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Podcast Summary: This Is TASTE - Episode 699: Exciting News From the Land of Sqirl with Jessica Koslow
Podcast Overview
- Title: This Is TASTE
- Hosts: Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard
- Content Focus: Conversations about food, home cooking, culture, and interviews with notable figures in the food industry.
Episode Highlights Guest Introduction
- Jessica Koslow
- Chef and founder of Sqirl, a renowned breakfast and lunch spot in Los Angeles, noted for its creative rice bowls and artisanal jams.
- Discusses her culinary evolution, the launch of dinner service at Sqirl, and her jam business.
Early Career and Jam Business
- Jessica reflects on her journey in the culinary world, including her time at Bacchanalia in Atlanta.
- Jam Business:
- Began while working at Abattoir; motivated by her mentor, Anne Quatrano.
- Focus on artisan jams that correlate with seasonal produce.
Sqirl's Evolution
- Sqirl is characterized as a "contemporary fine dining" experience during the day with casual counter service, transitioning to table service at night.
- Jessica discusses her signature sorrel pesto rice bowl and the techniques behind it, emphasizing the importance of fresh, high-quality ingredients.
The Launch of Dinner Service
- Jessica reveals plans for launching a dinner service at Sqirl, suggesting an exciting evolution of the restaurant’s offerings.
- The menu will feature a bistro-style approach, drawing inspiration from a blend of cultural backgrounds and nostalgia.
Challenges and Growth
- Reflects on the hardship of the pandemic and a significant incident involving mold in the jam, which became publicized and generated memes.
- Discussed the resilience and growth that emerged from challenging experiences, including their recent achievements in scaling their jam production.
Guest Interview
Tigist Reda
- Tigist Reda is the chef-owner of Demera, an Ethiopian restaurant in Chicago.
- Completed the Resy Questionnaire, revealing favorite dishes, culinary inspirations, and insights into the restaurant industry.
Key Discussions Culinary Influence and Trends
- Importance of evolving culinary trends and embracing creativity in the kitchen.
- How Sqirl has inspired broader trends in breakfast and brunch culture across the nation.
Community and Collaboration
- The significance of building community connections with local farmers and collaborating with them to create unique culinary experiences.
Resilience in the Restaurant Industry
- Conversation around the challenges faced by female restaurateurs.
- The importance of mentorship, community support, and positive work culture in navigating the restaurant business challenges.
Key Takeaways
- Innovation: Jessica Koslow’s journey exemplifies innovation in the culinary space, balancing culinary traditions with contemporary trends.
- Resilience: The discussion emphasizes the importance of resilience in the face of challenges, especially in the volatile restaurant industry.
- Culinary Community: Building and maintaining relationships with others in the industry, as well as with local farmers, plays a crucial role in sustainability and creativity in food.
Conclusion This episode of This Is TASTE provides an insightful look into the evolution of Sqirl, the challenges of running a restaurant, and the importance of community in the culinary world. With engaging discussions from both Jessica Koslow and Tigist Reda, listeners gain valuable perspectives on innovation, resilience, and the art of cooking.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. Resi is a digital platform that connects restaurants to restaurant lovers by elevating dining experiences, providing original industry content, and helping to fill some of the country's most exciting dining rooms. Because restaurants have always been more than just places to eat. The amazing world of restaurants is just a few taps away in the Resi app and at resi.com.
0:31And that's what is really magical about Squirrel. Squirrel is a place that is in constant evolution. We are not the same restaurant that we were in 2012 or 2020. The resilient and delicious place that we are today is because of the work that we put in then. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbarg.
0:59It was so great having Jessica Koslow in the studio. Jessica is the chef and founder of Squirrel in Los Angeles, a pioneering breakfast and lunch counter that serves inventive rice bowls and jams on toast and inspired a generation of the all-day cafe. In this episode, we talk a bit about Jessica's early career before going into her exceptional jam business and hearing some big news about changes at the restaurant. Also in the show, I have a fun conversation with Tigis Reda, chef-owner of the popular Chicago-Ethiopian restaurant, Damera. Tigis takes the resi questionnaire, and we find out about her favorite food book, her last meal on Earth, and most importantly, her favorite Chicago pizza.
1:38I hope you enjoy this episode.
1:43Jessica Koslow, welcome to This Is Taste. How are you? I'm great. How are you? I'm thrilled to speak with you. We don't really know each other that well, but I've gotten to know you over the past couple of weeks because we've been chatting on the phone, and a good mutual friend connected us about big news at Squirrel. It's true. There's big news. Big news in the best way possible. We'll get to that. We'll just say you're launching dinner, which is incredible. We will get to all that amazing info, But I just want to know you're in New York and you don't make it here, you know, all the time. Where are you dining out?
2:24I used to be here a lot more and I haven't in a minute. And so, you know, I'm kind of like running around trying to explore as much as possible. Last night we went to Penny. Yeah. It was so delicious. It was like the fish is just perfect. The confit oysters, which I'm like, that's not where I go. I just loved it. So really shout out to them for doing such a beautiful, honest job. I'm going to Wild Cherry tomorrow. Oh, fun. Hottest restaurant in New York right now. Yeah, hottest, hottest. I'm going to go see that play. It's going to be great. Oh, wonderful. You're going to pre-dinner and then theater.
3:02Yeah. You know, as you see, I broke my ankle last week. And so I'm doing a lot of sitting. So that's been, I'm excited for that. And I also, Riyad, I love his food. it's an artery moment you know getting ready for it but I do love his food but I also love the tones that he creates in his spaces like Voodor is just such a sexy restaurant same with Frenchette and so you know he just has this way this humor that he brings into his food like thighs and fries like it's not taking it too seriously and it's letting the diner just have a good time time so I'm I love him I love what he does and I'm excited well conceded restaurants I want to go back to Penny when you look at a confit oyster and you say it's not your thing and you're surprised you know as a chef I want to get into that a little bit like you're ordering something that you're probably not going to like but then you like it how do you feel yeah those are the things actually that I I learn from the most is like there's something on the menu that might not be exactly like what I enjoy.
4:13And then I'm over the moon with how it turns out. Like my, my husband's the guy that has to eat the hot oyster when it comes to the table. If there's like a, if you know, if we have a tasting menu. And so we got it last night because it's, it's cooked, it's a confit and schmaltz and chicken fat. And it was just, it was great. It was so good. It was like labneh and these crackers. I don't know. Great job, guys. That's a great pairing. Are they, Are they like house crackers, like something cool going on there? They kind of seem like saltines that are kind of seasoned, like house seasoned. But I don't know.
