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Podcast Notes: This Is TASTE - Episode 626: B. Dylan Hollis Took the Wildest Roadtrip Across America to Make the Sweetest Cookbook
Episode Overview In this episode, hosts Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard interview B. Dylan Hollis, an influential TikTok and YouTube creator, about his journey through vintage cookbooks for his new book, *Baking Across America*. The discussion revolves around Hollis's unique recipes and his experiences traveling across the U.S. to explore baking history.
Key Themes and Concepts
- The "Three Ws" of Baking
- Wacky, Weird, Wonderful: Hollis describes his approach to baking as focusing on recipes that embody these qualities.
- Journey and Inspiration
- Historical Connection: Hollis's fascination with baking history stems from his childhood, influenced by artifacts and recipes from his family, particularly from his grandparents.
- Travel for Research: He traveled to 19 states plus Washington D.C. to gather recipes and stories, emphasizing the cultural diversity of American baking.
- Celebrity and Recognition
- Hollis discusses the surprising experience of becoming recognizable after gaining fame online during the pandemic. He reflects on how his initial solitary kitchen moments transformed into public interactions.
- Baking as a Creative Outlet
- Hollis mentions the importance of creativity in baking, describing how he approaches recipes from vintage cookbooks with curiosity and love. He emphasizes that baking is an exploration rather than a strict adherence to training or tradition.
- Ingredients and Innovations
- American Staples: The episode discusses American culinary staples like graham crackers and Jell-O, highlighting their historical significance and the innovative ways they were used in vintage recipes.
- Tomato and Chocolate: The episode features a discussion on the *Black Magic Tomato Cake*, which includes condensed tomato soup as a secret ingredient, showcasing the unique combinations found in historical recipes.
Notable Recipes Mentioned
- Prune Whip Pie & Pickle Cheesecake: Examples of the wacky recipes Hollis engages with.
- Sorghum and Honey Pecan Pie: Recipe created during the road trip.
- Graham Cracker Cookies: An ode to Wyoming, blending nostalgia and local ingredients.
- Dirt Cake: A fun anecdote about baking in unique environments.
Insights into the Cookbook
- Hollis's new book, *Baking Across America*, not only provides recipes but also includes stories reflecting regional identities and cultural influences across the U.S.
- The book mixes modern sensibilities with historical recipes, presenting a narrative on American baking history.
Conclusion B. Dylan Hollis shares a spirit of curiosity and creativity in his baking, connecting past traditions to contemporary culture. The episode encapsulates the joys of exploring culinary history and the personal narratives behind beloved recipes.
Key Takeaways
- Embrace the unconventional in cooking to explore nostalgia and creativity.
- The journey of research for recipes can lead to unique experiences and connections.
- Ingredients have historical significance and can tell stories about culture and innovation.
Listening Options
- Subscribe to *This Is TASTE* on [Apple Podcasts](https://apple.com), [Spotify](https://spotify.com), or [YouTube](https://youtube.com).
Additional Resources
- Visit [Taste Cooking](https://tastecooking.com) for more insights, recipes, and culinary discussions.
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This structure aims to provide a comprehensive yet concise overview of the podcast episode, emphasizing the key discussions and takeaways while maintaining an organized format.
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Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. One of my things that I do online is I shout out mispronunciations of ingredients. And there are people who will shout across the concourse, eggy or simonym. And it's so weird to hear that. It makes you really cock the head. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbard.
0:59Have you ever eaten a prune with pie? How about a pickled cheesecake? Well, B. Dylan Hollis absolutely has. The popular TikTok and YouTube creator has racked up millions and millions of views by baking his way through vintage cookbooks that fit his three W's. Wacky, weird, and wonderful. Dylan is back with a new book, Baking Across America, which has him visiting dozens of states to track down recipes and stories from America's amazing baking past. We talk about the crazy travel that went into this unique book project and what he's been baking in his kitchen. We love catching up with one of the sharpest minds in the baking game.
1:37I hope you enjoy this episode.
1:43B. Dylan Hollis, welcome to This Is Taste. Great to see you. How are you doing? I'm doing all right, Matt. Thank you for having me. It's a beautiful morning here. It really is. And it's the morning of your release of your second book. Yes, I know. I'm a bit buzzing. I'm a bit vibrating. It's, you know, it comes at you, you look at it on the calendar, and then when it arrives, it hits you hard. It's a beautiful book, and I really like it. It has a lot of journalistic integrity. We're going to get into it because your first book was a huge hit. I mean, like, truly one of the biggest selling cookbooks of that year.
2:14I mean, it was amazing. And much credit to you, Just having a real vision and really understanding cooking, nostalgia, and just really being smart with the way you develop recipes, thinking about history. What got you into history and baking? You know, it's one of those strange things because I don't really know because as far back as I can remember, I've always been enthralled with it. You know, I've always held on to the records that my grandparents had. I would play those. I would collect old things. I owe a lot to my mother because one of the first things, you know, when you're a kid, you always want, there's one big thing that you want.
