In short
Podcast Summary: This Is TASTE - Episode 718
Episode Overview In the 718th episode of the podcast "This Is TASTE," hosted by Matt Rodbard, the conversation revolves around Brooks Reitz, a restaurant owner and writer. Reitz discusses his newsletter "A Small & Simple Thing," his restaurants in Charleston and New Orleans, and the importance of hospitality and design in modern dining experiences. The episode also features a discussion with Johno Morisano and Chef Mashama Bailey, partners at The Grey in Savannah, Georgia, about their collaborative approach to restaurant management and menu development.
Key Themes and Discussions
Brooks Reitz
Restaurant Insights
- Newsletter and Philosophy: Brooks Reitz shares insights from his newsletter, emphasizing a worldview centered on restaurant hospitality, tastemaking, and design.
- British Invasion in U.S. Restaurants: Reitz discusses the growing influence of British culinary practices on American dining, highlighting new establishments that prioritize simplicity and community engagement.
- Houston's/Hillstone Training Manual:
- Reitz recently acquired this highly sought-after training manual, which he admires for its rigor and discipline in restaurant training.
- He notes that while he appreciates the manual's structure, the level of detail it demands is not something he believes can be effectively implemented in his existing restaurants.
Johno Morisano and Chef Mashama Bailey
Collaborative Approach
- Celebrating Local Flavor: The duo discuss how The Grey focuses on local ingredients and consistency in their offerings, which has helped them maintain a loyal customer base over 11 years.
- Menu Development and Regulars:
- They emphasize the importance of local regulars and creating dishes that resonate with the community.
- Reitz highlights the significance of regulars in a restaurant's success, suggesting that familiarity and personal connections can enhance the dining experience.
The Nature of Hospitality
- Building Relationships: Both Reitz and the duo from The Grey stress the importance of building relationships with guests as a means to enhance the hospitality experience.
- The Role of Regulars: They discuss how regular patrons can be more valuable than new customers, often receiving special treatment for their loyalty.
Personal Reflections on Food
- Home Cooking: Reitz shares his passion for simple home cooking and the importance of approachable ingredients in everyday meals. His approach encourages introducing children to a diverse range of vegetables and flavors.
- Skin Care and Well-being: He discusses the importance of self-care and wellness, including skin care, revealing a growing cultural acceptance of men taking care of their personal grooming.
Culinary Recommendations
- Food Preferences: Reitz shares his favorite foods, including bananas, and offers critiques on vegetables like rutabaga, which he finds unpalatable.
- Regular Dining Habits: He advises listeners on how to become regulars at restaurants by being personable, expressing appreciation, and building connections with staff.
Conclusion The episode provides a deep dive into the minds of modern restaurateurs, exploring themes of hospitality, community, and personal connection within the dining industry. Reitz, Morisano, and Bailey illustrate how these elements contribute to creating memorable and successful dining experiences. The discussion also highlights the importance of simplicity in both home cooking and professional dining, reminding listeners that food is, at its core, about enjoyment and connection.
Key Takeaways
- Hospitality is about relationships: Building connections with regulars can enhance the dining experience and benefit restaurant success.
- Simplicity in food: Emphasizing approachable, locally sourced ingredients can resonate with diners and create lasting memories.
- Culinary trends: The British influence on American dining is creating a shift towards simpler, community-focused dining experiences.
- Personal care is important: Emphasizing the importance of self-care, including skincare and nutrition, can contribute to overall well-being and confidence.
---
This structured summary captures the essence of the episode while highlighting significant discussions and insights shared by the guests.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOSetting the Stage for Collaboration
1:12 to 1:40
An overview of the episode's themes, focusing on restaurant hospitality and creativity.
“In this great conversation, we talk about Brooks' unique worldview, built around restaurant hospitality, taste-making, the not-annoying kind, and design.”
The Grey's Restaurant Philosophy
1:40 to 4:00
Jono and Mashama discuss their approach to creating a local dining experience in Savannah.
“In this resi interview, I chat with the pair about how they think about the big picture together and bounce around menu ideas sometimes not together.”
Signature Dishes and Community Impact
4:00 to 6:12
Mashama shares insights on menu consistency and community favorites at The Grey.
“And I really think that's how it became a standby.”
Creative Dish Pairings
6:12 to 7:30
Explore the unique dish of foie gras and grits and its cultural significance.
“And it was like we just kind of kept it on, and it became a dish that we became known for.”
Regulars and Personal Connections
7:30 to 11:22
A heartfelt look at the importance of regulars like the McCorkles in a restaurant's success.
“This is going to be like the second podcast in a couple of weeks where the McCorkles get shouted out.”
Collaboration Between Chef and Management
11:22 to 14:01
Mashama and Jono discuss their collaboration process and how they adapt to feedback.
“butchers the chicken, pounds out the schnitzel, like in rapid fire fashion, gets it, breads it, gets it in the fryer, gets it to Philip.”
Feedback and Culinary Experience
14:01 to 16:53
Learn how restaurant feedback drives creativity and guest experience.
“And a lot of times I don't want to hear it.”
Adapting to Time Zones
16:54 to 18:51
Discover the challenges of managing restaurants across time zones.
“and very exciting that you can spend this much time on both restaurants at the same time.”
Envisioning the Next Decade
18:52 to 21:22
Explore the strategic growth plans for the restaurant brand.
“I think that we lean into this sort of culture we've created of relevance, right?”
Building a Strong Culinary Team
21:23 to 22:43
Understand the importance of team dynamics in restaurant success.
“Yeah, I mean, I agree a lot with what he just said.”
Show all 27 chapters
Brooks Reitz on Restaurant Culture
25:40 to 28:00
A conversation covering Brooks' writing and experiences in the restaurant world.
“And also just talk a little bit about restaurant world and your life in Charleston mostly.”
Brooks Reitz: Defining a Multi-Hyphenate Life
28:00 to 29:19
Explore how Brooks Reitz describes his multifaceted career and passions.
“So I think your subsec works so well because you can kind of flex between the fashion world, the entertainment world, and of course the food world, and also like a little bit of like the entrepreneurial tech world.”
The Curiosity Behind Recommendations
29:20 to 31:29
Brooks shares his enthusiasm for recommendations and personal experiences with readers.
“And I think in your writing, you love giving recommendations, which I think is part of an ecosystem of Substack.”
The Holy Grail of Restaurant Training Manuals
31:30 to 33:58
Brooks discusses the significance of Houston's Training Manual and his experience obtaining it.
“Yeah, I'm not trying to position myself as the restaurant guy.”
Insights from Houston's Training Manual
33:59 to 36:00
Delve into the surprising details and scripting techniques found in the training manual.
“It's something that in order to be as detailed as they have been in this manual, you have to start from the ground for as a new restaurateur.”
Brooks Reitz's Restaurant Philosophy
36:01 to 37:36
Brooks elaborates on his unique philosophy towards restaurant operations and training.
“he writes about his book, you know, just, like, about kind of, like, scripting, just, like, vernacular vocabulary.”
The British Invasion in U.S. Dining
37:37 to 40:55
Explore the trend of British culinary influences infiltrating American dining scenes.
“And you recently have covered this pending British invasion to the U.S., which I know, which we've talked about on this show.”
Creating Authentic Pub Vibes in the U.S.
40:56 to 42:00
Brooks discusses how to capture the essence of British pubs while in the U.S.
“How do you nail the aesthetic in the U.S.?”
Crafting a Unique Restaurant Concept
42:00 to 44:32
Learn how Brooks Reitz creates a unique narrative and atmosphere for his New Orleans pub.
“Or and you can't you got to antique some stuff to look or buy old stuff.”
Understanding the New Orleans Market
44:32 to 46:46
Discover the challenges and strategies for attracting tourists versus locals in New Orleans dining.
“New Orleans is a lot bigger than Charleston.”
Becoming a Regular at Restaurants
46:46 to 50:24
Find out how to become a valued regular at your favorite restaurants with simple steps.
“Because I think in 2026, many are going to realize that clout chasing and going to only new and we're in this era of maybe bricking our phones and digital is bad.”
Celebrating Home Cooking and Local Ingredients
50:24 to 51:12
Explore the importance of local ingredients and home cooking through Brooks' personal stories.