4:44Were they ranching? No, they were like paprika, like Old Bay seasoning. Yeah, yeah, yeah. So that was a win. And also the person I was with didn't really love like pumpkin and bonito, but we got it. And the pumpkin was actually not in my perception or my thought. It'd be like chunks of pumpkin, shade bonito, you know. But it was the juice of pumpkin that had been reduced sitting in this bed of bonito fish and the actual like meat of it. So they reversed your perception. You thought it was going to be vegetable forward, but it went protein forward. That also has to – that would take me on a tangent to talk about menus and how they're built and how you write them out.
5:28Yeah. Because like the perception of what I thought didn't match the actual dish. and those are the things that like excite me the most when I'm completely surprised and overjoyed which I am often yeah um I've always wanted to ask you this your Instagram is great first off a great follow but you've uh you've had the handle prosciutto snacks forever uh what's the what's the genesis story of that name you know I don't it's kind of like a swift thing where I don't I like Like my Instagram is totally – like I don't have anything on there really right now. You have in the past though. I did in the past.
6:05That's insane. It was a fun follow. Yeah. And then I wiped it. And I wiped it to kind of like – I will say this. I'm the person behind the squirrel Instagram, so I'm posting there. And I wanted for a moment, and it's still that moment, to like live my life and like have those experiences be mine. and it's been a really healthy thing for me. And I'll get back there. I think with dinner coming out, like I'll be posting a lot more of like what is the behind the scenes, which I always find fascinating. It's like those behind the scene moments of like a show that can correlate to the restaurant. But prosciutto snacks is for my dog.
6:49My dog is turning 13 and I got him from a customer who came into the restaurant with him. And he I was like, I really love your this guy at the time was like, hey, I really love your restaurant. And, you know, there are these spots on the plates and it was coming from we needed like a salt in the salt that goes in the water to take the calcium spots off of the water. And I was like, oh, thank you so much for your feedback. And I love your dog. And he was like, oh, I just found him. Do you want him? And so in my hospitality tone, I was like, yes, I will take your dog. And so I ended up, in order to, you know, make a better experience, I ended up with the love of my life, which is my pup.
7:33And he just lives a life of prosciutto snacks. So prosciutto snacks is all for the dog. Yeah. It makes perfect sense. It's such an L.A. thing. I'm sorry. I'm going to like to say, would you like my dog? I just found him. And you're like, sure. Yeah. That is like in New York, I feel like that does not happen as much. Yeah. California rules, by the way. This is all upside positive here. I think in California, people are more willing to take a moment to talk to a stranger and see how they're doing or be like, hey, we have the same bag or cute dog. And especially Squirrel. Squirrel is like a very dog-friendly place.
8:09So, you know, that's just the genesis of Monk. Let's get to Squirrel. You know, I've been a fan and a customer since the first year or so. I absolutely adore the restaurant. You know, the Sorel pesto rice and I mean the pancakes, I've been ordering those. And of course, the toasts with jam and dairy and beautiful pairings there. And I just have been such a fan of your work. And I think you've been really ahead of the curve on a lot of trends that we see now everywhere. And that's a huge compliment. I hope you take it that way. I would like for our audience who maybe knows the name Squirrel but hasn't been able to make it to your restaurant in L.A., How do you like to talk about it?
8:53Like what we call it at Squirrel is contemporary fine dining. And during the day, it is casual counter service, chef-driven, market-driven. And at night, it is service at the table, but it's still casual fine dining. And what I mean by that is like there's some heavy technique behind the food. and at the same time it looks really simple and it also can feel like nostalgic and something that you know and also done in a completely different way so that is how i would describe the restaurant is like people like oh you have salad sandwiches bowls and the answer is yes we do and it's it's provided to you in a way where you're like how did those flavors come about how how did you make it that delicious let me go try it at home and then they try it at home and they're like, nope, can't make it, you know?
9:48I mean, absolutely. There's so much technique. I think I draw comparisons to Momofuku in many ways. I think when that launched in New York, it looked simple, buns, you know, rice cakes. But as we know through the mythology of Momo, there's so much technique and really fine dining background like yourself. Just like fine dining really is the root of it. But no point of service. And I remember visiting Squirrel maybe three years ago for brunch and just, well, you're working. I mean, I remember just being, hey, you know, I don't know you, but what's up? And, you know, this is part of Squirrel is you being there.
10:24It seems like it's been a really important part of it. Yeah. Yeah. I mean, maybe to the chagrin of some of my team members sometimes. But if I am home, I am there. It's a seven-day-a-week thing for me. Unbelievable. I'm still on the line on the weekends. I have started to take Saturdays off. I am on the line on Sunday. I love being on the line on the busiest day. I love seeing what the crunch points are. I love as a team that we talk about things that are challenging and how to move through them. And I wouldn't be able to kind of get that feedback if I wasn't present. So, yeah, I'm there every day.
11:05Where did the Cyril idea come from, the rice ball? You know, that is a Trois Gras, sorrel, no, is that a Trois Gras? Yeah, it's a Trois Gras sorrel salmon situation. Yeah. So it was my love of that dish and then wanting to try and filter that green into the rice that was coming from this really beautiful Japanese farm, that farmer who had brought this grain of rice varietal over in the early 1900s. Yeah, and just making a flavored rice with a vegetal and sour flavor profile that got a lot of people thinking about rice who maybe didn't have rice as part of their diet, you know, historically or just in general, just like the craving rice.
11:53It's pretty remarkable. Yeah, I mean, it can be polarizing because some people are like, it's sour. Yeah. And the other thing that's interesting is that it has these layers of fermentation in it. Both the crispy rice and the sorrel have these fermented preserved lemons and fermented lacto-fermented jalapenos since the beginning that are all like made in-house. And that like layer of lactic acid just brings this other kind of like umami thing to the table that is very craveable. Yeah. Yeah, for me. And also a little, in some ways, like more, I would say, in a Middle Eastern flavor profile as well.
12:30So you're challenging, like, where it's coming from. Yeah, it is craveable. And you're like, you see greens, you're thinking, oh, it's going to be like a Genovese pesto. Yeah. And you're like, oh, of course it's going to be pesto rice. But then you're like, oh, oh. And then you get the little, you know, the fermented peppers and you're like, oh. The cool thing, too, is that by bringing this to the table, it required Coleman Farmer in L.A. to start growing a lot more sorrel. And so he began having like a renaissance of we, I mean, in L.A., started to see sorrel in more places. And it was great because it allowed him the opportunity to like, you know, grow an extensive amount for service.
