766: The NYT's Freshest Voice Is Arguing About Pizza and the $40 Half Chicken with Luke Fortney

27 Apr 2026 · 1 h 2 min · 31 chapters

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In short

Food writing and restaurant culture, centered on Luke Fortney’s NYT work and his reporting on pizza, fusion, and “Where to Eat” newsletters; plus three NYT/food-writing stories (tinned vegetables, a viral garlic bread TikTok, and webcam line tracking).

Guest backgrounds

Luke Fortney is a journalist who covered New York’s restaurant scene at Eater (won a New York Press Club Award for a piece on flour tortillas). He now contributes weekly to the New York Times “Where to Eat” newsletter, writing Thursday “three-restaurant” mashups.

Key claims

Great food writing is deeply reported (often requiring many visits); fusion is no longer a “dirty word” when it’s rooted in chefs’ real backgrounds; pizza quality depends heavily on whether the owner is behind the counter; algorithm-driven virality can distort food discourse.

Notable examples

Pangat’s vegetarian thali; Sapsua’s Hanoi-style chakalavong; Nobu’s “Nobu taco”; King Umberto (Long Island) grandma slice; F&F in Brooklyn (clam); Nona’s (Staten Island) upside-down triangle slices; Dan Barber’s $8 tinned vegetables; Tammy Teclamerium’s viral “deranged” garlic bread TikTok; Damn Lines webcams outside Industry Pizza, Breakfast by Salt’s Cure, John’s on Bleecker, and Salt Hanks.

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

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Discussion of Season Three Characters

0:41 to 1:15

Exploring the most compelling and surprising characters from Tell Me Lies season three.

“It turned out there were a few chefs who were kind of full-throated fusion defenders.”

Food Writers and Their Craft

1:15 to 1:58

Host Matt Rodbard introduces the concept of food writers discussing their craft.

“It's the return of food writers talking about food writing.”

Introducing Luke Fortney

1:58 to 2:14

Meeting Luke Fortney, a food writer from New York Times and Eater.

“Well, it is the return of food writers talking about food writing.”

Restaurant Visits and Memorable Meals

2:14 to 3:56

A conversation between Matt and Luke about their recent restaurant experiences.

“And listen, buddy, we don't know each other.”

Exploring Vietnamese Food

3:56 to 5:54

Discussion on the evolution and appreciation of Vietnamese cuisine.

“I was in Mumbai and I got to go to Gujarati Thali.”

Luke's Role at New York Times

5:54 to 8:00

Luke shares insights about his job covering restaurants and writing for the Times.

“That, I mean, nothing like Vietnamese food makes me miss home.”

Writing the Where to Eat Newsletter

8:00 to 10:03

Luke discusses the process of writing and curating the Where to Eat newsletter.

“I was recording this on the previous Thursday.”

Assessment of Restaurants

10:03 to 11:41

Luke talks about how he assesses restaurants and the importance of positive experiences.

“You know, early on with the newsletter, it was a little bit more critical.”

New York City Pizza Scene

11:41 to 14:00

A deep dive into the ever-changing landscape of New York City pizza.

“crawl around a neighborhood to discover these great places.”

The Changing Landscape of NYC Pizza

14:00 to 14:48

Learn about the evolving pizzeria scene in New York City and factors affecting pizza quality.

“It's only, it's a walk-in, order at the counter.”
Show all 31 chapters

Judging Pizzerias: Criteria and Favorites

14:48 to 16:51

Discover the criteria for assessing pizzerias and hear favorite recommendations.

“yeah endless eating but I can tell you the number one thing that I noticed when I was judging those pizzerias.”

Experiences with Pizza Overload

16:51 to 18:53

Hear about the challenges of enjoying pizza after extensive tasting experiences.

“I also loved F &F, the slice shop in Brooklyn.”

Discussion on Tinned Vegetables

20:30 to 21:58

Explore the emergence and pricing of premium tinned vegetables.

“Let's talk about some food writing, shall we?”

Perceptions of Pricing in Food Trends

21:58 to 25:58

Delve into consumer reactions to high food prices and the implications.

“Have you tried roast seven tinned vegetables?”

Viral TikTok and Garlic Bread Controversy

25:58 to 28:00

Analyze a viral TikTok incident involving garlic bread and its social implications.

“We're actually not going to talk about the story.”

The Viral Video Phenomenon

28:00 to 29:00

Discussion on a viral video and its implications on social media culture.

“Just bring your friend's details into it and just like show this like who is the person you were saying this to that was kind of the A character in this was the off-camera friend.”

Normalizing Public Criticism

29:00 to 30:20

Exploring the normalization of public criticism and hate messages online.

“I mean, like, I think it's so funny that a video like this went viral.”

Impact of Algorithms on Food Joy

30:20 to 31:20

Debating if algorithms have diminished the joy of food experiences.

“Or in Tammy's case, someone is just like out to dinner with their friend.”

Responding to Hate Online

31:20 to 33:00

Insights on how engaging with online hate can shift perspectives.

“I'm usually immediately clicking into the comment section and reading the commentary about the video, which probably gets us to this issue right now.”

Fusion Cuisine's Evolution

33:00 to 34:30

Exploring the resurgence of fusion cuisine and modern interpretations.

“There's sometimes like, you're so, there's a newsletter where I like quoted an elderly man in Flushing who thought I was Ben Affleck.”

Profiles in Culinary Innovation

34:30 to 36:25

Highlighting chefs who blend diverse culinary traditions.

“And we're like, I think Double Knot might just be a no-boo dupe.”

The Art of Modern Food Writing

36:25 to 38:30

Discussing the nuances and creativity in contemporary food writing.

“And he just is like jamming those things.”

The Shift in Fusion Perception

38:30 to 39:15

Discussion on how fusion cuisine is now more inclusive and respectful.

“And I just love when chefs do this without apology.”

Writing with a Personal Touch

39:15 to 40:35

Exploring the balance of personal voice in food journalism.

“Like, it was really oriented as, like, let me show you this fun thing you haven't heard of or tried.”

Feeling Ancient in a Young World

42:01 to 43:14

The hosts discuss the generational gap in food culture and their reflections on age.

“I'm sure anyone listening to this is going to be like, you're ancient, dude.”

Tech Meets Food: Live Restaurant Lines

43:15 to 45:26

Exploring a new website that tracks restaurant lines in real-time and its implications.

“I, you know, Ted, Teddy, I'm not sure his first name, T.M.”

Lines and Dining Experience

45:27 to 48:09

Delving into the culture of waiting in lines at popular restaurants and its impact on dining.

“It doesn't define the culture of New York.”

The Controversial Ortolan Dish

48:10 to 52:12

A discussion on the controversial dish Ortolan, its preparation, and cultural significance.

“They don't mind the experience of waiting.”

Rapid-Fire Taste Check with Luke Fortney

56:10 to 58:45

Luke Fortney shares insights into his morning routine and writing process.

“Well, let's wrap up with the taste check on This Is Taste.”

Exploring Food Media and Influences

58:45 to 1:01:00

Discussion on food media consumption and the impact of social platforms.

“Yeah, no, I think it's actually the more common response when we talk on the show.”

Future Aspirations in Food Writing

1:01:00 to 1:02:12

Luke discusses his hopes for the future of his career in food writing.

