In short
Food media and restaurant recommendation culture, plus several New York restaurant openings and food-writing trends.
Guest
Nadia Chaudhury, deputy editor at Eater Northeast. Grew up in New York; studied writing; started in high school yearbook journalism; worked as photo editor for Biz Bash. Moved to Austin after marriage, joined Eater Austin, then returned to New York (back since last April). Also grew up around Calustians, a family-run NYC specialty food store.
Key claims
Recommendation systems can “cockblock” serendipity; “vibes coding” restaurant apps are “lamest shit ever” versus reading editorial and journalists’ work. Food writing is best when it’s contextual, personal, and intersects pop culture with dining.
Notable examples
Harry Styles “Austin guide” service/concert recommendations; Calustians (mujadara, gigantes/large butter beans); Blue Bottle’s “Kyoto style” cold-extracted espresso; planned Carbone team “American tavern” in Tribeca Grill space; Ali Francis’s serendipity-engineering argument; Sono (70% Korean/30% Italian) in the East Village.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOExploring Food Stories
2:27 to 3:40
Matt and Nadia share recent dining experiences and favorite restaurants.
“We haven't done it in a few weeks, a few months even.”
The Evolution of Blue Bottle Coffee
3:40 to 6:07
Nadia shares her thoughts on Blue Bottle's new Kyoto-style coffee.
“And it was like the day the weather was perfect.”
Nadia's Journey into Food Writing
6:07 to 10:40
Nadia discusses her background and path to becoming a food writer.
“And it's just cool to see a company of that size really, like, rethink their full program and do, like, a new kind of style of coffee.”
Family Ties to Kalustyan's
10:40 to 14:00
Nadia talks about her family's connection to the famous Kalustyan's store.
“It's new but also not new because I would visit often.”
Family Connections at Calustis
14:00 to 14:27
An anecdote about family ties and connections at a store.
“Yeah, he's like running Calustis with your uncle.”
Exploring Colorado's Culinary Scene
15:21 to 15:49
Discussion about a previous episode focused on Colorado's food destinations.
“On a recent episode of This Is Taste, we visited Colorado, a state that has quietly, and then not so quietly, been building one of the most exciting culinary scenes in America.”
Nadia's Passion for Food Writing
15:49 to 16:51
Nadia discusses her love for reporting on chefs and their restaurant journeys.
“What are some stories that you really enjoy reporting on or do you have a favorite genre or style to work around?”
The Eater's Concert Guide
16:51 to 18:04
Nadia shares her experience creating a concert guide for food around events.
“So I kind of invented, especially service guides.”
Current State of Eater
18:04 to 19:05
Discussion about Eater's current operations and changes in the media landscape.
“So, and I'm not expecting you to speak on any of those terms, but like what's Eater like these days working there?”
New Food Writing Trends
19:05 to 19:28
Exploration of new trends in food writing and media consumption.
“It's super important in media right now to meet the audience where they're at, be it social video, be it podcast, be it an app.”
Show all 22 chapters
Tribeca Grill's New Tavern
19:28 to 23:28
Discussion on the new American tavern opening in the historic Tribeca Grill space.
“First story, the Carbone team will open an American tavern in the Tribeca Grill space by yourself with an assist from Beth Landman.”
The Role of Serendipity in Dining
23:28 to 28:00
A conversation about the importance of spontaneous dining experiences versus algorithmic recommendations.
“Second story, The Whimsy Killer in Your Pocket by Ali Francis in Best Food Blog.”
Embracing Serendipity in Dining
28:00 to 29:15
Explore the joy of spontaneous dining experiences over meticulous planning.
“It's like it's like a little contradictory to what we recommend, which is like reading editorial and having lists and like.”
The McNally Restaurant Profile
29:15 to 31:32
Learn about George McNally's upcoming restaurant and its unique challenges.
“And also you just like you just get to maybe meet like people who aren't like embedded in like food, the food chef world.”
Anticipating Andy Bergani's New Spot
31:32 to 33:19
Discuss the buzz around Andy Bergani's new restaurant, Ditto, and its expected vibe.
“I'm curious to see if George's restaurant will have, I mean, and I know he'll strive for that, you know?”
Korean-Italian Culinary Fusion
33:19 to 34:27
Unpack the unique blend of Korean and Italian cuisine at Sono, a new restaurant.
“That was a little breaking news in some ways.”
Chef's Passion for Culinary Identity
34:27 to 36:00
Discover how a chef's background influences their culinary creations and menu design.
“especially now like again the East Asian the Tokyo coming into New York kind of thing Tokyo the pizzeria you're talking about the pizzeria the studio Tamaki did I say that right?”
The Evolution of Korean Cuisine
36:00 to 39:38
Examine the current momentum and evolution of Korean chefs in the culinary scene.
“It's like pretty traditional like trottoria style cooking.”
Exploring Indo-Chinese Culinary Heritage
39:38 to 42:00
Dive into the rich history and cultural significance of Indo-Chinese cuisine.
“that's actually a really beautiful way of putting it, honestly.”
Exploring New Texan Cuisine
42:00 to 44:40
Discover the evolving landscape of Texan food influenced by diverse cultures.
“And I feel like there's a wave of new New Texan that I would love, love to dig into.”
Rapid Fire Taste Check
47:19 to 50:26
Engage in a fast-paced discussion about media consumption and food publications.
“She has a little rapid fire, fast and furious taste check.”
Future Aspirations in Media
50:27 to 54:17
Discuss ambitions for a media career focusing on in-depth storytelling.
“Eater is still very vibrant with covering news and go to the website, go to the app because it's so true.”
Transcript
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1:05When Harry Styles did his residency, I forget when, for not this album, but the album before, he was doing a six-night residency in Austin. So on a whim, I'm like, I'm going to do the big Harry Styles guide to Austin. Yeah. And I did this entire guide of where to eat when you're waiting for GEA tickets, where to eat before the show, where to eat after show, where to eat at the show. This is Taste. I'm your host, Matt Rodbard.