“Great advice about being intentional with the GM or the person working the front to say, I'd like to come here more.”
Investing in Food Culture: Blackbird Explained
56:33 to 1:02:04
Brooks discusses his investment in Blackbird, a customer loyalty and payments app.
“I describe it, you know, you can really get into the weeds on Blackbird because there's a whole Web3 blockchain technology underpinning Blackbird that has a lot of implications.”
The Importance of Skincare for Men
1:02:04 to 1:06:21
Brooks shares his journey with skincare and why it's important for well-being.
“I want to ask you about skincare and beauty.”
Rapid Fire Taste Check with Brooks
1:06:21 to 1:10:01
A quick taste check where Brooks shares his favorite fruits, vegetables, and desserts.
“We need to loop a skincare brand in to advertise on this episode.”
Nostalgia for Food: Rock-A-Bar and Fast Food Experiences
1:10:01 to 1:12:00
Explore the host's childhood memories of a local pizzeria and thoughts on fast food.
“I grew up in Kentucky, right on the border of Evansville, Indiana.”
The Perfect Tuna Salad Sandwich
1:12:01 to 1:13:18
Delve into the host’s favorite sandwich choices and personal connections to food.
“This is, I'm so curious as to what the comments will say.”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00This episode is brought to you by Resi and American Express. Resi is a digital platform that connects restaurants to restaurant lovers by elevating dining experiences, providing original industry content, and helping to fill some of the country's most exciting dining rooms. Because restaurants have always been more than just places to eat. The amazing world of restaurants is just a few taps away in the Resi app and at resi.com.
0:31where a regular is really going to shine is popping in on tuesday at 5 30 and showing me that love midweek and that is a person then that i would bend over backwards to to to book on the weekend or the last minute table. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbarg.
0:59Brooks Reitz writes the wonderful newsletter, A Small and Simple Thing, which has become one of my favorite reads. He also runs restaurants in Charleston and New Orleans, including Leon's Oyster Shop, Little Jack's Tavern, Melfi's, and The Bell. In this great conversation, we talk about Brooks' unique worldview, built around restaurant hospitality, taste-making, the not-annoying kind, and design. We talk about the recent British invasion of restaurants in America and his acquisition of the coveted Houston's Hillstone Training Manual. And before that, I have a great conversation with Jono Morisano and Chef Mashama Bailey, partners at The Grey, an acclaimed and progressive restaurant located in historic downtown Savannah, Georgia.
1:40In this resi interview, I chat with the pair about how they think about the big picture together and bounce around menu ideas sometimes not together. It's an enlightening and entertaining conversation about collaborating in a modern dining setting. I hope you enjoy this episode.
2:00Mashama and Janna, welcome to This is Taste. How are you guys doing? Tired, Matt. Tired. I'm tired. Mashama, how are you doing? I'm alive. For a little context, Jono and I are in New York. Mashana is in Paris. But Mashana, you flew in from Florida. So like you guys, the time zones are all over the place right now. It's all fungible right now. It's all fungible. Yeah. We are going to talk about The Grey as a resi standby. Because right now, there's no restaurant in the South that really – there's no restaurant that doesn't have this reputation for hospitality. Just from what I hear, I was there three years ago.
2:40and you've been operating for over a decade. Today is 11 years. Today is 11 years. Well, wow. December 18th. Well, I mean, so how have you gotten here? Let me ask you first, Jono. How have you gotten 11 years into being this standby where people come in for the hospitality? I mean, I always give the same sort of boring answer, which is I think we always set out to be a local restaurant, right? We never aspire to be anything more than the place that if you live in Savannah, you would go to, you know, once a week or twice a week, you know. And we, you know, we have this philosophy and this ethos that our locals and our regulars are the folks who keep us in business.
3:29And, you know, I think as New Yorkers, Michelle and I both being New Yorkers, you have that place in your neighborhood that you go to. And, you know, people say to you, where do you eat? You know, you're a restaurateur. Where do you eat in New York? It's like no place you would want to go to where you know because I just go to the place that I'm comfortable in. And we tried to build the gray to be a restaurant that you're comfortable in. And if you were visiting Savannah, you kind of came to see where the locals hang out and, you know, have a drink in the diner bar or, you know, eat some food in the back.
4:00And I really think that's how it became a standby. Mashama, let me ask you as a chef about the cuisine right now as we stand at the Gray. What can guests expect from visiting right now? Things to be really local. We're really aiming and striving for consistency right now. And we're also bringing back dishes that we've done for the last 11 years. So favorites for the local community. We support local farmers, and we try to be consistent. And I think that's what guests can expect from the kitchen. 11 years in, is there a dish that you just can't take off the menu for your regulars? There's a few of them.
4:50No, but you take every dish off. Oh, no. I love—you have to take dishes off. She loves ripping dishes away from guests. Well, right out of the hands while they're still eating. You have to switch it up. You just have to. It's good for the team. It's good for morale. And it's good for the guests, quite frankly. Things I take off the menu and they get pissed off about. Probably the chicken country captain. We do this version of this low country chicken dish. And we do it on a spatchcock chicken. And we take this sauce and cook it for like 24 hours. And it's just like really delicious and homey. We do a ribeye from De Braga.
5:33Super simple. Super clean. It's just good quality meat with some butter on top. And we took that off the menu and people protest. We kind of have to have it on the menu. And the first time we put, we did this dish a couple of New Year's Eves ago, several New Year's Eves ago. And it was the foie and grits dish. And took that dish off the menu and they were like rioting in the streets. So that, they, the local community really sort of like helped to bring that dish into realization. because it was just kind of like this thing we were playing around with, but they loved it. And it was like we just kind of kept it on, and it became a dish that we became known for.
6:16Let me ask you, foie gras and grits. I mean, this is like a creative pairing and something I've never heard of. How does this come together on the plate? Well, the original dish is liver and grits, liver, gravy, and grits. Yeah. And we were building a New Year's Eve menu, and I just kind of had a taste for that dish. I had it at a local restaurant a couple of weeks before that, and I was like, we should do something with it. And around Christmas time in Paris, in France, foie gras is really on everyone's table. They have it around Christmas time, they have it for New Year's Eve. So just bringing the holiday together with that traditional dish, I thought it just made a lot of sense.
7:05So that's how it was born. Is there any sweet component at all or acidic component with it? Yeah. So we do a mustarda with it. And so we'll do, well, it depends on the season, but I think we first did it with like a kumquat or a citrus mustarda. Makes perfect sense. Loquats? Loquats. A kumquat. Oh, right, right. That's nice. Sounds delicious. John, let me ask you, who are your regulars at the Gray? The McCorkles. Oh, tell me all about the McCorkles. Let's shout them out. First off, great. This is going to be like the second podcast in a couple of weeks where the McCorkles get shouted out. Well, let's give them the most press.
7:46We'll do 30 minutes in the McCorkles. The McCorkles are a couple, live downtown. they are regulars at the gray and have been i think from the first day maybe like a year in they sit at um seats 12 and 13 every friday night at 6 p.m at the gate to bar if they're in town which mostly they are if they're not in town they're in paris because they love paris and we have a restaurant in paris and they've become regulars there um and the mccorkles are just like the bombiest of bomb people. He's a lawyer. She's a character is the best way to describe Debbie. Debbie and Philip just like kind of set the stage.
8:26But beyond them, it's like, you know, downtown Savannah, it's downtown Savannahans, right? It's, you know, there's, you know, Savannah has become like, there's Savannahans down there, but there's also a lot of like snowbirds from Chicago or the Midwest and, you know, the East Coast. And downtown Savannah is really great if you're a city person, New Yorker, because you walk everywhere, you don't need a car, if that's the lifestyle you're used to. So our regulars tend to be those folks. SCAD, Savannah College of Orton Design, you know, the professorship from that and the administration, big regulars.