“I wrote a newsletter about like restaurants hiding in plain sight, restaurants and grocery stores and punk rock venues.”
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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00Pepsi Prebiotic Cola, an original and cherry vanilla. That Pepsi taste you love, with no artificial sweeteners and three grams of prebiotic fiber. Pepsi Prebiotic Cola, unbelievably Pepsi. I am your host, Stassi Schroeder. Welcome to Tell Me Lies, the official podcast. What's the most unhinged thing of season three? Steven, because he's so evil. I do think he is misunderstood. You see everyone face consequences. It's intoxicating. The writers just know how to trick you. There's always a twist in this show. It's nothing you would expect. Tell Me Lies, the official podcast, now streaming and stream the new season of Tell Me Lies on Hulu and Hulu on Disney+.

0:52Are people still using the F word? It turned out there were a few chefs who were kind of full-throated fusion defenders. Different from the last era of fusion. These are not like white guy chefs kind of like pulling from places they went on spring break. These are like first generation chefs in a lot of cases. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbard. It's the return of food writers talking about food writing. Every couple of weeks, I invite a journalist to talk about their favorite recent food writing as well as their thoughts on the industry as a whole. On today's episode, I have a great conversation with Luke Fortney.

1:34Luke went from covering New York's restaurant scene at Eater, where he won a New York Press Club Award for a piece on flour tortillas, to contributing weekly to the terrific New York Times food newsletter, Where to Eat. On this episode, we talk about pizza, scheduling, and why some of the best food writing right now lives inside a 600-word newsletter. I hope you enjoy this episode.

2:03Luke Fortney, welcome to This Is Taste. How are you? Doing great. Thanks for having me. Well, it is the return of food writers talking about food writing. It is truly one of my favorite features we do here on This Is Taste. I love inviting in writers I respect. And listen, buddy, we don't know each other. I've just met you. We met in the lobby. It's crazy because I feel like we've been in the same circles for a minute. And love, I just respect what you do. Thanks so much. Yeah. Really appreciate that. It's very true. Because, you know, you're not just a terrific writer, a creator. You have a great voice, meaning you speak freely.

2:37But you put in the work, my man. Thank you. Really, you know, you go out and you have some meals. I have a lot of meals. There's some coming right after this. Okay, we can talk about that. Well, speaking of meals, I always like to start this show with, you know, a restaurant visit each of us have had that really just pops out, that excites you start? Oh my God, I have a great one. So my mom was in town this last Sunday. She's vegetarian, which I don't know if there's a better city to eat as someone who doesn't have meat, but it's always kind of a little thorny choosing a place for her to eat it.

3:15You know, we've done the Ada, which is great. We've done like most of the Indian restaurants around town, But this time we ended up in Park Slope at this place called Pangat. They, on Sunday, do this amazing Thali service. And it is just like you're at someone's mom's house and that mom is out to kill you with puri and so much food. Like they load you up with like a cafeteria tray of like mutton and fish or like vegetarian curry. And then by the end, they just bring out the big stainless steel vats from the kitchen and just like top everyone off with all the leftovers. It's amazing. It's like 60 bucks, too.

3:55It's incredible. I was in Mumbai and I got to go to Gujarati Thali. Amazing. What a cool way to dine. And it's two stars New York Times, right? Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. They just got a review. Just got a review. And kind of like kind of sneaky cool. I feel like that was the chef at Masala Walensan's. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, they moved two doors down, opened a restaurant. Spite restaurant. And, you know, it's like it's so cool because the menu they do normally is so different. It's a little bit more modern. Yeah, for sure. But on Sunday, they just like bring out every pot and pan and fire.

4:32Yeah, yeah. It's amazing. I love a restaurant that does like a Sunday special. Yeah. Like a supper or like this Tali style service. Totally. So I love that. My pick, I was just in Denver and doing a really cool special project that we'll have on the show soon. I got to go to Sapsua. Okay. Never heard of it. Yeah. It's this restaurant that has gotten tons of national press, like BA, Best New Restaurant. I believe it was in Food and Wine, possibly Best New Chefs. It's run by the husband-wife team of Ni and Anna Nguyen. And there's a dish that – have you ever had chakalavang? No. You know this dish?

5:08No, I don't even know. It comes from Hanoi. It's like this braised catfish with dill and turmeric. I was able to go to Hanoi maybe 15 years ago and have it at the source. There was a restaurant called Nightingale Nine in Brooklyn that Rob Newton did a version of it. So I've seen Chocolavong in America in various forms. And this version was so ill. It was basically a fish stick version of it with this turmeric dill aioli and nakcham on the side to dip. Oh, it was so good. It does sound ill. So good. They did a bonzeo with beef tartar. They did with Thai chili kosho. And really, this restaurant, so delicious.

5:48I mean, really, this is kind of modern Vietnamese food I love. And I was just so impressed with it. Awesome. Awesome. That, I mean, nothing like Vietnamese food makes me miss home. I grew up in Orange County. Yep. You know, Vietnamese food is so good. And New York is coming around. Yeah. But I feel like some of my best meals do happen in other places. Oh, my gosh. The O.C. in South L.A., Westminster. Yeah. So good. Even Philly. You know, it's like, yeah. Yeah, yeah. We're getting there. I love the way Vietnamese food has kind of evolved over the past decade. The next 10 years of modern Vietnamese food is going to be so interesting.

6:26Because of immigration and just like these incredible chefs. I feel we speak a lot about Korean food here. Yeah. Obviously biased. I feel the next decade could perhaps be modern Vietnamese moment. That's the take. And I agree with it. I feel that in my body. Well, before we get to some terrific food writing, I want to just talk to you a little bit. You were on the show with Eliza about a year and a half ago, and you've since landed at the New York Times. I'd love for you to describe your role there. As I mentioned, I just love the Where to Eat newsletter. I read every single one, all those voices.

6:57I'm just such a fan of this newsletter. Again, you should subscribe to the New York Times. It's worth it, not just for Wordle. Some people just are just getting it for Wordle. But tell me a little bit about your role and like how do you like to report on restaurants? Yeah, man, the Where to Eat newsletter is so cool. It's so cool because it's you have all these different voices chiming in on different aspects of the dining scene. So on Tuesday, you have reviews from Mahira, Mahira Rivers and Ryan Sutton. You have Nikita interviewing celebrities about where they eat. And then I come in on Thursday and write these sort of mashup restaurant recommendations.

7:41I think about it as telling a story about New York in three restaurants. So we're looking at like some trend, some moment. Maybe it's even just like sometimes it's an aspiration even. This next one, I don't know when this is coming out. This might get me in trouble. No, no, no. It's coming out. We're running this on Monday. Okay. I was recording this on the previous Thursday. Okay. So I'll spoil my own newsletter, but the next one is about 24-hour dining. So with an example like that, like that is an aspiration. I'm like, you know what? I see a couple places starting to lengthen their hours. Veselka's 24-hour again.

8:20I'm like, maybe by just like putting another log on the fire, it could encourage someone else to bring back this like cherished part of New York dining. um but how do i write the newsletter it's just like chronic obsessive unending eating like i am eating and eating and eating right up until the moment that i'm like emailing our photographer being like here's what you have to shoot filing the photo memos from restaurants often um and i don't think people realize often that it's like uh it's three restaurants in the newsletter, but to get down to those three choices, sometimes I'm going and eating like 12 to 15 bacon, egg and cheeses.