1:58the legendary New York City specialty food store that has been feeding chefs, cooks, and curious eaters since 1944. On this episode, Nadia and I discuss the state of food media. Man, everything is going so well. We also talk about the story she's chasing an eater and what it's like to grow up with one of New York City's most essential food institutions in the family. I hope you enjoy this episode.
2:26We are back with Food Writers Talking About Food Writing. I love this episode. We haven't done it in a few weeks, a few months even. Nadia Chowdhury, it's so great to have you in the studio. Thank you so much, Matt. I'm so excited to be here. This is a long time coming. I've been a fan of your work from afar. First time we're meeting, I believe. It is, yes. Yeah, so nice to meet you. As we always do on the show, we're going to talk about some favorite stories that have popped up in the past few weeks. But before we get to that, I always like to ask, share a meal, a restaurant visit, something in the food world that has excited you.
3:00And I'll share my. So last week I had a good friend of mine from Austin visiting and she wanted to go out to a restaurant together. I know she loves Italian food. I know she loves pasta. So I was going through my very, very, very, very, very long list of New York restaurants that I still need to go to because that list is massive. Yeah. And I stumbled I was looking at it and I saw noodle pudding and I was like, wait, I've been wanting to go there for a really long time. I think she'd be the perfect person to go there with. We went. It was fantastic. It was like the most ideal, pleasant, charming New York City, Italian, Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn waterfront.
3:43And it was like the day the weather was perfect. So they had the windows open and it was just so breezy. I love it. I used to live near there. It's up in Brooklyn Heights. I mean, it's like not trying to be cool. No. And I love just like it's there was. Oh, my gosh. They did this twice. There were two birthdays, but I was in the bathroom for one of them. But I could hear them singing. And for the second birthday, they have this little like this very big like little tiny little like light up ball on the ceiling that they like flash with like like club lights basically. and saying happy birthday to someone.
4:15And it was like that kind of vibes, you know? And the food was just so impeccable. The pastas were like, mwah. I got the bucatini with the zucchini and the egg. And just like the combination of like the zucchini with the yolkiness of that. And my friend got, she got one of the pastas with red sauce, red tomato sauce, because that's like what she really wanted. But we also wanted to get like the chili peppers. And so they gave us like their house chili peppers. The Calabrian style? Yeah. And this makes me so happy to be back in New York. Things are actually spicy, legit spicy. And those pepper, I should have bought it, honestly.
4:52They were so perfect. Love it. It's great. I haven't been there in a minute, so great reminder. My visit is I stopped by Blue Bottle yesterday. So Blue Bottle, fun fact, they have like 180 plus cafes in the country. It's a big operation now. I remember going back to like the early 2000s when James Freeman had started in San Francisco at the market. It was like such a cute little startup, essentially. And wow, here we are today. They're launching a full, I call it like a semi-reboot of the way they're doing cold espresso. So famously, James was like not a fan of lattes. And in his very building cafe, he would never serve lattes.
5:31He wanted, you know, espresso and like lots of pour overs and coffee. So they've always had this interesting relationship with espresso-based drinks. But what they're doing now is they're calling it Kyoto style. It's a big air quotes there. It's inspired by the traditions of cold coffee in Japan. And it's really a cold-extracted espresso. And it's an interesting way to do espresso. So possibly not using the machines as much and having their own style of cold extraction. And the drinks have been delicious. I tried a few. I had an espresso tonic. I had a latte with a nice syrup in it. And it's just cool to see a company of that size really, like, rethink their full program and do, like, a new kind of style of coffee.
6:18They're calling it Kyoto style. Interesting. Check it out. Yeah. Do you like Blue Bottle? Are you into it? I, like, I remember when Blue Bottle being in New York was, like, such a big deal. I know. Like, that's what I remember, you know? And like seeking it out like when I was like out and about in the city as like a college kid or like a young adult. Like that's – and I don't think I've had it in a while actually. The NOLA style is elite. That's the go-to, right? Yeah, totally elite. And that's like their own style. It's like – I mean it's from New Orleans obviously. It has a long tradition. But they brought it to the national scale.
6:49So I'm a big fan of Blue Bottle. Okay, before we get to our food writing, we have some stories to discuss. I want to talk about you. Tell me like how did you get into this world of food writing? Okay, so my TLDR. Grew up in New York, born and raised in New York. I went to Bronx Science for high school, even though I really didn't want to because of the science aspect of it. Wait, you just like were fighting science? You wanted to be more an artsy kid? Basically, honestly. Like I wanted to go to Townsend Harris. Yeah. But I did not get accepted into Townsend Harris because it is a very competitive school.
7:21Wow. Which is hilarious, actually, because my sister, who is now an MD-PhD, she went to Townsend Harris, which is famously a humanities school. Okay, so it did. Like, it worked out. Yeah, it worked out. Yeah. It worked out, worked out. Cool. So you're, like, going to the science, you're in, like, a science school, STEM school. And then, but, like, I found my way into writing. I've always been a reader. So, like, writing came naturally to me. I joined my high school yearbook. Yeah. That was the beginning of my journalism career. High school yearbook for my three years in high, or the sophomore, junior, senior, worked my way up to becoming a managing editor, writer.
7:58layout designer, all that fun stuff. We were the nerds in the yearbook office. Love yearbook. 8pm, getting pizza parties, all that fun stuff. So many great journalists come out of high school yearbook. Honestly, it was fun. And so then I went to Eugene Lane College for college where I studied writing. I realized I was not going to be a fiction writer because I took my first class. I was like, oh my gosh, I can't. I don't have that much imagination. Honestly, and on a whim, I joined the college newspaper and that's like you know so journalism has been my blood i went to like all of that um and so my winding way of how i ended up at eater is that um my husband and i got married um after dating for a while and then we were like oh we're young we're living in brooklyn brooklyn is very expensive let's go live somewhere else for like a little bit why not so we decided on Austin, Texas of all places his father lives in Houston it had good weather compared to New York it was more affordable we were both music, pop culture-y people so like Austin made sense, live music scene all of that fun stuff I kept my job at the time, I was a photo editor of an event trade publication called Biz Bash I remember Biz Bash I was the photo editor that's a lot of conference room conference situations but also like i could talk for hours uh the most random like not like cool i went to moma's party in the garden several times like i've met michelle williams like i it the events i went to like wow these guys were cool yeah it was i and i miss it and like i still have that brain too with that um so as photo i cut my job when i'm we moved to austin i met the done editor of eater austin And Megan McCarron at a party, at a Zagat party of all places, actually, started talking.
