568: Food Writers Talking About Food Writing with Eric Kim & Matt Rodbard

5 Apr 2025 · 1 h 5 min

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Podcast Notes: This Is TASTE - Episode 568

Episode Overview

  • Title: Food Writers Talking About Food Writing with Eric Kim & Matt Rodbard
  • Hosts: Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard
  • Guest: Eric Kim, New York Times writer and food columnist
  • Format: Video podcast series showcasing discussions on recent food writing trends and personal insights from the food writing industry.
  • Release: Available on TASTE's YouTube channel and as a podcast.

Key Themes

  1. Introduction to the New Series
  2. Launch of a video podcast series focusing on discussions about food writing.
  3. The intention behind moving to video was to create a more engaging format compared to traditional audio podcasts.
  1. Guest Introduction: Eric Kim
  2. Eric shares insights from his media diet, favorite food stories, and discusses the evolving role of food writing.
  3. Notable anecdotes about dining experiences and memorable meals.
  1. Recent Restaurant Experiences
  2. Eric Kim's Pick: A birthday meal at Ulali, featuring exceptional French-style dishes and a memorable dinner roll.
  3. Matt Rodbard’s Recommendation: Wayward Fair, highlighting the creativity and technical cooking of chef Akhtar Nawab, specifically a spicy chicory salad.
  1. Reflections on Food Writing
  2. Discussion about how food writing reflects personal experiences and cultural backgrounds.
  3. Importance of understanding the history of New York restaurants and their evolution over time.
  1. Highlighted Articles
  2. Steak Fries: Reviled or Underappreciated: Exploration of steak fries' cultural significance and resurgence in modern dining experiences.
  3. What Can’t Jerk Do?: A deep dive into the nuances and evolution of jerk seasoning beyond traditional applications, emphasizing its cultural significance.
  1. Media and Cultural Commentary
  2. Dialogue around the changing landscape of food media and the challenges of getting readers to engage with written content versus video.
  3. The impact of social media on food writing and the necessity for expertise amidst a deluge of content.
  1. Future Aspirations and Ideas for Stories
  2. Eric discusses potential long-form story ideas, including exploring local cuisines across the U.S. and the cultural significance of Taco Bell.
  3. Encouragement of a more profound exploration of American cuisine through diverse regional narratives.

Key Takeaways

  • Personal Connection to Food: Eric emphasizes the bond between food and personal history, illustrating it through his experiences with his partner’s family.
  • Cultural Nuance: Both hosts stress the importance of understanding cultural contexts in food writing, as cuisines evolve and intermingle across borders.
  • Evolving Landscape of Food Media: Discussions reflect a critical view of current trends in social media and the importance of maintaining high standards in food journalism.
  • Community and Relationships: The narrative underscores the significance of community, relationships, and shared dining experiences in shaping culinary stories.

Conclusion The episode encapsulates the essence of food writing, highlighting its ability to connect personal narratives with broader cultural discussions. Eric Kim’s insights, along with the hosts’ reflections, offer a thoughtful examination of the food writing industry and its future directions.

Call to Action

  • Subscribe to TASTE’s YouTube channel for more insightful discussions on food and culture.
  • Check out the featured stories mentioned in the episode to deepen understanding of the discussed topics.

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Transcript

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0:00This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. Resi is a digital platform that connects restaurants to restaurant lovers by elevating dining experiences, providing original industry content, and helping to fill some of the country's most exciting dining rooms. Because restaurants have always been more than just places to eat. The amazing world of restaurants is just a few taps away in the Resi app and at resi.com.

0:31Eric Kim, welcome. Hey, thanks for having me. We're doing a fun thing right now. We're doing something new. We're live on YouTube. Or not live, but you know what I mean. We're on YouTube. Live to tape. Or you're listening to the podcast, but I have the link to our YouTube page. You should subscribe. We'll be doing this with some frequency. I hope you come back. Yeah, I'd love to. It's called Food Writers Talking About Food Writing. Nice. It's, you know, I wanted to do something a little different for our YouTube. I didn't want to just do like live episodes of our podcast because, listen, that's an intimate—we turned the lights down.

1:06Yeah, we did. In the podcast. We don't really like to think about visuals with the podcast. It's an audio format, but this is not. Yeah, getting ready this morning, I was like popping a zit and I was like, you know, there's no video today. And then I realized, oh, there is video. There's video today. Do you like being on video at the times? I do. I think I don't think about it that much because the team is so good. I just go and do the thing and it happens. They record it. I think I'm pretty lax about it, maybe. That's why you're good. Video is normal for me. I mean, that's why you're good because you just keep it like yourself.

1:43I think if I paid attention to it, I would just absolutely crumble. So I try to ignore it. Yeah. Well, the concept of this show is food writers talking about food writing. And I just wanted to go over on this episode, you know, some of our favorite stories from the week, some thoughts about food writing, some thoughts about eating. And let's start there. As we ask on the show, typically, where have you been going out recently? What's a memorable restaurant meal that you had? It was my partner's birthday recently. So our birthday meal for both of us is a place called Ulali. And it's the chef Chip Smith.

2:21He cooks incredible French-style food that has a little bit of his Carolina tinge. And then the front of house is Tina, and they're their partners. And it's just such a beautiful dance. There are only, like, 13 tables in the dining room. The other time we went, Steve Martin was sitting behind me. It's like you have the table for the night. And I loved the dinner roll so much. They just give you, in a very quiet way, they bring you a little one dinner roll at the start of the meal and it's the most perfect dinner roll it's like crusty on the outside it's kind of like a sourdough sorry it's not like a sourdough it's kind of like a baguette okay so it's and then I learned how to make it from him because I I just wanted to know the process and it's this lovely bread that he starts at 10 a.m and then by the time it's dinner service at five he you know he bakes them off it's risen three times it's just such a special you know roll and I mean I'm not going to talk about the rest of the food because it would take forever.

3:17But this dinner roll is so good. And it just shows you the kind of attention that this chef puts on everything. And so it's so special that that's our birthday meal. I always try to tell people about that place. It's kind of like a take your dad type of restaurant. You know, it's a little pricey, but it's incredible. My restaurant pick, and I'll get mine, is a similar take your mom or dad vibe. Steve Martin's story, I have a friend who once spilled entire glass of red wine on Steve Martin at a wedding. Whoa. At a wedding. What did Steve Martin do? I recall from the story that he took it in stride.

3:55Wow, good. I mean, she was young at the time. I think she was maybe in middle school or high school. Or wait, she's drinking wine. So she was definitely a little bit older than middle school. Yeah, yeah, yeah. But I think she said he was graceful. Nice. But like at a wedding. That's good to know. Yeah, at a wedding. Red wine wedding. It's not a great one. My restaurant is also, as I said, like kind of the, it's the vibe of you can take your parents there. It's not getting as much press as I'd like to see because I had such an outstanding meal. It's called Wayward Fair, and it's from Akhtar Nawab.