9:04Yeah, man. Which no grown man should do. No. No. No. I mean, really, we talk about this with a lot of the critics who've been on the show. I think a reminder of a conversation with Matthew Schneier about it. It's all about the what you don't write about. It is a reporting job. I mean, truly. Of course, there's art with the writing, but it's more so just like being the tastemaker out there. And putting in the work, do you feel the pressure sometimes when you're doing one of these big categories to make sure you can assess a restaurant in that one moment correctly and not like chalk it up to like a bad day?

9:40Yeah, yeah. You know, if I go to a restaurant and have a bad time, which happens all the time for both of us, I'm sure. I will usually put that in my back pocket for maybe a future newsletter and be like, okay, maybe I should give them another visit before, you know, offering my two cents on the experience. Honestly, I try and keep it pretty positive. You know, early on with the newsletter, it was a little bit more critical. There were a few restaurants I visited where we took the approach of, is this worth it? and you know through like feedback from readers and just how it felt to press publish and then read that we're like i think actually maybe it's it's better to just highlight what we're enjoying stay positive stay positive yeah and like you know the the the silence can be deafening that too that's you know yeah but i mean like reporting the newsletters is funny and i'm glad you said reporting because it feels like reporting a story like where you you ideally want to talk to sources and sources and sources until you start to hear the same thing and you're like okay i'm circling in on the truth and dining for this is similar where it's like i want to eat and eat and eat until i start to see repetition and be like this is the best i'm like perfectly like uh like these are three places I would go like ride the ferry to Staten Island for or go to Elmhurst or you know the Lower East Side let's pick that apart a bit because yeah when you say that um it's obvious how difficult it is to to say I am going to ride the ferry to Staten Island to go to these three places because you literally have to ride the ferry there not once but twice not twice but three times perhaps to actually find those three places yeah and like there is a finite amount of money and also time.

11:40So you're like really working hard when you're doing like a crawl around a neighborhood to discover these great places. It is so much time. It is all I think about most days. I wake up and one of the first thoughts in my head, aside from, wow, my stomach feels awful, time to get to the bathroom, is what am I going to eat today? It's the last thing I think about at night, what am I going to eat tomorrow? What am I going to eat next week? I'm just like constantly, I'm constantly on Reddit, Matt. I'm like always on Reddit. And I, I don't know. I'm, you know, like I just am like constantly scanning the internet and talking to people.

12:22And you know, like even before this, I'm like, I'm going to get your Rex from San Sebastian. Yeah. You're there. Yeah. Um, but it's a lot of time. This is where being freelance, I think really can be beneficial. Yeah. I have a lot of freedom to run around in a way that I might not if I was attached to a desk. And most of the eating that I do happens from nine to five. Yeah. Which helps me think of it as work. Yeah. So there is balance in your life. Totally. I think there's balance. There was less balance in the past. When you were an eater. When I was an eater. Because that's like, you know, not just the eating, but a little bit more output.

13:02That felt like having a nine to nine. Yeah. I feel like now I have a bit more of a nine to seven. Yeah. Maybe. Yeah. Sometimes I sneak in an early dinner, but yeah, I'm cooking more. I'm like, you know, yeah. Good. Yeah. I'm happy for you. Thank you. Thank you. I mean, it's not very complex. Any chefs watching or listening to this would probably be horrified to hear what I'm making. But listen, cooking is basically just turning on the stove. Yeah. Let's not let's not get crazy about it. Well, you're a famous endurance athlete when it comes to pizza work. And I look to you and you're kind of repetitive.

13:38You're reporting. You're continued reporting on this topic, which I think is hard because it's an ever-changing cast of characters. I mean, I just went to HOTS for the first time. It was really good. Nice. I went to SCARS and it was really bad. It was really bad. What's hot? Dude, bro. Let's go. Put me up. What is it? Right next to bar 169. Okay. It's like right on East Broadway. It opened like maybe a month ago. Wow. It's only, it's a walk-in, order at the counter. And honestly, there's literally nowhere to eat pizza except for on the plate outside. Or the ping pong table across the street. Ping pong table in the park.

14:23You could take it to 169, which possibly is open. and when I talk about scars it was just a bad visit I'm still optimistic about scars I think it's still very important and this is why I bring this up because pizza is ever changing the players are always changing we were talking about series last year and maybe we're not talking about series anymore we're talking about new players how do you assess New York City pizza and continue on the beat yeah endless eating but I can tell you the number one thing that I noticed when I was judging those pizzerias. The quality of a pizzeria is so one-to-one attached to whether you see the owner behind the counter.

15:04Yes. You mentioned scars. I'm not going to elaborate on this too much, but I do think this is a factor to be considered. The man is in a hundred places now. And you can only be somewhere once, or you can only be in one place at a time. And with these pizzerias, it's like, the difference between a good and great pizza is so small. It's so small. It might be a couple hours of like fermentation. It might be how thinly you puree the tomatoes. You know, it's like how much pepperoni you put on the slice. And those are all things that the person who owns the pizzeria hopefully cares the most about. And as soon as they're gone, someone else is executing your vision and it's a game of telephone.

15:49I totally agree. And like you say great things here, about like just naturally leavened pizzas and like thinking about flavor development and 12, 24, 48 fermentation. I mean, this is like table stakes basically for pizzerias here in New York. Totally. So much great pizza here. It's incredible. And so to like, you know, parse it into the top 10 or top 50, it's challenging. Can you give me just right now your top three? Okay, this is going to get me in trouble. Please. The internet will. Yeah, right. My favorite pizzeria from that journey where I ate like 200 something slices of pizza. You absolutely did.

16:27Was on Long Island. It was on Long Island at this place called King Umberto. They make what I think is, it was the best grandma slice I had during that entire like two, three month period. It's so thin. Like as thin as this compostable paper cup. You know, it is so thin. Crunches perfectly. It's amazing. If you have a car or some family in Long Island or a way to get there, that's great. I also loved F &F, the slice shop in Brooklyn. That's my, I mean, everyone who listens to the show, that's my number one or number two. The clam is amazing. There's just like so much good pizza happening in that like garage, probably like a former garage or something.

17:09Like it's amazing. It is. And then, whoo, man, geez. I know, I put you on the spot. You know, I'm like, okay, another great one is Nona's on Staten Island. I think this is a place that like 99 % of New Yorkers have never been to. I didn't even mention any of the old school Brooklyn spots, but like Nona's in Staten Island is so good. They use these like old rotating ovens that kind of, you know, work like a water mill. And it's just like teenagers behind the counter making the best like upside down triangle slices. Yeah, yeah. It's awesome. I love these recs, Luke. And I just saw Ryan reported on a place out in Jersey.

17:52Yeah. Out in whatever, like further out in Jersey than usually the times goes. Totally. Yeah. Yeah. I mean, a lot of great pizza is happening outside of New York right now. I don't mean like in the tri-state area. I mean, like across the country, it's never been easier to make pizza. And you're seeing some great, great shops open up because of that. And that was Corner Slice and Maplewood that he was reporting on, which I thought was pretty interesting. So I hope you stay. Are you like on this beat official? I, you know, I have heard whispers about the list coming back. Okay. This year. These things get updated about once a year.

