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Podcast Episode Notes: This Is TASTE - Episode 547
Episode Title
The Tiny Cocktail Revolution Is Here with Tyler Zielinski
Podcast Overview
- Hosts: Aliza Abarbanel & Matt Rodbard
- Focus: Conversations about food, home cooking, and culture featuring interesting characters in food media.
Episode Summary In this episode, Tyler Zielinski, a London-based drinks professional, discusses his debut book "Tiny Cocktails" and the evolving cocktail culture. The episode also features a conversation with Bonny Reichert, author of the memoir "How to Share an Egg."
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Key Segments
- Introduction to Tyler Zielinski
- Tyler is a drinks journalist known for his work with notable publications such as Punch, Eater, and Food & Wine.
- Discussion revolves around his new book "Tiny Cocktails" that focuses on smaller, more manageable cocktails.
- Cocktail Scene Insights
- Current Trends in Cocktail Culture:
- Rise of "five-star dive bars" that balance quality cocktails with a laid-back, inclusive atmosphere.
- Importance of guest experience, music, and entertainment in cocktail bars.
- Recommended Bars:
- Schmuck, NYC - A new bar trendsetter.
- Paradise Lost, NYC - A dark, punk-inspired cocktail venue.
- Lioness at Sea Containers Hotel, London - Notable for its exceptional service and inventive cocktails, especially non-alcoholic options.
- Notable mention of Holiday Cocktail Lounge, a quintessential dive bar from the past.
- Tiny Cocktails Explained
- Definition: Tiny cocktails are typically half the volume of regular cocktails, allowing for lower ABV consumption without sacrificing flavor.
- Reasons for Popularity:
- Provides a solution for moderation in drinking culture.
- Allows people to enjoy more flavors while controlling alcohol intake.
- Glassware Importance:
- Utilizing smaller vessels is suggested to enhance visual presentation and experience.
- Recipe Highlights from "Tiny Cocktails"
- Chapters Organized by Occasion:
- Amuse-Bouches: Light, citrusy drinks for welcoming guests.
- Nightcaps: Richer drinks for ending the evening.
- Little Luxuries: Featuring finer ingredients and spirits.
- Notable Recipes:
- Golden (from Agostino Perone, Conant Bar): Tequila, grapefruit sherbet, cooled jasmine tea, Galliano.
- Fiesta on Warren: A mezcal-tequila margarita with grapefruit.
- Sea Fire Colada: A champagne piña colada inspired drink.
- Balancing Work and Wellness in the Cocktail Industry
- Tyler shares insights into managing alcohol consumption as a professional in the cocktail industry.
- Discusses personal experiences with moderation and health, emphasizing mindfulness and knowing personal limits.
- Transition to Bonny Reichert
- Bonny Reichert introduces her memoir "How to Share an Egg," discussing themes of family, resilience, and personal growth.
- Reflects on her father's experiences as a Holocaust survivor and the importance of food in their family narrative.
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Key Takeaways
- Cocktail Culture Evolution: The trend towards smaller cocktails reflects a broader shift towards moderation and enjoyment without overindulgence.
- Community and Connection: The cocktail industry thrives on two main pillars: quality drinks and creating a welcoming environment for guests.
- Personal Growth through Food: Both Tyler’s and Bonny’s stories emphasize how food serves as a conduit for personal and familial connection, as well as cultural heritage.
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Conclusion The episode combines insights on the cocktail revolution with personal narratives surrounding food, family, and cultural identity, showcasing how these elements interconnect in profound ways. Both Tyler's and Bonny's stories highlight the importance of moderation, community, and the rich tapestry of memories that food can evoke.
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Additional Links
- Podcast Website: [TASTE Cooking](https://tastecooking.com)
- Tyler Zielinski's Book: "Tiny Cocktails"
- Bonny Reichert's Memoir: "How to Share an Egg"
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. And I like to say that they're the fashionable way of drinking low ABV, where you're enjoying all the flavor that you typically have with your cocktails that you know and love, but without all the overindulgence of, you know, having five full-size cocktails. You could have five tiny cocktails. You get all the same value and flavor, and you could just keep going without, you know, being on the floor by the end of it. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbard. Tyler Zielinski is a London-based drinks professional and has written for his places like Punch, Eater, Food & Wine, and other publications.
1:07On this episode, we talk about his very cool debut cookbook, Tiny Cocktails. We also dig into where Tyler likes to drink in his hometown of London and what makes an extraordinary cocktail experience. Also on the show, I have a great conversation with Bonnie Reichert. She is the author of a terrific new memoir, How to Share an Egg, A true story of hunger, love, and plenty. I hope you enjoy these conversations.
1:41Tyler Zalinski, welcome to This Is Taste. How are you doing? Very well. How are you? Yeah, great. It's nice to talk to somebody on the ground in London. We're going to get into, you know, what you're observing there, but we're also going to talk about your great new book, Tiny Cocktails, and what exactly that is. But before we get to the book, let's just talk about bar culture in general, the cocktail scene. You write about it extensively for great publications. But in 2025, what are you seeing? What is exciting you in the cocktail world? Yeah, I would say it's a difficult question. I would say, you know, I think as your career goes on and as you see more of what's going on in cocktail culture, fewer things excite you I think generally and I think that's something probably most people in the industry might resonate with but I think personally I'd say it's this genre of like five star dive bars that has become increasingly popular probably over the last half decade these are venues that aren't really pretentious but they care about as much about the cocktails as they do the 360 guest experience they're about the vibe and they're not shoving technique down guests' throats which I think that behavior always alienates people.
2:55And it's something that we see a bit more in serious cocktail bars, which they do have their time and place. But I think it's this kind of like bars where you could just let your hair down, but also have a great cocktail. The music's good. And there's some other element to the experience, whether that be live music or some sort of performance or games or some added layer other than just the liquid in the glass. So I would say, generally speaking, kind of that genre of bar. Great drinks are everywhere now. And if you have an incredible cocktail program, but of course, as you mentioned, like a great band is playing or music or, you know, great food or the space is unique.