4:27Have you been to this place? No, I haven't. No, no. It's really, really good. Akhtar, a legend in the game, you know, going back to the early 2000s, even the 90s, I think he worked at Kraft. Yeah. Under, you know, obviously Tom Colicchio, but that's when David Chang was there. and there was like a real crew of chefs working at Kraft. And, you know, Akhtar was later at EU in the East Village and a couple other restaurants. He worked at La Skina for, I think, a decade plus. What I like about Wayward Fair is, you know, the idea is that it's following the spice route. So he's cooking with like spice and, you know, flavors in mind that are of the, you know, Middle East into the Mediterranean.

5:07And, you know, it's not high concept. You know, some of these restaurants that open become like it's all about the concept. His is like kind of in the background. And what he's really doing, it's all shared plates. All the plates are perfectly proportioned for sharing, which I love. You know, you can feel sometimes when they're like forcing shared plates on you on like on plates that don't make sense. The server was like assertive that you need to order six. And like I like that. And what he's doing is he's doing really technical cooking. steak, chicken, whole fish, fish filet, all those proteins.

5:42We tried three of them. They were perfectly cooked. Like really, really great technique. A lot of it coming out of the wood fire. Yeah. And what my highlight dish was from this restaurant, Weaward Fair, was this spicy chicory salad. To have a green salad with a dressing that actually has kick and spice to it, not just acidity and like an oil or something, you know, within that fat realm. Really remarkable to be able to do a spicy salad. I think it can be very challenging. That's cool. I love when a salad is the star. Also, isn't it always the case that a wood fire grill or a wood fire oven is usually the result?

6:16Like the result of that is an excellent restaurant. I don't know. There's something that high heat that you can't get otherwise. I think so. I think it's like so technically challenging to do proteins in an oven. I mean, of course, if you have a Neapolitan pizzeria. Right. You know, you've done like one or ten. On your thousandth, it's probably the same. Of course, getting the heat to the right temperature is important. But to do proteins, it's really the sign of an excellent chef. I love that we're talking about restaurants because I feel like whenever I talk to you, you have a real sense of the history of New York.

6:48I'm old, buddy. I'm a little older. But you really, what is it like to have this genealogy in your head? Because I know that I like find out the genealogy or the history of a place, you know, in the books. But I feel like you're often like speaking from experience. What's it like having that kind of like New York, you know, literacy? Thanks for being really smooth with my age in New York. I mean, I moved here in 2000. And so I think I've had like 25 years of experience in New York. And I think I've been writing about food for 15 years. So I've been able to go to many different restaurants and keep these relationships going.

7:31I lived in the East Village at the beginning. So I was in the East Village from 2002 to 2005, which I think was a really exciting time. And I think like I got a sense of that style of East Village dining and like restaurants that like Bauer 111, for example, was like right down the street from me, which is like a pioneering Vietnamese restaurant. And I got to go there. I'm going to Kate's, you know, Kate's Joint back when it was like, you know, I bring it up a lot on the show because I just love that memory of Kate's. and then like moving to Brooklyn in 05 offered a really cool opportunity to move to Carroll Gardens when you know Frankie's was there they moved there in 02 they opened in 02 but like it's a neighborhood that didn't have a lot of restaurants and Humble Hill had very few as well it was mostly Park Slope and then North Brooklyn was really just starting I think you know Andrew Tarlow was opening restaurants in 2000 with Diner but like I was able to see New York restaurants explode and the interest in them explode so i think in talking to guests a lot on the show we we go back into time and i like to try to talk about this era before restaurants were social capital yeah yeah you know i feel like i'm hitting a point in my life where i've been in new york for 16 years now and but i kind of came here for college and so i didn't have money to go to these kinds of restaurants but now that i have you know worked in the industry a little bit and have written about food and have reported in kitchens it's it's a real pleasure to feel like you have some kind of relationship to the city i feel i know people say it's 10 years but i i think now i can walk by a restaurant and know the 10-year story of that place and that feels really good oh sorry is that okay hey we're rolling with it here on youtube yeah that's how we're doing it um where i was i was i was walking by Devel recently and that place used to be open for dinner and that's where I met Priya Krishna for the first time.

9:28I met with her when Indianish was coming out. It was like the beginning of all of our careers and they served a really delicious spaghetti napoletan and it's kind of like this like ketchup-y you know spaghetti and it's been 10 years since I had that and this week I went into the kitchen with the original person who kind of put that on the menu she she um she she made it for me and i watched her make it learned how to make it and when i took a bite i realized that she was probably the one in the kitchen who made that plate for me and priya that's cool and it made me like really emotional because i was like wow we didn't know this but i have a connection to you like you you made my favorite spaghetti napolitan in the world and and i'm gonna i'm writing about it for for like june this year but it's um i love that thing i love that about new New York, people stay.

10:17Yeah. People stay if they like it or not, to be honest. Like some of these restaurants remain because it's just the, it's their source of income and it has to remain. And I like the 10-year reminder, you know, when a restaurant hits 10. It's like such a remarkable thing. I just had Enrique Alvara in, we'll have an episode up in a couple weeks, and Kosame just turned 10. Oh, wow. Oh, my God. Yeah. Isn't that crazy to think? I remember when that opened. Remember when it opened? And before, I mean, Nixmalization. Right. We now write about a very, you know, it's common lexicon in many ways. A very important technique for making masa into, you know, tamales and tortillas.

10:56I remember when him and Daniela were opening Cosime, they were talking about their heritage corn. Yeah. And that they were, you know, flying in or trucking in from Mexico and this idea of nix malzation. I had no idea. I had never heard that term a decade ago. Yeah, yeah, yeah, of course. And so now they're 10 years later, we have this perception of nixtamalization as being table steak, so to speak, for a good modern Mexican restaurant in New York. I remember watching Daniela give a talk at MoFat and watching her take a tortilla and dip it in like lime juice. It was really simple. And that kind of – that was really an influential moment for me every time I ate a quesadilla, just something really simple.

11:36I think of that moment. She was talking about simplicity in cooking. That's something that I didn't appreciate until later in life. Well, I love how restaurants really inform your writing and you bring them back to the home cook and through your column and through your work at the Times food desk. Let's talk about some writing. I think that's part of the show is to go over some stories that we've enjoyed. So I pulled out a few. We'll talk about one of the pieces you've written recently. But this week, the New York Times, your buddies over there, published a story about steak fries. Steak fries, deservedly reviled or underappreciated edible spoons.

12:14Great headline. Really funny. I mean, the idea is that steak fries only are about 2 % of the fry business. They quoted Neil Doherty at Cisco and said, you know, he's basically like in the 70s and 80s. Steak fries were everywhere and now they're kind of dead. I loved how, you know, David Siegel profiles this kitchen, Park Avenue Kitchen. They're doing a steak fry with camembert, grated Parmesan, charged shishito peppers, parsley, chili oil, bacon cured with maple syrup. And, you know, to top it off, one of the great quotes, and those are slices of preserved lemons. He's pointing at the preserved lemons in the scene.

