728: A Delicious Deep Dive Into Somali Food with Ifrah F. Ahmed

9 Feb 2026 · 56 min · 26 chapters

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In short

Podcast Summary: This Is TASTE - Episode 728

Episode Overview In this episode of *This Is TASTE*, hosts Aliza Abarbanel and Matt Rodbard interview Ifrah F. Ahmed, a Somali-born chef, writer, and artist based in Brooklyn, about her experiences in Somali food and her debut cookbook, *Soomaaliya*. The episode also features a segment where Aliza shares highlights from her recent trip to Tokyo.

Guest

Ifrah F. Ahmed

  • Background: Ifrah is a Somali-born writer and chef who has been exploring Somali cuisine through her pop-up, Milk and Myrrh, and has contributed to *New York Times Cooking*.
  • Cookbook: Launching her debut cookbook *Soomaaliya*, she discusses the challenges of translating an oral food culture into a written format.
  • Topics Covered:
  • The legacy and influences of Somali cuisine
  • The intersection of food, culture, history, and migration

Key Topics Discussed

  1. Aliza's Trip to Tokyo
  2. Experience: Aliza recounts her week-long trip in January, emphasizing her desire to explore local neighborhoods instead of popular tourist spots.
  3. Restaurants Visited:
  4. Ramen Jazzy Beets: A highlight known for its unique Tori Nibo-style ramen.
  5. Nasu Oyaji: Renowned for its dynamic and layered curry dishes, particularly featuring fried eggplant.
  6. Lecker: A bakery famous for its Danish-style pastries, including a standout kumquat Danish.
  7. Convenience Store Finds: Aliza highlights the unique features of Japanese convenience stores, including a smoothie machine and refreshing drinks.
  1. Somali Cuisine and Cultural Significance
  2. Ifrah's Early Food Memories: She shares nostalgic memories from her childhood, including first encounters with sweets and fast food upon arriving in America.
  3. Culinary Transition: Ifrah's transition from a legal career to food came after a life-changing trip to Somalia, which reignited her passion for her cultural heritage.
  4. Cultural Context: Discussed how Somali cuisine incorporates influences from trade routes, highlighting the use of spices and a blend of traditional and Italian flavors due to historical colonization.
  1. Cookbook Development
  2. Process: Ifrah reflects on the challenges of documenting an oral tradition and emphasizes the importance of cultural preservation through writing.
  3. Historical Context: The cookbook includes historical sections that delve into Somalia's past, emphasizing the connection between culture and cuisine.
  4. Recipe Development: Ifrah aims to preserve traditional recipes while also catering to contemporary audiences, ensuring a balance between authenticity and accessibility.
  1. Key Takeaways on Somali Food
  2. Core Flavors: Essential spices include cumin, coriander, cinnamon, and cardamom, which form the backbone of Somali dishes.
  3. Cuisine Diversity: Somali food features a variety of dishes, such as:
  4. Angero: A sourdough pancake often enjoyed for breakfast.
  5. Baris: Spiced rice dishes commonly served with meat.
  6. Otka: A traditional beef jerky dish cooked with ghee and spices.
  7. Desserts: Ifrah describes popular sweets like *halwo* and *dolcio* (a light cardamom cake), reflecting Somali culinary traditions.

Conclusion The episode concludes with Ifrah emphasizing the importance of celebrating and preserving Somali cultural heritage through cuisine. She expresses hope that her work will inspire others, particularly those in the diaspora, to reconnect with their culinary roots.

Additional Notes

  • Host Reflections: Aliza and Matt express admiration for Ifrah's work and the beauty of Somali cuisine.
  • Cultural Importance: The conversation highlights how food serves as a vessel for memory and culture, especially in communities with rich oral traditions.

Subscribe and Learn More

  • For more episodes and insights on food culture and cooking, subscribe to *This Is TASTE* on [Apple Podcasts](https://apple.com), [Spotify](https://spotify.com), and [YouTube](https://youtube.com).
  • Visit [TASTE](https://tastecooking.com) for more content related to food and cooking culture.

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

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Introducing Ifra Ahmed

1:16 to 1:59

Eliza introduces guest Ifra Ahmed and her work with Somali food.

“Ifra Ahmed is a Somali-born, Brooklyn-based writer, chef, and artist whose work centers around food, history, culture, memory, and migration.”

Eliza's Trip to Tokyo

1:59 to 2:28

Eliza shares highlights from her recent trip to Tokyo, including dining experiences.

“And at the top of the show, I talk about my recent trip to Tokyo, sharing some dining highlights.”

Exploring Tokyo's Neighborhoods

2:28 to 4:35

Discussion about exploring Tokyo's neighborhoods and dining options.

“It was finally my turn to be the annoying New Yorker who goes to Japan and posts all about it.”

Memorable Meals in Tokyo

4:35 to 6:40

Eliza details several memorable meals, including ramen and curry.

“I think it was a little bit, you know, relaxing at the end of the day to not be in such a overwhelming touristy neighborhood.”

Unique Dining Experiences

6:40 to 8:13

Eliza describes unique dining experiences and local dining culture in Tokyo.

“Yeah, I think it was a really nice kind of balance of the two.”

Japanese Pastries and Convenience Stores

8:13 to 11:15

Eliza shares experiences with pastries and convenience stores in Japan.

“And so they have a record player in the window and hundreds of different vinyl behind the bar in the little kitchen.”

Art and Views in Tokyo

11:15 to 12:40

Eliza talks about visiting the Mori Art Museum and enjoying city views.

“And it's like a dollar smoothie basically.”

Reflections on Japan

12:40 to 13:35

Discussion on the care and craft in Japanese cuisine and dining culture.

“And I think if you are looking to kind of get that panoramic view and also see some art, you could do kind of two birds, one stone and go to the Mori Art Museum.”

Early Food Memories

15:22 to 17:25

Ifrah shares her early food memories from childhood and immigration.

“I'm really excited to get to chat with you today.”

Transitioning to Food Writing

17:26 to 18:44

Ifrah discusses her career shift from law to food and writing.

“I imagine there are probably a lot of things that you would smell maybe even when you're cooking today that kind of bring you back to being in a different kitchen.”
Show all 26 chapters

Impact of a Life-Changing Trip to Somalia

18:45 to 20:30

Ifrah reflects on her transformative trip to Somalia and its influence on her work.

“So I was doing I was studying to do international human rights law.”

The Evolving Nature of Somali Cuisine

20:31 to 22:44

Discussing how Somali food evolves and adapts across cultures.

“You write about that trip in the book about how it was your first time going back to Somalia since you left as a child and you were kind of immersed back in this culture and this cuisine in a different kind of way.”

Challenges in Documenting Somali Cuisine

22:45 to 24:58

Ifrah talks about the challenges faced in documenting the Somali culinary tradition.

“I have been thinking about this book as far back as like 2017, 2018, which was around the time that I really was heavily thinking about switching careers.”

Researching Somali History for Culinary Insight

24:59 to 28:08

Exploring the difficulties and methodologies of researching Somali food history.