9:53I started writing for her. I became her associate editor. She moved to L.A. and got a job at Eater.com. And then I became the editor of Eater Austin. And so you started at a local site and then you've since grown. And now you're editor of Eater Northeast. I'm a deputy editor at Eater Northeast because coming back home to New York was actually always the goal for us. Austin was never supposed to be a forever thing because my family's still here. I got my niece in Connecticut. New York is where I feel most even though I miss Austin dearly. I'm a New Yorker. Yeah, so you had to come back. When did you move back?
10:31Over a year ago. Last April. Oh my goodness, so you're kind of recently back. Recently back, which is weird. It's an adjustment. It still feels new to you. It's new but also not new because I would visit often. Yeah. So I'm sure like a lot of people feel that way when they go back home to their place. But then it's also you have that. But then it's also the New York of it all, which is also weird and interesting. Like, yeah, I don't know. Like I used to work two streets away. The Municipal Art Society used to be there and I was like a communications associate there, which is like so funny. We're here back in Midtown.
11:04OK, so but like we buried the lead, actually, which is just wild. and I didn't know this like I like wrote something on Subsec and you mentioned this like in the comments like yeah my uncle and my dad my dad run Colustians like what the fuck like I had no idea legendary place we've talked about a lot on the show Colustians is in your family what is that like? It's cool it's like it's just it's funny like so my all-am uncle my z's uncle own Colustians my all-am uncle and z's uncle not blood relatives but this is the way it is you know growing up like they were there like my alam uncle was one of the witnesses at my nikah my muslim wedding ceremony family friend for years and years and my dad has been a manager there for a really long time and it's just funny because like growing like i i've had more of like understanding of it like probably in high high school or college i forget when um that like oh like this is a place like other people go to like uh my dad like he they were on martha stewart like uh they've like had an entire episode of martha stewart because martha goes there often or like my dad was like the jimmy fallon goes there all the time or like yeah um there was once recently recently a couple years ago where like chrissy tegan posted something on um instagram Yeah, we all go there.
12:28My sister and I were asking my dad about it. And my dad's like, I don't know famous people. I don't know. But I mean, it's just like, so I remember, obviously, the store has changed a lot. I remember when there was, in high school, we used to hang up at the deli upstairs. Upstairs. That was like, I would bring my friends there all the time because they would know my dad and all that stuff. And we would just hang up there, eat food. Dude, the Mujidara, that has been my, I miss that so deeply. that like that sandwich, early 2000s when I worked around the corner, I used to go up there and have like a sandwich every week.
13:02It's that. And you sit in the window and just hang up there. That and like the, I forget what they were called, but the big beans, the big butter beans. Gigantes? Yes. Those were like some of my favorites, honestly. Such a good spot. I mean, so were you thinking about food early by like having this connection to Colustians? I mean, it's always like, it's interesting the way, like I always think of food writing, it's just not just but it's journalism with a food lens and it's something like i happened upon honestly because like i've always been a culture writer at the very least like i've done profiles i've written about the city um all that fun stuff like and just like food writing is just like look a way of looking at the world yeah through food which is something like we all do like i love eating i love cooking yeah um i love thinking about like recipes or like ingredients or like like niche ingredients and things like that.
13:51And it's sort of like, it's interesting the way like the world works is like now that I write about food and my dad is like, he is very involved in food. Yeah, he's like running Calustis with your uncle. All the descriptions, he writes them. Your dad? Yeah. I mean, I was just there a couple days ago. But you saw my dad. I did not know that. It was your dad at the time. He sits in the middle of the store. He has his big like court. Oh, yeah. I know exactly who your dad is. Say hi to Najmal. Yeah, it's an incredible store just to understate it. It's like there's so much cool stuff there we could talk about all day.
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15:02Real confidence, no matter your budget. There's outdoor seating, lighting, rugs, storage. It's all there. Get prepped for patio season for way less. Head to Wayfair.com now to shop all things home. That's W-A-Y-F-A-I-R dot com. Wayfair. Every style, every home. On a recent episode of This Is Taste, we visited Colorado, a state that has quietly, and then not so quietly, been building one of the most exciting culinary scenes in America. From Denver's Michelin-starred restaurant boom, to the peach orchards and wine country of the Grand Valley, we visited to find out why Colorado is a serious food destination, and came back convinced.
15:43Check out Taste Travels Colorado, episode 786 on the This Is Taste feed. Let's get back to your eater work. What are some stories that you really enjoy reporting on or do you have a favorite genre or style to work around? Yeah, I do really love writing opening, coming attraction features on chefs that are opening brand new restaurants or digging into the whys and what they're excited about and all of that. And it's just like a way of getting to learn someone and their journey and depicting that in a way that is authentic to themselves and just understandable. Because I could talk for hours, but another person's like, I don't care about this.
16:29But making that sound interesting, not to say chefs aren't interesting. They can be, they can not be. And adding context and just like, it's that weaving that beautiful tapestry. This is sort of my niche specialty. I really like the intersection of pop culture and food. So I'm really good at that, and I have a lot of fun with that. So I kind of invented, especially service guides. So I invented our Eater's Concert Guide series. Oh, cool. So when Harry Styles did his residency, I forget when, for not this album but the album before, he was doing a six night residency in Austin. So on a whim, I'm like, oh, I remember, I remember exactly how I felt that day.
17:13I was like, and I was like, okay, cause you know, people are traveling from across the world to come to these shows. I'm like, all right, I'm going to do the big Harry Styles guide to Austin. And I did this entire guide of like where to eat when you're waiting for GA tickets, where to eat before the show, where to eat after show, where to eat at the show, where to explore Austin. And it was just so much fun and it did so well. And it's, it's, it's, I don't know. It's like fun, like thinking of different like food writing isn't just about food. Like, it's again, it touches so many things. It's a societal impact of food.