9:04Yeah, I mean. My parents. Yeah, exactly. Exactly. I was going to say Carol, but Mishama's parents are regulars. Carol's my wife. She's a regular. Yeah, Mishama's parents are in there. Mishama, tell me about your parents. I mean, is there a certain style of service that they expect from their daughter? Yes. Our mother was, our mom's like, dinner was great, but no. They are like my biggest critic. They will tell us when we are not hitting on all cylinders. But they recently moved to Savannah. it was right it was during COVID they moved in 2021 or 2022 and so really the last two or three years they've just been in there once a month maybe twice a month and if something's not right she'll tell me she's always asking me about the staff or who's this person if she goes in the restaurant and they don't know who she is she'll get she'll call me and tell me your mom is looking for the goss it sounds like a little restaurant yeah i love that it's great she keeps it she keeps me honest which is awesome yeah it's great i mean what is so what are some of the like the mccorkles or or mashama's mom what what are what are they ordering is there like a go-to dish oh the mccorkles they came in um two weeks ago into the diner bar for on a wednesday night for glass of champagne and schnitzel yeah chicken schnitzel or pork schnitzel chicken schnitzel chicken schnitzel and they they always get chicken schnitzel mashed potatoes mashed potatoes something else right so when they don't do their friday night you know the diner bar has always has like a slightly more casual menu and the night they got there mashama had just ripped the chicken schnitzel off the menu out from under them.
10:52And Philip is particular. He's a creature of habit. And he doesn't get like sad. He gets pissed off, right? So he's like, what do you mean there's no chicken schnitzel? It's like, well, we took it off the menu. And he just like, he's 75 something years old and he pouts, right? And he gets pissed off and he's pouting. And word makes it into Eric in the kitchen that Philip McCorkle's in the diner bar and there's no chicken schnitzel. Eric goes upstairs, butchers the chicken, pounds out the schnitzel, like in rapid fire fashion, gets it, breads it, gets it in the fryer, gets it to Philip. And like, by the time Philip had made it into the main diner, because now Philip is like, I'm not eating in the diner bar now.
11:35We're going to the main dining room. By the time he gets into the main dining room, it hits as soon as he sits down and Philip was happy again. Wow. I guess being a successful trial attorney, you know, you get what you want you get your way but i i think it's such a credit to you the two of you and your staff for for really honoring oh yeah your regulars yeah and and really doing the work like going up and butchering that chicken yeah no eric i mean listen eric you know you know you know you have a successful team when they do what you would have done right because that's what masham and I would have done if we were in the restaurant.
12:13And when they're doing that and no one's directing them to do that, they're just going, this is our brand of hospitality. This is our brand of service. You know, that's kind of that goose bumpy moment. Yeah. Mashama, let me ask you about just collaboration with Jono. I mean, you have such a tight collaboration process. Your book was amazing. Really love that. The way that you. Yeah, absolutely. The way that you were able to weave these stories together. It's not a cookbook. It's more of a narrative. And there's a lot said in your collaboration process. But how do you as the chef work with Jono on these big ideas?
12:52Yeah, Mishama. Well, we've evolved a lot over the past 11 years. And I think really now it's an idea. We'll have a conversation and I'll tell them what I'm thinking about. But mostly I'm sort of working with my team, trying to, you know, work on recipes, figure out different dishes. And then when I have an idea or a spark of an idea, I'll have a conversation with Jono and I'll say, well, you know, I've been thinking about this or thinking about that. Or he'll come to me and say, well, you know, I was in a restaurant or I read this review and I think we're weak here and I think we need some focus there.
13:37And then we'll start to kind of like collaborate around that particular thing and see if there's more, if there's even something there to work on or if it's just time to kind of like do a seasonal change or something like that. So I think like it's really about like he's really in the front of house. Like he's the guest, right? He takes it on as the guest, that feedback as the guest, and he'll come to me. And a lot of times I don't want to hear it. A lot of times I'm like, it's fine. What are you worried about? It's not a big deal. And then sometimes I'm open to it because I'm also feeling like, you know, The cooks aren't as passionate about something or something's not quite sort of meshing.
14:23So we'll look at that. And then that's kind of where it starts to get creative. And we start to think of how to make it better, not only for the guests, but also for the staff. Because if the team doesn't love a dish or love a step of service or something, the guests feel it. And we get feedback from it. How do you give notes on the culinary side, Jonu? like i literally give notes you literally give yeah like i'll like send a text message i'll send an email like so i do using paris as an example we're trying to get our steps of service down we're trying to get our plates in order so i and i'm there a lot right now so i will go like i spend most of my days in the restaurant or between the restaurant and my apartment depending on my call schedule and I'll go and specifically sit and eat dinner, right?
15:15With my blue notebook, which is somewhere around here. And I will just sit there and I will just take notes. And then, you know, I'll compile them all the next morning and I'll just send them out and there'll be a compilation of front of house notes, um, guest experience, you know, what I'm seeing guests are experiencing, food notes, you know, the whole nine yards, like lighting, music, the whole bit. Because what Shama said earlier about, you know, I come at it as a guest. It's like, I always find that, you know, when you're tasting food in the kitchen and every cook should be tasting food in the kitchen all the time, every time, like, you know, you take a bite of something and you go, oh, that salt's like slightly high, right?
15:59And, or slightly low. And as a guest, Your first bite, you'll go, oh, that salt's slightly higher, slightly low. But by your fifth or sixth bite, if the salt is too high, like it's starting to burn your lips, it's starting to burn your mouth. And that's the guest experience, right? And Shama said something this morning in a call we were on about the gray, giving the chefs enough bandwidth where they can start to experience the food that they're cooking as guests so that they can see what that means to experience it like that. and understand that something that seems slightly oversalted when you're just tasting a sauce versus when you're eating an entire plate of food is something that young chefs don't really grok and they need to, yeah.
16:47How do you make this work, this France to Savannah call schedule, note schedule? It's exhausting. I don't even know how we're doing it. We're still figuring it out. It's exciting though. It's very, very cool. and very exciting that you can spend this much time on both restaurants at the same time. I find we've just like, because we've both been in Paris so much, we just like front load the US part of the day. So like being here in the States for the last couple of days, I look at my watch at three o 'clock and I'm like, I'm done because I've had all my meetings already now in paris masham is it's uh it's 8 30 almost in paris for mashama so she's still going and that's kind of like in paris we're running really long days yeah and in the states you know unless we're going to the restaurant and you know i'm not in savannah right now so i'm not going to the restaurant after this but like it wraps up pretty early because we're so front loading the days um uh u.s time i'm having the opposite effect i think you know the build out of the restaurant I think has gotten Jono very used to having a front loaded day.
18:01And I think he just wakes up a lot earlier than I do. And when I came home in November for a couple of weeks, and it was really difficult for me to try to keep up with the day in Paris, because at 8 a.m. it's already in the afternoon, you know, almost. What time is it? Whatever. It's like late. Yeah, it's 2.30 here. It's late. No, but I'm saying like 8 a.m. Eastern Standard is already in the afternoon in Paris, right? So it's really kind of like, I just found it really difficult for me to sort of do that reverse time swap. I just haven't gotten used to it yet. Yesterday morning, I was on the phone with RGM at 3.30 a.m.
18:46New York time. Yeah, it's tough. It's a morning call in Paris. Let's go back to the grave. How do you look at your next decade? I think that we lean into this sort of culture we've created of relevance, right? Of, you know, my wife has a saying that when people turn around 40, they go one of two ways. They sort of like retract a little bit or they really open up. And I think that one of the things that Misham and I, and I think partially through the relationship that we've developed, is we've both gotten more broad-minded as we've gotten older, largely through this relationship and through the gray.
19:36I was so – I hated so many more things when I was 20 or was judgmental of or intolerant of music, you know, whatever, right? Like people doing things a different way. And there's almost nothing at this point that I judge. Like I'm just like, you know, if you want to do it, do it. Like that's cool. And I think that that's the attitude that we bring to the gray and our growth. Our growth as humans, our growth as a business, you know, gray spaces has become our overarching brand. brand. We talked, you and I were talking about before the podcast, what happened to the gray market, right, which was a victim of COVID.
20:19We're moving the gray market to an online thing, you know, where we're starting to create consumer packaged goods. You'll see a lot more of that in 2026. I think that the continued growth of the brand and this idea of Southern food on the move and showing up in places that you wouldn't think about it, like an American Express Centurion Lounge, you know, an American Express and Resi being great partners of ours and have been great partners of ours for the last five years, I think. I think showing up in unexpected places, Paris, I think that's unexpected. So for the next decade, I just see a lot more of that.
