Fashion Neurosis with Christian Louboutin

26 Mar 2025 · 1 h 21 min

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Fashion Neurosis with Bella Freud - Episode Summary: Fashion Neurosis with Christian Louboutin

Podcast Overview Host: Bella Freud Guest: Christian Louboutin Description: In this episode, renowned French shoe designer Christian Louboutin discusses his iconic shoe brand, the significance of his signature red soles, and his life experiences that have shaped his identity and creativity.

Key Themes and Discussions

  1. Christian Louboutin's Background
  2. Early Life:
  3. Born in Paris, raised with three sisters and a loving yet trusting mother.
  4. Discovered at age 40 that he has Egyptian heritage, which reshaped his understanding of his identity.
  • Career Highlights:
  • Louboutin's red soles became synonymous with glamour and desire, celebrated by celebrities like Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez.
  • The brand has diversified into men’s footwear, handbags, and makeup while Louboutin remains directly involved in the design process.
  1. The Significance of the Red Sole
  2. Origin Story:
  3. Initially painted on a shoe to cover black soles using a fellow designer's red nail polish.
  4. The red sole transformed the shoe into an object of desire, linking it to concepts of sensuality and identity.
  1. Fashion and Identity
  2. Connection to Clothing:
  3. Discusses the power of shoes to express hidden aspects of one’s identity, similar to underwear.
  4. Reflects on how shoes can convey differing moods – "dressy" or "undressy" – and how they inform one's demeanor throughout the day.
  • Personal Style:
  • Louboutin reflects on his preference for colorful clothing and avoids wearing black, associating it with negative emotions.
  1. Mother’s Influence
  2. Trust and Freedom:
  3. Louboutin credits his mother for fostering trust and allowing him to explore his individuality without harsh restrictions.
  4. This nurturing environment contributed to his self-confidence and decision-making skills.
  1. Artistic Collaborations
  2. Collaboration with David Lynch:
  3. Shared experiences of working with filmmaker David Lynch for a project involving fetish shoes, emphasizing the emotional and artistic synergy.
  4. Lynch's unique style and vision contributed significantly to the aesthetic of the photo series, highlighting the transformative power of art.
  1. Personal Philosophy
  2. Optimism and Happiness:
  3. Louboutin emphasizes the importance of cultivating happiness as a conscious choice and shares insights on how he remains centered amidst life's chaos.
  4. He often wakes up with a positive outlook, contrasting with those who struggle with negativity.
  1. Thoughts on Leadership
  2. Reluctance to Lead:
  3. Expresses a lack of desire to take on a leadership role given the current state of global leadership.
  4. Prefers to focus on creating joy through his work rather than seeking power or responsibility.

Notable Quotations

  • "A shoe is where you can show something secret about yourself."
  • "I think it’s really important to see the glass as half full."

Conclusion The episode provides a deep dive into Christian Louboutin's life, offering insights into how personal history, creative collaboration, and the fashion industry intertwine with identity. Louboutin's perspective on happiness, trust, and artistry enriches the discussion, making it more than just a conversation about fashion—it becomes a reflection on life, love, and self-expression.

Additional Links

  • [Official Podcast Website](http://www.fashionneurosis.com)
  • [Fashion Neurosis Substack](http://www.fashionneurosis.substack.com)

Social Media

  • [@fashioneurosis_bellafreud](https://www.instagram.com/fashioneurosis_bellafreud)

This summary captures the essence of the podcast episode, highlighting key themes and personal anecdotes that resonate with listeners interested in the intersection of fashion and identity.

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Transcript

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1:11Hi, come in.

1:18Welcome to Fashion Neurosis, Christian Louboutin. Thank you. Can you tell me what you're wearing today and why you chose these particular clothes? I can try, but I have to say it's been a very complicated decision because I knew that I was going to see you lie down on a coach. So it was a lot of factors that I had to take into consideration, which I never do in general. I've never been lying on a coach. And I never saw you with that conscious. so it's been really one of the most difficult decisions that I ever had to do in my life I have a feeling but anyway I thought does it have to have a meaning probably it should should I be natural thinking of not thinking and going the way I was gave me a headache just thinking in that direction so it was really really difficult so bottom line uh i came as i was and i arrived from manchester so i took the trade in that outfit the only thing that i did is that i changed my t-shirt in case i had to speak of something so i put a t-shirt with a meaning and it's what does it say it's i don't remember what it says but it say something it's it says life has a purpose i don't remember it's a quote by dolly parton that's the one thing i do remember and it's a quote which i liked and as i loved dolly parton i thought a good quote of dolly parker would make it on a t-shirt so i have this t-shirt under which is my protective t-shirt otherwise again i thought probably let's try to have a meaning and again i never think that way when i dress up in general i go to a pair of shoes and i think what could go with that pair of shoes that's kind of about it but this time i thought okay i have these pairs of jeans which were given to be then the shirt i have no idea where it's coming from but it looked like a jacket and it's very warm and coming from France.

3:47But just before that, I was in Brazil. I was really concerned by being cold and not catching a flu or something, which I started to do, as you can hear maybe, with my nose taken. And so I actually really looked at my shoes. and I thought a shoe is really a shape before anything else. So I have these shoes that I did which has a bit of a cloudy shape. So I thought, I hate clouds, but I like cloud shapes. So I thought, okay, I'm going to have my cloudy shape, Mokassa. And it's all the same color. I've never seen you in a shape of shoe like that. Are they new, these shoes? Not really new. I mean, I have them for a few years, but they're still new to me because I barely wear them.

4:45I love them, but I barely wear them. And so they're two or three or four years ago. They're almost quite minimalist in your style. like the line is um it's like you've drawn it on i really like yes it's like a sketch it's like an unfinished sketch and yes so it's really a concentration just on the last and the rest is almost if you take a pen or pencil i don't know what it's gras when it's when you have a razor with it pencil so if you take a pencil and you take a 4b which is already a greasy one and then you you know you almost sharpened with it yeah so yes it's just light the line is reinforced by an outline of a different color yeah it's really nice and thank you i always associate you with color a lot and today your color is in your socks so it's quite a kind of muted color palette for you and from my position your socks match perfectly the soles of your shoes you have like this red herringbone red and white herringbone so you have a good point of view yes angle of view if you angle a very good vantage i always need to have something with colors i never wear black apart from if it's a black tie or funerals which often looks like the same and uh but i never wear black i wear colors in general but if i don't wear colors i always have something in colors for instance everything which is dark that i had made such as suits or things like that the lining would be the color i can't imagine myself surrounded by black or draped in black i remember that really be the creeps because When I first started my brand or a certain point, I used to give you jumpers and they were always black and you very politely showed enthusiasm.

