Fashion Neurosis with Helena Bonham Carter

17 Dec 2025 · 1 h 11 min

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Podcast Episode Notes: Fashion Neurosis with Helena Bonham Carter

Podcast Overview Title: Fashion Neurosis with Bella Freud Description: Hosted by designer Bella Freud, this podcast explores the intersection of fashion and identity through intimate conversations with notable guests. Each episode dives into how clothing reflects personal stories, cultural themes, and societal dynamics.

Episode Details Guest: Helena Bonham Carter Episode Summary: In this episode, Bella Freud engages with actress Helena Bonham Carter, discussing topics ranging from androgynous dressing to the societal implications of fashion. The conversation explores personal anecdotes, cultural observations, and the transformative power of clothing.

Key Themes and Discussions

Introduction

  • Bella welcomes Helena Bonham Carter and initiates the conversation with what she is wearing and the context behind her outfit choice.
  • Helena reflects on her clothing selection, influenced by recent personal events and her design inspirations.

Fashion as Expression

  • Androgynous Dressing:
  • Helena shares her affinity for androgynous styles and how they relate to her experiences of self-identity.
  • They discuss societal perceptions of femininity and how they have shifted over time.
  • Fashion Labels and Influences:
  • Helena talks about her fashion line, The Pantaloonies, inspired by the need for clothing that accommodates body variations.
  • She cites Vivienne Westwood and Marie Antoinette as influential figures in her style evolution.

Body Image and Self-Perception

  • Personal Vulnerability:
  • Helena discusses her struggles with body image, using humorous anecdotes about her self-consciousness regarding her prominent features.
  • They explore the impact of societal standards on self-perception and the idea of fetishism in modern culture.
  • Cultural Reflections:
  • Both express how cultural expectations shape their views on beauty and body image, emphasizing the importance of self-acceptance.

The Artistic Process

  • Acting and Identity:
  • Helena reflects on her career, sharing insights about the joy and challenges of acting, and the emotional intensity of embodying different characters.
  • Discusses how the costumes and roles shape her identity and creativity.
  • Creative Partnership:
  • The conversation touches on her previous collaborations with Tim Burton and how creative partnerships influence personal and artistic growth.

Life Changes and Personal Growth

  • Navigating Divorce:
  • Helena candidly discusses the emotional toll of her divorce from Tim Burton and how it reshaped her friendships and self-identity.
  • She emphasizes the importance of surrounding oneself with supportive relationships during difficult times.
  • Coping Mechanisms:
  • They address how Helena channels her experiences into her artistic expressions, both in fashion and acting.

Conclusion

  • Bella and Helena conclude by reflecting on the enduring nature of fashion as a form of self-expression and armor against societal judgments. They celebrate the transformative power of clothing in navigating personal and public identities.

Key Takeaways

  • Fashion as Identity: Clothing serves not just as personal expression but also as a means of navigating complex societal roles and expectations.
  • Cultural Critique: The conversation critiques outdated beauty standards and embraces body positivity, emphasizing the importance of self-acceptance.
  • Interpersonal Relationships: Relationships, both professional and personal, significantly impact one’s self-identity and creative output.
  • Artistic Vulnerability: Both guests emphasize the need for vulnerability in achieving authentic self-expression in art and life.

Contact and Further Information

  • Website: [Fashion Neurosis](http://www.fashionneurosis.com)
  • Social Media: [Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/fashioneurosis_bellafreud)

Supported by

  • Nature Sunshine
  • Estee Lauder

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This structured summary provides a comprehensive overview of the podcast episode, highlighting key discussions and insights shared between Bella Freud and Helena Bonham Carter, while maintaining a focus on the themes of fashion, identity, and personal growth.

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Transcript

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1:33Hi, come in.

1:40Welcome to Fashion Neurosis, Helena Bonham Carter. Thanks for having me. Can you tell me what you're wearing today and why you chose these particular clothes? Well, I thought I would... It was a danger of overthinking it. Um... and actually you texted me on Monday, and I was at my cousin's funeral, and I thought, actually, these will do. And also this thing, which is a beautiful black silk thing, which I've managed to dribble makeup down, but when clean, it's potentially lovely, and it's by somebody called Claire Campbell, who used to design for High, Right. And it's been like one of my all-time favourite designers.

2:32She used to do Gerbeau and then she was High. Oh, yeah, yeah. I've definitely heard her name. She's really extraordinary. And I love what she did, particularly when she was designing for High. And it's a really clever construct. You can't really see because I'm not probably selling it in this. But it's like an old friend. You know how like some clothes, it's a reliable friend who will forgive too. Because I definitely, I go up and down, chunk, definitely have chunked up in the past year. But still, it's not one of the dresses that I, it still accommodates the chunk. And also I've decorated with a friend of mine who makes these little things.

3:17She's called Abby Walsh. And she just makes these little addendons, sparkly. and um and then this is a jacket that is yoji i think but again you can't really see it the back that it's sort of special bit is is is the back which obviously you can't see um i feel comfy in it yeah and i feel it's forgiving and then i couldn't not wear something of yours oh i love that the socks i mean if i had a different body shape i'd wear your stuff all the time and i'm not just sucking up because i'm in a position of sheer vulnerability at this point because i would but i'm just not your shape i mean i or maybe that's an insult to what you design but i just i feel like if i was more androgynous um i do have one of your shirts and I always love what you're wearing now with the bow.

4:18Yeah. And I love pink and black. Oh, good, because I was wearing white and I switched to pink. Yeah. I was trying to match you without knowing what you'd be wearing. Telepathically. I mean, pink and black, it's not a bow, a tie, but I love that look. Yeah. But I also love a lot of what you make. I love the dog, which I wanted to ask you about, of your sign. and the Hello Kunti has just served me so well. Oh, I'm so pleased. In mug form, in sock form, picture form. It tends to cover all my, like, wrap gifts. And actually, do you know, Kunti now is a really legit compliment, isn't it? It is, yeah.