20:58And I see for me and Mishama personally, at least I hope, that the growth feels more controlled than it has because we're building a really good team around us to be able to support that growth function. Mishama in particular has a really good, she's starting to form a really good culinary team around her to support that growth. So that's what I see the next decade. I like that answer, Mishama, the next decade for yourself. How do you see it? Yeah, I mean, I agree a lot with what he just said. Particularly like the growth of the team. I think the first 11 years, it was Jono and me kind of like doing a lot of the work.
21:37You know, Jono managing the business, managing the managers, and myself like really hands-on in the kitchen working with the team day in and day out. And I think in the last, you know, three years, I've been more conceptual. And so now that we've expanded to Paris and And we're expanding the great spaces and the great market brand and going into consumer goods and all that stuff can be everywhere all the time. So building a team and building a really strong culinary team and front of house team, I think, is really going to take up a lot of the next 10 years, I think. Because we ultimately want to have a business that people feel proud to be in.
22:29And like Jono said earlier, really, you know, you have a good team if they think of it as their own, if they run the business like it's their own. And I think that those are the type of people that we want to foster under us so we can continue to grow. Jono and Mashama, thank you so much for joining us today. Thanks, Matt. This was great. Thank you. This was fun.
22:52From February 20th to March 7th, dive into Canada's biggest culinary festival, Montreal en Lumière. An exclusive partnership with the McCord Stewart Museum and its exhibition, On the Menu Montreal, a restaurant story, the 2026 festival invites food lovers on a flavorful journey through time. Montreal's top restaurateurs will reimagine 65 years of the city's iconic astronomy, crafting inventive, nostalgia-inspired dishes with a modern twist. Prepare your palate. World-renowned chefs, including several Michelin-starred talents, will team up with over 80 of Montreal's finest local chefs to create unforgettable, one-of-a-kind menus.
23:33The full program is available at montrealonlumiere.com, presented by Lotto Quebec in collaboration with National Bank. This episode is brought to you by Masterclass. It's New Year, New You season, and I can say that I'm looking to improve some things in my daily life. With Masterclass, this is dead simple, and you can learn from the best to become your best. With plans starting at$10 a month, billed annually, you get unlimited access to over 200 classes taught by the world's best business leaders, writers, chefs, and much more. Negotiate your next raise with lessons from super agent Rich Paul, or learn the art of telling a great story with Moneyball author, Michael Lewis.
24:15And let's talk about the cooking classes for a second. They are so well done and taught by some of the world's most decorated chefs, including Aaron Franklin, Roy Choi, Alice Waters, and Sola Elwayli, showing you how to mix creativity and mastery while serving breakfast all day. And right now, our listeners get an additional 15 % off any annual membership at masterclass.com slash tastecooking. That's 15 % off at masterclass.com slash tastecooking. masterclass.com slash taste cooking Brooks writes welcome to this is taste it's just a long time coming we've been pals for a long time I'm psyched to be here truly well you were so generous I met you in 2016 you invited Dookie and I down to do an event at Leon's and Little Jack's Little Jack's because we changed the name to Little Dookies for the night that's right Little Dookies and we funny I love that and we did a dinner and signed some books and like Darius Rucker shows up Yep, totally.
25:16Which was like rad. Yeah, actually, so did Kristen Kish, I think, was there. There was a crew that turned out for that, as I recall. Yeah, it was really fun to meet you then. And then over the years, we've stayed in touch. But honestly, Brooks, you kind of reentered my life through your sub stack. You are great. Love to hear that. You're great. Thank you. I want this conversation to kind of be broken into a conversation about some of your recent writing, which are great topics you've covered. And also just talk a little bit about restaurant world and your life in Charleston mostly. But you come to New York a lot and you write about this.
25:55You kind of have a vibe where you hear every couple months. And so I always want to hear what's your New York rotation like right now restaurant wise? Great question. After this podcast, I'm having lunch at Borgo. That'll be my fourth time there. which is you know I am someone typically I mostly stay in Manhattan and I know there is so much of course I've been to Brooklyn countless times but I don't get over there as much as I feel as though I should as a food enthusiast restaurant lover but my rotation it's it's a lot of the usual suspects King is a favorite my wife and I love lunch at King I love Cafe Altro Paradiso and Ignacio I've been a big fan of his cooking and him for a long time.
26:48You know, we were regulars, I would say, for many years at Via Corotta until it, you know, it's now it's very, very busy. When we go, we still do go, but it's like we get there at 11 on a Tuesday and have a lunch in the window. I would say other favorites. this is a deep cut that's not I wouldn't necessarily send people to this place but we love it is Suin in the East Village macrobiotic yeah those Suin bowls are if you've lived here long enough you had your Suin bowl totally and we have this like little hack where if we're here for a longer period of time and we're being more social and we're like out late and we're having drinks we'll have a day or a night where we do Suin and the Russian and Turkish baths and that is like the best reset to like sauna eat a macrobiotic bowl and then go to sleep.
27:41So that's like the quick hits. King, Via, Altro Paradiso, Il Bucco we like. I like that. Oh, Superiority Burger as well. My man, my man. We're big lovers of his food. Definitely. So I think your subsec works so well because you can kind of flex between the fashion world, the entertainment world, and of course the food world, and also like a little bit of like the entrepreneurial tech world. You know, I just wanted to ask you, Brooks, like how do you describe what you do? I'm looking for a better way. I just, you know, I call myself an entrepreneur. Yeah. And I think that's the best kind of catch-all term.
28:32But, you know, I'm doing the writing. I'm operating my own restaurants. I'm a partner with my wife in our clothing brand, and we manufacture here in New York, which is why we are here quite often. And I'm doing the writing, and I'm doing some investing. So I don't know. I find the term multi-hyphenate to be pretentious and annoying. It's like when someone says they're a creative director, I am always, like, sort of a little skeptical. So I wouldn't dare say that. But I'm just dabbling in the things that I love and that I'm interested in. Yeah, I think the slashy multi-hyphenate doesn't really capture what you do.
29:13But I think you have an infinite curiosity and you drive for excellence with no ego. That's my read of you. I appreciate that. It's the truth. And I think in your writing, you love giving recommendations, which I think is part of an ecosystem of Substack. But you do it in a way that's not like, here's the shit that I like that's cool. It's more like, I want you, Reader, to have a better life. I want you, Reader, to have great British toothpaste. Yeah. And in fact, I went right to Amazon when you wrote about toothpaste, which I think was like maybe two years ago. Yeah. And like changed the way I— I brush my teeth.
Read the full transcript
29:51I brush my teeth like many times a day. And thank you, brother. I love that. Well, I appreciate you saying that. You know, I'm from Kentucky. I'm from a small town in Kentucky. And I grew up very culture obsessed because I won't say there was no culture in my town. There was culture there. But I was like going to Barnes & Noble with my friends and like reading GQ or reading film magazines and curious about the world outside of my little, you know, rural existence. and I've never lost that curiosity or excitement. I still get giddy when the plane is about to land in New York City. I'm not jaded by that stuff.
30:39I'm like, there's so much to experience and learn about and I'm just like curious and when I find stuff that's good, I like to get, I get worked up and I like to share it with people. Yeah, you have like this enthusiasm that pours off the page. I mean, it really does. I want to hear a little bit about your restaurants in Charleston and New Orleans. A little bit about you keep it in the background of your writing. You're not like a restaurant guy, but you clearly have a very busy life with those restaurants. Yeah, I tried to make this in my newsletter. I touch on the restaurants, and obviously a lot of it is about food, but I didn't want to make it like an industry restaurant-y newsletter.
31:24also because I didn't want to talk about my own restaurants too much because I don't know. I don't know if I can explain why. You don't want to be Will Gadara. Yeah, I'm not trying to position myself as the restaurant guy. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And so I think that is the reason why. Also because, you know, food, well, media in general, or anyone, journalists and stuff, it's easy. you want to put somebody into a tidy box and describe them easily. Right. And I've always been resistant to that. I'm kind of like, I'm don't just I'm not just don't call me a restaurateur because there's I do a lot of different things and that doesn't define me.