6:56At a certain point you said, I don't really wear black. And then I sort of had an epiphany. Black with something works. Black all over black. Also, when I'm in black in general is because I gain weight. So being black for me is being in the worst shape that I've been in general. So I associate black with hiding. Or I don't hide, or I don't like hiding. And do you remember the first time in your life you found a piece of clothing that made you feel different? I would not remember that moment, because it probably happened at a very, very early age. I do remember always liking to dress up, but when I look at pictures of me as a child, I see things and I'm thinking how could I be dressed like that how come I didn't scream or something it's so weird that when you like so much to dress up you see clothes of you on you or the child which is you and you're thinking what was I thinking to let myself to be dressed in such a way and I guess it's a very nice thing of I like the idea that I was not conscious, I couldn't care less of clothes as a child, as an early child, because now I see having daughters age 10, they've been concerned about wearing their dress for years.

8:42I have no clue what I was wearing, and I really don't remember being conscious of I like this or I don't like this, age 7, 8, 9 or 10. And I immediately became conscious of, let's say, appearing with clothes around 11. I remember dressing up, that's for sure. And I remember, for instance, I was checked. The only mirror that we had in the apartment in Paris, at my parents' apartment, was in the bedroom of my parents. So there was a big mirror next to the bed of my parents. so I would look at myself just before going to school and I do remember looking at myself thinking that I looked good but it's not the first thing but the first look but let's say it's the first time that I do remember something connected to how I was dressed and I said okay now I go to school and my mother says you're not doing your school like that I said what do you mean?

9:49she said no you're not dress properly to go to school. You have to change. And I say, no, why? So we had an argument. So I had a pair of shorts. I had a very pointy shoes, laced up shoes that you had from the 50s. Like Winkle Pickers. I don't know in English. Gégen in French, rock and roll shoes in suede. you know red shoes they were maroon I had a tank top of panel velvet I had round kind of inflammable fluo yellow glasses with a necklace of that I made of grid for the two colors. Light green, lime green and darker green. So my mother said, you're not going to dress like that. I said, what do you mean?

10:56She says, you need socks with these shoes. You need socks. You will not go without socks. It doesn't go with my look. I don't want to wear socks. She obliged me to wear socks. I said, okay. she was going dramatic if I was that wear those socks I put the socks left the apartment that five minutes after I removed the socks I was at school like that so that's probably the first time I do remember discussing a look and it was a big argument socks or those socks your mother sounded like a remarkable person um she allowed you to leave home and live with a much older man when you were a teenager do you think her trust in your decision making was part of what's made you such a good decision maker I think that uh yeah my buzzer has been very instrumental in my behavior but also in my character and in my confidence so I think that trusting people is very important and trust with love is a very good mix it's a very very good combo and she loved me so she trusted me and she trusted me so she loved me and she let me be the way I was and so having no boundaries somehow is exposing yourself to your own boundaries instead of the boundaries which are not belonging to you but which are belonging to your parents, to society, to your family, to your siblings, whatever.

12:44So I had to create my own boundaries. I think it's been very good for me and it's been very good for her, let's say for the family because she didn't have to be afraid. She didn't have to take any decision which was probably boring. and again I refer to her because I think that I'm a little bit like that with my kids. So yes, I think it's good to be trustful towards your children. Then I guess it's, you know, first of all, of course it is personal but also it depends so much of the child's character still. but I guess that it's really a combo you do understand naturally that according to your child character if you can or if you decide to trust your child and let it go and which means that I never had a downfall with my family I never had this age which is like teenager which is called in French Lashbet, the stupid age, where you hate everything, you hate your parents, you hate everything which is saying you rise, you roll up your eyes, you hate the world, the adult, everyone is so stupid.

14:10I never had that. I mean, I had that with many people, but not with my parents at least. And definitely that with my mother. That's so unusual. I mean, the description, her reaction to your outfit is such a good example that she must have been concerned about your feet getting cold or something instead of, you know, I thought you were going to say, she said you can't wear those clothes out, and instead she's wanting you to put some socks on. Yes, no, no, no, she was really concerned by the lack of socks. It would have looked really bad. And then after her death, you discovered that she'd had a love affair with an Egyptian, a young Egyptian man and that you're the result of that love affair.

14:59And I always remember we've been friends for 30 years and I remember asking you once, do you have Arabic blood? Because I lived in Morocco when I was a child and I've always had a strong affinity to that country. And you just said, are you crazy? And then you told me the story that your sister told you that this young man was your father. And I wondered if you'd ever met him and whether your artistic brilliance comes through him. You know, it's interesting that the few people I have been discussing the discovery of my biological father being Egyptian, women would ask if I wanted or if I had met that person never men men have never asked me my my male friends have never asked me about if I wanted or if I had met that person the reality is that no I have never met the guy and neither felt the need of beating.

16:12It's really the story of my mother.

16:17And I am the result of that story. So I'm very happy of the existence of that man. My father has been my father who educated me, who was next to me. So it's really the story of my mother. And I think that it's nice. If I feel, if one day I feel that I should meet or try to meet that person, I will do it. I have no problem with that. But it needs to come from a feeling, not from just curiosity. And the only thing that I think that it's way too vain, the only thing which kind of makes me want to maybe meet that person is that many times if I have to have my photography taken by a photographer, photographers always tell me, you have a beautiful smile.