5:08It's sort of evolved into one because it started, I came across it because there used to be this place, the Colony Club, that my father went to, and it was started by this old lesbian called Muriel Belcher, who referred to everyone as she. I think she started in 1949 even, and she used to call everyone, greet them, hello, Conti, and everyone was a she. and then Frances Bacon, who was her favorite, was the daughter. That was her biggest compliment. You're the daughter. Yeah. And so that's where it came from. I thought it was such a good story. And then young people sort of have taken up the word cunt as a compliment, like Alex Consani, this amazing model, and she refers to things as it's cunt.

6:11It's such a good word, isn't it? It's so good. I just love the way it's... I'm so glad that now it's a positive thing, as opposed before, in some horribly misogynistic sort of ingrained way, it was an insult. It is a good insult too. Yeah, it's a really, it's a good insult, but at the same time, the fact that it was used as an insult says something. it's like done a sort of full circle of becoming a compliment you know it's but yeah because you're a multi-award winning actress and you've appeared in both independent and blockbuster movies and age 13 you contacted a friend at school's acting agent and uh pretended you knew her and to get her blessing and the agent signed you.

7:06And an actor friend recently, a very kind of quiet, introverted person said, you have to want to live or die for this. And I wondered if that's how you experience it.

7:23It's an insane way of earning a living. And it is a gamble. you kind of have to live and sort of not really know what else to do with your life yeah it's like um it's a very odd thing because it's taken very seriously and you have to take it seriously not yourself you do have to take the job seriously because it's so over subscribed and there's so many of us out there pretending to be other people

7:59but essentially it's play you know we're just playing I mean when it's best but but to be honest after a bit a lot of the time I've been going like okay this is the last job I'm out of here and then basically I don't know what else I'd do or earn a living doing you know I don't know with lots of actors which bit do they actually enjoy and which bit is the best bit yeah that's I'd never thought of it like that but what is the best bit because there are so many layers of fraughtness or so much fear insecurity terror anxiety um I think the best bit for me one of the best bits there are quite a few best bits um is getting the job it's possibility for me always is something that's the most exciting state of like seeing the chance for many possibilities and potential and then bit by bit they sort of disappear as you end up doing it because you have to actually make choices and then you know the most depressing moment is when you actually watch the thing and you go oh oh, my God, are just still me?

9:20Or all the hope of, which is, for me, usually I basically want to escape myself and then I'm confronted with myself. So it's the same circle of like, ah, yeah, I'm going to be finally free of this envelope. And then, oh, no, it's just me again. Having said that, when it's going well and you're in the flow and you're working with somebody you trust and with people you trust and it's a whole load of people whose talent or lack of you depend on or vulnerable to. When it's going well and it's just happening, that's the state of bliss, which I guess for any artist, that's what you're always trying to attain.

10:11you know that moment when you there is no ego there's no little you know pac-man inside you going or that was shit or and something comes through you um but that must probably what's the best bit of you what you do yeah i know i know exactly what you mean and i think I love the thing you said about getting the part.

10:40And I think the critical voice is much calmer. I can sort of separate it out from it. I can stop it being such a magnet for everything else now and think, oh, yeah, there it goes. Or, you know, watch out for that and remember to be in the moment. Avoiding your unfinished home projects because you're not sure where to start? Thumbtack knows homes, so you don't have to. Don't know the difference between matte paint finish and satin? Or what that clunking sound from your dryer is? With Thumbtack, you don't have to be a home pro. You just have to hire one. You can hire top-rated pros, see price estimates, and read reviews all on the app.

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11:30Right now is the AI gold rush. And that means everybody who builds an app, a platform, a piece of software, a gizmo that somebody, anything, everybody is trying to put AI everywhere. And for two weeks in a series on the Vergecast, we are talking through what that looks like. We're talking to developers about what they're building and how they're building it and whether AI actually does make sense everywhere or is just going to ruin everything in the process. That's the AI miniseries on the Vergecast, wherever you get podcasts. This series is presented by MongoDB. But you first came into my orbit as Lucy Honeychurch in Room with a View, and you were playing opposite Daniel Day-Lewis and Julian Sands and Denham Elliott.

12:16And they're all kind of outsiders in a way, and it's part of why I find it such a wonderful film. Did playing in a different century and wearing the clothes of that time give you a canvas to inhabit and also conceal yourself within? Totally. I spent my childhood, which I guess, are we kind of the same age? 70s. Yeah, I'm older than you. But watching those, like, I wanted to be inside a television set. Really? I loved period costume dramas. There was like a particular slot on a Sunday afternoon at about 5.30 which had like an adaptation of E. Nesbitt or you know it was definitely a costume drama.

13:12E. Nesbitt, yeah. Or ballet shoes or I can't think of the ones I read or the phoenix on the carpet or the little princess or and I spent myself I was just thinking about it the other day because I went to Laura Ashley's house in Wales the other day and I thought oh my god I went to the toilet and there were all these pictures of Laura Ashley in her key and I said that that's what my fantasy of Victoriana was in the 70s but I didn't realize it actually looks more 70s than Victorian but that was what I wanted to be so when I was cast as a well she's a Dordian um it was real dress up make-believe I never felt totally comfortable in the now of whatever period I was I mean like when I was dressed yeah you know as a adolescent I was in sacks and things that I thought I was a bloomsbury I was always dressing for a different time so it I felt more comfortable basically in a corset than I felt not not literally because it was incredibly uncomfortable um and that kind of uh head to toe camouflage frankly does cover a hell of a lot and as a permission to dream really because you had quite a delayed journey entry into adulthood and your mother...