13:12Yeah. Hi there. It's Matt, co-host of the show. We are currently running a This Is Taste listener survey, and we'd love to hear from you. Do you have a guest request? A restaurant you wish we'd visit to talk about on three things? What about a lesser-known cookbook author who deserves a spot in our studio chair? You can let us know by clicking the link in our show notes to complete the survey. It will only take a couple minutes, I swear, and will help us continue to make the best show possible. That's the This Is Taste listener survey link in our show notes. This episode is brought to you by Aura Frames.
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15:09Support the show by mentioning us at checkout. Terms and conditions apply. From February 20th to March 7th, dive into Canada's biggest culinary festival, Montreal en Lumière. An exclusive partnership with the McCord Stewart Museum and its exhibition, On the Menu Montreal, a restaurant story. the 2026 festival invites food lovers on a flavorful journey through time. Montreal's top restaurateurs will reimagine 65 years of the city's iconic astronomy, crafting inventive, nostalgia-inspired dishes with a modern twist. Prepare your palate. World-renowned chefs, including several Michelin-starred talents, will team up with over 80 of Montreal's finest local chefs to create unforgettable, one-of-a-kind menus.
15:55The full program is available at MontrealOnLumiere.com, presented by Lotto Quebec in collaboration with National Bank. I want to go back to your background in dining. And you worked for Anne Cotrano in Atlanta. I didn't know that actually about you. Talk about that era of your training, of your career working with her and kind of what you took away from that experience. Have you talked to her before? I have talked to her not on the microphone in this show. It would be amazing. But I love Atlanta. It's one of my favorite cities in America. And I've been able to meet her. Yeah. Yeah. I feel like you should talk to her.
16:34And more people should know her because she, in my opinion, is the Alice Waters of the South and has brought so much to the culinary industry. Yeah. Absolutely agree. She can be championed for, like, there's very few people like her. And part of it is, like, being a woman, like, in this industry is so challenging. And she has a legacy of Bacchanalia, which has been around since the 90s. Yeah, definitely 90s. And for me, like I had moved to Atlanta in 2005 and I wrote her a letter and I and it was a time when like people didn't really write letters. Like you get emails all the time now saying like, hey, I'd love to stage at your restaurant.
17:23Please hire me. I don't want to work in this industry. And I had just graduated from school and at the time was like baking as well and had wanted to go full in. And she she invited me in and she laughed and she gave me a job. And I worked as a pastry cook. She laughed? Oh, yeah. She was like, what is this letter? Oh, she laughed at the letter. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. She laughed at the letter. Like, what is this letter? Like, just a different time. I don't know if people just showed up back then. And so the pastry chef, Carla, is still there, by the way, and still working her magic. And I worked for Carla.
18:01And I worked in every department. I worked at Bacchanalia. They had a very fine dining restaurant called Quinones at the time as well. I also ended up working at Abattoir, and she also has Star Provisions, which is this market. And in a way— So cool. What happened there was it was the first time that I got to see— like, the farmer's markets don't really exist in the same capacity that they do in L.A., and the farmers would come and drop everything off at the restaurant. And it was the first time that I really was like able to see how things were grown, brought and then preserved and canned. You saw some like dirt on some boots.
18:41Yeah. In the back door, which maybe wasn't your background previously. No, absolutely not. And it was everything from like full animal to pickles to the fruits of the season. And it was our job when they came in to, you know, preserve, you know, squirrel these things away. Right. And I was like, OK, if this is happening here, what are we doing in California where things are just we make 80 percent of the produce that goes to the rest of the United States? Like, what are we doing with that? I had grown up with not the idea of preservation for preservation's sake because we'd have so little. So I think her working there really is the reason why I took that back to L.A.
19:26and why Squirrel is kind of what it is now. We have this, like, market situation as well that feels, you know, like 2 % of star provisions. But, you know, she really has a lasting way in which I see. It's really cool that you connected that ethic in Atlanta and you take it to L.A. And it's a place where, of course, Michael McCarty is talking to farmers in the 70s. And there's a history of working with farms. But really in like 2010, there aren't as many of the L.A. chefs who are championing the farms and putting the names on their menus, which is crazy to think about now. Because like we know you go to Santa Monica Farmer's Market, you know, it's a really busy place.
20:05It's a chef's hang. Every chef is there. You can't wait to see your buddy. Literally every chef is there. And I mean, you started Squirrel as a jam company, though. You didn't actually want to be a chef per se. What just inspired you to do the jam, but then be like, oh, I need to actually be a chef? Yeah. Well, I think that the jam part is because of Anne. And I did start it while working at Abattoir in 2010. and kind of like I showed her what I was doing. I asked her for feedback. And she really supported. I think the best thing a mentor and a leader can do is be excited about like you leaving.
20:49Yeah. You know, like your time with us is going to be really magical. And we're going to send you off into the world and hopefully a better place or a great place. And you're going to go do great things. And like that's what you want from your mentor. Yeah. You know, so that is why I started Squirrel. And I didn't just preserve things at that restaurant. Like I was working in pastry. So that was my that was my background. And look, I found this place, this 800 square foot space in Virgil Village off of Craigslist. I paid$10 ,000 in key money. That's what you paid for that spot? Yeah. Wow. Amazing.
21:29Yeah, it was great. Yeah. I mean, now that you've got like Budonoke there, you've got like buzzy neighborhood of restaurants. Yeah. No, we've got Budonoke and Courage and Voodoo. Courage, too. Of course, Courage. Yeah. All the lines. All the lines. And that's delicious. And, yeah, so that space was I had I was doing the jam out of there at the time. And I had a I was teaching classes. I also like I was doing a little wholesale for Nancy Silverton. She had like a burger joint. So I was doing like her ferments and jams and pickles. But the majority was teaching classes. And, you know, like this was based on the money that I had saved up to do this.
22:14And the person doing my numbers was like, this isn't you cannot make this work. You will. And I was at the farmer's market, too. Like I was trying everything. I was a little octopus trying to have like a jam business, like be successful. Um, and the accountant was like, you just, you won't, you won't, you won't last till the end of the year. And at that time I was like, okay, well, if I do open, it makes sense to have it be breakfast and lunch because that is, uh, the, it, it like the, sorry, the narrative of that breakfast and lunch from jam makes the most sense. Um, but I don't have any sort of front of house experience.