17:12Yeah. My sister told me that was the first time she met that guy in our apartment in Paris. He say hello to her with a beautiful smile that he left by the window. Wow. So day after, same scenario. beautiful smile and he flew by the window sixth floor but above on the roof and the scenario went on and on and on and so i guess that i have the smile of that band but again it's the only reason where i would like to maybe see that band is just to see if we have exactly the same smile which i think we have but it's not enough of a reason to actually you know drag thing and whatever to to beat someone but i think that i have the smile of that man that's the thing which we have in common it's a nice thought really to have this this thing that it's you know i i'm conscious that it's a very vain thought but again it's funny because really photographers always tell me that So I've always been thinking, what is that smile they're talking about?

18:30And then when my sister told me that, I immediately thought, okay, so now I know where is my smile coming from. Well, a smile is such an uplifting, it's such a connecting thing. So it doesn't seem like vanity. It seems like some sort of alliance that it's a lovely description. and you do have this wonderful smile that makes everyone start falling around laughing immediately, which is one of your many qualities. Well, I'm happy about that. But again, I am conscious that entering a thing where I would want to meet that man who happened to be my father that I've never met would probably make me enter into a different zone.

19:24and if I had time, if I had, also if I was kind of empty or if I was looking for myself somewhere, somehow, or if I wanted to have a mission in my life that I don't have or whatever, maybe it would be a nice thing to do, but I'm quite busy and I'm quite happy. So it wouldn't be, I mean, I don't look for more happiness that I have. And I definitely don't look for more time-consuming anything that my life at that time, at that moment now. But again, I was very happy for my mother because she met that when she was in her late 30s and I thought that it's a beautiful story that I know as a fact in my family.

20:19I know that when you're a product of love, it can go both ways. You may be adored or you may be hated. You may be the person, the child may be that person who broke that love story between two people. One person left because of that child. Or the opposite, that child represents this huge love between two people and then you're becoming the nest of that, le creuset of that story. In my case, I am the positive side. I received all the love that she could not give anymore to that parent who literally fled when I was born. But it could happen a different way. Someone disappeared because you were born.

21:10But thank God, it's been very much the opposite for me. So I owned that parent to be born. but I own to my father who raised me to be alive. That's to be alive after being born, let's say. Yeah. What an amazing family you have. I know your parents are both dead now, but it's kind of an amazing story of really good values and really good feeling towards each other. Your parents sound like they had. I was always surprised when I was a kid when I was bringing back people in the apartment of my family it could be boyfriend, it could be girlfriend it could be anyone who was going to sleep and they were often surprised and I was like, why would they be surprised?

22:08It's a very random apartment it's nothing special there and i realized that they were surprised by the warmth the um the welcoming uh the easy welcoming i would come at four o 'clock in the morning i didn't have the key and i had to whistle we were living on the sixth floor without an elevator so floor number four i started to and then before the sixth floor so door was open and my boss would have opened the thing but she never never accepted that i would have the key she wanted to be woken up anytime so people were always surprised to see someone say oh i saw you free okay so take the bigger bed and she would go in my bed and give her bed which was bigger and so people were surprised it was natural to me You know, you're three people.

23:08It's easier to sleep at three people in a bigger bed than having your mother sleeping in a big bed and you're three in a small bed. So for her, it was simple. So for me, it was simple too. But I saw that the simplicity was seeming very complex to most people. But for a long time, I did not understand why. And then after I started to understand why, I still think she was right. if you're free take the bigger bed it sounds like me and Jimmy my son who's your godson I'm always I'm just so happy to see him even if it is at 3 in the morning I'd rather you know open the door and I'd rather he woke me up than end up in any kind of difficult situation yeah you're a good mother you're a great godfather I would be happier you as a i'm my mom okay that means a lot and i read somewhere that you'd said it depends on whether you want to feel dressed or undressed on which shoe you choose to start the day can you describe what that means first of all it's more uh having to see with women's shoes i would say that there is this thing on women's shoes not so much on men's shoes it's a very very different topic men's shoes and women's shoes but for women yes uh shoes can undress you or shoes can definitely dress you and it's it's a different it's a different pair of shoes it's different kind of shoes but when i have to dress up when i wake up the first thing i'm thinking is the shoes So I guess it's an extension of how you're going to want to feel during the day.

25:05And so that's why, for instance, when I am designing shoes, I really am conscious at one point to do something which is dressy or something which is undressy. I would say undressy is to kind of be able to exhibit yourself and dressy is to basically wear a mask. So some shoes are like a mask and some shoes are like the opposite of a mask. And I think it's more daring, of course, to be undressed. And saying that, I don't say that you want to be undressed all the time or you want to be undressed for everyone or you want to be undressed in front of everyone or you want to be undressed in the morning.

25:58I mean, you know. It's a brilliant description. Moods are changing all the time. But yes, it's a different, it's different pairs of shoes. So when I am designing, I have this in my mind. Sometimes I look at my work, when I'm designing, I'm thinking, ah okay this is christian the macho side of me this is the stylist this is another shoe this is the friend of women and this is sometimes the woman who speak there and it's different characters and i know that it doesn't shatter in my brain but they're almost literally a different part of my brain you have different characters so sometimes I look at one design that I did and I think okay if I am a guy and the girl who is wearing that is going out with me I may say darling do you mind to change the shoes something doesn't work for me I understand that kind of macho point of view and the stylist would say no own it it's you it's your decision or whatever i understand also the designer fight but sometimes it's not the same character i respect every character i'm trying to respect every character in myself as i try always very consciously to respect people in general god that's so interesting like having different characters it is like a play you know who gets the upper hand or and why why do they decide when does the macho win and when does the vulnerable person win and so interesting do is there something that you remember wearing to be consciously attractive to somebody?

28:13For the longest time, the idea of sexy was very alien to me and I never was interested into the world of sexy. And it looks strange because suddenly a big part of my world is considered sexy, if not ultra sexy, if not over sexy, if not exaggeratedly sexy, if not violently sexy, if not vulgarly sexy, if not anything, but still sexy. A big part of my life, I was very alien to sexy. I had no clue. And if I was dressing up, I was always to try to look pleasant. sexy was that a word that I was using and actually as a teenager in my 20s too I had a kind of aberration of sexy I was scared by sexy I never had any sexual problem I had sex all my life with different people so it's that about having problem with sex but the idea of sexy or being obsessed by sexy or wanting to look sexy never occurred to me ever ever ever and before you established your brand you worked for Roger Vivier and I always remember you telling me this story about how you asked him a question it was something to do with someone's age and he'd replied oh you know our age our age yes but you were a teenager and he was 80 what did you learn from him?