12:56He's adding a little acidity to it. Steak fries are not the steak fries of the ground round. R.I.P. Did you ever go to ground round? No, no. You know, you pay what you weigh. Oh, really? You pay what you weigh. They have popcorn, little helmet sundaes. Oh, yeah. Yeah, you're like. I'm more of a juniors guy. I was, I did ask Alan Rosen why they served steak fries before this. And he just said, because they're for potato people. I guess that's sort of a, you know, it's an old fashioned thing. I like how the reporter went into, you know, Cisco and all that data. Because it's, that's what I love most about food culture sometimes.

13:30The reason we eat the things we eat, they're actually really like arbitrary or just like business answers. Yes. Or it's just something to do with how people are producing. My kind of thing with steak fries is I'm a huge fry aficionado, I would say. I'm really picky about them. And steak fries, I do enjoy them. But I think the best version I had was just on a random Friday. I was walking to Carroll Gardens and there was a Greek diner I wanted to sit at. And I got the fries that had, you know, it was all this crumbled feta on top, oregano. like lemon and it was you could squeeze the lemon on top but it was it was the perfect creamy salty and and i think that and reading the story about those loaded steak fries made me think about how steak fries are should be more considered like potatoes maybe just like yeah i mean obviously fries are potatoes but you know i don't know steak fry feels like the wrong i think when you think of them more as like a vehicle for i guess that's what he wrote i think he also said like it was for generation where potatoes were part of the meal the meal and yeah i don't know if you remember the 90s you know suzanne powder stopped the insanity had this big you know anti you know this like potato moment where uh she was like saying you could eat like 75 baked potatoes um and it's the same fat as like a slice of cheese that was when basically uh zero fat was at its highest peak and so like she was like you can eat all the potatoes you want because there's no fat Yeah.

15:02Interesting science there. I'm sure it was not it was not proven to be that successful in weight loss. But I think it was tapping into a time when potatoes were were consumed in diet food rigor. Yeah. Yeah. Spa food. Potatoes is spa food. This reminds me of sorry, this is kind of a tangent. But I'm doing a bunch of Craig Claiborne research right now for a column about Chicken Alley King. And he he sort of when you read his biography towards the end, he's kind of getting into low salt, maybe no salt, low fat food. And he's this man who's writing for the public about food culture. I kind of sometimes wonder if that's the connection.

15:37You know, 80s, 90s, like once the health food kind of trend really, you know, had that heyday, was it a remnant of, you know, this man who's telling America how to eat for half a decade or half a century? It's, I wonder. Yeah, the tracing the Craig Claiborne effect for that diet. Craig Claiborne effect. Because I don't know about you, but reading, I think when I read about food history, that's usually my angle into the reporting as well. One thing I always realize is that the world is so small and media kind of reaches so many people. And it reaches very specific people who are the ones who influence the way the rest of the people eat.

16:19And I guess that's why we have like influencers in that word now. Tip of the spear. Yeah. Yeah, and so I don't know. This steak fry story makes me wonder. I wonder if this is going to move the needle or make people remember steak fries and want to serve them more. It definitely shifts markets, at least like a potato market, some would say. Okay, back to what you said about Carol Gardens. Were you at Avli? It was on Court Street. In like first place, second place? Maybe, I think so. So I used to live, that was like literally my block. Those fries, I know exactly what you were talking about. They're the steak fries.

16:53Yeah, they're good. They're really good. I'm sure they're a good plane. You know, I'm not really a poutine guy, but I like a loaded. I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed the loaded, dry toppings vibe. Yeah, it's a great one. Next story. It's a story we published on Taste this week by Annie Hiesel, my former colleague and former host of our podcast. What can't jerk do? And, you know, Anna writes, quote, in the last year or so, I've seen jerk transform from a grilling technique that permeates meat with smoke, allspice, and scotch bonnet pepper into a fluid descriptor that's been applied to dumplings, rum, cocktails, ice cream, and even fast food quesadillas.

17:33She gives a little bit of history about jerk and how the Maroons in Jamaica had taken inspiration from the Taino people, the Spanish people who were indigenous there. And really, they were using jerk as a preservative, but it was always smoked underground. So it's like a smoking and preserving technique. She interviews a chef, London Chase, from Mango Grill. Gotta go there. I'm like, when I was editing this copy, I was like, London Chase has got some skills. He's doing jerk, you know, an octopus, a grilled octopus with a jerk rub and a jerk gremolata and a jerk aioli over a burger. So he's thinking about jerk in a lot of different ways.

18:13And finally, Paul Carmichael from Kabawa, we have had him on the show, talks a little bit about the frustration with Jerk really making Caribbean food, placing it into a box. And I think so. I think he's thinking about, you know, Jerk shouldn't define Caribbean food while there are Caribbean chefs, you know, offering their interpretations of Jerk as a way to show innovation. So there's a little bit of tension there between the chef community around this topic. And I think Anna did a really nice job of splitting the difference. And I think the biggest misperception about jerk that came through in this piece is that it is not just jerk chicken.

18:58It's not just jerk chicken. Jerk is not just chicken, you know. Perpetual tension between the tradition and honoring that and then extending it or updating it so that it can survive. Yeah. I think that's really interesting. Well, I have to say first that it was great to see Anna's byline and to see the date it was published this week. Yeah. Yeah, that was awesome. And I really remember, I miss her voice on the podcast. Yeah. Hey, Anna. Shouts to Anna. Yeah. We love her. I mean, the whole piece really made me think about how a soundbite, culinarily, and in my case, I've seen, I've really studied Kuchujang, of course.

19:35Yeah. and seeing its possibilities and seeing the way it can almost like carry a culture or like introduce people to a cuisine and then get them to research more and to care about it. But so that tension is hard. And I totally understand. I think the thing I really enjoyed about the piece was that she ended on the opposite of what food writing pieces usually end on. Usually in a food writing piece, you know, in this, you know, in these days, you sort of talk about the origin and the authenticity and then the tension comes. But then at the end, it's usually fanning out to there are many ways to be Korean or Caribbean.

20:17There are many ways to do jerk and they're all valid. And that's usually like the final note. But I like that how she ended on the chef's comment about if he says basically he says, right. If it doesn't taste, if a grandmother can taste it and can't say that it tastes like her mother's cooking, then it's maybe we've gone too far from the origin. I just butchered that. But I think that ending on that really made me think. I mean, I'm not Caribbean myself, but it made me think about that side of the conversation, which is there are benefits to preserving. And I've seen people, you know, doing it for their cuisines right now.

21:00And you see these waves that happen with culture. Like the Chinese-American culinary conversation is a little different than the Korean one because their timelines are different. I love that you talk about the walk-off quote or the walk-off line and how I agree. A lot of writing, it's a little both sidesy. It's like a little bit of like a bow. And I think we fight that here when we're editing, when Eliza and I are editing our features every week. We're food writers talking about food writing here. Let's get into it. How nerdy this is. Before we record, I was like, we're not going to get into nut graph and story structure on this show.