17:44I mean, there's obviously so many connections to food. I mean, every podcast talks about food these days. It doesn't have to be a food podcast. So how's it going to Eater? You know, news recently that there was there's talks of a separation of some of the units, you know, like the Vox Media Podcast Network and New York Magazine are going one way and Eater is going another way. It's not officially closed. So, and I'm not expecting you to speak on any of those terms, but like what's Eater like these days working there? We are doing our thing. Eater is still being Eater is honestly what I'll say.
18:16We are, you know, publishing on our website. We have an app where please download it. Like we're doing a lot of cool stuff on the apps with our lists and recommendations and like really handy when you're like going to a new city and you just open up like, hey, what did Eater write about here that maybe I can go to? We have our app. We're doing a lot of fun stuff on newsletters actually now too. So please subscribe to our newsletters. All of our Intel roundups are there. Like that's a good thing. Like a little fun tidbits. And like best dishes and like dining. We're doing dining reports where we're like sort of like mini capsule reviews of like restaurants that we're going to.
18:53And those go into the app. And they do feed into the app. Yes. Thank you for saying that. The way everyone is understanding information or reading information is different. So we're just trying to meet everyone. wherever they're at. I like it. I like the move. It's super important in media right now to meet the audience where they're at, be it social video, be it podcast, be it an app. We're doing a lot of social videos too, which is a lot of fun actually. I've been doing a lot of really fun celebrity let's do lunch videos. Oh, fun. So that's been cool. Yeah, it's good. I mean, it's definitely where you need to be.
19:23So wishing you all to eat the best. Thank you very much. From here at Taysen and your friends here. Well, let's talk about some food writing. Yeah. First story, the Carbone team will open an American tavern in the Tribeca Grill space by yourself with an assist from Beth Landman. A little summary. This is one of Tribeca's, I would say, most historical storied locations. You know, the Tribeca Grill is obviously what it is. We had Drew Nieper on recently to talk about it. And it's for me, it's cool to see that there's now official word that major food group is taking it over. And really this is from the group, you know, from Rich Teresi, Mario Carbone, and Jeff Zlasnik.
20:05I think a key point in the story is that Robert De Niro still owns the building. Yes, which is fascinating, actually. Fascinating. Bobby D is going to be involved in some way. American Bistro, Tavern Style, I will hand it over to you when you're reporting this piece with Beth. What did you learn about this? And what do you think about the prospects of this succeeding down in Tribeca? It's interesting also because I know, what was it, Grub Street wrote recently about how everything's a tavern. I know. Now, there is a benefit of me coming back to New York with fresh eyes because I've never been to Tribeca Grill because I was a young adult and had no money, right?
20:41Yeah, it was a different era. A different time. Yeah, yeah. But it's interesting. I mean, I'll be curious to see how it works out. I wonder how if De Niro will. I assume he will go there because I feel like that's become such a home base for him still because it's also its affiliation with the Tribeca Film Festival and all that fun stuff. I trust them to do something good. I hope it's interesting. Yeah. On the menu, you mean? Yeah. I wanted to. And I know. Oh, gosh, I'm not going to remember. I added this after the fact in an update. Like I know he's playing with like a veal chop something or other, which could be like I want to see what those like influences are like because on paper a tavern sounds, I'm so sorry, boring.
21:24Yeah. But I want it to be cool. I want it to be interesting or surprising. It seems like from their history, be it, you know, the grill to Carbone to Teresi to San Sabino even like there's always like a very strong idea of a place and concept. So I wouldn't imagine a major food group tavern being boring. Yeah. I would think the vibe would be like obviously like fall into the holidays. It's like going to be like very busy and hardcore New Yorkers in the summertime. It's going to be all tourists. And in certain periods, it may be not that busy. But like it's going to be a major food group restaurant.
21:59So it'll be likely very busy. It'll be a hard table to get into. It'll be for a while, especially in the fall. I mean, down there is an interesting neighborhood that's happening. Tribeca is so different now too. My goodness. Yeah, and the Hudson Square just north of there. Yeah. Daniel Hum's restaurant. How do you feel about him calling it Hum? How do you feel about that? It's funny to me. It's really funny. It's funny to me? I think like - And it's a power move, I think, honestly. It's a super power move. I feel like you need, like, he like looked at Daniel and was like, I need to do what Daniel did.
22:29I'm looking at John George. I need to do what John George did. That's my read of why it's called Hum. I kind of like that. And I agree with that. No, it's a mission statement. It's going to be interesting. That's a restaurant to watch. We're not even doing that. that episode right now. I'm looking forward to this opening. I love talking to Rich. He's been on the show a bunch of times. I haven't talked to Mario on the record yet. So maybe we'll get one of them to talk about this restaurant. And that would be a great for y 'all. Yeah, yeah, they're great. I enjoy their company on microphone. They're interested.
22:54And I know like they have such appeal too and they like they are hit makers, right? So I do trust that like it's going to be impeccable. So and it's good. It's nice that like a legacy space like that is still remaining a restaurant and not being torn down. A hundred percent. Or like being a boring furniture store or some nonsense like that, right? So there's that at the very least. Oh my gosh. If it was like another like Bond Street Pets something, the other or Tribeca Pediatrics, no shade to either of those brands. Like that would have been a shame. It's like this is a restaurant space and that is the heritage and I'm glad.
23:27Great point, Nadia, I like that. Second story, The Whimsy Killer in Your Pocket by Ali Francis in Best Food Blog. Best Newsletter to me. I love what they're doing. Great food publication in this new world of food publications we live in. Yeah, lots of food publications. Lots of my inboxes is bursting, and I always open Best Food Blog. I'm a huge fan. And let me summarize this a bit. Allie went to Dallas to visit her in-laws and had a meal. She went to a place. It was like a Tex-Mex spot. No reservations. No Instagram consult. She just found this place. and has a pretty good meal. Allie makes a great argument, though, and I love this line.
