842. - Pamela Hanson

10 Sep 2025 · 1 h 17 min · 38 chapters

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In short

Pamela Hanson, a legendary fashion/beauty photographer, discusses her new Rizzoli book The 90s, her approach to photographing (especially the “female gaze”), and how she built her career from early assisting to long-term archive work. The hosts also trade travel/Italy driving stories, plus festival and sponsor segments.

Guest backgrounds

Pamela Hanson is a long-time NYC/Hamptons-based photographer who has continuously shot work for decades (not a retrospective). She grew up speaking French in Switzerland and assisted photographer Arthur Algort in early 1980s Paris, including driving him and helping on shoots.

Key claims

She says photography is “99% lighting” in practice, but the real point of view comes from understanding the subject, not just fixing things in post. She emphasizes intimacy and honesty over heavily manufactured imagery. She avoids retouching in her workflow; labs and negatives were strong, and only one model requested minor retouching (Naomi Campbell is strongly implied).

Notable examples

Her 1984 French TV bra/lingerie commercial shot in an apartment; her early work for magazines (including “square” front-of-magazine images); and the book’s release process (scanning archives, obtaining model releases, taking years of editing).

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

Tap a time to open that second in VO

Driving in Italy: Car Rentals and Upselling

0:45 to 2:25

The hosts share their experiences with rental cars in Italy, including upselling and driving habits.

“I'm having espresso, and I'm befriending all of the wealthy retired adults who are staying at this hotel.”

Driving Culture and Highway Experiences

2:25 to 6:10

Discussion about the unique driving culture in Italy and experiences on the highways.

“Obviously, we're not going to do that now, I don't think.”

Festival Announcement: Levitation Festival

6:10 to 7:10

Hosts announce the Levitation Festival and their participation in live podcast interviews.

“lights are meant to illuminate your journey at night and when you're misusing them in a passive-aggressive way, that frustrates me where the horn only has one purpose and that's get out of my way.”

Reflections on Recent Events and Performances

7:10 to 9:20

Discussion about recent events, performances, and their experiences at various parties.

“Yeah, and whereas if you are working on a new moonshine or a brisket recipe at the house and you want me to come over, that's a me thing.”

Introducing Guest Pamela Hanson

9:20 to 14:00

Hosts introduce Pamela Hanson, a photographer with a new book about the 90s.

“So it's packed because they just sell tickets.”

Water Skiing Discussion

14:00 to 14:37

The hosts chat about water skiing and related activities.

“As it pertains to the sport and activity of water skiing.”

Introducing Guest Pamela Hanson

14:37 to 15:13

Hosts introduce Pamela Hanson, a photographer with a new book about the 90s.

“But I think it's time to get a clearer answer on what the real culprit is.”

Introducing Guest Pamela Hanson

15:17 to 16:14

Hosts introduce Pamela Hanson, a photographer with a new book about the 90s.

“It's a mystery little factory where all the good and bad stuff in our body is happening and being controlled.”

Introducing Guest Pamela Hanson

16:23 to 17:29

Hosts introduce Pamela Hanson, a photographer with a new book about the 90s.

“And I'm kind of sick of feeling sluggish.”

Introducing Guest Pamela Hanson

17:35 to 17:48

Hosts introduce Pamela Hanson, a photographer with a new book about the 90s.

“that's howlonggoneatim8health.com slash howlong code howlongatim8health.com slash howlong.”
Show all 38 chapters

Food Experiences in Italy

17:48 to 19:06

The hosts discuss unique food experiences and culinary adventures.

“This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.”

Discussion on Modena and Dining

19:06 to 20:30

Conversation about a restaurant in Modena and its unique dishes.

“But Chris and I are going out to a wedding in Sicily this weekend.”

Pamela's Photography Background

20:30 to 21:44

The hosts talk about Pamela's work and her photography style.

“The American, she bagged her a rich Italian guy.”

Impact of Reading on IQ

21:44 to 23:18

A discussion on reading habits and their effects on intelligence.

“I obviously know who you are, but I only really know you through your photographical work.”

Podcast and Learning

23:18 to 24:44

Exploring the learning potential of podcasts and audio content.

Archiving and Photography

24:44 to 26:12

Insights into the archiving process and its significance in photography.

The Future of AI in Photography

26:12 to 28:00

Discussion about AI's role in archiving and photography jobs.

“I don't see how that could actually happen.”

The Role of an Assistant in Photography

28:00 to 29:10

Discusses the experiences and perspectives of being a photography assistant.

“Do you become an assistant without wanting to become a photographer?”

Understanding Lighting in Photography

29:10 to 30:40

Explores the importance of lighting and personal connection in photography.

“I think the light's really important, but I think you have to see the light as a photographer.”

Pamela's Journey into Photography

30:40 to 34:10

Pamela shares her background and experiences leading to her photography career.

“They're like, yeah, I have this great idea, and we're going to put a light here and a light that out.”

Life in Geneva and Its Influence

34:10 to 37:50

Discussion about growing up in Geneva and the beauty of the region.

“That's more than most Coloradians possess, I would say.”

The Evolution of Fashion Photography

37:50 to 39:40

Examines the shift in fashion photography and the role of female photographers.

“And the cows are really clean and the water is really blue.”

Honesty and Intimacy in Photography

39:40 to 42:01

Discussions on the importance of capturing intimacy and authenticity in photography.

“In my mind, in my mind, you know, if I'm going to put on my Don Draper hat, you know, it's, it's from nipple up.”

The Intimacy of Photography

42:01 to 45:26

Explore the evolution of photography and the importance of authentic representation.

“And you still have your home too, so you're doing pretty good.”

Respecting Models' Images

45:26 to 48:58

Discuss the process of obtaining model releases and the respect for their image rights.

“I guess I just mean it feels like it comes from you.”

The Evolution of Fashion Photography

48:58 to 52:12

Analyze how fashion photography has changed from the 90s to today, including the impact of social media.

“I think about it the most when it relates to like when we would leave school, it was over for the day.”

The Changing Landscape of Photography

52:12 to 55:42

Investigate how modern photographers are influenced by past styles and the challenges of originality.

“She goes, Yeah, when they told me that I was too big for the fashion show, I was like, that's it.”

Navigating the New Photography World

55:42 to 56:00

Evaluate the challenges and opportunities faced by contemporary photographers in a digital age.

The Impact of Accessibility on Creativity

56:00 to 57:25

Explore how the abundance of visual content affects photographers' originality.

“And that's like how you develop what you like.”

Water Skiing and Cigarette Memories

57:25 to 59:48

Pamela shares her love for water skiing and memories related to smoking.

“I also wanted to talk to you about water skiing.”

The Joys and Challenges of Water Skiing

59:48 to 1:02:06

Delve into the fun and risks involved in water skiing experiences.

“No, I was a big downhiller because obviously growing up in Switzerland, that's what we did year round.”

The Art of Long Lunching

1:02:06 to 1:04:36

Discuss the keys to enjoying long, leisurely lunches and meaningful conversations.

“I'm just saying I feel like that's something I also like it, but I get anxious if I'm there too long because I'm often with someone who really has nothing to do.”

Insights from a Shoot with Woody Allen

1:04:36 to 1:10:01

Pamela shares her experience of photographing Woody Allen and insights on inspiration.

“So I was shooting, get this, Woody Allen, a portrait of Woody Allen for Marfa Magazine.”

Modeling and Personal Preferences

1:10:01 to 1:11:00

The hosts discuss personal views on modeling and the implications of self-image.

Upcoming Awards and Events

1:11:01 to 1:11:58

Pamela shares her upcoming Lifetime Achievement Award and other events.

“you tonight yes great yes it's tonight and then what what else are you doing for the are you doing some other stuff?”

Health Retreat Experiences

1:11:59 to 1:13:09

Pamela discusses her experiences at a health retreat in Austria and what to expect.

“How snatched did you feel when you left?”

Diet and Lifestyle Changes

1:13:10 to 1:14:18

The conversation shifts to diet restrictions and lifestyle changes at the retreat.

“Oh, is that what you're writing about it?”

Personal Insights and Reflections

1:14:19 to 1:16:19

Pamela shares her thoughts on the retreat experience and personal health management.

“brain is operating in a way that it normally doesn't.”
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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00Thank you.

0:30an undisclosed location deep in the bowels of Italy. Is that correct? Bowels.

0:38Jason Stewart:In the bowels. Yeah, I'm in the bowels now. I'm hanging out in Moldena. We just skipped over here from Milano in the rental car. I'm having espresso, and I'm befriending all of the wealthy retired adults who are staying at this hotel. Well, that's because it's prime work time as far as seasonality goes. You know what I mean? So the only people that can really afford to kind of kick back at the hotel are retirees and podcasters. So I hope you run into some of our peers there. Well, I think Italy, it's all about seasonality. If you ask me, the figs are coming in beautifully. Oh, I didn't even think about that.