29:56I was 24, he was 80 years old. I said, you know, our age. I was like, but Roger, we have a little bit of a difference in age. And he looked very shocked, that I would say, that we had a little bit of a difference. And he was right, because we were pretty similar. Well, I guess, you know, 24 plus 80, it's 104, so we were in our 50s, both of us. We were meeting in our kind of early 50s. That's how we felt, at least. But I learned that, you know, So really, it's funny how much I remember because I have been having friends, multiple friends, older than me for a big part of my life. So it's interesting to see that when you're still a kid and you see older people, what is the most shocking is that as a child, you really see a border, a very fat border between teenagers, let's say young people.

30:55and old people start at 35 when you're like 14, 15, 16 or whatever. So it's interesting to see that. In fact, to me, it was fascinating to see old people, meaning someone who was 35, jumping on bed and screaming and farting. I was like, this is for kids. I'm not going to be that old. I'm going to be that old. And then, of course, you realize that there is not so much change. So at one point you realize that you don't know when the change is arriving. You end up being a child trapped in a kind of slightly older skin. But as long as a child is there, it's great. And the child in some people has a hard time to disappear, which is a good thing.

31:50There's nothing wrong with keeping the child, your inner child yourself. but as a child I was very conscious that I was looking at adults thinking adults don't act like adults so what is it to be an adult because one day I will become an adult but I cannot be like that jumping on the bed and saying silly things and being very happy about all of it and breaking the bed and whatever and of course you know I could jump on that coach very easily if I was lying on the coach I always remember coming to stay with you in Portugal when you had a very small tiny little house and when Jimmy was about six or seven I was trying to find him and then I opened the door and it was pitch black in this tiny room and you and Jimmy were dancing like maniacs to Mika turned up top volume so and it just felt like oh he's fine he's safe that's the best thing that could be going on it was but you I think that dance is such an important thing and I'm so happy to see that now people children have really less problem if if that to say no problem to dance yes i totally agree um i know you've told this story before and to me many times but can you tell me about the red soul and how it happened how it started yeah well it started very simply it's because uh And I draw and I draw and I put colors on my drawings most of the time.

33:47Now I start to be a little bit lazy sometimes. I don't put colors. But most of the time I was putting colors. I still put colors. Anyway, and what is important for me is to have the first drawing, the primary drawings, to be the reflection of the real shoe needs to be as close as the first drawing. And when there is a small border between the reality and your fantasy as a sketch, it's a great satisfaction. Because, of course, a sketch is only a sketch, so you have to adapt it to a real life as a three-dimensional. But if you remain quite very close and faithful to your primary journey, it gives you such an excitement and such satisfaction.

34:40So anyway, I was sketching and then the shoes that I was sketching were inspired by the kind of serigraphy of Andy Warhol. So pop colors, etc. with block of colors. And then so one shoe was a reflection of one of the paintings of Andy Warhol, which is called Flowers. Yeah. But I never look at things. I have them in my mind and then I'm thinking of them and then do it my way. So I had this painting in mind and it was flowers. So I did the Mary Jane with a high heel, pointy last, and it had a big buckle and the buckle was a flower. And everything was full of colors and different colors. So when the shoe became a shoe, I looked at it, but I always have the sketch next to it.

35:31And for some reason, the sketch was better than the real shoe. The shoe fit, it was good. the flower looked good but when I was turning it somehow from the back there was a lot of black and there was no black in my designs no black the white no beige no brown no taupe no gray no kind of dark colors etc so anyway and so the person who had tried the shoot it was in Italy had finished to try all the shoes during the day. So she was painting her nails with a nail polish. So I thought, okay, what about if that shoe had no black, had a color instead of black, which eats the rest. So I grabbed her nail polish and after a little bit of a fight, because she had two nails, she went, ah!

36:26I grabbed the nail polish and I painted the sole red. So it was not to add a color, it was a bit to add a color, but also to have that black disappearing. And then suddenly I could find my drawing again. You know, the drawing became alive. But I thought, okay, that works. So it needs to be full of colors. But as I am a little bit basic, and it was around Christmas, I thought, okay, I should do the soul green because it's around Christmas. and then I put the first soul grid and I looked at it and I said doesn't work the way red was working no no no no no I have to start by red and then I ended up sticking to red because even if you don't like colors red is an element which exists on someone who is dressed in black the lips are going to be red the nails may be red so even if you don't supposedly wear colors you'll have a dilemma of red very often so I stuck to red and now I'm stuck with red happily stuck with red it's such a good story I get goosebumps every time I hear it because it's just it's so kind of it could have so easily not happened and it's a it's such an example of your genius I the way you decide on what you choose and you know from your earliest decisions what you talked about your mother and making these you just have this incredibly this unerring instinct and you you notice what works and I love that story and how it transpired it's just and you always see what's you know like grabbing the nail varnish in life you're very much that person that you see there's something missing and oh there it is this is what's needed and it's very it's very simple but so so inspired you know i i do sometimes think uh that i have without being conscious of it i have personal ingrained mantras like for instance you have the glass which is half empty of half full to me I always see the half full and I always see the good side of it of things in general and but again I think okay it's probably at the beginning of nature but then after it becomes a decision you at one point decide of things and so naturally I think I'm a very optimistic person but then I learned to understand that it was somehow a quality and when you understand that, kind of stick to it.

39:35And yes, out of dark things, I can always see an end of a tunnel. Out of dark things, I will always see the brightness somewhere. and probably helped me many, many times. Yeah. I suppose it's practice. I remember you telling me I always wake up happy. And as I always wake up in a bit of a gloom, I thought this is really something. And I thought about that quite a lot. And I do things to shift my mood purposefully because it's a real blessing to be able to have that, you know, be inclined towards that because it saves all this kind of climbing up from the abyss where someone like me often starts off.