3:33I mean, give me a couple of these five-star dive bars that you've been to maybe in London or New York or wherever you've traveled. Yeah, so I would say, so five-star dive bar, if you've heard of Schmuck, which is opening in New York City imminently. by Mo and Juliet, who used to work at Two Schmucks in Barcelona. They kind of coined that term and I think have also set, were really trendsetters in this space. I think Paradise Lost, which I haven't been to in New York City, but it's kind of this like dark, edgy, tropical cocktail bar. So it's sort of like, you know, quote unquote, tiki style drinks, but in a setting that's kind of like hardcore punk, which I think is super badass.
4:22I also haven't been to Yacht Club in Denver, but similar vibes. And then, yeah, I mean, I'm a sucker for just a dive bar in general. But I think those are a few off the top of my head that I've seen both been to and from afar that I personally enjoy. Well, I love this movement, and it reminds me of the reboot at Holiday Cocktail Lounge on St. Mark's maybe eight or nine years ago. And I used to go there when it was a real dive bar, literally the only place I've ever had Heineken Dark, which like, holy cow, what a grail. But then they, of course, you know, brought in great talent and decided to make it actually a spiffy place.
4:59Dude, Holiday Cocktail Lounge is one I haven't been to in ages since I used to live in New York. But that is the quintessential five-star dive bar. That's exactly what I'm talking about. You know, this bar was just like great vibes. I remember, you know, having a couple shots, a couple daiquiris. And like, next thing I know, I was just like, you know, belting out bangers because, I mean, the playlist was just so, so fire. Yeah, that bar is awesome. So cool. And now let's move to London, though. Like, you know, any cocktail bar doesn't have to be in the five-star dive bar range, but I just returned recently, and I had a great time just, you know, reintroducing myself to the city.
5:35But where are you drinking in London? Ooh, actually, first, I'm actually curious where you came in London, but I'm happy to share mine as well. Oh, no doubt. I mean, I'm, like, not a drinker. I'm an NA guy. Um, so it wasn't really hitting, but I remember having some great nights at Kulu Kale and, you know, some back in the day, London was an incredible cocktail town. Um, I, I mean, I, I was on the restaurant tip. I went to St. John bread and I went to a great, great meal at Pally Hill and Rambutan. Nice. That's the hit list. Yeah. Trying. I'm trying, you know, I, I feel like I had some great intel.
6:11Some good friends reached out, but for yourself, I mean, you, you write about food, you write about drinks. So you're, you're really tapped in. What are you seeing in London? I'm always curious about where people go. So yeah, I appreciate you sharing some of that. Yeah, for myself, it really depends. I think, obviously, I go out a lot for work, and that's a mixture of bars and restaurants. But I think I always like to share where I prefer to go, like on my own personal time, because I think that's really representative if you know the place that I love. And I think it really depends. I think London is one of, I think, probably, I think the greatest city for cocktail bars in the world.
6:46Just like the sheer volume of great bars, I think relative to other cities is something that's really special about London. And there's a little bit of everything. So, you know, for like special occasions might find myself in Conant Bar having, you know, their iconic table side martini service. Side hustle at the Nomad is a massive favorite of mine. You know, you could have exceptional Mexican food. I think some of the best in london um paired with latin tunes and i mean you could get great classic cocktails there and they're poured in ounces uh not ml so that they keep it american which i find comforting uh because i'm a big uh american classics guy you know that's that 60 or two ounces 60 milliliters versus that 50 milliliters makes a really big difference in a in a daiquiri for example um or margarita.
7:36I also love Lioness, which is at the Sea Containers Hotel on the South Bank. You know, I think the hospitality and service is just always so exceptional. You're right on the Thames. So the view is gorgeous. You can see St. Paul's Cathedral. They actually recently received three pins from the Pinnacle Guide, which is the kind of Michelin Guide for the bar industry, which was a pretty big deal. They're the first bar to do it or to get that recognition. And I think deservedly so, you know, the cocktails are so inventive and actually for non-drinkers like yourself, highly recommend going because I think they do some of the best non-alcoholics in, I think, in London just because the ingredients are so, and there's so much effort and inspiration behind every component that they create.
8:29Like right now they have an ingredient that's inspired by like potato smiley. So it's kind of like this like unctuous, like carby, almost like liquid French fry basically of an ingredient that they use. And I believe the cocktail is called the Diamante Swizzle. But yeah, they like really nerd out, they get into fermentation, kind of they look at biology as well. And like, yeah, I think what they do there is phenomenal. But for the most part, though, I mean, you mostly will find me at a pub or dive bar. I think when your whole life is going to cocktail bars for work and restaurants, like most times I just want to like sit in a pub, have a fine pint of Guinness, like have a couple of snacks and keep it pretty low key.
9:12But when I do go out, yes, it's some of these ones that I just named, they're places that I'll typically stop by. Yeah. Well, Tyler, great wrecks. I mean, our friend Chloe Frechette, I remember at Punch, you know, talking about Lioness back in the day. and I have to remind everyone to read your work on Punch, you know, a terrific publication I used to edit at and really it reminds me with the Guinness. I popped over to Dublin and had a bunch of N.A. Guinness 00s and some cool drinks, but there's a bar in Dublin called The Big Romance that I want to call out on the show because we're talking about cocktails.
9:49This is a really special place for me because their N.A. beers were so, They had Asahi. They had a couple of local Dublin NAs. They had really cool, for me at least, they had Tangeray Zero Zero, which is impossible to find in the States. And also just a really great bar in Dublin. Sorry, I'm giving my rec right now because I think this is a great bar. Oh, yeah. I mean, I think this needs to be collaborative because, you know, I'm going to say things that inspire you and vice versa. I think that's where all those organic recommendations come from. them. No doubt. Well, let's get onto your book, The Tiny Cocktail.
