there and I really love tea and oolong and there's a lot of oolong that's grown in the mountains in taiwan and a lot of the boba places we went to that have those really beautiful like top of the line like tea espresso machines that you can put different single origin teas in and then they have a whole array of other things that are going to go into that um also the coffee citrus or tea citrus combination is something i found myself loving and encountering so much um both like the coffee tonic water with some grapefruit or kumquat or calamansi.
1:01:36It's like a lot of the coffee shops I went to were doing. And then also a lot of boba shops were doing black tea with like chunks of grapefruit. Yeah. I don't know what to call it. The flesh? Like the like the pulp. Yeah. It would be like a grapefruit flavor. But when you would drink it, there would be like actual little membrane, like parts of grapefruit that you could be having. It just felt like so fresh. I love that combination. And just thinking about the cafe culture in Taiwan, I've heard it's legendary i mean it's it's the quality of the teas and i mean what was the service like in the cafes was it like seated you would order at the counter and have or was it more like a like a quick you know i feel like there's a really cool range of kind of places we went to certainly a lot of the boba places don't have a lot of seating at all it's a counter that you step up to and order and then take it with you on your way and lots of people have uh little like portable boba cup carriers.
1:02:29That's a piece of fabric that wraps around it with a handle on top, which I immediately wanted and ended up actually, we'll talk about it in the episode, but Shirley and I went to a place called DIY that you can customize shirts or all kinds of things, but you can also customize your own little fabric boba carrier. And so once I had my own boba carrier, so I didn't, I had my hands free and I could loop it around my wrist and walk around. I really felt like I was operating on another level. But those kinds of places, I think, are very quick versus there are a lot of really beautiful coffee shops that you can go and sit in, and especially in Tainan in the south, where we were at the end of the trip.
1:03:06There's a huge bar and coffee culture there, and it's down a lot of these beautiful old alleys in what used to be a former home. Maybe it has pieces of the old walls kind of sticking out and coming through, and then you could get it to go, or you could dine in and get a pour over or a cortado or something like that. Amazing. I can't wait for that conversation with Shirley and you'll have to share some specific places to go to because that will be a lot of value there. It'll be great. We have already been talking about how we're going to structure the episode. There's a lot to talk about, but whatever we do, it will come with detailed show notes of things as well.
1:03:41Wonderful. Well, let's move to Thailand because I wanted to hear a little bit about your trip there and your first time there. And how was the street food, the outdoor dining situation there? because that's what I take away most from Thailand is eating outside all the time. Yeah, certainly the night markets or vendors that are on the street. I mean, everything is so delicious. I really love Thai food. That was kind of the whole reason for the trip was feeling like if we were going to be going to Taiwan to see Shirley's family, we were already going to be in Asia, we might as well make the most of being on the other side of the world and go somewhere else.
1:04:15And then we wanted it to be warm and we wanted to eat a lot of Thai food. So it was kind of perfect in that way. And we went to Chiang Mai in the north. So we got to have some really good khao soi. Oh, cool. I didn't know that. You went to Chiang Mai. Yeah, we went to Chiang Mai for like three days. No way. Ate a lot of khao soi, had some really good crispy pork noodles that a friend Kelly of ours recommended, whose family is from Chiang Mai. And so we kind of walked out of the city very far one day and had the most incredible kind of bowl of noodle soup. And then we went to Bangkok, which was also incredible.
1:04:45and I feel like a common theme maybe in Taiwan, especially in Bangkok, which is such an international global city, is that in addition to having really great Thai food, we were also able to have fantastic Japanese food. Their Chinatown is the biggest Chinatown in the world. They have the largest immigrant community of Chinese people outside of China and we stayed in Chinatown for a couple days and had just really incredible kind of Thai-Chinese fusion food. Also, the mall culture is super huge. I remember. Yeah, I recall this years ago, having some mall fried chicken that was pretty great. Yeah, I mean, there's like 10, maybe more, very gigantic, popular malls across Bangkok.
1:05:28And a lot of them really establish food vendors from Bangkok or from other parts of Thailand have a second location inside these malls. They're air conditioned. They're open very late. And so they're a huge part of the Thai experience is going to the mall with your family or going to go get some food just because of the ease of being able to go there. And it's so cool to be somewhere where mall culture is so vibrant. You know, I think in the U.S. you always hear about mall culture is dead. Yeah, what mall do you go to? But that's really awesome. And so I enjoyed that as well. We went to four malls, but there were so many more that we didn't have time to go to.
