635: Taiwan #1 with Eric Sze

6 Aug 2025 · 1 h 9 min

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Podcast Summary: This Is TASTE - Episode 635: Taiwan #1 with Eric Sze

Hosts

  • Aliza Abarbanel
  • Matt Rodbard

Guest

  • Eric Sze: Chef-owner of Taiwanese restaurants 886 and Wenwen in NYC, author of the upcoming cookbook Taiwanese?.

Episode Overview In this episode, Eric Sze shares his culinary journey, the complexities of defining Taiwanese cuisine, and the experience of operating restaurants in New York City. Additionally, journalist Elizabeth Dunn discusses her article on the protein bar market, focusing on David Protein.

Key Topics Discussed

  1. Eric Sze's Culinary Journey
  2. Background: Born and raised in Taiwan, Eric moved to NYC at age 18 for college (NYU).
  3. Early Influences:
  4. Memorable food experiences include his first American steak at Ruth's Chris in Taipei.
  5. Transitioned from a college student to a chef through hands-on learning in various kitchen environments.
  • Entrepreneurial Start:
  • Created a food startup called Scallion Foods during college, selling beef noodle soup kits to fellow students via WeChat.
  1. Opening and Running Restaurants
  2. The Tang:
  3. Eric co-founded The Tang, a Chinese-style noodle restaurant, despite limited experience.
  4. Learned quickly, dedicating 16-18 hours a day to master the kitchen.
  • 886 and Wenwen:
  • Eric’s passion for Taiwanese cuisine led to the creation of 886, inspired by a desire to celebrate his heritage and the lack of Taiwanese restaurants in NYC.
  • He emphasizes the need for Taiwanese restaurants to provide a cultural space for Taiwanese food and drink.
  1. Characteristics of Taiwanese Cuisine
  2. Cultural Influence:
  3. An amalgamation of Chinese, Japanese, and indigenous influences.
  4. Difficulty in defining what constitutes Taiwanese food due to its evolving nature and diverse components.
  • Nostalgic Dishes:
  • Eric discusses iconic Taiwanese dishes, including beef noodle soup, and their personal significance.
  • Research Trip:
  • Eric recently traveled to Taiwan for research on his upcoming cookbook, capturing the rich culinary landscape.
  1. Elizabeth Dunn's Segment on Protein Bars
  2. Introduction to Elizabeth Dunn: A journalist who has explored the protein bar market.
  • David Protein:
  • A revolutionary protein bar brand marketed for its high protein-to-calorie ratio and unique ingredients, including esterified propoxylated glycerol (EPG).
  • Discusses the implications of EPG in protein bar production and the controversies surrounding it.
  • Industry Insights:
  • Highlights the competitive nature of the protein bar market and the trend of protein-maxing in diets.
  • Addresses the backlash from smaller companies after David acquired Epigee, the producer of EPG.

Key Takeaways

  • Culinary Exploration: Eric’s journey reflects a blend of personal memory and cultural exploration, emphasizing the importance of understanding one’s roots in food.
  • Restaurant Landscape: The evolution of Taiwanese cuisine in NYC signifies a growing appreciation and demand for diverse culinary representations.
  • Market Dynamics: Elizabeth’s insights into the protein bar industry reveal the complexities of food marketing and consumer behavior in the current health-conscious environment.

Additional Resources

  • Read Elizabeth Dunn's Article: [The Protein Bar Arms Race](https://www.nytimes.com)
  • Website: [Taste Cooking](https://tastecooking.com)

Conclusion This episode of This Is TASTE intricately weaves personal narratives about food and culture with broader discussions of market trends, capturing the essence of culinary identity and modern food movements. Eric Sze’s passion for Taiwanese cuisine and Elizabeth Dunn’s exploration of the protein bar industry provide a rich tapestry of insights for food enthusiasts.

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Transcript

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0:28This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. I didn't even know what a low boy was. I didn't know what a court was. I didn't know anything. But I knew that I liked to cook, and I knew that I could outwork everybody. So I was spending 16 to 18 hours every single day at the Tang, just learning. Because every single person we hired in the kitchen had more experience than me. This is Taste. I'm your host, Eliza Barbanel.

0:59Eric Z is the chef-owner behind the Taiwanese restaurants 886 and Wenwen in New York City. He's also working on a debut cookbook, and recently got back from a whirlwind trip conducting research and taking photos for the book. Eric is one of our favorite voices in food, and it's so fun to have him in the studio to unpack his culinary career, the tricky task of defining Taiwanese food, operating restaurants in New York, and more. Also on this episode, I catch up with journalist Elizabeth Dunn. She wrote a terrific piece for The New York Times about David Protein and this protein-maxing era we live in.

1:33It's a great story and an even better conversation. I hope you enjoy this episode. Eric Zee, this is Taste. Thank you for coming on the podcast. Thanks for having me. Well, that was so formal. I mean, I am very, very, very happy to be here. I'm a big fan. I've been following you guys for a long time and never thought I'd make it here. Well, I could say the same about you. I have loved all of your food and also just the way that you share food online. And so I think we'll have a lot of fun things to talk about today. Yeah, I mean, my stuff is definitely very unhinged. We'll see how unhinged we can make it.

2:10I guess to start, I want to give a little bit of insight into who you are and your kind of perspective on food. And I'm wondering if you can tell me an early food memory that you have. this memory changes every day but i think for today it's a memory from when i was eight years old i was in taiwan so i was born and raised in taiwan and my dad one day was like hey you want to eat some steak and before that i had no idea like my memory of steak was okay um the Taiwanese night market steaks which is very casual heavily doused in sauce not the most premium cuts and my dad was like I'm gonna blow your mind today he brought me to Ruth's Chris in Taipei and I'm pretty sure that was the very first time I had steak with an ungodly amount of butter.

3:07The first time I had American ribeye steak with just probably a whole cup of butter. And that blew my mind. And that was a very sort of formative and transformative food experience for me. And to this day, like steak is still my go-to. There's nothing more enjoyable than sitting down in front of a thick cut, whether it be a New York strip or a ribeye or a port-a-house and having a glass of wine with it. Yeah. Do you go to the steakhouses here in New York? Not as often as I want to. My buddies and I have, we have this go-to place. It's called Prime and Beyond in Fort Lee. So we make a trip out of it.

3:52Like Jersey? Yeah, Jersey, Fort Lee. So it's Korean-American owned. They dry-age their own beef and it's all prime grade. and they cook it on a grill. They don't use butter. They baste it with dry-aged beef fat. And you have a lot of Korean sides, whether it be shredded scallion salad or kimchi that you can order from. And at my age, that kind of steak experience doesn't grease me out as much, right? I'm not like drenched in butter. My meat sweats kick in about 30 minutes later than if I were to go to Luger's. And so that's my favorite place. And it's also BYOB. Yeah. Steakhouses, I'm a big fan of.