“You know, like I think I once tweeted about how like for me and for I'm sure a lot of other people that come from oral sort of like culinary traditions, we're not just doing like recipe development work.”

Researching Somali Cuisine: A Collaborative Effort

28:08 to 29:23

Learn about the research process behind the cookbook, including community collaboration and academic resources.

“And so he would send me like like oral recordings of like Somali women from like a certain era talking about how to make a specific, you know, dish, for example.”

The Importance of Documenting Somali Culinary Traditions

29:23 to 31:03

Explore the necessity of documenting Somali recipes and the cultural significance of this work.

“And that's why pasta is a big factor in the cuisine.”

Essentials of Somali Cuisine: Flavors and Techniques

31:03 to 33:19

Discover the core flavors and cooking techniques that define Somali cuisine.

“and had like a base to work off of to like sort of understand Somali like culinary traditions.”

Exploring Somali Breakfast: A Culinary Delight

33:19 to 35:18

Delve into the traditional Somali breakfast and its unique preparations.

“And so you'll find the pasta, you'll find these sort of aromatic rice dishes and these really like savory sort of like slow cooked like meats.”

A Sweet Journey Through Somali Desserts

35:18 to 37:25

Learn about popular Somali desserts and the cultural stories behind them.

“Like I feel like Somali breakfast goes really hard.”

Capturing Somali Food: The Cookbook Photo Journey

37:25 to 40:04

Uncover the photographic journey of capturing Somali cuisine on location for the cookbook.

“And I think the dessert chapter also is such a standout to me.”

The Intent Behind Documenting Somali Culture

40:04 to 42:00

Understand the purpose and significance of showcasing Somali culture in the cookbook.

“Did you always know that you wanted to go and shoot in Somalia?”

The Process of Creating a Somali Cookbook

42:00 to 45:08

Learn how Ifrah Ahmed meticulously crafted her Somali cookbook, emphasizing cultural authenticity and personal involvement.

“And then the recipe photos, did you shoot those back here in the U.S.?”

The Significance of Visual Elements in the Cookbook

45:08 to 47:56

Discover the importance of visual storytelling in Ifrah's cookbook, including the use of personal artifacts and traditional fabrics.

“And they're used, some of those are used in the in-studio photo shoot, the recipe shots that we did.”

Balancing Tradition and Innovation in Recipes

47:56 to 49:55

Understand how Ifrah balances traditional Somali recipes with modern interpretations in her cooking.

“Yeah, I think that really resonates and makes sense.”

The Somali Breakfast Burrito Concept

49:55 to 51:08

Learn about the innovative Angero burrito that merges Somali flavors with a popular breakfast format.

“Maybe to tease it for someone who's listening, what's the Somali breakfast burrito?”

Rapid Fire Favorites with Ifrah Ahmed

52:46 to 55:14

Engage in a rapid-fire segment where Ifrah shares her favorite foods and culinary experiences.

“Ooh, I'm a reformed, um, sweet late night, sweet eater.”
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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00Ifrah F. Ahmed:This episode is brought to you by Rezzy and American Express. Rezzy is a digital platform that connects restaurants to restaurant lovers by elevating dining experiences, providing original industry content, and helping to fill some of the country's most exciting dining rooms. Because restaurants have always been more than just places to eat. The amazing world of restaurants is just a few taps away in the Rezzy app and at Rezzy.com. Kayak gets my flight, hotel, and rental car right. so I can tune out travel advice that's just plain wrong. Bro, Skycoin. Way better than points. Never fly during a Scorpio full moon.

0:38Ifrah F. Ahmed:Just tell the manager you'll sue. Instant room upgrade. Stop taking bad travel advice. Start comparing hundreds of sites with Kayak and get your trip right. Kayak. Got that right.

0:59Aliza A. Williams:There needs to be an understanding of how this cuisine came to exist, how the country developed, how the culture developed, how Somali people developed. Because all of that really shows through our food, but neither exists in a vacuum.

1:15Ifrah F. Ahmed:This is Taste. I'm your host, Eliza Barbinell.

1:26Ifrah F. Ahmed:Ifra Ahmed is a Somali-born, Brooklyn-based writer, chef, and artist whose work centers around food, history, culture, memory, and migration. For years, she's been sharing Somali food through her pop-up Milk and Myrrh and as a contributor to New York Times Cooking. And now she's releasing a gorgeous debut cookbook, Somalia. It's a pleasure to have Ifra on the show to talk about the joys and challenges of translating an oral tradition into a cookbook, the rich legacy and influences of Somali cuisine, and much more. And at the top of the show, I talk about my recent trip to Tokyo, sharing some dining highlights.

2:07Ifrah F. Ahmed:Eliza, we are back with not three things. Where have you been? We're back with things. We're back with things. I'm back in the studio. It's the coldest, rudest return to New York. But I'm happy to be back and I'm happy to be talking with you. I was lucky to be in Asia for most of January. I started off my trip in Tokyo. It was finally my turn to be the annoying New Yorker who goes to Japan and posts all about it. We spent a week just in Tokyo. I think there are a lot of parts of Japan that people love going to. But just because we only had so much time, I really wanted to get to dig into Tokyo and spend as much time as we could exploring all the different neighborhoods.

2:48Ifrah F. Ahmed:Well, we're going to talk about the trip broadly and then you're going to give some some favorite food and other experiences. But like, yeah, did you feel that that over tourist element that we kind of read about for the past couple of years in Japan? You know, I didn't. I think mostly because of the timing of the trip. I was there in January. So after Christmas, New Year's, when I think a lot of people travel. Also, I was there around a time where the Chinese government was telling their citizens not to travel to Japan. So there were no Chinese tourists when I was there, which is, I think, one of the biggest demographics of people that are visiting Japan.

3:22Ifrah F. Ahmed:So I think for those reasons, it didn't feel over-touristed. I think, like, when I would go to a restaurant and wait in a line, there would mostly be Japanese people in that line. And I wasn't really, you know, going to the Studio Ghibli Museum or maybe some of those big highlights. I kind of was just walking around. I made maybe two reservations, but most of the time my girlfriend Shirley and I were just walking into places, which I think is very manageable to do with just two people in Tokyo. Obviously, a lot of these restaurants are very small. So I think if I had a bigger group, maybe that would have been more stressful.

3:56Ifrah F. Ahmed:But I think going in a less touristy time, not the cherry blossoms, not a big kind of federal holiday here in the U.S. And going in January, I think, made it a little bit easier. I was in Hokkaido once in January and February. I love visiting Japan that time of year. It's it's I agree. It's not as not as crazy. What neighborhood did you stay in? I stayed in Akasaka, which was recommended to me by a couple of friends who go to Tokyo often. not because there's anything especially of note in Akasaka, but just that it's very convenient. It has a couple of train lines. It's about 20 minutes to get to a bunch of neighborhoods that I wanted to go to.

4:33Ifrah F. Ahmed:And I really liked that. I think it was a little bit, you know, relaxing at the end of the day to not be in such a overwhelming touristy neighborhood. It's kind of like a business district. So a lot of people maybe are going there for work, but, and, you know, we had nice meals in that neighborhood, but it was more of like the respite at the end of the day. Yeah, I stayed in Akasaka once too, and I felt I got a really cheap business hotel. It was great. Yeah, yeah, I was on that vibe too. I think like we got a pretty spacious room, but there was no closet, which I wasn't expecting. There was like a little, you know, hook for like two winter jackets.