1:20Jason Stewart:Watermelon season is kicking in big time right now. Melon d 'agua, as they say, as the locals might say. I prefer when you say rental car because it just sounds a little more funny. I visited the Seekst. Yeah, and I hope you're sitting down. They tried to upsell me to a BMW instead of the Citroen. Did you do it? Oh, yeah. I got the X Uno. I was going to say, I unfortunately am susceptible to upselling in those situations, unless it's truly astronomical, the difference. Yeah, I mean, I'll upsell the car to a BMW. You will never upsell me on the insurance plan. Oh, hell no. No, if you get insurance from a rental car place, you're a fool.

2:08That's on you. Yeah, that's on. I would never do that.

2:11Jason Stewart:To quote Joe Budden Podcast, I ain't going to hold you if you were the type of person who would get insurance on your rental car. I do remember back in the day, though, there would be some kind of hardcore kid shenanigans. You would get the full insurance and then just destroy the car. Sure. And there's nothing they could do. Obviously, we're not going to do that now, I don't think. Yeah. With what I'm putting in my body in terms of drugs and alcohol, I do not want to be caught whipping donuts on the piazza or anything like that. I don't want to do international time. Pulling the e-brake and the Citroën and doing some donuts does sound nice, I have to say.

2:49Is this car going to take you to – are you driving this to where I'm meeting you?

2:54Jason Stewart:I'm driving it across the water to Sicily. That's right, Chris. Okay, great. No, no, no. Oh, you're not. Oh, I thought maybe you could take a boat. I thought maybe you could take like a ferry or something. No, I would love to ferry, but no, we're going to fly there from Bologna, I think. and then um yeah we we fly in from bologna to sicily to to palermo where i'm going to rent another car are you where you that's where i'll be driving you can you just just i just if you don't mind you can drive manual right if you don't mind upgrading when it's when it's going to be me i just want to put that out there before you kind of have before six offers you the opportunity i'll give you the four-door peugeot don't worry brother don't worry just give me something i stretch out and if i'm going to be if i'm going to be your designated driver full-time for 48 hours i need some leg room and so do you is all i'm saying absolutely yeah i'm and i my favorite part about italy is that it is uh like in la or i guess in america the pedestrians have the right of way typically yeah they're just saying in italy no one knows has the right of way you're saying the car in in italy i carolyn and i were talking about it on the on the road as we were re-navigating the way the systems work and she was so she was like so the far left lane there's no speed limit there is that how it works and i was like you would think so but the speed limit is dictated by whoever decides to drive the fastest and that's the person i was going 164 kilometers per hour and there was a guy in a mercedes wagon behind me you know act he he was acting as if i had his mom at gunpoint like he was he was slamming the roof of his car he was doing he was doing gang symbols at me he was he was treating me like i was you know in a in a giant you know volkswagen bus from the 60s going 10 miles an hour in the fast lane i mean i was i was whipping i don't know what 164 is in miles per hour let me check I don't either.

4:53Jason Stewart:I don't either. But you're saying this Italian man was frustrated as Italians tend to be. He was ready to kill me. I thought, yeah, I was going 102 miles an hour. And he was acting, he was like, move out of the way, you slow bastard. That's pretty cool. That's pretty cool. I like a self-governing highway. It's kind of up to the people. And also there's no, in America, you zoom around. A car's going slow. You whip around them. And here you honk gang sirens, flash the brights, and you expect them to move out of your way. I got to be honest. I got to be honest. I prefer that. I think if you're going slowly and I alert you to that, you get out of my way.

5:33I think that's a fair approach. You would like that because it's a power move. It is. I don't love power moves. Don't say that, Jason. Don't put that on me, okay? Don't put that on me.

5:44Jason Stewart:I love some power moves as well. obviously I'm a sub in some situations and then sometimes I'm a dom on the road. You're a verse sub. Yeah I'm gonna I'm gonna see if I'm gonna honk the horn for you to move out of my way just to see if you'll do it and then I go you fucking bitch. That's true. I prefer a horn honestly to the light. The light flash feels passive aggressive. The horn is more direct and also it's there for that reason whereas lights are meant to illuminate your journey at night and when you're misusing them in a passive-aggressive way, that frustrates me where the horn only has one purpose and that's get out of my way.

6:22And I think that's the easiest way to communicate, I would say.

6:26Jason Stewart:You said it in a more poetic way than I thought. I'm thinking, it sounded like a Coldplay, lights will guide you. The lights are there to illuminate your journey home, brother. I wish I could. I wish I had even a single bone as poetic as Chris Martin's in my uh dying body but you fucking don't you fucking don't i died i really don't um oh well actually we should before i forget we should make an announcement for um the levitation festival coming up uh september 26 27 28 um on the on the 26th the thursday in austin dj python dj them jeans in the club at night on thursday i'm looking forward to it let's go every time i watch a video of python performing live and you know uh fucking croatian jungle or you know fucking he's in tokyo on tuesday dj python is headlining what once again in a chinese city i can't pronounce so i i he's doing he's doing well he's in the zhanghui province playing sublime drum and bass remixes so i'm like this motherfucker is so booked and busy and he's playing the most just nonsensical wild shit ever and it's a room full of cute japanese people who are just like hell yeah this is so sick so i'm gonna i'm looking forward to building my crates up um but then on friday we'll be interviewing we'll be doing a live podcast in the festival friday with a band called the armed and then the uh saturday with unknown mortal orchestra friend of the show so uh a couple people chatting it up so if you're in yeah it's gonna be sick if you're in austin you want to get breakfast tacos let jason know um i'll be at the equinox sweet green sun life strip over there that's kind of where i feel near the so house that's where i feel most at home that's my kind of keep austin weird area that i really that's where me that's where me and link later go to get a coffee you know if mcconaughey's in town we'll all go together but it just it just depends on shooting schedules.

8:28Jason Stewart:Yeah, and whereas if you are working on a new moonshine or a brisket recipe at the house and you want me to come over, that's a me thing. If you're in East Austin working on a brisket recipe, Jason can take the rental car over there, no problem. If you want to take an e-mountain bike ride to a new burnt end shack. You know those fat tire bikes are so popular in Austin. You know there's like hot college co-eds fucking going from the gym to class on the fat tire bike after having some burnt tips. All terrain, brother. Burnt tips. What a city. What a fucking city. Can't wait to be back. Yeah. Can't wait to be back.

9:08Jason Stewart:I'm excited. I'm looking forward to planting myself on some real Texan soil. Yeah. Let's see here. What else we got? Yeah. We were really quick and then we'll talk about our regular lives. but I just I made a note when we were talking about um Mariah Carey going on Kai Senat and then I saw just the next day Jonas Brothers are on there and there's like an AI image of all four guys of them hanging out together and someone tweeted working with Kai Senat must be like jury duty for celebrities and I feel like that sums up our sentiment perfectly what we were saying yeah it does except jury duty that gives you the illusion of being mandatory whereas it's technically yeah you know when's the last time chris and jason went to jury duty never done it bill clinton wasn't never done it in my life don't don't don't come for me now i pay my taxes but i ain't doing all that now i ain't doing all that i got stuff to do uh i watched i watched the vmas on sunday um and was struck by the performance lineup that the only guitar how did my cat's eye girls go that's something else bro i don't know i don't even know what to say about it it's like it's fine i guess but the um there were the lack of guitars the only guitars were young blood and uh aerosmith tribute to ozzy like every single thing was some garbage like we're playing to a track i don't know man the looks were bad it was it was something else but you know they they started selling tickets to it a while back oh really so the state so it's packed because it's It's in a stadium in New Jersey.

10:47So it's an arena in New Jersey. Excuse me. So it's packed because they just sell tickets. And like, you know, cat's eye super fans are happy to pay 100 bucks to be in the building.

10:57Jason Stewart:Yeah, all the Aerosmith super fans are in North Jersey can file in. They have a stronghold on North Jersey. But yeah, it was an interesting. It was interesting. I had a big weekend. I went to the W Hotel opening party, which was pretty fun, actually. and then uh and then there was a proud of fragrance party that was the most tiktokers i've ever seen in my life in one place but dj'd by pink panther s and justice and i but i of course couldn't make it late enough for justice so i i apologize to all of our french listeners i can't give a proper review that's too bad well i mean can i get the pink panther s review song of the summer i also i also didn't make that uh i only i only was able to catch venus x opening okay so i apologize i apologize i buried the lead on that i'm sorry i didn't catch any of the sort of uh kind of you know yeah big light talent i'm sure i'm sure x did her thing though right uh she played um that anthony and the johnsons that i love so much oh i don't know who did you know i'm talking about as a child who is is that hercules and the love affair it's it yes yes that's that's that song really fucking frankie knuckles remix a legendary song i don't know love that song i've definitely played it too many times to where i can't hear it anymore like so many other songs in the world but it really goes off and i don't think anybody knows it in that situation like these people don't know what day it is they don't know how to spell their own name but they're really hot and they they don't know what that song is the beauty of a of a well-produced song it's able to transcend age and time and just good drums mixed and tuned correctly with the bass line that works well it's like a it's like a good book shakespeare almost you know what i mean yeah that's what that's what i would say that's exactly what i'd say all right we have a guest today pamela hanson is a legendary photographer.