40:33And then I suppose it's a bit like exercise. The more you are happy and know how to make yourself happy, the more you are happy. I'm really pleased that the Jane Goodall Collection with Brilliant Earth connects to my vision of how we can live in harmony with nature. Every choice we make ripples outward, and you can choose what sort of impact you make. I know that the things I've worked for all my life will carry on. Discover the Jane Goodall Collection exclusively at Brilliant Earth.

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41:28If I surf in the morning or if I get in the ocean, my day is always better. It's amazing. This is amazing right now. It's early morning, just past sunrise, and we're out at Rockaway Beach in Queens. The beach is empty except for the surfers, like Tracy. The only surfing beach in New York City, and it's pretty awesome. My name is Tracy Obolski, and I am the owner of Rockaway Beach Bakery. The ocean is very powerful. There's also so much beauty to it. Being in the ocean makes me feel really connected, more confident, motivated, energized. I come out and I'm smiling. You just feel on top of the world.

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42:44I think energies are important. As much as I don't believe in God, I really believe in energy and how much you are driving your energies and you are attracting energies. So if you are negative energy, everything is becoming negative or you receive the negativeness from all over. So if you are really more positive with positive energy, it works the same way. And I really think that it's, again, it's, I'm kind of serious about that. I've understood that it's a serious matter to decide to be happy. You are probably naturally happy, but then it's something that you have to cultivate because it's such a nice thing to feel happy.

43:38And also, for instance, I do remember being with Louise, that you know very well, my ex-boyfriend. We were in a car on the way to the airport, and he was screaming because we were missing the flight. At one point, he looks at me and he said, but you're so calm. Why? I said, first, you don't leave any room to be screaming. You scream for five people. But also it doesn't make any difference. If we miss the plane, we miss the plane. It's not by screaming and being hysterical that suddenly the Red Sea is going to open and the car is going to go all the way to the airport. So there's nothing we can do about it.

44:17So why being so miserable? And he looked at me if I was crazy. I said, well, we have no power over that. So why do you give yourself a headache? It's not going to change anything. But I think that once you realize that you have no power on things which are kind of negative, forget about it. To feel bad or to be hysterical about that doesn't make a difference. As long as you have empathy, which is a very different thing. I think that otherwise, to be fully forced, enraged about things doesn't help. Yeah, that's a waste. A shoe is where you can show something secret about yourself, especially if you're a bit introverted.

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45:11And it's almost like underwear, which is invisible. But with shoes, you can kind of indicate something. and I wondered how you connect so successfully to this thing that women really want. Well, I think I do know a bit about women because I was raised by women. But also, I was a little boy when my sister was older. And funny enough, so when my father was that day, I was the early boy in the village, as they say, in Little Britain. I was the only boy in the apartment. But I was a small one. So I was not a male figure. So I could see women in the world of women, where you are not considered as a man, as a male figure, but like as a little puppet, as a pet or whatever.

46:10You know, women together are acting the way they're acting between women. Suddenly my father would appear. or like a grown-up man would appear. They were different. But for the most time, I was by myself with, you know, with the harem of women in the apartment. So I could see it all. I had every story, you know, the period, the boyfriends, how you get fat and not fat and whatever, the underwear, the fish. I had it all. And I never was neither shocked. I was always amused, but I always had the feeling to be at looking at a play. You know, being like in a Cucor movie, you know, with all those stories.

46:55You draw the most beautiful feet with a high-end step. And I wondered if, is there a foot shape that you find completely impossible? A foot shape or a shoe shape? well a foot shape really something you find hard to dress foot shape difficult is really what i call the pizza foot which is where the foot is really flat flat flat flat with little of an ankle so slightly straight behind if you do the profile like an l no curves like a 90 degrees eker kind of style and then the foot really large by the front which happens often when people have this position since they are kids like sitting on their feet you know like almost like let's say a japanese uh sit you know where you're just sitting and you rise a thing because it's engaged the muscles and the bones to be to stabilize the entire body weight on the front of the foot so So it develops a larger foot in the front.

48:13God, that's so interesting. And it's complicated. Then after, it's not that pretty. But then after also it's very difficult to do a shoe, which is not a flat shoe, where when you put it on a heel with an arch, that it doesn't open the shoe. It's not a good look for foot once a foot is dressed or even a bit undressed, but elevated. And what do you think of the ankle boot? Nick Cave said he hates them. Yes, I know that Nick said that, Cave said that. I understand. I understand because I don't have a problem with ankle boot, but I have a problem with Napa unlined ankle boot. I do remember speaking often to this guy who was a great journalist, musician, called Yves Adria in the 70s in Paris.

49:17He was the journalist for music. Great guy, very 70s look. And he has those boots, that line, so like gloves. I could see his feet touching all the leather. So you could see the feet molded on the boot. and I was really disgusted. I could barely find anything. He was very interesting, but I could find anything he would say. I would be reserved because it looked, I don't know, something looked weird because of his feet on his boots. Something looked always fake. I mean, I could not take him seriously because I looked at his boots and I was like, ah, how can you be seriously interesting having those animated fingers inside those Napa boots.

50:11I was horrified by that. And so I have a problem with boots where you do see the body of the shoe, where you do see the bone. I don't like to see bones in shoes. So when it's on a boot, you do see a big part of the foot, and I find it really disgusting. So yes, I do not like ankle boots where they are lined, and when you do see the fruit inside. You know, we have this thing in French called, it's a terrible expression, called boule bit. So mold dick. So it's when people have those underwears, you know, swim underwear, and you see everything. So putre apparente ou boule bit, where the dick is molded.

50:58You do see the dick, you do see the mold, etc. Here we call it budgie smugglers. Budgie smugglers. Yes, as though you've got a budgie down your trousers and you see all this outline of these strange shapes. Voilà. So I have a problem with budgie smugglers on the foot. That's great. Around the ankle, it's fine. But on the foot, budgie smugglers looks really bad. Yeah. So everything which is budgie smuggler on the foot side, I don't like. So that's why I don't like napa ankle boots. So this might answer my next question, which is if you fancy someone and you don't like what they're wearing, does it kill your attraction?