10:28And I love a book that has concept and really makes the case from word one that this is a thing that you need to know about. And cookbooks and drinks books are written over years. So you really were predicting the future with Tiny Cocktails because you really hit something that is very much trending in 2025. So first off, just explain exactly what a tiny cocktail is. Yeah, so a tiny cocktail, in essence, is basically a drink that's about half the portion of your typical size cocktail. And so that depends on the format. So, for example, you know, there's a sour style cocktail. You know, there's daisies and highballs and fixes.
11:13And so if you look at kind of like all these prototypes for cocktails, the volume will vary. And in the book, I have a guide to tiny glassware, which I think is the biggest barrier to entry for creating tiny cocktails. But at the same time, you know, you pop into any secondhand shop or charity shop or you might even have these vessels at home. I think, yeah, really, basically, it's just the volume of the drink. And I like to say that they're the fashionable way of drinking low ABV where you're enjoying all the flavor that you would typically have with your cocktails that you know and love. but without all the overindulgence of, you know, having five full-size cocktails.
11:51You could have five tiny cocktails, get all the same value and flavor, and you could just keep going without, you know, being on the floor by the end of it. Very cool to frame it, you know, as having some sense of moderation with drinking cocktails. I think that was like my biggest problem with writing about cocktails is that if you're trying to survey a restaurant or a bar and try to get a sense of what they're doing, you have to drink like, you know, 14 ounces of straight alcohol, which, you know, for some, maybe not the best, but you're solving this problem with your book. And the glassware question, you know, I really respect glassware, but I'll say just looking at the book, this is just a great home book for folks who just want to scale down their alcohol consumption, even if you don't have the glassware.
12:36I know this may be disrespectful to your work, but I'm just saying like you could put in any old glass. And just the way that you've written these recipes are really terrific. Just the smarts there to get us that flavor profile, but like half the alcohol. Yeah, thanks. Thanks so much. Yeah, I think at home, you know, it's more about what the cocktail looks like. And, you know, and I think in the age of social media, we want the drinks that we create at home to also look good because, you know, I think people really take pride in that. So, you know, if you use a full-size cocktail glass you're making a tiny like a tiny cocktail recipe it's gonna look almost like your glass is half full which we don't want and so a lot of like you can you can very much do that if you just purely want to enjoy the liquid and half its volume but if you are someone who likes to you know snap a photo or if you're hosting guests and like I don't want them to feel like I've I've shorted them you know a full drink you want to get the proper vessels to serve them in.
13:34But yeah, it's by no means requisite, but highly recommended. Of course, well said. I think you definitely wanna, you wanna post on the gram if you're putting through all the steps and making it beautiful. Give me a couple recipes and we can talk all day about the different chapters and categories, but give me a sense of the actual, like the highlights recipe-wise. Yeah, so in the book, I've broken cocktails into three chapters and they're by occasion. We kind of went back and forth about how we would organize the recipes. And we ended up going with amuse-bouches. So these are, you know, aperitif-style drinks that are great for welcomes or palate cleansers.
14:14Then we have nightcaps, so cocktails to finish your evening with. And then a chapter called Little Luxuries. And so I'll briefly talk about kind of how, what types of drinks are housed within each. And then a few of my favorites. So within amuse-bouches, these are going to be drinks that are light, citrusy, fresh, uplifting. Then you have nightcaps, things that are a bit either richer or even caffeinated. I think part of the appeal of tiny cocktails as well from that perspective is sometimes at the end of the night, people go opt for an espresso martini, which is very popular these days. but a full espresso martini at, let's say, 12 a.m.
14:56might keep you up a bit later than you intended. So a tiny version kind of gets you that little bump of energy that you need, but without keeping you up all night. And the same thing with more decadent drinks. So those are housed within nightcaps. Now we have the little luxuries. So I think sometimes we spend a bit more on a finer spirit or say even vintage spirits, which are, you know, some people do collect those. And you don't want to create an entire, a full cocktail with that really expensive ingredient or spirit you bought. So you just want to use a little bit of it. And little luxuries are perfect for that.
15:33But also that chapter kind of uses finer ingredients, both custom-made ones. So ones that take a little bit longer to prep at home, or maybe they're seasonal ingredients that are fleeting. And so I've broken up into those three chapters. And a couple of my favorite recipes. so there's a mix of most of the recipes in the book are mine but there is a selection of about 15 or so recipes from some of the world's best bartenders which is which is pretty exciting and as someone who's really close to bartenders in the bar industry i kind of wanted to show some love for some of the friends that i've made along the way so one recipe from a bartender actually from the conat bar which i was mentioning before is a agostino perone he included a cocktail and it's called Golden.
16:16And it was a welcome drink at the Conant Bar one period of time, which is quite cool. And he was kind enough to share his recipe. And it's a mixture of tequila, grapefruit sherbet, cooled jasmine tea, and then Galliano. It's very delicious, very fresh, easy drinking. And then a couple of the other drinks that I love, Fiesta on Warren is one. I used to work at this cocktail bar, helped open it called Lawrence Park in Hudson, New York. It sadly shuttered after COVID, but it's basically like a split-base mezcal tequila margarita with grapefruit that's adjusted with some acid powders just because grapefruit juice, if you don't adjust it with some acid powders, it's not acidic enough to balance the sweetness, but it's really delicious.
17:04is it's somewhere in between a margarita and paloma uh and then one called the sea fire colada which is uh like the champagne pina colada meets ramos gin fizz for all my my cocktail nerds and lovers out there um and it's inspired by a drink that i had at the kimpton sea fire resort and spa in the cayman islands called the escape and it's basically a simplified version of that and it is utterly delicious i love a ramos spin i think ramos is one of those like grill cocktails that you know, in your New Orleans and you're, you're checking out, uh, you know, the scene there, you, you gotta have your Ramos, but of course, if you can riff on those flavors and make it, you know, work at home, hell yeah, I'm here for it.