21:36It'll be really boring. But because you brought off the walk-off, and I'm using that as the term we use for the final quote or the kicker. And honestly, good writing and good editors scrutinize the walk-off. because the hope is that if you get past a third of the reading, you're going to get to the end. Right, right. I actually never heard Walk Off. I call it a stinger always. Yeah. But it's because I write like that, and now I'm wondering if I should stop doing stingers. Wait, sorry. What I also wanted to say was just as I was reading her piece, I was thinking, gosh, this is so much work. How long did she have to do this reporting?

22:14Maybe she slowly did it over a year. When did you guys talk about this story? It's great. I love that stuff. Yeah, I think Anna came to us with the story idea sometime, I would say in January. Whoa. And I know she was heading down to Jamaica for a food festival, or maybe not Jamaica, but the Caribbean. And I think what I liked about her reporting for the piece is that she went to Kabawa with a cookbook author who was in town, the author of Kin. Right, right, right. And did some nice scene setting there and, you know, met Paul there and like had a little bit of a dynamic there. Took the scene down to the Caribbean, comes back to her home in Jamaica.

22:51Sorry, her home in the Jamaican neighborhood in Brooklyn that she lives in. And I just loved the way she reported it. I mean, Anna has written a few stories since she left Taste and she just has a terrific sense of structure. She's a terrific editor in that sense as well. And I really like that you called that out. Yeah, I like the maximalist source building and evidence building. Yeah. That's something that I really aspire to, but sometimes we don't always have time. It's about time, right? It's about time. Reporting stories and you have a deadline. I always like to try to build up a source list before I even start writing, and then you start getting on the phone, building up the case.

23:30Yeah. We really push our writers, and all of them really do the work as well. I think this is all this whole like concept of us talking about food writing is, I mean, we, I feel like we're in an era. I didn't think I'd go in this direction, actually. Well, we're going to go there. Let's do it. I just feel it's important to do a show and episodes of our podcast if you're listening to some audio about what we do on the page. We're not talking about social video. We're not talking about podcasts, even. We're talking about food writing. and I've been feeling a lot of, it's like, I've been feeling some ambivalence about text on the page.

24:08Because so much of it is lukewarm and mediocre. No, no, not at all. I actually think we have a spoil of riches. I mean, especially with Substack. Yeah, yeah, yeah. We've got incredible writing happening. Yeah. I just think that there's, when you look at the general audience for food writing, not just the 10 ,000 people who live in New York, LA, San Francisco, London, who are like really in the community and reading. Maybe it's even 5 ,000. But like looking at our wide audience and folks listening to the show may be part of that. I would hope you are, who are not just living in these cities, but are like enjoying what we're putting out there.

24:42We're putting a lot of work into this and it's hard to compete for attention. Yeah, it is. With words on the page. And we really put a lot of effort into these articles every week. Yeah, it's sort of, at my job, we do a video, a story and a recipe for everything. And sometimes I know that the thing that people really looked at was the video. And sometimes I'm like, oh, all the context is in the story and the heart is in the writing. And I really want people to read, but people don't read as much anymore. People listen to things maybe. But I have to say the reporting part is I'm always surprised at how it happens.

25:17I basically filed a column and I was done with it. But there's one last source I wanted to check. and I wasn't going to interview him, but I had the dish. It's chicken a la king. There's only like one or two restaurants in New York that still serve it. No way. Yeah, and I went to this place, Chechi's, and it was really good. And I was able to leave my information. He called me as I was walking out of the restaurant. He wasn't there at the time. Anyway, the owner kind of, we had this 10-minute conversation, but it was the perfect thing that my story was missing. And so like right after this, I'm going to go, you know, type it up and try to like incorporate it because I think the more, the more sources you have, the more evidence you have, just the more you're able to build out the truth of that, that piece.

26:08And it's, it's like the feeling of you want to give it your all. You want to, you want to give it every, every vantage point you can, at least the relevant ones. And I think that's something that I, I don't know, I think is so important in reporting and I hope people will continue to value that. I want to take a little break from the stories and talk about a social media moment this week that was pretty amazing. I know we're talking about food writing, but it's related. Ah, our friend Eli Sussman, my friend, I think you know him as well, did an April Fool's joke that I think was pretty well played, my friend.

26:44he had with visual evidence that he was named as the New York Times restaurant critic and it was a real honor to be the first chef named restaurant critic and he dropped that like strategically around 8 30 in the morning on April 1st before I think some people you know obviously wake up and check the gram right away maybe before their coffee and you're seeing the headline you're not realizing what date it is and a lot of people thought it was real you jumped into the comments which is amazing because you helped corroborate this whole thing you didn't like say you like did enough to sell it and Melissa was in there, Clark.

27:16What the hell, man? What went on at the New York Times that morning when he was saying he's the new critic? Nothing, just that we all thought it was hilarious. We really enjoyed it. I think, I love that because he also took, he took my photo, I had a photo of myself in the office holding out a sign for this, like, whatever. And he photoshopped it and put himself in. And the Photoshop job is so good that like it took me I had to like compare the pictures um I thought that was hilarious but um I think um I like the way he adds humor to to everything he does into the industry because I think sometimes we we all take ourselves way too seriously I mean a lot like maybe 90 % of the time just way too seriously and I think um having having that humor is important because I don't know just bringing it a little down is it's good for everyone and I I love his I think that stuff is hilarious.

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28:11I enjoy all the jokes. I enjoy the jokes. This one was super well played. A couple people wrote me and said, oh my God, can you imagine? I actually did not respond because it was such a funny when he sold it really well. And then, of course, he went on social the next day and said that he was fired or resigning and did it in such a well played way. I love the suspense. Yeah, I think my thing is I like when people poke fun at social media. and just like make fun of it. And because we're all living in this phone all the time and so much of food media was our activity on Instagram, I feel like. And I'm only just now like preening off it and just realizing how toxic that's been.

28:52And I like that he is taking the form and taking people's attention, but using it to like make fun of it a little. I think that's really important. I just dismantle Instagram. Sorry, I shouldn't say that. Yeah, I have a very complicated relationship with my phone because I feel like it's part of the job to be on top of what's happening if I just ignored social media I don't think I'd be doing my job for the podcast or for the for taste in general but on the flip side that shit is toxic and I don't really care about most of it yeah be honest and just connecting it to our discussion about like why people should read still yeah you know media literacy is just at an all-time low social media kind of has made I mean that's what he's sort of making fun of I think Eli I mean, he's making fun of the fact that people can't, they don't have the literacy to see that post and recognize that, oh, that font is a little off.