24:10Recommendation systems cockblock us from accessing the key ingredient to a memorable experience, what researchers call serendipity, unintentionally encountering something that feels fortuitous, refreshing, and enriching. So she finds this restaurant by serendipity, and she's having a great time, but she comes to her realization, there's a bit of a twist, that these serendipitous moments are now being engineered by the platforms themselves. And they're basically saying in this small walled world that you can find serendipity but within our guardrails. Super interesting topic. I think she did a great job of unpacking this in this pretty short story.
24:50The salmon tacos at this restaurant were very good. She was quite pleased. But what do you think about this optimization of finding serendipitous moments it makes me sad and i know like i'm also like probably part of the system as well with our inner maps and all that fun stuff but like i think there is a difference between like and i feel like this is the way we're going now people are asking chat gpt or claude or whatever the ai thing is now like where to eat versus talking to real people yeah like and that's disappointing and sad because like if i'm going to a new place like i do put out like calls on my like socials like hey because i like hey are there places that like i should go to because you never like you you've it's that person-to-person connection i want to know what a real person thinks versus like what a computer is like stealing from the internet and like turning it into like slop or whatever or like a generic like if i'm coming to new york are you really just going to recommend like i don't even know like corner bistro corner bistro no shade to corner bistro but like there's like so many more interesting yeah or like if i'm like especially if you're like coming from like i don't know like if i was taking my cousin out from bangladesh like i'm not gonna necessarily you know yeah i'd rather there's there is something to be said about when you're looking and i'd be interested to know like how do you like how and i but also like are we too ingrained in the food media world where like we know how to ask for recommendations Is that an art?
26:22Is that something we should figure out how to teach people now? It's definitely smart to recognize our, like, inherent bias. Like, we have our own way of finding places to eat, and it's definitely assisted by, you know, our friends, our DMs, obviously PR. I do think, to your point about AI, there is, like, nothing worse than the idea of somebody vibes coding a restaurant recommendation app for their own personal gain and, like, thinking that's cool. That is the lamest shit ever. Like, read editorial. Like, read, like, Resi editorial, Eater editorial, New York Magazine. I can name more. Read the blogs.
27:03I mean, it's, like, just, like, read. Like, the journalists are there doing the work. You don't need, like, a vibes-coded, like, funnel of, like, nonsense to get you to that meal. And if that's what you're looking for, then you don't care about the food. Agreed. Like, that's what I would say to them. It's not really about the food. It's about having like a list of like 27 dots on a map. Yo, man, I went there. I just like really am really – Speaking the truth. Scouraged about that part of a restaurant-rack culture. And the idea of serendipity is interesting. I do think – and Robert Seitzema, if you read his work or know him, the man lives a life of serendipity.
Read the full transcript
27:46The man walks around the city and bikes around the city finding places. There are definitely experiences that are not good. but like we're just walking around and like checking out a place there's like something very heartening about just going to a random anonymous place it's like that happenstance and that wonder of happenstance we went to my husband and i were in salt lake city recently for a music festival and this is this is what i do this is how i get out of the like over planning things i have he picks where we're gonna go yeah uh which is nice and we ended up at like we ordered tacos from one place uh taquera familiar and the tacos were great yeah and then we went to like a supermarket uh like i think it's like a salt lake city or utah chain or rancho marco market um and we had awesome tacos and it's not it wasn't those these places were not on my radar on my personal radar you know and i loved that and like we had such great meals yeah and there is something to be said about i and this is a good reminder of me like i have to be better about that Just like wandering and like deciding instead of planning ahead of like where I'm going to go.
28:51Just do it. Just find it. Like let it happen. I know. It's like it's like a little contradictory to what we recommend, which is like reading editorial and having lists and like. But like there is something very cool about just popping in and checking something that's new that looks promising. You don't want to waste time and money, though. That's that's like the paradigm. And that's the thing. But then sometimes it happens. Sometimes happens. Sometimes it happens. We just have to agree that it will happen if you're going on these serendipity vibes. And also you just like you just get to maybe meet like people who aren't like embedded in like food, the food chef world.
29:22Yeah. We're like operating these places who are just like doing their job and having a lot of pride and doing interesting food. Exactly. Next story. Kind of the opposite end of the spectrum, to be honest. Faux is a real McNally restaurant by Joshua David Stein. And that is in New York Magazine. It's a profile of George McNally, son of Keith, veteran of Balthazar's Bar Program. He's doing shifts every couple of weeks. Interesting nugget from there. And self-described sufferer of imposter syndrome. Appreciate the candid nature of that. And opening this restaurant, which will be kind of launching and try back in the summertime.
29:58The name is partially a typographic preference. George likes X's and V's. And by his own admission, it's a restaurant that has a long shadow. I'm interested in Joshua's profile here. Because I think he definitely got some great lines about the raise. It was a$1.5 million raise. And George is very honest about basically bothering a bunch of people to get the funds. But he notes that Keith is not really behind it. It's on his own, which I respect. The menu feels kind of like deliberately crowd-pleasing. There's steak frites. There's mussels. There's halibut, a burger with a special sauce. Kind of Mediterranean, to be honest.
30:43I like this profile. I like the brevity of it. I think Joshua can write long. He's written for us and he's a really terrific wordsman. But I like the way this was very concise. And I want to know George a little bit more. Maybe he'll come on the show when this opens. What do you think about a McNally opening a restaurant who is not Keith? It's interesting. I mean, it's that like there is a bit of like people are going to go to the restaurant because it's a McNally. And like we know this, right? Like no matter what. Um, it, it, it'll be interesting to see how it differentiates itself from McNally's seniors, uh, empire.