17:43Yeah. And it's, it's so simple and it's like the effort to value ratio is really high. Um, like it just does not take much. You just pull a few ingredients off the back bar and boom, it's, it's great. And, uh, actually that drink, it's, uh, you can serve it in a tasting glass. So most people have one of those at home. From February 20th to March 7th, dive into Canada's biggest culinary festival, Montreal en Lumière, an exclusive partnership with the McCord Stewart Museum and its exhibition, On the Menu Montreal, a restaurant story. The 2026 festival invites food lovers on a flavorful journey through time.
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20:17Terms and conditions apply. Don't miss drinking, but I certainly miss the industry and talking with, you know, folks who center the bar culture and the craft of cocktail, you know, in their world. And I just I have such deep respect for people in that world. Yeah, man, I think it is it is a very special industry. You know, it's one that I've gravitated towards and just have not been able to escape. and I touch various parts of the business from bar consulting to journalism to content creation. And the people that you meet, whether it be producers, bartenders, even enthusiastic guests who are bar flies who are always tagging along to, whether it be tales of the cocktail and are these trade shows.
21:03It really is a special industry built around connection. And I think wherever you go in the world, you're not really a stranger in the bar industry, which I think is one of the most beautiful parts of it. Well, let me ask you about working in the industry and just thinking about moderation and health. I've had some great conversations with Jim Meehan on and off mic about this topic, and really being a professional in this industry is challenging with so much consumption around you. How do you, Tyler, how do you square that? Yeah, I think it's something I'm struggling with a bit more in recent years.
21:39is, you know, I'm 31 now, I'm relatively young, I guess, in the grand scheme of people in the industry. But as I age, I'm someone who's a bit more, I would say in touch with with their body, you know, I played sports growing up. And so I'm a bit sensitive and how I feel and how I'm performing. And I've noticed, you know, when I go out and drink, how it affects my professional, my professional life. You know, I work, I've been freelance for seven years now, and I've been working for myself. So, you know, if I'm hungover and I don't work the next day, I don't, you know, I don't make money. And so that for me, that's an issue.
22:16And how I've tried to navigate that is really just going out less. In London, I've moved about as far out as possible. I live in Richmond at the moment, which is Ted Lasso land for anyone who's watched the show on Apple TV. It is a lovely part of the world. But it is, it is, it takes me about at least 45 minutes to get anywhere in central London, 45 minutes to an hour. And so kind of removing myself from the, I think the temptation of, you know, going to too many events and going out and be like, oh yeah, I'll just, you know, I'll meet them for a couple of drinks. Instead of going out, three, four nights a week, I'm going out, you know, one or two.
22:54And I think just knowing yourself, I think is really important. I know that I could easily be tempted. I'm such a yes man and a people pleaser. Um, and which I think, you know, that comes from, you know, working in hospitality, we want to take care of people and we want to say yes. And we want to make sure people have a good time, but, um, that can never be at the expense of, you know, ourselves and our own health. So, um, I think, you know, knowing your limits as well, you know, I'll mix in if I have a martini, you know, I might mix in something low ABV drink, obviously lots of water. Um, so yeah, I think, I think it's just mindfulness and knowing yourself and.
23:29Yeah. I, you know, I, Tyler, I would love to work on a story with you or maybe you'll write it for somebody else about the 31st year, the 32nd year of your life working in cocktails. I recall that time myself. I'm 45 now and listen or 44. I just gave myself a few extra months. But really, that is a real rubber hits the road moment. You articulated it beautifully about how you got to take yourself out of the game a little bit at that 31st year. Yeah, man. We see in this industry, not to get too dark, but people getting sick and people sadly passing away and stuff from things that alcohol definitely can cause.
24:14And it's something that I think in the industry we're having more open conversations about in recent years, which I think is really positive. And so, yeah, I think we all have to be honest with ourselves. I hate to be a bummer. Alcohol, it tends to be fun and fun environments. But at the end of the day, especially for me, I have a wife, family planning in the future. If we have kids, I want us to be able to see our kids grow up and stuff like that. So thinking about, I think, the long term and not always just living in the moment. And joie de vivre isn't always the most positive thing when we're surrounded by heaps and heaps of booze.
24:54What a thoughtful response. I really appreciate it. And I think you're really a great case for somebody who can really immerse themselves in cocktails and the history and, you know, the culture and, of course, the craft and the recipe building, but not be, you know, a bar fly is a term. And not to sound too boring, you know, listen, like I love to go out and have a party, you know, like I'm good for like a, you know, a 3am or every once in a while. Hell yeah. You know, this is not my norm. And I think that's the thing. You know, people see, I'm sure, you know, on Instagram, life looks like really glamorous and fun and sometimes a bit funner than it actually is.
25:34So I think that's also important because I think we're always chasing and being like, oh, I want to be like that person and doing what they're doing and not seeing kind of what's going on behind the scenes. because there's many times, you know, I'm burnt out or if I'm not posting on Instagram, it's probably because I need some like personal time away from it all. So I think, you know, being mindful of what you're seeing and then, yeah, what's I think actually happening. Yeah, yeah. Truth versus reality. It's a really interesting dynamic when we're talking about social and real. But I have to ask you before we go, let's switch over to restaurants because I feel like restaurants are, of course, have great bar programs, but we're a food show primarily.
26:16So, you know, in your travels and you travel extensively, you know, are there any, you know, favorite restaurants that you've visited, you know, for the food and, and, and you can, you know, cocktails of course are part of it, but anything you, you really just had a great meal at recently. Ooh. Um, so I'm, I'm going to show some love for London. I do get to travel and I do get to go to some really special restaurants, one of which is now a museum, which I think many foodies on here will be well familiar with, El Bui in Spain, which is one of the pioneering gastronomic temples for cuisine. But in terms of great meals that I've had in London this year, Lita in Marlebone, it's this Mediterranean restaurant.
27:02The chef worked at a Michelin-starred restaurant called Buca here. It's an Italian joint known for exquisite pastas. And they do pasta very well. I took my wife there actually for her birthday last May and then went recently in that like bitwixmas period, between Christmas and New Year. And man, I was just almost fresh. I was like, how is every single dish so good? And the cooking was just phenomenal. I think Lita is definitely one. Fondo, which just opened recently. is quite a hot spot here in London as well. It's opened up by Santiago Alastra, who has Coal, which is a one Michelin-starred restaurant.