4:39I actually just popped my Wolfgang's cherry. How was it? It was delicious. It's great. I mean, I feel like steakhouses in New York are such a, it's such an established culture that anybody who's been around for more than a decade is going to have their shit together. Yeah, it's like a time capsule also. I feel like at so many places, like the waiters have probably been the same for 30 years. The menu has been the same for 30 years. And it feels like you could be back in time a little bit as well. Yeah, sometimes that's a double-edged sword though. Yeah. You have to have a good desire for nostalgia, I think.

5:16And then that's the ingredient that they can never get wrong. Exactly. So I'm curious. I feel like I've been eating your food for a while, but I don't know that much about your actual trajectory into restaurants. Could you maybe like briefly give a rundown about that? Yeah. So I'm very much a fake it till you make it kind of guy. And I'm still faking it today. I grew up in Taiwan. I came in Taiwan. Taipei. Actually, I spent 12 years in Taipei City. And then at the age of 12, I moved to new Taipei City. Yeah. This place called Xindian, where my grandma lived. So we move in with my grandma to just, you know, have more family together.

5:56And at the age of 18, I came to New York for college, kind of stuck around. And I went to NYU and junior year of NYU. That was when this was showing my age, but that was 2013. And chef steps were were just like blowing up on YouTube. and they were sort of like the, not the pioneers, but they made sous vide very accessible, right? The knowledge of sous vide. And being a broke college student, I couldn't afford a sous vide machine. They were like 600 bucks back then. And so what I did was I bought a countertop deep fryer off a Facebook marketplace. And instead of filling it with oil, I filled it with water because they have that temperature thermometer slash temperature controlling heating element.

6:50But there was no fan. So there was nothing sort of mixing the water to ensure that the temperature at the top and the temperature at the bottom was the same. So what I did was I would just manually agitate the water every about 30 minutes or so. And I kept a little thermometer because the temperature would get too hot. So if I was sous-viding a piece of short rib at 140 degrees, I would have to add ice every 30 minutes. Sorry, was this in your dorm room also? This was in my dorm room. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. So I had a very cheap vacuum sealer and a countertop electric deep fryer that was my sous-vide machine.

7:29And then before I knew it, I started making beef noodle soup because that was sort of the nostalgia ingredient. I could not find a good bowl of beef noodle soup. so I was making it and then anybody who cooks soup knows that the bigger the batch the better it tastes so I bought this like 15 quart stock pot my roommate was like dude are you feeding America? I was like no you don't get it this is going to taste so much better it was really good but I had so much left over every single time I made it so I looked at my sous vide bag I was like I'll just you know store it in these bags and then the next step was I started cutting the braised beef, portioning them with the beef soup inside of these sous vide bags.

8:15So every time I would just freeze those and every time within five minutes of reheating, I have very fresh beef soup. And then I was like, I might as well just portion some noodles too. So I portioned noodles, put it in sous vide bags and then essentially made like a very sandbagged meal kit of beef noodle soup. And I started selling them at NYU and all these Chinese kids, I was selling them on WeChat. All these Chinese kids loved it because it was the best hangover food. It was very cheap. You could whip it up together in five minutes. And I called that scallion foods. So that was my first startup out of my dorm.

8:56I just have to say, like maybe seven years later during the pandemic, you sold beef noodle soup kits. Exactly. So that was a no-brainer sort of pivot. Back to your roots. Exactly. Wow. And the infrastructure is so simple, right? Like anybody can pull it off, except it wasn't very legal. We'll get to that later. Yeah. And then so I was doing scallion foods after college. I was like, I was naive, innocent, and stupid. So I actually rejected a full-time offer from Momofuku to do operations in their office. And I was like, I'm going to make this thing work. I rented a very small desk in a co-working space in Union Square for, I think it was like 300 bucks a month.

9:47And then I leased a standing fridge that was like one of those reach-in beverage fridges. and what I would do was I would wake up at 4 in the morning I would go to Food Bazaar in Queens Sunnyside, Long Island City whatever you want to call it I would purchase I would go home I would cook all my food I would package it and I would take an Uber to the office and I would store all the food in the fridge and I would look at my orders of the day and then I would pack my bag go to the subway and then get out of a station take the city bike and then sort of deliver within those regions and then take the subway again to the next region of orders and then deliver, deliver.

10:33So that was scallion foods. And that was my life for about six months. And then I had a freak accident where I tore my ACL. So I could not stand, let alone do deliveries or cook. And while I was bedridden, didn't have health insurance, didn't want to admit to my parents that I was sort of like struggling. So I was kind of just at home, very, very dejected and hopeless. And I get a message from an acquaintance from college who had had the food, but, you know, we didn't really hang out like that. He hit me up because he had an idea of opening a Chinese style noodle restaurant. and he had no idea that i was hurt so i took the meeting i thought it was oh it's pretty interesting he did like he did very preliminary numbers and now looking back those were very very optimistic numbers let's just say but i i signed on i got sweat equity and um again faked it till i made it well didn't really make it um the restaurant's called the tang we opened in 2016 and I didn't even know what a low boy was I didn't know what a court was I didn't know anything but I knew that I like to cook and I knew that I could outwork everybody so I was spending 16 to 18 hours every single day at the Tang just learning because the people every single person we hired in the kitchen had more experience than me so I was absolutely just the biggest rookie who was calling the shots.

12:16Really stupid. But I feel so tenderly towards you, even the way that you were planes, trains, and automobiling your way around. You could not come up with a more convoluted way to deliver food than what you just described to me, probably. And I was also very fortunate because City Bike launched that year. So if not for City Bike, I wouldn't have had the resources to deliver to so many pockets of New York within a set time frame. This episode is brought to you by Aura Frames. If you're one of those last-minute shoppers, you might know the feeling. Ideas are running low, and the clock is ticking.

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14:08Terms and conditions apply. Hi there, it's Matt, co-host of the show. We are currently running a This Is Taste listener survey, and we'd love to hear from you. Do you have a guest request? A restaurant you wish we'd visit to talk about on Three Things? What about a lesser-known cookbook author who deserves a spot in our studio chair? You can let us know by clicking the link in our show notes to complete the survey. It will only take a couple minutes, I swear, and will help us continue to make the best show possible. That's the This Is Taste listener survey link in our show notes. So then after the Tang, that's when you started working on opening 886.

14:47So the Tang, this weird thing happened where as we were open for like almost a year, I found myself wanting to cook Taiwanese food more and more. The things, the specials we put out was more and more Taiwan. on and I found myself questioning why I don't understand my own food more and the more I questioned the more I researched the more I researched the more I realized that I'm I'm not even scratching the surface like the surface I don't even see the surface and so it it wasn't a sense of guilt it was very much a sense of curiosity and maybe a little guilt um I felt like I needed to understand myself and my food more, my people's food.