14:41I'm still coming. It's still happening, yeah. Your mother had a nervous breakdown and then your father was diagnosed with a brain tumor and an operation left him paralyzed. And you said living at home may have acted as an unconscious chastity belt and I wondered um did you imagine who would see beyond that and to be attracted to you well quite a lot of people did I mean it wasn't exactly highly functional it was a pretty loose chasity that's good I mean the screws came out um it was like but I was definitely married principally to my parents until quite a I guess until my no not until my dad died but um when I was 30 I thought I really have to move out um and that's when I very self-consciously walked up the hill and entered a estate agent and weirdly enough the place the one place I'd seen two years before when I was 28 but I still thought it was too soon um it had just come on the market again and was a hundred thousand less it was sort of fated and um it's this particular space because I'm I'm pretty particular about spaces and envelopes I mean I'm particular about clothes also particular about interior envelopes and you know how we furnish how we dress our homes so um and it's um and it was amazingly waiting for me i felt god i love you yeah um so yeah when i was 30 uh i finally moved out which apparently lately they've said well um that the brain only stops growing once you're uh 30 so you're fully adult the brain is right um when you're 30 yeah yeah i knew there was something about 25 but i know about 30 i related to you talking about dressing in a very and in an androgynous way when you were a very young woman and yeah i was talking to my shrink about that because I was thinking about why you did it and why I did it and he said he asked me if my mother had backed my femaleness as I was developing yeah as it was developing and she hadn't and I wondered if yours had I think so I think mom I mean mom uh as a role model was somebody who dressed very femininely and very exotically and was definitely an example of someone who liked dressing up and um

17:49she as far as my femaleness to be honest I mean my father was so ill um I was left very much on my own I mean she was an amazing mother and as present as she could be but a lot of it was all about my dad in my teens I guess so but I think it was more to do with the time that I was very into androgyny and as I said I was I went to Westminster which was full of boys school yeah and I remember the feeling and then even later on early 20s feeling like if I was going to be taken seriously I should dress more boyishly and have waist skirts and things and um there's a lot of sexism which i wasn't really aware um but now i am looking back on it i remember a really hilarious makeup artist amazing man but he was saying he said to me like women really there aren't many funny women he he he i remember him singling out journal only and i was going like oh really aren't there oh I'm the wrong sex to be funny or god and uh it was this horrible thing that if you were sexy you could be sexy but that was it yeah there was nothing else you couldn't be clever you can be funny it was like it would eclipse everything so it was a difficult thing to be so I didn't feel comfy being a woman yeah and I wanted somehow to be not patronized I also had this determination not to be on high heels, partially because they're crippling.

19:32But I felt humiliated by them because I felt I couldn't run. And I felt you should be able to run away. Isn't that a crazy idea? But I just felt I need to feel empowered and myself. And I don't want someone looking at my chest. I don't want to be inspected, which is a stupid instinct, given that, I mean, it's a great instinct, but then look what I've ended up doing is I've been in front of a camera for so long. So, but I know that I do everything to camouflage myself in costume and in life. It's constantly camouflaging. It's not about exposing myself. I'm not remotely interested in exposing myself.

20:17I'm very private and I want to invent myself, reinvent myself, but not reveal, which I think I'm basically in the wrong profession, you know. Because you've described liking to dress Victorian and you said, I wasn't mad on my thighs and lower half. My brother's... Still not, even less mad. You said your brother's nickname for me was PB, prominent bum. But people fetishize body parts and many fetishes are for PB, prominent bum. Yeah. And I wondered if you, did you ever find yourself noticing other people's bodies because of your own self-consciousness? All the time. I mean, I'll always meet someone.

21:02I'll go, oh, thin legs, lucky person. Yeah, yeah. Or, yeah, or, yeah, got a neck. Because I was talking to my shrink about this, this obsession with a perfect body, which I certainly had a lot of my life, and especially as a young person, this rigid self, this terrible kind of exacting way of looking at myself. And he said, where do you think you got this idea of a perfect body from? That's culture. I don't know. I think it was the 70s that somehow this thing you were talking about out of there was a way to look. Well, Barbie. I mean, we were surrounded, like, very early on, you're given. Sorry, I interrupted something.

21:52No, no, interrupt away. I never had Barbies or any of that kind of thing. Or did you have a Pippa doll? I didn't have a doll. I hated dolls. I wanted to have a doll's guillotine so I could chop their heads off. Hey, that's clever. I didn't have a doll or a doll's guillotine. So what did you have? I had Pippa dolls. I had Barbies, Cindy. I had a lot of dolls.

22:25They were these androgynous shapes with huge tits. So I thought that was it. Yeah. I definitely didn't have that. It's horrible to spend most of our lives thinking of what we don't have.

22:41And such a waste of time. ultimately but I suppose it's something to do with what you could control or trying yeah and then everyone is making a ton of money going oh you can do this with that and then and somehow with that promise of the perfect eyelash is you know a magically improved life but I find there's something quite friendly and accommodating about fetishism then that is very including of of what's supposed to be an aberration that it values it I mean yeah what you mean celebrates it yeah so what is a fetish is it making it sexualized something that you really desire I think it's, yeah, I suppose it's quite sort of specific, but people who have a love of a particular bit of a body or how a bit is or, you know, feet is a sort of famous one.