27:44And they, I believe, 23 on the world's 50 best restaurants list. He's opened, it's a bit more casual. Still, you know, still pricey, but really, really well done. And I think, you know, for people who haven't, are hesitant to splash the cash on Coal, I think Fonda's, maybe they're not familiar with Mexican cuisine because that's pretty much on the up and up here in London. It's been a really good gateway, I think, for Cole, which also one of my favorite meals that I've had in London, that one. Great, Rex. It is truly one of the greatest restaurant cities in the world, if not the greatest. Sorry, New York, but London is super great.
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28:25So thanks for sharing that. On This Is Taste, we have discussed about the discerning taste. So to close this interview, here's a little rapid fire fast and furious taste check. Are you ready? I think so. All right. The best fruit. I'm going to go tomatoes. You went there. It's technically correct. And I'm all for this. Tell me why. Why are you drawn to the tomato? Because a good beefy tomato, if you just pair it with some fresh mozzarella basil and good olive oil, maybe a sprinkle of sea salt is just like one of life's finest pleasures. and especially I think right now London's quite cold. That's just like a bit of sunshine on a plate.
29:01The worst vegetable. That's a tough one. I'm going to go celery. It has its haters. Why aren't you into it? I don't know. The thing is, you know, it's great in like a bolognese. Like it serves its purpose, but overall it's just like a bit fibrous. It can get stuck in your teeth. It's not very flavorful. Yeah, it's just a bit boring, but I don't hate it. You know, I'll eat it. Yeah, you'll eat it when necessary. Okay, the best dessert. It really depends on the day, but lately I've really been missing Magnolia Bakery's banana pudding, if that counts. It certainly counts. And you know what? The lines speak for themselves.
29:36You can be a hater about tourist spots, but yeah, it's really a restaurant you wish you could bring back from the dead.
29:47Yeah. Yeah, if you were lucky enough to go, what a place. What a place. your favorite cocktail book of all time stuck between a couple uh i would have to say i think liquid intelligence by dave arnold uh just because it's been like so influential and it's still relevant today even though it was written i think it was 2013 or 2014 is when it was published basically a decade ago um yeah he's a mad mad scientist and yeah if you've not been to bar contra in new york city that is his new bar i would highly recommend going to visit very cool place bar contra absolutely last one your favorite sandwich oh eggplant parm uh specifically from mike sandwich shop in nutley new jersey uh i'm from new jersey and uh yeah i have to give my little my home state a shout out shout out to a jersey sub or a jersey grinder or whatever you know a parm is is what it is and jersey does it does it the best so tyler zielinski thank you so much for joining this is taste
30:56Bonnie Riker, thank you so much for joining. This is Taste. How are you? I'm great. How are you? Well, I loved your book, How to Share an Egg. I read it in a couple of days. It's such a cool story with many layers, and we're going to go over many of those. You're an accomplished food writer and editor, but this is your first memoir, And it tells the story of your family, of your father, who is a Holocaust survivor. And so we're going to go over all of it. But first, when you're in New York, where do you like to go? What are some of the restaurants that you like? Usually I stay downtown. So last night I went to Servos.
31:34I had never been there. Have you been there? Yeah, it's great. It was fabulous. Great. You know, I was alone, sat at the counter, ate those crunchy shrimp heads. Have you had those? There. It's like the stuff I liked to eat when I was a little kid and became embarrassed about and started to hide. And now that's trendy, so that's fabulous. I never don't go to Russ and Daughters when I come into town. I like Altro Paradiso for a bit of an occasion or Estella, Balthazar for breakfast, for an old-fashioned breakfast. Those are some of my faves. I sort of have places I go to over and over again and then add a new place.
32:09Like I was at Penny in the summer. That was pretty special. So you find yourself in New York quite a bit. You live in Toronto, but you come down here quite a bit. A fair bit, maybe three, four times a year. Nice. Yeah. But what about Toronto? Like, what's the food scene like there? I feel like we don't talk about Toronto enough. And it's an amazing food scene from what I've been told. I haven't been in years. Yeah, it's a very diverse city. So we've got all kinds of food and all kinds of people, lots of cultures mixing together, which is fabulous. Yeah. It's like a mini New York in the way that everybody is running to the new hot restaurant.
32:42And getting reservations can be murder. So I find myself looking for places that don't take reservations and going at weird times. Right. That's our little insider trick. Big tip. Don't, you know, go for dinner at 5 o 'clock. So we have like a sake bar. Like it's called Bar Sakai. Fabulous, fabulous place. We go at 545. That's it. That works. And a place called Dottie's in the West End. Different types of cuisine. There's a great restaurant group that's like modern Chinese. One place is called Mimi Chinese. Very spicy. Have you heard of it? You're nodding. No, I'm like nodding because I want to go there.
33:22Oh, it's so good. So, so good. And then it's sort of little sister is Sonny's Chinese. So there's all kinds of things. Exciting times in Toronto. I got to get up there and do some work and visit the restaurants. So with How to Share an Egg, you sit down to write a story about your father Saul and his life. But in reading the book, it feels outpours so much more. I mean, there's a definite tension and dichotomy between your story and your father's, and they weave together so beautifully. But tell me in your words, what's the theme of your book? I've started to call the book a memoir wrapped around a family story.
34:04Yeah. So it's my story wrapped around this story of his, which is about survival and resilience and even joy, actually, joy triumphing over misery. And there is a tension there because my dad always wanted me to write his story. And as soon as I was old enough to be really terrified of the Holocaust, I did not want to write this story. And yet I wanted to honor him. And I felt truly flattered that he wanted to work with me on it because he's an amazing, amazing man, 94 years old now. So there was a tension. And I honestly never thought I'd figure out how to do it. I avoided and avoided. and then I saw my way in through food.