15:35And so I sold my shares at the Tang and opened 886 with Andy. Wow. So we're about to talk a lot about Taiwanese food. And I'm wondering if you could maybe give some like characteristics or like what you would say would be the hallmarks of Taiwanese cuisine. Big question. Oh, man. You know what? I'm going to plug the book now. That's why my upcoming cookbook next year is called Taiwanese Question Mark. Because you know what? I've been cooking Taiwanese food for seven, almost 10 years now. I have no idea. I have no idea how to answer that question. And I've not spoken to a single person who can give me a straight, direct and confident answer to that question.

16:18Yeah. But maybe that's the beauty of it, right? Because Taiwanese food, like if you're slightly familiar, it's an amalgamation of so many different cultures, right? Not to be corny, because that's what sort of all cuisine is. But Taiwan, our culture is so young, but our culture is so rich. And our culture is very rooted in, obviously, the Chinese influence, but also a little bit of the Japanese influence and also a lot of the indigenous influence. but it all comes in waves and it depends on what your background is right you could be haka and you could grow up eating almost strictly haka food in taiwan you could my parents are my grandparents all fled from china so they're part of that kmt post chinese civil war crowd i grew up eating mostly like chinese food but all of that is can be folded into the the general and bigger macro diaspora Taiwanese cuisine yeah I think it is so interesting and you know listeners of the podcast know this and you know this that my girlfriend is Taiwanese and that I went with her to Taiwan for a month and when I was getting ready to go on the trip I really wanted to understand more about the history of Taiwan and I got Clarissa Wei's book made in Taiwan and I think it was such a good example of the way that the Taiwanese cuisine is rooted in the history that shaped it.

17:44And like, obviously, all cuisine comes from like, what food do you have available to you? Like, what are the culinary techniques that people know to do things with this food? But even like turkey rice, for example, which Shirley kept on saying turkey rice is such a thing to get in Tainan, where her family is. Reading the book, I learned that like the U.S. sent over fertilized turkey eggs to Taiwan, like after Taiwan was kind of trying to form their own democracy and people hatched the turkey eggs and that's why turkey is an ingredient you know from the united states that is really common in taiwan and i think that's just one example of all of these kinds of like histories and pathways that kind of come into play yeah uh i mean after all my time sort of diving deep into taiwanese cuisine i think i've still like barely scratched the surface um my favorite example is the short grain rice example.

18:35Taiwanese people before the Japanese occupation was, well, Taiwan's demographic was mostly Southern Chinese, Southern Han Chinese, where the grain preference was long grain rice, the indica rice, like jasmine, basmati, most likely jasmine. And then the Japanese people came, they were like, the fuck is this rice? They prefer the short grain plump, the texture cue. and so they sent Ikechi Iso, the Japanese agriculture scientist, and he developed a short grain rice that grows in the terrain of Taiwan. Like Taiwan's subtropical terrain is extraordinarily harsh on rice grains. And so that's just another example.

19:19And now when you go to Taiwan, I would say at least 90 % of the time you order rice, it's going to be short grain rice. I think I only had short grain rice the whole time I was there. Exactly, right? But that development was within 50 years. Yeah. Or even like Tainan is where the sugar production was happening for the Japanese, right? And people say that that region of food is sweeter. Yeah. There are so many different urban legends and tales. But my favorite one is that Tainan's food is sweeter is because sugar used to be scarce. Even though Tainan was the main sort of manufacturing site of sugar, but it was mostly for exports to Japan.

20:02So sugar for the locals is actually scarce. And so if you could get access to sugar, that meant you're rich. And so when you invite guests to your home to eat, you would just make everything super sweet to flex. And so that kind of took on a life of its own. Yeah, there are endless stories. And it's so fascinating to hear about those now. Yeah. And Tainan breakfast or breakfast in Taiwan, actually, I think is a very clear example of how diverse Taiwanese food is and how thankless of a job trying to define it is. Right. Right. We have the most famous Taiwanese breakfast, the Shaobing, which is mainland Chinese.

20:44Right. It's it started actually, well, because the American government was subsidizing flour. And then the Taiwanese government was like, actually subsidize us wheat so we can have a whole flour milling industry. The Chinese who fled China, came to Taiwan, started making yu tiao and shiobing and scallion pancakes, food from their hometown. And that became a Taiwanese breakfast. But in Tainan, right, you have the milkfish broth. That's also a very, very much a staple of the Taiwanese cuisine. You also have the beef broth. It's so interesting that Tainan's breakfast is so brothy. Yeah, and the beef soup is like, you know, there's a lot of beef production happening there, right?

21:25So it's the freshest beef that's like basically raw and you put it in the broth and then it gets gently cooked. Yeah, it's pre-rigamortis beef. And outside of Chaoshan Canton, I don't know another place that does this, like Tainan, right? The slaughterhouse is 30 minutes from the city. So they slaughter at 2 in the morning. It'd be on a plate by 7 in the morning. And when you touch the beef, it's like Jell-O. It's like actual Jell-O. And I don't know the science behind this, but when they pour hot broth onto the raw slices of beef, the stock does not cloud up. Something about the protein, yada, yada, yada, I don't know.

22:03But there is no cloudiness. It doesn't murk up the broth. The broth is still clear. As compared if you eat pho in New York, right? The raw slices of beef, the moment the broth touches it, it clouds up the broth. Very interesting. That's so interesting. And you just spent like basically a month going around Taiwan, taking photos with Alex Lau and doing your research with Elise Inamine. And I'm so curious what it was like to be traveling with them. And if you found yourself doing this kind of, you know, explanation of Taiwanese food to people who aren't as familiar with it, if it kind of gave you any like new insights or perspective.

22:41Yeah, it felt like a month, but it was nine days. Was it nine days? It was nine days. Okay, I felt like it was a month because I was consuming all of the content and it looked like you guys were eating so much food. We ate enough for a month for sure. I don't recommend doing that, but it was just an enormous amount of fun. Some of the conversations we had is very not PC and I will not repeat it here. but when you get three people who love food and are willing to travel for food and i think more importantly people who are culturally curious that's the most important part i felt incredibly at ease bringing elise and alex around because i knew that the small nerdy stuff that i found interesting, they would also find interesting.

23:34And I knew that the very small, minute details that maybe other people don't care for, they would care for. It was so much fun. I've never done any sort of travel like that before. Yeah, maybe. Where did you go? So we spent six days in Taipei, a day and a night in Tainan, and a whole day in Taichung slash Zhanghua. North, south and middle basically yeah um we we had a whole shot list of places that essentially got got thrown over got torn apart and rebuilt together we were like uh today let's not go here let's go maybe instead of three cup chicken we can just shoot three cup chicken in in the studio let's go to this obscure market let's go to this weird afternoon tea place where it's in a wet market and you can just purchase different ready-to-eat items from this wet market and there's a centralized sort of hub that sells alcohol and you can you can eat your food there and then they serve you alcohol it's a communal experience that was a lot of fun uh we got to meet some very very cool people who are kind of at the forefront of revolutionizing what Taiwanese food is in Taiwan.