12:54She's got a new book, The 90s, from Rizzoli that comes out literally today, I think. She's doing the book signing at Dashwood tonight, which I'm going to go to before this. My favorite kind of book, Ain't Got No Words in It. Ain't Got No Words in It, but she's been working on this for a while, and it's really something. Since the 90s. Yeah, literally. It really captures a moment in time in a way that is extremely glamorous, which is something we're lacking greatly in our modern time.

13:26Jason Stewart:And Pamela, she's still shooting all the time. Yeah, she works all the time. It's not a throwback. It ain't a retrospective. She's also an avid water skier, which I'd like to get into. But there's plenty. That's right. Huge water skier. Okay, hold on. Let me take a note of that. Oh, let me write this down. And she lives in New York City? Yeah, well, and in the Hamptons, I think, is where the water skiing goes down, quote, out east, unquote. They go down in the Hamptons, is what you're saying? As it pertains to the sport and activity of water skiing. Okay. Exactly. I can't wait to see how she feels about hydrofoiling.

14:08Jason Stewart:You know, I don't know if she ever - Fake shit. Fake shit. Does PH let go of the leash and just kind of freestyle? Does she just do a little 360s on the wake? Is she doing pop shove-its? I feel like she's also pretty good at driving the boat, which is, you know, it's like when you're doing those big waves, you got to get towed out there by a pro. It's the same. Right, right, right. A good golfer is likely a good caddy as well is what you're saying. Oh, you know I'll throw some grass in the air. The way I hit that three wood. Oh, shit. All right. Let's give Pamela a call. Okay.

14:53Jason, sometimes I hear you blaming, you know, feeling tired or bloated on the classic getting older or the even more classic being busy or that late night burrito, which I know is easy to do in your home borough of Los Angeles.

15:08Jason Stewart:A lot of late night stuff. But I think it's time to get a clearer answer on what the real culprit is. And our sponsor, Tiny Health, can help you with that. Yeah, Chris, I've got a big body and a tiny health and it all goes into the gut. You know what I mean? It's a mystery little factory where all the good and bad stuff in our body is happening and being controlled. We don't really know much about it until now. You've heard of listening to your gut, but what if your gut has been trying to tell you that, Chris, something is off. Your microbiome is affecting everything from your energy, your immune system, your skin, your teeth, your nails, your odor.

15:45Jason Stewart:how long you're going to live, et cetera, et cetera. If you've got some bloating, a little low energy, immune system's down, you're getting sick, you're getting a little sniffle all the time, you're just not really ever feeling dialed in, Tiny Health is here to dial you in. Start improving your health with real data from Tiny Health. Tiny Health is offering How Long Gone Listeners their most aggressive offer yet, $50 off your first at-home test kit at tinyhealth.com slash how long. That is tinyhealth.com slash how long for$50 off tinyhealth.com slash how long. I need more energy, Jason. I need more of everything.

16:25And I'm kind of sick of feeling sluggish. I'm sick of feeling old. And anything I can do to help myself feel better, I'm going to do. And if I can get that in a powder from David Beckham, I'm damn well going to do that.

16:36Jason Stewart:A lot of the powder companies out there, we're adding them to our drinks. And as the years go by, they just kind of keep getting better and better. and we learn what works and what doesn't work on a scientific level. And they're over here at the University of Oxford doing some studies with accelerated aging longevity on board the International Space Station. So we're getting to figure out how to get real long through space. But also, you know, we've got all these cell rejuvenation technologies, all of these words that you don't really know that much. Transresveratrol. You can't get that in America.

17:13Jason Stewart:But we've got all different types of seaweed derivatives and funguses and all these things that we've learned are amazing and might taste gross and might be weird in a thingy. But we put it all in one packet, chug it down in the morning, Bob's your uncle. We're ready to rock. And you know it's vegan. Go to im8health.com slash howlong right now or click on the link in the description. Use code howlong for a free welcome kit, five free travel sachets, plus 10 % off your order. that's howlonggoneatim8health.com slash howlong code howlongatim8health.com slash howlong. These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration.

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18:24Jason Stewart:They have a kitchen here that you can just self serve and grab whatever you want. And they have the... I remember you telling me that and it's like funny stuff too right yeah i open you open the refrigerator and there's just like a collection of items and like it'll like it'll be like here's like a watermelon and tomato salad and then there's one thing called the white cube and it's just like a molecular gastronomy like whipped cream cube with rose petals on top and you know there's like the madelines of the day and you know things like nothing i want more for a snack than some cubed whipped cream when i'm fucking looking for sorry Jason's in Italy.

18:58Jason's in... I was going to say, are you at a spa?

19:01Jason Stewart:In some way, I'm at a hotel called Casa Maria Luigia in Modena, Italy. And it's a very... Oh, Modena. You know Modena. What are you doing there? It's just a little vacazione. But Chris and I are going out to a wedding in Sicily this weekend. And then he's too busy to come and enjoy the agroturismo. Wait, isn't that where the best restaurant in the world was in Modena? is that near the Ferrari factory? It is. Oh, wow. I didn't know you were a gearhead, Pam. Kind of. I also know I once went to some restaurant there that was rated best in the world, and they gave us all my biggest memory. I went with Daniel Hum and a whole group of people.

19:43Jason Stewart:Okay. The ice cream was foie gras ice cream. That really stuck with me. I'm like, how? Yo, how did you, motherfucker? How did you? How did you blow up my dessert spot? I was really looking for something good. I like that you said I tried the foie gras ice cream, and instead of saying it was good, you said it really stuck with me. Which really, leave it open-ended. Who knows if it was bad or good. I'm sure this restaurant is the, I would assume that restaurant is the same chef that owns the hotel, right, Jason? Yeah, it's called Osteria Francescana from Massimo Bottura. It's like a very chef's table, molecular gastronomy kind of thing.

20:24Jason Stewart:I mean, the food is kind of amazing. Is his wife American? Am I making that up? Yeah, she is. She is. The American, she bagged her a rich Italian guy. I remember. She said, I like Ferraris, so I guess this is going to work. Exactly. Yeah, my wife says, I want some new shoes. And she says, I want a hotel. But you've stayed here before once, right? Yeah, I stayed here. We came out here a couple years ago for my honeymoon. and I fell in love with it because there's no, it's a grass field, a grass tennis court, a gym, free food, and nothing else. There's no, you just sit around all day. Jason and I spent a lot of time together and a lot of that is in hotels and I've literally never heard him say he likes a hotel.

21:09I've never, this is the only time in the history. And obviously this is nicer than most of the places that we're frequenting, you know, in Minneapolis on a thursday but still true it's big for you it's big for you to make that kind of declarative statement jason it's also kind of amazing that's where you decided to go on vacation every usually when people go to italy on vacation they go to the same you know five spots you're an original i like it i'm

21:32Jason Stewart:a different kind of cat pamela you'll learn that over the next 57 minutes yeah he's a real different kind of guy i mean well i've listened to you a lot so i i i i under i think i understand you more than you think I do. Oh. Well, all right. I guess we're done here. Thanks for joining me. Well, okay, that's good. It is a little one-sided. I obviously know who you are, but I only really know you through your photographical work. As we said in the intro, the book doesn't have a whole lot of words, so I'm looking forward to getting to know your personality on today's conversation. It has some credits in the back of the book if you need to read something.