34:53There was a pivotal moment and I had been to chef school by that time and I started to see food as a through line through this whole story, all these different steps. And that's when I figured out that I could write my story wrapped around this other story. Yeah, and you'll tease out or dip back into your father's story and then you'll come back and tell your story in a linear fashion And the chapters are very short. And I love that the way it's formatted, because I think that just gets us through the book much quicker. And I want to start in Edmonton where you grew up and your Baba's cooking.
35:29You know, this is really beautiful writing here about, you know, the smells that were wafting from the kitchen and maybe not all positive smells. You know, she was an immigrant and she she had a very specific way of cooking that clearly informed you. But but take us to that kitchen with Baba. Yes. So this is my mother's mother. My father's family was killed in the Holocaust. So my mother, I had a very small family, but my mother's mother was from Ukraine. And she had come a generation before. My dad came. My mom was born in Edmonton. And my Baba Sarah was an unbelievable cook. It was so natural to her.
36:10It was just part of her. And she was quite rotund and really inhabited. She didn't live with us, but when she came, she sort of inhabited the whole kitchen. And my parents traveled a little bit, and Baba would take over the kitchen. And I would wake up in the morning, and you just did not know what would greet you. And it was the smell first that you would discover. So I would come down and very often she would bake cinnamon rolls with, you know, like sticky pecan toffee on them or cheese knishes or potato knishes, delicious things. But yes, she also made some strange things in the middle of the night when she couldn't sleep.
36:57For example, lung. I've never heard of anybody else waking up to the smell of lung. And it had a very particular smell. And what's funny is that my sisters, I'm the youngest of four, my sisters would be completely grossed out by this smell. And it was gross. It really was. But there was something kind of fascinating about it. It was the same as when I went into a fish shop and it was kind of smelly. Well, it's life. There's something about it. It's like so carnal to like have like, you know, a fish or have like this awful meat cooking. You're like smelling life. Yeah, that's exactly it. It was it was interesting to me.
37:38And I guess I should have known then instead of when I turned 40 that I needed to go to chef school. Yeah. Yeah. You have a career and a life that that takes you all over, you know, Canada, United States. And and I will get into that. But back to Edmonton, while you've got Baba Sarah cooking on the weekends when your folks are traveling, you have a father who's in the restaurant business. And he's not cooking the food that he grew up on. He's cooking something else. He's creating food for the people of Edmonton. What's it like having these two different, you know, big food personalities in your life?
38:14It sounds like it would be confusing when I hear you say that, but it wasn't confusing. There were so many contradictions in my childhood. You know, I had this father and grandmother from different sides that wanted to feed us all the time. And then I had a mother that was a little neurotic about being thin because she had this, you know, very large mother. So she was always worried that we would eat too much. You'd think that we would have been so messed up, but somehow it all worked out. But back to your question. My Baba Sarah worked with my dad at the restaurant. So they actually collaborated.
38:48and the things that we served there were not old country Jewish cuisine, but there were glimmers of it. It was very fusion in its own way. So my dad had the idea that we would have delis, and he had heard about delis. This was, you know, in the 50s, 60s. He had heard about the delis in New York and L.A., and he had the idea that this is what he would do. And he did the research and we made corned beef and we made roast beef. So we had those things. And we made fabulous sandwiches, Reuben's. And the sandwiches had all these names, the downtowner, the panorama. Of course. Like Cantor's or Cat's is.
39:30You got to have names. Exactly. So we had those. But then my mom got involved and my mom had this idea that we should have fancier things because my mom wanted to be Canadian. My air quotes, because what was Canadian cuisine? There is no such thing as Canadian cuisine. But my mom had the idea that fancy steaks would be a good idea and lobster tails would be a good idea. They came to the table with the melted butter over the little candle. Over the flame, yeah. Yeah. And a salad bar would be, you know, chic and glamorous and cocktails like Golden Cadillacs and, you know, Harvey Wallbangers. So I'm really dating.
40:11I'm really dating myself here. But remember, I was a little child. But so our restaurants were sort of this amalgam. And then a few Jewish things did slip onto the menu, like there was chopped liver on the menu and Baba's Blinces were on the menu. So it was really a mix. So tell me about Edmonton. From what I know, it doesn't seem like there would be a large Jewish population in Edmonton. So clearly he's marketing this Jewish deli to everybody. What's it like as a business for him? He worked very hard. He just told me this the other day, 364 days a year. I mean, he had managers, but he was open 364 days a year, only closed Christmas Day.
40:57And he was very successful. We certainly didn't market only to Jewish people. You're right, we would have starved if we had done that, 5 ,000 people or whatever it was, 6 ,000 people. These restaurants, so we had Teddy's and we had another one called The Carousel. And then he had a little bit of a hotel and then he bought and sold different places later on. Oh, right. This is the guy. He's like a Danny Meyer kind of guy. Well, in a very small scale. But he came to Canada with$2 in his pocket. That's amazing. So he really started to figure it out. And the places were, you know, not famous but known, you know, known.
41:34And people knew that they could get great food and a great value, high quality. They were known. I want to just dive into your father's story a little more. You know, he's considered a survivor. I mean, that's the modern lexicon for somebody who has lived through the Holocaust. But he's, you know, more than just surviving. You know, we're talking about his businesses here. He's thriving. I just want to know, Bonnie, like that term survivor, you write about this in the book. You know, what does that mean to you, you know, having lived with your father for all these years? Part of my motivation in writing the book was to show what a family like ours really is, because I think people have a lot of stereotypes of what a survivor is or what a family of survivors are, or even what trauma looks like.
42:26and we never talked about trauma, but I suppose we have it. You know, I suppose it's in the book, but there's a lot of joy in the book and a lot of my father is a very grateful, joyful, fun-loving person. And I think that when he survived and found himself starting this new life in Canada, he acquired a sense of wonder. And I write about this in the book that that word is, you know, I looked it up and I looked up Descartes when he first talked about wonder what it is. And it's about seeing things in a fresh, new way. And I think that when he made that journey and he found himself in Canada, he was marveling at his good fortune and that never left him.