18:29There's been no assignment yet. So I don't want any, you know, pizzerias to start, you know, shaking in their aprons. But it's something I've thought about every single day since I stopped it. because I really had to take like a three-month break from pizza after that. It was just something I could not bring myself to enjoy after breakfast, lunch, and dinner at pizza. Yeah, it's challenging when you go 200 slice deep in New York City. But now my stomach's crumbling. Yeah, buddy, I feel like we got to go back. On a recent episode of This Is Taste, I spoke with Erica Roby, barbecue champion, former criminal defense attorney, and the person who taught me exactly what to look for when buying a brisket.

19:09She wants striations. She wants white flecks throughout. She described it like a kaleidoscope. Because fat is flavor and that marbling is the whole game. It's what keeps brisket moist from the smoker all the way to the moment the judge takes a bite. We also heard from Tucker Brown, a sixth generation Texas cattle rancher whose family has been in business since 1895. That's episode 754 of This Is Taste. This episode is presented by Beef. It's what's for dinner. on behalf of the Beef Checkoff. Wayday is coming, and I want to talk about the room that actually matters. The one where you cook, eat, and argue about the top pizza in New York City, the kitchen.

19:52I've been slowly upgrading mine through Wayfair, and the thing I keep coming back to is how easy it is to actually narrow down what you want. Filter by style, read real reviews, and lean on Wayfair Verified, where their product specialists do a hands-on, 10-point quality check on everything. No guessing. Wayday runs through April 25th through 27th with up to 80 % off with fast and free shipping on everything. Head to Wayfair.com April 25th through 27th to shop Wayday. That's W-A-Y-F-A-I-R.com. Wayfair. Every style, every home. Let's talk about some food writing, shall we? Sure, yeah, yeah, yeah.

20:33I'd love to. First story. These are all great stories. I mean, this was a great gift. They were so good. Four stories we're going to talk about. The first one is The$8 Can of Vegetables by Stephanie Gans in Best Food Blog. Just can't stop reading Best Food Blog. The story is about The$8 Can of Vegetables is real and it's from Dan Barber. We all know Rose 7. Dan has been on the show to talk about his produce company. But recently, the chef at Blue Hill at Stone Barns and really the advocate for so many sustainable practices in food is in the premium tinned vegetables business. He launched three SKUs, the Badger Flame Beets, Sweet Prince Tomatoes, and Sweet Garlic.

21:15They're sold at Whole Foods and retail for$8 a can. You know, I think this is a really interesting dovetail. You know, we are definitely tinned-pilled. I mean, this is a lifestyle around tinned fish and the aesthetics of places, great places like Fish Wife and, of course, the Portugal travel meme that happened a few years back and girl dinner. These are all elements that play into this real boom of tinning things. And now we have vegetables. And, you know, there's a tension here because there's definitely an interesting point of view here. But we're still talking about$8 for a can of tomatoes.

21:54Tomatoes, it ends up being about a dollar a cherry tomato. Have you tried roast seven tinned vegetables? And what do you think about this story? So first off, how big, I meant to look this up before getting on camera, but how big are these tins? Is it like a standard anchovy filet, sort of like tin? Yeah, exactly. I've tried them. I've had them, all three of the tins. Nice. They might even be a little bit smaller, to be honest. Okay. So they're pretty shrunken down. So I have not tried them, but I've seen garlic at Whole Foods. Yeah. And actually I saw garlic. I swear at the Santa Monica farmer's market a couple of years ago.

22:36And Dan Barber was there. I think at that time they were really like pushing the products. I, you know, I don't know. I'm like, is this the next$40 half chicken is the tin of tomatoes? I don't know. But I – okay. So in general, tinned food is one of those trends that I talk to my family members in like rural Illinois about. And they're just like, huh? They're like someone's paying$10 for like tin mussels. And these are like people who like tin things as just like a lifestyle. Generational. Generational tinners. And they just like can't believe that anyone is doing this. But I do buy these things, you know.

23:26I don't know if it's like the little part in me that wants a little treat every time I go to the grocery store that I buy on credit or what. But I do find myself drifting towards that aisle where our incomes disappear with the chili oils and spiced mustards and then tinned vegetables and fish. But I don't know. I haven't tried it. But if there's a market for it, I'm all for it. It sounds like the farmers are being treated well. It sounds like this is – OK. I'll tell you this, Matt. Like these days, we're back in park season. It's pretty common for me to swing by a union market or Whole Foods or something on my way to the park and buy three different formed of pickled or tinned items and heap them all onto a bag of potato chips.

24:17Oh, sick. Yeah, I love that. Yeah, yeah. Really good. And you end up making a$50 snack. Yeah, yeah. But it's a fun treat. Beautiful treat. Great to share. It's definitely portable. Great call. Sure. Bring four or five tins, include some of these vegetables. and like I always struggled with the application for these but you just like kind of unlock something for me because definitely like alfresco like outside you could pull out a couple of these tins my review is like I think the honestly the leaks are the strongest tomatoes were the weakest I just did not like them I mean I really did not like the flavor a little astringent a little like kind of not getting the specialness of them I'm a big mooty guy tin cherries but again like this is like a small sample size meaning one time trying it.

25:02Yeah. And this is agriculture and it changes. But what about the piece was interesting. I think Stephanie did a great job of just this is like a thing, but there's like a lot of complexity. It's innovation. It's helping farmers. But also this price still I come back to as being a struggle point. Yeah. I would love to know how much money they're making on each of these$1 tomatoes. Yeah. Like because you see something like that again. This like goes back to the chicken thing like of like a$40 half chicken. you like when you see a price like that it immediately puts you in one of two camps you are like this is too expensive or you're like this is not expensive enough yeah and i don't think there's really a right answer but um i guess if you if you think it's too expensive maybe you should keep walking past that aisle that ruins our bank accounts yeah and that will obviously dictate especially in cpg and in the grocery store and and and for the record and anyone listen to the show.

25:57I am for it needs to be more. Yeah. I'm in that category of restaurants. You keep mentioning the half chicken. We're actually not going to talk about the story. Oh, okay, great. Because we're going to talk another one of your great stories. But I mean, that was quite the little thing that happened. Yeah. I mean, I think what these things. Maybe we should talk about it. Maybe a little bit. I think what these things get at, though, is just like when we're in the grocery store, when we're in restaurants, like the price is one of the first things you think about. it used to be you look at the menu line items and are like oh do i like saffron or olives and now you just jump straight to the end and are like how much does this thing cost yeah and i i mean we all feel it you know the economy is it's nuts and like the it shows up in the grocery store because most of us are in grocery stores maybe not you and i but more than restaurants yeah but off the dome eight dollars for a tin of tomatoes i think is a splurge Not so bad.