22:09Jason Stewart:I did see the table of contents and the credits in the back. And the introduction. There's an intro. We should start doing the way everybody wants 10 ,000 steps. I think we should do a minimum word read per day. I think that's a good thing for the world to move in that direction. Set a goal, yeah. I was listening to a podcast this morning when I was trying to fall asleep and they were saying the drop-off in reading is a direct drop-off to the overall IQ of humans across the world. and when when the in the when the internet and the iphone came out that's when the i the first time our iq rate stopped raising really in time and then it started going down so yeah 10 000 words you think if people listen to books it's the same thing as reading a book in terms of brain power i was talking about that this morning with my wife she had the same question and i think we we decided it's better than nothing yeah but yeah i think i think the the like the act of reading it and like the scientific process of it going through your eyes and your brain you know deducing what's going on you don't have the author using innuendo or anything like that you have to use it all yourself you have to create it all yourself which then i'm assuming makes you a better writer but we're waiting to see what happens with chris's book you know because he reads a lot you can't multitask you can't multitask when you're reading that's that's the thing you have to sit down and concentrate if you're listening if you're listening to it in theory you could be doing anything right literally yeah right i just don't i don't think it's but i think jason i think you're right i think better than nothing is the best way to put it because obviously it's better than listening to this podcast or staring at the wall or watching like netflix you could learn a lot listening to how long gone even pamela knows that i do i do i know that very well she's i'm a fan we don't necessarily learn things that we want to learn or will be helpful but i am learning things to know yeah you never know what you need to know until you hear it right that's true very social you know you're out and about so maybe you know there's always conversations my my my archivist was talking about how she went to see you guys live one night this was like a year ago when i think first when you first told me you were doing i don't know how long you guys have been doing the podcast and i was like wait you know those guys whoa she was like oh my boyfriend's a huge fan he's like a super fan yeah that's how we got him she's like while i while i sit in your studio and organize photos there's nothing better than how long gone kind of on the yeah we're there for you playing on the high five that's when i discovered how much of a super fan a super stars you guys were and that was probably the most chic way of someone telling us they just go i heard about it from my archivist no i had started listening to it i heard about it from chris it was validated okay yeah she heard about it from the horse she heard it from the horse's mouth okay but how long how long has the archivist been working for like since the book process 10 years longer over longer she knows every single picture of every single person like i could say oh this picture of chris on the banana republic thing i should be like oh yeah and then she just goes in the computer and brings it up there i'll be like even like some obscure friend oh yeah i remember that picture okay so we're saying we're saying like you can go deep into the it doesn't need to be a famous person she's got the the rolodex of every person in your life that you've taken a picture of pretty much that's how does she organize things like do you even do you even like look at it or is it like that's that's not your department no i do she well everything's on is on you know it's been scanned you know and people are like oh i need this or you know there's requests for pictures and sure or someone will call in and be like do you have any pictures of people jumping off a diving board that you know for sale and then she'll just do a deep dive you're like funnily enough we do we have plenty of those just let me know what you're thinking price wise and we can kind of figure how much longer how much longer until AI replaces your archivist?

26:14I don't know, actually. I don't see how that could actually happen. I don't know if that'll be in my lifetime. I don't know. The AI thing is interesting. Let's see what happens.

26:23Jason Stewart:What if your archivist is listening right now and she's like, I don't want her to know that I am using AI to do my job already. That I don't care about. That I don't care. As long as it gets done, you don't give a shit. Exactly. As long as it gets done and she's there. I've always liked people who are like, here's the money, get it done. I don't care how it happens. I don't care what you got to do, get the job done. That seems like, for someone who's been taking pictures for as long as you have, that seems like such a task. And the organization, you're right, if you don't do it, you're going to lose out on money.

26:53Because you're right, people are calling all the time for stuff. And if you don't know how to get it quickly, they'll get it from somebody else. Yeah, yeah. No, it's, yeah, she's amazing. I mean, she's incredible that she, I'll be like, oh, it's so-and-so's birthday. Is there a picture back from 1983 of, we were in Mexico? I don't know. do you know what they look like and she'll be like oh this one that's that's so fun that's such a cool game to play with your own work you know even though you need it i know but it's just like it feels but she's a painter too so she works for me three days a week and the other days she paints which i really love too that she's not like what am i doing just sitting in an office looking at this person's work yeah i was always supporting her work i was always told that photographers would prefer to have an assistant or someone in this position that doesn't want to be a photographer.

27:42It makes it like, it's a different thing. There's like career assistants who are so good at that job. That is true, actually. That don't have the ambition. But that as a career assistant would be really hard because if you're on set, but they end up being lighting technicians, I think. Really good lighting technicians. But somewhere that has to be unsatisfying. Oh, for sure. Do you become an assistant without wanting to become a photographer? I mean, on set, this is different because she's in the office. Yeah, yeah. It's very different. But no, I think there's some, though, like the pay is pretty good.

28:13It's pretty exciting if you're with the right person. Right. If you're doing the right stuff, it's fun for a while.

Read the full transcript

28:18Jason Stewart:Depending on the craft services, it's not a bad gig. I think they've gone down in quality over the years, but I could be wrong. You're not making demands for specific menu items? Half the time, I mean, I don't even think about it. You like food? I mean, sometimes it's okay because it's gotten organic and all that. But in the old days in Paris, we used to stop and go sit down at a restaurant and have, like, wine. That's actually insane. We killed two hours. Can you imagine that? Minimum. A day? Yeah, no, that's a very good example of how time has changed. Yes, exactly. You were getting into your lighting bag, Jason?

28:56Jason Stewart:Yeah, whenever you hear people say, you know, photography, it's all just lighting. I hit the shutter and that's it, but 99 % of it is the lighting. And people will argue how much that's bullshit or not. Where do you land on it? I think the light's really important, but I think you have to see the light as a photographer. I think if you're not aware of the light, I don't see how... Sorry, animals have to go outside. I don't see how you can have a point of view. Sure. But I do think that people don't maybe know as much about light now with the digital. And I think they just are like, oh, I'll fix it in post.

29:35And I think that's maybe where it starts getting in trouble. I don't know. What do you think, Chris? You're a creative director. I agree with that. Don't slander me on my own podcast. No, that was a compliment. What I have learned is that, and you know this, and I've seen you do it, so I know it to be true but it's more about how you can relate to the subject than it is any technical thing like there's always somebody you can pay to load the film right figure out the light and do that and do that but you're not going to get it like i just meet people sometimes and i'm like you have zero personality how do you do this job like you have to have you have to be at least curious or interested i think to be successful well you would think yeah you think unless you're shooting

30:21Jason Stewart:landscapes or something but you know when you're when you're shooting humans yeah with the humans or if you're shooting models that are it's becomes very sculptural and it's like really high fashion but even then like i mean avidon was really had an amazing connection with the people he photographed i just think that's the i think that really is what i've at least from my experience that's what the job is and i think all the technical stuff um people just like to be nerds like there's some people that like love gear whether they're a musician right or a photographer or whatever right and then there's other people that are like i don't give a shit about that like i just i want to do my thing and i'll use whatever tools i have i mean i think what my experience is that i mean obviously for years i did it myself i mean i had one assistant and i was like just bring these lights in and but sometimes if i give too much power to an assistant who has a specific point of view for lighting that's not mine is where you get into trouble.

31:21Do you see what I mean? They're like, yeah, I have this great idea, and we're going to put a light here and a light that out. I was like, nah, just use one light and just bounce it. We want some continuous.

31:30Jason Stewart:We're good. To all the aspiring photographers out there who are assistants, you're getting paid not for your ideas, you're getting paid for Pamela's ideas, not your own. Exactly. I had a thought. Or you can bring good ideas. I'm open to listening. Yeah, of course. No, I mean, obviously. Sometimes they have really good ideas. And then I can steal them. Those skateboarders have really good ideas all the time. I agree. You never know. You never know. Then you keep them on payroll so then they can't take your job. You know what I mean? That's the oldest trick in the book. There's a lockdown there.

32:09Did you assist it, though, before you got started or no? I did. I assisted Arthur Algort, but just when he was, I was really his driver. I met him. I didn't know this.

32:19Jason Stewart:I didn't know that. You mean literal, not metaphorical driver of his work? You mean he drove the car? No, I lived in Paris, and I met him while I was living in Colorado, and I started looking at fashion magazines. I didn't really think about fashion. I was working for a fashion photographer there because I had to have a job, and I had met a fashion photographer in New York. I was working at a gallery in Boston. and we came for the sales. And I was like, what's a fashion photographer? And he was like, oh, you become an assistant. I was like, wow, okay, I could do that and make money. Because I was going back to live with my boyfriend that my parents disapproved of.

32:53So they cut me off and they had been helping me. So I was like, okay. Wow, Pam, I didn't take you as a bad girl like that. So I was like, okay, who's the local fashion photographer? And I called him up and he was like, I don't really need an assistant in Denver. and I ended up working for him for under minimum wage for a year and I printed all his stuff he did all these newspaper ads for the local department store and then I my boyfriend was also a photographer so then I started doing makeup for him which I was really bad at but then I had looked at Arthur's pictures and Lisa who did the introduction to my book was modeling at the time and she knew him and I was so I called him I was like I'm coming through New New York.

33:39And he took me out for lunch, which is amazing. He didn't know me from a hole in the ground. And he looked at my book. He was like, get rid of this. This is good. This is bad. This is good. And he was like, you probably won't be a very good assistant. But if you move to Paris, you speak French. I think he liked that he thought that I came from like a good family because he always liked that. So I moved to Paris. And when he came, I had a car. So I drove him around and I spoke French. And I helped him. That is that is quite helpful. I have to say, I mean, if you don't speak French and you don't drive, then you're offering a pretty good deal.

34:12Jason Stewart:That's more than most Coloradians possess, I would say. Yeah, for sure. No offense to the fine state. But you grew up in Switzerland? Yeah, I grew up in Switzerland. So you learned French there? Yeah, yeah, yeah. I grew up speaking French. I went to grade school in French. Okay, so you... But his assistants would... So that's how I started like three... I worked for him like four or five times. and I started going on shoots and helping him, you know, because he had other assistants, but that was my assisting. This is like prime time for him or is this like a little before? This is prime time. 80s, early 80s actually, because then I went on my own kind of 84.