2:50You know, I want a car one day. I want this one day. And I was obsessed with this vintage vacuum tube radio I saw on eBay. And, you know, I was like seven. I was like, Mom, can you please get me this? And I convinced her. And that was one of the first things I had in my bedroom when I had a bedroom to myself was an old vacuum tube radio. And, of course, here I was listening to AM stations. I had no idea what they were talking about, but it got me interacting with old school things. And I kept collecting them. My first car was a 1963 Cadillac. I named him Ernest after old country musician Ernest Tubb.
3:28And that's actually on the front of the book. So I'd always surrounded myself with old things. There was something about them. They carried a weight, sort of an echo of yesteryear that I felt was cool bringing that into the modern space. Yeah. And I had collect, like I said, books and stuff. And the covid pandemic, as I always say, we tried new things. We ventured out. Some people learned all sorts of different things. Folks learned how to cook. Folks learned how to bake. And I did, too, from old cookbooks, because that's what I had around. Well, your obsession with music probably had something to do with it as well.
4:04You're a musician yourself and you studied music. And tell me a little bit about in Bermuda growing up and how music and later baking kind of got into your life. That's a great question because my country is a tourist destination. And back in the heyday in the 1950s and the 60s, Americans primarily would go to Bermuda and they would expect different things. They would expect music and, you know, old school British Islander hospitality. mentality. So every hotel on the island had their own Calypso band. My grandfather on my mother's side was a Calypso-nian. John White, he had a band called The Travelers.
4:44And I had his records, you know, it was so cool. So cool. Listening to your grandfather on a record, oh, it was neat. But it was this old school music. And that's, of course, just like I mentioned with baking, that's how I got into music too. So I started playing these old tunes because I spent a lot lot of time with my grandmother, who I dedicated my first book to, Peggy, who's still alive, 94. Oh, beautiful. And it was cool that I could play songs that she knew, and she would tell me, you know, I said, Granny, what should I learn next? And she would list off all these old tunes, and I would learn them.
5:23And I don't know, it just got me seated in this old school. I'm an old soul. When I was born, one of my aunts said, you know, he's been here before. It's like it's absolutely a time warp, but it makes a lot of sense. You're surrounded by these very vintage emblems of British culture and of tourism. And you're on an island, so you're not leaving a lot. So you're really surrounded by this culture. And you're also just very curious, obviously, as a young person. And honestly, it's really special that you've been able to translate it into baking. What is baking like for you growing up? Are you in the kitchen with your grandmother baking?
6:06That's the interesting thing with what I do insofar as I didn't truly bake until 2020. Right, right. You know, I took, we called it FNN in my high school work academy. It's an old private school back on the island. And, you know, you learn your basics, your how to cook, how to bake, you know, and mix things together. So the first thing I ever baked, I think, was a lemon bread. It was a quick bread with Miss Anne Coakley probably in 2008. And I did not interact with bakery much after that. Yeah. So you decided around the pandemic that baking would become your focus. You're clearly you're a musician and then you became a baker.
6:51Let's back up a little bit and just reflect on your celebrity because now you're big. I mean, I know in Wyoming you probably have people stopping in the streets. But when you travel the country and this second book, Baking Across America, you went to 19 states and D.C. What's it like for being Dylan on the street? I mean, people, you're very recognizable. What's it like? What's that been like for you? It's hard to process and it's always so strange because if you look at the genesis, the nexus where I started, it's me in a kitchen alone in the pandemic talking to my phone. And that was the case for two years.
7:33And, you know, school had gone online. Life had gone indoors. So I wasn't out and about. You know, never mind the fact that in Wyoming, you know, there aren't many people to begin with. So I remember through online fame, it was getting bigger and bigger. But you only ever see comments and shares and talks about it on browsers and on your phone. And that's how, you know, DK, my publisher, got into things. And we wrote the book, as many did, online. And then all of a sudden came the time to release the book. And that was the first time since I had started that I was out in the world, out of, you know, the black hole that is Wyoming.
8:17And I'm getting stopped. And I'm like, what is happening? That's weird. Because there was no gradual introduction of this. It was, okay, now I landed in New York and bam, people are in the airport, which is strange because in New York, I feel like people like walk about, no one really cares. Yeah, New York doesn't really, you don't stop like celebrities. If you're a true New Yorker, you play it cool. Yeah. Yeah, you're like, I don't want to, but no, I mean, you're in the airport. You're landing. Yes. I remember it was it was I got a request for a picture for a missus and her kid must have been eight outside of like a Hudson News.
8:56And I was like, you know, you must be mistaken. And it's strange because one of my things that I do online is I I shout out mispronunciations of ingredients. And there are people who will shout across the concourse, eggy or simonym. And it's it's so weird to hear that makes it makes you really comfortable. shock the head. All that to say, it's super fulfilling that something that I enjoy to do, that is experimenting with old cookbooks on camera, I have so much fun. It is incredibly fulfilling that that also brings other people some joy. That seems, I mean, what more could you ask for? It's very rewarding, something that isn't inherently complicated.