24:53And that's, I think, underappreciated. Because when we live abroad, and we think of Taiwanese food, it's very often those few dishes, and you think it's a very set construct. And it's almost like you have to have these dishes, you have to have beef noodle soup, luerou飯, boba, popcorn chicken, etc, etc. But Taiwanese food in Taiwan is so much more than just that. And obviously, Taiwan has access to way better ingredients, a lot of culture that's much more rich, and they can afford to do that. But every time I go back, I'm just learning so much from the people executing hospitality and F &B in general in Taiwan.

25:31Could you maybe tease one or two people that you met with that you really enjoyed? So his name is Liu Yuchiao. He owns and operates this sticky rice place in Tainan called 懒夫米糕 His story is incredible. He grew up in Tainan, raised by his grandmother, which is very often seen. Because the parents have to work, the grandparents are often left to take care of the grandkids. So he has this incredible connection with his grandma. And his grandma would always make this sticky rice dish. In Tainan, it's called 米糕 So it's long-grain sticky rice, has to be old sticky rice, so like sort of aged. You saute sesame oil with a lot of ginger.

26:19You slow heat to extract the ginger until the ginger is dry. Slow heat because the sesame oil can burn and become bitter anytime. And then you add in the sticky rice to, the steamed sticky rice to saute. And then you fold in chunks of cooked pork cartilage. And then you season it with white pepper and salt and a generous helping of Taiwanese cooking wine. That dish is his signature. And to me, that dish is sort of, it's death row meal material, for me at least. It's a combination of crunchy from the cartilage, gelatinous from the pork stock that he uses, and the bounciness of the sticky rice. And as well as, you know, white pepper and a little bit of shallot flavor.

27:06It's so simple, but it's the most delicious thing. and it's incredibly labor intensive. So you don't see it a lot in Taipei because labor is expensive. He learned how to make that dish from his grandma and after he graduated college, he moved to Taipei to work for a little bit like all, you know, studious students. They want to make the big bucks in the big city. He hated corporate life, moved back to Tainan, brushed up his skills with his grandma, learned how to make it again and straight up just bought a steam basket, yanked it onto the backside of his bicycle, and then he would just ride around Tainan selling this meat gal.

27:49And this coincided with the, I think that was during the Twitter era. So he would just tweet his location and swarms of people would come to eat his meat gal. And then now he has a brick and mortar that is right next to a temple. It's about, you know, I would say 50 square feet, super small, but a gorgeous stall. And they do one thing, and that's the meat gal. And they do incredibly well. Wow, I have to go eat this. It sounds so good. And I feel like it really speaks to how great food is all over Taiwan. But I think Tainan, especially a lot of people say, is like the best place to eat in the country.

28:26Yes, I wish I was a little bit more well-traveled in Taiwan. because every time I go back, I have family duties and my exploration sort of quota is very much cut short. So I find myself going to Taipei and then Tainan the most. And Tainan, I compare it to Portland, Maine because doing business in New York is incredibly expensive. And I don't know if you guys feel this, but my personal observation is that Because doing business is so expensive, people are becoming less and less adventurous and courageous and bold. Because at the end of the day, you have to recoup your investments. So when the pressure is high, you put out products that you know people will buy.

29:17And if everybody is doing it at the same time, it becomes very boring. I think now we're seeing a lot more adventurous establishments and it's a great trend but I think for the last couple of years I personally hot take felt like New York City restaurants were stalling a little bit and and I don't blame the restaurateurs people are incredibly creative here and very scrappy but the macro environment was just tough but a lot of chefs who have great training and exceptional talent go up to portland maine and and open because it's a lot cheaper yeah right for the same amount of money you can have 10 times the space and you have access to the almost the same ingredients if not better in terms of seafood yeah yeah um yes it is a lot more seasonal but you can execute your vision without compromising and that's the that's the for Tainan.

30:12Tainan's cost of living is cheap. Cost of doing business is also cheap. So a lot of people from Taipei, actually people who trained in Taipei, or even in one case, there's this bar called Swallow. They trained in Singapore. Yeah. And they moved back to Taiwan, to Tainan, to open this bar that is, in my opinion, world class. Yeah. I went to Swallow when I was there. I really liked it. There's a lot of like really great bars and coffee shops, especially in Tainan. Like I think I don't mean to be like casting stones on your hometown, but I thought the bars in Taipei were like not really that good, honestly, or maybe the ones that I went to.

30:54And then in Tainan, I also went to Hera. I don't know if you went there. No, no. Incredible cocktails, all made with ingredients. Everything is grown on the islands that they use there. And they do just like really ambitious, delicious drinks. Also like a small menu of Basque cheesecake. Which I thought was fun. Taiwanese people love bass cheesecake and flan. Yeah. Those are the two things. Jiggly, creamy. Yeah. No, I completely agree with you. And again, I don't fault the operators in Taipei. There's an enormous financial pressure to perform. The turnover rate in terms of retail restaurants in Taipei is crazy.

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31:35It's so incredibly competitive. And people are so incredibly picky. And I, for one, will, I'm going to say it now, I will never open in Taiwan because I simply am not good enough. That is the truth. No, no, no. It's because if you think about Taiwan as a demographic and if you're operating a business, you're trying to please one demographic and you have one shot to please them, right? The Taiwanese people have a very particular type of taste. They like a particular type of thing. And if you don't nail it, The very first try, you're fucked. But in New York, we have so many different types of people, it's a lot more forgiving, right?

32:18So yes, it is very competitive still in New York, but doing a concept in Taiwan is way harder, I think. Yeah, that's really interesting. I feel like to bring the conversation back to New York a bit, when you opened 886, it felt like there wasn't necessarily a ton of options for people to get Taiwanese food here in the city. And now I think there have been a lot more openings. Like, how do you feel about the current state of Taiwanese food in New York? I think it's great. I think we're we're we are moving forward and that's all we can ask for. Right. When we opened 886, there was us, Winsan and Whole Foods, at least within my radar.

33:01In terms of newer Taiwanese restaurants, Taiwan Bear House was around, obviously, Taiwan Pork Chop. What's that one in Queens, like Taiwanese Gourmet? Taiwanese Gourmet in Elmhurst. There was also Mama Lee's in Bayside. And those guys are a little bit more old guard. Right. And we need those guys. They sort of paved the road for us. and but when we opened 886 we were among the only new guards right Taiwanese food the reason why we opened up 886 was because we were frustrated there is no place for people to drink and eat Taiwanese food it's as simple as that right and I my partner Andy and I just we were so frustrated that we were giving all our money to the Japanese and Koreans and so like we need a Taiwanese watering hole.

33:52And so we did it. And looking back now, we went from only having, you know, more like traditional and homestyle Taiwanese cooking to people eating, you know, fly's head, sha-cha beef, luffa and clams with a cocktail in their hand. and and as a guy who born and raised in Taiwan and and really feels this sort of debt to the Taiwanese identity I feel like this past seven years we've we've achieved something and more and more people know about Taiwanese food nobody knows what it is yet but more and more people more and more people know about it and if if we can keep pushing this envelope then we're happy.