29:42Like, that's not a real headline. But it was kind of a good headline. It was a really good headline. His fonts were pretty close. I'm surprised you couldn't match the fonts, but it's got to be some time secret. They like, you know, you can't match the fonts. I don't know. But he really pulled a good one. And I think he's like memes as well. Yeah. You know, poking at the hypocrisy of celebrity culture around food. Yeah. Also, he gives deep commentary into the industry, what it's like to be a working chef. And he does a lot of great memes about cost of goods and the stresses that chefs have about certain holidays.

30:15Like he really has a wide industry following. Yeah, he does. He does. And, you know, I was at a bar that day and the bartender was like, that's crazy, right? You guys got a new food critic. And I was like, oh, no, that was a joke. That is amazing. So I'm just saying like he did a good job. I think it also gave him a lot of exposure, which is good because he has a book coming out soon, right? And we're talking about it now. I don't know. Like, I think he might be working on something. Yeah. I think that there's a project in the works. Yeah. I think we can announce that in the future at some point.

30:47And it'll be exciting to see Eli's actual, you know, writing in that way. I want to move on to another story from the week. It's one by you. Oh. I really enjoyed it. I think I texted you right away. And I loved, speaking of reading, I actually, the first time I saw it and knew about it was in my print copy of the New York Times magazine. I love that. Yeah. I think he texted me on a Sunday. I read it on a Sunday. That was really sweet. I do not go first for the magazine. I go first for, I mean, what do I go, what do you go first for? And do you know the reference? That old New York Times magazine, New York Times subscriber commercial.

31:27No, I don't know what you're talking about, actually. Oh, God. this reference is so okay let me let me back now for a second yeah let me back up for and sam was in sifton he got the reference obviously because he was like clearly probably involved in writing it so it was a famous commercial probably ran in the early 2000s where it was like extremely white people uh you know like talking about their uh their sunday and and really they were talking about where they go first. I go first for the magazine. I go for travel and leisure. I go for arts and leisure. Wow. And really, and that was my reference.

32:05That is that story. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I'm just like right now shocked that there was even a TV ad for something like that. That's interesting. Yeah, the New York Times used to have TV ads when like being a print subscriber was like the main revenue generator for them and they were like fighting over, I go for arts and leisure. It was like amazing. We're going here. My favorite New York Times magazine reference is from King of the Hill. I think Bobby Hill is reading it and his dad walks in and is like, what are you reading? He's like, the New York Times magazine. And he snatches it because there's this whole tension between the dad wanting his son to be more, quote unquote, masculine.

32:39I think that's hilarious. Oh, that's a funny bit. I like that. It's a joke. So in the magazine, you wrote Lessons from Germany on a Better Bratwurst. It's part of your monthly column in the magazine. I love this piece. It's such a classic Eric Kim, I'm referring to the third person because I like to do that, style of writing because you're doing a lot of your own story and your kind of connection to the subjects, which was very deep to you because it was your fiance's family. But also getting some great cultural context and reporting and then a great recipe at the end. Makes a great column. You're doing 100, 800 words.

33:12Thanks. Tell me a little bit about it. You made this trip to Jachim, Germany. I definitely mispronounced that. Sorry, Bavarian friends. And why were you in Germany? Oh, I was in Germany because to meet my partner's family. You know, I had just proposed, and it was my first time in Germany. He wanted to introduce me to all of his relatives and all the family friends. And so it was kind of a meet-the-family situation. And also my first trip with his parents and his brother. Oh, fun. It was a real, like, initiation into the family. So it was, what's funny about that story is the trip was sometime last, it was in the summer of last year.

33:54So I've been sort of gestating it for a very long time. And I think, or I don't know if like a few months is a long time for people, but as a digital baby, I feel like that's a long time. That trip, what was really kind of profound for me was staying at his great aunt's house. And that house, I feel like I'm trying not to get too emotional about it. But I had this profound experience with this woman that I was meeting for the first time. But this thing that we have in common is my fiance. And her hospitality, her love, the way she cooked in her kitchen. It was a Frankfurt kitchen. And we were about to move homes.

34:40And I think I had this week of peace in that house. It was this beautiful wooden house that just really moves and breathes with the nature of the land. And that's these German sensibilities that I really noticed and wanted to apply to my own life when I came home to New York, which was a messy life in a sky rise. And I was really depressed. And I think I wanted to get that across, but I also just wanted to say thanks to her. And I think we have this language barrier, but I tried to say it with my eyes, but it wasn't enough. And so I was holding on to these words for a very long time, and it felt good to finally write it.

35:22And she got a copy, and she was proud that Bratwurst had—she described it as Bratwurst finally making it to America. I think it's been in America. But what was really interesting about the story, though, was kind of getting to really almost academically sort of understand my partner's culture better. And it helped me to really understand him, like all his quirks. You know, I think they're just they come from a cultural place. Yeah. A lot of them. This is in Bavaria, correct? Yeah. He lives in or he's from the Svalds, like Flannery region. Now, I love the little moment in the piece where you talk about finally having understanding about how he eats so much bread.

36:03Yeah, yeah, yeah. And you kind of like let it hang a bit, which I love about that part of the article, when you don't give it all away. Yeah. Which I love that, when you just don't give it all away. What did you realize, or soon you realized that there was a big bread culture there? Yeah, I think it was, well, the second we got there, jet lagged. And his great aunt, Margit, she made us this huge breakfast. And it was a huge breakfast spread every morning. And then as I started learning about how she put it together and why she put it together, what I realized was that she wanted to show me German bread.

36:41And she was going to a different bakery every morning, biking there, getting fresh rolls. And so every morning there was a different type of roll. And so I was eating a lot of bread. I noticed because my stomach was like this is a lot of gluten and I need some rice But once I got past that I started to understand that the way the way he eats I understood what the way he eats better because you know Paolo wakes up every morning has so much bread and butter Just like has to me. It's like a lot of bread and butter. He doesn't necessarily have an egg He doesn't have maybe he'll have fruit sometimes But I think the way what I learned from my trip and my time in that beautiful house was that Germans kind of spread out their diet throughout the day.

37:25So, you know, in the morning, it's going to be like more of a continental breakfast bread and cheeses and fruits. And then it's heavy, but it's heavy on not heavy necessarily on the protein. And then for lunch, that's when you have the big bratwurst meal. I mean, that's basically I was just so touched by the recipe was a bratwurst with mashed potatoes. And she made it for us and she kind of took the bratwurst out of the freezer. And in 30 minutes, we had dinner and watching her work in that kitchen sort of whip up the potatoes and then hand that plate in front of like put that plate down in front of me.

38:00It was there was a divot in the potatoes and the bratwurst fat was still sizzling in that divot. And I just felt so taken care of. And it was so delicious. It was such a good, it was a good meal. The bratwurst is really rich, but the potatoes were seasoned really gently so that the balance was there. Even though if you look at the plate, it seems like really rich, but the balance is there. And so when I started cooking that at home to try to replicate that, you know, that recipe, I sort of started to understand the German palate, the German, you know, cuisine. And then, you know, I got to talk to Louisa Weiss and got to talk to more people.