34:52So you only did it for a couple years. I really just did it like three or four times because it was just like he would come to Paris to shoot the Couture or to shoot for Vogue, you know, that was the only time and the rest of the time I was just scrambling around trying to, taking little tiny pictures that went in the front of the magazine.

35:10Jason Stewart:Oh yeah. The little square ones. Showing up at the magazines every day like, I happen to be in the neighborhood. Do you have anything for me to do? Actually physically going to the office and being like, y 'all need pictures? Yes, because this was free. You could do that. And they were like, yeah, can you go photograph this woman's garden like an hour and a half out of Paris? I feel like driving Is really the reason you have a career I feel like this is really I never realized how important It opens doors It really does, no pun intended It seems like it opened a lot of doors for you It did And when I went on vacation I just went to my parents in Geneva And I drove And then somebody canceled a job Early January for Marie Claire And the guy called me and he's like I've got a real story for you it was a beauty story so i drove back to paris how far is geneva from paris six hours oh i thought i i didn't realize it was drivable like that i guess i never thought about it five when pam's driving though yeah she's yeah lead foot lead foot pam at the wheel you got to be careful you uh you you you mentioned lisa your friend who wrote the introduction lisa love right my wife my wife is a is a big fan of hers and of yours as well but whenever we're at a party and lisa shows up with the with the shades on yeah it's just like oh royalty has entered the room but the photo of she's a cool customer cool customer but the photo of you and where it's you and her when you're like five years old in the photo booth yeah it's like the cutest pic i've ever seen in my life it's so it's so sweet i love it thanks that's and you that's you making the goofy face i'm assuming of course and then lisa has the perfect model-esque smile even exactly It was obvious even at that age.

37:01Jason Stewart:You're like, so who's taking the photo and who's getting photographed? Got it. Okay. That's really funny. I've never been to Geneva and I really want to go. And I have a friend who goes all the time for watch stuff and she loves it. And I just feel like I haven't had a reason. But is the natural beauty enough to pull me to the motherland? It's ridiculously beautiful. I mean everything I didn't like about Geneva Growing up there that was kind of boring and Bourgeois I love about it now even though I don't Go back that much anymore since my parents Died but it's like oh there's Nothing really to do okay that's Nice I had honestly never thought about Geneva until you I you posted you I think We discussed we talked about it already you posted All these photos of your mom who's like Yeah your mom was like a Very chic woman and the house Was so beautiful it just it really made it look appealing like it really it's really and it's really beautiful there we went back in january because we sold the house and stayed at a hotel and it was weird staying in a hotel after you've spent your entire life in the same house because that house did you grow they were they still the house you grew up in yeah that is weird yeah that is weird but it was still so beautiful i mean switzerland's incredible it looks like i say it looks to like a screensaver in the summer especially I think the way that like Aspen sort of can where it's just like this looks insane how lush something is.

38:26It's ridiculous. And the cows are really clean and the water is really blue. And the flowers are really red. The hills are alive. They've got clean cows. They are alive. They've got clean cows. That's a good that's a big selling point for me. You smell that? Personally. Exactly.

38:40Jason Stewart:Nothing. This is a clean cow country we got here. Oh, that's really funny. I think also in the intro, there's a quote from Lisa talking, I think talking about your photography saying she made everything look as it should, which was, was something that really kind of reached out to me. And that's like, kind of like the, the hidden talent or the secret, you know, sixth sense of a real photographer is how you're able to kind of capture that word. Just looks as it should can mean anything, but you know it when you see it, you know what I mean? Yeah, I think it was, you know, when I first moved to Paris and I lived with her, all of my friends were models and all of that's who we hung out with.

39:26That's who we hung out with. So that's who I photographed and they were putting their makeup on and they were, you know, at first I didn't really do fashion because I wasn't, didn't really understand or care about it as much. yeah so i was really interested in the girl so it ended up being more beauty and a lot of lingerie and i mean the first commercial i did which was i think 1984 the art director was english and he's like just i'm doing a bra commercial you're perfect for it and i was like i don't know how to do a commercial and he was like it's really easy i'll get you a dp and i was like all right cool so we the first commercial i did the girl this is so french it was a 30 second commercial for 25 seconds she was walking around topless and it was like the camera was following her in the apartment and she was having coffee and she was fixing the flowers and then the end she puts the

40:15Jason Stewart:bra on this was on this was for television broadcast obviously the breasts are out of frame unfortunately no they're in frame oh they're in no you can no yeah this is france it's from the waist up she has this little underwear on she's walking this beautiful apartment and saying i have my coffee and talking about this, you know, lingerie. Jason's scandalized by this. He's a little bit of a prude. I mean, I don't know. In my mind, in my mind, you know, if I'm going to put on my Don Draper hat, you know, it's, it's from nipple up. We never see the bare breasts. And then at the end she puts the bra on.

40:50Jason Stewart:So then we realized she was topless the whole time, a little bit hotter. That's all I'm saying. That's why, that's why we can tell that you're from Southern california and not france but i agree with you okay i agree with you from an advertising perspective but i think when you have that i've seen breasts before okay i'm a grown man come on like i just want to be clear i not on tv in real life that sounds like a great commercial i'll check it out on youtube it does it's just really funny that that so i think what she meant was that it was just they were very honest images because it was just recording which other people had done in different ways, but it was just an intimacy with the models that maybe and I guess from a woman to a woman maybe.

41:31That's what I was going to mention. The female gaze of it all I think is very important. I think that's something that I really love Angela Hill's pictures and it's the same. It's a similar. It's a reverse Terry Richardson.

41:43Jason Stewart:It's a very safe space. It's like a girlhood and a sisterhood thing that a man just can't capture, I don't think. I think that was the beginning of it too because the other obviously there was like Sarah Moon and Deborah Tuberville and Annie Leibovitz who were doing incredible pictures but it was a different it was more mannered I think maybe I was doing images that were more honest and more intimate in a way that felt very real and I think maybe that's why it stood out more I don't know yeah for sure I mean an Annie Leibovitz image even then feels like there's 50 people there making it happen which is why they're great but it doesn't feel super off the cuff or natural, let's say.

42:28And you still have your home too, so you're doing pretty good. I could resist.

42:37Jason Stewart:You were talking about assisting back in the day, driving, processing, developing, and things like that. Were you retouching yourself, your own photos, yourself, or did you have somebody else doing it? We didn't retouch. I had a darkroom in my bathroom in Paris, so I just put like a wooden board over the bathtub. And also the labs were so good. I mean, the quality of the negatives, it's just not the same. Okay, so you never really had to retouch? No, nothing is retouched. I mean, when we scanned, we had to scan everything to put in the book. One model, I'm not going to say who it was, requested some light retouching in areas, but nobody else.

43:18Jason Stewart:Naomi Campbell, Naomi Campbell. obviously you can't say anything but that'll be my guess that's actually that's actually so cool to be that aware of your image and what's going on that you're like no no no we're not we're not gonna even though i'm one or in a few photos in a book of a thousand i'm gonna make sure even though i was at the peak of my beauty at the time and i literally i respect it on every level but that's i mean when you're when you're putting together a book like this that spans so many years do you have to get in touch with everyone like the publications the models everyone or is it no like you don't i wanted to get releases from the models out of respect for them okay and you know so 90 of them i mean there's some that honestly i was like a one shoot i don't know where they are i don't know how to reach them we tried to reach everybody but no and everybody was super it was actually an amazing process i just out of respect for them yeah because you never know you know no that's a nice thing too i i was gonna say i'm sure there are some people that slip through the cracks you know that aren't you know let's say online in 2025 exactly exactly yeah that's nice to get there because i feel like people just don't do anything they don't have to do and when it comes to stuff like because the process is so i mean this took you a year i mean this is well the last year was when i mean it took me like i was working on it probably two or three years just going through my archives and i was like oh maybe i should do a book oh i love this picture oh i love that picture so that was kind of i started by editing my archives i have so much stuff in storage and i was like do i need the lingerie negatives from 1983 don't know who the client was don't know who the girl was don't like the pictures why am i paying for those sure um and after that so then i just started editing and so it was really a year once i worked with joseph we selected the images then that my team had to scan everything and get the releases and that was that took a minute yeah once you yeah one i mean the more people get involved the longer things take yeah in situations like but i'm glad i'm glad we did that because i think it's been really nice for the girls too and the response was really sweet and everybody seemed really happy and yeah and even if you're a you know a top supermodel from the 90s we are living in the instagram age and we all need content so you know boy is that true naomi's like great now i need something to put up on the grid on tuesday for the algorithm you use instagram you use instagram like a normal person i would say i try to use it just because i guess it's useful i mean i'm not against i'm not well chris what do you mean by using it as a normal person versus somebody using it as their like professional portfolio.