26:50Yeah, yeah. Not so bad. Portable luxury. Totally agree. Next story. You went viral for the wrong reasons, honey. I thought you were breaking news to me right now. It's like, oh, Jesus Christ. No, I was reading the A header for the great New York Magazine style there. You went viral for the wrong reasons, honey. After I posted a video of some garlic bread, TikTok took over. Our friend Tammy Teclamerium wrote this for New York Magazine. I loved it. Awesome story. To review its great piece. A 22-second TikTok clip of garlic bread accidentally went viral for all the wrong reasons. Tammy posted a throwaway video of her friend cutting into a$17 plate of focaccia with Bear Blanc at a Midtown restaurant and woke up two days later with over 100 ,000 views and comments sections aflame.

27:38The internet decided that Tammy was being rude to her friend. There were over 1 ,700 comments that were all over the place. One was, of course, you went viral for the wrong reasons, honey. And I love how Tammy is like checking back with her friend who is, you know, a French feminist human rights advocate. What a great detail. Great detail. You know, that's great reporting there. It's great. Just bring your friend's details into it and just like show this like who is the person you were saying this to that was kind of the A character in this was the off-camera friend. A victim. The victim, essentially.

28:13And the quote is, I know you think this is normal, but this is deranged. That's funny. And really, this shows how the algorithm is really torched and maybe at its worst. She asked her New York Magazine colleague, explain that, you know, TikTok essentially functions as an invisible pile on orchestrator. The platform identified an audience cluster and then kind of went to town with that. I like the little detail that she kept the video up. You know, she could have deleted it and moved on, but she wanted to kind of run a social experiment, and I love that. And really, the kicker, and Tammy knows how to do a kicker.

Read the full transcript

28:51The real villain is the garlic bread. It's not good. And that is the kind of final word. So good. What do you think of this piece? It's so good. I love this story. I mean, like, I think it's so funny that a video like this went viral. Obviously, it speaks to these being for-profit, algorithm-driven companies. But what's funniest to me is this is a horrible video. Not the content of it, but, like, you know, all respect to Tammy. She's one of my friends. Like, the quality of it is so low. I'm like, how did anyone watch this entire thing and then, you know, watch it possibly multiple times? She talks about people coming back to the video and commenting on other things she's posted later.

29:33I'm like, this is not worth anyone's time. So that's when you get to the conclusion that you're like, this is obviously being pushed to the exact right people with too much time. But I think the other takeaway is what her friend said. Like, this is deranged. And it speaks to just what we all have normalized, being like semi-public figures. Like, I sort of expect when I publish something about bacon, egg, and cheeses that I'm going to get a few hate messages. Somewhere in the vein of, like, you suck and a death threat, you know, in that spectrum. Oof, sorry, buddy. But, like, it's crazy. It's crazy.

30:15People don't often realize that there's just, like, a 30-year-old man, maybe slightly sick or hungover, sitting on the other end of the computer reading that. Yeah. Yeah. Or in Tammy's case, someone is just like out to dinner with their friend. Let's zoom out. Has this era of these extremely precise AI driven companies with these algorithms, has it really has it destroyed the joy of food in some ways? Loaded question. Yeah. Yeah. Has it destroyed the joy of food? Or on the flip side, I'll offer that to you. You know, has it just allowed more people to enjoy food and like grown the audience? and we care about the audience deeply.

30:53Going back 20 years, there's a very different audience caring about food. They were called foodies. Yeah. They were like in the minority. Now, it is the majority. It is truly one of the few water cooler topics. Yeah. The monoculture is food. Yeah. I mean, I think sometimes when I'm, you know, scrolling late at night or on the toilet in the morning, whatever, like, I think about like what I'm actually enjoying about what I'm watching. And these days, it's not usually the content itself. I'm usually immediately clicking into the comment section and reading the commentary about the video, which probably gets us to this issue right now.

31:33You know, it's like I, as much as anyone, am kind of like Ivy Drip hooked up to the scrum happening between Americans and bots, I guess. It might just all be bots. Very fair. A robo war. But yeah, it's like, something interesting though. This is a lesson from my editor, Tanya Saczynski at The Times. She gets a lot of hate. She has a very prominent YouTube show for her newsletter, The Veggie. Great newsletter. So good. Book out in the fall, plug in that. It's so good. Book out in the fall. The book's great. I've seen it. It's really, really good. It looks awesome. Come on. Yep. She responds to most of her haters over email.

32:19they'll send her some, I don't know, spiteful message about, you know, how her hair looked on one day, upset. And she'll respond and be like, hey, that's not very nice. And most people turn around and apologize. And they're like, you know, I was just like in a bad mood. I was late to work. Sorry. I didn't realize anyone read these. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And I just don't think most people think that there's like an impact actually or someone receiving it. Yep. I say that a lot. I agree with you. I think that a lot of times it's just mindless and like it's definitely catching people at a moment and they need some kind of release.

32:49World is tough for a lot of people and this is a great way to do it. Yeah. Great insight, Luke. I do it now too, though. I respond to all my haters. Great, yeah. There's sometimes like, you're so, there's a newsletter where I like quoted an elderly man in Flushing who thought I was Ben Affleck. And I mentioned this anecdote in, I was shocked, obviously, but like I mentioned this anecdote in the newsletter And within minutes, I got this message from this guy who's like, you egotistical, like self-centered, you know, fill in the blank. And I was just like, man, it was a quote. And also I was like, he said it, you know, I just was.

33:32And that guy never did apologize or respond. But I don't know. I like to think that he read the response at least. Yeah. I can't stop looking at your face, by the way. Oh. Like the fact you just said this. But you're like. I probably deserve that, actually. You're basically like, if Ben is the Dunkin' Donuts version, you're like the artisanal, like, liché pastry version of Ben. Oh, my God. Thank you. Jeez, that's really kind of you. That's what I'm saying. This is crazy that you just said that because I did not know that. No, no, no, no. We should stop talking about it right now. No, no, no. It's really funny.

34:06Just have to plug the— No, no, but it's a good point. Let's move on. Let's move on from Ben. Let's talk about one of your stories. At restaurants, fusion is no longer a dirty word. it's by Luke Fortney in the New York Times Fusion is back and this time nobody's embarrassed about it you open with a confession that you ordered tacos at Nobu and it sent you on a reporting journey let's just like you know start with that meal and what did you uncover in this really terrific piece okay so first it's important to explain how I ended up at Nobu which has been happening a lot these days like we were at a new restaurant, Double Knot, from Philadelphia, I believe, which we went to sort of as we had an article about dupes coming up.

34:55And we're like, I think Double Knot might just be a no-boo dupe. Yeah, yeah, yeah. We go. We had a pretty rough experience. It was very new. And about halfway through the meal, I've never done this before, we're kind of like, we got to run. Yeah, exact. We hit the eject button. I've never done it before. We hit eject, and we went straight to Nobu. And we're like, you know what? At this point, we might as well have the source material and scratch the itch. And so we ended up ordering this taco, the Nobu taco. Have you had this before? I've never had it. No, I mean, miso black cod is what I know.

35:27Of course. Of course, I'm on a giri into sushi, but it's been years. You should check this out. It's like a fried wonton wrapper stuffed with whatever you want, king crab, you know. Sounds delicious. It's like perfect fusion. It's perfect fusion. And so this got me thinking about, well, a place like Nobu doesn't call it fusion, right? They just call it Nobu style, literally. And I was like, are people still using the F word? And it turned out there were a few chefs who were kind of full-throated fusion defenders. Different from the last era of fusion, whenever that was. these are not like white guy chefs kind of like pulling from places they went on spring break or trained.