34:40Like I'm very much in the camp of we need more Taiwanese restaurants. Yeah. In all shapes and forms. And is that a similar reason why you wanted to make the cookbook that you want to be kind of showcasing more of Taiwanese food? Yeah. Yeah. Selfishly, self-ishly, I wanted to do the book because I feel like it's a stamp in time for me. But also on a more macro scale, it does talk about Taiwanese food as a whole. Maybe not globally, but at least in New York and Taiwan. The two places I spent the most time. And I think if this book can encourage more young people, young Taiwanese or even Asian Americans to think about their own identity in a different lens or in different approach, then mission accomplished, right?

35:34Yeah. And I have to say, you know, I worked with Elise at Bon Appetit. We are always in touch. And I feel like she's been trying to write this book with you for like seven years at this point. So I'm really glad that it's in motion and that it's happening. Yeah. Elise is the best. We worked together on a hot pot story at Bonap. Yeah. And I had never encountered a person that can take my shitty English and stupid sense of humor, wrap it up and spin it into something so elegant without losing that edge. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. It's a really sweet partnership. And I guess on the topic of partnership, I wanted to ask you about your beautiful romance friendship with Lucas.

36:14And specifically, my co-host Matt wanted me to ask you about the Vice Chef's Night Out episode that you guys did back in the day because he considers that to be the highest form of the genre. Well, thank you, Matt. I will say Lucas and I, we are very oddly similar. We were born in the same year. Both grew up abroad. So he grew up in Hong Kong. I grew up in Taiwan. We both played the cello growing up. And our first startups were both named after an allium. So mine was scallion foods. His was chive something. No way. Yeah, really stupid. Super corny. Except he went to an Ivy League school and is a lot smarter than I am.

36:56And he uses big words while I use fuck shit and asshole. He uses those too, though. And I think it's very serendipitous because he I met Lucas for the first time in person at 886 and we bonded over tomato and eggs. But. It's difficult to find a person in the same in the restaurant industry that shares that same third culture background. and um and most of the time that we're we're hanging out we're just talking a lot of trash and we have so much trash to talk and we find so much pleasure like um productive trash yeah um but when we received that text from our friend ian shrewd who was the producer at munchies back then asking us if we wanted to do a shy boys chef's night out it was a dream come true it was absolutely a dream come true moment um because we grew up on that that series yeah like that series was one of the biggest reasons why we wanted to to become chefs and so to be able to partake in that in itself was already great but but we sat down we were like we need to make this the best chef's night out ever um and and i feel like that video is is is so good because it is very organic all the people that was that were in the video we would just hang out in that fashion after work um not healthy we have since reduced the amount of times we do that per month yeah um and i will say that video probably shaved four months off of my life expectancy.

38:51But thank you, Matt. That was, I'm glad I did it. I will not do it again. I think that's the right answer. You know, like if you can't top something, why even try? Yeah, that's Mount Rushmore for me. It really is. And I think it's really sweet to see how you guys have graduated into doing hosted videos together for Bon Appetit. And I think the two of you both are so knowledgeable about the science behind cooking. You guys are, you know, speaking in multiple languages, like with the chefs, depending on where you are. Like you have so much respect for the art form of cooking. And I think it's like really special to get to watch those videos as well.

39:27So I wanted to compliment you. Thank you. Thank you. If only they'll hit me up for more. Yeah. If Vanna Petit is listening, commission a second series. You did some in Taiwan together, actually. Yes, we did four episodes. All four came out. we shot those in two days well four episodes in two days it was a lot but it was so much fun and you get to decide what the videos would be yes so i actually picked all the places um obviously the production team had input um but frankly that was another dream come true i've always wanted to bring a big american media company to taiwan and showcase taiwanese food in taiwan through my lens.

40:09You did a beef noodle soup place. What were the other three? We did the beef noodle soup place that we highlighted that place because they're changing the game on late night beef noodle soup. Yeah. When I was growing up, beef noodle soup, if you could eat it late night, like post 11 p.m., it would be like some watered down bullshit. But that place does it from scratch the right way, heavily seasoned for the drunken crowd, but still absolutely delicious. It doesn't matter. We were getting flamed in the comment section. That's not the best beef noodle soup. No shit. Everybody's best beef noodle soup differs.

40:46But for me, at least, they're changing the game culturally. What's the name? It's called Taipei Beef Noodles, I think. Okay. Likely story. Yeah. Their Chinese name is Niu Rou Mian Ji Tang, which is beef noodle soup, chicken soup. Yeah. Yeah. That's Shirley's favorite beef noodle soup place in Taipei. So you have one person on your side. There we go. Yeah. And two in the morning, a bowl of beef noodle soup with beef cheeks and short rib. I mean, 17-year-old me would have literally be through the roof with that. The second place we went to is Fuhang Soy Milk, which is very popular. Obviously, everybody knows about it.

41:26It's in every single guidebook. It's like the breakfast spot. It is the breakfast spot. They're so busy. and my train of thought was I wanted to showcase why they're so busy because people know it's busy it's touristy people it's filled with like American tourists Japanese tourists Korean tourists but they're also busy because they're good but they're also good because they're busy right it's it think of it as a pastry shop if you're getting your croissant like five minutes out of the oven every single time it's going to be very good five minutes out of the oven maybe let it cool down a little bit more but you get my analogy um and so with that specific genre of Taiwanese breakfast freshness is key like for example we highlighted this um I call it sourdough saobing but it's technically not a sourdough but it really is it's laomian which is old mother dough it's a mother dough saobing that has the texture of a cross between a bagel donut and and and a sourdough loaf.

42:30Yeah. And they brush a layer of molasses on top to have the sesame stick. So it's sweet. It's crispy on the outside. It's a little bit dense. It's still fluffy. And then you put an egg inside and then you dip that into soy milk. That texture is heavenly, but it lasts for 10 minutes. Like literally lasts for 10 minutes. You can reheat it all you want. It will not be the same. And we wanted to sort of showcase why it was so popular. And that sort of dichotomy of it's good because it's busy, it's also busy because it's good. And the third place we went to is Jilong Night Market. This one, BA insisted to have a night market.

43:10Yeah. And I get it, right? Night markets, Taiwan, Taiwan equals night markets. It's like Singapore and hawker stalls. But out of all the stalls, the one place that I was adamant about going to was the pork knuckle place. It's called Jijia Zhuzhiao. I think it highlights the Taiwanese style of cooking pork because pork is so abundant and Taiwan doesn't export any of that protein. So all the pork slaughtered on the island is consumed within. That means everything is ultra fresh. It hasn't had time to sit on the supermarket counter and oxidize and develop all this gamey flavor. So all you need to do is sort of cook it in water with a little bit of seasoning.