9:46It's curiosity. Yeah. And you write your recipes and you create your videos with with such love and respect. And I think people feel that with you. Like, really, they do. They feel that you are playing by it honestly. And I think some creators, true or not, the perception is they're just doing it for the show. They're doing and you're not like that. I mean, that seems to be a little bit of your special sauce. Because there's special sauce in these pages. Yeah. You know, it's – and it was a necessary approach from my end. As someone who is not well-versed in cookery, someone who is not trained, who, you know, doesn't know all the cool restaurants, someone who doesn't know how to properly laminate pastry, how can I get into the cookery space respectfully, publicly, with due care?
10:44Well, you go back and you look at the wild and the wacky and the wonderful things that people really don't, people haven't explored in modernity. Take my first recipe on TikTok, for example, on, you know, one of my first shorts, which was a pork cake from 1915. An old Five Roses flower cookbook, a Canadian flower company. It was a fruitcake with a pound of pork in it. Nobody is going to comment and say, oh, you made that pork cake wrong. Right. So you've got some liberty there. You can show enthusiasm for something that you don't know too much about and you can present that in a food sphere. But without all of the respect that's needed normally, if I was to say, here's a spaghetti bolognese.
11:27Yeah. Oh, I mean that. Yeah. When you start tackling bolognese, you've got like, you know, so many comments. Let's go back to this. Let's go back to this pork cake. Yes. I mean, is it good? Because, I mean, I have to ask, like, it doesn't sound traditional, but I'm going to be open-minded about a pound of pork in a sweet dessert. I like your approach. Yes. Because it was not inherently bad. It was this sort of, back in the day, you would make your cakes if you didn't have butter, if you didn't have lard, if you didn't even have suet. you could get by with a pound of ground pork if it were relatively fatty as a replacement for the fat in your quick bread.
12:09So there are savory notes to it which don't exactly play well. It's one of those things where your olfactory senses seem to kick in before the taste. So you can tell something's wrong. I mean, like a roasting pork is very iconic. It's a very unique meat, right, and protein. It just, it wafts your house. And it sure did. It wafted throughout my house. It was one of those things where the smell worried you. But when everything came down, it was a fruitcake that frightfully presented naturally. It was it was risen. It was like it was the right color. You couldn't see anything. And that was like, wow, OK, are there more recipes that do things like this?
12:56It's so cool. I love it. I love everything you're doing. I really mean it. It's really, really special. And, you know, there's like food science programs, there's food history programs, there's academics studying this stuff. And they're all wonderful, too. I think you're taking in such a different approach using the source texts, but you're admitting that you're not a professionally trained pastry chef. And you're creating these kind of homages to these old recipes. And it's just, it's wonderful. Thank you. Well, let's from February 20th to March 7th, dive into Canada's biggest culinary festival, Montreal en Lumière, an exclusive partnership with the McCord Stewart Museum and its exhibition On the Menu Montreal, a restaurant story.
13:40The 2026 festival invites food lovers on a flavorful journey through time. Montreal's top restaurateurs will reimagine 65 years of the city's iconic astronomy, crafting inventive, nostalgia-inspired dishes with a modern twist. Prepare your palate. World-renowned chefs, including several Michelin-starred talents, will team up with over 80 of Montreal's finest local chefs to create unforgettable, one-of-a-kind menus. The full program is available at MontrealOnLumiere.com Presented by Lotto Quebec in collaboration with National Bank This episode is brought to you by Aura Frames If you're one of those last minute shoppers, you might know the feeling Ideas are running low and the clock is ticking Here's a fun idea, Aura Frames Aura Frames is the solution with a gift that feels personal, a little curated, and sent with love and a gift that can be purchased in no time with a few clicks of the mouse.
14:39Aura frames are great. They sent me one to check out and it was really cool and dumb simple to set up. I loaded photos using the app and it was displaying them instantly. There are no limits to the amount of photos you can load and you can customize messages with each photo. And here's the deal. You can preload an Aura frame with photos and have it directly sent to that special person in your life, gift wrapped and all. There will be no price tag and you can include a personalized message. Think about it. All those photos from this past summer's family reunion delivered in a digital frame. That is pretty cool.
15:14For a limited time, save on the perfect gift by visiting AuraFrames.com to get$35 off Aura's best-selling Carver Matte Frames, named number one by Wirecutter by using promo code TASTE at checkout. That's A-U-R-A-Frames.com, promo code TASTE. The deal is exclusive to listeners and frames sell out fast, so order yours now to get in time for the holidays. Support the show by mentioning us at checkout. Terms and conditions apply. Let's talk about the second book. You know, Baking Yesterdayer obviously was done at your home, and you're mining through this massive cookbook collection. You decide to do something that I really respect.