23:45But, you know, prominent bums are really popular. You know, they've become a whole thing in our culture now. Yeah, thanks to Kim. Yeah, it's really great. I like that shapeliness is in fashion even if I don't really well at that but I think it's in fashion but then again then everyone's starving themselves or hurling themselves onto you know a Zen pick and so the thin thing is still coming back and I do think there's something that's I don't know what is it what is that about I mean is it just a denial of pleasure or flesh or sexuality or whatever keeps on coming back but then flesh seems to be what when it comes down to it what people do like rather than the opposite yeah you don't want to get into go with a skeleton i mean not most of us and uh and that's where clever cutting happens yes exactly you know that's why i love claire actually because her cutting is it is transformative and westward that's why I loved her because she really celebrated the female form yeah like the proper set of boobs and whatever weight you were you knew that you were it was like wearing a building in the best of sense like she could re-engineer your whole body just by putting you in a thing and you go like I know what shape I am I think that's a it's an armor yeah you know i think we need clothes well i need clothes depending on i rely on them to change my mood in order to make me feel okay for whatever event i need to do it's like what's my interior weather like what's it what does it need and what do i feel that what what do i want to channel to make me basically have fun too it's a sense of pretend then unfortunately you might see a photo of what you thought you were projecting and it's a million miles from what you were hoping um but it doesn't matter i agree because now i think there's bad photos too and that isn't necessarily how you did look on that night it's and i I, that's.

26:06You can't capture, I mean, I know enough about, it's actually right, there's bad photos. A photo is just one tiny second, and it's an amalgamation of the light of the, of so many different things. But when one is truly animated, well, just in real life, like you and me, you know, that is a totally different thing. And that's the definition of a great photographer, going like, yes, you caught that person, or painter. You caught them in stillness. What's the best compliment you've ever been given? It's funny, I saw that and I just thought, I can't remember. And then I thought, oh, that's typical, is that I'm very good at remembering all the bad reviews and all the criticisms.

26:53And my brother said the other day, I think, was it Churchill? Or somebody said that it was somebody else, that it's like failure is like it couldn't have been churchill because velcro didn't exist i don't think success is like oil and failure is like velcro and so like any criticism will just like encrypt itself into your you know stick um whereas any success just you i just go i just don't probably listen, I suppose. So I've no idea. But do you feel it, is there anything that someone said to you that has kind of resonated that you've thought, oh, you noticed that, you know that it sort of reverberates somewhere or other?

27:45A director I've just worked with, he said that there was something about me being very careful. That doesn't really... That doesn't sound like a problem. When you're avoiding it, there must be something.

28:01I met a priest at the funeral on the Monday and he said, you give so much heart. And I thought, yeah, I do that. I don't think, I mean, I do try and I do give of myself. It might not be a fortunate outcome, but I definitely give. whatever I'm doing, wherever I give of, I am, you know, I try awfully hard and I do poor myself and I have an open heart pretty much. So, and I genuinely love people. So I suppose that, that was a compliment that I thought, yeah, no, I won't dispute that. I have heart. Yeah. Yeah, it's interesting. I find things come in and then they just stop against a window pane. But I don't, at least they're there splattered up against the window.

29:01I think, maybe I can, maybe later, you know, but it's nice to get them anyway. But what stops you from opening the window and going, okay, I accept that? It's some sort of notion of I will forget how to discriminate about what's true or false. I mean, it's like old ancient history. And I know it's a nice thing and I want that, but it's just an old habit of worrying that somehow, you know, get above myself and lose my way of judging things. Yeah, an inflated head. And you don't want to get above yourself. But were your mom and dad at all, were they complementary and supportive? My mother, I think she sort of forgot to tell me the ordinary things about like looking nice or pretty or anything.

30:15Don't remember her saying things like that. And she did, she occasionally would say the opposite, and uh which of course I never forgot and um my father didn't my father was very he didn't say much but he implied that he thought highly of me or well of me or he would notice what I wore and like what I was wearing I remember when I went to sit for him for the first time I was wearing this dress that I brought in a you know in a market or something and he said oh I like that and then that was what I wore for the painting and then we did another painting with that dress so that even that was um there was a feeling of approval of what I was wearing and and that was really I really appreciated it and treasured it and did he rate clothing did he yeah he did um he had his suits made and I remember asking him about it once and he said well I used to sort of try out different things like I had a jacket made with no vent at the back and sort of bivvy style things and then he he sort of dressed he found a way that he liked to dress and he he always looked cool though so he found his sort of uniform yes yeah he had he had really good style it was wonderful he used to wear gray flannel suits as well in the evening to go out and he looked fantastic.

32:07And then he never wore a tie because I don't think he liked the feeling of the constraint. So he'd wear a silk scarf. He'd buy these silk scarves in the market. Then we'd all look out for them. And you can't get them anymore. I think we got them all for him.

32:27But you said Meryl Streep once told you something you've never forgotten, which is the costume speaks before you do. That's so intelligent as all the clues are there. And do you think about that in your daily life? No. In my daily life, when I wake up and when I'm dressing myself. Think of what do you want to impart? Oh, yeah. No. I don't think about what I want to impart. But I might feel like, what do I need to make me feel better inside? or what will make me feel more together, frankly, or capable of functioning.

33:12Definitely match the envelope with, oh, this will make me feel grounded or I feel this or that. And it changes, obviously, because we're forever changing. And then having said that, there's the reality of time. And often we're the same thing for days. and but like when it comes to packing for the holiday for a holiday yeah or any trip away that is a nightmare because I have to I find myself packing there's nothing capsule about it there's nothing like I have to find different gears I have to make different outfits and of course I'm inventing this person who will change three times a day I mean there's no way that I'll ever wear what I pack ever and you'd think by now I'd learn but so I have to complete like a get-up for each not each day but I'll take a lot of get-ups yeah for different um looks but I'm not I wish sometimes that I was like the jeans kind of person that I I had jean legs and I could just have three legs, three legs, three pairs of jeans, two shirts.