22:51And especially when it comes to coffee and at the same time, Charles Babinski. Yeah. Who's now in Australia doing great things. And Kyle, we're launching Go Get Him Tiger. At the time it was G &B. G &B, legendary Grand Central Market, Pioneers in especially coffee. So you and Charles, Charles showed you some moves? So they opened, no, but like when we opened Squirrel, it was them in the front of the house. No shit. Yeah. Oh, they were doing G &B pop-up. They were doing G &B pop-up at the front of house. They did all the coffee. They did all the front of house service. And we did all the back. And I think that it was a magical moment where like people came to support us all as a collective.
23:32And that lasted for as long as they were getting their other locations. They had like one on Larchbon and one opening Grand Central Market open. And then by that time, I had enough experience to kind of like transition the cafe portion. Now, who's running the bar is this guy. His name is John Lamberton, and he was Charles, like, right hand. Yeah. So I have this really incredible bar team now. But at the time, you know, everyone in the space was doing their art. Yeah. And it was, yeah. A real, I mean, a true collaboration. It was, yeah. Like the fact that you're doing your work with the ferments and with the, you know, the ramping up the menu with toast and then eventually the rice bowls.
24:19But then you've got GMB kind of starting out as well. Really magical period. Yeah. 2012, October. What a pairing too. And like this is like ahead of the curve. Again, like people, especially coffee in L.A. was certainly, it has a history, but people aren't thinking about the cold drinks they're doing at GMB. And then, of course, these toasts. But again, how many times have you seen this concept in the world? And you can pinpoint L.A. 2012 as a place where it really started. How do you feel about that legacy? I mean, I'll get things all the time. They're like, look, they're doing what Squirrel's doing.
24:54And I'm like, great. Like, that was us in 2012. I love that attitude. And that's not who we are today. And, you know, I'm always honored when I like, I don't know, there was a coffee place. I was like, I had a baker's latte at Squirrel. And so we're trying to do it at this coffee shop here in Brooklyn. Awesome. Go for it. Yeah. I mean, that is the attitude. Imitation is the highest form of flattery. Some people say that lawyers may disagree. But I think the ethic of a real creative and a creator is like, well, we got to figure out the next thing. Yeah. Like I have my skill is that I am always in evolution.
25:33Exactly. And that so someone trying something is great. Yeah, I know. So, Jessica, you are, you know, things are going well. I mean, you are your profile is rising. You're getting on lists. You're certainly becoming a leader in food. You're still working all these shifts. I mean, Squirrel is as busy as ever. 2020 is here. You know, pandemic happens, crazy times everywhere. And there's a bump in the road, a significant one. And I had to have you on to ask you about this this moment where there was mold in the jam and it became a meme. And we I do not need to get into like the details. You can tell me them, but like real litigating this.
26:19But given the five years that has kind of happened since this moment and time to reflect, you know, where are you at right now with this? Well, I will say that Squirrel is and was a magical place and that in mid-2020, we went through a reckoning based on, honestly, my poor leadership. And I had to sit with it.
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26:48And, yeah, it's really hard to talk about. Yeah, I know. And I had to watch the team and the restaurant grapple with my choices, and it was devastating. And I could have gone a couple of ways. I could have closed the doors and hidden and left the culinary world. Or I could have shown up for the team and myself and the restaurant and evolved. And that's what we did, and that's what is really magical about Squirrel. squirrel is a place that is in constant evolution we are not the same restaurant that we were in 2012 or 2020 um and the resilient and delicious place that we are today is because of the work that we put in then and while i wouldn't wish that experience on anyone we went through the fire and we forge through it a better version of ourselves.
27:47And can I just talk about like where we are today? Yeah. And, you know, like we make more jam now than we've ever made. We make about 40 ,000 jars a year all handmade. We make, and we're in more stores than we've ever been in. We are USDA organic certified and that process we did two years ago. And you can only do it when you're under great note-taking inspections and that it's made an organic food process facility, a PFR. At great cost and time to you. Yeah, but in a way necessary in order to – I think necessary for us to be accountable. Necessary and like honestly very challenging to do for a small business like ourselves.
28:41and, you know, a beautiful thing to do. But on top of it, we make jam for a lot of our farmers. And that has been a huge highlight for us, which is making a product from their product that they can sell and make revenue from, not just from their produce. Which is just a great service to a farmer who needs that extra revenue, needs it, like it's required to make the farm work. We have a farm that we work with that they have their own cafe. so we manufacture the product also for their cafe um and and again like that has been great but on top of the jams you know like the culture of the team is really special like there's a like an ethos of kindness that's always been there and is like very prevalent right now in how we communicate and talk to each other and the food is great and yeah and so that's where we are today and where we're going is dinner.
29:34I mean, I think the fact that you just you didn't shudder and you preserved it makes it a stronger business. I just want to go back one more one more question, you know, when when there's mold on the jam and you swiftly make the changes, but it's still there. I'm just going to say there was a level of piling on to the criticism that felt I mean, it was, of course, unmerited but it felt almost vicious and i think uh the fact that you're a woman has uh certainly something to do with it that's my assumption um i mean how do you how do you feel looking back five years at that period and just the way these memes would happen i mean i really have someone was just squirrel jam for halloween and it was like a meme like 20 like this year 2025 yeah like a few days ago so and you're not laughing at it either i mean this is not really i mean you're positive and you're launching dinner, but like that still hurts and must.
30:32It's more that I think about the team. I have grown like a very tough skin where I feel like I can take anything and I can look at that time and take what was important out of it and also see the things that I should put in this category and the things that needed to be put in that category. When I see these things, I think more about them and how to make sure that we continue to be the best versions of ourselves so we don't go through anything like that again. So we are a safe place. But, you know, I won't be able to control people's kind of like meowiness. And that is something that I had to learn is just like you see that and you just go, Okay, well, we're still doing great work and, you know, find the like the pride and passion in like the work that we're doing because the work is really hard.
31:36You know, like I don't know too many people, restaurateurs, places that are actually manufacturing their own product and it can be messy. Well, not just manufacturing because, you know, sometimes restaurants have like a little shop or it's gifts for guests and they have a small production. But you've mentioned the Squirrel Jam is in more stores than ever. And this is like a real CPG company in addition to running this business, this restaurant, and you've got double P &Ls going. I mean, I want to hear a little bit about the jams that you're selling. I mean, I love them and you pick them up. You know, you've got these wild flavor combinations and the quality is high.
32:17Yeah. You know, as we were talking about, like being able to have 15 years of relationships with farmers has allowed me access to just like the most delightful and delicious fruit varietals. And so a lot of times the flavors that come out are flavors based around moments. and there was a like Santa Rosa plum and time flowering is a moment. Or we were doing these, we are doing these collaborations where, you know, we got these apricots and soba cha and we just, we put them together because Zach from Kettle had given me a note about those two flavors working well together. And so I tested it out.