51:45No, it doesn't kill my attraction to find someone very badly dressed. On the opposite, I think that if you're attracted by someone, everything which is kind of around is interesting. Because if you don't like it, it means that you like something else than what they wear. So it makes you think, what do I like about the person as I don't like the appearance? So it's just not about the appearance. It needs to be about something else. so I find it way more interesting to be attracted by someone that you don't like really you don't like the looks and everything because it means that it's not the look that you're attracted to but it's something else and as much as appearance means something I like that I'm not attracted by the appearance but I may be attracted by something else which reminds me of one thing a long time ago.

52:42So I used to dress up a lot, especially when I was going in clubs. I don't remember the age I was, probably 14 or 15 years old. And then I was in the black club called Le Palace in Paris. And this guy told me to come over here. And you know, when you're 15, anybody who wants to speak to you, you're happy because when they're by the bar, you know that you're going to have a free drink. So I was like, okay. so I go to him and he says okay so I saw you because I was really like a parrot you know I was very visible he said okay so I noticed you so what do you have to tell me and I looked at the guy I said what he said you want to be noticed I noticed you so what do you want to say and I was very offended I was like that's the worst way to be flirtatious to someone who does he think he is and I left but then it stayed in my mind and I realized that it stayed really in my mind for years not every day of course but it stayed in my mind and one day I actually understood I thought okay when you're very young you like to be flaboyant or to be noticeable of course it means something of course it means that you want to be detached from the rest of people.

54:06So you probably, which probably means that you want to say something. At that age, I had no clue what I wanted to say. I still don't know, actually. But basically, it's a way to say, hey, you know, I'm slightly different than other people around, and this is a way to engage a conversation. Oh, this is a way to, that maybe people are interested by you. So the guy was just telling me, I'm interested by you. So why? Tell me what you have, which is so special, and I should be interested by you. But I took it really badly. I thought, what a prick to be like that with me. And actually, after I understood that very well, I thought that was very smart.

54:48He probably was a very smart person. I should have found something to say instead of saying, who do you think you are? There's something a bit shaming about how he said it to you, like challenging in a way that, I mean, I can't. Well, it was a very mature way to be with like a teenager, trying to pick up a teenager in a smart way and not to be like too cheesy, I guess. It was definitely not cheesy, but probably I would have preferred to have it more cheesy. Definitely. I always remember that time we went for breakfast. This was probably in the 90s on Sunday, and we found this big cafe off the Rousse de Rivoli, and there was no one in there, and we sat down and ordered a cappuccino, and then this waitress, anyway, they never arrived, and we were chatting like crazy.

55:46And then when she came back, and we asked her where it was, the coffee, and she said, you have to leave. Yeah, I remember. I was furious. Yeah. And then we were so angry and then we got up very calm. And then suddenly she was passing with a tray of drinks and you just slapped the tray of drinks from underneath. And we ran down out and running, screaming and laughed. and I've never seen you ever angry or lose your temper. And I wondered how you do stay so even because you often have a thousand problems and frustrating things to deal with as the fashion business is not, you know, famously everything goes wrong all the time.

56:30But how do you manage to not freak out? In general, I don't know. I find a solution that it's that sad, important what happened. But I remember what you're talking about. We waited for hours and then she said, you have to go. And I was like, she could have said it 30 minutes ago. So I was furious. I just didn't know what to do or what to say. I thought that there was nothing to say. The only thing is that I restrained myself to not to throw her the entire table to her face. So I got quieter and I just froze the table. but just got careful that it wouldn't affect her face or anything. But I was furious.

57:18She deserved it. Bitch. Totally. I never came back to that restaurant, ever. I always remember asking you. I know exactly what it is in the corner of my street. I never came back. On that bridge. I remember saying, why did you suddenly get so angry? And you said, I don't want her to think, just because I'm wearing pink trousers, she can push me around. Yeah. And it was such a sort of abstract reason that you... It's true. She had a bit of a condescendant, like... Oh, gosh, she was so haughty and sneering. This little couple thinking they're on the top of the game because they wear colours. I'm going to smash them.

58:04That doesn't work that way. Viva la color.

58:11No, no, no. She had an attitude. She had an attitude very rude. You never do that. You never do that. You know, sometimes it's happened, that thing, but you just arrive, you apologize. When you do something nasty, at least please apologize. Especially when you know that you're nasty and you do something nasty, just be smarter or do apologize. She definitely got a lot of pleasure. It was a pure block of aggression what she did. So she received a little part of it. But it's rare. It's rare. It's rare when I lose my time. You work with a team, but you design everything with Hugo, who's your right hand.

58:54And it's quite unusual these days that a designer does design everything themselves. And you draw a lot. And how do you sit down and start? Well, I always, it's the same thing, you know, to work. My main work is designing, so drawing. So the first thing is to be in an environment slightly isolated, but that I know, which is very comfortable in the sense of I don't have to look for a restaurant, I don't have to look for a place. I know where are the markers, where are the pencils, where are my razor. I know the food I'm going to have, etc. So there is no distraction around. So it's basically places where I used to go.

59:43So I go either to Rio where I have this apartment or I go to Portugal or I go to Egypt for the summer collection. I go to Brittany where I have a house for the winter collection. Kind of like this because I'm quite afflicted with light and climate when I'm sketching. And then I guess it's first the pleasure of drawing. you don't necessarily need at the first second inspiration about what you're going to design. In fact, to draw and to correct my lines is a big pleasure. So out of that, I start to sketch. But I always start with a white page. If I have things in mind, I put music according to those moods.

1:00:26Otherwise, no music is my favorite thing. And then I start sketching. and then I guess the friends that I have who are writers I call it the anguish of the white page. So there is this thing, but I know because it has become a routine for 34 years now, I know that I'm kind of mushy, mushy for the first maybe half day and then, baf, it floats. And then really I sketch, I sketch, I sketch. and then we review the drawings that we've been doing the first three days and then start speaking about it and then continue again. So every three days we kind of do a little review and amass a certain amount of sketches.