34:30You know, I've never been like that. Like who packs like that, you know? Yeah. But that's like somebody who's just got a different body and different psyche to me. Such a thing, isn't it? Because I've never been able to pack in that succinct way or hand luggage, forget it. Forget it. If it's a weekend, I still like a nice, huge suitcase. Because even though I know I won't wear it, I need to have it there. And I think, well, maybe I might wear it. And that's enough for it to go in. And now I just accept that. And it's so relaxing. I had a phobia about packing for years and years. It's so stressful.

35:15It'll take days and days. and then I'd still forget some whole category like pants. Yeah, or hair stuff. Or the crucial thing like the toothbrush or the contact lenses when I wore them. Yeah. But instead I'd have some varieties of little, you know, cardigan sort of typey things. Do you ever pack anything to wear that you think people will expect to see you in? because you have such a strong look and you do cross, you know, eras. You do it in a very modern way and I wondered. Oh, thanks, Bella. Yeah, you're really good at it. I don't think I ever pack to do anything to be expected. If anything, I think, oh, I want to always, I never think about what people expect, to be honest.

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36:07It's like all, it's quite a selfish impulse. and also I do think part of my you know in my head my negatives are always I've become such a cliche I do think like oh god you look and I always think I'm transforming myself and get like no you're basically the same sort of silhouette or the same um and I've got too much on usually um my ex used to say Tim used to say most people take was it Coco Chanel so like take something off before you leave oh really yeah which is quite a clever thing yeah but he says don't take one thing off with you you've got to take seven things off and it's true it's just way too much and I think I love decoration and it's fun and I also know it's gonna be it's like playing in toys with old women particularly I always get that where they you know it's fun yeah so like today I suddenly thought why am I thinking I thought well Bella might like it is this like pearl frame you know a pearl it's from frame um but you know to hold my glasses the pearls because I always think the pearls it's quite a nice thing to have um well one it's around your neck so you don't lose your glasses but also when you you got them on you've got this like pearl frame that actually is very flattering.

37:35I mean, I can't... Well, Coco Chanel said, pearls throw a light on a woman's face and a woman should always have a string of pearls. I actually have got one because of reading that from way back. Well, I'll show you when I get vertical later. What about that? I wanted to ask you about your label, Pantaloonies, which is something I really love. And I wondered how you came about doing that because I was going to ask you if you think somehow hang-ups and insecurities about our bodies make us come up with a good look. Oh, I think it's like the mother of invention, isn't it? It's not necessity, it's hang-ups or the insecurities of the mother of invention.

38:30Totally. I mean, with the pantalonies, there were two strands to it. One was, were bloomers, basically. And I always thought, although now, hello, they're in. But 20 years ago, I said, why can't I get any bloomers? I could only get vintage bloomers. And they were all about, you know, disguising chunky thighs and bums. And like Frida Kahlo, I think she invented her whole costume, her whole look because of, you know, her disability. And Lulu Guinness, she said she was never a jeans-leggy person, so she went 50s. So I think a lot of people's eccentricity or art in how they dress and present themselves to the world is usually to cover up something.

39:22It's a camouflage, you know. um my mom has sort of always gone sort of as she she got older she obviously loves loved food so she sort of became but her shape was like more of a tent you know and now guess what I'm becoming I've got these tent clothes now and go like oh this is what happens and how do you feel about nudity are there things you like to wear to feel naked or can you naked or sexy well they're I suppose it depends how do you, when you're naked, do you feel, I find I have to wear something to feel naked. Otherwise, I've just got nothing on. Well, isn't that the point of being naked?

40:12Are you telling me that in the shower you wear some shoes? No. You wear a jacket. I hadn't thought of that. but it would be very sexy as soon as you put something on and you're naked yeah it becomes more sexy but I wondered how you are about being naked I mean different bits of my life I um I'm not feeling I don't feel great when I'm naked not lately uh and I did a scene in a thing for Steve mcqueen it was amazing director yeah he's wonderful and i did a whole scene it was it was a pilot it never got shown but it was about a 15 minute scene naked with an apron and some i had some really good and a miller meister clocks um and i was entirely naked but i wasn't naked because i was covered in makeup which I will say is a makes you it it's a bit of an armor but I was definitely naked yeah and I had a perfume I do think perfumes can add you do wear that is part of the outfit yeah definitely a mood changer and gives you an armor or creates an atmosphere When I was younger, I didn't mind so much being naked.

41:45But it's not a great look now.