15:53You go on the road. You photograph the book on the road, which my own personal books, I do that myself, and I really like that approach. I think it really gives a lot of life to recipes that maybe aren't given in a studio setting. But Dylan, man, this was quite the journey that you went on. So tell me a little bit about when you were looking at the whole United States map and you're like, I need to cover the country and I need to go to these places. What's that like, the planning of this trip? Almost insurmountable from the outset, because the United States is one country. But boy, is it like you have 50 odd countries, you know, around.
16:33And they're so different. You look at Laramie, Wyoming, where I am. You know, if you go two hours in either direction, you're in completely different biomes, completely different. You can start in the high mountains and then you'll be in a sun-drenched desert with completely different sensibilities. So we sort of zoomed out and we said, what are the distinct areas of the United States? And then instead of thinking of all of these states, you start thinking of, and this is sort of divorced from the idea of food. You start thinking about the Southwest. You start thinking about the Pacific Northeast.
17:10You start thinking about, you know, rather the Pacific Northwest. And then, you know, the New England. So these identities begin to show up and then you can tackle it from that space. You say, OK, I can't go to all of the desert states, but we can hit Palm Springs. Is that sort of the capital of all the deserts? And that's how we came to like culture capitals. So, you know, Palm Springs was a culture capital. Boston, Massachusetts was a culture capital. Now, when you do these things, invariably, you're going to miss some areas. But the idea was to capture the essence. And that's how we started.
17:54And we mapped them all out. And when we were photographing this book, man, we began in May and we didn't close up until August. Wow. And you're on the road. Tell me a little about the traveling party. Like, what's it like? Are you flying city to city? Are you in a car driving around? I mean, again, 19 states plus D.C. Most cookbooks just can't tackle that scope. And it's amazing that you're able to do this. I really love that you put in the work and it shows in the book. But what's the travel like? How are you? And are you going to restaurants and are you doing the research on the fly as you're visiting these cities?
18:28A lot of the research, of course, had to be done beforehand. The recipe testing and all of these things had to be done beforehand because we not only did we photograph the book, we baked the actual the actual recipes on the road. That's insane. It was. And it caused a lot of stress, a lot of excitement. But to answer your question, let's take our the first leg that we did was in in the south. So me, a college friend of mine, Kaylee Stalder, who was a great baker, acted as my baking assistant. I wanted someone who knew me, knew my insanities, and knew my sort of non-standard way of approaching these things to help me with ingredients and help me prep these things.
19:14My editor, Alexander Rigby, and we had picked Mackenzie Smith-Kelly as our photographer, a wonderful photographer based out of Texas. And that was the crew. So take this first trip. We all flew separately into Savannah. We rented a car. We met each other in the baggage claim. Kaylee had the list of ingredients for, you know, the recipes that we were making. There was a sorghum. We have a sorghum and honey pecan pie in the recipe and a few others. But our first stop was a grocery store. We checked into this Airbnb. We got to work. And the next morning we were slinging a pecan pie outside of Forsyth Park.
19:57And then, you know, we drove from Georgia right the way through all the states to New Orleans, Louisiana. I was in charge of parking a car in the French Quarter, which was perhaps one of the most stressful parts of the trip. But that was repeated on all the culture capitals. Some required more work and more planning. For example, we photographed in Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park. Now, there's no Airbnbs there. So here I was baking recipes, putting them in a bloody suitcase, having to bear proof them so that once we landed and we were walking to our photograph location, you know, we weren't assaulted by wildlife and mammals.
20:45and then we would unpack everything and shoot and hope for gold. And I feel so lucky that we got some gold. You really did. And just baking in real time in Airbnbs and unfamiliar kitchens. I mean, that's its own book, How to Bake in an Airbnb, because we've all checked into them and we're like, are these really the pans? How did you deal with that, like actually baking on the road? Oh, my goodness. I mean, there lied the necessity to pivot on the heel. We had, you know, there were some Airbnbs that didn't have metal bowls. So our, you know, double boiler situation to make something like a boiled frosting for a fully assembled lane cake.
21:34Here we were, you know, using, I think we ended up using a glass bowl that was used to hold decorations on the coffee table. Oh, yeah. I've done that. You just pick whatever's in the house. Yeah. And, you know, you melted a spatula here and there and you had to apologize. It was stressful. I remember the gooey butter cake that we had to make. and I don't know if you've ever interacted with a really old electric oven that has... I've rented in New York City, so absolutely yes, 100%. But as you know, they have a top element sometimes, which when it comes to baking, does some different things. Yes, it does.
22:17So I recall being astounded that we were able to completely burn a gooey butter cake in seven minutes. It was like a broiler function from the start. I should have known because we turned it on and, you know, the rest of the house's lights dimmed. It was a bit scary. But there's a lot of stories to tell. Yeah. And one of my favorite was we baked. Well, it isn't baked. We assembled. Do you know about the dirt cake? Do I know about the dirt cake, my friend? Of course. I am from Michigan. So we, Dirt and Worms was like literally every one of my growing up, like I would say functions, birthday parties.