32:06And so I sort of always push against that a little bit. Yeah. And I have so many other interests that I like to. It's an it's an I have an outlet for the restaurant stuff. It's my restaurants. And so So Substack is my outlet to talk about, you know, art and travel and style and architecture and all that stuff. And history as well. I want to hear about getting your hands on the Houston's Training Manual, which you've written a little bit about. I think you told me offline about that. So I didn't know if you wanted to go public, but I think you wrote about it. Yeah, I did. Well, I wrote. I did an Instagram post.
32:44Okay. It went viral. Did it? I haven't checked in a long time. It was shared some thousand, some odd times. I had so many followers from that post, which I was not expecting. And I mean, it must have been 70 people that sent me DMs to see if I would share the manual with them. But of course, I was like, no, because I'm not trying to get tracked down. Well, tell us the story about getting your hands on it, because there's a whole backstory. Basically, I've always been – I appreciate Houston's Hillstone as a business model and as a model of efficiency and consistency. And so I've been vocal about that not only kind of in person when I'm talking to someone but also in my writing.
33:31and someone who I know who had worked for Houston's said to me one time, you know, I worked for Houston's in Florida and I still have the manual. Do you want it? I'm like, are you kidding me? That's like the holy grail of restaurant training handbooks. And so they gave it to me. then um when i posted about it actually someone else i knew sent me a note and was like hey i have some of their some additional manuals from another property i'll send to you and that's how i uh that's how i came into them what i can say is after getting those manuals and reading through them we have our own pretty exhaustive manual for our restaurants and i thought oh there'll be some stuff to glean from this, you know, Houston's manual, but the discipline their training program requires is frankly a discipline that I'm not capable of, nor do I think.
34:37It's something that in order to be as detailed as they have been in this manual, you have to start from the ground for as a new restaurateur. You can't 10 years in be like, we're going to shift to this type of model. It's culturally so baked into what they do that it was more I read it in admiration, but I didn't, there was nothing that I could really take from. It wasn't like a best practice being put into place after it. But when digging into this manual, were there any surprises? Were there any moments in it where you're like, that is brilliant? Just the level of specificity in terms of, and I get into some of this in my own manuals, but it's like they'll write scripts for their people.
35:21So it's kind of like when you get this question, this is exactly word for word how you respond. They're not leaving it up to that person to sort of like wrap at the table. It's a canned response. And I found that very interesting. And that is the kind of like granular detail you have to get into to deliver a service experience like they deliver at that place. Yeah. Descript your staff is a new level, but I think it's definitely being used throughout our restaurant world. You sometimes feel like— Oh, that you're getting the canned responses? I feel—and I think, like, there's some nuance in the canned, but it's like—I mean, Will has—second Will Get Your Reference, he writes about his book, you know, just, like, about kind of, like, scripting, just, like, vernacular vocabulary.
36:07Yeah, what's—what, like, Keith's gotten into this on Instagram, words that you're not allowed to say in his restaurant. I know, I think there was some—David Chang at one point had, like words that were outlawed in his spots. I definitely in my, in our training manuals, I give suggestions for ways to handle things. And I really like, we have pages where it's like how to handle when things go wrong, what to, what to do. And I, you know, give suggestions, but it's not, you know, it's, it's not sort of a command of this is exactly how you respond. I'm like react in the moment, read the guest. Maybe there are more casual guests.
36:46Maybe they're a little older and they like a little bit more, you know, to dress it up a touch and be a little bit more formal. But that stuff really interests me. I love getting into all that. Systems are wonderful to dig into. I imagine like, you know, like a nuclear submarine when you're like going through the code book. Yes. Like during an attack. Like I imagine the Houston staff doing that kind of work. Dude, the nuclear code book is probably shorter than the Hillstone train manual. It's so great. And I hope one day you could collaborate on getting that published somewhere. Yeah. A lot of people have asked me about my manual.
37:25Sure. And a lot of it is philosophy more than specific to my restaurants, you know. And I think it could be super useful to other restaurateurs out there. Well, Brooks, I want to get into some of your writing. And you recently have covered this pending British invasion to the U.S., which I know, which we've talked about on this show. And British Invasion meaning like just British food and sensibilities kind of infiltrating all styles of dining. I mean, Wilds in Los Angeles, for example, I cannot wait to visit is near the top of my list. We think about Dame and Lourdes in New York. And I think like we're going to, I'm going to call this the Anglophile portion because you've been not shy about your love of the UK.
38:08You've written about not just London, but outside of the country. and you really have a connection there. And I just want to first just ask you about this British invasion. What is happening right now? It's coming. So, you know, I think we're in this phase where you have the next generation of the St. John acolytes, certainly in London, right, that are cooking this highly seasonal, simple food that's prioritizing ingredients. And so in London, you're seeing a lot of this like next wave of chefs opening that had worked for Fergus Henderson or worked in, you know, under Margot Henderson at Rochelle Canteen.
38:51And you're seeing that kind of, I think, combined with this new pub renaissance in London as well. You have the Devonshire, which is selling like 20 ,000 pints of Guinness a week down in Soho that serves great food, but they're known for their Guinness. As featured in the first episode of the fourth season of The Industry, I believe. Oh, I need to watch it. Love that show. That show is great. Devonshire's in there. I think so. Very cool. Okay. I'll be watching that when I get home. So you've got that happening and you have this other group, the public house group that's opening these pubs. They sort of like new pubs appealing to the younger generation.
39:26The Pelican, the Heart, they have the Fat Badger, so on and so forth. then stateside you know what i think ultimately what i think it's a reaction to pubs are simple places they're community-minded places they're free of gimmicks and trickery they look simple they feel comfortable they're all about community and they are resistant in my opinion to this like gimmickry trickery of like social media tick tockification of a lot of restaurants where there's like people you feel as though this restaurant was designed for the Instagram social media moment or this dish is designed for the visual kapow rather than like, is this nourishing and tasty?
40:13And so I think we're primed for this sort of like pubification in the States on the heels of like Guinness booming worldwide. And then, you know, I've got the bell. You have the Wren in Baltimore. You have Wilds in L.A. You have Thomas Straker coming over from London, opening in the old Lucky Strike space. You have Jesse and Annie opening Dean's, the sort of seafood-focused pub. And they've called out Guinness as being a thing. You know, of course, the Lords and Dame crew. So I just think we're—this is a year for that to see a little bit more of that. and maybe some of the simplicity that is inherent in a British pub.
41:01How do you nail the aesthetic in the U.S.? How do you, like, export those vibes, those immaculate vibes? That's such a good question. It's hard, man. Well, a huge part of the pub vibe are the people. Sure. And, you know, you go through London after work, and you've got the, you know, the dudes crushing pints on the street, And you can't export that, unfortunately. And that cultural sensibility of boozing after work, which is alive and well in London. What you can export, I think, is, you know, there's like there are some sort of like aesthetic touch, you know, some touches like, you know, woodwork and crown molding and, you know, wooden chairs.
41:48And this kind of like classic, simple sort of it's not the you know, you have like the bistro look. And then there's this like specific pub look. And I don't know how to describe it other than you know it when you see it. It's a patina. I think like you can't have new wood smell. Exactly. Or and you can't you got to antique some stuff to look or buy old stuff. You know, when with the bell, the direction we decided to go in, you know, so we opened a pub in New Orleans. It by definition cannot be authentic. Right. So rather than trying to open this like replica of a pub, we really leaned into the British wit that is alive and well among the Brits.
42:28So it's a little goofy. There's a lot of like funny little sort of inside jokes. There's ephemera hanging all over, bunting, strung from the ceiling. And we invented a backstory of some British explorers who had moved to the U.S., to New Orleans, and had sort of started this little, like, explorers club in New Orleans out of our building and had gathered there, like, things they'd collected from their journeys over the years, brought them to New Orleans and basically strung them up from the ceiling and got together every week to drink pints. And that's the, like, story that's inherent in the – It's so cool.