1:01:18And then after two weeks we go back to France. But it's the same routine. I haven't changed. The one thing that I don't have is that I can be inspired by zillions of things, but I don't work with documents. I do not bring things. For instance, when I drew the shoes inspired by the Warhol's flowers, I looked at the painting of Andy Warhol after the shoe was finished. So I was kind of accomplished. Yeah. And the flower of Andy Warhol has no outlines. It's not three petals. It's four petals. it's one color the hurt is the same color when for me i design a three petals outline a different color the hurt of the flower is another color so it's a completely different yeah so when you're designing you can be inspired by things but i think that it's it's better to have it without the documents of it which have been inspiring to you because then it goes through the filter of your memory and your visual memory, which is really a machine which has done a lot of work from you to you.

1:02:32And then when it comes out, it's no longer a document. This document has been chipped in here with so many other things that it comes out not as a Xerox, as a copy, but as your own thing, your own view on something, your own vision view on something so that's the thing that I do that's my routine is working with no documents and everything stored in my head sometimes a little bit of an object could be so I start almost like a greff and start sketching and it's becoming bigger whatever but really small details I could have very small things small details that I like to really try to do the curves of those details of an element.

1:03:22But that's it. That's it. And I've never worked differently. Never. No, never. It's always been like that. And there is no fear. There is no fear. And if my sketches, the only thing is that I don't take, I mean, first of all, I don't take drugs in general. But I mean, I would not take drugs. Every time I've been smoking pot and drew, was a disaster. I'm like for four hours on a sketch, and then, oh my God, this is the most beautiful sketch. And the morning after, I'm like, okay, I lost one entire day doing that pretty sketch with nothing on. And, but you know, you correct, and you correct, and then there is a little beep, and then you have to scratch the beep, et cetera.

1:04:11So I think, for instance, I have the feeling for musicians, pot can be a kind of good isolation moment or whatever you know it kind of puts you in a kind of bubble which can be a creative bubble but for me to draw is a disaster i have to be very clear yeah i mean that alcohol nothing i need to be clear and you collaborated with david lynch He made photographs of the fetish shoes that you designed for your, you had an exhibition. And you asked two girls from the Folies Berger to model. And there was something very pure about the photographs. I was looking at them again before you came. and they're so cool and sort of their bodies are so contained and then the shoes are so erotic and extraordinary.

1:05:13And what was it like to work with him? It was fantastic to work with David. And it came that way. I wanted to design shoes which were not done to walk anyway. And they were really objects of desire, an object of fetishism. Fetishism is a big word. You can embrace a lot of different fetishism. So I thought, okay, I'm going to design these shoes not to be worn, but really to be objects. On the side of different aspects, fetishist aspects. So I thought there should be a light, somehow a very distinct world universe. And I thought it's definitely not a fashion photographer. It should be someone a la Lynch.

1:06:09I have this weird thing that I never really think that people would be interested to do something with me. So I would barely never ask anyone to do something with me. That's why I do very little collaboration and thing because I always think probably, you know, maybe it's a fear of being rejected. So I never ask anything to anyone. So like this, I've never rejected. I am totally conscious that I want to do something Lynch style. I know David. So I still have to ask him first. He's going to refuse, but I cannot take the risk that he's thinking, these guys that I know, we were friends, and he's been copying my work.

1:06:53That's pretty offensive or whatever. So I was conscious that I wanted something very Lynch way, The coloration, the patina of Lynch, incredible visions in photography, in light, in colors. So I thought out of politeness, I have to ask him that he will say no. And then I will try to find someone that I'm thinking would be a good thing. So I went, we had a drink with David. He was in Paris. And then I said, well, I have a little bit of a project. that I wanted to speak to you about. And I totally understand that you will say no, you can say no, but I still need to speak to you about it because I've been thinking about you.

1:07:36And he said, what is it about Christian? And I said, well, it's, I have shoes that I wanted to be photographed, shoes not to be worn, but really shoes around fetishism, the ideas, the multiple ideas on fetishism. and he said okay let's do it i said what do you mean he said let's do it where are the shoes i said was that in my head why i said because i wanted to ask you first started the project was making sense that i would do the shoes he said let's do it it was a symbol of that and then he says, you have to develop, you have to show me the sketches. And I'm sad because I lost them. He lost them.

1:08:24I'm even more sad. But at least I'm not responsible. He lost them. And so I did every shoe. And then I explained the kind of category of fetishism. It was big. It was belonging to. So I show him and say, OK, do the shoes. Needs to be worn on girls you choose the girls but one thing no bones no what no bones what did you say what do you mean by bones he says the shoes are beautiful but they're extreme me photographing these shoes if it's on skinny girls model style it's going to look that they come out of like a tortured a chub or something horrible. So it should not be, it should not be with skinny girls.

1:09:19I don't want to see a bone in those girls. That's the only thing. No bones. I said, okay. And then I proposed him two girls from the Crazy Horse. So great dancers from the Crazy Horse in Paris. And he said, yes. and the best to photograph girls where the body is going to be important, the best people are always dancers because they know how to express with their body. Model, try to express with a face. It's way more complicated. They need to be very, very good to come out with something, which I'm interested by. but dancers express their entire body and it gives way better pictures. And also it's someone who loves Belmer, who knew the work of Bollinier.

1:10:17So there is this thing about twisted, curvy bodies and still sketched bodies that I understood where he goes, what he's liking and where he's coming from. and on that we have some common points. So we did those pictures for two days in the studio in Barreze. Very little crew, one person with the light, another person called Liden Cabra, him, and another person doing, I don't remember what, and then a makeup artist who had to go when he started to do the picture in another place, and that's it, and someone with a cabra. kind of documenting more or less. And it was very, no one that he knew actually.

1:11:09And it was very interesting because without asking anything to anyone, everyone was acting. I don't know how you say in English, why do you speak like this? Oh, in a hushed way. Everyone was hushing. And I think that everyone had the feeling that we were living a very special moment with a very special, with an incredible human being, with an incredible character, with an incredible artist. And he needed that silence around him and everyone was aware. You were almost like in a church and he didn't ask anything. He never did chat or anything, never. But the respect comes with him immediately. He was always surrounded.