43:55That's it. You get to enjoy pork at its purest form and all its gelatinous, gooey goodness. I feel like Rauhe is the night market that everyone talks about going to. So you did choose one that was off the beaten path a little. Yeah. It is a trek. A lot of locals. I've actually never been to Rauhe. I haven't been either, but I want to go because of the clay pot. Pepper bun. That is also a very good example of they're good because they're busy and they're busy because they're good. Right. Imagine having a pepper bun that's been sitting out for like 20 minutes. Yeah. So if it's super fresh out of the oven, too hot for you to put in your mouth first.

44:33As it cools down, the crust gets crispier. And then the moment you can bite into it is the perfect temperature. And the last place we went to was in Yilan. So a small trick as well. Taiwanese style kiln roasted chicken. So I also wanted to showcase Taiwanese chicken. It's very different than what you can get in the States. And the roasting method is, as Lucas would say, very ancestral, which just means old. It's a very old technique. And that was the first time I saw them cooking it. And I was in genuine disbelief in the skill and the craftsmanship. Yeah, that was fun. That was really fun. I want to do more.

45:17Well, I think after we speak it into existence, maybe that will happen. Maybe some of those details make their way into the book. From February 20th to March 7th, dive into Canada's biggest culinary festival, Montreal en Lumière. An exclusive partnership with the McCord Stewart Museum and its exhibition, On the Menu Montreal, a restaurant story. The 2026 festival invites food lovers on a flavorful journey through time. Montreal's top restaurateurs will reimagine 65 years of the city's iconic astronomy, crafting inventive, nostalgia-inspired dishes with a modern twist. Prepare your palate. World-renowned chefs, including several Michelin-starred talents, will team up with over 80 of Montreal's finest local chefs to create unforgettable, one-of-a-kind menus.

46:05The full program is available at MontrealOnLumiere.com, presented by Lotto Quebec in collaboration with National Bank. Today's episode is brought to you by ButcherBox. As a food writer, I can be a little skeptical about subscription cooking boxes you hear about on podcasts. There's big talk about cooking simplicity, but you're usually left with disappointment after smashing that promo code. Now, Clayton, have you ever tried one of those subscription boxes? Yeah, Matt. My friend gave me a code for that one that has all the chopped vegetables in little baggies. I felt like a drug dealer trying to cook dinner.

46:38Yeah, man, I have so been there. ButcherBox is a true exception. I was sent a box of premium beef and pork and was blown away by the quality and variety. There was 100 % grass-fed pasteurized ribeye, tri-tip, and ground sirloin for my favorite at-home smash burger recipe. George Motes, you better watch your back. For pork, they sent me a beautiful center-cut pork loin for slow roasting. I was super impressed, and I haven't even talked about the ribs, which I cooked in my Instant Pot. There was a rub of salt, white pepper, and togarashi, and I pressure cooked with water and apple cider vinegar.

47:16It was incredible. These ButcherBox ribs are amazing. For nearly a decade, ButcherBox has led the industry with meat and seafood that's antibiotic-free. As an exclusive offer, our listeners can get free protein in every box for a year, plus$20 off your first box when you go to butcherbox.com slash taste. Visit butcherbox.com slash taste to get this limited time offer and free shipping always. That's butcherbox.com slash taste. Don't forget to use our link so they know we sent you. To close today, I want to play a rapid fire game with you. So I'm going to make you play some favorites. Okay. Okay.

47:57Your favorite cookbook. Ooh. Right now. I just picked up Bruto and that's good. I keep going back to Momofuku cookbook. I am biased, but I feel like when I came to New York, that was Momofuku at its most dominant phase. Yeah. And they were unstoppable. And it has shaped how I cook and how I look at food. And so I keep going back to that cookbook. If not for the story, then for the sous vide churrit recipe. Your go-to bodega snack. Oh, I like my chopped cheese with extra pickled jalapeno and five dashes of hot sauce. Yeah. Your favorite ice cream flavor? Van Leeuwen's Sicilian pistachio. Every time.

48:47The best hangover food? Pho. The first thing that you want to eat when you're back in Taiwan? Um, sautéed, uh, it's called longshu菜, dragon beard, uh, veggie. It's, it's the, it's, it's, it's the stem of chayote. It's chayote stems. Yeah. Um, I don't know why we can't find these in New York. I see chayotes everywhere. What happens to the stems? Gotta find out. Yeah. It's, that's my favorite vegetable. So mildly grassy. I love that. It's sautéed. Sautéed with garlic. Yeah. Your favorite night market in Taiwan? Oh, man. It's going to have to be Jilong. Yeah. Still Jilong. Your favorite spot for Taiwanese food in New York that you do not own?

49:36Whole Foods. Always. Your favorite New York City grocery store? If I could only shop at one place, it would be the Great Wall Supermarket in Elmhurst. There's parking. The vegetables are always fresh. They have the cuts of meat I want. And a very vast seafood selection, as well as spice and sauces. Okay, I've never been to this one, but I love a grocery store, so I have to go. Oh, you got to go here. And it's never crowded. Wow. Yeah. Your favorite New York City bar? Josie's. That's where we did the Long Island Iced Tea for the chef's night out. Uh-huh. Yeah. For me, it's about comfort. Yeah. Yeah.

50:15It's a classic. Yeah, it's classic. No frills. I can get a pint of Guinness, or I can do the Long Island Iced Tea. And for me, their bar food program is top-notch. It's simply executed, but very good. Your favorite special occasion restaurant in New York? Wifey and I love Juwa. We go there for every anniversary. Again, execution is simple. Fantastic ingredients. Highly technical and lovely atmosphere and fantastic service. Okay, finally, a fictional food scene, like from a book or a movie, something made up that you wish you could magically eat in real life. Oh, Spirited Away. Yeah, which one?

50:57Yeah, when the dad and mom were turning into pigs. Yeah. That entire spread. You would turn into a pig. Yeah, I would gladly turn into a pig if I get to eat that. Well, Eric, thank you so much for coming on the show. This has been truly so much fun. Thanks for having me. Liz Dunn, great catching up with you. How are you? I am great. How are you, Matt? I'm better because I read your piece in New York Times this weekend. I was sipping a coffee and I'm like, this story is telling the story that I've had in my mind for a long time since I found out about David Protein and this whole kind of brouhaha around EPGs.

51:39We're going to get into all of that. But Liz, tell us before you started reporting on David Protein and the pieces titled The Protein Bar Arms Race, what was your relationship with protein bars? I would call my relationship with protein bars very casual. I am not a big protein bar consumer. The one bar that I have gone back to time and time again in my life, and I'm not even sure it would be considered a protein bar in today's world, but it's the Luna Bar. Do you remember Luna bars? Like, they taste great. Again, I think in the past, they would have been considered a protein bar. Now you have to hit, like, kind of an insane protein threshold to be classified as a protein bar.