33:05So some of it is like fun collaboration and others like timestamps, but all in honor of a moment, whether it be like that perfect time that that plum is ready or, you know, the time flowering. I mean, I think of you, I think of Malcolm Livingston II. Yeah, I love him. I love him too. And I think both of your pastry backgrounds just makes the CPG extension so much better and exciting. And I love his— Can we give August a shout out right now? No, we've got to give August a shout out. I mean— I don't know where you find it here in New York. I know. Unless he comes and makes it. I think it's when he rolls in with a cooler and he's dropping it.
33:47But, of course, you can get them at Kettle, that collab at Kettle. I got to try that recently. In L.A.? Yeah, in L.A. Yeah, I love that. But I think there's something about having a pastry chef do a product, like a jam or a handheld. Yeah. It's exceptional. Yeah, and I do love the idea that it can live outside of the four walls of the restaurant. Yeah, totally. And it's something that you can take home as an extension of what we do. And the preservation aspect of fruit and that it can live a joyful life in the morning. It's great. Well, I want to move on to dinner and talk about some details. I think we're going to time dropping this release.
34:29A little drum roll. Dropping this release around the time you will be opening. It may be slightly ahead of time. It may be slightly after you open, but reservations will be open. And I love that you're, quote, unquote, building in public. I can't believe I just said that. With your substack, I think you're, like, doing some cool testing. I saw chicken liver with a torn fried bread. You're thinking about celery butter, a gorgeous shot there. You're playing around with tartare. I saw a pan-roasted cabbage. You know, you're kind of playing around with some of this. You see little snippets. I'm not giving you the whole image.
35:02These aren't even trailers. These are like, you know, like cover reveal, basically. Close-ups. But Jessica, like, tell me about the menu. I mean, what's dinner at Squirrel all about? Yeah, I never sent you the menu. You never did. It's all good. It's all good. Tell me about it. It is the question that I get asked most because people are thinking it should be, oh, is this just like Squirrel during the day? The answer is no. It's not. It's full service at night. And the food feels very bistro because that is the feeling of the space, but a bistro in L.A. And when I say that, I also mean in reference truly to the heritage of all of us, the team that's there.
35:49This isn't Jessica has a like my mom's side is British. So I have a lot of like British and Jewish kind of like tones that come into the food. But our CDC and Sue, one is like Mexican Indian. The other is, I mean, he's from Texas, but also has that as his background. And so there's a lot of flavors from their nostalgia that kind of float into this like bistro. And that's the goal of Squirrel Always, which is like make the food that is most delicious and flavorful and nostalgic to you because that is what will come out the best on the other side. And so, yes, is there like a beet-filled annulati that is in this kind of like Polish, like beet, borscht, like reference?
36:42And when you bite into the pasta, it like spews this like caramelized onion beet situation. What's the flour for the pasta? Oh, it's like a double. Yeah, double O. But there is also pasta where beet has been folded into it. So I don't know if you saw those like kind of fun – the pasta itself is like – The ribbons, yeah. Yeah, dual colored. They're kind of like streaked and you're doing some fun experiments. So there's some fun and lots of labor involved in it. The chicken liver that you saw is in this kind of like in a mold with the celery butter is on top. And then when you schmear it onto the bread, it like is bicolored.
37:23And it's a very cool visual cue, but also something that I grew up and I know all of the team grew up in different ways, like eating like on holidays, you know. Yeah. But not in this, not in this aesthetic. No, celery butter. That's amazing. Yeah. It's a very, I mean, the color, of course, just popped right out of the contrast. So we have things like that. We have a chicken that's in like that is koji roasted that honestly and it has like an anchovy juice and like tons of bread crouton. I mean, it's so delicious. I know chickens like everyone, you know, to the chagrin of the culinary world. No apologies needed for chicken.
38:03No, chicken is delicious. Yes, it is. And it is even more so now. And then we have this, you know, this steak with this kind of like tabbouleh mignonette and like braised cipollinis and like a, you know, some sort of sauce that takes four days to make. And it's just the food is honest, but the and the goal always is craveable. Like, I want you to come. I want you to remember how often you go to a restaurant and like you actually remember the dishes that you had. I mean, yeah, I know it's this sorrel rice bowl at Squirrel. Yeah. You remember it. You know, it's definitely you have the DNA to kind of do this.
38:40And when people come, they're like, oh, yeah, I was here like four years ago. And it's like, what do you have? And they're like, oh, I don't really remember. I'm like, no, I didn't do my job. My job is for you to remember. Like your palate is like, I need that again. So that is, you know, that is like the foundation of the menu. But it feels very bistro and like what we were saying about AM where, oh, yeah, what's squirrel salad sandwiches, bowls? And you could say the same thing, like a chicken, a steak, some potatoes. Like, but is it? No. Is it like an order the full menu kind of menu or are there going to be 20 plus menu items?
39:14There's 20 plus menu items. I like that. I appreciate that. I mean, yes and no, right? Like there is something – I just went to this place in Paris called Restaurant Dandelion, which also deserves a shout-out. And it has like nine items on it, and you can order all of them. And it was so delicious. It was so good. And I will tell everyone hands down to go there. And I'm like, man, I want more options. It's a tough hang when you have under 10 menu items, I think, especially if you have a group. It just can be – just not like customer-centered. It's a little more chef-centered. that menu construction.
39:51Yeah. I mean, I also get it. Like maybe your kitchen's small. 100%. Maybe you're trying to be, make sure that your food goes out quickly and like efficiently. When you have more items, it can get messy, you know? Yeah. It can. I get it all. So booking on Resi? Mm-hmm. So reservations, what's the story with that? Follow the sub stack and we'll let you know first when they come out. Yeah. I have a feeling like reservations beginning of, will kind of soft launch somewhere in early December. Okay. And we're shooting for December this year. December opening. So we'll. But maybe it's a little later.
40:24I think we're in December now if we're recording this in November. But we will run it in December. Oh, thanks. It's the magic of podcasts. Oh, cool. Magic of podcasts. Beverage. Yes. Because I feel beverage. Oh, yeah. We didn't talk about this. We can't forget about beverage because, you know, LA's beverage scene to me is extremely exciting. Oh, tell me why. Tell me where you've gone. It's not centered always. It is centered in beautiful places and there's great wine shops and great beverage service and cocktail bars. But L.A. is a town that is probably drinking less than any major American city right now currently for a lot of reasons.