43:06Like when you launch restaurants, do you write like almost a script? In my head. I don't ever physically write them. But I'm always there's a there we have stories about all of our restaurants. And and we use that to make decisions about everything. You know, certainly we you know, so my partner, Tim and I, we design all of our restaurants. And that's actually the part I love the most, you know, because I'm a storyteller. Yeah. Operating restaurants is not the thing I love. It's an unfortunate byproduct of owning and opening restaurants. And I've learned to, you know, get better at it. And I work with great people who are managing the day to day.
43:51But it's the design and the storytelling that like gets me pumped up. So it's like the food costs and the P &Ls maybe aren't like your jam. Not my jam at all. I'm very lucky that I have a business partner who that is her jam. Yeah. And she's very good at that. And they don't want me in there. It's a division of labor when it comes down to it. That's why partnerships are so great in restaurants. You find strengths and weaknesses and you get into your strengths. And I love the stories. I haven't been down to New Orleans in a while. So I got to check it out. How's it doing? How's the restaurant doing?
44:25We're about a year and a half in and it's going well. Well, it's been a slow start because it's a new market. New Orleans is a lot bigger than Charleston. And I think the thing I learned is that, you know, Charleston, we have the tourist in Charleston is different than the tourist in New Orleans. Now, I don't want to paint them all with the same brush. But, you know, you think about New Orleans, a lot of people coming to New Orleans are looking for the French Quarter. They're getting trash. They're eating po 'boys and fried food. and the bell is not that. You can get drunk as hell in New Orleans for a few bucks and that person is not coming to the bell.
45:10So I think it's taken time to find that because any restaurant really, the difference between just doing fine and really thriving is that extra tourist traffic. We have a great regular clientele and our neighbors show up for us big time, a lot of repeat visitors. Now we got to get that New Orleans visitor to the bell to sort of like get the gravy, so to speak. Yeah, get the SEC National Championship at the Dome. Totally. Coming in because those folks, they don't need to be drinking by the yard. No, and we, you know. They got taste. Yeah, absolutely. And we serve, I think, the best Guinness in New Orleans.
45:50Yeah. It's the first restaurant that I have TVs in. I've always been against televisions and restaurants because I'm like, it's not a sports bar. I'm not like a sports guy. But we have these like covers we design for them. So when there's not an important event on, they're covered up. But yeah, we're trying it like pubs are an everyman type of place. And so that's built into the concept, the food, the offerings, the way we communicate and connect with guests. You touched on this earlier about being a regular and regulars in your neighborhood. And I really think 2026 is going to be the year of the regular.
46:31We're seeing this bubble up. I'm reading some pieces about think pieces about regulars. Absolutely. We've been talking about the show for years and I and I think it's so important and I cannot stop repeating this is to support restaurants that have been around between two and eight to ten years. And I want to ask you about becoming a regular. Because I think in 2026, many are going to realize that clout chasing and going to only new and we're in this era of maybe bricking our phones and digital is bad. I mean, it's a great instinct to shift energy towards that. And I think being a regular is great because you don't need to post yourself at the new place to get something out of that meal.
47:13So, Brooks, how do you become a regular? It's the simplest thing in the world. is the good news for anyone who's listening who is curious about that, right? It's like you can be a regular after two visits in a way. Now, you have to follow that up with continued support, but, you know, I, so there's, you know, some restaurants, for example, I don't go out to eat much in Charleston because I love to cook. I have a young family. It just makes more sense for the cadence of our days. When I come to New York, I'm only eating out. So Borgo, for example, this will be my fourth visit today. You're underway.
47:54The last time I was there was my third visit. I connected with one of the people at the front door. I just said, like, great meal. I've been here three times. And I know Andrew, but, you know, Andrew's not always there, but he has been there several times that I've been there. You know, but you basically, you go one or two times, And then on the way out, you connect with the host or the maitre d' or the manager and you say, hey, this is my second visit. This is my third visit. I love this place. It's great. I'd like to come here more often. Is there a way that I can connect with you? Do you mind if I email you next time I want to pop in?
48:31I also think it's important to be, I can tell you as a restaurateur, I want people as regulars who are also like flexible and cool and who are not just like, look, I want to come in every Friday at 730 because I'm like, oh, geez, you know, I'd love to have you. but also everybody else does, right? I need you less Friday at 7.30. Where a regular is really going to shine is popping in on Tuesday at 5.30 and showing me that love midweek. And that is a person then that I would bend over backwards to book on the weekend or the last minute table. Because look, no matter what people tell you, every restaurant keeps a couple tables in their back pocket for that last minute VIP request.
49:21It's just, it's how it goes. Friends of the owner, you know, regulars, some celebrity in town. I mean, this happens all the time in Charleston. I get multiple texts a week. We keep tables back for our VIPs, our regulars, or, you know, like someone who maybe we don't have a relationship with, but like a comedian who's in town and wants to come to Leon's. It's like, cool, we'll slot them in before the show. But I think it's as simple as just going, connecting with someone there, being human, having a nice conversation, shaking a hand. Tipping well. Tipping well is great. Tip over 20, guys. Tip over 20.
50:02Yeah, yeah, yeah. You should always tip well. But that's not even that imperative to being a regular. You know? Yeah.
50:10So, and I definitely think that's a way to unlock. Then you get, you know, you get someone who learns your order or you get a buyback at the bar. You get that extra little love at the table. And it feels good. Great advice about being intentional with the GM or the person working the front to say, I'd like to come here more. It's great advice because, like, most good restaurants provide business cards with an email. Oh, absolutely. And once you have the email, it's like it kind of bypasses ResiNotify. For sure. We have a maitre d' at Leon's because that's our biggest, busiest restaurant. And it got to be where we needed someone whose sole job it was to control the flow of guests that sort of elevated beyond a host.
50:55And Beth is crucial to the development of regulars. And we've seen a huge change in the way we do business because of that position. Brooks, you recently wrote about Andy Boy Farm. And I wanted to talk a little bit about the home cooking on A Small and Simple Thing. Because it's not just wrecks and like cool restaurants. It's about home cooking. And I loved this. I've driven that same highway. I've been, you know, I think it was outside Salinas. And I see the farm that, you know, is the place where my broccoli rabe comes from. Totally. And you channeled this energy that I'm really familiar with that, like, I want to pay tribute to this thing that we know about in the world.
51:41We see the imagery, such iconic graphics there with Andy Boy, but you make a recipe around it. Tell me about what inspired this great little recipe you wrote. Yeah, I appreciate that. That was a lot of fun to write. We spent the summer in California. We were driving from Los Alamos, I think. We went to Bells. Bells, yeah. And we're on our way to Carmel by the sea. And we went through this little town off of the 101. And it was these fields of broccoli rabe or, you know, romaine and all the stuff they grow. And, you know, and so I love broccoli rabe. I love rapini. I think it's important for me also and just for anyone who sort of like lives and works within food.
52:27broccoli rabe is of course quite popular to us right or we know it so well but i always think about like what would my what would my aunt think about this post does she eat broccoli rabe and ultimately the answer is like no like a lot of people don't know broccoli rabe it's too bitter or it's a little too sort of esoteric um and so i always try to bring like any anybody who's in the food business is like, oh, broccoli rabe pasta. Maybe. They'd be like, okay, whatever. I've had it before. I've seen it before. Great margin, too. Exactly. And so I'm trying, I'm always trying to like celebrate the things that are at a normal person's grocery store just to, you know, that because you can go shop at a grocery store in middle America and they're probably going to have broccoli rabe.
53:18And I'm always, you know, I try to avoid specialty ingredients or anything that's overly chefy or specialty. And that gets back to the name of the newsletter, A Small and Simple Thing. And I like that simplicity, that approachability. And I wanted to shine a light on Andy Boy because they must be the nation's largest producer of rapini. And I also thought it made a cute name. It was a great tribute to the farm. Is there like a twist in the dish at all? I mean, it was the first time I added anchovy. So I, you know, disintegrate anchovy with the garlic, a little chili flake, broccoli rabe, and then kind of steam it in the pan.
54:00Lots of olive oil and, of course, salt and then a nice squeeze of lemon at the end. And it's great. I'm always also thinking about I have a young child, six-year-old son, and I'm always thinking about ways to introduce him to more and more vegetables and expand his palate and teach him about, you know, eating a variety of ingredients because selfishly it means we get to eat more and we get to go out to the restaurants we like rather than having to like work around his, you know, inclinations. This episode is brought to you by Hungry Root. If you listen to the show, you may know that I am a major fan of Hungry Root.