38:36And for dinner, you eat something light. it's kind of like you don't really eat dinner when she was on the podcast we talked about uh the way that the sweets kind of roll in at dinner time it's like a sweeter dinner potentially yeah uh back to the the bratwurst you have a potato and you have a bratwurst is that it is that kind of the plate that that is the plate but i think it's the orchestra of the recipe yeah i think when people first some people who like see a simple recipe like they're a simple a familiar plate of sausages and mashed potatoes they're like why is there a recipe for this but you can make it in 30 minutes that's the thing it's like I don't know I figured out a way to have the potatoes boiling I quarter them so that you know you don't have to peel them but you can like slip off the peels once the potatoes are done boiling yeah and then you don't season them that much it's it's it's it's really potatoey and a potato forward and it's the trick it's the same trick I learned from you know Nick and or which is you you can mash the potato as much as you want before you add the liquid and once you have the liquid you fold it in and And that's sort of this secret, I think, that carries through all mashed potatoes.

39:42And then the bratwurst is really the thing. You know, when I'm developing that recipe, I'm working with American products. And what that means is we don't really have access to fresh bratwurst, you know, maybe Italian sausage, sweet Italian, whatever. But there are purveyors of fully cooked bratwurst, you know. And I think my goal, I developed this recipe between my time in Atlanta over the holidays and New York. But the goal is to take that deli meat, you know, section product, bratwurst, that's fully cooked and kind of like give life to it again. And the one way that I found was really lovely was kind of simmering it first in a little water and butter.

40:23But also piercing it because once you pierce the bratwurst, it really lets out its fat. And then, you know, you cover the pan and then you remove the pan. And what happens then is the bratwurst has been, you know, kind of like fluffed up again, kind of like it has more moisture on the inside. But also the fat has rendered into the water and then the water evaporates and then it sizzles in its own fat. And I think that I like when what you end up with is a bratwurst that tastes really of the bratwurst because really that product is special. It's great meat. It's really good, really lovely spices.

40:57Right. That's what makes bratwurst special, I think. And I don't know. I hope people can appreciate that I'm trying to help people take really ordinary ingredients from the store. And just also show them that if you look hard enough, there is probably a bratwurst at your store. There might be one brand of it, but you should try it. And then doing this method will bring it to life and make it feel like you're having a fresh bratwurst dinner. Love that sentiment. When you were there on the trip, were you thinking story? Were you thinking that this would be something to write about? And when you were in Germany in general, as a reporter on the road, but you're on holiday, you're visiting family.

41:32How do you think about your writing when you're spending more of a leisure time? It's really hard not to think in story. I'm always, you know, I come back from, yeah, you go and travel, you're supposed to rest and not think about work. But then I can't help it. And I come back and I'm really excited to talk to Genevieve about all the delicious things I ate. And frankly, I got a lot of stories out of that trip because what I really loved eating, you know, in that area of Germany was the German interpretation of other cuisines. You know, that's fun. I mean, in Margit's home, I had the German food, but I think, you know, the German take on Italian pasta or Italian pizza is really interesting.

42:12It's really specific. I was really in love actually with Greek immigrants in Germany cooking their food. And that food is catering towards the Germans. And so that specific, I had a really amazing tzatziki. It was so special. It was fluffy. It was really strained. It was really... Because they're using like German dairy in that tzatziki. So it's like probably a little different front than like official Greek. which is really amazing and different than, of course, in America, which is a totally different dairy culture. And I like bringing out those nuances in my writing and my reporting because that's sort of my mantra.

42:54I wonder one day if it's not going to be the mantra anymore. But with food writing, I like to show people these kinds of nuances in culture because I feel like so much of media is about just getting it down at all, like getting it down the original or the traditional or the authentic. And but I think right now our generation is writing about how that doesn't exist. And it hasn't existed for a while. Like you you have immigrants moving about the world and cuisine is just so so fluid. And the way the way it forms is is what's interesting. And that's the story to me. Love it. Well, I want to do this segment on our show.

43:31Food writers talking about food writing. Hit that subscribe if you're on YouTube. We're going to come back every couple of weeks. Smash that like button. Oh, we're going to go do that. We're going to do special like. I mean, there are comments below here, so you can definitely comment. Is there like a story of Eric's that you love? Is there something that we said that offended you? There's something in my brain that's like when I see the camera and it clicks, automatically I have this spiel that's like, if you want this recipe and many more, go to NYTCooking.com. Go to NYTCooking.com. I'm going to point right at that.

43:59No, I'm doing your lines. But we're going to do this segment. I'm absolutely enchanted with the Graydon Carter memoir. and we have three things coming up where I talk at length about a review of it. But Graydon Carter, famously the editor-in-chief of Vanity Fair for over 25 years. We're going to frame this. The question is, what would you pitch 1997 Graydon Carter today? The idea is that in 1997 Graydon Carter was assigning stories out at$75 ,000 plus expenses paid. Report on it for a year, two years. Come back, tell us what you got. Do that, you know, do that, like repeat, repeat, repeat. That's why Vanity Fair was truly a one-of-one magazine.

44:40I just absolutely loved Vanity Fair. So I want to know, Eric, you got this budget. You got this time. You got Graydon Carter editing you, which I'm sure is a nice experience. What would that story be? Gosh, sorry. I just have to get over the fact that an advance could be that big for an article. This industry, I can't relate. I don't know what that's like. But lately, recently I went to Ohio for an academic conference, the Asian Studies Conference, and I had incredible Nigerian food in Columbus. And that family was doing really special cooking. cooking. And so I guess what I would love to do is really travel America and go to each state, go to the parts that aren't covered, and find out what people are actually cooking in these pockets of culture.

45:37Because to me, American cuisine, as an Americanist or American historian, I mean, I'm fascinated by the way it is now, but it really is going to take on the ground reporters to even tell that story. And, you know, when I was there, I was reading John Steinbeck, not to be like, you know, but that you're reading John Steinbeck. Yeah. He's kind of like the reason I got into writing at all or literary anything. But he, you know, Grapes of Wrath was a serial nonfiction assignment. It was for a paper nonfiction assignment. Sounds weird for that. But he was reporting on the Dust Bowl and and then he turned it into a novel.

46:15But all that reporting was because he was on, you know, he was he was with them and with the migrant workers who who are displaced by the banks. Anyway, I think for me, I would love to I like meeting people and being in their kitchens and talking to them. And, you know, I love a New York restaurant, but it's nice to it's nice to be outside of New York and to be in places like Ohio or. Yeah, I don't know. I love I just love the United States. It's fascinating. I like it academically, I should say. I think that would fit into Vanity Fair. My story, if I had a year and expenses paid, I would want to write the definitive Taco Bell story.