5:07Ifrah F. Ahmed:But certainly by the end of our shopping, it was a little bit of a jigsaw puzzle to get everything to fit. Well, let's talk about some of the highlights. I mean, we could talk, do a full hour, I'm sure, on Japan. But just give us a few memorable meals or however you want to structure this. Yeah, I guess I'll say that going into the trip, I started making a list of foods that I really wanted to eat. Oh, fun. And the list became untenable very quickly because there were so many things that I wanted to eat. But I think one thing that I really wanted to have was good ramen. And I got a lot of recommendations from people who'd been before.

5:39Ifrah F. Ahmed:I think the benefit of going to Tokyo in 2026 is that so many people do like to go there. So there is a lot. And the place that I went to that I really loved is a ramen place that's called Ramen Jazzy Beets that's in the Nakamaguro neighborhood. And this is a recommendation from my friend Kevin, who's one of the chefs of the pop-up See You Soon. I love their food. And Kevin goes to Tokyo pretty often. They've cooked there before. So that was a wreck that I just knew to trust. And it was the best chicken ramen I've ever had. It's a Tori Nibo-style ramen, which is a kind of creamy chicken anchovy broth topped with chasu pork.

6:14Ifrah F. Ahmed:So I marinated egg noodles, obviously. And this is a little shop. So we waited in line outside, maybe for 15 minutes with maybe five people ahead of us. But I think a lot of these kind of like ramen places, it's very quick turnover, right? You go in, you eat, and you're out in 20 minutes. So we didn't have to wait that long. And this ramen was just so like, I'm thinking about it. I'm sad that I can't have it right now. Was the stock, like that deep chicken stock, like double stock, was it just very, did it give chicken or was it just like rich or numami? Like what's the beautiful felt? Yeah, I think it was a really nice kind of balance of the two.

6:50Ifrah F. Ahmed:It definitely had like the chicken, creamy chicken kind of flavor. But then that anchovy is just giving it kind of like that umami base note to it. And it was, you know, a relatively light bowl of ramen as opposed to a tonkatsu style that's more heavy. We were able to, you know, kind of get out the door and keep walking around that neighborhood afterwards, which was really great. Another standout meal that I had was I really wanted to have good curry. And I went to a place called Nasuayaji that is a curry restaurant in Shimokitazawa, which is a neighborhood that some people might know for having a lot of vintage shops.

7:20Ifrah F. Ahmed:They also have a lot of curry shops. And this is one of the oldest curry shops in that neighborhood, I believe. It's been open since the 90s, and they've had a new owner since 2017. And Nasuayaji translates to uncle eggplant. And they do fried eggplant in all of the curries that they have. They basically have four different kinds of curry that all has the same base. and it's just if you want it with veggie or meat or something. And the curry is so dynamic and layered. It's almost like a cross between a Japanese curry and an Indian-style curry, and they serve it over this kind of fluffy mound of white rice and a bunch of vegetables.

7:55Ifrah F. Ahmed:I got the veggie curry. So I had a fried eggplant and broccoli and little cherry tomatoes garnished with fried onions. Again, it was a little cold when we were there. This was a really, like, warming, satisfying dish to have. And another thing I really liked about this restaurant, which I've seen at a couple restaurants in Tokyo, is this interest in playing vinyl in the shop. And so they have a record player in the window and hundreds of different vinyl behind the bar in the little kitchen. And, you know, they would even like pause cooking something or pause taking an order to go and flip the record.

8:25Ifrah F. Ahmed:And they had great taste in music. So I think that was something I really liked. I love walking into a jazz bar and having like those great acoustics, right? Yeah. And I think like the love for jazz in Tokyo is so cool. just as like a side note I went to a really great like live jazz place I had like a grandpa night out accidentally where I went to this place called Jazz Spot Intro that's run by this you know very kindly older man who is awesome he like turned off all the lights in the bar and started like using a flashlight to strobe on the drummer at one point funny I want to be like him when I'm older he really has it in and then afterwards I went to a vinyl bar called Grandfather's that also is run by this older man who's like has this great collection of like old american music mostly that he was playing on vinyl which was awesome but um it is one of the bars where you're allowed to smoke cigarettes inside so yeah that was like i could only stay for so long yeah it's a little bit of uh you know retro feel to it in japan smoking inside were you were you drinking highballs at all i was absolutely drinking highballs um which was like really fun to get to do and also you know great Japanese beer.

9:35Ifrah F. Ahmed:I would say another item on my list of something I really wanted to try when I went to Japan was I wanted to have good pastries. Like a lot of people talk about laminated pastries, croissants, things like that in Japan. And my favorite place that I went to is a bakery called Lecker in the Daikanyama neighborhood. That was a Chris Crowley recommendation. Our friend Chris, formerly of Grub Street, now at the new to be launched Caper. Yeah. Can't wait to see Chris's work there. I know. Very intriguing. I'm excited. I'm excited. And he was in Tokyo a couple months ago and told me that he went back to this place multiple times.

10:09Ifrah F. Ahmed:So I knew that it had to be worth going to. And I really enjoyed it. You know, the name Lecker is, I think, Danish for delicious. And that's kind of a nod to the fact that they're doing more of a European Danish style laminated pastry. I think my favorite was a kumquat Danish that had this kind of thick vanilla custard and candied kumquat on top. They also did a really good mushroom Danish. And these have really flaky crust, super high-quality butter. Immediately as I stepped outside, I ate one and went back in and got another. Oh, amazing move. Amazing power move. Convenience stores, were you dipping in?

10:45Ifrah F. Ahmed:I mean, of course. I feel like the convenience store hype is super big when you hear about going to convenience stores in Japan. And I've been lucky to spend time in Taiwan, which also has Lawson and Family Mart and 7-Eleven, which are the big convenience stores in Japan. But something I think the Japanese convenience stores specifically do well is they have this like smoothie machine at 7-Eleven. Have you seen videos of this? No, I haven't. You buy like a cup of frozen fruit or veggies in the case and then you bring it over to the machine and then it blends it into a smoothie for you in real time.

11:18Ifrah F. Ahmed:And it's like a dollar smoothie basically. And the machine self-cleans afterwards when you're done. Why can't we have those in New York? I mean, obviously not for a dollar, but for like eight bucks, I would do it. I mean, I'd do it for less than eight bucks, but it's crazy that we don't have that. And I haven't seen that in other 7-Elevens and other places in Asia. Another thing I really liked at the 7-Eleven in Japan is they have this lemon drink. I don't know the name of it, but it has – okay, and I'm not talking about negative 196C, which is like the very alcoholic lemon drink. This is like a functional beverage, like a vitamin C drink, which was so good.