41:04So while I know you have a full bar and there'll be a big bar program and I'd love to hear about it, you're probably thinking about some other things too on the NA side, which interests me the most. Have you been to Cato? Of course. Austin's amazing. He's been on the show. God, he's killing it. Yeah, maybe he should do the drinks at Squirrel. He's a partner at Kato. I'm kidding. He's not leaving. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Also love John, and I wouldn't, you know. Yeah, no, we are kidding here. That's super inside right there. No, but let's just go back to this, because if y 'all need to go to one place for drinking in L.A., I would suggest going to the bar at Kato.
41:47Cato is a very expensive and beautiful tasting menu. It was just there for my birthday. Oh, cool. I love what they're doing. The bar program at Cato is next level. Best bar program I've had anywhere in the United States. And part of it is because his focus on N.A., right? And it's not just like – it was like the New York Times list that came out that was like less of. And so many people were like, like, give me – I don't know. I feel like it was Kim Cypherson. It was like, I want less, you know, like fake Negroni and give me more NA that's like dynamic and interesting, right? And that is true.
42:32That is something that I believe in, which is like how do we make a very delicious NA program? And we already have – like we have a water kefir that's on draft that we do. We have a frozen machine that we have an N.A. coming out of right now. Oh, great. And would we like to do like some sort of other N.A.s? Yes. And then, you know, like we just hired this. We hired a bar manager for Squirrel. And she's coming from Kumiko in Chicago where she was the head bartender there and they won a beard for a bar program. and if I just like back up a second squirrel didn't get their liquor license till the day before Christmas of last year and that's really what was stopping us from opening even like considering a dinner program was that we I knew that in order to like do the experience right we needed the full experience whether it's na or whether it's not like we we needed that full experience so now that we do have that bar program where we have the the license having her on to like build that out is going to be very exciting.
43:41That will be exciting. I mean, I just think with your connection with the farms, having an incredible lineup of shrubs and drinking vinegars and just going in that direction, which excites me. We already have that too. And yeah, I agree. I think that is what really compels me when I'm drinking NA in LA. I think Austin's doing amazing work with like teas and adding body through, you know, steeping teas into other liquids. That's cool too. There's many ways you can go with NA. Before we get to Taste Check, you might have thought I forgot about this question. I prepped for it. You worked on American Idol.
44:18It's on your resume. All right, Jessica, tell me about working on this show. Do I have to? Exactly. No, it was fun. The cool thing, so I left Ann in 2007. I went back and worked with her in 2010. but I moved to New York here in this beautiful city. Yeah. And I ended up getting a job because of my degree at Fox, um, at news corp. And I became a producer for American idol. Um, and it was all digital production. So like all the videos behind the scenes, you know, and I was like a fish out of water, you know, you kind of like you sink or swim. And I swam. and the thing that I learned that I brought to I would say the restaurant is like when you are a producer you are bringing all these different components together to turn the lights on every day to like make the the video happen and um so I was able to take that work and put it into Squirrel and that that kind of like bringing everyone together to set the scene for the day But working on the show, you know, I voted.
45:34I called in. You called in. I made sure to vote. Were you working like the audition lines out in like a Jersey mall and doing those shoots? No, no. I was doing like top 10 shoots for that was like behind the scenes of the top 10 for Coca-Cola. Oh, right. So you're doing like the branded stuff. But you would get like a little. So you were on set during the actual filming of these competitions and you would grab one of the contestants with a Coke in hand. We had a you. We had a person that would go and speak to them. I was always behind the scenes. You were producing it. Yeah. I mean, wild job, but clearly connected to project management.
46:13Yeah. Which is like the job of a— Wild job. Today's episode is brought to you by ButcherBox. As a food writer, I can be a little skeptical about subscription cooking boxes you hear about on podcasts. There's big talk about cooking simplicity, but you're usually left with disappointment after smashing that promo code. Now, Clayton, have you ever tried one of those subscription boxes? Yeah, Matt, my friend gave me a code for that one that has all the chopped vegetables in little baggies. I felt like a drug dealer trying to cook dinner. Yeah, man, I have so been there. Butcher Box is a true exception.
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47:27As an exclusive offer, our listeners can get free protein in every box for a year, plus$20 off your first box when you go to butcherbox.com slash taste. Visit butcherbox.com slash taste to get this limited-time offer and free shipping always. That's butcherbox.com slash taste. Don't forget to use our link so they know we sent you. On This Is Taste, we ask guests about the discerning taste. So to close this interview, here's a little rapid-fire, fast, and furious taste check. Are you ready? Yes, but can I not just answer in one word, but maybe a few? That tends to be the mode here. Okay, good. So we're good.
48:05The best fruit. Okay. Quick story is that I hated fruit growing up, and this is why I do what I do. Because I would take fruit and spit them out as a little kid. and turning going to the pastry world was my way of like turning fruit into something that I would eat now the way that I eat fruit is in small tiny bites to check the brightness of their acidity because I like a high acid fruit to go along with the sugar or you know the preservation that we add to it so I love a satsuma plum I love a Blenheim apricot something that tastes like it's from the backyard. Things I don't like because I like commodity bananas, commodity melons, things that just stink up a room.
48:51Like you might come for me, but someone eating a banana on a flight is like, it's malicious. Like, why are you doing that to us? It has a bouquet, so to speak, that is not great. I know everyone loves them. I get memes from my friends about them. So I look forward to getting more the worst vegetable um kind of like a for a similar reason as a as a banana or commodity melon like a green bell pepper yeah like they just take over they take over the item the the meal you're creating instead of bringing harmony yeah it's like so vegetal yeah it's like glue why it's like glue or something. What's yours?
49:41What do you hate? My worst vegetable? These days I'm thinking like any summer squash. I'm in that camp too. They're hard to cook. That was exactly what I was saying. They're hard to do and I find myself putting a lot of pecorino on it and pepper and making it work, I guess. Yeah, I agree with you. I feel like you gave me a look like that pairing is bad. No, that pairing's great. That's an honest pairing. No, I'm like, I'm not self-conscious at all. I was like, okay, am I doing it right? Because I like peccary and pepper works. But yeah, it's a hard thing for me. All right, let's do, what is your typical breakfast?