36:16This is like first generation chefs in a lot of cases. One of them, Eric Tran, who runs Fallen Sai in Greenpoint, is Mexican and Vietnamese, one parent from each heritage. And he just is like jamming those things. Jamming is not even the right word. He's like kind of like letting those things French kiss on a plate. It's awesome. It's awesome. And so I was like, I just wanted to zoom in on this idea. Yeah. Like, what do we call this thing? Is it still fusion? Yeah, and I love that you, you know, profile a Jai Jung at Cajun, which I think is, honestly, a kind of an underrated chef. Completely underrated restaurant.

36:56Yeah. The new one that she opened. Yeah. Also called Cajun, making it kind of difficult to find. It's outstanding. It's such a great restaurant. Yeah, so it's in Murray Hill is the one I know. Where's the new location? It's in Murray Hill, like a block away. Oh, interesting. There are two Cajuns in the world now, a block away. This one, though, is a lot bigger. The last one is like the size of a minivan camper. Yeah, yeah, yeah. This one has two floors. And it's the best kind of fusion where you don't even think about if it makes sense. You don't care. Yeah, yeah. And that's Korean Cajun. Korean Cajun.

37:32Yeah, yeah. There's this Galbi grits dish that she served at the original spot. Yeah. It's just like. And crawfish bibimbap. Perfect pairing. What the? Yeah. Really smart stuff. What's really funny to me is she obviously trained in New Orleans. Yeah. And she told me all these stories about the family meals she would cook down there. Making banchan with okra and things that she would just sort of sneak in. Yeah. And like, I was like, oh, what did these lifelong New Orleans people think about this that you're working with? And she's like, you know what? A lot of them started cooking it themselves.

38:08Like the flavors of like the fermented flavors, the spice of Korean cuisine just slots in so easily. Completely. I mean, the way I have written about this topic many times and I've defended the term just because I felt like I just didn't want to hate on the idea. and to me it just comes down to this is creativity at play this is taking two heritages that uh you know maybe personal may not be and two cultures and and putting them together but like doing it in a seamless way and paying tribute in a creative way right that's the most important thing it's not like a hackney like let's put yuzu in a carbonara because we want to just call you know you know attract two different, you know, diners.

38:52And I just love when chefs do this without apology. Yeah, yeah. Well, I think that's an interesting point because I think previous fusion was aimed at one type of diner. I think it was like, I'm kind of getting in so much trouble for saying this, but I think it was like white chef food for like white diners almost, you know? Like, it was really oriented as, like, let me show you this fun thing you haven't heard of or tried. Yuzu, you know, something like that. But with Training Wheels version. With Training Wheels, yeah. And now, though, it's like, this is fusion for anyone. It's fusion in the case of, you know, Eric Tran.

39:35You could go in and be Vietnamese. You could go in and be Mexican. You could be whoever. And there's, like, something that you're going to recognize in it. It's really respectful, thoughtful, I think. And so, you know, that was just like such an example. That was like one of my favorite newsletters I've done. Just like looking at this aspect of New York dining that's in plain sight, but we've overlooked for some reason. And when you say newsletter, because we're talking about food writing, because food writers talking, I mean, these are like reported features. Yeah. Like when you I mean, I think newsletter is it's like a term that can be many things.

40:10I mean, it's truly like this really deeply reported stories that have a lot of voice and color. And you're like you're doing this trick where you're like getting voice in your times. It's like not easy. Yeah. I like that you called it a coup. It is a coup. I wrote you that. It is a coup that you can report these stories. And I think it's credit to your editors and the team to realize that maybe this won't pass the style guide to get in like the the Wednesday blue bag hitting the door. but obviously people are reading the newsletter and to obviously have Times journalistic standards and have a lot of credibility and fact-checking and editing but also be able to go a little bit looser with the voice which I think is so, so good.

40:51Yeah. I don't know any other way to write, honestly. And I'm so glad that my editors have been supportive of it. They've at times told me to get weirder. You know, like I came in kind of in a suit and they're like, all right, loosen the tie, throw off the jacket, you know, and maybe cut the pants. And yeah, it's been, it's really cool. Like if you had told me like five years ago that I was going to be doing something like this and like, you know, writing fuck in the New York Times, I would never have believed you. What was the context? Was it like, oh fuck, like to yourself? Or were you like, like what's the fuck?

41:28Yeah, yeah, it's a quote. It was a quote. But still, I think that is a step in an interesting direction. I mean, including a fuck in a quote I've edited for years it has to be good. Yeah. You're not just throwing it in there. I'm trying to remember what the quote was. I'll text you later. Yeah, yeah, yeah. No, it's awesome. I also, I just, I don't know. Now I'm 30. I probably should be staying in more nights of the week. But I do think it's fun that there's like so much youth and food writing right now. You know? Yeah. I love it so much. I'm sure anyone listening to this is going to be like, you're ancient, dude.

42:05Ancient, my man. Sorry. But like, I felt ancient when I was getting frozen yogurt yesterday at Mimi's and like, you know, everyone's 13 years old in line. Did you read that story about Starbucks in Grub Street? I did. I did. Yeah, like that made me feel ancient. We could talk for a full hour about that one. Liz is coming on the show. We're going to talk about it. Perfect. Yeah. Perfect. Yeah. But yeah, I don't know. I think it's nice to have someone who is, I think what I add is someone who is just like constantly out. constant, probably to a fault. Yeah, man. Probably to a fault. Ask Wells Fargo what's happening in that bank account.

42:41I mean, like, yeah. I just, I think it's cool that the New York Times recognizes this changing, swiftly changing ecosystem and has this really robust newsletter every day, basically. Again, subscribe to it. I'm not, this is not paid, obviously. I just think you should be reading this work. Last story, also in the New York Times, but also I would say this is one of the examples of like a more traditional food desk or even I'm not sure which desk this came off of. Ken Webcams Help Solve New York's Restaurant Line Problems by T.M. Brown in The Times. I, you know, Ted, Teddy, I'm not sure his first name, T.M.

43:19I follow him on Substack. I believe he just got a job at CNN. He's really good. Yeah. And I was so happy to see his byline in The Times writing about food. I'm a huge fan of his work and I love this piece. It was kind of a quick and dirty reported piece and it really made a lot of sense. I'll summarize. A software engineer built a website called Damn Lines that streams live webcam feeds of queues outside four popular West Village restaurants, Industry Pizza, Breakfast by Salt's Cure, John's on Bleecker Street, and Salt Hanks. The logistics are kind of interesting. The founder, who kind of stayed slightly anonymous in the piece, has paid people who live across some of these lines to put a webcam in their windows and pays them a small fee or maybe not small.

44:06This idea isn't new. I remember when Shake Shack opened in 2006, I had a job around the corner. This is when they only had one location. I remember we would check the webcam to see what the Shake Shack line was. Now, I think restaurant owners have complicated feelings. I think one of the owners didn't even know it was there. I think some obviously think the line is great marketing. Others don't want to obviously show that they're slow as hell and not make the line move. And some people honestly don't care. And I think Ted, Teddy interviewed a few folks who were in line and had no idea that there would be a line at industry and just like stood in the line.