31:22It's interesting. I've never had an experience with the McNally restaurant until like coming back to New York and went to Balthazar and I was like, oh, okay, I get why people are into this. Like, is, you know, like very comforting, very hospitality driven. I'm curious to see if George's restaurant will have, I mean, and I know he'll strive for that, you know? I mean and you have the McNally name behind you yeah it's good you know like there's something inherently like and I understand that he's doing this on his own but inherently it's yeah it's going to be interesting to see how the critics respond I think we have very good critics we're at a really great moment right now with New York City restaurant critics I believe he will be given a fair shot but I think there's going to be some extra attention given to this place definitely will because as much as you don't want to make the comparison the comparison is going to be there it's unfortunate for him but it's his name not in the story but Andy Bergani's new restaurant I'm very curious about that I'm very very very curious I really enjoy his cookbook he shops at Calustion's often too I'm pretty sure there's a photo of him in the cookbook I'm very very curious about that good location interesting name Yeah, great.
32:40Ditto? Ditto is a cool name. I really like the name. I like that it's casual, no reservations for the jump. But you know there's going to be a line. You know there's going to be some kind of buzz around it. But, like, you know what? They've thought about it for a while. And I think that the style of service and the flow is something that obviously we have top of mind. Yeah. I'm feeling, and Andy told me about this a while ago, but I haven't talked to him in a minute. So this is just, like, my interpretation. I think there will be a grab-and-go component. It's got it for that neighborhood, too.
33:07And the way it is, because you have so many offices, you have all the colleges, you have people hanging out at the park, honestly. 100%. Going home after work for a quick dinner, hopefully keeping that price point in a place that can be manageable for all New Yorkers. I can't wait. I'm excited. I'm excited. That was a little breaking news in some ways. All right, last story is a good one. new East Village restaurant threads Korean and Italian culinary lines. You wrote this for Eater. It's from the chef Suchil Yang. And he describes the food as 70 % Korean and 30 % Italian. A restaurant's called Sono.
33:48Opened on May 16th. I have not been. I've been to a bunch of new spots. To be fair, I haven't yet. I have, again, a very, very long backlist and I've been traveling. But this is a perfect example of the kinds of stories I love writing. because I saw like again like I'm sure like with sourcing like so I learn about restaurants from a mix of PR a mix of Instagram a mix of people telling me things a mix of reading other food publications obviously um and I'm pretty sure this was like PR pitch and I was like reading and I do read everything even if I never reply back to you I read everything sorry I read my email absolutely and I read this and I'm like oh this sounds like this could be a really interesting story especially now like again the East Asian the Tokyo coming into New York kind of thing Tokyo the pizzeria you're talking about the pizzeria the studio Tamaki did I say that right?
34:41pizza studio Tamaki or some arrangement of those words I always get it confused and I have it in my head I did not have a good meal there I had a good meal yeah so there you go this is how it goes and when we went to Japan like I very deliberately was like I don't want pizza in Japan really? like Like, why? Yeah. But, like, having – sorry. But, like, I had other priorities. But we had a good – my friend and I had a really good meal, actually. See, I want to have pizza. This is great. This is why Food Rare is talking about food. We have different opinions. Like, I want to have pizza in Japan. Like, I really want to go to Savoy.
35:13Like, I've always wanted to go there. I just want to see how it's, like, you know, these chefs think about naturally leavened pizza doughs and their own milling and stuff. But this is why we talk. Yeah. There was like something with the dough was just – it was springy with a little sourness in a nice way. You liked it? I was not – like I liked it way more than I thought it was. Yeah, yeah. I thought the pizza was super dry and like there was not good flavor development in the crust. So we had a different – Interesting. This is why pizza is hard. It's like different days. I was with another writer and we both kind of agreed on that.
35:46Yeah. I mean tell me about this menu. An early observation is like when I was in Korea about a year ago and, you know, Italian food there is big. Like it's been big for a while. And it's not like a fusion-y style. It's like pretty traditional like trottoria style cooking. Maybe small flourishes with herbs and things that maybe like you can only get in, you know, Korea. Like little elements and garnishes. But mostly like traditional Italian cooking. it's good so i mean great pastas in korea uh what is this what does this say to you like 70 korean 30 italian very interesting i like because the way he kept and also i had such a pleasant interview with him he was so passionate about what he's talking about he went on and on about the dishes and like it's a reflection of himself like in his like culinary career because he did work in italian restaurants for so long but then also he's korean right so he wanted to just like I don't know there's like a beautiful distillate it's this restaurant has hit the embodiment like the physical manifestation or the edible manifestation yeah I don't know what that right phrasing would be of like his career and his desires and like I love the way he thought about like when he was building out the dishes I like in figuring out what would be the Italian components and what would mesh well with the Korean components and what are like the comps like in Italian dishes and in the Korean dishes.
37:11And like that, it was a very scientific but also poetic way that he built the menu. And just like, again, that passion, when someone talks about that, and it's that like, like that real way of talking about things rather than parroting like media lines or PR lines or something like that. There's something beautiful about that. Like him talking about it made me so excited and it made the story like that much better. Like you can tell, like, I love it when you have like a really great interview and you can tell in the article when like that interview was like that was a great interview. I know. It's optimism.
37:46You walk away from those conversations. So Yang's resume runs. He was at Gramercy Tavern, Wojimi, and Maelino. So is that cool? There's a lot of Italian on that resume. I went to Oyat last night. Oh, what did you think? It was very interesting. And Eliza and I are going to chat about it for three things in more detail because I want to get to some other things here. But a reminder, this is from Hansung Lee from Culinary Class Wars, the runner-up of season two. Impossible reservation. I was blessed this from our friends in PR. Thank you for the reservation. And it's not Korean restaurant, I'll tell you that.
38:23No, and it's interesting because I did the soft preview testing out stuff. So it was very interesting. I was like, I'm still – did they still have the scallop? I really like the scallop. Yeah, very, very, very good scallop. Two floors, like progression, tasting menu, three hours. Hudson Valley Farm is at the center of it. I guess I will talk a little bit about here. I have a bunch of, I have like a page of notes that we're going to go over. But I like it. Like this is like very interesting to see a chef that has a classical background, like geranium, Gramercy Tavern. like really interesting resume and you're seeing it flexed you're seeing northern european inspiration you're seeing farm to table gramercy tavern obviously they have a farm in hudson valley so i'm i'm it's just like i had i thought of it right away because like thinking about how korean food is like a korean chefs is i would rephrase that and say this is a great moment to think about Korean chefs.