11:55Ifrah F. Ahmed:And I would like make a little drink where I would get that really tart vitamin C drink and then get one of like the konjac jellies or like the fiber jellies that they sell and then mix that together in a cup and just kind of like walk around drinking that. Oh, my God. Like a C hit, a fiber hit, all from a 7-Eleven. Yeah, I think the fiber jellies are important also when you go to Japan because I think if you're eating a lot of, you know, ramen and maybe getting a good pizza, like you're not getting quite as many veggies as you normally would. You got to, you know, keep everything balanced. A non-food thing that I would mention is I went to this great museum called the Mori Art Museum, which had a really beautiful, almost like biannual type exhibition of work of artists in Japan and beyond.

12:39Ifrah F. Ahmed:But also they have the most incredible view of the city. It's way up on maybe the 70th floor. And I think if you are looking to kind of get that panoramic view and also see some art, you could do kind of two birds, one stone and go to the Mori Art Museum. Any last thoughts about Japan? I mean, you've done such a great job of recapping these amazing spots, and we'll link to all the links in the show notes for your own trips and your own planning. I mean, I just feel really lucky to have gotten to go there. And I think something that's really striking about Japan is just like the level of care and craft that people have.

13:11Ifrah F. Ahmed:And these places that I've talked about, they're doing basically one thing on the menu, right? This is a ramen place that does variations on the same kind of ramen, a curry place that does variations on the same kind of curry. And I think that that's just so special to be able to see people that are perfecting their craft in that kind of way and kind of going there and like finding that one specific craving. Because, you know, there's so much in Tokyo. If there's something else you want, you can always go to another place. Yeah. Well, I love that you got to experience Japan for the first time and eat so well.

13:40Ifrah F. Ahmed:Yeah, I feel very lucky. Thank you for letting me tell you all about it. This episode is brought to you by Masterclass. You know how on the show, we're always talking to people who've spent decades obsessing over one thing, whether it's modern Korean food, new expressions of the Jewish deli, or the perfect Vampiro taco in South LA. That depth of knowledge is the thing I find endlessly fascinating. And honestly, it's a big part of why I'm into Masterclass. There are classes taught by some of the best chefs, writers, and thinkers in the world. People who've put in the work. And the lessons are short enough that I can actually fit them in.

14:18Ifrah F. Ahmed:Thought leaders like Michael Lewis, Amy Poehler, and chefs Gordon Ramsay and Roy Choi all teach their own masterclasses. I've been using audio mode on my commute, and it genuinely feels like time well spent. With plans starting at$10 a month, billed annually, you get unlimited access to over 200 classes. And every new membership comes with a 30-day money-back guarantee, so there's really no reason not to try it. Right now, our listeners get an additional 15 % off any annual membership. Go to masterclass.com slash tastecooking. That's masterclass.com slash tastecooking.

15:16Ifrah F. Ahmed:RedPlus at OnePeloton.com. Ifrah Ahmed, this is Tais. Thank you for coming on the podcast. Thank you for having me. I'm really excited to get to chat with you today. I think your new book is so beautiful. I have a lot of questions about how it came together. But to start, I want to get a little bit of insight into who you are. And I'm wondering if you would tell me an early food memory you have from growing up.

15:37Aliza A. Williams:One of my earliest food memories was on the flight over to America when my family was coming to the country and being presented with cake. But I didn't recognize it as cake, so I tasted it and it was incredibly sweet. I spit it out. and I remember I think I was like six or something like five or six asking my mom what it was and her kind of being like oh it's dolso which is cake in Somali and telling me that I could eat it that it would be fine to eat but it just tasting like so foreign and like looking very strange to me so that's kind of an early food memory and then I think another one would be a little later on once we came to the United States.

16:30Aliza A. Williams:And I remember like the very first like home that we lived in was this apartment complex in Seattle, a little bit south of Seattle, a city called Tukwila, where a lot of Somali immigrants and refugees first settled. And I remember like every morning my mom would open up the windows and I would get the smell of McDonald's french fries.

16:51Ifrah F. Ahmed:Such an iconic smell.

16:53Aliza A. Williams:Yeah, very American. And that's like a really core childhood memory of mine. because there was a McDonald's like just like around the corner from that apartment complex. And to me, that was like the sort of the American chapter of our lives.

17:08Ifrah F. Ahmed:What happens when you smell McDonald's french fries now?

17:11Aliza A. Williams:I still love it. I don't really eat McDonald's and I haven't had McDonald's french fries in a long time, but the smell is so nostalgic to me. It reminds me of my childhood and it smells incredible.

17:24Ifrah F. Ahmed:Yeah, I think that's so interesting, the way that smells can be so transportive. I imagine there are probably a lot of things that you would smell maybe even when you're cooking today that kind of bring you back to being in a different kitchen. Totally. So I'm really interested in talking about your work as a writer, as a recipe developer, as a chronicler of Somali cuisine. And I'm wondering if you could tell me about how you kind of found your voice as a recipe developer, deciding what kinds of food you wanted to be cooking and how you would be sharing those recipes.

17:50Aliza A. Williams:Well, I think, you know, initially I wasn't doing recipe development. So I previously transitioned from like the legal field, you know, like I went to law school and and then, you know, I decided that I wanted to switch careers. and I started really more from like the chefing side and doing pop-ups through my pop-up, my Somali culinary pop-up, Milk and Myrrh. And that was sort of like the beginning and, you know, doing sort of like recipe development really in the lens of like what would be good on these menus, these like pop-up menus. And then from there I started doing food writing. And then the recipe development was really sort of like the third thing in terms of like being a professional recipe developer.

18:40Aliza A. Williams:Yeah. Did that answer your question? I feel like I left something.

18:43Ifrah F. Ahmed:No, totally. I feel like the transition from you wanted to be a human rights lawyer, right? Yeah.

18:47Aliza A. Williams:Yeah. So I was doing I was studying to do international human rights law. Yeah.

18:52Ifrah F. Ahmed:So what made you decide that you wanted to do kind of a career pivot?

18:57Aliza A. Williams:It just was like the basically like the work that I was like involved in was really emotionally taxing. It was like very intense. You know, I was working with a lot of people that were kind of like from my community as well. You know, like while I was in law school, I was doing a lot of like freelance work with like legal organizations. And a lot of the time, you know, like the people that we were working with, I was maybe the only person who understood them or could speak their language. And so there was like a real intensity to the work. And I'm, you know, I'm a very sensitive person. And so I found that I couldn't really leave, you know, the work like at work or at school.

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19:40Aliza A. Williams:It always kind of followed me home. And that was a lot to sort of like deal with on an emotional level. And food had always been sort of like my lifelong love. You know, even before I knew that I wanted to go to law school or, you know, that I was interested in human rights or anything like that, food was sort of like my original love. And I think, yeah, it just felt like a natural transition. It was something I had been thinking about for a long time. And it's not a super easy transition to make as like the eldest, you know, daughter of like an immigrant refugee family to go into like a creative field or creative pursuit.

20:17Aliza A. Williams:But I had a trip to Somalia with my mom in 2018. That was just like totally life changing and, you know, made me really want to just switch gears in my life once I came back to New York.