23:05I mean, Dirt Cake is definitely part of my life. Yeah. I should have known. Of course, being from Bermuda, you talk, I talked to, you know, my friends on the phone. They said, what are you talking about? Is that like the mud pies you used to make as a kid? I said, no. But yeah, it's, as you know, it's the, you know, layered puddings and cookie crumbs. Do you put gummies in it too? Oh, of course. Of course. Of course. You have to state it optionally because in modern times, people have their opinions. Sure, sure, sure. Although I don't think those people from the start would make a dirt cake. We call it dirt and worms, actually.
23:36Really? That's the way we call it. Yeah, dirt and worms. I like that one better almost. For some reason, I found that the state of Missouri seems to pen a lot of the dirt cake recipes. Yeah, totally. But my favorite, to circle back, one of my favorite was we rented this sort of haunted mansion in Kansas City. It was built in 1900 by a cattle baron. It was called the Byers Mansion. And it was, you know, it was the 1900s and it seemingly never left. And it was this big ornate parlor, you know, big huge sort of ornamentation and crown moldings. and here we were in this grand room and we were just making dirt cakes in individual servings and we shot that in this mansion.
24:26So here's this pretty like bureau and then a little in one of those fancy cocktail glasses from the 19 aughts is this dirt cake with a gummy worm hanging out. It was so great. So cool. Absurd. And I think there's fun in the absurd. Oh yeah, you really hemmed it up a lot in the photography. There's some absurdity. It has a point of view. I mean, you're in D.C. and you're out to the Watergate Hotel and you're wearing like Nixon T-shirts. What a fun photo shoot. I love that. I want to pivot a little bit and talk about some distinctly American ingredients. At the beginning of the book, you make a list.
25:03And one of them is graham crackers, which I love that you focus on it. The other is Jell-O, too. How did you think about these traditional American products and what are some recipes that maybe use them in a cool way? Graham crackers are one of my favorite things. You know, Graham flour back in the day, you know, Sylvester Graham, health reformist. He had the idea to make this special type of it's a whole wheat flour, but just the milling process is different. keeps a few more parts of that in the flour mix itself. And it lends itself to a very particularly old school flavor. And if you thumb through cookbooks from the 19 aughts and 1910s and 20s, they would call for graham flour almost as commonly as they would all-purpose or bleached.
25:58And that's what got me started on the path of, you know, what is this? Who's graham? It was Sylvester, of course. But graham crackers are very interesting because you see them so much in so many icebox pies in the U.S. I mean, even the key lime pie now, you know, it's required. A lot of the no-bake pies are required. You can buy them preassembled, and they're not elsewhere. In the U.K., there's none of this. Back home, there's none of this. So in Bermuda, I grew up with this because we get a lot of stuff from the United States. even though everything is in kilometers and degrees centigrade. But I needed to open Baking Across America because a lot of the recipes in my first cookbook called for these things.
26:50And I got responses from folks in the UK and Australia saying, Hi, I can't bake these. Do you have any replacements? So, of course, you think of the key lime pie with graham crackers and then jello. Now, here's a very interesting thing. Everywhere has unflavored gelatin crystals, but to have a pre-sweetened, stabilized gelatin mixture that serves as the base of almost the entirety of the 1960s and 1970s Midwestern no-bake cookery area, you can do so much with it. In baking yesteryear, there is a cake flavored primarily with Jell-O. Not only the cake itself, but the frosting. We called it the color vision cake.
27:41I remember that. Wonderful recipe. It's pink. And there's utility there. Jell-O was not made for buttercream frostings. But it stops it from sort of deteriorating in heat. It colors it and it flavors it. Now, this is devoid of whatever you think of its health benefits. It's buttercream frosting from the beginning. But it's a really cool idea. And I think only in America could someone take something completely intended for something different and shove it into baking. Yeah. I mean, you mine those community cookbooks and just like books from the mid-century and just see this innovation and you really respect it.
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28:26I do. I look at these recipes and clearly there were people with a lot of time. You know, it was like pre-internet. So people had a lot of time in their kitchens and obviously a culture where, you know, women were not offered jobs. And there was a lot of times when women were were in the kitchen cooking for families, but also women were there innovating and using Jell-O, using these industrial products in cool ways. And I think you give a lot of respect to the innovation when I think a lot of people kind of snark at like some of these recipes and think it's it's like industrial and uncreative.
28:58But I would I would disagree. I am so glad you brought that up because they are they are ingredients of convenience. jello and graham crackers and cool whip yep they are yes industrial they are yes mass produced but as you as you touched on they begin to free women from the kitchen in a time where that's where they were expected to be or whatnot it gave more time to them it gave more time for them to to set their table and do as they want. And that's really cool because that comes from, well, it starts up from, from manufacturer, manufacturers to the grocery stores, to, to, to getting it in the house and giving you more time.