46:55Because I think I haven't read the New York Times, or was it New Yorker did a pretty good job. But New Yorker's 2025 is not working with Grading Carter in 97. I really am fascinated by this chain. I just heard recently that a boutique hot sauce company was approached by Taco Bell and they're going to be on the menu of Taco Bell. So, like, my thought is, like, I want to obviously go to the test kitchen in Southern California and see how innovation happens. But I really want to go around the country and see how Taco Bell is, you know, consumed in different markets. how people how taco bell plays into the relationship with food right um are these daily visits other like social groups that meet at taco bell so there's like a culinary story but like the zoom out is definitely more of a cultural story or a story that talks about economics yeah and i think the single chain it really touches a lot of america in unique ways yeah obviously it's like mexican cuisine in mexico and our relationship with mexico right now is at an all time fucked up, I would say, just to be frank and be blunt.

48:11I was talking to Enrique Alvarez about this recently in the studio, it'll be up later, but I just really think we need to talk more about our relationship with Mexico and Mexican Americans and people from Mexico who live here. And so there's like a whole, there's a lot to talk about with Taco Bell. So I think I would like to take that money and write that story. I love that. Meanwhile, my brain's going to, God, love those cheese fries. The fries are okay. I can't say I like them. Oh, really? I'm not in the cheese fry. I like the cantina menu a lot. Okay. The cantina menu speaks to me. You know, it's like a little more, it's like their version of the LA style.

48:51Yeah. They have like a green packet. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Of course, they've got like the soda fountain is always changing. Yeah. And PepsiCo just acquired Poppy. Yeah. Yeah. So, like, are we going to see Poppy at Taco Bell? What's interesting about Taco Bell is, like, it's been around for so long. I recently, when I was back home, my mom requested it. And I was really surprised. I was like, okay. So I got her a Chalupa. And I got my, you know, cheesy Cordita Crunch or whatever. Yeah, yeah. And we just sat at the kitchen island and ate it. And she was like, that was incredible. That was exactly what I wanted.

49:22And I think we were having some beers. And I just, I remember thinking, like, what is her story? You know, like, her relationship to Taco Bell is, you know, immigrating here in 1984. and probably eating that once in a while or buying it for us and having a taste. My mom likes sour cream a lot, and that's something that she knows every time she goes to a Mexican restaurant. Or a Mexican-American restaurant, I should say. It's interesting. It's a really rich topic to tap into. I love it. Or get in touch, Taco Bell. If you want to work on a collab, we can tell your stories. So that would be mine.

49:58I appreciate you. I wonder if Graydon would appreciate these ideas. I'm sure he would. I love that memoir. More to come about that. So we're going to end this episode. And thank you for sticking with us, listeners and viewers. And Eric, thank you for joining. Yeah, thanks for having me. For kicking this new style of show that we're putting out. I just love talking to journalists. I think we have a lot of amazing guests on the show who we get to interview in our studio. But I think my heart sings when I get to talk to a fellow writer about their work. and this we're going to continue doing on this show.

50:32But as we always end on our podcast, we have a taste check. So I want to do a media edition. So I'm going to say it as I always say it on this. We've got some brothers to certainly say, so to close this interview, here's a little rapid fire, fast and furious taste check, media edition. Eric Kim, are you ready? I am ready. And Clayton, our lead producer mentioned, it's a valid point. When I asked that question, we say rapid fire, fast and furious, but typically that shit can be slow. Like the answers can be long. I'll try to go fast. You don't have to. I think it's actually maybe a joke that I say rapid fire, fast and furious, or maybe that's just what is on my mind when I ask that last question.

51:17It gives them an urgency. Yeah, it's like we're trying to end it. And here's some guests are kind of like, you know, one word answers, and I'm cool with that. But anyways, this is the media version. What is the first thing you read in the morning and where do you read it? Unfortunately, it's my phone. Well, not unfortunately. It's voice notes from my friends. Now that there's transcripts, I sometimes read the first couple of sentences just so I know what I'm waking up to. And then I'll listen to it later. So you don't just go to the transcripts? You're actually listening to it too? I listen to it later.

51:50But in the morning, I will read the transcript to be like, what am I going to read today? Sort of my digest. What do you read on actual paper, if anything? I read a lot of books. I mean, I think when I'm trying to get the food history, I have a huge library. And I don't know. I think I tend to write about a period of time where it's not digital. So the only way to find out about Craig Claiborne somehow, in the real way, is to go to the books. And nonfiction, just novels, of course. I don't know. I always have a paperback in my bag. Like you aren't Kindle or. No, I'm really not. I don't know. As a recovering English literature PhD, you know, dropout.

52:33Yeah. Paperbacks. What was your favorite food publication growing up? Foodnetwork.com. Foodnetwork. Foodnetwork. Publication can be broadcasted. Foodnetwork.com. Yeah, I think it was foodnetwork.com. but I have to say I didn't know food media or food writing was a thing until I started working at the Food Network because I was on this other career path but when I was discovering it I really loved reading Mayuk Sen you know he was writing at Food52 at the time I loved reading him and John Birdsell wherever he was publishing and you know I'm not just saying this but I was reading Taste Cooking of course oh beautiful you didn't have to plug that Yeah, but taste has been around for a minute.

53:19How many people were really doing journalism and reporting about food in this nerdy way? Pretty nerdy. I love it. I love it. I got to catch up with John recently in Tucson. Nice. And he's got his queer food book coming out. What is queer food? It's great. It's awesome. Have you checked it out? I have. I have. We've been talking about Craig Claiborne. Oh, beautiful. Yeah. I can't wait to have John on the show. Great writer. We all have a relationship with PBS food programming, right? Like, we all do. And so was there a PBS show that you kind of enjoyed or leaned into as as a kid or even today? So this question, I think, maybe ages me because I grew up with on the Food Network, like 90s and later 90s.

54:05And I would say that in terms of PBS, though, Jacques Pepin and Julia Child, those are the those are the segments I watch now. just the growth of food television and cooking television has changed it's changed so much but I like watching those programs because they they remind me of what what it should be and could be it's kind of just it's about the cooking is whether food and and and it's something that I look to you whenever I freak out about messing up on live TV or something and someone always mentions truly child to me and yeah it's a it's just part of the process I think to mess up on on live camera definitely or maybe cut yourself yeah yeah yeah before my gochicato salmon video on the nmit cooking channel um i had i was scaling the fish because i and and i was stressed because it was one of my first shoots and and i kind of nicked myself a little and so we had to pause for you know 30 minutes and i was really self-conscious about that throughout the whole video but you don't see any of it because it's edited they edited out it's the beauty of the editor yeah yeah good yeah uh i think pbs i think everyone would have i mean for me I would say man I I watched a lot in the 80s I like I watched Jeffrey Smith which is problematic don't google that if you don't want to google that um I think the Cajun Chef probably as a kid as like a very young kid yeah I remember watching the Cajun Chef on PBS and just being enamored yeah first by his fit I mean what a what a fit like a blue shirt suspenders jeans and just the way his knife skills and his hand skills and the way he would demo Creole cooking, of course, in his amazing Cajun.