20:31Ifrah F. Ahmed:Yeah, I'm curious. You write about that trip in the book about how it was your first time going back to Somalia since you left as a child and you were kind of immersed back in this culture and this cuisine in a different kind of way. Were there any kind of meals or moments there that solidified your desire to be doing food in more of a full time way?

20:49Aliza A. Williams:Yeah, I mean, I think just sort of seeing like the vibrancy of the country and Mokdisho in particular where I was born and seeing just sort of like what was being done around like street food, for example, was super interesting. But I think for me, it was really about like the simplicity of kind of like everyday meals. And I don't like one thing that I wrote about that going home trip, you know, was just having a really simple bowl of like goat soup and like, you know, bread and just how that really tasted like sort of a revelation. Right. And so for me, it was both about like the energy of like the city and like the people and then also about just like the simplicity and like the quality of the food and the care put into the food.

21:41Aliza A. Williams:And yeah, just like more so that than like really specific, like standalone moments. And then also obviously like the incredible seafood, like, you know, in Somalia because it has the longest coastline in mainland Africa. So I spent my time eating a lot of seafood while I was there as well.

21:58Ifrah F. Ahmed:Yeah, I can imagine, you know, obviously you grew up eating a lot of Somali food at home. But to go back to Somalia and be having that same food, but being made with ingredients that are local to that place must have felt really interesting.

22:10Aliza A. Williams:Yeah, I mean, and it was delicious, right? Like, it's like you're eating the same dish, but it's completely different, right? And then also finding out about like sort of local variations on things that maybe are more common, like once you're in Somalia and less so once you're, you know, living abroad. Yeah, it's just it's like night and day kind of difference. It's almost like am I still eating the same cuisine, you know?

22:35Ifrah F. Ahmed:Yeah, I feel like one thing I really like about your book is the way that you talk about the way that food can evolve and be, you know, authentic to different people in different places. And I guess to take a step back, I'm wondering if you could speak to what is the idea behind your book and how long have you been kind of thinking about it or developing it?

22:52Aliza A. Williams:I have been thinking about this book as far back as like 2017, 2018, which was around the time that I really was heavily thinking about switching careers. But, you know, we're still doing a lot of kind of like legal work and sort of like working up the courage to transition. Right. um and yeah this book like it's so interesting that I knew that I wanted to do it before I hadn't even really done anything else um you know on like I hadn't launched milk and myrrh yet I hadn't um been doing like food writing like formally you know I've always kind of been a writer sort of like my whole life but I hadn't had anything um you know like published you know in the food industry, et cetera.

23:39Aliza A. Williams:But I was like sensing as I was coming up with the idea for the pop-up, like the pop-up in the book kind of came, you know, the ideas for both around the same time. And the more that I sort of like was developing the idea of like the pop-up and realizing, oh, there's like a real gap here in terms of, you know, like the availability and like knowledge of Somali cuisine on a wider scale, I was also realizing that there aren't really a lot of resources to work from in terms of like recipe development or even just trying to provide like culinary education, Somali culinary education for people that may not have heard of like Somali food or maybe don't know what it is like made up of.

24:22Aliza A. Williams:So yeah, I would say that they both sort of came at the same time and really sort of like from me realizing, you know, like in my own endeavors to try to create these things, I didn't even have a lot of resources to work from, like myself, beyond what I had grown up with or the few resources that were out there already. Yeah.

24:42Ifrah F. Ahmed:And that's something that you, you know, write about and have spoken about is the fact that Somali culture is this really beautiful, mostly oral tradition. And you're doing the work of writing things down. And that is one of the reasons that there is kind of not as much information previously available, right? Totally.

24:57Aliza A. Williams:Totally. Yeah. It's like, even with the recipe development. You know, like I think I once tweeted about how like for me and for I'm sure a lot of other people that come from oral sort of like culinary traditions, we're not just doing like recipe development work. Like we are wearing many hats and there are a lot of steps that we need to take before we can even get to the point of developing a recipe like our, you know, colleagues. And there's a lot of research that needs to be done that there are people to track down and talk to. It's not as easy as, you know, just like opening up a book or doing like a Google like search and finding the answers that you need.

25:36Aliza A. Williams:And so because of all that sort of like fact finding that we're doing, it's like, you know, you're an archivist, like you're a historian, like you're basically wearing all these, you're a researcher, you're doing all these different tasks to even get to the point where you can begin to start developing a recipe. Yeah.

25:54Ifrah F. Ahmed:And really in this book, you are an archivist, you are a researcher. The book starts with this history of Somalia that goes back to like, what is it, 9 CE, 7 CE. I was blown away. Like, what was that kind of research and reporting process like?

26:08Aliza A. Williams:The historical section was the most difficult part of this book, mostly because it's like, again, we're an oral culture, you know, and if things were documented or written down, a lot of it was also in like Italian university archives. For example, I don't speak Italian. You know, my mother speaks Italian. I don't speak Italian. So like even if the research or the sources existed, sometimes they're in a totally different language or they're being held by an institution that I didn't have access to. And so, or sometimes there are even, you know, like resources that are inaccurate. You know, I dealt with this a lot where I would find a source and then I would take it to one of my friends who have an academic background in this.

27:02Aliza A. Williams:And they would say, that's completely incorrect. And then I would have to go back and rewrite what I had written according to the more accurate information. And so it literally, the research part, I was pulling my hair out. I was like, this is so difficult. You know, it should be, you know, fairly straightforward and, you know, a fair world to just write about a history of a people. But there's so much to account for that, you know, like I don't have access to. And so a lot of the way that I was able to sort of like confirm this information was really relying on like my networks. You know, I've been chronically online since I was like 12 years old.

27:45Aliza A. Williams:And so I've built a network of Somali, like, creatives and academics globally that I have become friends with that, you know, are all sort of experts at something. And so if I needed to find a particular source, like, I would hit up, like, my friend Ibrahim, for example, who he's a poet and an academic and runs also an archive. And so he had access to these like really like niche sort of like sources and like Italian university archives. And so he would send me like like oral recordings of like Somali women from like a certain era talking about how to make a specific, you know, dish, for example.

28:25Aliza A. Williams:Or so that was more in the recipe development kind of like side. But then in terms of like the actual academic history, I have two friends who, you know, are also of my like online friends. And, you know, they're both professors, they're both Somali professors who got their PhDs in Somali history from Harvard. And so one of them, for example, sent me her dissertation. And I was able to, like, get a lot of sort of like, confirmation of what I had written that way. and so like leaning on the community as well you know and people who have the expertise and the academic background to sort of like corroborate like a lot of what I had been written that what I had written that was basically like the process in addition to you know like the regular sort of like books and online research and recordings and just talking to elders as well yeah I mean I really

29:19Ifrah F. Ahmed:I have to commend you on cultivating that community and using it for this book because it's so evident, the level of detail and research and care that went into that section. And I can see what it means for a Somali person to have that written down, but also for someone like myself who maybe isn't as familiar with the history and the culture to be able to read about the fact that Somalia was colonized by Italy. And that's why pasta is a big factor in the cuisine. Like these kinds of obviously nothing is happening in a vacuum and the history is what impacts the food in a lot of ways. I think it makes a lot of sense to lead off the cookbook that way.