52:23But that's the one bar. And I still love it. I mean, it's delicious. It's a great on-the-go snack. Luna was always coded feminine, in a way. It was. Yeah, yeah. And one of the things that the David Barr founders told me about their branding process was that they felt that you could code a product masculine and women would still buy it. Like think about perfume and cologne, like men and women will wear cologne. You don't get a lot of men wearing perfume. And so going the like the female coded route was just cutting off half of your audience in a way that going the male coded route was not, which I thought was pretty interesting.

52:59Interesting. I think there's a lot of psychology in that and it makes a lot of sense. For the record, I crushed a few lunas in my life. I never felt the hesitation to reach for a luna. Just saying. Well, you're an evolved man. I'm an evolved man. I can definitely reach across the aisle. Okay. Well, the focus of this piece is David Protein and how the founders, they used really savvy marketing, a very sharp package design, and truly some macro wizardry to create this very singular protein bar. Tell us a little bit about it. Yeah, so the David Bar hit the market last September, and its big claim was that it has a better protein-to-calorie ratio than anything else on the market, bar-wise.

53:45So it's 28 grams of protein, 150 calories, and zero sugar, which caused quite a sensation on TikTok. It's also very distinctive-looking. It comes in this gold wrapper and the name David, while many people think that it must have just been like founded by a guy named David, it actually refers to the famous Michelangelo Renaissance sculpture, the David, like the archetype of male beauty. Yeah. Yeah. And we talked about Eliza and I on three things sometime earlier this year when I finally bought a bar and my wife Tamar bought two boxes. It just like rolled in and I think she was on reels and that's what happens.

54:33and we talked about it. We talked about the flavor profile and these incredible macros that is getting everybody excited. But describe, I just want to know from your point of view, the flavor profile and what's happening when you're enjoying one of these bars or maybe not enjoying it. It comes in eight flavors. I'm not going to remember all of them, but I think that the flagship one, like their first one, was chocolate chip cookie dough. There's cake batter, red velvet cake. all of the sort of sweet indulgent flavors that people tend to go to when they're doing protein bars. I will say from a texture perspective, I think it's pretty unique in that it is quite moist.

55:16Protein bars can be really dry. Yeah, exactly. Chalky, dry. It also has these little chunks of like chocolate chunks and little crispies and things in it to sort of break up the texture, which is very intentional. The David people told me that they were trying to create a bar that led you to want to consume more. And one trick for that is to have there be variation. If it's all really uniform, you're less likely to eat as much. From a flavor perspective, I have to say, this is not a huge departure from... If you're a person who eats Quest or Bear Bells bars, my feeling is the flavor is pretty similar.

55:56It sounds like you've eaten a David bar or two in your life. So tell me if you agree with that. I think you're on to something. And I love that your reporting reveals their thought process and the development of the product. Because when I first had it, and as I continue to have it, I actually went to the Fancy Food Show a couple weeks ago and went to the David's booth and talked to their head of marketing about my thoughts. Here's what they are. Puffed rice is great. A lot of salt. They're like really, really upping the salt for that kind of like craving and that like you're just going to keep eating it.

56:29I as I told them at the booth and I was being honest because they asked, I was like, I think it has a really bad aftertaste. I think the finish, so to speak, is really undesirable. But I will continue to eat David bars because of those macros, because it is a real magic trick. Yeah, I mean, I think for them, their goal is to minimize the unpalatable aspects of protein as much as possible. but like the macros are the North Star. So they don't care as much about making it delicious as they care about making it almost as much protein as cod. Which they ended up releasing, I think after you found the story.

57:05Yeah, that's a whole other thing. That's a whole other thing. And you can read about that on Snackshot and some other publications. Yeah, to be quick, they released all these great bars, they ate flavors, and then all of a sudden they just dropped some cod on their website. Drop some cod. Yeah, drop some cod. I first read about David on Emily Sundberg's terrific Feed Me Substack, and I think she was on the story early. And I think there was definitely some growing buzz. You end up writing the big piece for the paper of record. What drove you personally to report on David and some of the fallout that we'll talk about with the EPG ingredient and kind of the buying of the major company that makes it?

57:46Yeah. So I also write a sub stack. It's called Consumed. And for that publication, a lot of what we've read, I mean, we've read about all kinds of things related to food, but a lot of it has turned out to be reporting on consumer food products that promise functional nutritional benefits. It seems to be something that is really top of mind for people and people really want to understand better. So David was on my radar really from the very beginning. I mean, I follow Peter Atiyah on the various platforms and probably saw him promoting it first and saw that it was turning into something that really was unlike any other protein bar that I had ever seen on the market in terms of people's enthusiasm for it and just how much it was in the conversation.

58:32Um, what prompted the time story was David's announcement in May of a$75 million funding round that they had just raised, which that's an enormous amount of money for a company that makes protein bars. Like there, there are something like 2000 bars on the market, um, to raise$75 million for your new protein bar company is like a pretty big thing. So that was the moment where I realized this was like more than just sort of a story, like sort of a trend story, a social media story. This was really a business story. Well, let's talk about EPG. It is a very, very important component to hit this golden macro level.

59:12And, you know, it seems like kind of gnarly stuff. I want you to tell us a little bit about what it is exactly. And David's acquisition of the main producer of it was a big part of the story. Yeah. So EPG is a modified plant fat and its claim to fame is that it passes through the digestive system, mostly undigested, mostly unabsorbed, which means that it delivers 92 % fewer calories than regular traditional fat. Those of us of a certain age might remember Olestra. Oh, we certainly do. The Olestra boom of the 90s. I remember a big Super Bowl ad for it. And of course, it's kind of a shitty response in the marketplace.

1:00:01Right. So Olestra was the kind of original low calorie fat and it did not go over very well. Gave people just horrendous digestive side effects. And so it's not on the market anymore. EPG supposedly does not create the same terrible digestive side effects, but it's a similar idea. Just like we have low-calorie sugar substitutes, it's a low-calorie fat substitute. And the patent for it is owned by a company called Epigee. So this fat-like substance, or they call it, I think, a non-nutritive fat, which is a great term, it was developed in a university context in the 1990s. So it's not new. But it really, before David started using it in the bars, it was really not very widely used in the food industry.

1:00:57There were a few different companies that used it. There's a Swedish ice cream, protein ice cream maker called Nix that used it. There are like a few other chocolate companies and things like that. But this was not something that was widely used. Epigee is a pretty small company. um one of the co-founders of the david bar zach raynan knew about it because he ate this low calorie low low fat high protein i think ice cream called nyx that used that used dpg and he thought well this would be kind of great for helping us do what we're trying to do with this protein bar which is reduce the calories and increase the protein um so they used it in the bar which was obviously tremendously popular and successful.