41:50On the opposite, I'm really, I would never be naked. Now I might, you know. Well done, woman. I know. I'm going the wrong way around, but at least it's happening. I'm quite pleased about it. I know that wrong way around thing. And I've gone the wrong way around about lots of things, but not about being naked. And I loved you as Princess Margaret in The Crown. You reminded us all of how attractive she had been. And I met her once when I was 17. I went to Mustique. I was sort of supposed to be doing a job there. What's the job? You're doing a Mustique? I was taking people on horse riding. I went I was sort of sent anyway it was horse riding yeah so I was supposed to be looking after the horses and um and she was there she because it belonged to Colin Tennant and who was a friend of my dad's and and then so I remember going to a cocktail party at her house and she was very remote and roddy llewellyn was extremely friendly and you said you met her through a psychic and uh you were consulting about something else and she pushed her way in and i wondered what she'd said yeah i mean i did actually meet her not via the psychic i mean in real in real life but there was a funny um and she was very remote in fact she was remote and quite I met her a couple of times because she um she told me actually it was at Windsor you know when the place burnt down and then they had a thing where they invited people to see the new hall I guess yeah and she I remember meeting her there and she was saying she said oh you are getting better aren't you and I was kind of like oh god and then I think that's quite funny because I just thought well I'm glad I'm getting better because I ended up playing her so um but then the psychic bit was yeah I was seeing someone I'm interested in all that and um this particular medium person who's I was asking about something else which I don't necessarily take wholeheart but I like just trying anything it's an adventure and I definitely feel that some people have gifted with another sense um but it was so remarkable what this she said i feel there's this woman does it make any sense she had no idea what was about to do what my job was and she's in full regalia it's she's a royal i was like geez and she the thing the bit of advice not that i remember everything but the one thing that i remember thinking that she said don't underestimate the power the cigarette and holder as a form of expression gosh which actually I thought that's a really good note and I knew that in my sort of exploring about Margaret she it was very you know she wasn't very tall she was tiny and I think Nikki Haslam said that was what she minded she didn't mind about being you know her younger sister and the heir but she did mind about being so tiny and that her great granny had or her granny had said something about her really early on when she was a child about being so short um so she did everything to elongate her and so and if you're royal you know you you're really your job is to be seen so she was very good at posing and and that the you know the cigarette holder and that wouldn't be an extra line she was also knew about dancers you know so creating lines in that's so interesting that definitely helped so I thought that is actually a great um note god that's brilliant isn't it how I love the idea of her zooming into your you know your well she elbowed her way through because I wasn't actually consulting about I do think strangely in a way you kind of want to put If you're playing someone who actually existed and is no longer with us, you kind of want them on side.

46:27And you know you want to feel that you've got a responsibility and also that they wouldn't mind. It's like writing someone's biography. You're like, it's a tricky one morally. It's a good idea there because you've also checked out potential partners' handwriting with a graphologist. And I wondered what shone out about your boyfriend's handwriting and what your own handwriting reveals to you, if there's anything that immediately occurred to you that you hadn't thought of from doing that. Well, the graphologist who I consult is my aunt, who is 95 and lives in New York and is an amazing woman and unbelievably astute as a graphologist.

47:21And over the years, she's pointed things out to me. I mean, of course, no one in our family writes to her anymore. Unfortunately, because it's like we don't want to have an X-ray, you know, an MRI, as it were, psychological MRI, as someone said earlier. and no one writes anyway sadly I mean I do love handwriting it's something that I actively enjoy doing myself and I remember Renata saying years ago oh you're getting much more confident and I had no idea gosh and I had lots of different kinds of handwriting and it doesn't matter she still can detect what's going on in you yeah and there's some amazing things she can tell to do is it's quite complex um i gave my boyfriend but i she didn't she looked at it for a second and said actually i don't want to look she likes loves him anyway so she just said let's not even go that so maybe there's a question mark with that handwriting anyway god that's fascinating it is fascinating so it's like a real So whenever I play someone who's real, who's existed, I will tend to, there's two witches.

48:36There's Renata, who's my graphologist aunt. So I'll give her the handwriting. So she gave that. She looked at Margaret's handwriting, but throughout her life. And the Queen Moms. And Elizabeth Taylor. Gosh. And I've got a whole archive of real people. and then also I go to this amazing astrologer called Darby Costello who's like you do an hour and a half with her and um because with each I'm pretty anal with research you know rather than right reading the biography which I'll read anyway yeah you'll have three inches of biography William Shawcross on the queen on the queen mother and you go to Darby within an hour you've got like like 50-minute, you know, it's just concentrated essence of person there on a plate.

49:31And that's fascinating. Yeah, that's such a brilliant idea. And sometimes you can gather all these, and then you see, then you cross-reference, and then you go like, okay, the common thing that everyone goes, because I find it's helpful to boil down the essence before in trying to, you know, explore someone, like getting to a source. Yeah. and if you gather all these different things and then and then you've got the real ingrate you go like that's the pith or that's the thing is that where you start from when you get that sense and then you build outwards from there i have a sort of collection i've got a sort of um extremely extremely probably over anal obsessive compulsive way of going in search of somebody which is what I get off on I guess it's possibility as my ex said you're not writing a flipping biography it's like I said well in a way I am I'm wearing it on the inside and um well that's why you're so good well I don't know you are you're really good it's that you always just every time you're in a part this it's exciting because it feels like there's something to find out and I know that's the same in every film but you really do bring that your characters and it's one why you're so popular and everyone loves your work and you.

51:06This is my compliment. Yeah I'm very good at paying them. I love paying compliments even though. I like paying compliments too. Raise the runners. Raise the sails. Raise the sails. Captain an unidentified ship is approaching. Over. Roger. Wait is that an enterprise sales solution? Reach sales professionals not professional sailors. With LinkedIn ads, you can target the right people by industry, job title, and more. Start converting your B2B audience today. Spend$250 on your first campaign and get a free$250 credit for the next one. Get started today at linkedin.com slash campaign. Terms and conditions apply.

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52:18You spoke very eloquently after your divorce with Tim Burton about, you said, with divorce you go through massive grief and it's a death of a relationship so utterly bewildering and your identity everything changes and in your case you had a creative partnership as well as a romantic and I I wondered when you emerged from from that did you find you were different in your friendships that's an interesting question what do you mean by different in my friendships or Well, having gone through such a kind of huge thing, whether you treated your friendships differently or you kind of noticed that you wanted something different and gave something different or whether that affected them.

53:18That's an interesting question. I hadn't really thought of that. I mean, I think I was incredibly grateful for my friendships. I think maybe my appreciation of them got bigger because they survived and supported me through this huge sea change. Also, very much so for my children, because that's the... You rely on your... I think when you go through a divorce, well, I did anyway, you rely on your other people around you to help carry the family. I felt I had to almost hitchhike on other people's families too while I was, you know, feeling like mine was falling apart. And a divorce is truly, in a family that's close to ours, is transformative to everybody.