50:22It's just typical. I like a piece of toast with some nut butter and jam. Why not? I mean, after this many years, I still eat the food at the restaurant. It's like I eat it every day. Why would you not? Yeah, the best. It's your food. Yeah, it's the best. The best dessert? I have a lot. Sure. I have a lot. I love like a creme caramel, especially from Otofuku in L.A. Yeah. I love a lemon tart. Josh Nyland does the best version at his restaurant in Sydney. The crust is so thin. I love a malva pudding cake. like that custard caramelized like filling any like like treacle tart um and you know my desert i you know my my last meal food is always ice cream so you know we talked about zero zen zero in yeah in seoul yeah and shout out to zen zero in korea for in seoul for having just like such delicious, unique flavors.
51:31Seasonal. So, like, a perfect ice cream. I'm done. I feel like Akira Kudo gave me that wreck. I think that's where that came from originally. That makes sense. Makes sense. I'm pretty sure. But it's in Korea World. We have a nice little section about it. Shout out to Korea World. Thank you. Shout out to Korea World. All right. A restaurant you wish you could bring back from the dead. I want to know yours. Tell me yours first. Oh, my God. Because I hope it's not mine. Turning the – I still want to go to Kate's Joint again. Okay. In the East Village. What's that? It's a vegetarian restaurant. Opened between, like, 95 and closed in, like, probably 10 or 12.
52:09And a funky place. I remember, like, going to CMJ and going there and hanging out afterwards. And, like, to me, it's just more like that era and that vibe. It was less about the food. Thank you for asking me. I guess I haven't said that in a while. I probably haven't said that before. People should be asking you questions, too. Your knowledge is deep. Thanks, Jessica. Yours as well. So what is yours? So you're such an East Coast New Yorker answer. And mine's such a West Coast Angeleno answer. Because mine is Suzanne Goins' Luke. Oh, yeah. And that restaurant is in this gorgeous, beautiful building.
52:44And the food, like, it was one of those places where you got an amuse. Like, you got, like, Castle Votrano olives and almonds at the table as a gift. And like what a kind gesture that is rare at restaurants these days. And the food was just always seasonal. She would have these Sunday suppers that were legendary. Her book, by the way, Sunday Supper, is a terrific cookbook. It's a terrific – like people should own that as like a foundational cookbook. And it was just like the room, it was just such a joyful place. Like I went there when I graduated high school when I was 18. Amazing. I had these moments where like I would – I'm from Long Beach, so a little south.
53:27And we'd come up to L.A. and it was kind of like the place we would go in L.A. I love that. What a dream. I still make the Luke Brussels sprouts with pancetta and balsamic reduction for Thanksgiving. Every year it was featured in the New York Times in 2003, 2004, around then. And I still to this day it's my go-to. I feel like at the time, you know, now it's like, oh, you're doing Brussels sprouts and bacon? Like, cool, me too. But then you're like, oh, legendary. And you just have to take yourself back to these moments of like where things kind of originated from. And that's one. When you're craving fast food, where are you going?
54:03Where do you think I go? I mean, you're going to say In-N-Out likely, but you're also possibly going to say Del Taco. Or you're maybe going to go. I like that you were Del Taco. I know you're like you're wincing at that answer. You know, those are my guesses, but are you a McDonald's person? No, my husband is. My husband is. Husband's a wise man. Yeah, my husband's a wise man. Your husband's a wise man. That might be his answer, actually. What's yours? I mean, obviously mine is In-N-Out. Like, there is nothing better than that griddled bun. Yeah. And, again, like, this is very sexy. I love raw onions on that burger.
54:42I do. Yeah. And just for crunch and the lettuce for crunch, it is a great burger. I also, I mean, you weren't far off. Like, I have a nostalgia for Taco Bell for the cinnamon twist and, like, the bean. Like, I would get that. The bean burrito. Yeah. I would get that as a kid. And I also have, like, the breakfast sandwich from Jack in the Box from, like, my, ooh, from my, like, high school rave days. So, I don't know. A different thing for different moments of my life. But if it was just one is like in and out, like ride or die. Yeah, I love those answers. I mean, LA is where fast food was born and where it thrives.
55:22I mean, it's car culture, right? Car culture. How do you get into that? A couple more, your favorite city outside America to visit for food. I mean, gosh, every place is always a curious space. Look, I always go back to Paris and London. I think that, like, I'm always looking for food that is willing to take risks on nostalgic or, like, familiar dishes. So I find that Paris and London do the best job of, like, exploring, like, traditional meats, like, new mindset. Love Tokyo. Love going to Seoul. You give us a lot. Yeah. You give us a lot. I could just keep going. It's unfair. Just go travel. Go travel if you can.
56:13You'll learn something. You'll be delighted no matter where you go. Last one, your favorite sandwich. These are good questions. I love the hamembert at Shailene in Paris. I love the little egg sando and the prosciutto with shiso that come out of Camelback in Tokyo. I don't know if you've ever been there. But that little egg sando at Camelback is so Japanese and just like it's perfect. Like the bread is perfect. The egg is done so well. Like those are the two. Breakfast and lunch. Jessica Koslow, what a fun conversation. Thank you so much for joining This Is Taste. Thank you so much for having me.
57:03Tigis Retta, welcome to This Is Taste. How are you doing? I'm good. I'm good. How are you? I'm great. I mean, I'm excited to hear all about your life. We're doing the Resi Questionnaire. So lots of great questions. But first, tell me a little bit about your restaurant, Chicago DiMera. You've been open nearly 20 years. I mean, that's incredible. Yeah, yeah. We've been open 18 years. I think we're celebrating this week of 18 years. I mean, it's been up and down. Like, you know, the restaurant business is never easy, but it's what I love to do. And we keep coming back and staying strong. And for that, we are like a Chicago State restaurant.
57:42But yeah, we opened 2007. The Cubs hadn't won a World Series yet. Right? It's been so many years. But tell us a little bit about your cuisine and a little bit about, I mean, 18 years. That's such, you know, staying power. I mean, what are some of the most popular dishes? We do like authentic Ethiopian. So everything we eat is with the jarra, which is our flat bread or like almost utensil. We eat it with everything. but the most popular is damarama sap which is like we created in the beginning in the menu where we wanted people that never had the food they can try many a few items versus one menu item so you see when you walk in like if you pick damarama so we get to try three veggies three meat but that became like what people wanted to do and like 70 to 80 percent of our order is that so that just became our staple.
58:44I mean, when you opened up in Chicago, was Ethiopian cuisine known that well? Yeah. Like, especially in the north side, like, you know, there was, I think, like, in Wrigley Field, there was about four or five restaurants, and then they started closing, and then it went a little bit north, like, to Edgewater and uptown. So it's been concentrated in one area, but yeah, it's been around. Well, well, Tegis, are you ready to take the resi questionnaire? Sure, sure. Okay. Favorite thing you have ever cooked? It was recently. I did, we called it like helbert and halibut. Halibut. So halibut is like fava beans, red lentils, and fenugreek grounded and made.