55:49I guarantee. Right. I loved that guy, and I thought that that really got me interested in food. In my reporting, I find that a lot of the young chefs now, their style of cooking comes from that origin story of watching PBS. Yes, I always think about that. And I like to tell the story of how my generation, we were raised on the Rachel Rays and the Emerald Lagasse's. And I was a huge Tyler Florence fan. That was my representation of being a young food media person as a man. Media is how you can track influence and how people. Rachel Ray, I've made that request to her PR since 2017. I'm making some headway.

56:36I had a conversation about a month ago. That'd be amazing. I would love to have her in the studio. We could have a very cool conversation. She was so lovely to me when I was on her show. I was so glad to be on that show before she stopped doing it. But she gifted me these garbage bowls. And I use them. I use them every day. And I think of her every time. And I brag about it every time. And I think they cut it out of the segment. But I kind of got a little teary-eyed. Yeah. She gifted you a garbage bowl. It was really nice. She was really supportive. She's really cool. I've met her a few times.

57:04and she reads the New York Times yeah she's really cool and an important figure and you know she's gonna get her Martha documentary moment at some point it's really special and I think that history will prove that she was very important for getting people to cook more when maybe cooking was inaccessible hey she's the one who taught me the steaming the bratwurst first and then letting it fry with the little yeah she's the one who taught me that I should just say that yeah rachel credit rachel ray next question tiktok instagram reels eric where are you at right now with with with this thing oh that we love that i love that i love not you i'm not speaking for you but it's it's a thing yeah okay i'll be honest i'm not on tiktok at all i i think i would explode or implode if i if i paid attention to one more media thing because I'm already too much on my phone.

57:58But on Instagram, one of my favorite pastimes to like rot my brain is just I zoom through the reels and my reels right now are a lot. It's a lot of just cute animations of small moments in like relationships or love. It's always like a cartoon, like two puppies, you know, it's like when my partner, you know, ignores me when I come home or like whatever. I'm not explaining it well, but for some reason I'm there in the algorithm and I'm okay with it because it makes me think of my partner and it like smooths my brain. And I really like animal videos. Sorry, that's probably not the answer. I don't know.

58:39Well, I mean, you gave me an example of what's on your feed and that's cool. I think I'm more getting at like as a culture. Oh. We're doing TikTok and Reels a lot and it leaks into food media, obviously. I see. Net positive, net negative. Are you indifferent? Oh, my God. I don't know. I think what I want to say is I hope we get to a place or get back to a place where expertise is recognized and valued. And what I mean, I'm not going to go too long because it's a rapid fire, but I think right now I'm just so fatigued by it personally. And I have trouble. I don't know. I think it's at once I was I was happy that it was democratized this this really gatekept industry.

59:25But I also think now there's just so much and it's hard to drown out some of the noise. And a lot of the people who are actually, you know, have the knowledge, who are actually writing the books, you don't end up getting to see them anymore. Because, you know, your feed is flooded with the people who are trying to be, you know, who are trying to like enter to make money. And that's the part that is the dark internet to me. I think it's dark. It becomes less about the creativity and the art of it and more about monetization, quick bucks, growth hacks. Yeah. But at the same time, like people like Eli, I think taking that form and kind of making fun of it or like using it for good or something.

1:00:08I think that's nice. I want to know. I think if I had a good idea of how I would want to use it, I would enter that conversation. But I just, I don't know if I have time. I barely have time to like brush my teeth. Barely have time. Okay. We'll leave it at that. I like that. Love those sentiments. All right, last one. Eric, where do you want to be in five years with your food media career? Or media career, not just food media because you cover a wide variety of topics. Yeah. I think it's hard to – I think I just want to still be working. I just would like to be – Okay, I'll give you that one. Yeah, I just want to be – I want to be working.

1:00:43I want my byline to still be appearing, you know, occasionally or regularly. a part of me though a part of me though in five years like I'm super tired I'm really tired I think yeah I mean I think I think it'd be I like I like when people kind of go away for a while and then come back like I think it'd be nice to sort of take a break yeah I think I would like that I think taking a break is totally underrated I love the way Adele disappears for four years and writes you know creates another album and comes out every five years our friend Samin Nasrat yes Samin is our Adele is food media. Yeah, and the food media, she took a nice healthy break after the TV show pandemic.

1:01:26And because, again, we're oversaturated with content and I think it's nice when people focus on quality. And I want to continue to write quality journalism, quality books, quality stories. And I kind of also want to expand into culture writing. You know, like I've been playing with it more in my own food columns, but food is culture. But I think I kind of want not just cover other stuff you know I mean Calvin Trillin is a great example you know he of course started as a civil rights reporter and yeah wrote about cops and and then he had his illustrious food writing career and then went back to writing about music yeah I think you obviously could be there yeah five years thanks yeah we'll see but if you retire early or you take a break I won't be able to read your stuff that's well it would be because I'm writing something to be coming out.

1:02:16Yeah, yeah, yeah. In the future, maybe? I don't know. But I was like, yeah, let's leave it there. Leave it there. Okay, well, let's wrap the show. Listen, YouTube folks, I'm going to point at the camera because this was the first, I think it went pretty well. Yeah. We like talked about food writing and that was important. And you know what? If you're listening to this on the podcast and you're this far, check out the YouTube channel. Subscribe. If you're on YouTube, you should comment. Eric, what a pleasure. Thank you so much for joining. Thanks for having me. It's always a pleasure.

1:02:50This is Taste is hosted and produced by Eliza Abarbanal and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is edited by lead producer Clayton Gumbert and supervised by Pat Stango, director of media production and development at Penguin Random House. Thanks to Shalia Harris and the production team at Penguin Random House. Theme music by Steve Rydell. logo and guest illustrations by Ellie Skrzat visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter to keep updated on all cool things in the world of taste

From the publisher

We’re excited to launch a special video podcast series: Food Writers Talking About Food Writing. It’s available on the TASTE YouTube channel, so make sure to subscribe! Every couple of weeks, cohost Matt Rodbard will invite a journalist or cookbook author to talk about some favorite recent food writing as well as their thoughts on the industry as a whole. Our first guest is a special one: Eric Kim is a writer and columnist at the New York Times and a great consumer of food writing. In this episode, we talk about Eric’s media diet, discuss a few favorite stories, Eli Sussman taking over as NYT restaurant critic, and ask the big question: What would you pitch 1997 Graydon Carter? That is, Eric considers his dream no-budget reporting assignment.
You can check out the full episode on YouTube now.
Featured on this episode:

Steak Fries: Deservedly Reviled or Underappreciated Edible Spoons? [NYT]

What Can’t Jerk Do? [TASTE]

Chef Eli Sussman Named NYT Restaurant Critic [Instagram]

Lessons From Germany on a Better Bratwurst [NYT]

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