54:14Having said that, if you don't fit each other, it takes a lot of bravery but it's better to move yeah then stop each other from growing i really believe that too yeah i mean we're not meant to be forever and i i've never actually gotten married because i can't say those i can't make i can't honestly make that promise because i just don't think it's a healthy one so you were never actually married no interesting yeah no not interested quite apart from also you know i've got adhd so the idea of organizing i mean it would be both be a great thing but i'd be so flipping obsessive about every single choice and you know it'd be just like oh my god because people are quite obsessed with what you wear and as if your clothes are a kind of code they're trying to crack.

55:14Sorry, I'm having some caffeine. Yeah. And you're quite tantalizing with what you choose to reveal or hide. And I know you're a private person, but you enjoy some of the playing. Honestly, Bella, I'm not even aware of playing or what I'm revealing or not. I'm the, there's only one way of surviving being in this business of, is don't ever engage or look at what your online it's only online now but it used to be in the press whatever that identity is yeah it's like that is a different it's an entity out there and it will it's the sum total of what people want you to be but it might have very little to do with oneself um otherwise there lies madness if you go like oh i could just you know this is what you know whatever um as long as I have continued to just not give a fuck, frankly.

56:17That is the important bit of playing. And as we all know, if you're trying to create something, you've got to not give a fuck. Because you can get tied up with, oh, this isn't good enough, or that isn't good enough, or whatever. And it's like, oh, let it all go. And in that moment when there's a real failure, then things can happen it reminded me of a thing i remember once with mom who i have learned a shed load of but we were on holiday when we were kids and she was wearing this white silk you know blouse and we're eating spaghetti and we got a bit of bolognese on it and then she said it doesn't matter why don't we put more and we ended up flicking bolognese so it was spotted with bolognese and it was just like that's it and then I love this phrase that I read which is if you stumble make it part of the dance and that's it just like oh what does it matter in the end and I loved just flicking it was so fun me and my brothers were just flicking um bolognese all over mom's silk so it was sort of dotty which I mean she's always like rocks the spots and dots.

57:33That is genius. And if you fancy someone don't like something they're wearing, does it kill your attraction? No, I think if I fancy someone, it's going to be about an energetic set, you know, the sexiness doesn't begin with what they're wearing. It's more to do with what they're wearing on the inside, isn't it? It's like the energy. Does it with you? Well, as you're saying that, I'm thinking, what if their energy's manifesting in this hideous garment? Then you don't fancy them. Whatever they're wearing, it's going to be, you can't change what they look like. I mean, you know, it might be more to do with, do I need to have a relationship with that person?

58:20Or do I need to, you know, that would be like a no. But, you know, I don't think it's going to stop you fancying. I suppose it's if... It can be off-putting. There's bad clothes and there's clothes that indicate something that you're pretending not to notice. Oh, yeah. I mean, I've got somebody who's completely narcissistic, incredibly sexy, but just like... But, no, I mean, it is, I don't think it would stop me. Yeah, it tells you a lot about the person, but it wouldn't stop me wanting to, you know, if you fancy them, you're going to fancy them. Yeah. You might be off-put that you might go like, no, I don't want to, like, it would be the same as them saying something really crass.

59:17Well, that would be just dreadful. The clairs of fun. Or good morning. Yeah. Yeah. Good morning. No, good warning. Good morning. No, it's goodbye. And your character, Bellatrix Lestrange in Harry Potter, it's like your innocent ingenue side revealing a dark side. Because even when you were playing the drug-addicted doctor in Miami Vice, you were just so pure. I was not exactly well cast, put it that way. It was so sweet and matter of fact. And who were you channeling to be the feared and adored role that's so popular? Bellatrix. I remember thinking like, oh, she's a real sociopath. How am I going to do this?

1:00:08I'm not a natural sociopath, luckily. I think I remember thinking of little boys when they get rid of insects and they get really like, it's that sort of, they're pre-social. You know, they're about age three or four and they really love exterminating insects. It's that sort of prime. I just thought she's not grown up. She's very arrested. That's so interesting. And I also thought, and I kind of know that with kids, they like watching other kids. And if you're playing a baddie, if they are childish, they enjoy that. Yeah. so and i've got a natural you know i like being being young for me is very easy inside um and my granny was like that and my mom we've all got a healthy inner child it's so healthy it's more outer than anything there's nothing in her about it so it's permission to play you know so yeah yeah but then over it now I'm having like an unlikely and I seem to remember I was trying to justify why Bellatrix would have gone to the dark side and I think but I don't think it's really worth taking seriously but I think I made a link to Unity Metford it's partially because my cousin was buried who wrote a biography of her this this week david price jones but he'd written a biography and i thought if you're one of many sisters there is something about how a need to distinguish yourself particularly if you're not the brightest if you're not the most beautiful how do you make yourself outstanding in a family of so many sisters.

1:02:08And that maybe it was that. It's like, I'm going to define myself by going off and becoming, you know, Hitler's mistress. Yeah. And that need to be adored by all of a leader. You know, it's a lack of confidence. Most people know American Express for their iconic personal cards. Some know them for business cards to help entrepreneurs grow. But American Express also offers something built for companies at scale. The American Express Corporate Program. With the corporate program, you can apply for employee cards tailored to their needs, issue virtual cards to your team and suppliers, and even automate accounts payable with American Express 1AP.