59:34And then when you whip it, it gets foamy. And then we have this silci, which is onion, garlic, ginger, and barbari. So it has like, you have this foamy with something spicy. And we put the helibut fish on top of it. And then we put like our clarified butter and cherry tomato, like sizzled with like the butter and lemon and things like that. It was amazing. What a beautiful pairing. I mean, I'm loving that. Your favorite meal from childhood? Oh, it has to be Dara what? like our national dish was a hard-boiled egg and injera. Yeah, Dorawat. If it's good, there's nothing better. Oh my gosh. A kitchen tool or equipment you couldn't live without?
1:00:19Like a good pot, you know, to make our sauces. You need like hours of cooking. Yeah. So you need like reliably thick bottom pot. Pot, a good sturdy pot that can cook those sauces. Yeah, it is. All right. Your favorite cookbook? I'm reading this American, Young American Chef by Kawami. Yeah, yeah, that's a great one. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I'm reading it right now, so I'm loving it. But that's a tough one. There are so many good ones. That's a great one. This is a big one. Your favorite pizza in Chicago? Oh, I'm going to be in trouble. I love the pizza, but I've been like loving the fire burning 500 to 800.
1:01:10Neapolitan. Yeah. Yeah. Is there a favorite restaurant spot you go to for that pizza? No, it's whatever I find it. That's been like my favorite pizza right now. Yeah. What restaurant industry person do you admire the most? I think my friend Chef Sarah. Love her. She's a badass, like two times Jimmy Spears award, but she does also some money. humanitarian work. She's the co-founder of Green City Market and co-founder of Chicago Chef's Cook, which supports, like, chef's vision of non-profit. That's a great, great answer. What's been the greatest restaurant experience of your life so far? I think so many, but Dog On in D.C.?
1:01:56Yeah. It was a good one. Like, yeah. Take us back there. What was so great about that? I think it's just, like, the perfect solution of like Caribbean and African food, but also just, oh my God, the use of the ingredients. Yeah. Yeah. Your greatest professional achievement. I think opening up a second location. Yeah. Yeah. The way I wanted to open it, it's going to be in Brunsville. We're in 2026 and it's going to have 5 ,000 square foot kitchen, which I'm like, can't wait for it. Wow. and a beautiful restaurant and rooftop. So that would be it. Oh, with a rooftop too. Yeah, yeah. I love this.
1:02:37This is great. Is the menu going to be the same at Damera or new name? We're going to keep the authentic Ethiopian food, but we'll also have small plates that we're playing around, like, you know, fusion food. It's exciting. Yeah, it is. What single dish best describes your personality? I think we have one that is, I like the beets. It has cinnamon, it has cardamom, It has onion, garlic, so just like very, not one thing, but many things, yeah. And that's you? That's your personality? Yeah. I like that. Yeah, yeah. What is your wish for the restaurant industry? I think to get out of, like, you know, to be back to where, like, it's always been tough, but it's just getting harder and harder.
1:03:22But where we find where it works for everyone, for the team, for the owners, for the chefs, where it's really healthy and profitable because restaurant is the toughest business and like everyone has been working hard, but it's really been tough on chefs, owners, and the team. So like something we found, some way we found our ways. How do you get through your day then with all these challenges? Like, you know, I stay positive. I work out a lot. I do yoga and have family, friends, and good friends, like really good friends in the industry. So it's like talking with people in the industry and like sharing notes and maybe having a drink at the end of a long day with your friends.
1:04:05Yeah, absolutely. If you could eat through a city for a day, where would you go? Chicago. Chicago is wonderful. I love that answer. Okay. Take me through that day. If you could go to a couple places, you're not working, it's your day off. I think I would go like, you know, there's so many beautiful restaurants in Chicago. It just be like, you know, it's a Mexican restaurant. It's an Italian. It's a Ethiopian. It's a farm to table. Like I would just like kind of have one meal or sample everywhere. So yeah. I love that. Yeah. The one thing you can't resist splurging on when you go out for dinner.
1:04:44I think good meal. Like I want to taste everything. Like if I go out, I want to taste everything. Yeah. Is there one dish, though, that you're like, I have to order that? It's like my splurge. If I go to a restaurant, there isn't I wouldn't order. Like, if I go there, like, I'll order it. Okay, I see, I see. You go in with a plan. Yeah, I go in with a plan. What do you value most in restaurants? I think the people. Yeah. The people. Like, it's really pretty awesome. It's a really stressful job, but, like, people come together. Like, especially, like, you know, like, being there for each other.
1:05:18It's the people. Yeah. Last one. It's your last meal on earth. What are you eating? Last stuff. But I think it's going to be Dorawat. It has to be. That's your favorite dish. How do you serve? Like when you have Dorawat, what's the whole table looking like? Like, so like Dorawat, by the way, takes like, like you say, if you do it right, six to eight hours to cook. Like cooking the onions, caramelizing the burper, right? But like you have Dorawat is like, like I use African hand chicken that's been stewed for a while. and we have like hard boiled egg and cheese, like our egg and some veggies. So I like veggies.
1:05:53I add veggies to it. Of course. Yeah, yeah. Well, thank you so much for taking the Resi questionnaire. It's been so fun speaking with you. Thank you.
1:06:06This is Taste is hosted and produced by Eliza Abarbanal and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is edited by lead producer Clayton Gumbert. And supervised by Pat Stango, director of media production and development at Penguin Random House. Thanks to Shalia Harris and the production team at Penguin Random House. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Episode portraits by Louise Zergon Pomeroy. Logo design by Ellie Skrzat and Ian Dingham. Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter to keep updated on all cool things in the world of taste.
From the publisher
It was really great to have Jessica Koslow in for a conversation. Jessica is the chef and founder of Sqirl in Los Angeles, a pioneering breakfast and lunch counter that serves inventive rice bowls and jams on toast and that inspired a whole generation of all-day cafés. In this episode, we talk a bit about Jessica’s early career before going into her exceptional jam business and hearing some big news about changes at the restaurant.
And before that, we have a fun conversation with Tigist Reda, chef and owner of the popular Chicago Ethiopian restaurant Demera. Tigist completes the Resy Questionnaire, and we find out about her favorite food book, her ideal last meal on earth, and, most important, her favorite Chicago pizza.
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