29:52Aliza A. Williams:Yeah. And I actually, you know, like when I was thinking about this book, I actually wasn't sure that it was going to be a cookbook. Like I didn't know if this was just going to be like an academic, like culinary sort of like history or examination of like Somalia. and ultimately I decided that it needed to be a cookbook because through like my like pop-up my chefing work and then also like a lot of my recipe development work both at the times and you know at other publications you know I'd noticed that like there had been really a sense of like appreciation from Somali-like people for having these recipes like documented and I also realized that a lot of the knowledge of what the cuisine was like a lot of that was sort of getting lost right um or at risk of like getting lost especially for those in the diaspora and sort of like future generations and so for me like as much as I wanted it to be like an academic sort of like book um I really wanted to make sure that people had the blueprint of what this cuisine is and knew how to make it and had like a base to work off of to like sort of understand Somali like culinary traditions.

31:09Aliza A. Williams:But I also knew that I didn't want it to be just a cookbook. You know, for me, having that historical sort of like information and like opening up the book that way was very intentional because you can't have an understanding of just the recipes, you know, in a vacuum, as you said. Like there needs to be an understanding of like how this cuisine came to exist, how the country developed, how the culture developed, how Somali people developed because all of that really, you know, shows through like our food, but neither exists like in a vacuum.

31:41Ifrah F. Ahmed:Totally. And let's talk about that blueprint of what Somali cuisine is. Maybe for someone listening who's never had the opportunity to have it before, are there any like core flavors or techniques that you think of as being really essential?

31:52Aliza A. Williams:You know, in terms of flavors, I would say, you know, it's a very sort of like, like for example, we have like the heart of our sort of like savory food is a spice mix called how ash. And it's like usually at least seven spice, sometimes more mix. And it's like, you know, a lot of sort of like warming sort of flavors, you know, like cumin, coriander, black pepper, cinnamon, cardamom is huge as well. And that really, you know, is sort of flavors that you can find around you know a lot of indian ocean sort of like countries and along indian ocean like trade routes and so i would say that's sort of like the backbone of our cuisine um i think like you know for those that maybe don't understand the history you know like for example there there's a sort of phenomenon phenomenon where people will go to a somali restaurant like non-somalis and they'll say like why is there spaghetti on the menu you know like why am i being served a banana like next to my rice like do i eat it with the rice do i eat it by itself is it an appetizer and so a lot of those things are related to like our history our history you know um so i would say you know we have a lot of similarities with um neighbors especially along the indian ocean trade routes um so in terms of like you know we have like spiced rice for example um or like one pot rice and meat dishes like baris is kukaris you know we have um angero which is you know not the same as ethiopian and eritian angera and is made with uh totally different you know like flowers like sorghum and corn and it's a smaller sort of like sourdough pancake um that we eat and it visually looks very similar um to an indian dosa for example right like they look nearly identical And so there's just like a lot of overlap in cuisines for sure.

33:52Aliza A. Williams:And so you'll find the pasta, you'll find these sort of aromatic rice dishes and these really like savory sort of like slow cooked like meats. And then you'll find like spiced tea, for example. So shah, you know, is just like a super aromatic black tea. and there's also a lot of sweets, you know, cakes and cookies and things like that. And then, you know, we really utilize like chilies and like hot sauces and things like that. Somali food is not an inherently like spicy cuisine. A lot of our spice is like our hot sauces are usually on the side and it's sort of an optional thing, but it is a very flavorful cuisine.

34:36Aliza A. Williams:And so, yeah, I would say it's sort of a balance. But I think like when we are talking about Somali cuisine, there is a tendency to really want to over attribute like our cuisine to like Italian food or something or like Italian colonization. And while that influence is there, there's also like a rich, you know, indigenous cuisine already that was already there. And so I think that really gets overlooked as well.

35:01Ifrah F. Ahmed:Yeah, I think that's such a great overview. And one thing that I appreciate about your book is the way that it kind of breaks it down into different meals of the day. I think that's a really kind of natural way to kind of eat through something either like with your eyes or actually while cooking it. And I think the breakfast chapter is like such a banger. Like I feel like Somali breakfast goes really hard.

35:21Aliza A. Williams:It does. Yeah. That's actually probably my favorite chapter. Yeah. You know, it felt natural to divide it up in this way of like times of the day and less so like these really formal kind of like Western concept of like this is soup chapter. Yeah. You know. And so, yeah, I love the I love the breakfast or I love the morning chapter. I my favorite breakfast actually is Angero. so basically the you know the sourdough pancake that i was talking about and so what we do is you'll have fresh angero that's like the most common breakfast of somali's and one thing that i really love is that you know across households um in somalia like at night you'll hear the sounds of people making the angero batter so it's like this slapping sound where the the batter is getting kind of slapped into like the bowl to introduce air into you know the the batter and that's like just like such a beautiful thing that you can hear, you know, you know, across like households, basically, so that the batter is ready the next day.

36:24Aliza A. Williams:And so people are usually having anjaro and you'll have it with like various things. But my favorite way, and I think the most common way to have it is you have the anjaro and then you have ghee or subak, as we call it, spread on top of the anjaro. And then it's sprinkled with a little bit of sugar or some people do honey, but sugar is like very common and then uh you'll pour shah or spiced like black tea over it and then some people you know also love to have it with otka which is this sort of like beef jerky that's also cooked in ghee and like cardamom and it's very like salty kind of like nutty buttery and you have that with like the the sourdough pancake and like the all together They're soaked in like the sweet, like spice tea.

37:11Aliza A. Williams:It's amazing.

37:12Ifrah F. Ahmed:I'm so hungry right now talking about that. It's like such a beautiful kind of spice, like flavorful version of like the diner pancakes and like meat. The sweet and salty. Yeah. I love that. And I think the dessert chapter also is such a standout to me. Maybe since you talked about your first encounter with American cake on the plane, can you speak to what kind of Somali desserts are appearing in the book?

37:35Aliza A. Williams:Yeah, there's, you know. Like I tried to sort of do it's hard because like there's so much sommelier food, you know, to the point that like, you know, people would be like, oh, do we have enough recipes to like fill a cookbook? And I'm like, dude, I had to cut so many recipes because I can do all of them, you know. So I tried to really do sort of like the standout kind of like main desserts that people know. I'm sure there are several missing, but like our standard kind of cake, it's just called dolcio, which, you know, is very similar to the Italian word for dolce. And, you know, that's basically just like a very light, sort of like airy cardamom cake.

38:17Aliza A. Williams:My favorite cake in there is dolcio timir, which is a date cake, like a Somali date cake. and it's just it's just incredible it's very moist you know and sweet but like very balanced and I know a lot of people especially Somalis and like the UK do sort of like a syrup like a date syrup a sticky toffee kind of vibe but I like to keep it like the very traditional just like the date cake I think that's enough that's sweet enough there's halwa in there which is like um i feel like it's so sometimes it can be tricky to describe halwa because some people have like their own understanding of like halwa you know um but the somali version is like this very like sticky like reddish orangish um like dessert gelatinous like dessert and um yeah it's very very sweet and it's made fresh and i actually had such an incredible experience when we were Bacaro market, Sukho Bakaraha, which is one of, if not the largest market in Somalia.