1:01:43Months go by, they're selling, I think, more of this bar than they ever expected to. And they hit a point, I'm guessing, in the early spring, although we didn't talk about the details of the transaction, where they're realizing there is not enough EPG for us to continue to make these bars. It's a patented product. It's created by this one company. we need to do something about this and they end up purchasing epigee the maker of epg with some of this money that they raised in their series a um so as of early may they're the new owners of epigee i mean this was a big story because while there was nix using epg there There were other products in the pipeline and founders who were using EPG in their product launches.

1:02:35And they all of a sudden were faced with the fact that they had no supply. And I mean, when you say they used some of that raise, I mean, EpiG could have been like, give me all the$75 million. I mean, they had an ultimate leverage as a business reporter. Did you get any details about that transaction, about what went down with EpiG? I didn't get too many details because it's this ongoing litigation, which we'll get to in a second. They really didn't want to talk about it in detail. I did talk to some of the other companies that were users of EPG that, well, so I guess I should backtrack and say that David acquires Epigee, right?

1:03:13And then right after the acquisition, they make it very clear that people who are currently using EPG in their products are just out of luck. Like, we need all the EPG. There already is not enough produced by Epigee to meet our needs. So David gets busy investing in Epigee and trying to scale up EPG production. So pretty much immediately after David buys Epigee, three of the companies that use EPG in their products, Own Your Hunger, Lighten Up Foods, and Defiant Foods file suits claiming that David violated federal antitrust laws by creating an artificial monopoly restricting access to EPG. um david obviously immediately immediately shot back with his own court papers denying any wrongdoing but this is yes this is like a huge flare-up tiktok noticed i mean when you when you start to mess with founders and you've got a big big 75 million dollar company against the small guy i can imagine where the sentiment led on tiktok yeah and people on tiktok if i mean as you can tell, I spent a lot of time on TikTok reporting this story, but the TikTok reaction was, you know, a lot of the people who are customers for David are also customers for these other smaller food companies producing products with EPG.

1:04:28And so there was a level of, I guess, anger directed at David for what people saw as, you know, punching down at these companies that use EPG to create these products that people know and love. So where do we stand today with EPG, EPG, David's, you know, rise? I mean, these are a lot of questions, but like they're kind of like where David's is heading. And really, do you feel like this idea of protein maxing that I think this is all around, like that revolves around this idea that you need more protein, where does this all land. Yeah. So on the EPG front, it looks, the early signs are that these other companies are not going to be successful in their lawsuit because when you're a patent holder, you can pretty much decide who you want to sell to and who you don't want to sell to.

1:05:29And I think they're going to have a hard time. I think they're going to have a hard time making a headway with this, making headway with this lawsuit. On the David front, in terms of their particular products, They're actually out of stock on their website in all flavors of the bar because of this EPG shortfall. It seems like you can still get it other places. You can get it on Amazon, but who knows how long that will last. So they're really kind of struggling right now to get production up to speed to be able to fulfill all of their supplier agreements and to restock their website. um and as as you mentioned it seems like as a stopgap they have released cod as a product on their website um which it seems like a viral stunt but peter ray hall who's the co-founder of david was you know he was adamant that it was a real product that they really were going to keep offering um protein maxing in general i think what i would say to that is listen protein is everywhere right now.

1:06:34It's in places we would have never expected it to be, like water and popcorn and ice cream and pasta sauces and stuff like that. It seems unlikely to me that that continues indefinitely. I think there is a bit of a bubble. However, if you look back at the history of protein and how people have regarded it, unlike carbs and fat, which have gone through their various periods of being championed or being vilified. Protein has never had a period historically of being vilified. Protein has never gone through a down cycle, really. And so I think that it's really pretty likely that people continue to view protein as a really essential part of their diet and a big part of their diet.

1:07:21The question is just whether companies offering super protein saturated foods can continue to do that. And like that market can continue to expand. I also will add that as long as GLP-1 drugs are effectively marketed and used and that, you know, that audience grows and grows, I think the protein centric diet will continue to rise because I think like those drugs require nutrient rich, protein rich diets. Yes. And And doctors are definitely telling patients on GLP-1s, you have to be careful about your protein consumption and you really have to seek it out. And so that's a tailwind. I am a little bit skeptical about really what the current impact of that is because there isn't great data out there showing how many people are currently on GLP-1s, but it's not, you know, if it's 4%, that's like the very high end estimate.

1:08:16So while it's, you know, definitely a contributing factor, I don't think we're yet at a place where it's really like a market maker. Yeah, great point, Liz. And I think in Consumed, you write all about this and definitely check out the website and Substack. And I think like as long as the GLP-1s, you know, don't have bad data and bad news around it and perhaps there's some new data about other areas. I mean, you hear about all sorts of things with GLP-1s about cancer prevention. You hear, I mean, there's, it feels like every day. Gambling addiction, I've heard, is something that it's being used to curb.

1:08:51It does sort of seem like a miracle drug. And I think that it's probably only gonna increase, right? Like our use of GLP-1s. You nailed it with the miracle drug. I mean, I think at least with the marketing and branding of it, people are really putting it out there as that, not just as a weight loss drug, but many more things. And it'll be interesting to follow the protein age. And do you have anything else lined up on Consume that we should be looking for? Oh man, we've got, what do we have coming up? when the Maha Commission releases its big report in August on what the Maha Commission is going to do to improve all of our health and reduce chronic diseases.

1:09:31We're going to do a sub-sec live with Marion Nessel. So that, I don't know the exact date because we're all waiting to see when RFK decides to get that report out, but that's going to be a banger. I love that. That's such a great news bag to talk to Marion and just unpack this wild document, as I'm sure it is. I won't take any excuse to talk to Marion. Yeah. Well, hey, Liz, this has been a lot of fun. I hope to have you in the studio. Let's do this again. That would be awesome. Thanks so much for having me, Matt.

1:10:05This is Taste is hosted and produced by Matt Rodbard and me, Eliza Abarbanel. The show is edited by lead producer Clayton Gumbert and supervised by Pat Stango, Director of Media Production and Development at Penguin Random House Thanks to Shalia Harris and the production team at Penguin Random House Theme music by Steve Rydell Logo and guest illustrations by Ellie Skrzat Visit Taste online at tastecooking.com And make sure to subscribe to our newsletter To keep updated on all cool things in the world of taste

From the publisher

Eric Sze is the chef-owner behind the Taiwanese restaurants 886 and Wenwen in New York City. He’s also working on a debut cookbook, Taiwanese?, and he recently returned from a whirlwind trip conducting research and taking photos for the book. Eric is one of our favorite voices in food, and it’s so fun having him in the studio to unpack his culinary career, the tricky task of defining Taiwanese food, operating restaurants in NYC, and more.
Also on the show Matt catches up with journalist Elizabeth Dunn to talk about her terrific story in the New York Times about the protein bar arms race. What is up with the David bar, and the age protein era we are living in? Elizabeth has many thoughts and we had a great time talking esterified propoxylated glycerol. Wild stuff.
Read: The Protein Bar Arms Race
Read: Consumed
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