29:51And you're right. I think it's correct to venerate that. Love that. We are aligned there because it's full of these, absolutely full of recipes with innovation in mind. So I love that. Let's move on and talk about the black magic tomato cake from New Jersey. Really, really interesting using tomatoes in a chocolate cake. Talk about the way you discovered this. And let's give Jersey some props. Love New Jersey. I love it. I think it's a wonderful state with great history and a lot of misperceptions about it. I'm a pro-Jersey guy here. Campbell's Soup Company right there in Camden. Yep. You think about whether it be, you know, Warhol's paintings, Campbell's soup is a fixture of America.
30:38And my interest in condensed soups came from Campbell's recipe advertisements from back in the day. I mean, you see the 1920s, the 1930s, these ingredient manufacturers would put out their own cookbooks, advertisements really in themselves. But it started as the secret ingredient to many spice cakes would be, you know, your nutmeg, your cloves, your cinnamon. And then they would have a can of condensed tomato soup in there. And that's how the tomato soup cake came about. But that's the most well-known of the quirky soup recipes from yesteryear. But there, of course, were many others. And this Black Magic tomato cake was one of Campbell's.
31:25and it was a way to give high gloss, high moisture, fudginess to a chocolate cake. And boy, yes, you can slightly taste tomato, but it's barely. And what it gives is far more than you would expect. It's more than the sum of its parts. Yeah, I mean, you think about tomatoes, full glutamates, and it's offering this texture to the cake, like similar like the mayonnaise would have in a chocolate cake as well. And I think you're not overpowering with tomato. You're just adding what they call complexity, some people use that word. And really, you don't taste tomato, you taste chocolate, but it's like an amplified chocolate with the glutamates working.
32:08And it's a brilliant recipe, frankly. It's really good. And would you call them like amplifiers? You find in the ingredients of a lot of old school recipes, you would have lemon where it had, you know, the core taste had nothing to do with lemon. And the idea was that it would like boost the flavors of whatever else is in there. Is it sort of like salt, would you say? It's like a citric acid, right? You add a citric acid to some ingredients like a chocolate or some kind of a cream. And yeah, you're getting the brightness, but you're not getting the overpowering lemon. It's not like a lemon bar.
32:44It's like a chocolate cake on steroids in some ways. So I think the food science of the era and you touch on it is really fascinating. My question that I, you know, of course, in 2020, whatever, we don't know. Would you say that it was primarily Campbell's trying to get as many bakers to use their condensed soups? Or do you actually think that they approached it from how you described that it was a complex addition to a chocolate cake? If I'm going to speculate, I would say like you've got a room full of like white guys in suits smoking a lot of cigarettes. We're literally like, let's sell more soup.
33:26But then you've got a test kitchen possibly filled with women who are innovating and like kind of taking that remit from the suits. Sell more tomato soup. And they're like funded. Obviously, it's a major company and they're figuring out ways to simply cook with more soup in unique ways. And then, of course, delivering on the promise, because if it's bad, it's not going to sell more soup. But if it's great, you know, you're going to be like word of mouth. No Internet here. You're talking about like phoning up your friend, going to church, talking about these great recipes from Campbell's. I just envision like the innovation and giving respect to these food scientists and developers using these products creatively.
34:11Yeah, that's I think you're right. I think you're right. It sort of started high up and then a lot of work must have been put into it because you're right. Is it if it were bad, would it have survived? No, no. Yeah. And the same with Cool Whip. Like you've got this industrial product, but you can't just like put Cool Whip in a bowl and serve that as a dessert. You had to do something with it. And again, back to the innovation happening. And I'm going to speculate primarily women in those kitchens. Brilliant people. 1966. I don't know. You know, it changed American attitudes in the kitchen evermore.
34:48Let's talk about the state of Michigan. A lot of pride there. You have three recipes. You could you could have just picked one like Wisconsin or one like Indiana. But you picked three for Michigan. Why, Dylan, why do you why do you why do you focus on Michigan so much? Michigan started a lot. I have this obsession with the Kellogg Company. Yeah. And, you know, there were some wild people up there in Battle Creek, Michigan. I grew up down the street in Kalamazoo. Did you hear stories about the sanitarium? Oh, yeah. I love those stories. Great stuff. Yeah. Cornflakes, one of the most well-known cereals, and cereals as a whole can be arguably traced to Michigan.
35:31And the Kellogg brothers' work there. They were, like Sylvester Graham, health food reformists. They had some sort of madcap attitudes. But cereals in baked goods is another one of those really American things. So there's a recipe for cherry winks in Baking Across America, which is only one of the many instances where cereals come into baked goods. I mean, you think about even just Rice Krispie treats. That can be traced to Michigan. Scotch-a-roos, that can be traced to Michigan. So I wanted to touch on that. And then you have, I got obsessed purely by the name, but it was the bumpy cake from the Sanders Confectionery company, which I'm interested in that.
36:27I mean, it's a chocolate cake and there's buttercream bumps there and there's a veil of chocolate on top. So nothing quite too special. But it introduces that argument that texture plays a larger role in the reception of taste than you would expect. Because if you do it differently, even keep the same ingredients and same three sort of facets of that recipe. It's a completely different recipe. So I went down this rabbit hole of, is really the way that you frost a cake changing the reception of it so much? Yes, it is. And people love the bumpy cake. And then the Mackinac Island fudge, that started not as an interest in the fudge itself, which of course is very good.