46:04Jason Stewart:I guess I just mean it feels like it comes from you. It doesn't feel like it's coming. Right. It does come from me. Obviously, you're going to post work, but you're also going to post videos of dogs. It's not some insane overthought thing. No. Everyone's like, do you do your own Instagram? I was like, of course I do. It's fun. Do you look at Instagram a lot? And I want to control it. Do you look at it a lot? I try not to, but I do kind of if I'm in a cab and I'm going up to, you know, stuff like that. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. It is kind of a mind fuck, but it's also really interesting. And I feel like you kind of have to today.

46:41That's exactly right. You do. I don't know. I mean, we know some people who don't use it, but they're in a position where they look at it as a professional tool only. And there's somebody who could do that for them, which I totally get. I'm not in that position. I have to use it to make money and talk about myself. and if I were in a different position I would love to not but it doesn't I don't think it affects my like mental the way it does some people like it doesn't I'm not jealous of someone's vacation or whatever yeah no me either I don't care about that at all you go on a lot of vacations if anything I'm like that looks like a cool place you're like oh I may want to go there

47:19Jason Stewart:Chris do you ever get jealous of maybe somebody's physique in the gym selfie though? all day long no absolutely I don't like you could post a picture of your food at this restaurant I keep scrolling I'll give you a like obviously but I'll keep scrolling thank you but but with a if I follow one of my gym guys and he's if I was showing off my teardrop quads or my v-shaped abdomen area then you might feel some the same way that our wives might feel about somebody off the coast of Ischia like oh that's how big of a boat you got fucking bitch yeah no 100 but it is it is changed it's it's changed how we perceive our looks for sure i think overall you're comparing yourself to someone all the time yeah i'm happy for you it's changed so much um i think it's changed a lot of how we see things yeah for sure oh yeah but i think having a healthy relationship with it is becoming more of a trend i don't is maybe the wrong word but i think it's people are thinking about it more and not in a extreme like binary like i either use this all the time or i have to throw my phone out the window I think people are starting to be like, I can use this for an appropriate amount of time and get what I need from it.

48:29Unless you're 16 or 12. Are you around kids like that? No, I'm not. But I was just thinking when you were saying that, I said, yeah, everyone I know is saying that. Even like kids in their 30s or, you know, like your guys' age, I guess.

48:44Jason Stewart:In the same way that some people have, I'm able to have a couple glasses of wine at dinner. Right. And 12-year-olds might not be able to make that responsible decision the same way with Instagram. And I think they're more obsessed in comparing themselves anyway. Oh, yeah. It's a whole other conversation. I think about it the most when it relates to like when we would leave school, it was over for the day. I know. You know what I'm saying? Like when I got home at 3 o 'clock, then it's up to Chris to hang out, to make himself busy, to hang out with people that he actually likes. And now it's like you're just – whatever is wrong is something you can't escape.

49:17That's what's the most terrifying. to me well you used to be able to be bored yeah that's why yeah true someone was saying last night well i read the news on instagram i was like you can't have that as your news source it's just

49:30Jason Stewart:wrong you're like let me stop you right well what i only follow al jazeera and cnn and the wall street journal you know it is possible to get news from instagram but you shouldn't have that as your only source i would say yeah you have to be careful you have to be mindful of what you're watching and hearing i guess you have to be an expert at knowing what is real and what is fake luckily chris and i are i mean thank you so much you can't go backwards and i'm not nostalgic at all but it is true like looking at all those images when i was researching the book there's just a kind of ease and intimate i was the only one taking pictures there were like i was talking to a friend of mine who's a model and i was like what goes on backstage now with the shows because it used to be there was three you know there was a photographer from vogue there was a photographer from bazaar and one news you know you had to have special passes and she goes now it's just influencers and there's thousands of people with phones that changes the whole nature of the image you know nobody wants a great you know candid shot of a model changing they want i also have to be in the photo now so you and i are gonna sit right you know me and turlington are gonna have the selfie together because if i'm not in the photo then it's not worth it I know you're in hair and makeup right now, but if you could just look at me, that'd be great.

50:46But even when you're shooting them in hair and makeup, they're like, wait, where's this going? What's happening? Who's this for?

50:51Jason Stewart:What are you going to use this for? Because they don't know who you are. Exactly. It's tough. It's tough out there. Okay, well, going back to the 90s, this is more of a Chris question, though, I thought of when I was thrumming through the pages. Of all the 90s girls in this book, Chris, who was the one for you? that's tough that is actually tough um i would say honestly christy turlington and her prime is pretty as as good as it gets as far as that was my that was my suggestion as well i i think you're not alone i hate to break it to you guys but yeah all right guys calm down that's not it's like two guys saying pizza is our favorite food right i like ice cream that's what i was say I think it's partly because she I've seen her around in the last whatever decade and she looks amazing and she's like I just think there's something to be said about about in today's world like aging appropriately and how like powerful it is basically that like you look amazing but you also look your age and I think that is some that is something that is it's so rare now that I think it really stands out.

52:03And just the way she leads her life and the choices she's made and that, you know, I mean, in that 90s documentary or whatever, you know, that whatever it was, I forget who did it was at HBO or whatever. Yeah, she says early on. She goes, Yeah, when they told me that I was too big for the fashion show, I was like, that's it. Now I'm gonna go back to school. You know, she went back to school when she was still super busy. She decided to renegotiate Calvin Klein contract. He was all like 20 years old. I was like, I still wouldn't have the wherewithal to do that. I'd still be like, okay. No, it's great.

52:40You guys are paying me. I'm happy. Yeah. I mean, I think that also models, you know, especially during that, you know, it's like if you're 13 at a mall in Iowa and, you know, you get moved to New York, I think that it's going to be tough to make clear headed decisions, even if you're 18, 19 at that point. Really hard. but she had a general and she is ridiculously beautiful. Yeah, of course. I mean, even now, because I know her and she's a friend, like we'll be having dinner and I'll be like, I don't know, your neck is so incredible. Your neck? Your neck is so long. You're like, I just can't turn it off.

53:17Your neck, I mean, this is unbelievable. That's beautiful. You've got the neck of a teen. You realize that it's anyway, there's something about it. No, I mean, those people of that caliber are literally built different. Like, it's a different thing. And you don't lose some of that just because you get older. Like, that still exists. No, I said to my friend, Bronagh, I was like, wow, Christy's next. She goes, I know. It's always been amazing. And I was like, I never, I was so, like, in it with all the models emotionally that I was rarely like, oh, let me look at her as a. Yeah, like an actual. Yes.

53:52I also think a lot of those, the candid photos of all of those girls in that era, like they look cool now. Like models now are wearing like, you know, Balenciaga and look insane. Whereas like Christy Tillington's wearing a pair of jeans and a t-shirt. Kate Moss is wearing like gazelles. Right. It's like a very, it's oddly very on trend right now. You know what they looked like? They sort of made that cool and it ages so much better than a lot of things. yeah you know models had longer lives they started you know now i don't i mean i don't shoot that many models anymore but i think it's like oh no you can't she won't do a double shoot you know she won't do a shoot with another model i'm like but nobody knows her you know in those days you could get christy and naomi they would work together you know you could get and create pictures and they would get experience and it was just a very different slow down did you slow down at any point like when you had kids you slow down a little bit or did you just work all the way through when i had kids i worked all the way through then i think in the early when digital started i kind of had an identity crisis i was like what am i pictures supposed to look like now hang on and i feel like then when i started going through my archive it was like oh no this is what you want to do this is what you like to do this is what you're good at like don't see that and that i think is the problem with seeing so much and everything's watered down like i see oh they're doing they're redoing the avidon west shoot for some like how can you copy that oh yeah i mean that's every year every year they read i'm sorry every year they redo that you don't actually think you can do that yeah i don't know if people think they can actually do it i just think there's a a level of like we ain't got no ideas left like i just don't know especially i mean i think a lot of these younger a lot of younger photographers like never had to assist they're so they you you can make a real living very fast without doing any work really you know like as far as far as like understanding sort of how things work and how you can't just go do avidon but also understanding what you see and how you see things i mean that's what's going to make the difference totally you know you may show you may be like hey i want to do a shoot inspired by the avidon american west shoots as you know like a white background out in the field but then you know a photographer should be like yeah but i need you know you should bring your own point of view into it yeah of course maybe you don't have different lighting or maybe you have a different so you can work together on concepts but i have i just feel like so much of it is just being outright copied and that maybe photographers don't know what they really see or what they really like because it becomes they don't maybe they don't have time to develop that they weren't doing the little pictures in the front of the magazine of the woman's garden in paris no they no they really weren't i mean i think that i think there's some of that i also think that just it's a different there's you have access to too much yeah we talk about this a lot on how long

56:54Jason Stewart:gone but like you're right the blessing and the curse of the barrier of entry being lowered i had I wanted to go buy a book or a magazine if I wanted to see what was in it. You know what I mean? And that's like how you develop what you like. If you can see everything all the time all together, I think that can sort of work against you. I completely agree. Work against you. When everyone can do everything on a phone, I can make an album, film a movie, do a photo shoot on my phone. 99 % of it is going to be horse shit. And then 1 % of it is going to be a genius, you know, new idea being created.