44:46So what did you think about the piece and in general about waiting on lines? Yeah. So I would be remiss not to mention that we're filming right after this, a segment for the New York Times Instagram account called Luke Hates Lines, where basically we go, literally right after this, where we go to restaurants that don't have a line and just kind of put forward these places where you can still walk up to the counter and someone's going to remember your order if you go two or three times. Which, by the way, there's like 25 ,000 or more restaurants in New York and like 100 of them have a line. Yeah, I know.

45:28It doesn't define the culture of New York. By any means. So I just have to self-promote for a second. Where are you going, by the way? Give us one. You know what? One of them is about fro-yo. Yeah. And I think more people should be spending time on the seventh floor of the Bloomingdales on 59th Street at 40 Carats, where you can get like a massive tub of pretty good tart fro-yo for like eight bucks. Sick. Great call. And let me tell you, being in the West Village yesterday, waiting at some of these like new places you could stand in line for like an hour yeah that's great sorry i cut you off anyway this is such a fun story yeah tm is such a great writer there was so many amazing one-liners i was left on the edge of my seat wondering though i wanted to know more about this person like to live in new york these days you need rich parents or some grift and so i was like of course there's a line And someone's going to be making money on it somehow.

46:25But I wanted to know who these people were who were hosting the cameras, first off. Yeah, yeah. Like, I would love to know the story of how he got in touch with them and, like, set up the cameras and, like, how much they're making. Well, I know the business model is so fascinating. It's fascinating. It kept it very, very vague intentionally. I mean, it's real data science, right? If you go to the website, it's really cool. It has, like, real, like, live data. and like kind of like the current line weight by people and then like the historical data of people in line. Like how long you can expect to wait or how long.

47:02That's so fascinating. It's so fascinating. I mean like line culture I don't think is getting any better. No. We all agree it's cringe when you stand on line or walk by one and we're like, oh man, this is not really like. Like, I'd rather see, like, a pile of rats fighting over a pizza. That's, like, way more New York than a line. But it's just, I don't. Also, when you walk by these lines, it's like a lot of them are people visiting the city. Yeah. You know, this is kind of where maybe tourism happened in Times Square before. Now I think it's happening outside of Lindistry. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Of course, it's all related to what someone sees on social media.

47:43Yeah, and, like, that's the one point about the tourists coming here where they have literally one shot to go. Yeah. And, like, that's why I, like, don't wait in lines. Like, I can't do it. Like, I just really can't. And to your point, there's, like, 25 ,000 other places to go, literally. So I can't wait in lines. Though we waited in line on the industry because we were doing a piece on pizza, so we had to go check it out. But I don't really, like, snark at the lines, the people in line because of the joy. Yeah. And, like, a lot of people, like, it's part of the experience, right? I mean I remember going back in Chicago going to Hot Dugs which was this like burger spot in that famously sold duck fat fries and there's always a line there and I felt like the cult of that line annoyed me but I waited and it was kind of at that time it was fun to wait in that think about lines for duck fat fries I know right instantly places that in time oh my gosh and and like he did he was a genius like the guy was like I'm paying the fines which got like so much press and like at that time in the early 2000s it was like you know an article in the paper got on the news and it was literally the biggest story in Chicago and those lines went from like 25 to 250 overnight different media cycle there but I just look at those people and I'm like that's cool you're having a good time you do you yeah you know I mean the reasons that people dine out are so varied I know right not to like you know I read a study about Gen Z but like you know I think that a lot of people who are younger than me, when I talk to them about the experience of dining, they want the thing they saw online.

49:14They don't mind the experience of waiting. Like you're saying, it's like could turn a single matcha into like an entire afternoon activity. I think there's also this feeling of like I earned this or, you know. Yeah. I don't know. But yeah. But Luke doesn't do lines. Yeah. Luke doesn't do lines. If someone was in the West Village yesterday, they probably saw me in like half a dozen different lines. But like the point of that series is just that like if there's a line, there's always, especially for things like pizza and bagels, there's like always another option that's like maybe unconsidered or under considered right around the corner.

49:51That's a great point. Yeah. We talk about lines all day, but I want to get on with it. So we do this segment on the show. What would you pitch? 1997, Graden Carter. The premise is that in 1997, Vanity Fair had an unlimited budget for freelancers. I was actually just talking to somebody the other day that knew of a friend who got$400K for three articles. I'd love to meet that friend. Yeah, I know. It's a different era, different time, respect to it. But I want to propose this to you. What would you pitch, Graden Carter, in 1997? Man, I was thinking about this last night and this morning on the way here.

50:24I was like, oh, God. I know the answer. I'm a little afraid to say it, to be honest. Okay, so last fall I went to France and did a wine harvest. I really hadn't spent much time in Europe, but I ended up on this farm in Lorraine, helping some friends, picking grapes. And there's this dish that just kept coming up, which is ordelon. You've heard of ordelon? Of course. Yeah, absolutely. you know mythic uh banned food depicted in television yeah i think it was banned in like 1999 yeah um the way that they prepare these creatures which are like these little song burns is is super inhumane you know they round them up like pump them up until they're like softball sized and then drown them in armagnac i think alive i yeah totally absolutely that's true So anyways, but what I learned when I was in France is that there's still Ortolan being captured.

51:25There's still Ortolan being prepared. This is like, you know, French presidents go on the record and like, this is my favorite meal ever. And I hear that Ortolan is being served in New York restaurants too. Very, like the first pages of Anthony Bourdain's Medium Raw are about like an Ortolan feast. Yeah, exactly. Happening discreetly under the napkins and everything. But I want to go hunting for Ortolan, not like actually hunting the animals, but like, I want to go see who is eating this and like what is happening in these like rural French kitchens. I'm so curious about the culture. People take so much pride in it.

52:07It's very generational. It's just like one of those dishes that like as a journalist lights up something in my brain. Yeah. And I'm like, are they going out in the night and capturing songbirds? It sounds like a great heist. Yeah. Anyways, I don't really endorse it, but I do find the culture around it fascinating. Yeah, you're not endorsing. It's just a rich text for journalistic discovery and investigation. And I heard that they're doing it in LA as well. Orlan? I'll talk to you off mic. Yeah, I've heard that it's happening in LA as well. And while the practice of Orlan, of the preparation of it is extremely inhumane, perhaps there's a nuance to this piece, right?

52:47Yeah. And maybe there is a humane way to do it and make it feel the same. You're having the same culinary experience, but not in the traditional methods. Yeah. And like, yeah. Anyways, I don't know. It's just like one. It's one of those dishes that I like. I don't want to like sit here and be like, oh, I'm better than eating an Ortele. because I had foie gras last week and dining in a restaurant generates inhumanities. But I would be curious to taste it. If I was reporting and there was a leftover scrap from some chef, I would be curious. I would love to read that. Yeah. Hey, man. Let's get someone on the phone and make the Ortolan story happen.

53:28That's why I asked this question. It's a great idea. This episode is brought to you by Wayfair. I talk to chefs and restaurateurs tours for a living, people who are obsessive about every detail of a space. That thinking doesn't stop at the restaurant door, and I'm always looking for ways I can upgrade my kitchen, dining room, and really all the aesthetics in my home. And Wayday at Wayfair is the moment I've been waiting for to make that happen. From April 25th through the 27th, you can score up to 80 % off with fast and free shipping on everything. Furniture, outdoor, decor, home improvement, all of it.