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1:03:51One of the things I loved so much, one of your very short film that you made, the Prada film for the therapy directed by Roman Polanski with Sir Ben Kingsley, who plays a Freudian analyst. And while you're chatting away about your daddy issue on the sofa, he spies your coat, your fur coat on the hanger and becomes ecstatically transfixed by it. it's just a masterpiece and i how did you come to play how did you get that role how did i get that role i mean it's always the best ones you just get offered i mean i just it was a bit of a no-brainer polanski said would you play this part so i was so excited because i had all the lines and i was with tim at the time we went to paris and stayed at the ritz it was a really fun weekend and he knew polanski in fact polanski was around when we were first getting together yeah and um and he just took one look i took ages because there's a hell of a lot of lines you know weeks to learn it and he looked at it just the night before and he said oh it's going to be on ben's face i said and true it was me blabbing on the background he said you're fine it's going to be on ben's face so ben and and the and the coat because it's a commercial for Prada.

1:05:10Yeah. But it was fun to do. I was Polanski. I mean, you had the whole of his team. I mean, you had the music writer, the set designer who I met once. I'm trying to remember his name. He was a complete genius. Everyone was a genius. And God, it was just... And it was a one-day job. how that's a no-brainer yeah it's like it's so good oh it's just I regularly watch it it's just one of the great pieces it's so good and um and you come from a long line of liberal politicians aristocratic liberal politicians and your great-grandfather was Asquith, the Prime Minister of Britain in the early 20th century.

1:06:04And in your new series, The Seven Dials, the Agatha Christie, you play Lady Catrum, who's quite a complex figure. And I wondered if there was someone in your family that you were thinking about and how did you develop power of kinks she was pretty well drawn chris chibnall wrote her um and it's she was very precisely drawn actually no there was more to it first of all what's interesting about this is that it's not it's adapted from agatha christie seven dials but my character didn't doesn't actually exist in the in the novel oh really no so what is clever about what chris did is well one it's great because people could read the book and go like oh no he did it because it's different the essence of it is in the in the adaptation um but he made in the original novel it was lord cater and made it made a woman and in fact it's much more interesting with bundle who's the lead i'm her mum and it's so it's a mother-daughter relationship and then added to which i got obsessed with agatha christie when i was um before i was doing this and watched lucy worsley's um series and biography and she's really fascinating and i think a great um woman in herself and i sort of felt that chris had not necessarily consciously but put a lot of Agatha Christie in the character yeah in Lady Catrum and a lot about grief um and the impact of grief and Lady Catrum lost her son in the Somme Yeah.

1:08:00So 10 years before the story takes place. And she's lost her husband in the Spanish flu. So in a way with her, she's completely governed by the people who are absent, like her son, her husband. And it's more about the fact that she's stuck in 1915. she's not moved on it's a sort of Havisham yeah stopped and she's not mourned or she's not gotten over their loss and I think it was only when I was doing it that I thought oh my god of course I had to bury my son there's a flashback and then I did think of the fact that my great uncle did die at the Somme after whom my father was named Raymond after whom my son is named and it was like a strange feeling as I went into the chapel to bear it to this young man was playing the corpse actually was on his phone can you believe it like everyone was on their phone even the corpse was on the phone it was like I was going oh god I'm getting a right right like why is everyone on the phone there's no chat anymore anyway he was texting in his coffin and i thought but at the same time i had this ah my ancestral baggage here is here because it's raymond raymond asquith of course he died in the soul and there was a lot of no recovery in the family from his death yeah you You know, so I don't know.

1:09:43You can analyze and you can also, but it's kind of, sometimes you find yourself doing things, you don't quite know why, and then halfway through you go, well, of course I'm doing it because of da, da, da, da, da, you know, and it all makes sense. And I do think we carry our ancestors. Yeah. And where we've come from. And they're only just here. and they seem to appear at strange times i mean i don't really think about it but then suddenly someone who never think about seems to be influencing something or other i mean it sounds a bit far-fetched but why not it's not far-fetched and it's our privilege also makes us less lonely yeah it's a really and less alone good reminder yeah and that while we're here the bodies are here they can come through and even if it's just in the fact that we've been handed this package of DNA there's certain things that we can do here while we're here yeah that's so important isn't it well thank you so much Helena Bonham Carter for being on Fashion Neurosis it's so fun really fun I can have a snooze

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From the publisher

Helena Bonham Carter is an English actress. Known for her portrayals of interesting, singular women, she rose to fame playing Lucy Honeychurch in A Room with a View in 1985, and the titular character in Lady Jane in 1986. In 1999, Bonham Carter broke free of her “English rose” reputation by playing femme fatale Marla Singer in Fight Club. She portrayed the malevolent witch Bellatrix Lestrange in the Harry Potter franchise, and more recently played Princess Margaret in The Crown, for which she was nominated for several awards. Helena will star in a new adaptation of Agatha Christie’s Seven Dials for Netflix in January 2026.

Helena Bonham Carter has two children with the director Tim Burton. They met in 2001 on the set of Planet of the Apes, and the couple went on to collaborate on seven films including Corpse Bride and Alice in Wonderland, until their separation in 2014.

Known for her love of bloomers, long skirts and Victorian style, Bonham Carter launched her fashion line The Pantaloonies in 2006. She has starred in campaigns for Marc Jacobs and Prada, and cited Vivienne Westwood and Marie Antoinette as her style inspirations.

Bonham Carter has been the recipient of a BAFTA Award, a Critics' Choice Movie Award, an International Emmy Award and three Screen Actors Guild Awards, as well as receiving nominations for two Academy Awards, nine Golden Globe Awards and five Primetime Emmy Awards. She was made a CBE in the 2012 New Year Honours list for services to drama.

In this episode of Fashion Neurosis, Bella Freud and Helena Bonham Carter discuss androgynous dressing, prominent bums, and the word Cunt being the new compliment.

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