57:29It's really true. I also wanted to talk to you about water skiing. Because I told Jason in the intro. I love to water ski. I was like, Pam is an avid water skier.

57:40Jason Stewart:Yeah, I want to talk about smoking cigarettes. He wants to talk about water skiing, the duality of this show. Oh, my God. I miss cigarettes so much. How long ago did you stop? I've gone off and on since I was 16. I feel like I've... But I officially stopped a year ago. No, I've smoked with you. I officially stopped a year ago I finally was like I just can't do this anymore Okay so not even Like a cheeky occasional Look good for you I mean I love smoking And it's so fun and it's social But you're not like a nicotine gum You're like I'm good Did that phase that didn't work What was your brand of cigarette My original brand of cigarette You guys probably don't even know what it is Were Larks they had like charcoal filters i saw a picture my agent at the time i used to smoke larch and then it became you know american spirits what color yellow there we go love a yellow spirit what about you guys i went from uh parliament to a to a yellow spirit as well parliaments like lark oh yeah yeah but are you back on parliaments though aren't you uh i mean a little bit a little bit of parliament uh yeah or the hestia as well shout out to hestia yeah there's like a guy we know what's that it's basically like the only existing independent cigarette brand that's like the cleanest basically it's i mean it's kind of like what american spirit was when it first came out like pure organic no big tobacco um which is oh that's good it was fascinating to me just because starting a cigarette, I don't even know how to wrap my head around that.

59:24Insurmountable task. Yeah, insurmountable task. Although social smoking is up, so maybe it was a good idea. You hang out with a lot of young people, so you're seeing what's going on. They smoke. They smoke. Well, the people you hang out with definitely smoke. I'll get a cardinal to the house, Pamela. You'll love it. I didn't mean to divert us from the water scheme. No, no, no, that's okay. Back to the beautiful art of water skiing. But is this something you did as a kid? No, I was a big downhiller because obviously growing up in Switzerland, that's what we did year round. And then one summer, I think I learned how to water ski in Crete on a family vacation when I was 16 because I had a big crush on the water ski instructor.

1:00:05Classic. These water sports guys always win. They always win. And then I went in the south of France after I had kids one summer before we came to the Hamptons. And I was like, ah, I should water ski in the air. I forgot how much fun this is. One thing led to another, and then I bought a little boat. So you have the boat, you have the skis, and who is your go-to driver? Like, who do you trust the most behind the boat wheel? I trust Doug Lloyd. Do you know who Doug Lloyd is? I don't think I know. He's a creative director. But anyway, I ski with him and another friend of mine. I have two friends that I trust to drive me.

1:00:40But I've seen people we know, and when I see them skiing, are you driving? yes okay yeah so so you're also i love i love taking people water skiing it's fun like jeff and sarah i've seen jeff and sarah who's better jeff or sarah jeff water skis sarah wakeboards i mean jeff is a really good he grew up in minnesota he was jumping on the wakeboard that's true he comes from a skateboarding background as well that's true i i'm very interested in in skiing in both water and snow you have to come out come out come out and visit It will take you water skiing. I don't know how much time you have for me to learn.

1:01:19I got time. The season is short. I got time. I would love to watch you bust your ass for two hours until you finally figure out how to do it.

1:01:27Jason Stewart:How bad does it hurt when you really eat shit on that glassy water? I have bruise. That's why I wear a wetsuit, a short wetsuit, because I have bruise. Otherwise, I don't take as many risks as I used to. But it's so much fun. I mean, it's just talk about clearing your head. You just can't think of anything else. Right. Just hold on. And every time it's like, am I going to be able to get up again? Am I going to remember? And then when you're out there like early in the morning and no one's there, I mean, it's incredible. And it's fun being on the boat. That's why I like taking people. That's like why I take Sarah and Jeff and the kids.

1:02:01It's just really fun to be out there.

1:02:05Jason Stewart:We got to get a boat, Chris. I recommend it. what is your also i i've run into you several times having like a long lunch and i feel like that's something that you're passionate about and i feel like jason could also be passionate about that but maybe hasn't gotten to that point in his life do you have any tips on sort of what are the what are the keys to long lunching is it is it just a conversation lust for life okay just conversation and being in a place where you're comfortable and they don't rush you to get out okay so that's why i always go to bar pd they don't rush you out like home yeah well tuesday at one o 'clock it's a little more mellow over there than it is you know friday night at 8 p.m true but that's not a lunch that's a dinner that is when you're when you're a long lunch at bar pd are we outside or inside depending on the day i like the corner table inside i mean i don't i it depends what i'm doing whether or not i'm long lunching obviously no i'm not saying that you're every day for three hours.

1:03:06I'm just saying I feel like that's something I also like it, but I get anxious if I'm there too long because I'm often with someone who really has nothing to do. And so I'm like, I don't want to be the guy on my phone, but I'm like, I have to earn money for my family. So it's a tough duel. Well, you're young and you're prime. You're right. You do need to work. If this is my prime, I'm concerned, but I'm hopefully inching.

1:03:33Jason Stewart:I think maybe, you know, like you were saying, you know, conversation being the key point, you know, as I've gotten older and as Chris and I have interviewed all these amazing people over the last few years on the show, the amount of conversations that I enjoy, it's pretty low. Like, I feel like, you know, my brain, my nerve endings in my brain have been burned off and you have to be, it has to be like Salman Rushdie or some level of conversation to get me fucking going. Don't beat around the bush. When you're with the best three times a week, it's going to be hard. It's true. You guys do a really good job, though.

1:04:11Well, thank you. Thank you. Jason, I actually feel the opposite because I think that now I know I'm more able to take it in a direction that is interesting for me. Listen. And hopefully that works for the other person. I am so interested in people that I love listening to podcasts. I'm like, I could do that. I want to interview people. People always say to me, like, you should have been an interviewer. So I was shooting, get this, Woody Allen, a portrait of Woody Allen for Marfa Magazine. When was this? This was like two months ago. And I was like, should I do it? Is it wrong? Have you met him before?

1:04:52No. I mean, I saw him once, get this. My gym in Paris was at the plaza, at the Ritz, I mean, because they had this great, and I was in the gym one day with Jane Fonda and Woody Allen. You know, funnily enough, this is so strange. I've been in a gym with Jane Fonda as well because she lived in Atlanta. Right. And at the gym I went to, she would come with her little dog at like, I would show up hungover at like 1 p.m. and that was Jane's workout time. Isn't that hysterical? So you've seen Woody, obviously. If you live in New York, you see Woody, but you've never interacted with him. No, and the girl from the magazine was interviewing him.

1:05:29She's from, that's based in London. Yeah. And I was just biting my tongue because I was like, I wanted to keep going, well, what about, what about this? What about that? She was doing the classic interview on set, which can be problematic for everybody involved, depending on the. I mean, I knew what I was getting into, so it was fine. And I was very curious. How long did you have with Woody? Like an hour. I didn't really need a lot of time. It was in his library at his house. He was very easy. she said what do you think about jeff bezos getting married in venice and stealing that's where you got married and he was like i don't know the guy has money he wants to have a big wedding let him have a big wedding and i was like and then yeah he's like i don't give a fuck how do you get inspired like what's your inspiration he goes well i you know i work in bed and i say oh well there's a guy and he's going to get a divorce oh and then he hires an investigator oh and then this happened it was just so kind of woody he's like i've made he's like i've he's like i've made the same movie 30 times i think i i just kind of do my thing i don't know i've mastered it yeah i've literally mastered i'm woody god damn it my genre yeah i'm inspired by it comes to me my shit my own shit that's right but you're you shoot a lot for town and country now too right i have shot it depends on the stories i don't shoot a lot but i shoot for them a little bit depending on what we're doing what is your what is your appetite as far as work goes now do you feel like you are you at a point where you only just do stuff that's interesting to you yeah that's fun or that you know financially beneficial sure of course there's that everyone's got a price everyone's got a price you know i've been shooting for netflix a lot which i actually really like i really like the people at netflix it pays well and you shoot really interesting people and they're really cool so i went to tell you ride for them shout out to our

1:07:20Jason Stewart:our netflix family you did you set up like a little studio type thing no i didn't i shot them like outside on you know i wanted to look like telluride because i was like well you're hiring me you don't need me to do a studio that's not what yeah yeah it's funny a lot of people ask that well because that's usually what they do at those right right like vanity fair will have one or new york magazine will have one you know that's usually what the but then it kind of looks the same i wanted to kind of do them out it was cool that was fun i enjoyed it so is it's it's all kinds of obviously netflix has plenty of things at telluride so it's all kinds of people or was it focused on one project no it was a couple of projects but i was interested in meeting the i got to shoot the directors like richard link letter and noah baumbach who i know but and then the guy that did conclave big noah named edward berga oh yeah yeah i made a joke about richard link later in the fucking intro that's a funny oh you did how funny just a classic austin keep Austin weird joke.

1:08:17You know, you got to think of Linklater when you get into that.