37:13But Mackinac Island is fascinating to me because in the automobile mecca of Michigan, here is an island devoid of the automobile. Did you go up there? No. Yeah, you got to make it. Yeah, I figured one day you'll get up there. It's a pretty interesting place. Yeah. I hear it's like stepping back in time. Yeah, you would love it. Absolutely love Mackinac Island. Let's talk about closer to your home, the cowboy cookie, the Laramies. You had to obviously pay respect to Wyoming where you live. Tell us a little bit about that one. I love graham cracker crumbs, and I came across a few recipes that started replacing a high ratio of the flour of a recipe with graham cracker crumbs.
38:00There's something that doesn't sound too complicated, but the tasted in parts is incredible to me, something so simple. You've got toastiness. You've got warmth. You've got whatever it is that makes graham crackers, graham crackers. You know, you do it with anything else and it's not a s'more, for example. There's something special there. But the Laramies are the take on the cowboy cookie where there's no oats as you would have in a cowboy cookie. But there's this replacement with graham cracker crumbs. And I had made this recipe, this type of cookie, which I first called Sylvester's when I was making after Sylvester Graham.
38:43And it's a true recipe that I made sort of from the ground up. Of course, a cookie is a cookie. The ratio's there since time immemorial. Immemorium. Yeah. But I found that graham crackers, pecans, coconut, just a little touch of almond extract, which is a bit contrived, but it's good, created a really, really nice cookie. And this is – I took a risk here because the cookie elicits the idea of a place I love so much to me. Yeah. So I had to include it. And really, it's a recipe for me, for my friends, and as an ode to Wyoming, even if other people don't see it as that. I wanted to put the stamp there because Wyoming means so much to me.
39:30And I wanted to, yeah, stamp it so this be into history. It's a great recipe. I can't wait to make it. There's so many stops. We could talk all day about America. But I really love your focus on Palm Springs. I'm a major I love Palm Springs. It's a very special place to me. And you spent a lot of time there. And obviously, when thinking about these wonderful mid-century buildings and just a culture that's, you know, preserved in amber, it really aligns. But it's also just a fun place to hang out. What drew you to Palm Springs and what was a recipe that you took from there? Well, Palm Springs, you know, as we started this conversation saying how much I'm in love with yesteryear and old school things.
40:16And there's no other place in the United States really that embodies that more than Palm Springs. I also really, really, really love the heat. Yeah. My favorite national park is Death Valley. Yeah. I have a picture of me by the, you know, the temperature call out in furnace wells. It was 130. You know, I went on a few hikes. I only passed out twice. It was great. But Palm Springs is, like you said, preserved in amber. You see the cars that I drive every day. They're, you know, on the roads, and it's not just me. There's veneration of yesteryear and mid-century design. So that's a call for it. That's a reason to go there.
40:59I also, my favorite fruit is the date. Oh, wow. I love it so much. And, you know, you talk about old cookbooks. The date is everywhere. So Palm Springs, the Coachella Valley as a whole, I mean, makes so many dates. It's ridiculous. And you can find these date candies, stuffed dates, date everything, quick bread, cookies, macaroons. It's great. And the Mojave nuggets is a recipe in Baking Across America, which is just ground dates and nuts and coconut and, you know, a bit of almond flour there to give it body. It's not baked. And it's a confection that is natural, so to speak. And it's incredibly good.
41:41So I wanted to include something like that in Baking Across America. And we shot that in Palm Springs. It was like 110 degrees. We shot it at a cactus garden. And we were all sweating, you know, to high heavens. So that's a story there. And you'll find a lot of the recipes in California involve dates. You were there in the summer. Oh, yeah. I love it. I've been there in the summer, too. It's very different. Most people don't go there in the summer. Have you been – do you know Billy Reads at all? No. Did you ever go to this restaurant in Palm Springs? I have to plug it. I've talked about it on the show.
42:15It's this wonderful – I think it was started in the 60s. and their pie case is of legend. You know, and it's, Dylan, this is your spot. Billy Reed. Billy Reed's. It's right on East Palm Canyon. It's, I love it. Beautiful. Yeah, well, I'll link you up with it later. Please do. Well, this has been so much fun. We could talk all day. I love your work. I'm such a fan. Hi there. It's Matt, co-host of the show. We are currently running a This Is Taste listener survey and we'd love to hear from you. Do you have a guest request? A restaurant you wish we'd visit to talk about on three things? What about a lesser-known cookbook author who deserves a spot in our studio chair?
42:59You can let us know by clicking the link in our show notes to complete the survey. It will only take a couple minutes, I swear, and will help us continue to make the best show possible. That's the This Is Taste listener survey, link in our show notes. Today's episode is brought to you by ButcherBox. As a food writer, I can be a little skeptical about subscription cooking boxes you hear about on podcasts. There's big talk about cooking simplicity, but you're usually left with disappointment after smashing that promo code. Now, Clayton, have you ever tried one of those subscription boxes? Yeah, Matt, my friend gave me a code for that one that has all the chopped vegetables in little baggies.