43:14And he taught us that. He loved nature and he loves pleasure and he loves beauty. And yes, he is a lot more than a survivor. Wow, that's powerful. I mean, I'd love to meet him one day. I'd love to talk to him about food. He'd love to meet you. He's like that. I'd love to talk food about him. But you do such a great job of telling his story, but weaving in your story. And it's such a delicate balance. And you do such a great job. And part of your story is through a bowl of borscht. Now, we always hear about the term of a life-changing dish. It's almost a cliche in food writing. But reading about this borscht in Poland, it seems that this dish really did change your life.
44:01It changed your understanding for Polish cuisine. It gave you a sense of your own self. I have a couple of questions. I want to know more about this borscht, about what is it on the table, and then just set up where you enjoyed the borscht and what it meant to you. First of all, borscht was never something I loved. I mean, I have, I had, maybe I still have this sort of love-hate relationship with this food of my heritage. You know, it's a little bit like early on in his career, I heard David Chang say that he was so embarrassed to have people over because of the smell of kimchi in his house, his mother's kimchi.
44:36And I really connected to that. So, you know, the food that we ate was a little weird and it was a little smelly and it was a little, you know, sort of lots of awful and, you know, these things that I was talking about. So I didn't have a lot of respect for this food that even sometimes I loved. But borscht was not something I loved. The grownups would blend sour cream into it, and it was this pink, viscous liquid that did not appeal to me, which made it even more surprising that when I'm served this bowl of borscht in Warsaw, where I do not want to be and I'm dying to get home, it speaks to me.
45:15It absolutely spoke to me. It was clear and cool and very simple, very honest. And it came with these gorgeous garnishes, sour cream and chopped cucumber and little cubes of potato and fresh dill. And I was sitting in this shabby restaurant. Cigarette smoke is everywhere. Cigarette smoke. I had a terrible headache. It was raining. I just wanted to get home. My mom was, you know, complaining. She was not feeling well. And out comes this bowl of borscht that is absolutely transformative. Wow. Have you attempted it in your kitchen? Yes, yes. I have a recipe. It's not hard. It's not hard to make borscht.
46:01It's really, to me, the less you do, the better. There's, you know, you make the liquid just by boiling the beets and then you set the beets aside and you season the liquid with a little bit of vinegar, sugar, salt, and then you grate the beets and you put them back in. There is not that much more to it. And then you just have the right garnishes. And then you have the right garnishes. The cucumber was cool. Yeah. That I've not had. It was lovely. It was just so clean and simple. And I realized, I mean, you know, what is a beet but a root, right? And there is my root there in Warsaw. So when I came home, I started to think about that, the sort of the metaphorical significance.
46:41And it's not just a turn of phrase because my own grandmother would have made, you know, my father's mother, Udall, who I try to conjure in the book almost like a ghost, would have made borscht like that with beets from Poland. So I really felt connected to my heritage there, which precedes the Holocaust. Well, you mentioned that you were kind of dragged to Poland. And, you know, you mentioned you write about the scene visiting a tomb of your ancestors. And it's the reason you're there. Your father, who had not been back, is finally like, I need to go back to Warsaw. I need to see this tomb of my ancestors.
47:24It's really powerful writing there. And it's a beautiful section of the book. I'd love to get a sense of what it's like to see this tomb of your ancestors with your father. It's got to be pretty heavy. It was really beautiful. I went with a very bad attitude. I'm not going to lie. I had been raised, you're not going to Poland. You don't need to go to Poland. You're not going to Germany. You don't need to go to Germany. I suffered enough. You don't have to go there and have an emotional meltdown. This is from your father and your mother. Yeah, especially my dad. My mother wouldn't want to go for a different reason.
48:02My mother wouldn't want to go because it's not, you know, it's not upscale. It's not gorgeous. So that would be my mother. And my dad wouldn't want his children to suffer because, you know, suffer in the same way that he did. So he was very protective. And then he hears that there is a tomb in this cemetery in Warsaw. And the Jewish cemetery in Warsaw is extraordinary. It's all overgrown. It's massive. It's like a little city. Incredible. I don't know how it survived. And he says, we're going to Warsaw. And I said, Dad, I don't want to go to Warsaw. And I'm busy. And my kids need me. And he said, come on.
48:43We'll go for three days. And we'll stay in a beautiful hotel. And we'll just go to the cemetery. and that's it. And of course, he's not someone you want to say no to. So I allowed myself to be dragged there. And it was on the last day that we went to the cemetery. And there's like a shomer, like a guide that helps you find... Knows the layout of the cemetery. Yes. You give him a little tip and he helps you find what you're looking for because it is massive and everything's in Hebrew and there's no rhyme or reason to it. And we walk up and we don't know whose tomb this is. My dad has only heard that it's a family tomb.
49:28And we walk up, the ground is uneven and it's raining and, you know, it's sort of a bit of a nightmare, although it's phenomenal in there. And we step up and the guide says, here it is. And we step up and my dad walks up to the tomb and he sort of brushes off the moss and he's reading his own name on the tomb because it's his grandfather's tomb. And it's a very beautiful tomb. Instead of just being a simple little stone, it's big and ornate with a fancy curved top. And this shows that his grandfather had status in the community. That's the kind of status that is not about money. And not even about education, but like a religious kind of status that my dad had a special word for.
50:21And you could see how much this meant to my father. Because he didn't just lose his family. He lost his whole way of life. This whole sort of Hasidic lifestyle lineage. And here was a chunk of this missing life that was real for him. And it was amazing to see. Wow, Bonnie, that's quite the story. And I recommend picking up this book and reading how, you know, you connect the dots. It's a remarkable way of using this scene because it appears a little bit at the beginning and then it closes. So it kind of makes sense, I'm going to say, like with the narrative. And I just really love it, the way you tell both sides of the story.