1:06:05It is such a big city. It's kind of like L.A. in that kind of way that there's a lot of sprawl. And so getting across it is not the best. You kind of stick to one side. What are the fit checks in the malls? What are people wearing in contemporary Bangkok right now? What's the style like? The coolest outfit. Yeah, yeah. Everyone had just incredible baggy pants and bag charms. I have a, oh, I don't have it with me. I got a pom-pom purrin. Do you know who that is? No. He's like from the Hello Kitty universe. He's this little dog. I'll show you a photo. But in Thailand and in Taiwan, everyone has these little stuffed animals or charms like dangling off of their bags.
1:06:42And so I really felt like I needed to get one. And this little dog who's shaped like a pudding. Oh, that's adorable. I got him at 7-Eleven. Also, the 7-Eleven culture in Thailand and Taiwan is both fantastic. Just the amount of really good snacks or fresh food in Taiwan at the 7-Eleven. You can get roasted Japanese sweet potatoes or soy marinated eggs instead of the hot dogs. Yeah. Fried chicken you can get also. Oh, my gosh. Yeah, I think. And the variety of drinks, too. Yes. Malted milk. Yeah. Apple milk. All kinds of things like that. Yeah. The malted milks of Taiwan. Yeah. I don't drink milk, so I didn't buy it.
1:07:23But I was excited to see it because I knew that that's not really something we have access to here. I mean, I'll just close. Like, I know our listeners like to travel. We certainly we had a survey last year and many people love to travel. And like, can you offer a recommendation of traveling to Taiwan? Just like in general, how would you do it just with this one trip in mind, like where you would start? And do you rent a car or do you take the public transit? Yeah, I mean, I would say for both for both Thailand and Taiwan, I think they're really amazing places to travel to. It's so easy to get around both Bangkok and Taipei.
1:07:59I think if you were going to travel to those two countries, I would focus on those cities. just because there is really good transit opportunities. I had really good health care in both of those places provided to me, like much better than I would have gotten in the United States. The people in Thailand, I think Bangkok has been such a big travel destination for so long, and it's such an international city. I heard so many people who were from Korea or Russia or Germany or Japan that were all speaking English as a common language with Thai people when traveling. And so I think as people who speak English in America, It's a really easy place to go to.
1:08:33And I think Taipei is super under the radar comparatively as a travel destination. I saw much fewer tourists when I was there, especially outside of Taipei in the south, in Tainan or Kaohsiung or Taichung, which we'll talk about on this episode. Because I think all of those cities I went to are really special, and especially Taiwan is not that big of a country. So you can take the bullet train and be from one city to another on the other side of the country in 45 minutes, which is so awesome. That's amazing. We could have that here in the U.S. Yeah, wow. And we really, you know, did a lot of traveling around Lunar New Year when a lot of people are taking the bullet train to visit their family if they live in a different city.
1:09:09And just it makes it so easy to do that, which is really nice. So I would definitely recommend going to both of those cities. And I think once you're in Taipei, it's really so easy to get around. There's so many subways. They're all really clean and orderly. And you can hear the classical music, which I love so much. Yeah. And start there. And I think, you know, I'm really happy to have Shirley come on the show. I've been speaking about her as somebody that I cook with and go to restaurants with for years. So maybe there's a listener out there who feels like they're getting a guest episode from someone that's been mentioned on the show before.
1:09:43But I think I'll get to speak with her more about just what we found to be meaningful and exciting when we were traveling there and some places we would recommend going to. Well, I can't wait for the episode. Thanks for sharing. We're going to go off the mic now and talk about severance because you're almost caught up and we have theories. But we're going to chat. Well, thanks for sharing. Yeah, thanks for asking.
1:10:07This is Taste is hosted by Eliza Abarbanel and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is produced by Shalia Harris and Pat Stango and edited by Clayton Gumbert. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all cool things that are happening.
From the publisher
Chef Edward Lee is a good friend of ours and one of the most respected voices in American cooking. He’s also one of the stars of the breakout Netflix cooking show Culinary Class Wars, which has earned millions of fans for its unique approach to cooking competition on television. In this episode, we hear all about the production and about how Edward prepared for the competition. We also talk about his new Washington, DC, restaurant, Shia, and his time cooking in New York City in the ’90s at the pioneering restaurant Clay. It’s always so much fun catching up with Edward.
Also on the show, Aliza is back from Asia! Her and Matt catch up about what they've been up to at the start of the year, and discuss how much boba you can drink in a month's time.
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