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56:10Well, let's wrap up with the taste check on This Is Taste. We ask guests about the discerning taste. So to close this interview, here's a rapid-fire Fast & Furious Taste Check Media Edition. Luke, are you ready? I'm ready. I think. What is the first thing you read in the morning and where do you read it? Oh, God. Email, hate messages, toilet. It's, yeah, very quickly just scrolling through. Horrible copy I wrote the night before at the bar. Yeah, yeah. So you're editing within notes? I will never show my notes app on camera. I know. But you will see all of the newsletters in my notes. Some form of them.

56:46Yeah. You? You ever write in there? I write in notes mostly in bullets. Okay. I do like a little bulleting. And then I write typically traditional. I'm touching the keyboard. Okay. Real quick. You might relate to this as a writer. But like for me, sometimes the format starts to stifle me. So I used to do Google Docs. And then I was like, I can't do this anymore. No, no, no. Notes has started to not be enough. Now I am writing in text messages to myself. Yep. That's really good to have done that. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Sometimes I just got to shake it up. I think Helen Rosner shared with me that she did a lot of her writing in Gmail.

57:21Yeah. Like draft of an email. That's a great place to write. Great place to write. I've done that as well. It's a great place to knock out a thousand words. Just like write your draft in Gmail. Yeah. In that box. What do you read on actual paper, if anything? Oh, I have books usually. I mean, like I don't read much media in print outside of maybe like a zine. Yeah. or a magazine, but like, yeah, mostly it's books these days. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Mostly it's books. I have, I'm like really showing all my cards, but I have Medium Raw and Garlic and Sapphires by Ruth Reichel on my bedside table. My God.

57:59A friend saw this yesterday and was like, dude, that is so bad. It's like a man's bed without a top sheet, you know? It's like, it's so bad. I mean, I think, I mean, Garlic and Sapphires is a must read. It's so good. So good. It's outstanding. Come on, read it. It's great. Your favorite food publication growing up? Oh, man. My upbringing is so boring. I didn't really read food media. It's all good, man. I didn't really like – I don't have one of these like food writer backgrounds where it was like, man, I woke up and read the review in the L.A. Times. My mom had a gourmet subscription since I was two.

58:35I was a late bloomer. Yeah. Fair. I mean, listen. Feel free to clip that. Clip it. Yeah, clip it up. Clip it up. You mean like edit or put it on the internet? Put it on the internet. Yeah, Luke Cornillo is a late bloomer. Yeah, no, I think it's actually the more common response when we talk on the show. A lot of folks have been honest, like come to food media in different ways and maybe it wasn't part of their tradition. Do you have a relationship with PBS food or food programming? You know, okay, so PBS, no. But like I was thinking about this question and maybe it's a little generational. I don't know.

59:07Yeah, yeah. But the first sort of like food television I consumed was Alton Brown on the Food Network. in a home ec class. And I remember like, he taught me how to crack an egg, you know, on the surface rather than on the rim of the bowl. I just remember that blowing my mind. I remember, yeah, anyways, shout out Elton Brown, I guess. Yeah, yeah. Unless he's done something bad since then that I don't know about, but. I think he's okay. Okay, okay. He's an okay guy. All right, thank you, Mr. Brown. Yeah, Mr. Brown's a good guy. Let's talk about YouTube TikTok. Where are you at right now with these two specific platforms?

59:42I use YouTube only on my television. Oh, wow. You know? You're one of those guys. I'm one of those guys, yeah. I mean, apparently that's what everyone does now. Really? It's like a streaming service, basically. And I watch, like, the most... It's awful because now it shows your recommended YouTube algorithm when you open your smart TV. Oh, yeah. And for me, it's, like, all video game stuff. Like, video game playthroughs of shit that's, like, 20 years old. Oh, 20 years old. It's, like, World of Warcraft playthroughs. And I used to play a lot of World of Warcraft when I was a kid. But I, yeah, anyways, I have to be very quick about like toggling over to Netflix.

1:00:21TikTok though, I use every day. The new ownership of the platform is really unfortunate. I definitely have been spending more time on Instagram reels because of that. But like as an idea, scrolling all the time. A lot of inspiration for the newsletter comes from something I see in like a 30 second reel. Yeah. Because your algorithm is really tuned to what you're looking for, which is, you know, New York City, hidden secrets. And World of Warcraft. And it just knows. It knows me better than my own mom. You know, it's like, it's really tuned in. So, yeah, I get a lot of like affordable dining, Queens, Bronx coverage, which is awesome.

1:01:00I learn about places I never. Hidden gems culture. Yes. Have you written about hidden gems? I wrote a newsletter about like restaurants hiding in plain sight, restaurants and grocery stores and punk rock venues. Yeah, yeah. I guess I tried to avoid the word hidden gem. I think I actually did. I think I'm tapping into not the content because obviously we report on hidden gems, but just the idea of the hidden gems voiceover. Like, you know, let me show you a hidden gem. It's a sushi bar in a CVS. It's Lindistry. Yeah, I just think that is such an interesting kind of genre of YouTube and TikTok. The influencers have really figured out the hook.

1:01:39Like almost better than most journalists have figured out the headline. Yeah, fair. Like, yeah. Last one. Where do you want to be in five years with your career? I hope I'm sitting right here talking with you. Running around still eating pizza. The colonoscopy results have come back positive. Yeah. I hope I'm in good health. Yeah. Like, I hope I'm in good health. I'm still writing about food. and that this industry is still alive in a way that we can be sitting here talking about it. I like that. I hope you get to, well, I know I'll see you in five years in this seat in wherever form, wherever you may be.

1:02:10And you have a real passion and skill. Luke, such a wonderful conversation. Thank you so much for joining us, Is Taste. Thank you for having me. So much fun.

1:02:23This Is Taste is hosted and produced by Eliza Abarbanal and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is edited by lead producer Clayton Gumbert and supervised by Pat Stango, director of media production and development at Penguin Random House. Thanks to Shalia Harris and the production team at Penguin Random House. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Episode portraits by Louise Zergon Pomeroy. Logo design by Ellie Skirzat and Ian Dingham. Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com And make sure to subscribe to our newsletter to keep updated on all cool things in the world of taste.

From the publisher

It’s the return of Food Writers Talking About Food Writing. Every couple of weeks, Matt invites a journalist to talk about some favorite recent food writing as well as their thoughts on the industry as a whole.

Luke Fortney went from covering New York's restaurant scene at Eater — where he won a New York Press Club Award for a piece on flour tortillas — to contributing weekly to the terrific New York Times food newsletter, Where to Eat. On this episode we talk about pizza, schedules, and why some of the best food writing right now lives inside a 600-word newsletter. We also talk about some recent food writing that we enjoyed.

Discussed on the episode: 

The $8 Can of Vegetables [Best Food Blog]

U Went Viral for the Wrong Reasons Honey [NY Mag]

At Restaurants, Fusion Is No Longer a Dirty Word [NYT]

Can Webcams Help Solve New York’s Restaurant Line Problem? [NYT]

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

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