51:09Thank you. Thanks. I want to ask you about your career in food media. You know, you've worked in as a food editor based in Toronto. And I you mentioned before that there is no Canadian food, which I mean, I want to push. I want to like push back and be like, like, tell me why you say that. And really tell me about the kind of the work you you've done. What would our Canadian national cuisine be? I'm trying to think. Like if there were other people here, would they disagree with me? I just can't think of what it would be. It wouldn't. Could you say it's poutine? That comes from Quebec. So, sure, it's a Canadian food, but it's not, you know, it's a big, big country with, you know, lots of different regions and different kinds of people.
51:55I would say on the two coasts, it's more seafood and fish. In the center, you know, in Toronto, as I said, we're very multicultural. There's all kinds of food. The one thing that's happening in Canada right now is a local movement. And especially, you know, with the threat of tariffs, everybody immediately started to look for ways to find Canadian sources for things. And we are quite seasonal, I would say. So, you know, as the spring starts and things come into the farmers markets, you're seeing fiddleheads and you're seeing rhubarb and you're seeing ramps are very big in my sort of little pocket of Toronto, you know, wild leeks you're seeing.
52:44And as the seasons go on and then in the winter, it's greenhouse things. And then, you know, a lot of a lot of soups and stews. And and then you can go higher end. You know, Matty Matheson lives in Toronto, for example. He's got a new place called Barclams. Yeah. Haven't been there yet. Yeah. What's it? What's Matty's? What's what's what's the take on Matty as a Toronto? Is he like he's known to be such a nice guy? Totally. He is known to be a super nice guy. My daughter came home with the story. She works in film production. He sent pizzas to the production. Somebody knew him. He's known to be a great guy.
53:21Yeah, I've heard that as well. That's great. Yeah. I just got back from Victoria, British Columbia. How was it? So, I mean, I was kind of blown away, frankly. Like, I love the seafood, what they're doing there, and some talented young chefs, and just the proximity to Seattle is like it's close to the States. So do you have any experience with the West Coast? I'd be curious, like, food-wise. Yeah. I mean, my in-laws live in Victoria, but I haven't been there for a little while, I have to admit. And they have like their pasta place that they like and their pizza place that they like. But spot prawns, if you go in the spring.
53:57I know we just missed it. It's probably like two or three or four weeks out. That was an amazing experience. My father-in-law took me to like a shack and we got them. I think they were still twitching. It was super, super, super cool. Yeah, that was great. And I think the first time I ate black cod was when I was in Vancouver. That was years ago. But truthfully, I haven't been out there for a little while. Well, there's a restaurant, Genevka. Haven't been there. Terrific. It's just a little outside Victoria. Talented young chef. There's great. Ox King Noodles is a Cantonese noodle shop. Oh, there's a fabulous, they call it a Chinese bistro in Vancouver.
54:40I'm going to have to think about the name oh it's fabulous it's really great Vancouver is also quite special I've got a lot of recent love for Canada it's on my mind right now it's a wonderful place with great people it's very spacious when you drive from place to place it's not like in the US where there's a million little towns there's just open space open space, open space It's cool about that. Yeah. What about your recipe writing? You know, you used to write a column. Are you writing recipes with regularity? I know you just, you know, put out this book. The book originally had recipes. In the first iteration, well, it wasn't quite an iteration because I didn't get that far.
55:22But in the first concept, it was going to be little food stories with a recipe. And that's why all the chapter names, they all were food. Each one was a food. So, you know, my rhubarb and my molasses and then as the narrative grew and the arc became more and more pronounced that and the chapters got shorter, which you notice because they were long and they got cut to make the narrative more propulsive. Some of those names had to change because there wasn't a food featured in every single one. So there's a whole whack of recipes in my mind that go with this book. I don't know what I'm going to do.
56:02You know, will it be another book? I don't know. Will it be on my sub stack? I haven't figured that out yet. And when I wrote recipes for the Globe and Mail, for example, my big thing was ingredients. And you can sort of see that in my – I really love to take a single ingredient and to riff and to play with it and find out where it came from. I used to, like, look for really obscure things like whelks. Yeah. I remember that I've discovered – Tinned whelks or fresh? Fresh. Yeah. I discovered fresh welks and I was so excited about that. We think of them as snails a little bit, I guess you could call them.
56:35But they're massive. They're big. Yeah, and they were weird. And that was kind of my thing. I'd find things that nobody had heard of. And you have a sub stack? Yeah. Oh, what's going on there? Are you writing? It's called Field and Pantry, but it's just my name. And it's a place, you know, I heard Emily Wilson. Is that who it's like? Yeah, yeah. I listened to that. Oh, great. And I so connected with what she was saying about how you could just put on there whatever you feel you need to say. Because working, you know, with an editor, I've been the editor, but working with an editor, you're working to please your editor, right?
57:13What does your editor want? What will your editor take? How can you get your story out there? But when you go onto your sub stack, it's so direct. And it's a thrill to conceive what you want to write, to write it. And I put recipes on there with every story I put up. That's amazing. Well, I'm going to link to your sub stack in the show notes. Awesome. For sure. Awesome. And the book is How to Share an Egg. So nice catching up with you. Thank you so much. It was such a pleasure. Loved it.
57:46This is Taste is hosted and produced by Eliza Abarbanal and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is edited by lead producer Clayton Gumbert and supervised by Pat Stango, director of media production and development at Penguin Random House. Thanks to Shalia Harris and the production team at Penguin Random House. Theme music by Steve Rydell. logo and guest illustrations by ellie skerzat visit taste online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter to keep updated on all cool things in the world of taste
From the publisher
Tyler Zielinski is a London-based drinks professional. He’s best known for his work in drinks journalism, writing about bars, cocktails, and other subjects for an array of publications including Punch, Eater, and Food & Wine. In this episode, we talk about his very cool debut book, Tiny Cocktails. What makes a tiny cocktail exactly? Tyler will explain. We also dig into where Tyler likes to drink in his hometown of London and what makes an extraordinary cocktail experience.
Also on the show, we have a great conversation with Bonny Reichert. Bonny is a journalist and author of an incredible memoir, How to Share an Egg: A True Story of Hunger, Love, and Plenty.
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