39:26Aliza A. Williams:And my aunt actually works there. She has a clothing sort of business there. But we got to go to the bakery section and ask the bakers if we could shoot. And I remember there being this large vat of halwo being made sort of in the ground and like looking over at the guy, like just stirring it like, and it's just this like sort of molten, like reddish oranges, orange like gelatinous like dessert. And you're just like, wow, like this is incredible. It looks like lava almost, you know?

40:00Ifrah F. Ahmed:Yeah, I'm so glad you mentioned the shoot because the photos in this book are so incredible. What was that process? Did you always know that you wanted to go and shoot in Somalia?

40:09Aliza A. Williams:Yeah, so to my knowledge, I think this is the first time a cookbook has been shot on location. in Somalia and for me that was very very intentional because I really wanted this like this book is for Somali people first and foremost right and I really wanted especially for those who hadn't been back or haven't been able to I really wanted them to see their home right I really wanted them to get an understanding of you know like Somalia and like visually like what everything, you know, kind of like looks like the energy, you know, just like, and I wanted to go to specifically because that's where I was born.

40:49Aliza A. Williams:That's my hometown. And the process of it was really, you know, it came together pretty quick. I asked Khadijo, who shot all the, you know, location photography to come from Nairobi. So she stayed at my mom's house in Mukhtisho, where like my extended family is. And, you know, we basically went around with my aunt. My aunt took a week off of work and the three of us went and traveled all around Mukhtisho in a tuk-tuk or a bajaj as we call it in Somali and just literally went around the city with my aunt. Some things were prearranged, but a lot of that stuff kind of fell through. I think there was maybe some like nervousness on like, you know, the ends of like some people who like maybe initially agreed Then later, sort of like, you know, didn't feel comfortable.

41:39Aliza A. Williams:But we didn't take anything without permission. You know, we're very intentional sort of like about like all the shots and everything. And yeah, it just was the three of us in a dream and Khadija's cameras. And, you know, there was a little bit of like some security stuff because there's a lot of checkpoints like in Mokhtisho. And sometimes it's like one camera, you're a hobbyist, two cameras. What are you doing? What are you up to? what's going on what's this about you know kind of like vibes and so there was that aspect of it too where it was like oh are we going to be able to get through to this area or you know are we going to be sort of like checked etc but it was amazing and then in some spaces like you know we did a shoot of like the fish market for example and um there for example that was like a lot of men were there you know and so it's just like sort of like what are what are these girls up to like what's going on but I found that a lot of people were super excited um and once they were told sort of like what was happening and everything but yeah it was very intentional for me to go to to go to Somalia and to shoot the book there because for me like I can't write a book called Somalia about Somali food and people and culture without also showing what Somalia is like and including the rich landscape of like the country and its people yeah I think it really matches so

42:58Ifrah F. Ahmed:well with the care that you took to be talking about the history of this country and what it's like today as well. And then the recipe photos, did you shoot those back here in the U.S.?

43:06Aliza A. Williams:We did the recipe shots in studio and Dua Al Qadi did those. And those were very beautiful. And what I really loved is that although Dua and Qadija were shooting two completely different things, their photo styles really went well together and really were sort of in conversation with one another and I felt like like I love both of their work you know they're both incredibly talented and like it just came out like even more beautifully than I could have

43:39Ifrah F. Ahmed:ever imagined yeah when I was you know reading the book I kind of went back to figure out who was shooting what and if they were two different people because they match so well together for the recipe photos specifically did you have preferences or dreams about like what the styling like how the overall shoot would kind of look and come together?

43:56Aliza A. Williams:Yeah, I mean, we had like the whole team was on, you know, we had like a mood board going. And, you know, like I would say like with this book, I feel like I was involved at every like aspect of it. You know, like literally the in-studio shots in New York, like I would be up in the camera like, can you move that grain of rice? You know, like that's how like I was like involved with this book, like every aspect of it. Like I, you know, wanted to weigh in and like because to me, this is like something that is like my dream book. Like it's my baby, you know. And, you know, luckily, like everyone I worked with was incredible and was super understanding of that.

44:39Aliza A. Williams:And there was a real sense of like this is special, you know, and like we're all going to do the best that we can. And what I really loved about the New York shoot also, like I was able to, I had my friend who runs an archive. He basically buys back Somali artifacts that have been looted by European collectors. And so he came from, he was on vacation and then he flew to Toronto where he lives and brought me these artifacts in a suitcase. Like Somali artifacts from the 1700s, 1800s, early 1900s. And they're used, some of those are used in the in-studio photo shoot, the recipe shots that we did.

45:20Aliza A. Williams:Those artifacts were able to be used in that shoot as well.

45:24Ifrah F. Ahmed:That's so meaningful. And is that the cover photo? Can you speak about that?

45:30Aliza A. Williams:No, that's not the cover photo. So the cover photo, I'm holding a kal en moye, which is a mortar and pestle, and that I brought back from Somalia on one of my trips back home. and um so the artifact is not there but it's in the like this i think it's like the the spread like the with the blue background yeah um some of the artifacts are in there and then also the fabric that blue fabric is a geres um which is basically like this like this fabric that like belonged to belongs to my mother and is like one of the fabrics that she brought back from somalia like when we first came to the country so it's been with us since we got here so that's the background of um the second sort of like food spread but the cover i'm wearing um uh lindi which is basically a very traditional indigenous somali like fabric like print um and so to me that's like really a symbol of like somali nimo or somali identity and the kalenda moya the mortar and the pestle is really a symbol of like somali culinary heritage um so that that was the cover and that's

46:33Ifrah F. Ahmed:me on the cover yeah I thought it was your hands I recognize yeah yeah the posture was there a conversation about choosing that image as opposed to a food photo for the cover um you know like we

46:44Aliza A. Williams:looked over a bunch of different options and like I was sent like a file with like potential like covers and I saw that one and I saw like what is my current cover and I immediately went that's my cover like I want this like that's my dream cover and I you know I wasn't sure if like it would like get the green light like if we would get the green light to use it obviously because it's not a food cover but for me like it was really important that like I like my cover was something that really showcased like Somali heritage because to me like yes this is a cookbook and like obviously the mortar and pestle sort of nods to the like that culinary heritage but it's like not just a cookbook like there's so many other elements happening in this book um and for me like I wanted it to feel really like also like an art book like cover you know and something that wouldn't ever feel dated or you know kind of like it's just something that could really be a classic right so that like and also really speak to Somali people I knew if a Somali person saw that cover they would immediately know what it was and that it was for them.

47:56Ifrah F. Ahmed:Yeah, I think that really resonates and makes sense. And just on this idea of heritage, I'm curious, as a recipe developer and as someone who is trying to make this book, how much were you balancing having a really traditional version of a dish as opposed to your personal version or a more contemporary version?