1:11:59First of all, he was such an iconic person that people are recognizable physically, that people in his presence were very, very kind of almost scared and almost if they were seeing a kind of God or idol. And so it means that the surrounding was always very smooth. And he was a painter. you know he was as many artists actually doing something as a painting painting is a ultimate it's a ultimate form of art so he never paid he did paint but his art is biggest developer of course has been in movies and also music but definitely not in painting even if these paintings are beautiful so it was really interesting because for instance the way he was working with the light so it was still pictures, but it was almost like a slow movie.

1:12:56So he was having the camera and he talked to the assistant to take the light almost like a brush. So he would have this big light, the assistant, it was heavy. And he had to brush the girl, meaning the light has, if you were like painting someone in a second, in another second, like that. And then the moment the brush was on, he would take the picture. So that very, very, very weird light from David Lynch's movies is coming from the way he's brushing very, very, very quickly and very strongly his characters, which gives that really impactful light just to the people. And it was really impressive because it was a lot of movement.

1:13:47Sometimes he was taking the picture. Most of the time he was brushing. with the light. So he was asking to the assistant just to click but the most important thing was how he was brushing the person and it gives that weird light where there is no light but the light seems to come from inside the character, the skin of the person. So it was really very impressive. That's why also I think that people were into kind of almost a coma. You know, no one was speaking. it looks almost like those figures of those girls are like an apparition all like how you've described this luminosity comes from within them and then there are these incredible shoes and their naked body seem like so pure and god i mean they're so beautiful have you have you got those photographs i have the photographs yes and you know again it's it's interesting how much you know I've been traveling to many countries which I'm very happy of having traveled to and most of the time I want to go there when once I'm there you can be the most beautiful landscape it's the most beautiful front of the most beautiful panorama you still are starving you have like you know you still have you want to have a glass of water you want to whatever you You have all your basic needs, basically.

1:15:17And you're not necessarily thinking, wow, where am I? What am I doing there? How beautiful is that? How memorable is the moment that I'm living now? It really comes after. It's almost like if I was doing things for memories, not for the moment, not for the real moment, but for the memory of that moment. I do remember those two days with David, It was great. It was intense. But it was just like, okay, you know, he's asking that Christian, what do you think? David, you decide. No, no, no, we do it together. What do you think? I said, okay. But everything was kind of smooth and easy and simple or whatever.

1:15:59And then it's after looking at the picture, remembering it, that I thought, my God, I've been living in a fantastic moment with one of the most interesting persons I got to meet ever in my entire life. So, but the moment I was living it seemed like a very, very normal moment. I mean, I don't remember so many moments where I was at the moment impressed by the moment I was living. It's really after that thinking, wow, that must have been impressive to live that little Christian, don't you think? And I'm thinking, yeah, yeah, yeah, it's true. We will say what, say what? It was impressive. But I'm never impressed at the moment.

1:16:39And in the moment, I kind of leave the moment. It's really after I'm thinking, oh, my God. And it's terrible to say, but since David died, I know I will never see him again, and it makes me very sad. Just thinking of many moments with him. God, what an amazing experience. And to have those pictures and to have the evidence of that time with him.

1:17:15But also, you know, sometimes it is you would like to do something with someone and then, you know, if you work with somebody else, it's not totally in your hands, which is normal. So sometimes the result is not the fantasy that you were having of working with someone and achieving something very specific that you have in your head, but which doesn't belong to you completely. Just the way the photograph we did with David is that belonging to me fully. It's his work. It's my work on his work. It is his work photographing my work. It's different. but um but i have to say it has been a very pure moment because it's literally what i had in my head that the construction but the quality and the emotion coming out of those pictures yeah well you just recently described something where you said you weren't a leader yet we all love to be in your orbit and we love to follow you you're such a great person to lead and all for for people to follow and uh listen i think that we are living in a moment where you can perfectly understand why you do not want to be a leader there is no nothing in me which wants to make me look like a leader.

1:18:52I have very little respect for the leaders that we're having now. And the role models which is proposed to us as leaders now is pretty scary. So I think that I can give you this answer. I have no desire to become a leader. None. And it's not in my blood. I'm kind of shy. I don't want to outshine. I don't want to be so responsible for other people. And I think it's a lot of responsibility. When I was a child, I wanted to be an architect for a little while. And then I heard that a building collapsed and there were hundreds of people who died. I don't even remember where. and it stopped me the second I heard that I said I will never be an architect the idea of being responsible for the death of one person is killing any type of desire on me so imagine what means to be a leader or imagine now what it means to be a leader that's the worst thing I would like that's So in my worst nightmare, I would not want to be a leader.

1:20:13Well, instead, you're responsible for a huge amount of pleasure in the world. But I still try to be as irresponsible as what is permitted to me. Well, thank you so much, Christian, for being on Fashion Neurosis. You're one of my dearest friends. I love chatting to you. I could talk to you for days. I have a question for you, Bella. What means neurosis? Is it neurotic? Yeah, I think. I mean, to be honest, I don't entirely understand, but it means a neurotic obsession with something that doesn't necessarily make any sense. Anyway, that's my interpretation. I love the word. There's plenty of that in the fashion business.

1:21:04Well, thank you, Christian. Thank you.

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From the publisher

Christian Louboutin is a French shoe designer. His signature red sole has become synonymous with glamour and sensuality, referenced constantly in popular culture by international superstars including Beyoncé, Taylor Swift, Jennifer Lopez and Cardi B as the shoes women aspire to own. Christian Louboutin was born and raised in Paris, with his parents and three older sisters. In 2014 he discovered that his biological father was of Egyptian heritage - the result of a clandestine love affair between his mother and a young Egyptian man. This revelation recontextualized many of his formative experiences growing up, wondering why he appeared different to his blonde, fair-haired siblings.

Today, Christian Louboutin is considered to be the most famous high fashion shoe brand in the world. The word 'Loutoutin' has become an adjective - immediately denoting a classification of intense sexuality and classiness. The company has successfully branched out into men's luxury footwear, handbags, fragrances, and makeup. Christian remains at the helm of the business and its entire design process - a rarity in the fashion industry and for an empire of his size.

In this episode of Fashion Neurosis, Christian Louboutin and Bella Freud discuss the story behind his iconic red soles; the meaningfulness of his creative collaboration with David Lynch; and his ability to wake up happy.
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