39:27Agreed, yes. And not Korean food. Right? It's, again, like, cooking is such a personal thing. Yeah. And developing dishes or, like, it is a reflection of yourself. So, like, that's actually a really beautiful way of putting it, honestly. I feel like, I mean, it's so exciting. Yeah. It's, I mean, I've been following this story for a long time. I'm just so excited that more and more folks are, and they're opening this one on 39th Street, like, in the middle block, like, crazy neighborhood. I walked by it. I didn't realize where it was. I love that. I was like trying to figure out and I was like, oh, okay.
39:59I love that. This is where it is with the little like Totoro-esque like garden-y outside, which made me so happy. I love it. These are the coolest restaurants, man. We have this segment that I want you to answer. It's what would you pitch 1997 Graydon Carter? The premise is 1997 Graydon Carter running Vanity Fair was offering contracts$200 ,000,$300 ,000 a year to write a couple stories. So you're getting a healthy budget. So Nadia, if you're given this opportunity, what would the story be? So would it have to be something for Vanity Fair or are I focusing on the budget aspect? I think in budget, good follow-up question.
40:35Okay. So this please do not steal any of my ideas that I'm talking about here. These are my ideas. Okay. My ideas. Yeah. Trademarked. Okay. So I'll do one because, again, my Texas-ness is going to show. My New York ideas that I really, really, really, really want to do, I want to do an exploration on Indo-Chinese food in New York City because I think that's a meshing that people don't realize is like a thing. Outside of like obviously if you grew up with it, like it's different. But Indo-Chinese was like always like our special treat, like going out food growing up. We had Indo-Chinese for my wedding and for my sister's wedding from the same caterer.
41:16Joy? Yeah. Shout out to Joy. People still talk about the food at our weddings. I would love to do just like a distillation because it makes sense of like obviously ventures stems from like South Asia and into here and just like there's such a good scene. And I would love to do like an entire package of history of that. Like send me to there. Send me there. Send me to India. Send me to Nepal. And then like going into the journey here and then it would be like an entire package like, you know, where to go and like key dishes and blah, blah, blah. Very cool. That would be my New York story. My Texas story is a story I started, but I have never.
41:51I would love to do. So like we all talk about New American, right? And there's like a version of that, like it's New Texan, right? Like so it's like New American, but with Texan dishes because Texas climate and produce is like a whole different thing than like New York or like than California. And I feel like there's a wave of new New Texan that I would love, love to dig into. like I have my example I have an outline of this actually like one day like I'll make it happen are we talking about uh is this from agriculture is this from shifting population it's shifting population it's a little bit of everything like agricultural yes because like again the seasons are different like yeah quail is more of a thing you know tomato season is so short strawberries are short you don't got chocolate down there yeah um and all of those things and then it is like you know the diverse the populations like um you have like like look at the beauty like you know the influences from mexico and from mexican immigration um you have southwest you have all the indigenous ingredients you have the growing population of like um in a lot of the cities um a lot of south asians like oh and there's more like you know and also like you know where chefs have been trained or chefs cooks have been training like you know a lot of like japanesey Oh my gosh.
43:05Because there's a lot of Japanese food in Texas. Oh my gosh. You know, like again, look at Uchi and like the national expansion, which is so fun. It's funny to me being like, because Uchi was Austin and now it's like this whole thing. And Uchi Co. Like they just opened in Philly or D.C. too, right? Philly and D.C., which is like mind blowing to me. Uchi Co was so good. I love it. I prefer Uchi. They're both good. They're both really good. You shouldn't pick favorites. I mean, the center of that is Houston. And Houston is like still an underrated, amazing food city. I really, really, really want us to go down there.
43:41Please do. I really want to do a Taste Travels Houston. Houston is, my husband likes to say this, because my father-in-law and stepmother-in-law live in Houston, so we would go there often for holidays and stuff when we were in Texas. Houston is basically like the Queens of Texas. Queens of the borough. Just like the massiveness and just like anything you want, you can find there. Oh, I mean the most incredible, like Korean, obviously Cajun. Vian Cajun is, oh my gosh. It's so great. And then like such polished Mexican cooking and fine dining settings, but also South Korea's and South Asian. So much good South Asian.
44:16And South Asian is a cuisine or genre or a culture that I've not explored there. And I've outlined it actually. I was like, we need to figure out South Asian cooking in Houston. It's lovely there. It's wonderful. We'll be emailing you for some recommendations for that one. Wow. So I feel like these stories need to... Please let it happen. Let it happen. This episode is brought to you by Quince. This time of year, I'm keeping things simpler in the kitchen. Lighter meals cooked with produce from the farmer's market, more last-minute dinners with friends. And it really makes me notice how much better everything feels when you love what you're cooking with.
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47:00Rula patients typically pay$15 per session when using insurance. Connect with quality therapists and mental health experts who specialize in you at rula.com slash taste. That's R-U-L-A dot com slash taste. On This Is Taste, we ask guests about the discerning taste. So close this interview. She has a little rapid fire, fast and furious taste check. Media edition. Are you ready? What is the first thing you read in the morning and where do you read it? Email. I go through my email. You like our inbox zero by morning? I'm not inbox zero, but I try to – I delete spam. I keep read things that I'm not going to reply to.
47:40It's a good way of getting breaking news, honestly, for me. Yeah. Because I subscribe to Gothamist. I subscribe to Hellgate. The City, I think, is one of the – New York Times, obviously. All the food publications that we have. So that and then I go through my Feedly because I'm still a Feedly girl. You're a Feedly person? Because it's a good – I miss when Twitter was good because that was what Twitter was for me. But Feedly is a good way of like going through and scanning through things that have happened. So it's all about getting its inbox in Feedly. Yeah. What do you read on actual paper, if anything?
48:15Magazine, girl. Yeah. I mean, I also have a big stack because I'm very behind on magazines. New York Magazine. New York Magazine. Bon Appetit. Food and Wine. Al. Cosmo still exists as a magazine? Cosmo. We haven't subscribed to GQ and Esquire. I need to renew those. Texas Monthly. I still subscribe here. I think those are the ones. These are great. Yeah. It's a great. I've been a New York Magazine subscriber, like, for a very, very, very long time. Oh, yeah. Yeah. I subscribed in college. Like, and when I was, like, in high school, I used to read New York Magazine all the time, too. Sure, you did.