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44:17It was incredible. These ButcherBox ribs are amazing. For nearly a decade, ButcherBox has led the industry with meat and seafood that's antibiotic-free. As an exclusive offer, our listeners can get free protein in every box for a year, plus$20 off your first box when you go to butcherbox.com slash taste. Visit butcherbox.com slash taste to get this limited time offer and free shipping always. That's butcherbox.com slash taste. Don't forget to use our link so they know we sent you. On This Is Taste, we ask guests about their starting taste. So to close this interview, here's a little rapid fire.
44:55Fast and Furious Taste Check, are you ready? I am ready. The best fruit? Dates. I mean, obviously, the worst vegetable. Yeah. Eggplant. Yeah. Tough hang. Good one. What's your typical breakfast? Oats. Yeah. How do you do it? It is just a bowl of oatmeal. Yeah. Water. I don't add anything else. Water, oats, as in, pardon me, as in no milk. Yeah. Cinnamon and a bit of brown sugar. Yeah. Easy. Love it. Do you do overnight or do you do it, just cook it? No, I don't do this overnight nonsense. You know, I never understood overnight oats. It's just, I don't know. I'll start lobbing out expletives. I think it's the case that I just don't understand it.
45:48And we tend to not like things we don't understand. Yeah, it's a little mushy. So maybe I need to dive into it a bit more. You might like it. I feel like you might be reformed. All right, big one for you, the best dessert. Oh, my goodness. It's like picking a favorite child. Chocolate chip cookie. Yeah. I can't think of anything more impactful and wide-reaching than a chocolate chip cookie. When you're craving fast food, where are you going? McDonald's. Yeah, man. I know they don't make the fries the way they used to, but a salty, greasy, kind of wilted thing of fries, it's sometimes just what you crave.
46:25Yeah. It's like how I like burnt diner coffee. Yeah. That's been on the heat since, you know, 10 and it's now 3. There's something about that. Yeah. It puts you in a place and it's great with pie. Pairs well with pie. Does it really? I love a burnt coffee and pie combination. You get the bitterness with the cream and great pie. I find that to be a perfect pairing. Oh, that's giving like Twin Peaks vibe. It really is. Your favorite city outside America to visit for food? Hamilton, Bermuda. Yeah. I love fish cakes and fish. Yeah. And let me tell you, in Wyoming, it is impossible to find any good fish that's from the ocean.
47:11You know, you can find good freshwater fish. But sometimes I just want a fried cod cake, fried plantains, and some crab cakes. Yeah. I'm in heaven. Beautiful food there. Incredible. Hope one day you write about it. I'd love to hear about Bermuda from your point of view. Very different from what you're doing now, but love to read that. Last one, your favorite sandwich. Chicken Waldorf. Oh, yeah. Great call. A chicken Waldorf. I've been obsessed with it for quite some time now. And there's something about adding those grapes. I have to have it with raisins, too. Yeah, I like that. What a great sandwich.
47:57I love those strange combinations. You know, if I might offer one last thing, and you can cut this if you like. No, we ain't gotten it. I love getting bagels in New York. Yeah. However, I'm not a New Yorker. And I had to say, I got looked at the other day like I had three heads. Because I love a cinnamon raisin bagel. Yeah. I also like cream cheese with chives. Oh, you went there. I put the two together and the volume of the entire establishment fell by about half. Is that like a faux pas? I love it. Are you kidding me? That's an amazing order. Because it brought you joy. But also, I mean, you're right.
48:42Your baking is about contrasts. And having allium in cream cheese with the sweetness of a cinnamon raisin bagel, that's beautiful contrast. And that's what a lot of your baking is about. Oh, you get it. You get my endorsement. Thank you. Dylan Hollis, thank you so much for joining This Is Taste. Cheers. It's been a pleasure. Thank you.
49:07This Is Taste is hosted and produced by Eliza Abarbanal and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is edited by lead producer Clayton Gumbert and supervised by Pat Stango, director of media production and development at Penguin Random House. Thanks to Shalia Harris and the production team at Penguin Random House. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Logo and guest illustrations by Ellie Skrzat. Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter to keep updated on all cool things in the world of taste.
From the publisher
Have you ever eaten prune whip pie? How about pickle cheesecake? Well, B. Dylan Hollis absolutely has. The popular TikTok and YouTube creator has racked up millions (and millions) of views by baking his way through vintage cookbooks that fit his “three Ws”: wacky, weird, and wonderful. Dylan is back with a new book, Baking Across America, which had him visiting dozens of states to track down recipes and stories from America’s amazing baking past. We talk about the crazy travel that went into this unique book project and what he’s baking in his Montana kitchen. We loved catching up with one of the sharpest minds in the baking game.
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