48:12Aliza A. Williams:This is almost entirely a traditional book. I think for me, it sort of goes back to the mindset of I took when I do recipe development for the times versus when I do like my own pop ups. Right. And so like for me, because I thought of this book as something that could be sort of like long lasting and as sort of like a gift for my generation and future generations to really understand Somali cuisine, like there had to be an understanding of what the blueprint of these recipes are before I can even try to do it. to add anything or change anything because like that fundamental knowledge itself is at risk of being lost and so if I'm not able to like preserve that it's difficult to add you know other variations on top of that I wanted people to have that base knowledge first and so that's also what I do when I do recipe development for other publications but then when I do like my pop-ups I feel more creative freedom to do sort of a reimagination of what Somali cuisine could be, but still incredibly rooted in the traditional sort of, you know, like techniques and like flavors and ingredients.

49:24Ifrah F. Ahmed:So totally like knowing the fundamentals before you kind of riff off of them. Exactly. I have to say, though, the like Somali breakfast burritos that you were doing at one of your pop ups, I really would like to eat one of those.

49:35Aliza A. Williams:Well, that might be coming back very soon. Now I'm out of cookbook writing hiatus. You know, I haven't been doing a lot of like pop-ups for the last couple of years because this book was such a massive like undertaking. And so now I'm kind of, you know, like the book's done. So I'm looking forward to like cooking in a more professional capacity again. That's exciting to hear.

49:56Ifrah F. Ahmed:Maybe to tease it for someone who's listening, what's the Somali breakfast burrito?

49:59Aliza A. Williams:Sure. I was making something called an Angero burrito. So I started this basically when I was sort of doing a sabbatical in L.A. a couple of years ago and really noticing the love that L.A. has for breakfast burritos. As someone from L.A., that's why it speaks to me. Yeah. Well, hey, I'm glad that that works out. But yeah, so I was in L.A. and I was like, what would sort of a Somali take on this be? And, you know, what's interesting is that, like, I grew up eating, like, anjero, and you would have it with ful and with eggs and with the baspas, which is basically, you know, the fava bean stew, the eggs, and then the hot sauce with the anjero.

50:42Aliza A. Williams:But, you know, it's literally what I grew up eating, but all I really changed was, like, the way that it's served, which is basically everything rolled up into, like, a kind of a burrito form and served that way. So that was the Angero like pop-up set, Angero burrito pop-up that I was doing in Seattle, LA and like New York. And yeah, the response was just like wild. Like I feel like I would like post something and say like, oh, I'm, you know, like pre-order here and then it would just sell out, you know, immediately.

51:08Ifrah F. Ahmed:Well, I mean, it's such a delicious combination of foods and then also in that convenient portable burrito format. Exactly. Exactly. I get it. I'm grinning. I'm really excited about that. When you want your spring break to feel like. And your kid's pool day to feel like. And your hotel bed to feel like. Ooh, and room service to feel like. Because at Hilton, hospitality feels like.

51:37Aliza A. Williams:Your cabana's ready. Would you like fresh towels?

51:39Ifrah F. Ahmed:It matters where you stay.

51:43Aliza A. Williams:Book now at Hilton.com. Hilton, for this day. I'm R.J. Decker, a private investigator.

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52:04Aliza A. Williams:It's someone bigger. And a public mess. Trying to get someone back to prison today? You go to prison one time and suddenly it's all the jokes. R.J. Decker, series premiere, Tuesdays on ABC and stream on Hulu.

52:20Ifrah F. Ahmed:This episode is brought to you by Nespresso. Introducing Virtuo Up, the latest in a long line of innovation from Nespresso. It's innovation you can touch, sense, and taste in every single cup. With a three-second start, easy open lever, and dedicated brew over ice button, it's even easier to enjoy your coffee your way. Sip for yourself. Shop Virtuo Up exclusively at Nespresso.com. and to close today i want to play a rapid fire game with you so i'm going to have you pick some favorites okay okay just say the first thing that comes into your head it'll be fine

52:56Aliza A. Williams:so start your favorite cookbook right now um i go back to a couple but i would say my everyday lagos um by my friend yawande is just incredible it's a great book your go-to late night snack? Ooh, I'm a reformed, um, sweet late night, sweet eater. Uh, so it's like literally just any dessert would be like, you know, um, like my late night snack plus tea. I'm always having tea. Yeah. Your favorite ice cream flavor? Um, ube. Um, there's a company in Seattle called Elanos that makes like a really, really good ube flavored, um, technically it's frozen yogurt, but let's just pretend it's ice cream.

53:40Ifrah F. Ahmed:We'll allow it. A Somali dish that you think should be more widely known in the U.S.?

53:46Aliza A. Williams:Probably otka. I mean, there's a lot of amazing dishes, but otka, I would say, the sort of like nutty, like beef jerky, you know, cooked in ghee and cardamom. It's amazing. Yeah, it seems like something everyone could really get behind. Yeah.

54:02Ifrah F. Ahmed:Your favorite special occasion restaurant?

54:04Aliza A. Williams:You know, I'm kind of like a special occasion. Like I'm more into like doing that at home. So I don't have an exact answer for that. Your house.

54:13Ifrah F. Ahmed:My house. A restaurant that is not in your neighborhood that you magically wish could be your neighborhood restaurant.

54:20Aliza A. Williams:A wash, but the one in the East Village. That one specifically. Why that one? I just think the food is the best there. Like they have several locations, but that's like, I don't know what they're doing at that location, but it's good. And I wish it was within walking distance.

54:40Ifrah F. Ahmed:Okay. Okay. Finally, a fictional food scene like from a book or a movie or something made up that you wish you could eat in real life.

54:48Aliza A. Williams:The chocolate cake from Matilda. I know that that was a scene in which that child was suffering, but the quality of the cake just looked incredible. And I was really inspired by sort of how he turned the situation around in the end and was victorious. Yeah, he suffered and then he overcame.

55:05Ifrah F. Ahmed:Exactly. I think you could do the same. Exactly. I did. You did. Ifra, this has been so much fun. Thank you for coming on the show. Thank you for having me.

55:20Ifrah F. Ahmed:This is Taste is hosted and produced by Matt Rodbard and me, Eliza Abarbanel. The show is edited by lead producer Clayton Gumbert and supervised by Pat Stango, director of media production and development at Penguin Random House. Thanks to Shalia Harris and the production team at Penguin Random House. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Episode portraits by Louise Zergang Pomeroy Logo design by Ellie Skurzat and Ian Dingham Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com And make sure to subscribe to our newsletter to keep updated on all cool things in the world of taste

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From the publisher

Ifrah F. Ahmed is a Somali-born, Brooklyn-based writer, chef, and artist whose work centers around food, history, culture, memory, and migration. For years, she’s been sharing Somali food through her pop-up Milk and Myrrh and as a contributor to New York Times Cooking—and now, she’s releasing a gorgeous debut cookbook, Soomaaliya. It’s a pleasure to have Ifrah on the show to talk about the joys and challenges of translating an oral tradition into a cookbook, the rich legacy and influences of Somali cuisine, and much more. 

And at the top of the show, Aliza talks about my recent trip to Tokyo, covering many stops along the way including Ramen Jazzy Beats, Nasu Oyaji, Laekker, and the Mori Art Museum.

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