48:55I had it in the household. Yeah. Yeah. I love that. Did you have a favorite food publication growing up? It would have been, like, the food section in New York Magazine. And Time Out New York. Honestly, Time Out New York shaped a lot of my, like, dining out when I was in high school. like their cheap eats um edition like i am pretty sure i have early 2000s copies of that like hidden away at my parents house still like that like because it was such a night like it's again affordable for like a high school kid on allowance like where to go eat around the city and like fun stuff and just like incredible journalism happening there early 2000s into like the late to early 2010s.
49:38So much reporting. I used to write. And when I was able, I wrote for them for a while, too. That was like, it was so special. I loved writing. I used to write. I worked on. My first food writing was, I'll share this because it's a food writing show. I wrote about Queen's Hideaway in Greenpoint in like 2006. That was my first published writing. Oh, wow. It was in Time Out, New York. I loved that. I loved it. And I thought it's a great memory because I think back then, you know, there was a lot more competition in some ways with like scoops. And like they were like fighting out for like exclusives and scoops and making sure those features were really timely.
50:18Loved it. It was like real like news reporting. Yeah. And I love news. I love the hard like hard news reporting. It's like really fun. And there's a joy. And there's like a like I can write a story in five minutes if I have to and get it up. It's great. I love that part of Eater. Yeah. Eater is still very vibrant with covering news and go to the website, go to the app because it's so true. And subscribe to the newsletter. And subscribe to the newsletter. All right. We all have relationships with PBS food programming. Was there a PBS show that you enjoyed growing up? So we did not. I do. I never.
50:54We never. PBS was not part of our. I mean, was Sesame Street? It was. I'm sorry. It's also like an immigrant household. to like um okay so i'm pretty sure we watched last time we street but no i never really so my like i don't know this is not a secret or like my shame i don't really watch food reality shows i've never been that person i never watched cooking shows um yeah not a top chef like i you know i kept track when they were there was a texas season or when there was texas chefs um obviously i kept track here um yeah yeah never did yeah cool yeah uh where are you at with youtube tiktok and and all of this uh vertical video that we're seeing and all these backseat reviews and it's it's interesting to me because it's again it's playing off of that not watching food reality or food competition and shows like that i am very bad at keeping track i realize like i have not opened tiktok in a very long time and that's not a like i should actually because it is a good way of like keeping track of like what's happening and what's going on there and what's trending or like what's popping off yeah um so like i don't really and i'm not i don't like watching videos online yeah i don't like so like my my moving video-ness is like i'd rather just watch a tv show or a movie honestly or music video um so like i don't really like it is interesting because it but it is how people are consuming or like under learning about places with videos and stuff like that so i'm more interested in like what is it that appeals to people about that and like i do star in videos i guess or like i am part of producing videos for eater so it's that's my like way of getting yeah i'm learning how to like exactly or like what like comparisons of like what other people are doing or if there's a video that a co-worker says like this was so good i'll watch that like it's that like more direct recommendation rather than being fed something from the algorithm.
52:50Love that. Last one. Where do you want to be in five years of your media career? This is the question of the times. I don't know. I hope it would be so lovely in an ideal world. Like I'm paid like a billion dollars a week, right? Being able to deep dive into things like stories that I mentioned, that would be so much fun. Yeah. But then I also like there's that. But then I also know myself like I need to do like. But then also I really love editing other people's stories. I love like ideating. I also like I'm a photographer. I love like I miss magazine. I don't know. Like you asked me this. I was like I want to do everything everywhere all at once.
53:32Like I love designing. I love I don't know. But I would love to be able to do a deep dive and like really like take your time because I feel like everything is just so we our attentions are as people as writers. as reporters we have to do so many things at the same time that there is no luxury we we're not afforded the luxury of like really sitting with subjects or topics and like letting ideas and letting angles come to you rather than like going in with an angle and like making that happen if that makes sense it does and i think that hopefully in the future there'll be funding for these types of projects where there's a little less of a time stamp and like an urgency to publish quickly.
54:17I think in the magazine world because of lead time and of course where we sit here in books. Yep. Ultimate. A book would be nice. Ultimate slow food in a literary sense. A book would be cool. I don't know what I would write about, but a book would be cool. Yeah. Nadia, this has been a terrific conversation. Thank you so much for joining us. Of course. Thank you so much for having me.
54:40This is Taste is hosted and produced by Eliza Abarbanal and me, Matt Rodbar. The show is edited by lead producer Clayton Gumbert and supervised by Pat Stango, director of media production and development at Penguin Random House. Thanks to Shalia Harris and the production team at Penguin Random House. Theme music by Steve Rydell. Episode portraits by Louise Zergon Pomeroy. Logo design by Ellie Skirzat and Ian Dingham. Visit Taste Online at tastecooking.com and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter to keep updated on all cool things in the world of taste.
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From the publisher
It’s the return of Food Writers Talking About Food Writing. Every couple of weeks, Matt invites a journalist to talk about some favorite recent food writing as well as their thoughts on the industry as a whole.
Nadia Chaudhury is the deputy editor of Eater New York and Eater Northeast, a born-and-raised New Yorker who spent a decade running Eater Austin before coming home. Her family is behind Kalustyan’s, the legendary NYC specialty food store that has been feeding chefs, cooks, and curious eaters since 1944. On this episode, Nadia and Matt discuss the state of food media, the stories she’s chasing at Eater, and what it’s like to grow up with one of New York City’s most essential food institutions in the family.
Featured on the episode:
The Carbone Team Will Open an American Tavern in the Tribeca Grill Space [Eater]
The Whimsy Killer in Your Pocket [Best Food Blog]
New East Village Restaurant Threads Korean and Italian Culinary Lines [Eater]
Faux Is a Real McNally Restaurant [NY Mag]
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