1:08:20Jason Stewart:Actually, I was thinking, sorry to interrupt you, Chris. My wife is a wardrobe stylist, and she's talked about how, you know, we were talking about influencers behind the scenes and taking photos and people's relationships with their own image is a lot different now than it was before. Right. And she said it's quite common nowadays to see mirrors set up on set so the model can see themselves while they're being shot? Is this something that you've noticed as well? Well, I think there was always mirrors. I mean, the top girls would put the outfit on and look at themselves to see. I mean, that was part of what made them so great, to see how it moved and to understand the clothes.

1:09:04So we didn't do it so they could see themselves. Well, you could do that if you were shooting in a studio, which I didn't shoot a lot in the studio. But yeah, that makes sense. so they can kind of see what they're doing and get an idea.

1:09:18Jason Stewart:Yeah. Have you seen that at all, Chris? I didn't know that was a thing that happened. Like directly, like they're looking at themselves in the mirror while they're being shot. I've never seen that. I'm sure there are some divas out there that demand that and they probably are the people that don't deserve it, is my guess. You know, is my guess on the vibe. It seems a little... Distracting. I would initially have a negative opinion of it, But now, you know, I don't like when I'm getting my photo taken, I don't know how the fuck I look. And they're like telling me to move to my left. Is it your left?

1:09:50Jason Stewart:I don't want to know. I don't want to know how I look, though. That's the thing. You're not a model. Your job, if you're a model or you're modeling something, then you're supposed to understand. Thank you for reminding me. Thank you for reminding me that Jason and I are both not models. I'm just good to remember. Not that you couldn't be. I'm not saying you couldn't be. Thank you. Thank you for that concession. I can do some hand modeling. I just don't think that anybody I don't know it's more fun not to If I was doing that job I think it'd be more If I you know trust the person I'm working with I'm like let's rock do your thing Seems like it would be too much control And too much distraction Well it's also I mean it's fucked us up like I'm on zoom all fucking day looking at myself I don't want to see that Like I don't you know I would prefer I mean you know I'd prefer not to see myself All day it's just not normal Is she your wife talking about models or actors A little bit of buff or a little bit of both yeah right it feels very actory to me especially like maybe i'm new to this but i'm hot so i can make some right you know sort of demands you know to make myself feel more comfortable sure wheel it over it does sound more actory very very actors what are we going to do i can't leave can't live with them can't live without them so the the dashwood thing is i'll see you tonight yes great yes it's tonight and then what what else are you doing for the are you doing some other stuff?

1:11:07Is there an after party? Friday, I'm getting a Lifetime Achievement Award from Daily Front Row, which is apparently kind of cheesy, but fun. That's really fun. At the Rainbow Room. That makes it extra fun. Christy's introducing me and giving me the award, which is really sweet. And then on the 18th, I have a show opening. It's Daily Wise. So come on the 18th. I'm going to be out of town. And then I'm doing London and Paris. I figured you were going to do Where are you going? I'm actually going to this wedding and then I'm going to Lanzerhof. Oh, I love Lanzerhof. But there's a new one in Germany.

1:11:46So that's where I am going. The original one was in Germany and then the other one was, are you going to where the sand dunes are?

1:11:54Jason Stewart:It's called Silt. Oh yeah, that looks amazing. Dying to go there. So you've been, Pamela. Yeah, I've been there and I've been... You've huffed. I've huffed. It's incredible. How snatched did you feel when you left? And then I went to Viva Mare, which during the pandemic, which is in Austria. Well, I think of Austria as the place for these sort of like, I don't even know what you call them. How did you end up going to Lanzerville? Because I've been trying to go for like five years and they finally - He has body dysmorphia, so it's only a matter of time. They said, you know what? Fine, fine. You've dealt with enough, Chris.

1:12:31Are you going by yourself or are you going with your wife? Yeah, I'm going by myself for nine days or eight days, I think. But I had a pre-call with the doctor. Yeah. And the doctor was like, what do you want? I was like, I'll literally do anything. Like, I don't care. I'm like, I'll do. Like, you want to do cell replacement? I'm like, sure. My cells must be fucked. Let's do it.

1:12:52Jason Stewart:So you're like, we're going to test out new procedures on me. I'm your guinea pig. I'm your pin cushion. Do whatever you want. I just feel like they're dealing with a lot of people that come in there with a lot of. Specific goals. very specific needs and goals. And I'm a little bit more like I'm here to have the experience and then write about the experience. So I need to have. Oh, is that what you're writing about it? Is that what you're going? Yeah, I'm writing. Yeah, I'm writing about it. Yeah. Oh, that's good. I don't know any man who's been, I have one friend, my friend, Jeremy has been, I don't know any other man that has been.

1:13:22Who are you writing about it for? GQ. That's so great. It's supposed to be beautiful. We went during the pandemic and there was no foreigners because no foreigners were allowed to travel into Austria. We got special permission. So there was a lot of local people there who were just going because, you know, like there was this cute young guy who was like a professional swimmer or something who was just going to kind of. But the Austrians are definitely not fun. We'd be like, fine. We were hiking.

1:13:52Jason Stewart:The Austrians aren't known for fun. How do I say it? They're not fun people. Yeah. Do you have any tips for Chris? I mean, Helmut Lang and Helmut Lang and Portola is Austrian and they're amazing. He makes a good pair of jeans. Do you have any tips for me? No, just have fun and take lots of movies. We watch lots of all the... I had screeners, I think. So we watched tons of movies. I'm fucked. I need to work and I've been told that part of the process after a couple days is your brain is operating in a way that it normally doesn't. Like you're so clear that you're really able to like focus is what I've been told.

1:14:30I don't remember. It sounds like when you do like a, like a cleanse. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. You took what lessons? Cooking. They had a cooking class for like organic. Yeah. They, they offer that. I'm like, I don't want to do any of that. I was doing that because I was like, do I get an extra snack? If I make the broth, do I get anything else?

1:14:50Jason Stewart:You might be able to be able to smuggle some, smuggle some raisins in a pocket or something like that for later. Is that an olive I found under the refrigerator? Okay, so they do restrict your diet there, Pamela? Is that true? I think you can make, you know, you can choose. I went because I'd had COVID and I was like using it as like COVID recovery, even though I wasn't that sick. Even though I'm fine, I just, you know. I thought maybe I do have some long-term effects. Sure. But you can go for weight loss. You could just tell them what you want to do. I mean, there's people there that were seriously sick.

1:15:22You could tell there were people that were recovering from chemo. There was people that had some serious disorders. I just want to be clear to you and our audience. I'm not getting a facelift. I'm not going to recuperate from anything. This is straight up.

1:15:38Jason Stewart:You don't have a terminal illness that you've created in your own mind either, except for the dysmorphia. Except for the dysmorphia. But I think that's a, yeah, I guess when I talked to the doctor, she also wanted to make it very clear to me that it was like, you can go like smoke a cigarette. You can go like into, you can do whatever you want. This isn't rehab. You know what I mean? This isn't a halfway house. We're not going to cattle prod you if you leave. Yeah, this one, this one English woman was telling me that, or that one of the doctors was telling me this woman, you're not supposed to have coffee.

1:16:10But they would go into town every day to have like coffee and a glass of wine. But that's me. I'm definitely having coffee. Which I didn't want to do, because I'm like, I just want to have this experience and see how I can, you know. I'm all the way here.

1:16:22Jason Stewart:Might as well do it the right way. And I went with my husband, with Jamie, so that was fun, because I don't know if I wanted to be there alone. And it snowed. It was so beautiful. It was really beautiful. Yeah, I was like, what's the weather like? And they're like, well, it's a microclimate, so bring a jacket and shorts. And I was like, you guys, just fuck off. Give me an answer to the fucking question. I'm so jealous that you're doing that, though. Wow. It looks beautiful, that place. It really does look nice. Look, there'll be a full report. Okay, good. Can you give us an honest report and then do your GQ article on the side?

1:16:54That's right. Thank you, Pam, for joining us.

1:16:56Jason Stewart:That'll be a long lunch at Petey. He'll give you the whole rundown. I can finally have some spinach with salt on it at Bar Petey. Oh, my God. I'll be flying. All right. The 90s is out now. The book is out now. Yes. And I'll see you tonight at Dashwood. And thank you for the time. Thanks. Thank you guys. Pleasure. Thank you. It was our honor. Pleasure. Thank you. Thank you.

From the publisher

Pamela Hanson is a photographer currently living in New York. Her newest book, "The 90s," is out now on Rizzoli. We chat with her about Italian driving conduct, Chris went to a Prada party, TJ's hotel vibe, Pamela's archivist, lighting philosophies, showing up at the magazine's offices, and asking them if they need any pics, French advertising practices, the influencers shouldn't be backstage, social media jealousy, where she "long lunches," Christy Turlington's neck, her love affair with water skiing, one time she worked out at a hotel with a couple of celebs, and Chris' upcoming trip to Lanserhof.

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