54:38I've been a paid, yes, paid subscriber of Hungry Root since 2018 and have had the company's founder Ben McKean sit in the studio for a conversation. The reason I love Hungry Root is simple. When I'm in a pinch for time to make an interesting and delicious lunch or dinner, Hungry Root always has my back. Hungry Root basically works like a personal nutrition coach and shopper by planning, recommending, and shopping everything for you. You start by taking a survey about what you like and don't like simply using thumbs up and thumbs down icons, and they take care of the weekly grocery shopping, recommending healthy groceries tailored to your tastes, nutritional preferences, and health goals.
55:18When the box arrives, there are several simple recipes. I've really been enjoying the rigatoni alla vodka with sweet Italian sausage. Hungry Root makes all of the pasta sauces fresh, and I've long been a fan of their pestos, marinara, and this creamy vodka sauce. And I can have dinner on the table in under 10 minutes. Hungry Root also has a huge selection of healthy groceries, everything from smoothies and quick lunches to kids' snacks and supplements. And unlike what you'd find in the grocery store, there's no junk ingredients in any of Hungry Root's food. They only source high-quality meat and seafood with no hormones or antibiotics.
55:59I love Hungry Root and recommend it all the time for my busy friends, and I hope you take this recommendation as well. And This Is Taste listeners can take advantage of this exclusive offer. For a limited time, get 40 % off your first box, plus get a free item in your box for life. Go to HungryRoot.com slash thisistaste and use code thisistaste. That's HungryRoot.com slash thisistaste, code thisistaste, to get 40 % off your first box and a free item of your choice for life. Well, I wanted to ask you about your investing. you know you write that you invest in food art and culture entities and including Blackbird and Mubi I have to ask you about Blackbird I've had Ben Leventhal the founder on three times I'm still not quite sure what Blackbird is maybe that's going to change in 26 I see they're involved with the NOMA launch which is really cool to see them aligned with that great thing happening in LA but what is it What is Blackbird?
57:05I describe it, you know, you can really get into the weeds on Blackbird because there's a whole Web3 blockchain technology underpinning Blackbird that has a lot of implications. But at the end of the day, Blackbird is a customer loyalty and payments app. So, and it's really made massive inroads in New York City. It's everywhere. I just used it for lunch yesterday. to pay my bill. So as an operator, here's what I like about it. And I'll start by saying I'm a Delta guy, right? I'm a diamond medallion. I get the upgrades. Not that it means anything, but they always come over and they're like, Mr.
57:52Wright, thank you for your diamond medallion status, right? So they know me sort of, you know, effectively. And I earn points, miles, when I fly with Delta that I can then use on other flights or hotels or whatever. So it only stood to reason when I was talking to Ben, who I've known for many years since his days at Eater, that my customer and I would also like that sensibility around restaurant dining. Meaning that if I like a coffee shop that I go to every day anyway, if I check into that coffee shop and I earn a couple points that can be transferred to real dollars, why wouldn't I check in using that app?
58:39So from the customer standpoint, it's a points. You can accrue points. What I love about it that's different than a lot of things that were out there is those points can be used across the Blackbird network. So I might earn points by dining at restaurant A, but I can pay for my bill at restaurant B using those same points. So it's a bit of a kind of a digital punch card. You're getting value. Exactly. Repeatedly going back, but you're also getting some kind of currency. But the old school punch card, I had to get 10 coffees at this coffee shop and I got a free coffee at that coffee shop. Now you get your 10 coffees and I can go to, you know, California and get a free coffee shop at that coffee shop.
59:18Yeah, yeah, yeah. And I like that. And then from an operator's perspective, there's a whole Blackbird pay component where you can pay your bill using the app. And I like it because it's seamless and it's easy. And there's been a lot of conversation about, oh, but then you're missing that human element of closing out the bill. And I'm like, that's the worst fucking part about going out to eat. Nobody cares about the payment. And frankly, as a customer, when I'm ready to go, I want to leave. I don't want to sit around waiting for the bill. There's no good part of that experience. It's always such a drag playing that little dance.
59:53Well, if you have somewhere to be, you know, so on and so forth. But what, you know, to get back to that Blackbird pay as a restaurant from a restaurant perspective, since they are processing that payment on a network they've created, it's a less, the percentage is less than what I pay to Amex or MasterCard or Visa. So that's real savings. annually to a restaurant, if you're doing four, five, six, seven million dollars in revenue and you're saving a percentage point on your credit card processing, that adds up to real money. And so I think there's huge, and there's a lot more under that, but I don't want to get lost in the weeds.
1:00:36And there's also like the back end when it comes to the operator side, which is a whole industry business model. Consumer data, customers, You know, you get to learn about customer spend and customers get to decide on Blackbird what they want to share with the operator, which I like because if you share that you are, you know, if you share your lifetime potential spend with a customer, with a restaurant, and you walk in at the same time as someone who hasn't shared that data and you're, according to Blackbird, a good customer, you're going to get the table. You're a diamond and you're going to get that table over this guy.
1:01:12Yeah, yeah. And I like all that. But your restaurants are squarely on Resi, though, right now. They are. But Blackbird's not a booking platform. They're totally different ones. Yeah. But Resi's been your pony for a while. Since Ben launched it, we've been with Resi. I know Open Table's making a lot of inroads, recapturing a lot of restaurants. But I like Resi. We have, you know, it's had a large adoption across Charleston. We were the first restaurants to use Resi in Charleston. Absolutely. and currently that pony is still performing. Well, yeah, I'm linking to the Resi link to your restaurants in the show notes.
1:01:48Sweet. We love Resi here as well. And thank you for explaining. Yeah, of course. I hope that did it justice. Ben will have to, he'll text me to tell me how I did. I tease because I think Ben has done a great job, but I think he's been iterating and he's due back this year on the show and I'll have him in. Lastly, before we get to a taste check, I want to ask you about skincare and beauty. You write about it really well. And I think, again, back to that, like you're giving recommendations, but you're not doing with judgment and you're not trying to flex in virtue signal. But why is it important?
1:02:21Such an interesting question. For us to care about our... Probably the first time you've asked that on taste, I would imagine. Maybe not. We've talked about beauty and wellness, but not recently, I'll say. Well, I'm very into health. And this is not some late in life adoption because it happens to be trendy, right? Wellness. I've had a gym membership since I was 16. There's a whole I've written about it. But like basically my two brothers, I was the middle of three. They teased me for being the chubby kid. And I was like, screw these guys. I'm going to join a gym. So it's and so at 16, I started lifting weights and I got myself healthy and I learned about healthy eating and cooking for myself.
1:03:08And it what became sort of a discipline in the beginning turned into a way of life that that sort of defines a lot of the way that I like shop for food, the way I enjoy restaurants, all that stuff. And so, you know, you you can like extrapolate out from there. You get into as you get older, like the skin care, health and beauty. Right. And really, I I've written about this because I think I came up in the era of the metrosexual. Right. Where it became OK now for men to make be into clothes or skin care. What a tricky and troubling time. Totally. But I remember vividly. But that paved the way for what we, well, some of the bad stuff now with like looks maxing and all this crazy stuff that's living on the internet.
1:04:00And that's way wacky. But my point is when I, I'll kind of give you my quick journey and then wrap it up because it has to do with food and restaurants. When I was working at Fig in Charleston under Mike Lotta, James Beard award winner, he's been on the show. He's been on the show. Dear friend of mine, he got pedicures. And I remember him saying to me or a couple of the guys who worked there, he's like, you know, I'm sure some guys were like pedicures, razzing him. And he's like, listen, you got to take care of yourself in this business. We're on our feet 12 to 14 hours a day. Yeah, I'm going to go take care of my feet on a day off and have them rubbed and have them like tended to.
1:04:40and it sort of like was like it was the first time I'd ever heard a guy like unabashedly lean into that and I was like yeah why should someone be ashamed or embarrassed about that so I started doing that and I was like man this feels good to be like tended to in this way and same with massage then I got you know I've been married with my wife for 13 years married for nine and she's actually quite a we're like right we meet in the middle uh of the Venn diagram because She's like she's a tomboy, like no makeup wearing woman with a very like lean skin care regimen. And I'm a guy who has a tendency to be a little bit more into all that.
1:05:20Exfoliating is part of your routine. For sure. So we overlap perfectly. And we so basically I use all of her stuff, all of the, you know, the lotions and moisturizer and all this. And I just feel like it's it's like Deion Sanders said. It's like, what, if you look good, you play good. If you play good, they pay good. Something like that. So it's all about like feeling good, feeling confident, you know, feeling comfortable and good in your own skin. It's not about anti-aging or trying to reverse or reverse engineer. But I just like to feel good. And I like for my sons to see a dad who is happy and energized about his day.
1:06:06and it all gets back to all that kind of philosophy about living. I love that. Well said. And just a reminder that you should be putting on an SPF moisturizer. SPF, baby. Just guys, like, you know, everyone out there, just put on that SPF moisturizer. Totally. We need to loop a skincare brand in to advertise on this episode. Yeah, I mean, it goes with, you talk about gut health, you talk about all sorts of diets and routines at restaurants. So why can't it, you know, kind of transfer to the skincare? Uh, Brooks on this is taste. We asked guests about the discerning taste. So to close this interview, here's a little rapid fire, fast and furious taste check.
1:06:43Are you ready? I am the best fruit. The one I eat the most is the banana, the cabin dish, but the best fruit, it is polarizing. Uh, that's my, my, my go-to, but I would say like my favorite fruit is like a California melon from like the wiser family farms in season. blow your mind. But I can't get those where I live. But you have some pretty nice melons down in... We got some good melons. Yeah. We get some good melons in the summertime. Yeah. But I'm going to say, I eat a lot of bananas. I love bananas. I use them in smoothies. I eat them with peanut butter. I eat them on sandwiches. I'm a banana guy.
1:07:22Yeah. I hate to say it. The worst vegetable. Rutabaga. Woo. Tell me, why is it so bad? I love vegetables. Yeah. Um, I have yet to crack the code on rutabaga. I've yet to have a rutabaga preparation that was tasty to me. Did you grow up with them in Kentucky? No, no, I didn't. Yeah. Um, I, you know, I did grow up with like mostly like a lot of vegetables out of a, of a can. Like I didn't have a fresh beet until I was probably like 19 in college working at a restaurant. And I love beets now. I mean, I love, I would say rutabaga is the only vegetable that I'm tepid on in my admiration. What is your typical breakfast?
1:08:05Oatmeal with peanut butter, pecans, walnuts, pumpkin seeds, and a drizzle of honey every single day. Breakfast routine is everything. We didn't talk about nut butters, by the way. You wrote very vividly about nut butters. Major nut butterhead. Specifically, I use cream nut, which is out of Michigan. They use Virginia peanuts. Hell yeah. It's the best peanut butter in the world. And I will just say as a quick thing, across from my hotel, this new nut butter coffee bar opened up from Paris called Buddy Buddy. So yesterday I went to check it out and I had a peanut butter latte. Not a thing I'm going to get again because it's not my style, but it was very good, just super rich.
1:08:45But yeah, I'm a major – nut butters make up a big part of my diet. Buddy Buddy, great rec. I got to check it out. I've heard of it. They had a cool write-up in the FT last year. That's how I first started clocking it. The best dessert? Oh, great question. I'm an ice cream guy. So I would say in America, mint chocolate chip ice cream. And in Italy, pistachio. Yeah. Gelato. Those are, that's, I'm a, it's funny you say the best because so much is tied up in the best. And I'm always, I'm like, favorite is my preferred word. So my favorite dessert is ice cream. Yeah, I love it. That's actually a better phrasing.
1:09:34Maybe 26 will bring a recasting of that question. All right, I love this question for you. A restaurant you wish you could bring back from the dead. Oh, wow, such a great question. I, well, so, you know, I travel a lot to New York. and I would be, I want to say something from New York, but what I'm going to go with here, which is not going to speak to many viewers, is a pizza place I grew up with in the tri-state area. I grew up in Kentucky, right on the border of Evansville, Indiana. And there is a pizzeria that's still around, but they moved locations and I think lost the special sauce called Rock-A-Bar.
1:10:18It's a thin crust pizza that you would be familiar with as like tavern pizza. But in my region, they call it Una Pizza, U-N-A. And I would bring back the original Rockabar, which was the background to a lot of childhood memories. That's good. When you're craving fast food, where are you going? I don't crave fast food. Really? Just not? I don't eat fast food. I haven't had, I tried In-N-Out last year. Yeah. Because I just, of course, people are like rave about In-N-Out. and I was like, it's fine. I was more interested and impressed with the operation than the food itself. I love it. It wasn't bad, but I was like - I was more impressed with the way that they took my order.
1:11:02For sure, I was. I was observing the whole system and it was very impressive. And the burger was tasty, but not at all something I need to have again. Your favorite city outside America to visit for food? London. Obvious. I feel if you read it. They just, they have, they have, and so many people like British food. But, you know, first of all, British food, the British food I'm eating is phenomenal. They have River Cafe is there. Some of my favorite Italian food in the world outside of Italy. And then there's just the broad spectrum of international cuisines that you can have in London at a very high level.
1:11:43Yeah, and if you dip into reading Vittles, you can get a taste of that. For sure. They just posted their top 100 restaurant. Oh. Such a great read. Cool. Worth subscribing to for that. Last one, your favorite sandwich.
1:12:00Great question. This is, I'm so curious as to what the comments will say. Tuna salad sandwich. Okay, okay, okay. Follow up. a lot of mayonnaise, no mayonnaise, middle mayonnaise. What are we doing? Middle mayonnaise. Okay. Yeah. I'm a very, as you've read some of my writing, I'm super nostalgic for a lot of the way that I grew up informs the way that I live now. I'm big on like traditions. And I grew up with a container of tuna salad in the refrigerator at all times. I love tuna salad. I love a great tuna salad sandwich. My wife teases me because, you know, these days I don't have to deal with this that much.
1:12:48But in our earlier years, if I was hungover, I would crave a tuna salad sandwich, which is the weirdest thing to crave. But at the end of the day, I'm a simple man. I fully endorse that. In my drinking days when I lived in the East Village, there was a little deli called Gracefully on Avenue A. And every time I was hungover, I would get tuna. You get the appeal. I don't know what it is. It was heavy on the dill, too. I think that kind of refreshed that cotton mouth at the end. But I love the choice. I love that. Cool. Thank you. What's the bread choice on tuna for you? Like a multi-grain situation.
1:13:24I'm not really a white bread. We didn't grow up with that kind of thing. But like a wheat berry studded type of situation. Love that. Brooks writes, thank you so much for joining This The Taste. This has been so much fun. Thank you for having me.
1:13:40This is Taste is hosted and produced by Eliza Abarbanal and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is edited by lead producer Clayton Gumbert and supervised by Pat Stango, director of media production and development at Penguin Random House. Thanks to Shalia Harris and the production team at Penguin Random House. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Episode portraits by Louise Zergon Pomeroy. Logo design by Ellie Skirzat and Ian Dingham. Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter to keep updated on all cool things in the world of taste.
From the publisher
Brooks Reitz writes the wonderful newsletter A Small & Simple Thing, which has become one of our favorite reads. He also runs restaurants in Charleston and New Orleans, including Leon’s Oyster Shop, Little Jack’s Tavern, Melfi’s, and the Bell. In this conversation we talk about Brook’s unique worldview, built around restaurant hospitality, tastemaking (the not annoying kind), and design. We talk about the recent British Invasion for restaurants in America, and his acquisition of the Houston’s / Hillstone training manual.
And before that we have a great conversation with Johno Morisano and chef Mashama Bailey, partners at The Grey, an acclaimed and progressive restaurant located in historic downtown Savannah, Georgia. In this interview we chat with the pair about how they think about the big picture (together) and bounce around menu ideas (sometimes, not together). It’s an enlightening and entertaining conversation about collaborating in a modern dining setting.
The views expressed in this podcast are those of the speakers – not of Resy—and do not constitute professional advice.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices




